JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER

MAY - JUNE 2009 | FREE

SPA Cuisine
at The Bale

Go Greek COMPETITION
at Kebab Palace FEVER AT
The Perfect SALON
PAVLOVA CULINAIRE
The Wine Dinner
Dilemma
 presidents’ message

TASTE TASTE
team contents
To all our members and friends Dear members and Friends,

I am filled with pride at this time for I have so many people to thank for
the skills of our local chefs. All the their tireless work, their wonderful
participants from Indonesia tried so performances and their generous
hard and those that won were very sponsorship during the Salon
editorial consultant 5. President’s Message impressive in their events. Culinaire in Jakarta this April.
Sarah Dougherty
6. Short Order
There are so many people to thank The show attracted more competitors
contributors from the BCP Committee members than ever before and the ACP and
Kathryn, Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina 7. Victoria Comes to Indonesia
and those who helped to mentor BCP committees had a lot to be proud of. The level of competition
Valkenburg, Es Dee, Kayti
the Bali teams, to the sponsors who helped us to realise our attracted much prasie from an incredible line-up of judges, both
9. Salon Culinaire 2009
coordinator & marketing 13 success, the judges who were fair and encouraging and our local and international
Miranti Amandya 13. Brilliant Baguettes many supporters.
Congratulations to all the winners and those that tried so hard and
photographers 16. Greek Kebab Bali once again won the Indonesian selection for the Asian did not get a place, there is always next year in Bali.
Dewandra, Sarah, Mia, DeKa Pastry Cup and will represent Bali in Singapore in 2010 in the
18. A Culture of Service lead up to the World Pastry Cup in 2011. we have great hopes I would also like to say a special thank you to the WACS
graphic designers
that these two talented pastry chefs, who have kept trying and representatives that came to oversee the competition and our
DeKa
23. Design Update performed better each time, will have great success in their wonderful guest judges who came from Singapore, Malaysia,
distribution careers and be great ambassadors for Indonesia. Hong Kong as well as Bali and Jakarta.
Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi 16 24. Raw Nature
For the Junior Chefs who practiced hard and bought home a To the organising committee as well, I would like to express my
office 26. The Wine Dinner gold and a bronze I would like to say how proud we are. This is admiration for the ACP Organising committee who did such a
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn)
a new program for us and to see the enthusiasm and hard work great job and were very busy throughout the event.
Travel Works Communication International 28. Arak with Sex Appeal that has gone into this event is very encouraging.
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, Finally the future of our local industry looks very healthy following
Indonesia 30. The Perfect Pavlova Special thanks to Stefan Mueller and Darren Lauder and Agus our first Asian Junior Chefs Challenge. Although the local teams
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095
Pandetria from Ayana, Oscar Perez and Vincent Stopin from St did not win the top place, Bali received a bronze and we saw
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 32. Spa Cuisine at The Bale Regis, Lotus distribution and all chefs who gave their support some very impressive effort. The Young Chefs Clubs are new to
E-mail: media@balichefs.com 28
and their contribution to make this event a great success. Indonesia and the potential we saw was very encouraging.
Website: www.balichefs.com 38. Chef’s Day Out
Next year it is Bali’s turn to host the Salon Culinaire and I hope I must also say a special congraulations to the team from Four
we can do it as well as our sister organization in Jakarta did. It Seasons Jakarta, my home team, for winning the Gold Trophy for
was a great event. Best Culinary team.

Made Putra, Once again thank you to all who made this event a very special one.
President BCP
Vindex Valentino Tengker,
President ACP

pre press & printing by

PT. Dian Rakyat
Cover photograph of almond jelly with Taste Magazine
grilled pineapple compote, coconut
cream and mango puree This edition of Taste comes on the heels of some fantastic As usual we have been treated to some great lunches and dinners
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at Created by Brandon Huisman for Bliss performances by our local chefs at the Salon Culinaire 2009 in throughout the last two months, up-market, on the streets and
www.balichefs.com Spa at The Bale, Nusa Dua Jakarta. Four Seasons Jakarta took out the highest honours to win everything in between. You can read all about it in this isue.
Photo by Dewandra Djelantik the gold trophy for best team. Bali’s team of pastry chefs came
hold with a gold trophy of their own and our young chefs did us The Wine dinner seems to be the flavour of the year, we look at the
proud, bringing back a gold and a bronze medal for Bali. hows and whys. And lastly we stopped for a few araks, it’s all about
going local these days. Enjoy.

4 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 5

 short orders short orders

Innovative Cream Kath Comes

for Professionals
Developed by New Zealand dairy company Fonterra with leading Australian
to Maya
chef, Glenn Austin, head of WACS Pacific, Anchor Culinary Cream was Maya Ubud Resort and Spa has recently announced the appointment
recently launched in Indonesia. of a new Food and Beverage Director, Kath Townsend. Originally from
Sydney, Australia, Kath spent four years working with celebrity cookbook
Already reduced by 30% the cream cuts cooking time and saves money as author and restaurateur, Bill Granger as Executive Chef, working and
less achieves the same result as regular cream. Practical testing has shown it travelling with him. She also worked at the Sydney Opera House catering
provides the best coat on pasta. events that sometimes involved hundreds and thousands of guests.

Sourced from grass fed cows, the cream has a rich colour and a fresh cream Most recently Kath has served as Executive Chef in the Maldives and
taste. Best of all it is stabilised so it won’t react to heat or acid. As ambassador most recently in Vietnam. She will no doubt be a valuable addition to the
for Fonterra, Glenn Austin claims this product is “revolutionary”. award winning resort in Ubud and to Bali’s Culinary Community.
For enquiries contact: marketing@mayaubud.com

Hatten Opens
The Cellar Door
The latest innovation from Hatten introduces screw top technology to their growing wine company.
A FISH By Any
Hatten Wines is a vigorous local company that are constantly upgrading their product and adding new
ranges. The BCP lunch guests at Sip restaurant were recently introduced to the company’s Pino de Bali, Other Name
an aperitif wine that is available in both red and white.
Sourcing and supplying a wide variety of local seafood
is nothing new for Alam Boga who have established
“The wine is made from Belgia grapes and Alphonse-Lavallee in the case of the white. It is aged in oak
partnerships with high quality handlers of local fish and
barrels for one to two years before being bottled. Pino de Bali is a fortified wine, made using brandy
seafood which is sent daily to chefs in Bali, Lombok and
in the mix and is similar to a muscat. Jakarta.

It is available at the The Cellardoor on the By-Pass close to the Simpang Siur, Bali, Tel: 767422. What is new is the logo, which will now identify all their who know that our seafood is properly processed through the cold chain,
seafood products. Combining the old word for island, at each stage of handling, preserving the integrity of the product,” explains

The Winner Takes It All

Noesa, with a graphic fish, Alam Boga will now have a David Smith.
dedicated facility for packaging the fish and refrigerated
trucks that will bear the new label. Alam Boga believe that the potential in Jakarta is big as the chefs do not
For Vindex Tengker, Executive Chef of Four Seasons have the same access to local fish varieties as Bali does. The Noesa label
Jakarta and President of Jakarta ACP, (Association of “We have been doing this for a long time now and we have will feature on both wholesale and retail products.
Culinary Professional), the Salon Culinaire 2009 was a established trust with both our suppliers and our customers, Jakarta enquiries: 021 743 3003. For Bali 0361 720200.
triumph on many levels.

The event was the largest in Indonesia to date and hosted

a number of prestigious competitions including the
Leony Opens
Bocuse d’Or, among the most esteemed international Leony is a great inspiration for other women who are committed to a
competitions for a single chef. It was also the first time career in the male dominated world of cooking. At the recent opening of
the Asian Junior Chefs Competition was held, inviting Holiday Inn, Tuban, where she is now working as Chef de Cuisine, there
regional teams to compete. was not a wider smile to be seen.

The first Barista Competition was also staged and turned The glamorous, refurbished property is the perfect fit for Leony Rosalia as
out to be a hot favourite with the audience who sat she moves up the ladder in her career. Confident, creative, hard working
cheering their favourites throughout the three day event. and full of enthusiasm, she loves her job and it is clear that both the staff
and the guests love Leony.
However, it was Vindex’s own hotel, Four Seasons, who
took home the trophy for the best team overall in the To sample Leony’s cooking, check out the new Holiday Inn.
competition. Jl. Wana Segara 33. T: 0361 755 577.

6 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 7

 short orders

The Victorians
are serious about What’s
Products included lamb, beef, seafood, a
wide variety of fresh and dried fruit and

Your
cheese, naturally all accompanied by some

INDONESIA
great Australian wine supplied by Lotus.

