SERVICE MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 15218400 OCTOBER, 2003

CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS ................................................................. WIND THE BOBBIN .............................................................................................. PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD .......................................................................... STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS ............. 1 2 3 4 5-7

WHAT TO DO WHEN ............................................................................................ SERVICEACCESS FACECOVER ...................................................................................... FRONT COVER .................................................................................... REAR COVER ...................................................................................... MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION ..................................................................................... BOBBIN TENSION ............................................................................... PRESSER BAR HEIGHT ALIGNMENT ................................................ NEEDLE SWING .................................................................................. NEEDLE DROP .................................................................................... CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l) ...................... CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2) ...................... FEED DOG HEIGHT ............................................................................ NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ........................................................................ NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE .......................................................... DISTORTED PATTERN ....................................................................... BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE ......................................................... BARTACK FEED OF BUTTONHOLE ................................................... BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION .................................................................. DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER .......................................... PLATE ...................................... MOTOR BELT TENSION ..................................................................... TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER WIRING OILING

8 9 10

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

.............................................................................................................. ..............................................................................................................

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ..............................................................................

Vl.0

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS

Bobbin Winder Thread guide Spool Pins Bobbin Winding Spindle Thread Guide Thread Take-up Lever. J Bobbin Winding Stopper

Top thread tension Control _. Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Control Face Plate _rDial

Thread Cutter__ Needle Threader

Extension

Table (Accessory storage box)

Presser Foot Holder_

Needle Clamp Needle Carrying Handle \ \ \ \

J \ Presser Foot j

Handwheel \

Buttonhole

Lever

Free Arm

Power Switch

Machine _ocket

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

WIND THE BOBBIN

1. 2. 3. PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT. DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS (A). PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH BOBBIN AS SHOWN. PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE (B) WITH END OF THREAD COMING FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN. PUSH BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE TO THE RIGHT UNTIL IT CLICKS. 4. 5. 6. HOLDING THE END OF THREAD, START MACHINE. WHEN BOBBIN IS SLIGHTLY FILLED, SNIP OFF THE END OF THREAD. WIND THREAD UNTIL BOBBIN STOPS. REMOVE BOBBIN. PUSH THE HANDWHEEL TO THE LEFT.

A, \ \ \ \ \

' Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread feeds clockwise and is coming from bobbin as shown. 2 Pull thread through slot of case as shown. 3

Pull thread under tension spring and through the opening as shown above.

J J

Holding latch open, position case into shuttle and release latch.

Case should lock into place when latch is released.

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD

THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS. DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT. RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER. PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE. HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND, DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER. FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH LEFT. DRAW THE THREAD DOWN AND SLIP IT INTO THE LOWER THREAD GUIDE. DRAW THREAD DOWN AGAIN AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE. TREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK. NOTE: YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR EASIER NEEDLE THREADING. THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/ STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS

s SETTING MARK /

PATTERN _'_ iI BH t 3/4 5 6

_ 7 8

" 9 10 '_

BH 1

910

s
STRETCH 8 V L 10_1_2_3--4 _=_

S_TCH

LENGTH

4
/

SETTING MARK

I I I

I
STRETCH S V L10_1_2_314 _=_

TO SELECT STRETCH STITCHES, SET THIS CONTROLATVPOSITION.

_0--1--2--3--4--5_

_0

1 2345_

Setting Mark

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE

1. SKIPPING STITCHES

1. NEEDLE

IS NOT INSERTED

INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY.

PROPERLY. 2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN. 3. INCORRECTLY THREADED ARE CHANGE THE NEEDLE,

RETHREAD. USE THE RECOMMENDED SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD.

4. NEEDLE OR THREAD INAPPROPRIATE FABRIC 5. SEWING FABRIC 6. INAPPROPRIATE BAR HEIGHT FOR

BEING SEWN. ON STRETCH USE A#11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE,

NEEDLE

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT".

P.20

7. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE TO HOOK TIMING

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TIMING "NEEDLE

P.21

TO SHUTTLE".

