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Belvedere Adler Manual

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WELCOME seewelcome to the owners of this fine, precision built Electric Sewing Machine. You now have one of the finest full- all these wonderful features : © BUILT-IN DARNER. = NUMBERED STITCH REGULATOR. * INSTANT REVERSE-SEWING just pushing a button. * PUSHBUTTON DROP-FEED for embroidery and darning. * NUMBERED THREAD TENSION DIAL. = e sewing machine with AUTOMATIC BOBBIN WINDER. HINGED PRESSER FOOT that gets over pins, seams, ete. NOTCHED SHUTTLE HOOK that prevents thread from jamming. SNAP-OUT RACE for conve! nce in cleaning. For first use of the machine, wipe off the Head thoroughly by a soft cloth to keep the machine clear It is a precise machine produced with well selected parts and minute assembling technics, so don't forget to oil the machine for all neccesary points in accordance with this Instruction Manual. Do not start sewing until you make sure the ma- chine works smoothly when the Motor works. ‘This machine is carefully designed and produced for conveni- ence of the user and you may be happy in your sewing. Give your good care to your new machine and hope you will enjoy with this machine forever. This machine is precision-bu'lt for a lifetime of sewing pleasure. Tt will require a minimum amount of servicing, and will give the maximum in those of other first class manufacturers. This manual provides all the information needed to operate the machine and to care for it properly; Hence, read through the book thoroughly so that you may become familiar with behavior and operation of the machine. Follow all instructions closely. Several service calls may be neccesary to adjust this machine to your individual neds, and to eliminate any stiffness which may be resent in any adju ment needed during the initial break-in period. Se faty--Enjoyatle Sewing @ Keep the machine clean and well oiled @ Adjust tension, etc. properly @ Use proper size needles NEVER ATTEMPT TO USE A BENT NEEDLE, NOR ONE WITH A BLUNT POINT. SIZE OF THREAD | Needles Work to be pone | Cotton Silk Sizes and | Type of Fabric Grades of | and | Nylon and Plastics. Medium light-weight and | 80 ” 11 | Summertime fabrics. as | For house dresses, children’s dresses, washable cotton 100 dresses, aprons, curtains. Dress silks and cottons, light, | weight woolens, draperies 60 fabric furnishings. | A&B] | 14 For general household sew-| to | ing, fine men’s shirts,smocks, Twist | | window draperies and fabric | 80 decorations. Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and quilts. | 40 re For men’s work shirts, study | 49, 16 | smocks and aprons, ‘heavy | Twist | quilting and fabric furnish: | 60 ings. | Heavy woven coating, light | | weight canvas, bed ticking, | | upholstery and awning ma: | | terials, slipcover fabrics. D For work or sports uniforms, | 24 60 sults made of strong linen of . cotton fabries, awnings, slip 18 | covers and mattresses, =| | t 10 Heavy. woven suiting, coat-| 45 . a | E } | ing, duck, ticking, drilling, | canvas and sacking. . | For heavy wash uniforms, Twist bedding supplies for hospi- | tals, hotels and camps. | | In general sowing Use the same size thread in the bobbin os is mentioned above. Sa Fo Set the Needle Raise needle for to its highest point by turning the balance wheel toward you. Loosen the needle-clamp screw. Remove the old needle, and slide new needle up (FLAT SIDE TOWARD BALANCE WHEEL) until it hits the top. ‘Then tighten the needle.clamp screw securely. For best results, change needles frequently. ® The Balance Wheel WHEN SEWING, WINDING BOBBINS, or CHANGING NEEDLES ALWAYS TURN THE BALANCE WHEEL TOWARDS YOU The balance wheel is provided with a stop-motion device which allows the balance wheel to run freely so that bobbins may be without operating the needle. To loosen the wheel, hold it tightly with the left hand, and with the right hand, turn the stop. motion knob toward you. See arrow. To tighten the balance wheel, turn stop-motion knob away from you. =i First remove the bobbin case as follows : Turn the balance wheel to- ward you until the needle bar is as its highest position. Lift the slide plate, and with two fingers, grasp the hinged-latch on the bobbin case and, remove the case. The bobbin will remain in the case as long as you hold on to the hinged- latch, Close the latch and the bobbin will fall ow, Loosen the balance wheel (as ex: plained on Page 3). Place a bobbin on the bobbin-winder spindle. and press it to the end of the spindle, making certain that the pin on the spindle shoulder enters the slot in the bobbin turing the rubber wheel. ‘Then press down the flat lever (between the bobbin and the rubber wheel) until the bobbin is held in place by the little metal finger that fits between the sides of the bobbin, Place a spool of thread on the lower spool pin of the machine, and pass the thread through the disk’ from below)at the bottom right of the machine. Next, wind the thread at the left end of the bobbin, from below and behind the bobbin and toward you, seven or eight times. ‘Turn the balance wheel toward you, and press the knee control or foot control (as in sewing)-to wind the bobbin completely. Run the machine slowly to wind the bobbin evenly. When the bobbin is full, it will release automatically and come to a stop. Break off the thread, and remove the bobbin. Tighten the balance wheel for sewing. Should the thread wind unevenly an the bobbin, adjust the tension Bracket at the bottom by loosening the screw and sliding the tension right as needed to change the tension. ee Threading the Beddin Case Turn Balance Wheel towards you until the take. | up lever is raised to its highest point. Place spool | of thread on the spool pin of the machine arm: pass thread throu- gh the thread guide (A) at the top cor- ner of the face-plate, dc id the back Hold the bobbin case between the thumb Peet aay, : ee to front be hh and forefinger of your left hand with the ae oe aie slot in the edge facing up. tension-disc (B), up Hold the wound bobbin between the to over, thread guard thumb and two fingers of your right hand (E), down into the with the thread on top leading away from hook of take-up you (see picture). spring (C), and over Insert the bobbin into the case, pull the back to front throu- thread into the slot; then down under the 5 Fi gh hole in the end spring until it enters the delivery