A

THREAD
OF
TRUTH
A factual
look at
sewing
thread

YLI Corporation
1-800-296-8139 • www.ylicorp.com
 a reverse twist, the thread cannot be controlled during
A Thread of Truth sewing. The individual yarns or plies would separate
A factual look at sewing thread as they pass through the needle and the tensions
discs of the sewing machine.
In the world of sewing, specifically home sewing,
nothing is as misunderstood as thread. The vast Twist
array of fibers alone is enough to be confusing to the Twist is simply the number of turns per cm or inch
average home sewer, add to that sizing, S-twist vs. put in the thread. A thread with too little twist may
Z-twist, spun vs. filament and it is enough to baffle fray and break, one with too much twist can cause
even the most knowledgeable "expert". The purpose snarling, looping and knotting. Balance is the key
of this booklet is simply to provide the factual infor- and a good sewing thread has it.
mation you need to make informed choices.
Twist Direction
COMMON TYPES OF THREAD As threads pass through a sewing machine some
Raw Materials additional twist may be added. For this reason the
direction in which the thread is twisted becomes
The earliest sewing threads were made from either
important. A thread with a Z-twist, or left twist, is
animal or vegetable products and while most of
engineered specifically for the sewing machine. The
these natural fiber threads are still very popular,
action of the sewing process tends to increase the
threads made from man-made or synthetic fiber
twist of a Z-twisted thread, but can actually untwist
have become increasingly popular in recent years.
a thread with S-twist, or right twist.
NATURAL FIBERS
• Animal - wool, silk, hair “Z” twist “S” twist
• Vegetable - cotton, flax, jute for ply for single
yarn strand yarn
REGENERATED
• Cellulose - rayon, acetate

MAN-MADE
• Mineral - glass, metallic Ply
• Synthetic - polyester, nylon, acrylic, elastic, The number of component yarns that are twisted
polypropylene together to produce a thread is the ply. Two-ply
threads, therefore, are simply two yarns which have
been twisted together.
HOW IS THREAD MADE?
All sewing threads begin as simple yarns. Twisting
together short fibers or continuous filaments pro-
Thread finishing
After construction, the thread is finished to
duces these yarns. This process known as “singling
enhance its suitability for various sewing uses.
twist” is responsible for the strength and flexibility,
• SOFT - No further processing to change its
which is essential in any good sewing thread. When
physical characteristics. It is only dyed and
two or more yarns are combined to make the thread,
lubricated.
a “reverse twist” is applied to add balance. Without
1 2
• MERCERIZED - In this process cotton thread is and performance of the thread produced. As a general
treated in a caustic solution under controlled rule of thumb, the longer the staple length of the
tension. This causes the fibers to swell, resulting fibers, the better the quality of thread produced. YLI
in a greater affinity for dyeing. Mercerization Quilting threads and Mettler's cotton threads are
also increases the luster and adds some strength. examples of cotton threads produced with long staple
• GASSED - Passing cotton thread through a cotton. The highest quality spun polyester, such as
flame at high speed to reduce the fuzz is known Mettler® and Gutterman® are produced from longer
as gassing. This process also produces a higher staple fibers.
sheen.
• GLAZED - This is a process in which cotton Spun threads will have a more “fuzzy” surface,
threads are treated with starches and special which gives them a soft hand and good lubricity
chemicals under controlled heat and then polished characteristics. They offer excellent sewing
to a high luster. The glazed process results in a performance, but lack the strength of continuous
thread with a hard finish that protects the filament threads.
thread from abrasion and enhances ply security.
• BONDED - Treating continuous filament nylon Core Spun Threads
or polyester with a special resin that encapsulates This process seeks to achieve the strength of
the filaments is called bonding. The result is a continuous filament threads with the sewing per-
tough smooth coating that adds significantly to formance of spun thread. Core spun thread features
the thread's ability to resist abrasion and greatly a continuous filament polyester core covered with
enhances ply security. cotton or polyester fibers. Two or more of these
composite yarns are then twisted to form the thread.
THREAD TYPES The most common examples are Dual Duty® and
Spun Threads Signature®.
Throughout most of the twentieth century, cotton
thread was the standard sewing thread both indus- Continuous Filament Threads
trially and in the home. When synthetics were This process begins by extruding individual filaments
developed, it was only natural to attempt to emulate of synthetic material. A singling twist is applied to
the sewing characteristics of cotton. Spun polyester these unbroken, continuous fibers. They are then
thread, made from polyester fibers cut to the same brought together and a finishing twist is applied.
length as cotton staple, was introduced as a substi- The result is a strong, consistent sewing thread. The
tute for cotton. All spun threads are made up from most common examples are most rayon and polyester
staple fibers that are spun into single yarns and then embroidery threads and YLI’s Ultrasheen®.
plied to make a sewing thread. Mettler’s all-purpose
polyester, Maxi-Lock®, Elite Premium Serger Thread®, Textured Threads
Gutterman® and all cotton threads are examples of This process adds texture to the parallel continuous
spun thread. filaments of synthetic yarns, creating softness and bulk.
The textured filaments are then twisted slightly and heat
Twisting together yarns made from short fibers, as set. These threads provide excellent coverage for
we learned earlier, produces all spun threads. seams and rolled edges. Textured threads are typically
However the staple lengths of the fibers utilized can used in the loopers of a serger or over locker. Woolly
have an important effect on the quality, strength, Nylon® is the best example of textured thread.
3 4
Monofilament Thread SIZING SYSTEMS
This is a single synthetic filament extruded to a specific
diameter. They are available in a number of sizes, All threads can be produced in different thicknesses
.004 and .005 being the most popular for the home and the "size" of a particular thread is the relation-
ship of its length to its weight. This relationship of
sewer. Wonder Invisible Thread® and Sulky’s® invis-
length to weight is known as linear density, yarn
ible thread are good examples.
count, or size. There are many sizing systems used,
but they generally fall into two classifications:
THREAD SIZING
There is a great deal of confusion and misinformation Fixed Weight
These systems use the length of yarn that make up
regarding the size of sewing thread and how we
a given weight.
communicate size to one another. Over the years no
clear standard has evolved that is universal in the NEc (Cotton Count) - For Spun Threads - This
home sewing market. Our intent here is to give you is the number of hanks (840 yds.) of yarn it takes to
universal standards by which you can compare
equal 1 pound.
thread sizes from one manufacturer to another, spun
• A cotton count of “1” means 840 yards of yarn
polyester to filament silk, or even cotton to rayon.
weigh 1 pound.
• A cotton count of “2” means 1680 yards (840x2)
Common Thread Sizing Standards weigh 1 pound.
In the industrial sewing thread market, the Cotton
EXAMPLE: If you had a single strand of yarn 840
Count System (NEc) has been the accepted standard
utilized in sizing spun threads and the Denier yards long weighing one pound, its count (or size)
would be shown as 1/1. This simply means it had a
System(Td) has been the accepted standard for fila-
count of one (the first number) and that it was a
ment threads. Over the last several years there has
single strand of yard (the second number).
been a great deal of support to adopt an universal
standard under which all sewing threads can be If you then twisted two of those single strands
sized and will be understood world wide regardless together, the size would then be 1/2: One count
of the thread’s construction. The TEX System is yarn (the first number), in a two ply construction
that standard for industrial sewing thread. (the second number).