8. INAPPROPRIATE

NEEDLE

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT"CLEARANCE BETWEEN HOOK". NEEDLE AND

P.17,18

TO HOOK CLEARANCE

2. FABRIC NOT MOVING

1. INCORRECT

F.D. HEIGHT

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT HEIGHT". "FEED DOG

P.19

2. THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP.

MAKE SURE TO BRING BOTH NEEDLE THREAD AND BOBBIN

UNDER THE FOOT SEWING.

WHEN STARTING 3. FEED DOG TEETH ARE WORN, CHANGE

THE FEED DOG.

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

CONDITION &BREAKING UPPER THREAD

CAUSE
1. INITIAL SEWING TOO FAST. 2. THREAD PATH IS SPEED IS

HOW TO FIX START WITH MEDIUM SPEED.

REFERENCE

USE THE PROPER PATH.

THREAD

INCORRECT. 3. NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL, TENSION

REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE. IS ADJUST TENSION UPPER THREAD CORRECTLY, NEEDLE

4. UPPER THREAD TOO STRONG. 5. NEEDLE SIZE IS INAPPROPRIATE FABRIC. 6. NEEDLE 7. NEEDLE

P.12

USE APPROPRIATE FOR AND THREAD IN USE.

FOR FABRIC

EYE IS WORN, HOLE IN NEEDLE

CHANGE

THE NEEDLE.

REPAIR THE HOLE OR REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE.

PLATE IS WORN OR BURRED,

4. BREAKING BOBBIN THREAD

1.

INCORRECTLY BOBBIN CASE,

THREADED

THREAD

BOBBIN

CASE

CORRECTLY. ADJUST THE POSITION OF

2. TOO MUCH THREADIS

AROUND ON THEBOBBIN.
3. LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE BOBBIN HOLDER,

STOPPER, CLEAN THE HOOK RACE.

4. THREAD QUALITYIS

CHANGETO A HIGH QUALITY SEWING THREAD.

CLEAR OUTTHEJAMMING THREAD, ADJUST BOBBIN THREAD TENSION CORRECTLY,

TOO LOW.
5. THREADISJAMMING AROUNDTHEBOBBIN. 6. BOBBINTHREADTENSIONIS

P.13

TOO STRONG. 5. NEEDLE BREAKS 1. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE NEEDLE PLATE. 2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN. 3. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE HOOK RACE.

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLEDROP." CHANGETHENEEDLE. SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE

P.16

P.17, 18

BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK".

4.

THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING IT, OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS WHILE IN FABRIC.

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE SWING".

P.15

5.

FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO STRONGLY WHILE SEWING.

GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY WHILE SEWING.

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

CONDITION 6. NOISY 1. OPERATION

CAUSE BACKLASH SHUTTLE BETWEEN HOOK GEAR AND

HOW TO FIX SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE

REFERENCE P.18

LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO GREAT.

BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOt_ (NO.2)". ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS

2. LOWER SHAFT GEARIS LOOSE.

&INAPPROPRIATE TENSION. BELT

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT"MOTOR TENSION". BELT

P.26

4. UPPERSHAFTGEARISLOOSE. ELIMINATETHELOOSENESS. 5. NOT ENOUGH OIL.

7. DEFORMATION PATTERN

OIL ALL MOVING PARTS,

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE SWING".

1. INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG SYNCHRONIZATION.

P.15

2. INAPPROPRIATE DISENGAGEMENT FOLLOWER. OFCAM

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT "DISENGAGEMENT FOLLOWER". OFCAM

P.25

3. UPPERTHREADTENSlON IS TOO STRONG.

4. INAPPROPRIATE BALANCE. FEED

ADJUST TENSION

UPPER THREAD CORRECTLY,

P.12

SEE MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT"DISTORTED PATTERN".

P.22

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER
s

\ (B)

1. 2. 3.

OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVE THE SCREWS (B). TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

SERVICE ACCESS
FRONT COVER

G
E

CAP \ \ COVER FRONT

/ J

TO REMOVE 1. LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS (A), (B),AND (C), AND THEN, REMOVE THE FRONT COVER BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS (D) ,(E),(F),(G),(H),(I)AND NOTE: UNHOOK FRONT COVER. TO ATTACH 2. FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVERSE. (J). REMOVING THE THE TAB (L) FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

SERVICE ACCESS
REAR COVER
A

TO REMOVE 1. 2. 3. REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 8, 9) LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS (F). PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS. REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET. REMOVE THE REAR COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER. TO ATTACH 4. FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVRSE. (A), (B) AND (C), AND REMOVE SETSCREWS (D), (E) AND

lO

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION TO CHECK: THE STANDARD UPPER THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 65 - 95g WHEN PULLING THE

THREAD (COTTON THREAD #50) IN THE DIRECTION OF (B) WITH SETTING THE TENSION DIAL AT "3". (MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED.) IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE:

REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT. (SEE PAGE 9.) TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN THE UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT. TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (E) WHEN THE UPPER THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.

3.

ATTACH THE FRONT COVER UNIT.

C \ \

11

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
BOBBIN TENSION TO CHECK:

ADJUSTMENT

SET THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD (COTTON #50) THROUGH THE TENSION SPRING. THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 - 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE DIRECTION OF (B). IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE: SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN THE BOBBIN OF (E) WHEN THE BOBBIN

TURN THE ADJUSTING TURN THE ADJUSTING

THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT. THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.

(B)

COTTON THREAD #50

12

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK: 1. 2. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (A). THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (E) SHOULD BE 6.0MM (0.24"). ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE:

REMOVE THE SCREW (B) AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER. ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (E) TO 6.0MM (0.24").

3. 4.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (C) SECURELY. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B) TO SECURE THE LAMP SOCKET. NOTE: WHENYOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B), MAKE SURETHAT BOTH SIDES OFTHE (F) ON THE

PRESSER FOOT ARE PARALLEL NEEDLE PLATE.

TO THE FEED DOG SLOTS

.... ""-.

(A)

ri

S,_,

(F)

i(O)

6.OMM

13

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING ACCORDING

ADJUSTMENT

TO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE,

IF THE

NEEDLE BAR STARTS MOVING SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC AT SEWING THE ZIGZAG PATTERN (WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH). ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. 3. PROCEDURE:

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, AND REMOVE THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.) LOOSEN TWO SET SCREWS. ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL, WHILE HOLDING THE WORM SO AS NOT TO ROTATE IT, UNTIL THE NEEDLE SWING STARTS AT 2 - 3MM ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AFTER THE NEEDLE HAS COME OUT OF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE HOLE.

4. 5.

TIGHTEN TWO SET SCREWS. MOUNT THE FRONT COVER. NOTE: AFTER ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE SWING, CHECK THAT THE UPPER SHAFT WORM AND GEAR ROTATE SMOOTHLY WITHOUT ANY BACKLASH BETWEEN THEM.

GEAR

UPPER SHAFT WORM

SETSCREW _PCS.)

2-3 MM

14

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE DROP TO CHECK: WHEN THE NEEDLE SWINGSIN BOTH ENDS OF NEEDLE HOLE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS SHOULD BE EQUAL. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. OPEN THE FACE PLATE. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH. LOOSEN THE SET SCREW. TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN TO ADJUST THE NEEDLE DROP. TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW. NOTE: CHECK THE HOOK TIMING AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT. AS FOLLOWS: MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE

SET SCREW

ECCENTRIC

PIN

BOTH CLEARANCE

SHOULD BE EQUAL

15

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l) TO CHECK: THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 -+0.10MM. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. 3. PROCEDURE:
i

AS FOLLOWS:

OPEN THE FACE COVER. SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL " C i 3 ", WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT" 0" LOOSEN SET SCREW (A), AND MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO ARROWS TO GET CLEARANCE BETWEEN -0.05 TO +0.10MM. * WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO WIDE, MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO DIRECTION (B). * WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO NARROW, MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO DIRECTION (C). NOTE: AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT, CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN 0.15MM AS SHOWN IN FIGURE (D). IF NOT, ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE BY USING METHOD OF ADJUSTMENT NO.2 IN PAGE 13 AFTER READJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE MORE THAN 0.15MM.

SETSCREW_

DIRECTION

NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER

-0.05-+0.

