Texile Testing

TEXILE TESTING
Why we need Testing?

Research
Selection of Raw Materials
Process Control
Process Development
Product Testing
Specification Tests
Testing Standards
ASTM- American Society for Testing Materials

AATCC- American Association of Textile Colourists
and Chemists
BS- British Standards
ISO- International Organization for
Standardization
Textile Test Conditions
Temperature- 202C or 272C

Humidity-65% R.H.
Physical Characteristics to be Covered
gsm
Thickness
Tensile Properties
Tearing Strength
Air Permeability
Abrasion Resistance
Pilling Resistance
Stiffness, Handle and Drape
gsm
Fabric Weight per unit area
Expressed most popularly as grams per square
meter
Abbreviated as gsm
Also expressed in terms of ounces per square yard
Template of known area
Weigh in electronic balance
Multiply the weight with previously calculated
multiplication factor to get the gsm
Thickness
Expressed in mm or inch
Precise measurement between two plane parallel
plates when they are separated by a fabric
Presser foot and Anvil
Factors affecting the test results
Shape and Size of Presser Foot
Shape and Size of Anvil
Applied Pressure
Velocity of Presser Foot
Time
Scale of measurement
Tensile Properties
Related Terms
Load
Breaking load
Stress: Force applied/ cross-sectional area
Mass stress: Force applied/linear density
Tenacity: Stress at break
Strength: Tenacity
Extension: (Elongation/ Initial length)100
Breaking Extension
Strain: Elongation/Initial length
Strain at break
Initial Youngs modulus- Initial modulus
Work of rupture: measure of toughness- work or energy
required to break a specimen
Tensile Test Type
CRE- Constant rate of elongation
CRL- Constant rate of loading
Strip Test
Specimen dimension: 8 2(0.5)
Grab Test
Tensile Properties
Factors affecting the Tensile properties
Test specimen length
Rate of loading
Time to break the specimen
Capacity of machine
Effects of humidity and temperature
Previous of history of the specimen
Form of the test specimen
Tearing Strength
Resistance of the fabric to tearing
Tongue tear test
Tapezoid tear test
Elmondorf tear tester
1/4
4 2
3
2
2
=55
Tongue Tear Test
4- jaw separation Trapezoid Tear Test 4
100 mm
15 mm 60 mm
75 mm
20 mm
Elmondorf Tear Test

Air Permeability
Volume of air measured in cubic centimeters
passed per second through 1cm2 of the fabric at
a pressure of 1 cm of water.
Rotameters
Important Factors:
Fabric cover factor
Yarn count
Yarn twist
Yarn hairiness
Abrasion Resistance
Rubbing away of the component fibres and yarns of the fabric.
Types of Abrasion:
Flat abrasion
Edge abrasion
Flex abrasion
Parameters of abrasion resistance:

Choice of testing instrument
Choice of abrasion motion
Direction of abrasion
Choice of abradant
Backing of the specimen
Cleanliness of the specimen and instrument
Pressure between abradant and the specimen
End point of test
Assessment of abrasion damage
Pilling Resistance
Pilling is a fabric-surface fault characterised by
little pills of entangled fibre clinging to the
cloth surface.
Pills form due to the migration of fibres from
the constituent yarns in the fabric
Stiffness, Handle and Drape
Fabric Handle- Depends on the feel of the material-
depends on sense of touch
Drape- manner in which the fabrics falls
Measurement
Stiffness tester
Heart loop test
Drape meter
Parameters to define them
Bending length
Flexural rigidity
Bending modulus
Drape coefficient
Drapemeter
Bending length (c)- The length of the fabric that
will bend under its own weight to a definite extent.
c= l f(), f()= {(cos /2)/8tan }^1/3
Flexural rigidity (G)- Measure of stiffness
associated with handle.
G=w2C31000 mg/cm, w2 is g/cm2
Drape Coefficient (F)- The ratio of projected area

of the draped specimen to its undraped area, after
deduction of the area of the supporting disk.
F=(As-Ad)/(AD-Ad),
As- Actual projected area of the specimen, Ad- area
of supporting disk, AD- Area of the specimen.
Bursting Strength
Uniformly distributed force over a given area
applied normal to the fabric surface, which is
needed to burst a fabric.
Carried out for fabrics which are supposed to be
stressed in all the direction.
Example- Filter cloths, sacks, nets, parachute
Hydraulic pressure is exerted and the fabric is
tested till it bursts. The bursting pressure is taken
note of to calculate the Bursting strength.
Height to which the specimen bulges enables the
extension percentage to be calculated.
FAST- Fabric Assurance Simple Testing
Fabric objective measurement technique -necessary

and sufficient instrumental measurements of fabric
properties in order to specify and control the
quality, tailorability and ultimate performance of
fabric.
FASTContinued
FAST is a simple system of Fabric Objective Measurement for
assessing appearance, handle and performance properties of
fabrics.
But FAST only measures the resistance of fabric to deform
and not the recovery of fabric from deformation.
It measures and interprets fabric appearance, handle and
performance during the garment making operation.
Consists of three instruments and one testing method
FAST-1- Compression meter
Automatic
FAST-2- Bending meter
FAST-3- Extension meter
Manual
FAST-4- Dimensional stability test
FASTContinued
FAST-1
It measures fabric thickness at various loads and surface

layer thickness.
The fabric thickness at two different pressures enables the

accurate measurement of surface layer thickness- a
parameter which indicates the uniformity of finishing routine
and the stability of finish applied.
FASTContinued
FAST-2
Measures the fabric bending length according to BS-3356-

1961. Bending length is directly converted to bending
rigidity.
Bending rigidity is directly related to fabric stiffness.
Fabric stiffness is an important component of fabric handle.
Operator error in aligning the sample is eliminated with the

use of an optical sensor.
FASTContinued
FAST-3
Measures fabric extension at various loads and bias

extension. Extension is displayed as a percentage with 0.01%
resolution.
Bias extension is converted to shear rigidity, which is directly

related to fabric looseness- important component of fabric
handle.
Fabric extensibility is combined with bending rigidity to give

formability- a parameter related to the incidence of seam
pucker.
FASTContinued
FAST-4
Measures relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.
Test is completed in less than an hour unlike to the

conventional one-day test.
A forced convection oven, a template and a ruler are the

only equipment required to do the test.
Task for you
Behaviour of Fabrics to Water-

Absorbency, Wetting, Repellency
KES- Kawabata Evaluation System

Texile Testing

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TEXILE TESTING

Why we need Testing?

ASTM- American Society for Testing Materials

Temperature- 202C or 272C

CRL- Constant rate of loading

Elmondorf Tear Test

Parameters of abrasion resistance:

Drape Coefficient (F)- The ratio of projected area

Fabric objective measurement technique -necessary

It measures fabric thickness at various loads and surface

The fabric thickness at two different pressures enables the

Measures the fabric bending length according to BS-3356-

Bending rigidity is directly related to fabric stiffness.

Fabric stiffness is an important component of fabric handle.

Operator error in aligning the sample is eliminated with the

Measures fabric extension at various loads and bias

Bias extension is converted to shear rigidity, which is directly

Fabric extensibility is combined with bending rigidity to give

Measures relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.

Test is completed in less than an hour unlike to the

A forced convection oven, a template and a ruler are the

Behaviour of Fabrics to Water-

KES- Kawabata Evaluation System

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