Igcsecoastsrevision
Igcsecoastsrevision
Key questions:
1. What are the processes by which water helps to shape the coastal
landscape?
2. How are the main coastal features formed?
3. What are the different kinds of coastal ecosystems? What factors affect their
distribution?
4. What is human intervention is affecting coastal ecosystems?
5. What do the different interest groups want from our coastline?
6. What are the ways of dealing with changing coastlines?
7. What can we measure to find out about coastlines and how do we do it?
Waves are responsible for both erosion and deposition on coasts.
Erosion and erosional landforms of the coasts
Types of Coastal Erosion
Erosion is the process that wears away
material by something else an agent
and the most usual agent on coasts is
water in the form of waves, so not only do
you have the usual water-type erosion
processes but you have another couple
that refer to waves alone. Erosion is also a
process of wearing away prior to removal
( unlike weathering see below).So there
are 6 main types of erosion processes in
action at the coast
1. Abrasion (corrasion) - this is where
breaking waves hurl rock fragments
against the cliffs gradually wearing away
the cliff material.
2. Hydraulic Pressure - this is where
erosion occurs due to the pressures
exerted by breaking waves as air trapped
in cracks in the cliff is compressed by the water. This compression and sudden release
gradually forces the cracks apart.
3. Solution (corrosion) - this is where salt water can act to dissolve some chemicals in
the rocks, for example in limestone, calcium carbonate is dissolved, weakening the rock.
4. Attrition - as rock fragments are swirled around by waves they are gradually broken
down as they hit against each other.
5. Wave scouring - waves breaking at the base of the cliffs swirl around the base and
result in the removal of loose rock.
6. Wave Pounding - breaking down of the cliff face due to the sheer force of the wave
which can exert upwards of 30 tonnes / m2 when crashing on the cliffs.
As well as the action of the sea causing the erosion of the cliffs, weathering processes
and human activity can also be responsible for affecting the wearing away of the rock.
As well as the action of the sea causing the erosion of the cliffs, weathering processes
and human activity can also be responsible for affecting the wearing away of the rock.
Weathering Processes:
With weathering, unlike erosion, it has to do with the breaking off taking place in situ
which is where it tends to stay put.
Freeze-thaw processes (as water freezes and thaws in cracks in cliffs, the expansion
and contraction forces the rock open, making them more susceptible to the action of
waves).
Chemical weathering - water running down the face of cliffs, either from surface runoff
from above or from rainfall can result in solution so that rock cracks are enlarged, leaving
the remaining rock loosened
Biological weathering - burrowing organisms and roots of vegetation forces open
cracks, making them more susceptible to wave erosion)
Try to do this without looking!
Name 6 erosion processes:
Name 3 weathering processes:
What is the difference between erosion and weathering?
large in height
has a steep angle: the is a steeper gradient
between the waves because there is a shorter
gap between the waves and each wave is high
has lots of energy
has a weaker swash than backwash (beach is
scoured and degraded as the strong backwash
pulls sand and shingle back down the beach)
Destructive waves
attack the bottom
of the cliff
Resulting in a wave
cut notch
This results in a
wave cut platform,
which is not
attacked by the
waves.
Waves attack a
vertical line of
weakness
Resulting in the
formation of a
Cave
Waves continue to
attack resulting in
the formation of an
Arch
Coastal Deposition:
1) Transportation of material
Methods of transportation:
Saltation: Large boulders are bounced along the seabed
Suspension: Sand is held in suspension in the water
Solution: Salts are carried in solution in seawater
Longshore drift:
If the waves approach the coast at an angle >90 then any material dislodged by the
water will be carried further up the coast.
This is because the material will go back into the sea at the steepest gradient, which
is at 90 to the shore. This material is then pushed back up onto the shore by the
next wave however it is further down the shoreline than its original position.
Complete the diagram below of Longshore Drift:
Sea
Key:
Particle of sand
Movement of
particle of sand
Beach
small in height
has a gentle angle: there is a shallow gradient between the
waves because there is a long gap between them and each
wave is not very high
has less energy
has a stronger swash than backwash (material is moved up
the beach by the strong swash).
It is constructive because it is building the beach up it is
constructing it
What determines how much energy waves have?
1.
Wind speed
2.
3.
The Fetch of the wave (distance of open sea over which the wind has blown)
2) Formation of Features
Formation of Beaches:
Built up over time by the action of longshore drift.
Most common beach materials are sand shingle and pebbles
Beaches are more likely to be formed in a sheltered area as this is where most
constructive waves are likely to deposit their load in a sheltered area.
Spits:
Long narrow ridge of sand formed out to sea from a point on the coast
Eroded materials are picked up by waves and move via longshore drift to a bend in the
coastline.
The material is deposited and it accumulates out to sea
The further from land it gets the more susceptible it is to attack from winds.
Example: Hurst Castle spit and Spurn Head
Tombolos
Tombolos are ridges of sand and shingle which join the mainland to an island.