IOMM

CLEARANCE

BETWEEN

NEEDLE AND

NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN O.15MM

16

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2)

TO CHECK: USE THIS ADJUSTMENT NO.2 WHEN ADJUSTMENT NO.1 CAN NOT BE USED. THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 - +0.10mm. ADJUSTMENT 1. PROCEDURE:

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT "C i _ ", WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT

2. 3. 4.

REMOVE THE REAR COVER. (SEE PAGE 10.) LOOSEN THE SCREW (A) ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR ABOUT 0.5MM TO THE RIGHT TO MAKE A SLACK BETWEEN GEARS. LOWER THE NEEDLE AND LOOSEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS (B). MOVE THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT AXIALLY EITHER FORWARD OR BACKWARD TO ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE SHUTTLE RACE IN THE RANGE OF -0.05 - +0.10MM.

5.

SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL AT" CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE

", TURN THE BALANCE WHEEL TO

BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND INNER EDGES OF THE BY TURNING THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT.

SHUTTLE RACE SPRING AT THE LEFT AND RIGHT NEEDLE DROPS ARE EQUAL. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT 6. 7.

TIGHTEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS (B). LOOSEN THE SET SCREW ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR BACK TO THE ORIGINAL POSITION WHILE ADJUSTING THE BACKLASH.

8. 9.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (A) FIRMLY. ATTACH THE REAR COVER. NOTE: THE BACKLASH PLAY SHOULD BE LESS THAN 0.3MM AND LOWER SHAFT TURNS SMOOTHLY. AFTER THE ADJUSTMENT, CHECK THE HOOK TIMING.

CLEARANCE

SHOULD BE EQUAL

\ SET SCREW B (2 PCS.) BUSHING (FRONT) SHUTTLE

\ RACE SPRING

17

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
FEED DOG HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING 1. 2. STITCH LENGTH: NEEDLE BAR:

ADJUSTMENT

SET AT 4. AT ITS HIGHEST POSITION.

TO CHECK: 1. 2. 3. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT. PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367 (A) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND AND CHECK THE FEED DOG HEIGHT. REFER TO CHART BELOW. ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. 3. PROCEDURE:

OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. LOOSEN THE SCREW (B) AND TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN (C) IN EITHER DIRECTION TO ADUST THE FEED DOG HEIGHT AS REQUIRED. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B) SECURELY.

GAUG FACE (A) 1.25MM NOT MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING FACE (B) (RED) 1.00MM MOVING NOT MOVING MOVING

EFEED DOG HEIGHT

CORRECT LOW HIGH

(A) #68367 \

(c)

18

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING 1. 2. STITCH SELECTOR: "C i Z)".
i

WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL:

SETAT 5

TO CHECK: 1. 2. 3. 4. OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B) ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION. 5. THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B). ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE:

LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) OF THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER (D). MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR (E) UP OR DOWN BY HAND UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL ENGRAVE ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B). PARALLEL LINES

3.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (C) SECURELY.

(B)#68366

THIS END OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK

DRIVER IS TO TOUCH THE GAUGE (A)#68368

l!

19

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385 15218400

MECHANICAL
NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE MACHINE SETTING
i

ADJUSTMENT

1 2

STITCH SELECTOR: WIDTH SELECTOR

"C I: D CONTROL: SET AT 5

TO CHECK: 1 2 3 4 OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B) ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION. 5 THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B). ADJUSTMENT 1 2. 3 PROCEDURE:

REMOVE THE BELT COVER AND THE FRONT COVER. LOOSEN THE SCREWS (C) AND (D). ROTATE THE SHUTTLE DRIVER UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).

4. 5

TIGHTEN THE SCREWS (C) AND (D) SECURELY. ATTACH THE FRONT COVER, THE BASE PLATE, AND THE BELT COVER.

J.:

i_ I. ..

, =

.-_." .
m

_.-, .1..

<-"
Cd, .