The TEX system will be used as the standard in this Equivalent Size - The same size thread can be
booklet. Once you understand how the various constructed using different count yarns by varying
standards, (such as cotton count, or denier) relate the number of plies. All the following threads are
to TEX, you will be able to relate the thread one physically the same size.
manufacturer calls a number 50 to a 40/3 ply from • 30/2
another. • 45/3
• 60/4
Until the TEX system, or some other standard, is To determine the equivalent size, simply divide the
adopted for home sewing thread, confusion will yarn count by the number of plies. All three of these
exist. However, we hope the information here will threads have the equivalent size of 15.
help.
IN FIXED WEIGHT SYSTEMS, THE HIGHER
THE NUMBER - THE FINER THE YARN.
5 6
Fixed Length THE TEX SYSTEM
These systems use the weight of a given length. As we indicated earlier, the Tex system will be
Td (Denier count) - For Continious Filament used in this brochure as the standard sizing system.
Threads - This is the weight in grams per 9,000 It was chosen for two reasons: first, because metric
meters. designations are used worldwide, and Tex is a metric
system. Second, since Tex is a direct numbering system,
Tex (TEX ) - This is the weight in grams of 1,000 logical size numbers are assigned... the finer the
meters. (1 Tex = 1 gram per 1,000 meters) thread, the smaller the size number assigned, and
IN FIXED LENGTH SYSTEMS, THE HIGHER the coarser the thread, the larger the number.
THE NUMBER - THE THICKER THE YARN. In order to reduce the sheer volume of sizing
numbers that could be assigned, the Tex sizes are
bracketed. All sizes falling into a particular bracket
THREAD WEIGHT receive the same Tex number. The number assigned
Another popular size measurement system, particu- is always the smaller bracket number. For example a
larly in embroidery thread is “Thread Weight”. Tex 42 thread would be labeled a Tex 40 thread.
Since most embroidery thread is a two-ply con- The following chart details the brackets that make
struction it is generally believed that “Thread up the Tex system.
Weight” equals the count number (the first num- Tex # [10.0 - 11.9] = Tex 10 Tex # [35.0 - 39.9] = Tex 35
ber) as in the Cotton Count System. Tex # [12.0 - 15.9] = Tex 12 Tex # [40.0 - 49.9] = Tex 40
Tex # [16.0 - 17.9] = Tex 16 Tex # [50.0 - 59.9] = Tex 50
• 40/2 = 40 count, 2 ply = 40wt.
Tex # [18.0 - 20.9] = Tex 18 Tex # [61.0 - 79.9] = Tex 60
• 30/2 = 30 count, 2 ply = 30wt.
Tex # [21.0 - 23.9] = Tex 21 Tex # [80.0 - 89.9] = Tex 80
Unfortunately, this only works for two-ply threads. Tex # [24.0 - 26.9] = Tex 24 Tex # [90.0 - 104.9] = Tex 90
For example, a 40/3 quilting thread is not a 40wt. Tex # [27.0 - 34.9] = Tex 27
thread.
40/3 Cotton Thread Size Comparison
40 ÷ 3= 13.33 equivalent In order to make comparisons as understandable as
The same size in a two-ply thread would be 26.67 or possible, the following chart breaks thread into
a 26.67 weight. three major classifications:
Heavy weight threads: Tex 40 - Tex 90
Filament embroidery threads (i.e.: rayon and poly- Medium weight threads: Tex 27 - Tex 35
ester) are typically measured in denier, so to deter- Light weight threads: Tex 10 - Tex 24
mine “Thread Weight” the denier size of the thread The threads used in the following chart are only
must be converted to cotton count. examples to help you establish a basis of under-
Cotton Count = 5315 ÷ denier standing. All you need to know is the cotton count
120 denier two-ply rayon embroidery thread = or denier to convert any thread size to Tex.
44.29 cotton count = 40wt.
150 denier two-ply rayon embroidery thread = To convert cotton count to TEX
35.43 cotton count = 35wt. Divide the cotton count (the equivalent size)
180 denier two-ply rayon embroidery thread =
29.53 cotton count = 30wt.
into 590.5
(
590.5
c.c )
The Tex System is designed to overcome much of To convert denier to TEX multiply denier by .1111
this confusion and inconsistencies. (d x 0.1111)
7 8
Heavy Weight Threads
Thread type Cotton Denier Tex Tex
Count Number Size