They are created through the process of longshore drift.
Where there is a change in the shape of the land, a spit forms in the shallow /
sheltered water.
A tombolo is formed where the spit continues to grow until it reaches an island,
forming a link with the mainland.
Named Example: Chesil Beach (joins the South Dorset Coasts to the Isle of
Portland)
coral reefs.
Coral Reefs
Where are the coral reefs?
Coral reefs are located in three primary
regions located between 20 degrees N
and 20 degrees S of the equator: the IndoPacific, the Western Atlantic, and the Red
Sea.
The Indo-Pacific region stretches from
southeast Asia through Polynesia and
Australia, eastward across the Indian
Ocean to Africa.
This is the largest and richest assemblage of reefs in terms of coral and fish species
present. The Western Atlantic region stretches from Florida to Brazil, including Bermuda,
the Bahamas, the Caribbean, Belize and the Gulf of Mexico. The Red Sea is the smallest
of the three regions, located between Africa and Saudi Arabia. It is considered a separate
region because of the high number of coral reef life found only in this area.
Based upon geographic distribution, 60% of the world's reefs are found in the Indian
Ocean and Red Sea, 25% are located in the Pacific Ocean, and 15% in the Caribbean.
What do coral reefs need?
They require quite specific conditions in order to thrive. None are found in areas
where the water temperature drops much below 18C (64F) for more than a few
days.
Apart from temperature, corals also require clear waters. This is partly because
they need sunlight to support the algae that live within their tissues. They are also
very sensitive to particles of mud or sediment settling on them, which means that
corals rarely grow close to rivers or other sources of sediment. In the sea, light is
filtered out by depth, so reef-building corals can only grow in relatively shallow
water. Even in the clearest oceans few reef-building corals grow below a depth of
80 to 100 m (260 to 328 ft).
Although corals need nutrients, they cannot thrive in areas where there are large
amounts of nutrients. Typically, microscopic organisms in the plankton, or
seaweeds (macroalgae), grow to excess in nutrient-rich water and smother the
corals, blocking out the light.
Waves can often be seen crashing onto coral reefs. Being supported by limestone
skeletons, corals can survive in very tough conditions. However, in the strongest
storms many corals will be smashed to pieces. In the short term this can be
damaging, but many of the broken pieces will continue to grow. New corals will
arrive from other areas, so the reef can recover, often within a few years.
Two other groups of plants are often associated with coral reefs. Mangroves (much more
about that below) are trees and shrubs that grow in the intertidal zone between the land
and the sea, while seagrasses are the only true plants that live completely submerged in
the sea.
Both mangroves and
seagrasses are particularly
abundant and diverse in
tropical waters. Many reef
animals move between
these ecosystems during
their lives. The mangroves
and seagrasses are also
important for filtering and
holding sediments and
thus keeping the water
over the coral reefs clearer.
What are coral reefs?
Colourful and full of life,
coral reefs support a great
diversity of life. They
require shallow seas with suitable conditions: temperature, wave exposure and water
quality. Coral reefs are built from the limestone remains of coral skeletons and coralline
algae - but corals are not restricted to the tropics. They thrive in temperate seas, in the
cold blackness of the deep oceans and even under polar ice. But in the absence of warm
water and symbiotic algae they are unable to grow into reefs.
How are they built?
The basic unit of a coral is the polyp - a small anemone-like animal. The branching,
massive. plate-like or encrusting corals that build reefs are colonies of hundreds or
thousands of polyps held together by soft tissue and the calcareous skeleton they
secrete. Symbiosis is the condition of 2 or more organisms living together for their mutual
benefit. Symbiotic brown algae (zooxanthellae) living within the tissues of corals are
fundamental to reef building.
They live within the tissues of the coral and work together. Coral grows up to 3 times as
fast with their help.
They work together in the following way to convert nutrients:
1. Coral polyps capture food using their stinging tentacles.
2. The digest their prey and create waste.
3. The algae convert the nutrients in the coral's waste products into food.
4. The algae give some of this food to the polyp.
5. Polyps consume this food and create more waste.
6. Repeat!!
The algae give the corals their characteristic greenish colour. A change of environmental
conditions such as higher temperatures or a change in salinity but also disease can cause
the polyps to expel the algae. The coral becomes totally white (= coral bleaching). If the
coral regains some algae it might survive, but bleaching can be irreversible and then the
coral dies.
Why are they important?
Coral reefs act as natural self-repairing breakwaters, protecting adjacent land from
storm-driven waves and reducing coastal erosion.
They are rich fishing grounds for molluscs, crabs, lobsters, fish and other edible
species. Many people depend on reef produce for their everyday needs.
Reefs provide exotic non-food products such as shells for decoration and live fish
and invertebrates for the aquatic trade.
Mangroves
What are mangroves?
Mangroves (generally) are trees and shrubs that grow in saline (brackish) coastal
habitats in the tropics and subtropics. The word is used to refer to the habitat and entire
plant assemblage or mangal .