THIS END OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK _)

(B) #68366

(c)

\ THE GAUGE _,_

(O)

2O

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTORTED PATTERN TO CHECK: IF THE STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS ARE DISTORTED WITH SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT" "

(IN CASE OF BEING A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FORWARD FEEDING AND BACKWARD FEEDING DURING STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS), MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE: ciiiD ", AND THE STITCH LENGTH AS FOLLOWS:

REMOVE THE CAP. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL AT" CONTROL AT" ".

3. 4.

TURN THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (C) WHEN A > B, OR IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN A < B. MOUNT THE CAP.

CAP (C) _ (D) \

/ NOTCH

J STRECH

STITCH SCREW

0
A=B

X
A>B

X
A<B

ADJUSTING

21

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE

ADJUSTMENT

TO CHECK: WHEN SEWING BUTTONHOLE, THE STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF BUTTONHOLE SHOULD BE THE SAME STITCH DENSITY. THE RANGE OF 9-12 STITCHES IN THE RIGHT SIDE ROW "BACKWARD FEEDING" AGAINST 10 STITCHES IN THE LEFT SIDE ROW "FORWARD FEEDING" IS CONSIDERED ACCEPTABLE. ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE: AND REMOVE THE CAP.

CONFIRM THE STITCHES BY SEWING BUTTONHOLES,

TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (C) IN CASE OF (A) (RIGHT STITCHES ARE ROUGH), OR IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) IN CASE OF (B) (LEFT STITCHES ARE ROUGH).

3.

MOUNT THE CAP.

CAP

NOTCH

J ADJUSTING

SCREW

\
\\ \ \ \ \
\

FORWARD FEEDING

BACKWARD

FEEDING

22

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
BARTACKFEED TO CHECK: OFBUTTONHOLE

ADJUSTMENT

IF THE MATERIAL IS FEED FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN SEWING BARTACK ON BUTTONHOLE, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS:

ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE: 1. 2. 3. SETTHEPATTERNSELECTORCONTROLAT" CONTROL AT "4". REMOVE THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.) PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER UNDER THE FOOT AND TURN THE HANDWHEEL. IF THE PAPER IS FEED FORWARD, TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (C). IF THE PAPER IS FEED BACKWARD, TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (D). 4. MOUNT THE FRONT COVER. B "AND THE STITCH LENGTH

/,

(c)

ADJUSTING

SCREW

FORWARD

FEEDING

BACKWARD FEEDING '_

23

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
BUTTUNHOLE FUNCTION

ADJUSTMENT

TO CHECK: BOTTONHOLES FOOT. IF THIS LENGTH CANNOT BE OBTAINED, THEN CHECK AND ADJUST AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. PROCEDURE: SHOULD BE ABOUT 3MM LONGER THAN THE LENGTH SET BY THE R

OPEN THE FACE COVER. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (A) IF THE BUTTONHOLE STITCH LENGTH IS LONGER THAN THE STANDARD,OR THE BUTTONHOLE IN THE DIRECTION OF (B) IF STITCH LENGTH IS SHORTER THAN THE STANDARD.

STANDARD
f

ABOUT3MM

': _:

==.,.:_.

ADJUSTING

SCRE_

q:_..&... ,._.._A_
"I "7""....__ "" ".-. , "'. ".::'_.?&'4"-_.

_B_ --._._.. -4: _.j ,

:q

LEVER BUTTONHOLE __

24

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL
DISENGAGEMENT TO CHECK: OF CAM FOLLOWER

ADJUSTMENT

TOO NARROW CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CAM FOLLOWER AND THE TOP CONVEX OF ZIGZAG CAM MAY OFTEN CAUSE DIFFICULTY IN TURNING OF THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL, OR CAN NOT CORRECT PATTERN. ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. PROCEDURE:

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL " i "AND SET THE STITCH WIDTH AT "5". REMOVE THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.) PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER TO THE ZIGZAG CAM (STRAIGHT CAM), AND ALSO PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM TO THE PATTERN SELECT CAM. LOOSEN THE SETSCREW. MOVE ADJUSTING PLATE IN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW UNTIL TO TOUCH TO THE RELEASING ARM AND TIGHTEN SETSCREW. NOTE: AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT, CHECK THAT THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG CAM AND THE CAM FOLLOWER IS 0.3MM WHEN PUTTING THE CAM FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM ONTO POSITION (A) OF PATTERN SELECT CAM.