YLI Jeans Stitch 18/3 98 90

YLI Silk # 30 567 63 60
YLI Colours 30/3 59 50
YLI Quilting 40/3 44 40
Mettler Quilting 40/3 44 40
Gutterman Quilting 40/3 44 40
Signature Cotton
Quilting 40/3 44 40
Sulky #30 rayon 360 40 40

Medium Weight Threads

Thread type Cotton Denier Tex Tex
Count Number Size

Mettler, all purpose poly 50/3 35 35 SEWING NEEDLES

Gutterman, all purpose poly 50/3 318 35 35
You may wonder what a section on needles is doing
Coats Dual Duty, poly/cotton 35/2 300 33 27
in a brochure about thread, but the relationship
YLI Silk #50 243 27 27 between needle and thread is crucial to successful
YLI Select, cotton 40/2 31 27 sewing or quilting. As important as it is to select the
Finishing Touch, #35 rayon 300 33 27 proper needle for the fabric, it is equally important
Elite 60/3 29 27 to select the proper needle for the thread you are
Maxi-Lock 42/2 28 27 using. Very often thread breakage, skipped stitches
or other "thread" problems are the result of damaged
Light Weight Threads or improper needle selection.
Thread type Cotton Denier Tex Tex
Count Number Size Selecting the proper machine needle
Proper needle selection is determined by two key
Sulky rayon #40 240 26 24 factors: 1) the thread to be used and 2) the fabric to
R&A,rayon #40 240 26 24 be sewn or quilted.
Mettler PolySheen 240 26 24
Woolly Nylon 220 24 24 • Select the thread to match the fabric or the
Mettler cotton 60/2 19 18 project
YLI Heirloom 70/2 16 16 • Next, select the needle type best suited for the
Madeira cotton 80/2 14 12 fabric used
YLI Heirloom 100/2 11 10 • Finally, select the needle size to match the
YLI Silk #100 124 12 12 thread. The thread must lay in the front groove
without sitting on top or wobbling in the groove.
9 10
 The eye must be large enough for the thread to great choice for getting perfectly straight stitches.
pass through with minimal friction in order to Sizes range from 70/10 to 110/18.
create a perfect stitch. • Jersey / Ballpoint - This needle is designed to
• Always start with a new needle be used on knits. Its rounded point slips between
the fibers rather than cutting them. From 70/10
Machine Needles to 120/18.
Parts of Machine Needles (Illustration Previous Page) • Stretch - This needle has a slightly more rounded
• Point - One of the main differences between point than a universal needle. There is a tiny
needles is the type of point. The point type is hump between the eye and scarf that allows the
the most important consideration in regards to thread to make a large loop on one side of the
the fabric you will be using. needle. This loop makes it easy to complete a
• Eye - The eye is the hole through which the stitch. They come in sizes 75/11 or 90/14.
thread passes and is therefore extremely important • Quilting - These needles have a thin, tapered
to thread selection. deep point, which is good for sewing multiple
• Shank - This is the part that is inserted into the layers. They come in sizes 75/11 or 90/14.
machine. • Microtex - With a thin shaft, and a slim, sharp
• Shaft - The body of the needle itself or how point, these needles are the right choice for
thick the needle is. lightweight fabrics, delicate wovens and any
• Scarf - This is the indentation in the back of heirloom sewing. Sizes range from 60/8 to
the needle. Important because this is where the 100/16.
stitch is formed. When the bobbin shuttle • Topstitch - This extra sharp needle is less
swings into the scarf it hooks into the looped rounded than the universal. The eye is twice as
needle thread to form the stitch. long and the front grove is deeper. This is a good
• Front Groove - The front groove allows the choice when using heavier threads without
needle thread to lay close to the needle as it piercing large holes in the fabric. Sizes 70/10 to
travels down the needle towards the bobbin. 100/16.
The deep groove of some needles helps protect • Embroidery - Designed to work with embroidery
the thread from friction created when the nee- threads, this needle has a large eye and a special
dle pierces the fabric. If the needle is too fine for scarf that protects more fragile threads. Sizes
the thread being used, stitch faults may occur. range from 75/11 to 90/14.
• Metallica - These needles are designed specifically
Machine needles range in size from 60/8 (very for metallic and flat decorative threads. The eye
fine) to 120/19 (heavy duty). The higher number is double sized and Teflon coated, the front
relates to the needle's shaft diameter in metric, the groove is deep and the scarf is longer. Sizes
lower number to a U.S. system, which also relates to 80/12 or 90/14.
shaft diameter.
• Universal - A general-purpose needle that can
be used on woven fabrics as well as knits. They
come in 60/8 to 120/18.
• Jeans / Denim - Designed for densely woven
and heavily finished fabrics. It features a very
stiff shaft, sharp point and slender eye. It is a
11 12
Thread/Machine Needle Chart • Crewel - These have a sharp point with a long
Spun Thread Tex Needle Selection narrow eye. They are used with embroidery
70/2 ply Tex 16 Universal 70/10, Embroidery 75/11, floss, silk ribbon and heavier fabrics. Size 1 to
Microtex 70/10 10.
60/2 ply Tex 18 Universal 70/10, Embroidery 75/11, • Darning - These are large needles with very
Microtex 70/11 large eyes. Wool darners are used when working
50/3 ply Tex 35 Universal 70/10 - 80/12, Jeans 80/12, with heavy fibers, wide ribbons and wool darning