They are found in intertidal zones along estuaries and marine shorelines. They face
problems of frequent emersions, a saline environment that tress and shrubs generally
cannot survive and a lack of oxygen. Different plants have different ways of dealing with
these problems
How do mangroves survive?
Avoiding the salt: some plants contain a waxy covering to their
roots which prevent it entering. Others deposit the salt in dying
leaves that soon drop off (a bit like putting the rubbish out on the
pavement to be taken away)
Lack of oxygen: their long knobbly roots take in air when they can
through little pores.
Getting nutrient: because salt water is low in oxygen, bacteria
survive well and release phosphates
well.
Mangrove trees grow well in their special conditions and they produce a lot of
leaves and other organic matter. The leaves fall in the water, where they rot and
provide food for microbes and many tiny animals. This rich food is not only eaten in
the mangrove swamp, but much of it may be carried out into the lagoon or to coral
reefs and other coastal fisheries areas, where it helps to feed the fish. The areas
near mangroves are thus often very important for fishing.
They slow the water flow and so encourage any sediments to be deposited, thus
keeping the sea water clear. Often these sediments contain toxins, heavy metal etc
and so they provide a sink for them and prevent them contaminating the sea
water.
They protect the coast from erosion, storm surges (especially during hurricanes),
and tsunamis. Their massive root system is efficient at dissipating wave energy.
Mangroves also build land which can be very important on islands where land is so
limited. Mud and sediment are often washed down rivers and streams. The water
spreads out into the mangroves, and the sediment settles to the bottom where it is
trapped by the mangrove roots. As the bottom gets shallower, the mangroves can
grow further out, while those on the inside eventually find themselves on dry land,
where they are replaced by land plants. In this way the mangrove forest advances
slowly outward, leaving land behind.
Mangroves are an important source of food and materials for many coastal people.
Crabs, clams, oysters, fish and other food are often collected there. Even the
mangrove fruits are sometimes eaten. Mangrove wood is often collected as
firewood, and it can also be used for building. The bark has tannin which has craft
and medicinal uses.
Even in the city, mangroves can be important. The city wastes run off and pollute
the nearby coastal waters. When the wastes from all the people run into a
mangrove swamp, they can be taken up and used by the plants and animals in the
swamp. In a way the swamp filters the water, leaving clean water to go out the
other side. As long as there is not too much waste for the mangroves, and no
poisonous wastes from industries, the mangroves are an excellent waste treatment
system, and much cheaper than a sewage treatment plant.
Case study of a located coral reef or a mangrove stand and its management
1. Location
Exuma land and sea park, Island in the Bahamas
2. Threats to coral reefs in the Bahamas
various types of fishing can destroy the coral reef; dynamite fishing blows up the coral
which destroys the reef, nets from intensive fishing get caught on the reef and damage it,
and anchors from fishing boats also harm the corals.
- rising sea levels in the Bahamas are a threat as corals cant survive with sea levels
above 25m. This rise in sea levels could be due to many factors (including global
warming)
-extreme weather events such as hurricanes can harm the reef due to rising sea levels,
strong waves etc.
-inputs of pollution on the coasts due to an increased population and increased number of
hotels are a threat as saline water is required for survival.
-sand dredging activities are harmful particularly when building a new coastal
development
-Overfishing for conch and lobster means these species are reducing in number
3. Why coral reefs need to be managed in a sustainable way coral reefs are
greatly important for the future of the Bahamas, as these are one of the main attractions
for tourists in the area. Tourism makes up 60% of GDP in the Bahamas
4. Solutions
Exuma land and sea park created in1986 the first national park in the Caribbean
Very expensive.
Gabions:
-
Aligned at right
They aim to do a
Expected life
rust.
Soft Engineering
Beach replenishment
To build up beach via dumping sand, creating a larger area over which energy is
dissipated.
No costly building involved, cheap and long term.
New material (sand) must match the original type.
Strong prevailing winds creating longshore drift that moves material south along
the coastline.
The cliffs are made of a soft boulder clay. It will therefore erode quickly, especially
when saturated.
The village of Mappleton, perches on a cliff top on the Holderness coast, has
approximately 50 properties. Due to the erosion of the cliffs, the village is under threat.
The rock groynes have stopped beach material being moved south from
Mappleton along the coast. However, this has increased erosion south of
Mappleton. Benefits in one area might have a negative effect on another.
The increased threat of sea level rise due to climate change, other places will need to
Coastal Preservation:
The Coasts need to be managed by councils or national authorities
Awareness needs to be increased about coastal erosion
Stricter rules for coastline recreational areas must be drawn up and stuck to
Any areas that have a high risk of erosional damage should be cordoned off.
Coasts are causing many conflicts:
Many people living in coastal towns want to protect the area
Tourists want to have unrestricted access to the coastal areas
Conservationists want the area to be sealed off from the public
National and local government have to decide which part of the coastline to protect
because they do not have enough resources to protect the whole coastline.