“By working closely with the key-decision

makers in the Indonesian food service
sector, we are able to gain their confidence
Beef ? Richard Slaney

in our processes and capitalise on new It is now common practice for Australian “We would like to age it longer but it
Four Seasons Jakarta event with market opportunities. cattle to be transported to Indonesia to cater isn’t feasible logistic-wise,” he says. Many
Executive Chef Vindex Tengker to the local market and although there is a Australian companies also have to rely
“Indonesia’s close proximity to Australia way to go, it is obvious that there is a market on their distributors to age the meat,
and growing affluence as a nation makes it a for local beef and huge potential. However Richard points out that their
very important export market to Victoria. premium product, their prime rib, is dry-
“The country has grown to become One of Australia’s largest and oldest aged for 3 months.
Victoria’s fifth most valuable food export companies, Elders, has entered the
market, worth $304 million in 2007/08 – Indonesian market with a product branded “No one really does this here as it is costly
an increase of 21 per cent over 2006/07.” Sterling Beef, produced in Java and and we lose between 40-50% of the
represented by Sukanda Djaya. product in the process. It is only a small
Mr Helper said as part of the Brumby line currently but it is our best,” he says.
Government’s $205 million Future Dressed in national costume, including his Ultimately his opinion is that taste comes
A wealth of fresh Australian produce
Farming Strategy, almost $3 million Akubra hat, President Director, Richard with age, you need some big, old, fat, cattle
over three years had been dedicated to Slaney was on hand to discuss the merits of for the best meat.
Roland Lickert, chef and owner of Lamak, Ubud, shares a Crumbed beef cheks created for
improving our responses to market and his local beef. “ We have set up a unique
moment with the Victorians at Gourmet Garage. Victorian event at Conrad, Bali by
value-chain challenges with an emphasis business model for Indonesia and we are Only two and a half years old, Sterling’s
Richard Millar
on maintaining and gaining new market constantly upgrading the product.” abattoir is located within the grounds of
access. the university at Bogor and they have a
“Our beef is all produced from Australian commitment to provide training for students
“Our Future Farming Strategy is developing cattle that is flown in at age 18 months to bound for local government jobs in food-
a more responsive and internationally two and a half years, then fed at our lot for related fields as well as veterinary students.
competitive agrifood sector that is able to 100 days before being slaughtered. Our
capture new market opportunities,” he said. biggest competitor is Suntory, the local The company also sells live cows, representing
leader, but we are making improvements all about 30% of their business.
The Department of Primary Industries’ the time and seeing our market expanding,”
(DPI) Manager of Market Development he explains. The other local beef companies at the
South-East Asia, Tim Roache, said ongoing exhibition were Bina Mentari Tungall
discussions between the two countries As the major problem with the local beef who’s local beef products include Kibif,
The aim of the visit was for producers and exporters from Victoria to
and local agricultural exporters was vital is not the cattle or the abattoir conditions, their domestic product and Orin beef,
meet key people in the food and beverage industry.
to enhance market access and develop some of which are world class, but the short their premium line, and Bali Beef, an
the Indonesian market for Victorian food aging process, Richard addressed this. emerging brand.
The first event was held at the Four Seasons, Jakarta and hosted by
products.
ACP President, Vindex. The first Bali event gave Conrad’s Richard
Millar a chance to get creative with a variety of ingredients and host a “ Our normal process involves processing Contacts for Sterling Beef: Richard Slaney
“We are continually working to cement our the cows, cold-boning them and chilling (021) 78840708, slaney@elders.com.au or
dinner for a large groups of the island’s top chefs.
business relationship with Indonesia as one the carcasses for 20 hours before packaging through Sukanda Djaya.
of Victoria’s top 10 markets for agrifood them and holding them for two days. After
The following day Lotus hosted an event at Gourmet Garage which
exports,” Mr Roache said. this they are re-inspected and distributed. PT. Bina Mentari Tunggal: (0260) 461539.
gave Bill Busch a chance to play with his favourite new toy, his Rational
Tim Roache
oven, turning out superb beef and lamb.

8 TASTE | May - June 2009

 Salon Culinaire 2009 He offered this feedback:
Gold! Bali’s chocolate scuplture
with dessert
Gold! Sweet success for Bali at
Salon Culinaire 2009

Jakarta
“All of the judges agree that the biggest
mistake made is NOT tasting the food.
Held in conjunction with the Food and Hotel Expo in April, the Salon
Culinaire showcased the skills of professional chefs in three days of hotly
“Not enough seasonings. No salt in the
contested competitions.
water when cooking vegetables, main
courses not seasoned, salads for garnish
For the first time representatives from WACS, (World Association
not dressed... TASTE your food while
of Chefs) was invited to oversee the level of professionalism at the
cooking!
competition. Presidents of other regional chefs’ clubs were among the
prestigious line-up of judges, which included leading chefs from around
Hot food being served on cold plates! Trying
the world.
too hard to impress with presentation and
not being concerned with flavor, texture
Throughout Asia the competition circuit is gaining momentum and
and hot food being served hot.
junior chefs have now been included in with an event of their own. The
Association of Culinary Professionals, Jakarta (ACP) put enormous
“I am certain there would be a marked
effort into the event. Major sponsors provided product and equipment
improvement, and more medals, if the
for the show.
teams would only taste, season and properly
serve their food. Basic cooking skills 101.”
This is the most professional and largest show and competition staged in
Jakarta with the standards clearly very high among the medal winners.
All the team leaders agreed that the judges Cup in Lyon, France. This year however the Sponsorship is a big factor for local teams with
Jakarta Four Seasons won the trophy for best overall in the competition.
were fair and encouraging. “Being exposed team believe they have an added advantage in some countries sending their pastry chefs to
On every level throughout the competition medal winners exhibited
to this level of competition in front of the form of their mentor, St Regis’ pastry chef Lyon to study and practice in advance of
both creativity and skill in their chosen area.
judges who are among the most successful Vincent Stopin. the competition. “ It is a very serious level of
in their field is an invaluable experience for competition and highly regarded,” explains
The next Salon Culinaire will be held in Bali in 2010.
our chefs. It is the ‘Idol” of cooking and According to St Regis’ Executive Chef, Oscar team leader Stefan Mueller, F&B Director of
each time the standards get better and
The Judges better,” says Darren Lauder Executive Chef
Perez, there is a great deal more preparation Nikko Resort.
that needs to be done before these young chefs
of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and team leader are ready to compete on the world stage. “Nevertheless another win this time is a
A line-up of industry professionals from around the world made up
for Bali’s Junior Chefs. great confidence builder for our local team.
the panel of judges for this year’s Salon Culinaire. Representatives
“However,” he says, “we have the advantage of They have taken firm steps in the right
from the World Association of Chefs Society were also asked to oversee
time on our side as the Singapore competition direction, they are ambitious and motivated”
the competition to ensure that as Indonesia enters the world culinary Bali Brings Home Asian is almost a year away.” commented Stefan.
stage, participating increasingly in International events, the standard is
consistent with major events elsewhere. Pastry Cup
It is a long road to Lyon where the World The team owe special thanks to:
TThe talented team of Balinese pastry chefs, Pastry Cup is held every two years, and the • St. Regis (for providing their facilities - thanks
Eduard Betz of Hotel Borobudur, Jkarta was appointed co-ordinator
Wayan Laspina and Made Sutisna impressed competition is fierce. Teams from around the to Oscar Perez, and expertise of pastry chef
for the event and had the highest praise for the judging, an important
the judges with their skill, creativity and world spend large sums of money and invest Vincent for the training of APC teams, as well
component of world-class events.
expertise to win the Indonesian selection and months, and sometimes years, to win this providing essential equipment for the teams to
a gold medal in the Asian Pastry Cup at the prestigious prize. With each successive win, use during their competition)
Kenny Kong, President of Singapore Pastry Alliance, praised the
Salon Culinaire 2009 in Jakarta. however, our team gets closer, having just • The Ayana Resort & Spa (for freeing their
organisers and called the event both “intense and memorable.”
missed the top four selection in Singapore staff to participate as well the Executive Sous
The Indonesian winners of The Asian Pastry last year. Chef as team co-ordinator for APC Pak Agus)
While John Sloane head of WACS Asia wrote to say, “I have heard many
Cup, Wayan, now at St Regis, and Made from • Nikko Bali Resort & Spa (for freeing their
good things about the event. It’s a great start and may it continue. Vindex
Ayana Resort and Spa, now have three years It is a gruelling event as well. A team of two pastry chef to participate)
& Made are to be congratulated for great coordination.”
Wayan and Made practice at St experience competing, gaining valuable skills chefs have to prepare four show-pieces in eight • Gourmet Garage & Bill Busch (for handling
Regis (top) with each attempt. Last year they scored well hours in front of the judges. These include a all logistics of equipment for the teams)
Billy Marinelli, owner of Marinelli Shellfish Company and a restaurant
in the Singapore regional competition but sugar piece, a chocolate piece, a dessert and a • Le Bake and J.P. Petit for support with
owner, was one of the guest judges for the Bocuse d’Or. He also served
30 International judges and repre- chocolate cake. equipment.
throughout the competition on other events, including the Junior Chef failed to get the nomination for World Pastry
sentatives from WACS gathered for
the Salon Culinaire 2009 (above) Challenge.