6.

ATTACH THE FRONT COVER.

ZZ CAM - RELEAS ARM

SETSCREW(A) PATTERN SELECTOR CAM _..

ADJUSTING PLATE

RELEASE ARM

25

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL
MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK: 1.

ADJUSTMENT

IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT CAN CAUSE A BELT NOISE: IF THE TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, IT CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOWLY AND THE MOTOR TO OVERLOAD; IF THE TENSION IS TOO LOOSE; IT CAN CAUSE THE BELT TEETH ON THE MOTOR PULLEY TO JUMP.

2.

THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION IS WHEN THE DEFLECTION OF MOTOR BELT IS ABOUT 7MM (0.28") - 9MM (0.36"). (WHEN PUSHING THE MOTOR BELT BY FINGER WITH A 300 GRAM LOAD.)

ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. 3. 4.

PROCEDURE:

REMOVE THE REAR COVER. (SEE PAGE 10) LOOSEN THE SCREWS (A) AND (B). MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION ABOUT 7MM (0.28") - 9MM (0.36"). TIGHTEN THE SCREWS (A) AND (B).

300g

(B)

26

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER TO REMOVE 1. 2. 3. 4. REMOVE THE FOOT HOLDER. PULL OUT THE THREADER PLATE UNIT (A). PLATE

TO ATTACH PUSH THE THREADER PLATE UNIT (A) UP TO SNAP IT WITH THE PIN (B) AS SHOWN IN FIG.1. ATTACH THE FOOT HOLDER.

TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE THREADER IF THE THREADER

PLATE (C)

PLATE IS SLIGHLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT, LOOSEN THE SETSCREW

(D) AND ADJUST THE POSITION AS SHOWN IN FIG. 2. IF THE ABOVE WAY OF ADJUTMENT SHOWN IN FIG. 3 AS FOLLOWS: 1. OPEN THE FACE PLATE. 2. WHEN THE THREADER PLATE IS: IS NOT APPLICABLE, MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT AS

TOO HIGH, LOOSEN THE HAXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (E) AND LOWER THE POSITIONING POSITIONING PLATE (F). PLATE (F). TOO LOW, LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (E) AND RAISE THE 3. TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW (G).

II
(FIG, 1) II (FIG,3)

C_(_

PIN (B) PLATE UNIT

(A)

HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW

_ADER

SETTING PLA TE_

(F)
(FIG.2)

TNREADER

PLATE (C)

I__;

_I

(x)
\ \
(D) SETSCREW

(X) VIEW

27

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385.15218400

WIRING
1. WIRING FOR MACHINE SOCKET UNIT

S
RIDGE _

/ /

RIDGE

M : MOTOR L : LAMP

_L

2.

WIRING DIAGRAM

FOOTCONTROL

MOTOR ATTACHMENTCAP

LAMP SOCKET

7C_

MOTOR

28

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

OILING
FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING. HOWEVER, WHENEVER THE MACHINE IS BEING SERVICED, CHECK TO SEE IF ANY PARTS NEED TO BE LUBRICATED. OIL USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, B, C, D, E) INDICATED BY BLACK ARROWS. GREASE WHITE GREASE IS RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON GEARS AND CAM SURFACES. IT IS AN IMPROVED GREASE, AND IT CAN BE USED ON THE METAL AND PLASTIC PARTS WHICH POINTS ARE INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS (F,G, & H).

HOW TO ORDER PART_ EM / 40M DESCRIPTION SEWING MACHINE OIL WHITE GREASE

ORDER THROUGH YOUR RPDC IN THE USUAL MANNER; DIVISION 20, SOURCE 158.

_ - -- _.--. % =-

,_+,
"'_

__'-':_"
A"

:j

#--_,-"

""

%_. . -=

\ .......... \

._-_"

"t "., .__l_,,._.__ "

_;_ :_,

"_"1_,_-_/
G

"2Y

_ "_.:_,_ -"_.,,._j.=__" ,_._-

29

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

_REW

DRIVER FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367

_W

DRIVER TEST PIN #68368

ALIEN WRENCH

RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366

3O