Quilting 75/11 yarns. Sizes 14 to 19 for wool - 1 to 9 for cotton.
40/2 ply Tex 27 Universal 70/10 - 80/12, • Majestic 88 - These are English needles with a
Quilting 75/11
special coating allowing easy stitching through
40/3 ply Tex 40 Universal 80/12, Sharp 80/12,
Embroidery 90/14
cotton batting or difficult - to - needle fabrics.
30/2 ply Tex 35 Top Stitch 90/14, Embroidery 80/12, Sizes 9, 10, & 12.
Jeans 90/14 • Milliners - These are long, narrow needles with
30/3 ply Tex 50 Top Stitch 90/14, Quilting 90/14, a small round eye. They are used in Baltimore
Embroidery 90/14 Applique, as well as sewing beads and French
Jeans Stitch Tex 90 Denim 90/14, 100/16, knots. They range in size from 3 to 9.
Embroidery 90/14 • Betweens - These short, fine needles with large
eyes are most frequently associated with quilting,
Synthetic Thread Tex Needle Selection
but are also used for fine hand sewing. Sizes 3 to
Rayon # 40 Tex 24 Embroidery 75/11- 80/12 12.
Poly #40 Tex 24 Embroidery 75/11- 80/12 • Sharps - Fine, medium length needles most
Rayon/Poly #30 Tex 40 Embroidery 90/14 commonly used for hand sewing and are also
Metallic Tex 24 Metallica or Metafil 80/12,
used in fine hand embroidery. They range in size
Embroidery 90/14
from 5 to 12.
• Tapestry - These are stout needles with a long
Filament Silk Tex Needle Selection
eye and a blunt point. They are used for pulled
#100 Tex 12 Microtex 70/11, Embroidery 75/11 and drawn work and silk ribbon embroidery.
#50 Tex 27 Universal 80/12,
Sizes 13 to 28.
Embroidery 80/12 - 90/14
#30 Tex 60 Top Stitch 90/14, Embroidery 90/14
WHAT MAKES A GOOD THREAD?
This may seem like the $64,000 question, but in
Hand Sewing Needles general all good sewing threads have in common
Unlike machine needles, hand needle sizes are good sewability, good seam performance and in the
backwards: the higher the number the smaller the case of decorative threads, aesthetics. Several char-
diameter and the shorter the length. acteristics contribute to these attributes and are reg-
• Basting - This needle is curved to make basting ularly measured and monitored by most thread
and tying quilts easy. manufacturers.
• Beading - These are very long with a small eye. • Elongation - This is the amount a thread
They range in size from 10 to 15. stretches before it breaks. Threads with high
• Chenille / Silk Ribbon - With large eyes and elongation will give greater seam elasticity, but
sharp points these are often used for silk ribbon can cause poor loop formation leading to excessive
embroidery Sizes range from 18 to 24. skipped stitches and thread breakage. The elon-
13 14
 gation of a sewing thread is determined by fiber Thread breaks can be caused by a number of
type but can also be controlled by drawing and heat variables including:
setting of synthetics such as polyester and nylon. ◆ Using the wrong thread for the
Cotton thread has very little, if any, elongation. application
• Uniformity - Imperfections or defects in thread ◆ Incorrect needle or damaged needle
are thick and thin places that can cause sewing ◆ Thread defects
problems. The most common imperfections are: ◆ Too much elongation
knots, slubs, neps, dropped ply, dropped filament ◆ Being sewn with too much tension
and singles kinks. Obviously the fewer the better. ◆ Worn machine parts
• Ply Security - This is a thread's ability to stay ◆ Machine out of adjustment
together during the sewing process. The most ◆ Operator handling
common type of thread break is caused by a loss
of ply security. If the plies open up during the
sewing process they are much more susceptible
to breaking. COLORFASTNESS
• Lubricity - This is the frictional characteristic The ability of a thread to retain its color during
of thread as it passes through the sewing normal use is its colorfastness. There are several
machine and into the seam. The soft “fuzzy” variables that are measured.
characteristic of cotton thread and spun polyester • Wash Fastness - the ability to resist color
actually gives these threads greater lubricity and change after laundering.
better sewability than continuous filament • Crock Fastness - Refers to rubbing off of color.
threads. Crocking is checked both wet and dry.
• Strength - The amount of force required to • Sublimation - This relates to the loss of color
break a thread. This characteristic can be meas- due to heat. Certain dyes will change from a
ured several ways: Breaking Strength - force solid to gas when exposed to high heat and will
applied to each end of the thread until it breaks, redeposit elsewhere.
measured in pounds. Loop Strength - when one • Cold Water Migration - This refers to the
strand of thread is looped with another strand possibility of staining when light colored fabric
and then broken, also measured in pounds. is combined with stronger colored thread and
Tenacity - the breaking strength of a thread left wet for a period of time.
adjusted for thread size. Tenacity is measured in • Light Fastness - In this test, samples are exposed
grams/denier. for prolonged periods of time to daylight.
Thread made from continuous filaments are
generally stronger and have higher tenacity While synthetic threads are generally more color-
than threads made from staple fibers. fast than cotton or rayon, keep in mind some thread
• Twist - A thread with too little twist may fray types may be colorfast to some variables and only
and break, one with too much can cause moderately colorfast to others.
snarling, looping and knotting.