10 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 11

 Darren Lauder with the Young Chefs
at Denpasar Airport (right) Pass The Fish plates, causing the sauce to become
congealed and almost inedible. At this level
world get together in Lyons in order to
give an incredible performance involving
Bali Junior Chefs show off their these kind of basic rules should not even be the preparation of two exceptional dishes
medals. Arfan has gold. (below)
Not a man to mince his words, guest judge
a consideration. There is still a long way to within 5 hours and 30 minutes, in front of
Otto Weibel claimed that the entries in
go for some of these chefs,” he said. the public, the press and the jury.
Winning entry by Junior Chefs Kuala this year’s Bocuse d’Or ranged from vastly
Lumpur (bottom) improved to others who failed to perform
The winners of the Jakarta Selection for the Named for legendary chef paul Bocuse,
on the day.
Bocuse d’Or Asia were Guruh Nugraha the competition goes back to 1983, when
and Zahirsyah Basyaruddin from Parklane the Salon des Métiers de Bouche (Culinary
Having competed internationally himself
Hote, Jakarta who presented two dishes Sector Exhibition and Trade Fair) was
and currently Director of Kitchens
that delighted the judges. created in Lyon - “An exhibition organised
for Stamford group and Fairmont in
by professionals for professionals.” Lyon,
Singapore, Otto is regarded very highly in
The first Bocuse d’Or Asia gathered 10 the renowned gastronomic capital was
the culinary community and his opinion
countries during Gourmet World Shanghai, lacking an event that could live up to its
carries great weight.
29th-31st of May 2008, at Pudong Expo in worldwide reputation.

First Asian Junior Chefs of Chefs Societies for Asia (WACS),

Singapore-based Alan Orreal, who is
Along with a team of highly regarded
Shanghai-China.
With around 500 exhibitors and 51.000
Challenge heading up the Asian Young Chefs
judges, including Kenny Kong President
of Singapore Pastry Alliance, Federico
The event was part of a movement that aims visitors, the exhibition was a great success.
programs, was impressed and encouraged at setting up a high standard on the way to A success story confirmed with the 2nd
Michiellto, President of Chefs Association
One of the greatest initiatives of the past by this first Asian challenge. the Bocuse d’Or World Finals in Lyons. edition in 1985 at Eurexpo, the new Lyon
of Malaysia and seafood supplier, Billy
twelve months has been the introduction The 10 countries that competed in 2008 Exhibition Centre, with 750 exhibitors
Marinelli,, the contestants had to prepare
of the young chefs clubs in Bali and “It is an important program for WACS as were: China, India, Indonesia, Japan, and 70.000 visitors. Following this success,
a salmon and a meat dish live in front of
Jakarta. The recent Salon Culinaire in the future is all about encouraging young Lebanon, Malaysia, Singapore, South on January 24th 1987 Bocuse d’Or was
a panel of judges. The level of creativity
Jakarta hosted the first Asian Young Chefs chefs. In other parts of the world there Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam. formally created.
was for the most high, with some entries
challenge, giving our local teams the are great opportunities for young chefs to
worthy of a fine dining restaurant.
chance to compete against Malaysia and improve their skills and compete on an
Singapore for the first time. international level. With an increase in
History of Bocuse d’Or Jakarta Park Lane took the honours to
represent Indonesia in the next round of
Otto Weibel commented that some of the
sponsorship, WACS is now focussing on the Asian competition.
entries were not of such high standard. Since 1987, every two years, 24 chefs
In a standout effort, A Alfan M of The Asia in order to give these young people
“Simple mistakes like not warming the selected from the best kitchens in the
Loop Restaurant in Canggu easily won the same chances,” he explains.
the gold medal, for a beautifully executed,
spicy chilli crab ravioli with a creamy fennel Competitions are invaluable for junior
The salmon keeps coming at Bocuse
sauce and confit fennel salad. chefs and with increased sponsorship they d’Or selection.
can now access international scholarships.
The more established teams from Malaysia
and Singapore took home the gold and “The more competitions they enter, the
silver in the live cooking competition better their chances are. They are judged
which required each team to prepare a on everything from their prep and kitchen
three course menu in 120 minutes. The skills to cleanliness, teamwork and on the
Bali team comprising three young chefs, final product. Taste makes up a large part
came in a very close third to take home of the marks,” explains Darren Lauder of
the bronze. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, team manager for
the Bali Junior Chefs.
Jatu Rizki Putra Aburantha of Four
Seasons, together with I Made Putra “Overall, I am very pleased with the
Susila and Ivan Suputra (both students at results and the team are realistic about
STP) put in a great effort to impress the where they performed well and where they
judges but were outmatched by the more can improve.”
experienced teams.
A special thanks to Sukanda Djaya from the
Representing the World Association Junior Chefs for their generous sponsorship.

12 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 13

 Brilliant
Baguettes
I teach my staff to do the same. Bread is a
lot to do with feeling. You feel the elasticity,
the heat, the rise, it can change with different
equipment and environments and that is why
experience is so important,” he continues.

Denis has adapted his recipe and technique to

the tropics. You need to create a firmer crust
here and cook it a little longer than normal so
the crust doesn’t soften up too quickly.

“I mix my dough carefully. Slowly at first

and then faster until it reaches 24 degrees.
Then rest it for 30 minutes before forming
The baguette is to the French what rice it and proving for one and half hours. I then
take a special knife to make the marks in the
is to the Asians. According to French dough and cook it 18 to 20 minutes in a
220 degree oven.”
baker, Carrefour’s Denis, it is the first
food many French people remember Denis says there is a sound when the bread
emerges from the oven, it is not only the
having and it is eaten every day. smell of the freshly baked loaves that calls to
the customers who seem to head straight for
This is, however, possibly the most abused made ones. The holes are not even and this is the bakery section almost as if hypnotised.
bakery product, apart from the sliced loaf. how you can tell,” he enthuses.
To get it right takes experience, skill and love Denis says this job is his dream come true.
according to Denis. “My recipe uses 10% sourdough, which is After 25 years as a baker, he has finally
made from the old dough which I keep a come out – of the kitchen that is. He loves
Carrefour, a French supermarket chain, is minimum of four days. This gives the crisp watching people choose the bread, smell the
quickly building their Asian business. Hiring texture to the crust and also gives a great bread and especially watching Indonesian
Denis to head up their bakery business has flavour to the bread.” customers taking a chance on something
resulted in unprecedented success in their new. He is also happy to take special orders
Bali store. This is a man who loves to come “I can teach my staff to cook the bread we and has created a market in par-baked bread
to work, gets a real kick out of passing on produce here. I can show them over and over that is proving popular.
his skill and truly enjoys seeing his customers but I cannot pass my experience on to them,
arrive and pick up the bread, smell it, break that is something they must learn over time. He is also creating incredible patisserie, at
pieces off to eat before they have even paid. If they make a mistake I can tell straight a fraction of the cost of his competitors.
away, just by looking, what has gone wrong,” He claims there is no reason customers a
Carrefour’s bakery produces an amazing he explains. high price, his costings are realistic and he
variety of breads, freshly baked on the is making a profit selling individual tarts
premises. He makes predominantly two There are a few things that are absolute rules and pastries like his famous millefeuile for
types of baguette, a classic and a lamourette, in baking bread. Denis says he now has all under Rp8,000.
which are among the most popular items in the best equipment, something he is very
the store. He also shapes the dough and adds happy with, but he still teaches his staff to Being creative in his role is also important
flour to create a rustic loaf. feel the bread, not to rely on machines. to him, expanding the range to wedding
cakes, specialty cakes and more. “I am now
“The traditional baguette is still a favourite. “In baking bread you must pay close attention working on funny cakes for children. People
We produce over 200 per day, all by hand, to the temperature. The temperature of the tell me I look like Mr Bean, so I want to put
and usually we bake three times a day. water is important and the temperature that Mr Bean’s head on a Spiderman body – a
Making the baguettes by hand produces a the dough reaches while mixing it. I don’t use Spiderbean cake!.”
completely different result than the machine- a thermometer, I can feel by touching it and

May - June 2009 | TASTE 15

 The TASTE of
An unassuming place, despite the sheesha Herbs lift a simple cheese bourek
pipes and the belly dancer, Kebab Palace is a out of the ordinary

GREECE
great example of how simple food can be and
yet still be fabulous. Roadside in Jl. Kartika
Plaza, aluminium tables and vinyl chairs
are laid out, the interior features a simple
counter with stacks of chicken and imported
lamb turning on the doner kebabs and large
photos of the various house specialties.

