ISO Stitch Terminology Page 1 of 4

Stitch Drawing
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn
ISO 4915
Number
Common
Application Requirements Stitch Description

Single Thread Blindstitch



Stitch is not visible on the
Outside of Sewn Product
103
Blindstitch
Blindstitch
Hemming,
Felling, Making
Belt Loops
Specify
1) SPI 3 - 5 SPI
2) Non-skip or 2 to 1
skipped stitch
Stitch is formed with one needle thread that is
interlooped with itself on the top side. The thread
passes through the top ply and horizontally through
portions of the bottom ply without completely
penetrating its full depth.
Lockstitch - Most Common of All
Stitches



Bobbin Thread on Bottom
301
Lockstitch
Single Needle,
Straight Stitching,
Topstitching
Specify SPI.
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the
material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the
threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks
the same top & bottom.
Double Needle Lockstitch




Bobbin Thread on Bottom
301 2
Lockstitch
Double Ndl.
Topstitching
Specify SPI.
Stitch formed by 301 lockstitch machine with two
needles and two bobbins make two independent rows
of 301 lockstitch simultaneously.
Zig Zag Lockstitch





304
Zig Zag
Intimate Apparel,
Athletic wear,
Infantwear,
Exercisewear
Specify
1) SPI
2) Throw or width Zig-
Zag (1/8, 3/16, 1/4")
Stitch is formed with a needle and a bobbin that are
set in the center of the seam and form a symmetrical
zig-zag pattern. Also, used to identify bartacking and
lockstitch buttonsewing and buttonholing.
Chainstitch




Looper Thread on Bottom
401
Chainstitch
Single Needle
Chainstitch -
Mainseams on
Wovens
Specify SPI.
Stitch formed by 1-needle thread passing through the
material and interlooped with 1-looper thread and
pulled up to the underside of the seam.
2 Ndl.Chainstitch




Looper Thread on Bottom
401 2
Chainstitch
Double Needle
Seaming
Specify SPI.
Stitch formed by 401 chainstitch machine with two
needles and two loopers make two independent rows
of 401 chainstitch simultaneously.
2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch Looper Thread on Bottom
406
Bottom
Coverstitch
Hemming,
Attaching, Elastic,
Binding,
Coverseaming,
Making Belt
Loops
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(1/8, 3/16, 1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
3 Needle Bottom Coverstitch Looper Thread on Bottom
407
Bottom
Coverstitch
Attaching Elastic
to Men's & Boys
Knit Underwear
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(1/4")
2) SPI


Stitch formed by 3-needle threads passing through the
material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
is interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
ISO Stitch Terminology Page 2 of 4



Stitch Drawing
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn
ISO 4915
Number
Common
Application Requirements Stitch Description

2 Thread Overedge




Single " purl" on Edge
503
1 Ndl.
Serging &
Blindhemming
Specify
1) Width Bite (Ex.
1/8", 3/16", 1/4")
2) SPI.
Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread
with purl on edge of seam for serging or blindhemming
ONLY.
3 Thread Overedge




Common Overedge Stitch
504
1 Ndl.
Single Needle
Overedge
Seaming
Specify
1) Width Bite (Ex.
1/8", 3/16", 1/4")
2) SPI.
Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper threads
with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the
seam. For overedge seaming and serging.
3 Thread Overedge




Double " purl" on Edge
505
1 Ndl.
Dbl. Purl
Serging with
Double purl on
Edge
Specify
1) Width Bite (Ex.
1/8", 3/16", 1/4")
2) SPI.
Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper threads
with the looper threads forming a double purl on the
edge of the seam for serging ONLY.
Mock Safety Stitch




2 Needle Overedge
512
2 Ndl.

Seaming Stretch
Knits, Wovens
Specify SPI.

Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper
threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 512 right needle only enters the
upper looper loop. Stitch does NOT chain-off as well as
514 Stitch
2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge




2 Needle Overedge
514
2 Ndl.

Seaming Stretch
Knits, Wovens
Specify SPI.
Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper
threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 514 both needles enter the upper
looper loop. Preferred over 512 Stitch because it chains-
off better.
4 Thread Safetystitch
515
(401+503)
Safetystitch

Safetystitch
Seaming Wovens
& Knits
Specify
1) Needle spacing &
bite - Ex.: 1/8-
1/8", 3/16- 3/16"
3/16 1/4"
2) SPI

Combination stitch consisting of a single-needle
chainstitch (401) and a 2-thread Overedge stitch (503)
that are formed simultaneously. Uses less thread than a
516 stitch; however, many manufacturers prefer a 516
stitch.
5 Thread Safetystitch
516
(401+504)
Safetystitch

Safety Stitch
Seaming Wovens
& Knits
Specify
3) Needle spacing &
bite - Ex.: 1/8-
1/8", 3/16- 3/16"
3/16 1/4"
4) SPI

Combination stitch consisting of a single-needle
chainstitch (401) and a 3-thread Overedge stitch (504)
that are formed simultaneously.
ISO Stitch Terminology Page 3 of 4




Stitch Drawing
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn
ISO 4915
Number
Common
Application Requirements Stitch Description
2 Needle 4 Thread Coverstitch





602
Coverstitch
Binding A Shirts,
Infants Clothing,
etc.
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(Ex: 1/8", 3/16",
1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed with 2-needle threads, a top cover thread
and a bottom looper thread.
3 Needle 5 Thread Coverstitch





605
Coverstitch
Lap Seaming,
Coverseaming,
Binding on Knits
Specify
1) Needle spacing
(Ex: 1/4")
2) SPI
Stitch formed with 3-needle threads, a top cover thread
and a bottom looper thread.
4 Needle 6 Thread Coverstitch




Flatseamer/Flatlock
607
Flatseam
Coverstitch
Flat or Lap
Seaming Knit
Underwear,
Fleece, etc.


Specify SPI
Stitch formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover thread
and a bottom looper thread. Preferred over 606 stitch
because machines are easier to maintain.


BUTTONSEW, BUTTONHOLE, BARTACK

Stitch Appearance
ISO 4915
Number
Common
Application Requirements Stitch Description

Lockstitch Buttonsew,
Buttonhole or Bartack







Single Thread Chainstitch
Buttonsew




* 304 Lockstitch is
preferred when stitch
security is a Must.






101 chainstitch Buttonsew
with single thread



304
Lockstitch




101
Chainstitch

Buttonsew

Buttonhole

Bartack
1) Buttonsew -
specify stitches
per cycle (Ex.
8,16, 32)

2) BH - specify length
& width (1/2, 3/4",
1 )

3) Bartack specify
the length & width
of the tack


Buttonsewing can be done with either a single thread
buttonsewer or a lockstitch buttonsewer. Because
single thread sewn buttons can unravel if the stitch is
not locked properly, lockstitch sewn buttons is often
preferred. 2 hole buttons are usually sewn with 6 or 8
stitches. 4 hole buttons are normally sewn with 12 or
16 stitches.

Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is
placed horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches.

Most common bartack machines sew tacks with 28
stitches. Usually this includes running stitches that are
then overlayed with cross-over stitches.
ISO Stitch Terminology Page 4 of 4