(NEXT PAGE)

15 16
 ALL THREAD IS
NOT CREATED EQUAL G L O S S A RY
Hopefully you now understand how thread is
made, the things to look for in a good quality
thread, how to compare the various sizes to one
universal standard, and the importance of the nee- Abrasion: The act or result of surface rubbing during
dle to sewing performance. Now, in order to effec- laundering or normal wear. Synthetic threads
tively compare one thread to another you need to have superior abrasion resistance to cellulose
ask the manufacturer for the appropriate informa- threads.
tion.
• Tex Size Acid Dyes: Dyes used to dye nylon threads. There
• Tenacity, Loop Strength, and/or Breaking are two classes of acid dyes that are used:
Stength premetalized and regular acid dyes.
• Color Fastness Premetalized dyes have superior colorfastness
• Raw Material - Spun or Filament Yarn characteristics but can produce a limited color
• Type of Finish range.
• Construction
Aesthetics: Refers to the appearance of the thread
We fully realize this may be more information in the finished seam that can be effected by
than you ever wanted to know about thread, but we contrast stitching, color matching, the sheen of
hope you will take what you need and use it to make the thread or the size of the thread.
informed decisions.

Backtacking: Refers to the reverse feed sewing at

Note: Research materials published by American & Efird, Coats
& Clark, Celenese, In Cahoots, and Threads Inc. were used in
the beginning and ending of the seam to prevent
writing this brochure. Every effort has been made to produce a non- the thread from unraveling.
biased, factual brochure. Any oversights or omissions are purely
accidental. Basting: Refers to temporary stitching to hold
pieces together until another operation is performed.

Bobbin: A bobbin is a small spindle that is insert-

ed into the hook of lockstitch sewing machines.
Sewing machine bobbins can be wound by the
sewer or pre-wound bobbins can be purchased.

Bonded Finish: Refers to a finish applied to

continuous filament nylon and polyester
threads which coats the fibers, giving the thread
better ply security and abrasion resistance.

17 18
Bottom Thread: Refers to the under thread in a Crocking: Refers to the rubbing off of color.
stitch formation, usually called a bobbin thread. Crocking is checked both dry and wet using
ASTM D-204 Test Method. Excessive crocking
can be caused by poor dye penetration of the
thread or a thread that has not been properly
scoured and has residual dye on the surface.

Cellulose Fiber: A fiber made from plants or a

wood pulp by-product. Cellulose fibers include
cotton and rayon. These fibers have similar Decorative Stitching: The sewing of thread to
physical properties in that they have a relatively accent a pocket, collar, or some other part of the
low tenacity, a low elongation, and good heat garment. Usually, this thread is a different color
resistance. They are not as durable to abrasion, than the body fabric.
laundering, and chemicals as polyester or nylon
fibers. Defect: Refers to a quality imperfection found in
the thread. Thread defects include: slubs,
Colorfastness: The ability of the thread to retain knots, neps, slack twists, corkscrew twists, and
its color during normal use, laundering, and/or single kinks.
when exposed to sunlight. Colorfastness vari-
ables include wash fastness, crock fastness, subli- Denier: Refers to a sizing system used for continu-
mation, cold-water migration and light fastness. ous filaments. Denier is the gram weight of
Some thread types are relatively fast to some 9000 meters of sewing thread. Denier is 9 times
variables and only moderately fast to others. the Tex Size.