Truly authentic food has the power to transport you; to another time, Kebab Palace has the usual line-up of Greek,
another place. Kebab Palace is a place where a single bite can transport you Turkish and some Middle Eastern specialties.
What is startling is how authentic they
to the streets of Istanbul, a taverna in Athens, a middle-eastern bazaar. taste. Souvlaki is freshly sliced as you order, Pygmalion Diakoudis
slathered in tzatiki, dressed with red onions
Photos by Demetrios Spanakis
and tomatoes and laid on the freshly baked
pita bread. These are produced at owner/
chef Pygmalion Diakoudis’s home every day
and sent to various restaurants in addition
to his own.

All the preparation of the meat, from

filleting to marinade is done on the premises
and Pygmalion is there every day to check
that everything is perfect. Beef and lamb
come from Australia, his herbs and spices Chicken or lamb doner
at Kebab Palace
from Greece where possible. The menu
features kebabs of all types, falafel, cheese
pies, simple salads full of flavour and a list “Take minced beef, we make so many can taste so vastly different.
of typical home-made desserts, including a different dishes with this,” he explains as we sit
wonderful baklava. in Seminyak restaurant Panterei, Pygmalion’s Kebab Palace doesn’t do this fancy stuff, it
first Greek restaurant where he has recently is purely basic, but from the moustachioed
Both the Greek and the Turkish cultures have returned to the kitchens as a consultant. types hanging out for their take-away, you
a tradition of food that depends largely on can tell the Greeks and the Turks have
taste. The best recipes are not written but felt. To illustrate his point about the herbs he asks discovered this place. They aren’t the only
So it is when you meet with Pygmalion to the staff to prepare two types of meatballs. ones; apart from his consulting to Panterei
attempt to get recipes. He will happily talk One is a dolmades-type (wrapped) in cabbage, and Taman Selini in Pemuteran, he is also
you through them, moustache twitching, the other a simple meatball (kefte) pan-fried in demand for events, called on by M&M
but nothing is written down, quantities are and then stewed in home-made tomato sauce. Catering as well as private clients. He has a
estimates. “So what do you want to know?” The kefte tastes distinctly of cumin although healthy business selling his bread, falafel and
he asks. notes of the oregano are also there. pizza to local businesses.

To appreciate the depth of flavour you have The dolmades are a heady mixture of rice A Greek born in Turkey, with a Turkish
to taste it for yourself and by comparing and mince, with an unmistakeable flavour of business partner, Pygmalion is a man who
dishes that have the same basic ingredients, dill, they are wrapped in par-boiled cabbage, spans two cultures whose tastes have a lot in
you realise that in this style of cooking it is weighted and cooked in a casserole with water, common. Kebab Palace is the perfect place
the herbs, and the combination of them, lemon juice and olive oil. Left to absorb the to discover them, and don’t forget to ask
that gives each dish its characteristics; wild liquid, which is then used as a warm broth to Pygmalion for any recipes you might want.
oregano, cumin, dill, lemon of course, “cook” the eggs for the heavenly avgolemono Take a pen because he won’t be writing them
paprika, thyme and oregano. Rather than sauce, which is liberally tipped over them. It out any time soon.
flavouring the food, the herbs are at the is time-consuming and hardly as simple as it Kebab Place:
Falafel bursts with flavour and forefront and are distinctive in each dish. looks. It is astounding how two mince dishes Jl Kartika Plaza, Kuta Centre T: 758075
freshness

May - June 2009 | TASTE 17

 gourmet traveller

Service So Good
Ritz-Carlton was at the top of that list.
When I approached them with the idea,
many conversations took place with senior
management. The decision was made to
provide in-depth access and to share a

They Wrote
candid view of the company’s business
practices, culture, strategy, breakdowns and
challenges.”

a Book About It
In “The New Gold Standard” Michelli takes
an in-depth look at how such an iconic
brand stays relevant in changing times,
the importance of over communicating
company values, maintaining a vital and
By Sarah Dougherty - Taste Editorial Consultant engaged work force, and transferring trust
to empowerment. He also attended sessions
of The Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center,
A funny thing happened on my way to Ritz much space I felt like I should throw a party. The red wine sauce, and could not have eaten The card was simply written and left me with an award-winning training facility for
Carlton in Jakarta. Instead of heading for the bathroom was incredible with a bath that also more. It was rich, cut like butter and the a sense of wonder. She simply expressed her corporate executives and business owners.
Kuningan property I arrived by mistake at Pacific overlooked the glittering city. Dinner followed sauce was perfect. hope that each time I used the mug I would From that experience, the author identifies
Place. I had researched steak houses and decided soon after and a group of us sat down. The waiter have fond memories of my stay and she several key points which help explain the
I would review Jakarta’s most awarded restaurant was incredibly well informed, almost intuitive, The next morning I luxuriated in my room thanked me for coming. enduring reputation for excellence of the
of this type, Prime Restaurant. about what we might like for an entrÈe. The steak before heading to the top floor for breakfast hotel company which traces its roots back
menu was just that. A selection of various cuts of in desperate need of a coffee. When I spied That waitress and that experience come to to legendary hotelier Cesar Ritz in the
Unfortunately between emails, I forgot to enquire US Prime beef sat beside a selection of Australian the regular-sized coffee cups I pleaded mind more often than I reach for a coffee, it early 1900s.
which of their two properties it was located in. wagyu steaks of varying grades and cuts. with the waitress to find me a larger one. was spectacular.
The staff reacted instantly when I arrived, before She promptly removed one from a display, The points include: understanding the ever-
I had a chance to smoke a cigarette, I was in a The Chef Frank Koppelkamm sat down for a offered to wash it and served my steaming THE “NEW GOLD STANDARD” evolving needs of the customers; empowering
Silver Bird Taxi headed for the older property while and explained that although the wagyu is mug of life-saving caffeine. In light of my experience I am therefore not employees by treating them with the
and feeling a little let down. very popular, especially with Asian guests who surprised to find that best-selling US author utmost respect; anticipating customers’
appreciate the soft texture, for him, he likes his Breakfast was a magnificent buffet served Dr. Joseph A. Mitchelli has recently released unexpressed needs and concerns; enabling
However, when a grand colonial building came steak with a little bit of fat, and he prefers his with the city waking up around me. an entire book devoted to the service ethic guests to design their own experience; and
into view I started to sense this wasn’t such a bad prime beef from the US as he feels it has more of Ritz-Carlton that has been endorsed by developing and conducting an unsurpassed
Frank Koppelkamm thing. Three staff met me at the door, including flavour. For his wagyu he favours the Australian. On leaving she offered a Ritz Carlton mug many business leaders and is being widely training regime. At the end of each chapter,
Chef de Cuisine of Prime Steakhouse the immaculate Public Relations manager, Els, and explained she would keep it on the Club used as a model for customer service Dr. Michelli poses questions for readers to
at The Ritz-Carlton, Jakarta “I like to keep things simple. Food should look floor especially for me. I didn’t explain I was
apologised for the mistake (mine, entirely) and standards. consider about their own business practices
led me through the classically decorated lobby like food, taste like food, I don’t have much checking out, she was so sweet about it. and corporate culture.
into the lounge where I was given a cold beer and time for molecular inventions. My sauces are Dr. Michelli noted: “After my book ‘The
made to feel like I had arrived home. flavourful, the steaks speak for themselves,” he I returned to my room and the doorbell rang. Starbucks Experience’ made the global The “New Gold Standard” is published by
explains. It has earned him two awards this year It was the same waitress with a boxed mug bestseller lists, I was approached by many McGraw Hill.
My room, that I had far too little time to indulge alone, so obviously this formula works. and a handwritten card. She had discovered companies asking me to profile them. Prime Steakhouse
in, was stunning. Located on the 23rd floor, I was checking out and she handed me the However, I created my own short list Ritz Carlton Kuningan
with floor to ceiling windows that opened onto I chose the best wagyu (9+), luckily offered in mug and the card with a smile and said she of corporations with a track record of JL. Lingkar Mega Kuningan, Jakarta
a glittering sky-line, sumptuous carpet and so two portion sizes, I chose the 120 grams with a hoped it would be a reminder of my stay. exceptional customer experiences – The T: (021) 2551 8876.

18 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 19

 advertorial

$ave Your Money

– no wastage with RATIONAL
SelfCooking Center
watching or controlling the cooking process
is a thing of the past as SelfCooking Control®
takes care of everything for us.

Giving you time to think up that special

marinade. Experiment with bourbon
whiskey or scrumpy jack cider and of
course there’s all those different mustards
and honeys to try out too. When you enter
the kitchen in the morning the SelfCooking
Center® will be in a holding & maturing
phase which will simply increase the quality
even further. Then simply baste your ham in
that special marinade and finish the roasting.
Immediately freeing up your SelfCooking
Center® so that it’s ready to prepare your
vegetables and side dishes.