Continuous Filament: Refers to synthetic fibers of

an indefinite length. Fibers used to manufacture
sewing threads are either continuous filament or
staple. Continuous filament nylon, polyester, Elasticity: Refers to how much a seam will stretch
and rayon can be used to make various thread before the thread ruptures or “cracks”. Usually,
constructions. The five thread constructions threads with higher elongation will give greater
produced from continuous filaments include seam elasticity. Also, stitch formations that use
monofilament, twisted multifilament, mono- more thread will have greater seam elasticity
cord, textured, and air entangled. Core spun like over-edge and coverstitch seam constructions.
threads use a combination of continuous filament The number of stitches per inch and the stitch
polyester core and a staple cotton or polyester balance can also effect seam elasticity.
wrapper. The sizing system for continuous filaments
is the denier system. Elongation: Refers to the amount that a thread
stretches before it breaks. Threads with high
Core or Core Spun Thread: A thread construction elongation provide greater seam elasticity but
made by wrapping a cotton or polyester staple can cause poor loop formation leading to excessive
wrapper around a continuous filament core of skipped stitches and thread breakage. The
polyester. Two or more of the core yarns are elongation of a sewing thread is determined by
then plied to make a core spun sewing thread.
19 20
 the fiber type used but can also be controlled by Flagging: Refers to a sewing problem caused by the
drawing and heat setting of synthetic sewing fabric moving up with the needle as the needle
threads like polyester and nylon. rises from the bottom of its travel causing poor
loop formation and leading to skipped stitches
Embroidery: The sewing of thread in a small area or thread breakage.
with numerous stitches. If a high sheen is
desired, a filament rayon, tri-lobal polyester, or Fluff Threads: Refers to texturized polyester or
acrylic thread is recommended. If a high sheen is nylon threads. These threads provide excellent
not necessary, cotton, wool blends, etc. can be used. seam coverage when sewn in serger or overlock
machines.

Fadeometer: A lab-testing machine used to test

long-term effects of light on sewing thread color Gassing: Refers to a finishing process where 100%
and strength. cotton thread is passed through a flame at high
speed to reduce its fuzz and give it a greater
Finishes: Refers to various treatments of cotton sheen.
threads including soft, mercerized, and glazed.
"Soft" refers to thread that is simply spun or Glaze Finish: Refers to a finish put on 100% cot-
twisted and then dyed and wound on a cone. ton threads made from starches, waxes or other
"Mercerized" refers to the process where cotton additives. This coating is then brushed to give
is submerged in a caustic soda bath under tension the thread a smooth surface. A glaze finish protects
and then neutralized in an acid bath. The end the thread during sewing giving better ply security
result is a greater affinity for dyes and a higher and abrasion resistance.
tenacity thread. “Glazed” is a process whereby
cotton threads are passed through a solution of Greige Yarn: Refers to thread before it has been
starches and/or waxes and then polished finished with dye, lube, or other finishes.
between brushes to give a very uniform surface.
Continuous filament threads are also available
in various finishes including "soft" and "bonded".
"Soft" again refers to thread that is simply twisted Hue: The characteristic of color described by the
together, dyed and wound on cones with a terms red, blue, yellow and green, etc. (White,
thread lubricant. “Bonded” refers to an gray, and black have no hues and are referred to
additional process where a coating is put on the as neutrals.)
continuous filament thread to give it better ply
security and abrasion resistance. Finish also
refers to the thread lubricant applied to the
thread to give the thread good lubricity
characteristics and needle heat resistance. King Spool: A thread cone that has a vertical tube
Two methods are commonly used to apply finish with a horizontal base.
to sewing threads: the "kiss-roll" method and
the "in-bath" method. Knots: Used to join ends of yarn or thread together.
21 22
 Most textile companies use "weavers" knots, or
air splices. Most knots will cause the thread to
break but most air splices will sew through the
needle without breaking. Mercerizing: Refers to a process where 100% cotton
thread is treated under tension in a solution of
caustic soda, which removes some of the sugars and
makes the cotton fibers more uniform. This allows
the fibers to accept dyes more readily, enhances lus-
ter and increases the thread strength or tenacity.
Lockstitch (301 Stitch): A stitch that is formed Mercerization was originally done to make 100%
with a needle thread and a bobbin thread that is cotton threads look more like silk threads.
inter-locked in the center of the seam being
sewn. Even though the same amounts of needle Monofilament Thread Construction: Refers to a
and bobbin thread are consumed, the needle thread construction produced from a single con-
thread requires 5 to 7 times more tension than tinuous filament. Usually, monofilament threads
the bobbin thread. Some of the advantages of are used because the thread is translucent and
using a lockstitch in a seam include: the stitch blends in with many colors.
is reversible, produces the tightest of all seams,
and uses the least amount of thread. Multifilament Thread Construction: Refers to a
thread construction produced from continuous
Loop Strength: The strength when one strand of filaments of polyester or nylon, which are twisted
thread is looped with another strand and then together into a cohesive bundle and then plied
broken. This strength test gives an indication to make the thread. They are then dyed,
of the brittleness of the fiber being tested. Most stretched, and heat set to achieve the desired
polyester sewing threads will have loop strength physical characteristics.
of approximately 1.5 times the single-end
breaking strength.