Why not take advantage of what the

SelfCooking Center® can offer you. Using
moist cooking with the “Delta T technique”
will also bring similar benefits from boiled
Fantastic results are guaranteed with moist cooking function and automatically beef, vitello-tonnato, gammon and much
RATIONAL SelfCooking Center AND benefit from the very gentle cooking Delta more.
you save money by reducing shrinkage to T technique. Delta T cooks the food
Contact:
an absolute minimum. by maintaining a constant temperature
RATIONAL International AG
difference between the meat and the
Millie Chan
Watching the budget is essential for every cooking chamber. This means that as the Sales Director International partner Business
working chef and reducing shrinkage of raw meat rises in temperature so does the Indonesian Mobile: + 62 815 5892 5618
materials is one way to ensure your costs are SelfCooking Center®. Another added Philippines Mobile: + 63 927 3683 348
reduced. benefit of Delta T is that due to the gentle
PT Gastro Gizi Sarana
cooking process, shrinkage is reduced to an
Commercial Kitchen, Catering, Laundry,
For special events why not try a succulent absolute minimum; therefore raw material Refrigeration
honey and mustard roast ham slowly cooked costs are also kept low. and Stainless Steel Fabrication.
in the RATIONAL SelfCooking Center®. A
fantastic looking centre piece that will be There is also no need to enter any cooking Bali Office and Showroom :
Sunset Road (Next to Carrefour Kuta)
bursting with flavour and mouth wateringly temperature or time and thanks to the
Denpasar – Bali
juicy. SelfCooking Centers® ability to cook
P : (0361) 8477 330
overnight you can also win the night as F : (0361) 8477 234
Simply cook hams in advance under the additional production capacity. Turning, E : gastro@dps.centrin.net.id

20 TASTE | May - June 2009

 advertorial design update

Inspiration happens at
tables of Hospitality Essentials
TRADITION Hospitality Essentials is a dedicated Baskets, baskets, baskets!
company that caters to the hospitality Baskets offer a versatile solution to many
Mr Ubud
industry. Their team of designers will create service and presentation challenges! The
a range based on the needs of the customers Hospitality Essentials catalogue already
or work with existing designs in the range to boasts a wide range of woven baskets in all
tailor a perfect match. shapes, sizes and colours for uses such as
laundry, valet return and food presentation!
The innovative company is up to date with The options are endless! As with all of the
international trends and responsible for products, each basket can be customized
creating some themselves. The showroom according to requirements - making them a
is a great source of inspiration and the versatile addition to any accessories range.
personal service each customer receives has
made them one of the Bali’s most successful Grid Collection - New Additions!
suppliers of quality ranges for the hospitality Hospitality Essentials has recently added some
industry. Here we feature two of their latest new items to the popular Grid Collection to
We call it a ‘Sulinggih’ experience and everything
range but also urge you to meet with their create a clean, modern look suitable for both
from the food to the music and the atmosphere
designers and wander the showroom in island and corporate properties. As with all of
create a balance we refer to as Bali Taksu,” explains
search of inspiration for your next project, their ranges it can be finished in a variety of
the General Manager who is known locally as Mr
large or small. different shades, allowing you to customise
Ubud.
to suit each individual property’s interior
design concept.
“The food is calculated very carefully to balance
the spices. Our own spice is made up of 98%
Basa Basic (chopped spices) and finished with
aromatic spices. The basic spices used are daun
salam (local bay leaf ), shallots, galangal, shallots,
garlic, lemongrass and tumeric with chilli. The

Bamboo Collection
aromatics we include are coriander, white pepper,
sesame, chilli, candlenut and clove.”

Padi Prada Resto has long been a favourite of

locals and tourists alike for their traditional
The restaurant has remained true to its authentic
roots and has claimed a market among people
who want to experience classical Balinese food.
by Jenggala
atmosphere and authentic recipes.
The main attraction is the local crispy-fried duck. Jenggala Ceramics latest collection finds its inspiration in
Perched over magnificent rice fields, the restaurant “When dealing with local duck it is important nature.
has earned a reputation among those seeking a to buy the freshest possible, many are still alive.
real Balinese experience, far from the modern Then the duck must be deodorised, de-feathered The Bamboo Bath Collection places the bamboo shape
creations that are now so popular. Artfully and then carefully fried so it has a lovely colour, in various orientations including a tissue box, soap dish,
presented food is carefully and hygienically is crisp outside and not dried out,” Mr Ubud shampoo and conditioner dispensers, toothbrush cup
prepared offering diners the assurance of years of points out to us, taking great pride in offering an and cotton bud container, fit nicely onto a bamboo tray.
trusted service and experience. authentic dining experience which many visitors
claim is difficult to find these day. Bamboo Jug Set is inspired by the shape of cups and jugs
“A specialty of our restaurant is high Balinese used in the Indonesian tradition of drinking ‘tuak’. The
food, the food traditionally served in the homes Padi Prada glaze finishes diversify with four different colors to mix
and palaces of royals and distinguished guests. Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. T: (0361) 978972 and match with the large jug and individual cups.

22 TASTE | May - June 2009

 News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm The association with honour and glory continues today; Potato and Leek Soup

Raw Nature
we have poet laureates (Apollo was the God of poets), and
bacca-laureate means “laurel berries” which signifies the with Bouquet Garni
completion of a bachelor degree.
INGREDIENTS
Bay leaf contains compounds called parthenolides, which • 1 large or 2 small leeks, about 1 pound
have proven useful as an herbal remedy in the treatment • 3 sprigs Dr. Rocket organic parsley
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis of migraines. It has also been shown to help the body • 1 bay leaves
process insulin more efficiently, which leads to lower • 1 sprig Dr. Rocket organic thyme
blood sugar levels.. Bay leaves and berries have been • 2 tablespoons butter
After writing about “Les Fines Herbs” I think it is important that I write about the other used for their astringent, carminative, digestive, diuretic, • 2 strips bacon, chopped
French blend of herbs I mentioned in the last issue, the “Bouquet Garni”. The classic one is emetic and stomachic properties to reduce the effects of
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
stomach ulcers. Bay Leaf contains eugenol, which has
made with 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, and 1 bay leaf, however I like to add to mine • 5 cups chicken stock
anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Bay leaf is
• 1 to 1 1/4 pounds russet potatoes,
1 sprig of Rosemary as well. also an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.
diced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Bay leaves, an appropriate seasoning for fish, meat and
• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper
poultry, are widely used throughout the world to flavour
• 1/2 to 3/4 cup creme fraiche or
These herbs, are used for their pungent and soups, sauces, stews and courts-bouillons. They are often
heavy cream
resinous characteristics, and are typically used included as a pickling spice.
• 2 tablespoons snipped Dr Rocket
in dishes that cook for a long time to release
organic chives
their flavour. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) has fragrant evergreen
needle-like leaves. The name derives from the Latin name
The herbs are either bundled together with a • Rosemary rosmarinus, which is from “dew” (ros) and “sea” (marinus), PREPARATIONS
natural string or they are put in a cheesecloth or “dew of the sea”, because in the Mediterranean Region Trim the green portions of the leek and, using 2 of the largest and longest
bag, so that they can be removed at the end where it originated, it is frequently found growing near leaves, make a bouquet garni by folding the 2 leaves around the parsley,
of the cooking. the sea. the bay leaf and the thyme. Tie into a package-shaped bundle with kitchen
twine and set aside. (Alternately, tie 2 leek leaves, parsley, bay leaf and
Parsley is used in the Fines Herbs as well Rosemary has a very old reputation for improving thyme together in a piece of cheesecloth.
as the Bouquet Garni, and having already memory, and has been used as a symbol for remembrance
written about it in the previous article, I will (during weddings, war commemorations and funerals) in Using a sharp knife, halve the white part of the leek lengthwise and rinse
omit it in this one. Europe and Australia. well under cold running water to rid the leek of any sand. Slice thinly
crosswise and set aside.
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is a small plant with Thyme, while flavourful, does not overpower • Thyme Rosemary contains a number of potentially biologically
tiny leaves, which are greenish grey in colour. and blends well with other herbs and spices. active compounds, including antioxidants such as carnosic In a large soup pot over medium heat, melt the butter and add the bacon.
The name derivates from a Greek word that Is often used to flavour meats, soups and acid and rosmarinic acid. The results of a study suggest Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is very soft
means to fumigate, as it was used as incense stews. It has a particular affinity to and is that carnosic acid may shield the brain from free radicals, and has rendered most of its fat. Add the chopped leeks and cook until
for its balsamic odor and was believed to put often used as a primary flavour with lamb, lowering the risk of strokes and neurodegenerative diseases wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Add the reserved
to flight all venomous creatures. The Romans tomatoes and eggs. In some Middle Eastern like Alzheimer’s and Lou Gehrig’s. Rosemary helps to relax bouquet garni, chicken stock, potatoes, salt and white pepper, and bring to
used it to flavour cheeses and liqueurs. countries, the condiment za’atar ( Arabic for muscles, including the smooth muscles of the digestive a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, or until the
thyme) contains thyme as a vital ingredient. tract and uterus. Because of this property it can be used to potatoes are falling apart and the soup is very flavorful.
The essential oil of thyme is thymol, an soothe digestive upsets and relieve menstrual cramps.
antiseptic, which is the main active ingredient Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis) is the aromatic leaf Remove the bouquet garni and, working in batches, puree the soup in a
in Listerine mouthwash. Before the advent of of Bay laurel, it originated in Asia Minor, However in large amounts it can achieve the opposite food processor or blender. (Alternately, if you own an immersion blender,
modern antibiotics, it was used to medicate from where it spread to the Mediterranean effect. Cosmetically, an infusion can be used as a rinse puree the soup directly in the pot.) Stir in the creme fraiche and adjust the
bandages. Thyme boiled in water and cooled countries. The laurel tree that the bay to lighten blond hair, to condition and tone all hair and seasoning, if necessary.
is very effective against inflammation of the leaf comes from was very important both mixed half and half with shampoo to strengthen hair.
throat when gargled 3 times a day. A tea made symbolically and literally in both Greece and Serve immediately, with some of the snipped chives sprinkled over the top
by the herb in water can be used for coughs Rome as a symbol of honor. Emperors, heroes Fresh rosemary is used to flavour soups, stews and meat of each bowl of soup.
and bronchitis. It is a good source of iron. and poets wore wreaths of laurel leaves. • Italian Parsley dishes especially lamb and chicken.

24 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 25

 wine story

VON SIEBENTHAL CARABANTES SYRAH

violets, red berries, bluberries, spice, herbs, mint

The Wine
sweet, slight toasty oak, blueberry, herbs, red
berries, white pepper

from Indowine

Dinner Dilemma
CHEESE
crème brule of goat cheese with beetroot
garlic grissini
signature dish by Bastian Mantey

© image courtesy of the laguna resort & spa

By Katrina Valkenburg However, many times in Bali I have advance, chances are that he/she will create a special experience. If you imagine 5 x $200
discovered that this is not necessarily the sumptuous menu echoing the multitude of for a dinner for 20, then you’re already at $50
case. Perhaps as a result of unbelievably flavours and aromas apparent in the wines. per person before you start on the price of
What comes first, the chicken or the egg? This is one high taxes and tariffs, the cost of the wine the menu.”
precludes the distributor or producer Well known wine aficionado and GM of
of life’s eternal mysteries. However, this is a wine
sending samples to the chef. Instead, a Bulgari Hotel and Resort, Robert Lagerway, “Most guests in Bali expect to be blown away
column and therefore the question to be asked is – list of the wines with tasting notes attached responded when we asked the question on both fronts. Hence a contradiction, as
may be sent out, for which the chef will “What comes first, the food or the wine?” the chef ultimately strives also to deliver a
What comes first, the food or the wine?
then be expected to design an appropriate with, “Wines are important when creating a Culinary WOW, while the Vintner wants the
menu, resulting in a very mixed bag of Food and Wine Experience and often serve as attention drawn to his wine.”
complementary taste sensations. a base for the Culinary Creation. By the same
token it is understood that especially here in When we asked Chef Oscar Perez from the
Designing a menu this way is an Indonesia, products are not always available newly opened St Regis the same question,
extraordinarily difficult thing to do. Firstly, well in advance, so one has to rely on one’s his response was immediate; “For me it
marketing people who want to impress (or knowledge and experience in creating the should merge/a perfect pairing which makes
If you were preparing a dinner at home, the answer would most confuse) the potential customer write the experience.  Often we try to match food and a memorable experience. That’s the effect I
likely be the food. You would decide on a menu and then match tasting notes, often using a string of florid wine with such passion that we forget that it am searching for. Other people’s opinion is
appropriate wines based on weight and texture. Similarly, when adjectives thrown together that may or is acceptable and fun to have combinations what defines them as a chef/individual. Every
you go to a restaurant, most people would scan the menu, may not be particularly helpful. Secondly, that push the envelope a bit and that cross chef/individual is different and it is always
decide on what they shall order for the first and second course, those same marketing people may not be new boundaries”. challenging to make everyone happy due to
and then select the wines. well versed in the product – wine – as often different tastes. And if everyone thinks the
they will have come from marketing other Chef Andrew Skinner had even more to say: same, then life would be boring and there’d
But what happens when you are hosting a wine dinner? In products, from rubber gloves to hairspray. “…..we aim only to do the most amazing be nothing to talk about”.
most cases, the chef will be sent samples of the wines to be wines for our soirees at the Bulgari. But if we
served in advance so that, having tasting them, can design a Thirdly, it is rare (by no means impossible) were to ask for a bottle of each of the wines So, in wrapping up this diatribe, I give the last
complementary menu. Often the chef will incorporate a couple to find a Chef who is au fait with the gamut to be served, which could be as many as five words to Chef Andrew Skinner “Finally, even
of the wines into the courses to be served, either by way of a of the wines available globally, let alone varietals, often the cost of each bottle will be with a bottle of wine in hand, the marriage
marinade for the protein or vegetables or as a major ingredient particular vintages, their aging potential hundreds of dollars.” of food & wine is so subjective that for some
in the dish, such as a red wine jelly. and intrinsic qualities. A chef’s focus is the marriage may be perfect, while for others
primarily on the food and they generally “If the wines are very special and the attendees it just does not seem to CLICK................
Similarly, if you belonged to the rarefied world of wine collectors leave the selection of wine to the Sommelier very low - the on cost is still very significant funny, a bit like real life ..........”
who cellar their hallowed investment until they believe the wines or restaurant patron. as a hidden cost in the menu. Then the menu
have come of age, you would always choose the wine before appears very expensive and an establishment Katrina is a wine educator and consultant.
working out a menu. However, if the chef has been sent samples in may be seen as gouging the guest for his Contact: katrina@mac.com

26 TASTE | May - June 2009 May - June 2009 | TASTE 27

 Barman Komang Bull

distilling the tuak, arak is produced. The

distilled alcohol generally has an alcohol
content of around 40%.

The distilled arak is used both as a base

alcohol for cocktails including daiquiris,
creamy cocktails and a sangria mix that is
full of wonderful local fruit and as shots or
Ginger mojito with Vanilla cream and
shorts using the alcohol infused with local
ginger infused arak Chandi’s own vanilla-infused arak
flavours such as ginger and vanilla.

Chandi’s vanilla arak All berry daiquiri “We are still experimenting with other
on the rocks
infusions, some have worked and others
haven’t. Our customers love it. The
cocktails are delicious, well made and
despite the reputation, people don’t have
any worse hangovers than with other
alcohol,” says Kirsten.

Changing my perceptions wasn’t as difficult

as I first thought. Hving a tasting with wine
columnist Katrina Valkenberg, we agreed that
most of the cocktails were a great success.

Arak with Chef Agung, trained in New York, together Komang slowly came around and the two
Saturday nights are party nights at Chandi,
usually with proceeds going to benefit one
of their pet charities and people pour in.

Sex Appeal
with his wife and Creative Director Kirsten, set out to visit local producers, of which The price is a factor in convincing people to
have developed a concept aimed at creating there are not many legitimate ones, to find buy the arak cocktails, but once tried most
revitalising Indonesian cuisine. So when the best supplier they could. Much of it people are converted. Deciding to delve
it came to setting up the bar, Kirsten set was a matter of tasting it, getting to know into some more in-depth research, I threw
herself the challenge of sourcing high the suppliers, talking to local retailers who myself into the fray one Saturday night
quality arak and creating fabulous infusions stock it and basing their choice on those and I can say emphatically, there is nothing
and cocktails. factors. wrong with their ginger mojitos, in fact,
Shunning the perception of cheap cocktails served in jam jars and dodgy they are bloody good!
“When I first suggested it to our bartender, Arak is a specialty in Bali. The cheaper
welcome drinks with fruit sticking out of them, Chandi restaurant has
Komang Bull, he thought I was joking. version tuak is a raw product made from
committed to raising the bar when it comes to arak. The more I considered it, the more it made fermenting the sap of the coconut tree Chandi Restaurant
sense to serve a local favourite in a modern and is served in many local warungs and Jl Laksmana no 72
Chandi’s signature Sangriatiki Indonesian restaurant,” she explains. used for ceremonies. After filtering it and Tel: 0361 731060