Looper: A stitch-forming device used on sergers or Natural Fibers: Fibers whose origin is from plants
overlock sewing machines to form a stitch. or animals. The most common natural fibers
used for sewing thread include cotton and
Looper Thread: Refers to the bottom thread used rayon. Other natural fibers that are used for
on a serger or over-lock machine, and the seaming include silk, wool, linen, and jute.
threads that cover the edge of an over-edge
seam. Looper threads feed directly off the cone Needle: The primary stitch-forming device used on
into the sewing machine eliminating bobbin all sewing machines to carry thread through a
changes. seam. Needles have nine parts including butt,
shank, shoulder, blade, groove, scarf, eye, point,
Lubricity: Refers to the frictional characteristics of and tip. Needles come in a variety of types and
thread as it passes through the sewing machine and sizes depending on the type of sewing machines
into the seam. Good lubricity characteristics will and the sewing application.
minimize thread breakage and enhance sew ability.
23 24
Needle Size: Refers to the diameter of the needle more thread can be wound by precision winding
measured at the needle eye. Today the most equipment than by a sewing operator using a
common needle sizing system used around the sewing machine bobbin winder.
world is the metric system. The metric number
represents the percent of a millimeter. Puckering: Refers to the wrinkled appearance of a
Common needle size application: seam, which can be caused by a number of factors
including: 1) Structural jamming, 2) Tension
Light weight, 60 - 70 puckering, and 3) Feed puckering.
Medium weight, 75 - 110
Heavy weight, 100 - 120 Put-Up: Refers to the type, size, and yardage of the
cone, king-tube or tube upon which thread is
wound.

Ply or Plies: Refers to the number of singles yarns

twisted together to make a sewing thread. Most Rayon: Refers to a regenerated cellulose fiber similar
core and spun sewing threads have either two or to cotton in its physical characteristics. Rayon
three ply constructions. The ply twist is nor- is primarily used today for embroidery applications.
mally a "Z" or left twist compared to an “S” or
right twist in the singles yarns.

Ply Security or Ply Adhesion: Refers to a sewing

thread's ability to stay together during the Seam: According to Federal Spec 751a entitled
sewing process. The most common type of "Stitches, Seams & Stitching", a seam is a series
thread break is caused by a loss of ply security. of stitches used to join two or more plies of fabric
When the plies open up during the sewing together.
process they are much more susceptible to
breaking and causing an unraveled type of Seam Failure: Caused by either fabric failure or
thread break. thread failure.

Polyester: A synthetic fiber made from a chemical Seam Strength: A measurement of the load
composition of diethyl terephthalate and ethyl- required to rupture a seam. Wovens are tested
ene glycol. The polyester is melted, extruded using a "jaws" method and knits are tested using
through a spinneret, and drawn. It can be dif- a "ball-burst" test method. The five major
ferent tenacities and be fully oriented (FOY) or contributors to seam strength include: 1) Fabric
partially oriented (POY) depending on how it is type and weight; 2) Thread type and size; 3)
processed. Usually, sewing threads are made stitch and seam construction; 4) Stitches per
from FOY fibers. (Fiber brands: Dacron®, inch; and 5) Stitch balance.
Trevira®, Fortrel®, Kodel®)
S.E.B. (Single-End Break): Refers to the single-
Pre-Wound Bobbins: Refers to bobbins that are end breaking strength of the thread or tensile
wound by the thread supplier. From 15 to 20% strength when stress is applied across a single
25 26
 strand of thread until it ruptures. S.E.B. is usually Skipped Stitches: Refers to malformed stitches that
measured in pounds, ounces, or grams. are caused when a stitch-forming device misses
its appropriate loop. On chain stitch and over-
Selvedge: Refers to the edge of woven fabrics running edge machines, skipped stitches can unravel
along the warp direction of woven fabrics that allowing the seam to fail.
will not unravel.
Slack Twist: Refers to a yarn imperfection where
Sewability: Ability to sew without skipped stitches insufficient twist is applied to the thread so it
or having the thread break. Several factors has very poor ply security.
effect sew ability: improper needle size, wrong
thread size, excessive tension, needle heat, worn Slubs: Refers to yarn imperfections found in spun
or defective sewing machine parts, and improp- or core-spun threads that resemble cocoons.
er machine settings. Thread likewise plays a They are caused by fibers in the air getting
key role in sew ability. Factors in thread sew caught into the yarn as it is being spun.
ability include elongation, uniformity, ply securi-
ty, lubrication, strength, and twist construction. Soft Finish: Refers to thread that receives no fur-
ther processing to change its general physical
Shade Matching: Refers to the selection of a thread characteristics. It is dyed to the proper shade
color that is close to the fabric color it is being and wound with a thread lubricant on a cone.
sewn into but not necessarily a color match.
Spinneret: A showerhead looking device used in
Shrinkage: Refers to the dimensional stability of a the melt-spinning process for making polyester
thread when it is subjected to boiling water or or nylon that helps determine the size of the fil-
heat. ASTM Test Method D204 describes the aments.
standard test procedures for sewing thread using
either the boiling water (BW) or dry heat (DH) Spinning: The process used to produce singles
method. Dry heat shrinkage at 350˚F is more yarns where staple fibers are drafted down to
severe than boiling water shrinkage. During their final size and twisted together. Most singles
this test, the thread is subjected to 350˚F for 30 yarns are twisted in the “S” direction.
minutes with a weight-attached equal to one
gram per Tex Size. Spun Thread Construction: Thread made from
cotton or polyester staple fibers that are spun
Singles Equivalent Size: Refers to the yarn size into single yarns and then two or more of these
divided by the number of ply. (Example: 40/2 yarns are plied to make a sewing thread. Spun
yarn has a 20 equivalent size, 60/3 yarn has a 20 threads have a fibrous surface giving them a soft
equivalent size.) hand and good lubricity characteristics.