May - June 2009 | TASTE 29

 techniques

The (im)Perfect
Pavlova
The pavlova is considered the national The sugar needs to be added slowly and Stephanie Alexander’s pavlova:
dessert of Australia, although legend has dissolved before adding more or little sugar 6 egg whites (room temperature)
it that it was a New Zealander who first droplets will form on the outside. pinch of salt
created the frothy meringue mixture to 2cups/360 g. caster sugar
celebrate the Russian ballerina. 2tsp cornflour
Meringue hates any kind of grease. 1 tsp vinegar
Such is the tricky nature of creating the The humidity of the tropics is another area (1 cup heavy cream and 15 passion fruit if
perfect pavlova that in fact books are of difficulty. The pavlova here should be using)
devoted to it, discussions abound. A well- cooled in the oven where it is dry. If you
known bookshop cum cafè that celebrates plan to keep it, Ben, head chef at kudeta, Heat the oven to 180C grease a baking tray and
all things cooking, Books For Cooks located suggests you place it in a cool room (not line with paper. Draw a circle on the paper.
in London’s Notting Hill, devotes space in refrigerated) in a container with silicon Put the egg whites and a pinch of salt into a
each of their annual collection of recipes to beads to absorb any liquid. It will not keep clean bowl and whisk until stiff. Start adding
discuss the ins and outs of pavlova making. more than 1 or 2 days maximum. the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, whisking well after
each addition. Continue until whites are stiff
Some tips from the experts: and glossy and sugar is completely dissolved.
Classic Pavlovas. Last of all whisk in the cornflour and vinegar.
Books For Cooks tips: The traditional pavlova is filled with whipped
There is one factor in pavlova making it cream and toipped with strawberries and Shape the meringue within the circle as you
is difficult to control, namely the oven. passion fruit. There are however so many like (round and flat at the top or with raised
It is important to understand the basic variations. A firm favourite is marinated sides like a pie).
principle. What you want is a short blast strawberries, raspberries and crushed Bake for 5 minutes and then reduce the heat
to crisp the outside and then a long period hazelnuts. Kiwi Fruit, chocolate, nuts, to 130C and cook for one hour and fifteen
of low heat to set the inside (but not dry it almost anything can be adapted to the basic minutes. Cool completely and fill with
out like meringue). recipe. whipped cream and fruit of your choice.

30 TASTE | May - June 2009

 spa cuisine Coconut Pad Thai with spicy
almond sauce

Bliss at
Brandon Huisman is known in the community as an innovative chef and of zucchini to mimic the pasta in lasagna
a down to earth guy. It took him over a year however, to finally get down to are just two of the surprisingly versatile
tackling a new menu for the resort’s spa, Bliss. When he finally got serious, he vegetable substitutes and the addition of
hearts of palm into a traditional ceviche
spent six months researching various books and internet sites on raw, vegan
adds an exotic twist.
and healthy food before finally coming up with his new menu. Each dish
has been weighed and meticulously broken down to give exact nutritional
Echoes of Brandon’s ‘cooking roots’ are
information and kilojoule counts. In his own words, “It was one of those
jobs I kept putting off but once I got down to it, I found it fascinating and
evident in the offerings, and although the
Tamales on the Bliss Menu are unlikely to
Organic Quinoa salad
ultimately really satisfying,” Spiced rare tuna
be found in the eating houses of Houston
INGREDIENTS: 1 T Toasted sliced almonds
there remains a touch of the Tex-Mex to
Guests at the Bliss Spa at the Bale, Nusa 1.5 tbsp Curry vinaigrette Recipe 1.5 T Papaya Fine Dice
Polenta tamales on sweet corn and pay homage to his first cooking experiences
Dua are in for more than just a wonderful mushroom ragout attached 1 tsp Lime juice
while the flavour of the Mediterranean
spa experience; resident executive chef 3 T Cooked organic quinoa Black pepper/Sea Salt
in dishes like the Golden Gazpacho and
Brandon Huisman has recently spent some 1/4 cup Thin slice nashi pear
the tender poached chicken served with
quality time creating a new spa menu that 1/3 cup Baby spinach METHOD:
couscous are influenced by his European
encompasses nutrition and taste in one 1/3 cup Frisee lettuce 1. Mix above ingredients together
training and travels.
beautifully balanced offering. 1/3 cup Wild Rocket 2. Stack nicely on plate, garnish with edible
1 tsp sliced chive flowers
Brandon however has found his home here
Brandon drew on many personal culinary
in Bali and relishes the opportunities he has
experiences to create a menu he felt would
found working in a forward-thinking and
satisfy a nutritional need as well as one that
would not just appeal to the palate but
dynamic company that is constantly looking,
not just to meet the needs of their guests, but
Curry Vinaigrette for
Quinoa salad
tantalize it as well.
to lead the way in offering inspiring lifestyle
choices for leisure and renewal.
Adapting recipes to suit the freshest local
produce and drawing on his adaptive skills INGREDIENTS: 1.5 tsp Madras curry powder
In order to enhance the residential
as an alchemical chef he is now happy with 1 T White wine vinegar Salt/pepper to taste
experience, the introduction of a vitality
the ability of both his staff and the quality of .5 tsp Dry mustard
Eggplant rolls stuffed with tofu, Exotic fruits and chopped nuts packed and highly nutritious menu is
the produce, to launch his new menu. 2 T Lime juice METHOD:
ricotta and basil with banana tofu ice cream essential. The Bliss Spa menu is only one of
.5 T minced shallot Add all ingredients in blender except oil,
Brandon’s offerings, from the main kitchen
Brandon brings together a compliment of .5 T Minced garlic slowly add oil while blending
a comprehensive menu, drawing from
raw and cooked foods utilizing vegetables, 3 T grapeseed oil
the same principals of as much fresh local
seafood, chicken and grains to give guests an
produce as possible, is available along with a
opportunity to try something new within
selective wine list featuring some of the best
the parameters of the familiar.
imported wines in the world. A delicious
desert selection is also on hand to tempt the
For example the Rice Paper Ravioli that is
less disciplined. It is all about the choices
served with a pumpkin and saffron broth has a
we make, and Brandon’s various menus at
texture that is instantly palatable with a heady
The Bale offer plenty from the healthy to
mixture of flavors that stimulate the taste
the indulgent.
buds with a mix of curiosity and delight.

The Bliss Menu at the Bale is available at

Using young coconut to great effect as
Bliss Spa, The Bale, Nusa Dua
noodles in a Pad Thai and layering thin slices

32 TASTE | May - June 2009

Nasi Hu’uduk
Playing with local favourites is a personal quest of Philip Mimbimi,
Nutmegs’ talented American chef so not surprisingly he chose to serve
BCP members a family style lunch drawing on traditional styles.

From spring rolls to the spicy rice cooked in coconut milk from which this
style of nasi campur (mixed rice) derives its name a string of innovative
and creative dishes were served that harked back to traditional Indonesian
dishes and spiced with familiar flavours.

Playing with the name of Hu’u was a nice twist that marked a memorable
day for the many members and guests in attendance on a hot February day.
(And no one ended up in the pool!)

Twists on Tapas
A Spanish resort in Bali with a French chef is bound to produce some twists
and Executive Chef, Christian Bealieu, did not fail to disappoint when his
turn to host BCP came around.

With a brilliantly presented tapas plate as first course, featuring some

innovative modern dishes individually labelled on the serving dish lead
into a meltingly wonderful meat course for mains and a refreshing, and
perfectly presented dessert finished off the meal perfectly and showed
that this chef has all the basics mastered and can turn his hand to almost
anything. The Sangria was a hit as well.
 BCP Membership 2009

Sponsorship
NAME COMPANY NAME COMPANY
Simon Yap Asri Indonesia, PT I Made Budartha Kayu Manis Nusa Dua
Dienly Wong Asri Indonesia, PT Wendy Jane Thomas Kevala Ceramics
Winyoto Asri Indonesia, PT I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Kori Restaurant
Josef Zopf Aerowisata Catering Service Ralf Schmidt Kori Restaurant