Singles Yarn: Refers to the individual yarn that is Spun Polyester: Refers to a thermoplastic thread
spun prior to twisting. Most threads are made by made from staple polyester fibers, which are spun
taking two or more singles yarns and twisting into singles yarns and then plied into a thread.
them together.

27 28
Staple: Small fibers or various lengths, with crimp
in them, used to spin yarn or sewing thread.
When twisted together, the crimp locks the
fibers together increasing the strength of the Tenacity: A term relating to the strength per size of
thread. Spun threads have the following a thread and is generally measured in grams per
characteristics: 1) Fibrous or fuzzy surface denier. Threads made from continuous filament
contributing to a soft hand, low sheen and good fibers are stronger and have a higher tenacity
lubricity characteristics; 2) Lower tenacity than than threads made from staple fibers.
continuous filament constructions.
Tex Size: Refers to a sizing system of sewing thread
Stitches Per Inch: Refers to the number of the that is based on the gram weight of 1000 meters
stitches made in one inch of seam, starting at a of greige (undyed) thread. Tex sizes are bracketed
needle penetration and measuring the lengths or rounded off to a smaller size. (Example: a
of thread between needle penetrations. Tex 42 thread would be labeled a Tex 40
thread.) The Tex size is 1/9 the denier size.
Stitching: According to Federal Spec 741a entitled
“Stitches, Seams & Stitching”, a stitching con- Textured Thread Construction: Refers to threads
sists of a series of stitches used to decorative that have been textured to entangle the parallel
stitch or hem a single ply of fabric. continuous filaments. The textured filaments
are then twisted slightly and wound on dye
Stitch Balance: Refers to the balancing of the tubes for dyeing. After the thread is dyed, it is
sewing machine tension systems so that a proper then wound on cones with a low friction thread
stitch is formed. Generally, it is desirable to lubricant. Textured or "fluff" threads provide
balance the stitch with minimum sewing excellent seam overedge when used on a serger
machine thread tension. or over-lock machine.

Sublimation: A term relating to the loss or migration Thread Size: Many different thread size systems are
of color due to heat. Certain dyes when used in the world for sewing threads. Generally,
exposed to high heat will change from a solid to the thread size refers to the diameter or thickness
a gas and then redeposit somewhere else. of the thread. The Tex Size system can be used
universally for all of its thread products. Other
Synthetic Fibers: They are made from various thread size systems used include the Cotton
chemicals or regenerated from cellulose such as Count System; the Metric System, the Denier
wood pulp and cotton waste. Examples are System and the Silk System used for both Silk
polyester and nylon, which are synthesized from and Mercerized Cotton threads.
petro-chemicals and then melt-spun into either
continuous filament or staple fibers. Torque: When twist is applied to thread, torque is
created. These torque forces are balanced by
using opposite twist in the singles and ply twist.
Heat setting the thread during dyeing or auto-
claving will also minimize the torque forces in
the thread. Excessive torque can cause the
thread to "French-knot" or kink excessively.
29 30
Twist: In thread construction, twist refers to the Weatherometer: A testing machine used to expose
number of turns around the axis. The direction thread to accelerated weathering conditions
of the twist can be an "S" or "Z" direction. Most and measure its effect on color fastness, strength
sewing threads are ply twisted with a "left" or and other physical characteristics.
"Z" twist. Generally, sewing threads are made
with a "Z" twist because most sewing machine
stitch forming devices enter the needle loop
from the right-hand side and this reduces the Yarn Imperfections: Refers to yarn defects that
unplying of the thread during sewing. usually either cause thick or thin places in the
thread that can cause sewing problems. Some
Twist Balance: The absence of torque in sewing of these yarn imperfections include: knots,
thread. See torque. slubs, neps, dropped ply, dropped filament, singles
kinks, etc.
Twist Per Inch (TPI): Refers to the turns per inch
used to spin the singles yarn and ply twist.
Usually the twist is determined by a twist multiple.
Constructing a thread with the right amount of NOTES:__________________________________
singles and ply twist enhances sew ability and
________________________________________
seam appearance.
________________________________________
Twisted Multifilament Thread Construction:
Thread made from continuous filaments of ________________________________________
polyester or nylon that are twisted together into
________________________________________
a cohesive bundle and then plied to make the
thread. ________________________________________

________________________________________

________________________________________
Ultraviolet Light (UV) Resistance: Refers to the
________________________________________
light rays that can effect the durability and color
fastness of a thread. Sometimes a UV inhibitor ________________________________________
is used to reduce the amount of harmful rays
absorbed by the thread. Some fibers react dif- ________________________________________
ferently if they are exposed under glass versus
________________________________________
direct sunlight.
________________________________________

________________________________________
Wash Fastness: The ability to resist color change
after laundering. ________________________________________

________________________________________
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