Salon Culinaire 2009

David Smith Alam boga Komang Gede Subawa Kori Restaurant
Reina Triastuty Alam boga Roland Zauner Kupu Barong
Vynna Indra Alam boga Markus Reichl Legian Beach Hotel
Vera Lukito Anantara Henny Santoso Lotus Distribution
Olaf Aistleitner Arena Sport Café Bill Busch Lotus Distribution
Ni Wayan Santo Asih Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Ayu Suharyani Lotus Distribution
Adrianto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Patrick Marty Ma Joly
Haryanto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Torsten Schubert Maldives
Alexander Erich Aston Kuta Jeff Matthews Mandara Spa Contract Contract
Ketut Sukamara Ayodya Resort Yannis van Heckerer Mannekepis Bistro Sponsorship Name Sponsorship Name
Attila Koermoeczi Ayodya Resort Jayadi Masuya Graha Trikencana, PT Status Status
Ayung Ko Jung Lien Bali Bakery Hidayat Megah Food Trading
Ivan Prakarsa Bali Bakery Christian Beaulieu Melia Bali
Sutedjo Bali Bakery Alejandro Jimenez Real Melia Bali SUKANDA DJAYA Gold NESTLE INDOFOOD Gold
Mario Caramella Bali Hyatt Ketut Sumatra Melia Benoa
Peter Rieger Balivillas.com Agustien Kantiana MIC
Isabella Lin Balivillas.com Christopher J Salans Mozaic SARANA KULINA Gold TULIP CHOC Gold
Endris Yuliawati Balivillas.com Robert Otillie Nemo Wetsuit
Sugihanto Sachid Bapak Bakery Stefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Michael Heriyono Buana Agung Lestari I Made Sumariana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari I Gusti Susrama Mekel Nikko Bali Resort & Spa NIRWANA LESTARI 1 Gold PANDURASA Gold
I Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari I Made Sudana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Andrew Skinner Bulgari Sang Ketut Sumi Adnyana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Heinz Von Holzen Bumbu Bali Katarina Sari Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
I Made Darsana Canggu Club Juergen Domani Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
FONTERA Gold NAYATI Gold
Dennis Langlois Carrefour Ni Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
I Gde Rastarama Classic Fine Foods Reto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Dhany Parwanto Classic Fine Foods I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa SOEJASCH BALI Gold HAGEEN DASZ Silver
Bayu Lagimin Classic Fine Foods I Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Joanes Cantius Tjoeng Delta Satria Dewata, PT Darren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Kib Roby Dharma teas Jeremy Cooper Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Betty Subekty Dineta Jaya John Taylor Padma Bali
CLASSIC FINE FOOD Gold ROYAL SULTAN AGUNG Bronze
Inneke Hoo Dineta Jaya Wayan Nurisa Padma Bali
Eka Saputra Dineta Jaya Ketut Pong Atmajaya Padma Bali
Made Sebastian Suanda Discovery Kartika Plaza Ian Roberts Pamerindo ELOMA Gold SANYO Bronze
Djoko Sebastian Discovery Kartika Plaza Kadek Widiantara Papa’s Café
Hermann Feigl Discovery Kartika Plaza Chung Chung Papaya Fresh Gallery
AA Rai Gunawan Discovery Kartika Plaza Jahn Roger Pepito Café
I Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika Plaza Carlos Vinas Barmona Pica Tapas MFK Gold TOZA Bronze
I Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika Plaza Dewi Rusmala Pica Tapas
Terry Deweer DP Kitchen Jimmy Julianto Pica Tapas
Johan Meyers DP Kitchen Neeta Malhotra Queens tandoor UNILEVER Gold MUNIK Bronze
Agung Pradnya Dewa Dwijaya Ing Gerold Eichinger Raja Bamboo, CV
Ayu Dwijaya Sven Hollinger Satria Pangan Sejati
Sarawoot Lerdmaleewong Ecolab Rick Bolt Smart Energy
Herlina Manurung Ecolab Enny Kudung Soejasch MLA Gold GREAT UNIFORM Bronze
Eko Putranto Ecolab Tutik Yantini Soejasch
Wayan Sumerta ex Discovery Mr Robert Jansen Soejasch
Klaus Kalweit Four Seasons Resort Oscar Perez St Regis Bali PRAMBANAN KENCANA Gold DELICATESA Bronze
Nyoman Maleachi Four Seasons Resort Edi Sidarta St Regis Bali
I Nyoman Warta Four Seasons Resort Rusli C.J. Lokman Sukanda Djaya, PT
I Wayan Gelgel Four Seasons Resort I Gusti Ngurah Arya Wibawa Sukanda Djaya, PT
Swee Leong (Bobby) Wong Four Seasons Resort I Made Manahara Sukanda Djaya, PT INDOGUNA Gold J&J SEAFOOD Bronze
Made Widana Four Seasons Resort Sally Suli Harta, UD
I Gusti Ketut Oka Four Seasons Resort Made Adi Wibawa Suli Harta, UD
Saptono Grand Hyatt Bali Helmin Dequelyu Suli Harta, UD
Wayan Widiana Grand Hyatt Bali I Wayan Sudiana The Bali Khama
Ernst Jaeck Grand Hyatt Bali Nigel Ames The Beach House
Sang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian Hotel Jacky Ames The Beach House
Ida Ayu Sutamaya Hocatsu Bali,PT I Made Putra The Laguna
David Tan
Anik Purwati
Leony Rossalia Hartono
Hocatsu Bali,PT
Hocatsu Bali,PT
Holidai Inn
I Made Linggi
Nyoman Wijana
Ridwan
The Laguna
The Laguna
The Laguna
Next BCP Lunch
Philip Parfait Ekoto Mimbima Hu’u Bali Aprin Sukarno Putra The Laguna
Rositha Wardhani Ikan Segar Bali Ida Bagus Partama The Laguna Venue : Hotel Padma Bali
Arie Sumartini Ikan Segar Bali Andreas Krampl The Ritz-Carlton Address : Jl. Padma 1 Legian, Bali
Bill Marinelli Ikan Segar Bali Dean Keddel The Ritz-Carlton
Helmut Walter Schafer Illy Coffee Ron Pietruszka The Ritz-Carlton Osaka Day/date : Saturday, 28 June 2009
Pramudya Bevan Illy Coffee I Made Lugra The Samaya Time : 12.30
Sarita Sanowi Indoguna Bali Michael Shaheen The Samaya
I Nyoman Parwata Indoguna Bali Ray Clark The Samaya
Ayu Catur Wati Indoguna Bali I Wayan Semudra The Samaya
John Reese Intercontinental Markus Krickelberg The Westin
Rene Oskam Intercontinental Shirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Niniek TS Inti Kulit Ni Made Kariani Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Edward Kwon Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Budhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Gian Luigi Gerosa Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Puri Danandari Prodjo Unilever Food Solutions
Felix Schmid Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Kristini Sutirta Unilever Food Solutions
Dale Schnell Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Andi Ayu Purnama Unilever Food Solutions
Laurent Varachaud Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Claire Quinn Villa Coco
I Ketut Sudana Kayu Manis Nusa Dua Kevin Sinclair Watergarden Hotel
Wayan Merta Astawa Kayu Manis Nusa Dua Made Witha Witha Bakery

36 TASTE | May - June 2009

 chefs day-out

David & Dimpy

Proving he is more than a pretty face, and a talented chef with scratch, timing the various meats and
finishing the roast vegetable selection (just
impressive experience, Alam Boga’s, David Smith, stepped in like Mum’s!) as well as manning the carvery
to help fellow BCP Members, Nigel and Jackie Ames as they himself at night.

prepared for the opening of their new Scallywags Restaurant Of course, it isn’t all work in Gili Trawangan
and Hotel in Gili Trawangan. and David found time to surf, swim and
check out the night life as well.
With less than a week before opening, “Hey”, he said, “these guys are mates, and
scheduled for March 26, the owners found good customers. I just came to lend a hand,” Other friends also came to help, with Marco
themselves without an executive chef and he said. de Leonardis (Dr Rocket) taking his turn in
much work to be done to get their new the kitchen to show the staff how to make
kitchen ready. The new restaurant is beside the former one, hand formed pasta, while Taste consultant
which is still operating, so in effect the size Sarah Dougherty took some holiday time
“I came in to help them set up their systems, of the restaurant is now doubled. The couple out to introduce new desserts.
get their ordering and budgeting on line and their partners Made and Anna Ramlie,
and introduced a carvery to their existing who also own Echo Beach in Canggu, During one of the island’s busiest periods,
menu,” says David. already feature a seafood and meat barbecue the Nyepi holiday for Bali, the new ten
at night, in addition to a large menu that room resort and the bar and restaurant
Working with Scallywags head cook, Dimpy, features mains, burgers, salads and tapas. operated at capacity and friends and
a kitchen professional, David offered to help strangers alike kept the party atmosphere in
with the installation of the new equipment “There was a quiet area at one end of the full swing. There is little doubt that David
as well as going through some basic kitchen new restaurant so I introduced a carvery won’t be quitting his day job to relocate to
skills with the chefs. there to attract guests to the other end of the Gili T, but there are plenty of worse places
property. As Villa Ombak is next door and to hang your chefs hat.
Formerly a chef himself, with experience The Beach House on the other side, there is
at The Regent in Sydney and time spent a lot of traffic here and the carvery is another
working under the legendary chef, Serge reason for customers to stop,” he says.
Dansereau at Sydney’s famous Bather’s www. scally wags resort .com
Pavilion, before coming to Indonesia and It worked a treat and had David in the Tel: (0370) 645301 (reception)
joining the Papa’s group, David brought kitchen by day, teaching the staff how to Fax: (0361) 631945
considerable experience to the job. make a delicious home-style gravy from South Beach - Gili Trawangan, Lombok

38 TASTE | May - June 2009