eye. of the thread take- up-lever (F), down Inserting the Bobbin Case into. small thread guide of the face- (Be sure the needle is at its high- Dlate (Gjx into the est point.) Hold the bobbin case with your lower wire-thread left hand by the hinged-latch, with | guide (£1), then the metal finger of the case pointing ' up and in ling with the notch at the from left to right top of the bobbin raceway. Release the hinged-latch, and fitt- trope eye 7a the ing the center or the bobbin over the needle (1). Draw center-pin protruding from the race- ; 5" way, press the bobbin gently into aboot G0 of thread position, being sure that the metal through the eye of the needle with which to com- Lanne Bente tbemnalebioliths tare: mence sewing. Hold needle thread in your left hand, Tues ee Giicheson thread bangs turn balance wheel toward you until needle moves ing freely from the ease will be brau- up and down, and up again to its highest point, catch. MiGuenedesme’ ing the bobbin thread, which will be brought up Close the slide plate. that way through the hole in the throat plate. -5- —6 To Pick up the thread as follows > Holding the loose end of the needle thread in your left hand, turn. the balance wheel toward you by hand until the needle moves down and up again to its highest point. Pull the needle thread yently- and the bobbin thread will come up with it in the form of a loop through the needle hole. With your finger, pull this loop until the end of the thread appears. (If the bobbin thread does not rise, check to see if at least 5 or Ginches of bobbin thread is hanging loosely from the bobbin caae.) “Then draw both ends of the thread back under the presser foot and through the toes of the presser foot, Place the material tobe sewn be- neath the presser foot lever. Insert needle into. material by turning the balance wheel toward you, from top down, by hand, Regulate stitch to desired size, and start sewing. Do not try to help the feeding of the work by pulling the material, this may bend the needle and cause it to become blunt or break. As the machine feeds without any. assis- tance, it is sufficient merely to guide the fabric gently by hand in the direction you want it to be sewn. IT IS ADVISABLE TO TEST THE TENSION AND THE STITCH LENGTH ON TY‘O PLIES OF SCRAP MATERIAL BEFORE STARTING. TO SEW THE ACTUAL GARMENT. Remaue the Work ‘To remove the work, stop the machine with the needle at its highest point; raise the presser foot, and draw the fabric back and to the left, then pass the threads over the thread cutter, and pull down lightly to cut them. coe IMPORTANT. , NOTICE Never Operate the machine without material under the presser foot. IF this is not strictly od- hered to, your mechine will lock, and cannot be ‘operated until the thread Js cleaned out of the race. — To Regulate the Stitch Formation For ordinary si i should be adequate and just suffici hing, the tension on the upper and under threads ntly strong to lock both threads in the center of the work, as shown above thread is too loose, surface of the material, above (B}. non the needle is too tight, or if that on the bobbin the needle thread will lie straight along the upper thus making an imperfect stitch, as shown sion of the bobbin thread is too tight, or if that on the needle is too loose, the bobbin thread will be straight along the under side of the material, thus making an imperfect stitch, as shown above ©. Te Regulate the Tension A correct stitch can usually be obtained by varying the tension on the needle thread. To inclease the tension, turn the thumb nut on the tension spring toward you. To lessen the tension, turn the nut in the oppo- site direction. The thumb nut should not be turned abruptly, but regulated little by little, until the desired tension is obtained. The quality of sewing depends on the thread. Hence, it is nece- ssary for the user to become fully familiar with the correct tensions, through practice, Set your machine for desired stitch length, by turning stitch regulating knob. (H) Turning this knob clockwise will provide larger stitches, and turning it counter-clockwise, smaller stitches. Note, that as you rotate the knob, that the indicator in stitch length indicator window (F) will move from 0 to 4. Length of stitch increases as the indicator moves 0 to 4. Actually, when the indicator is at 0 the machine will not stitch at all. in EEVE such as you might wish to do, for fastening a seam or mending, simply push the reverse button (1) in as far as it will go. This will then cause reverse sewing. When the reverse button is released, the machine will automatically sew forward again. All sewing machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory, and it is therefore seldom necessary to alter the bobbin tension. Should it become necessary to do so, however, due to using certain kinds of materials, the adjusting screw in the tension spring on the out- side of the bobbin case can be tightened so as to inclease the tension or loosen slightly in order to lessen the tension, aS: Gor Durning and Emlbasiderg The height of the feed may be regulated according to the material being sewn, by proper setting of the push butions A and B. When sewing on thin materials such as silk, nylon or rayon, push button B down all the way. This drops the feed below plate. Now press button A halfway down, to red line on button. Machine is now set for sewing lighter materials. When sewing on medium or heavy materials, the button A should be all the way down, TO WORK THE BUILT IN DARNER, Catch between thumb and forefinger the frin- we of darner and press down then the darner jump up, and refease the pressure on sewing clothes automatically, then you are ready to darn or embroidery. 2 Large repairs, fine materials, embroidery and applique are best done with a hoop. It is advisable that you practice carefully on scrap material before attempting and 2H repair so that you will leaen to conteol the stitching evenly. Be sure to keep the material constantly moving by pressure af your fingers inasmuch as permitting the cloth to remain in one place while sewing may cause your thread to break. Upon completion of your use of the Darner, simply press the device down to its normal position. Also turn the drop-feed button back to regular sewing. Tf you want to sew the fine fabric, sifk ete., you will get good result to press the dammer at medium height, and the drop feed knob ta silk position. ek ATE SSL (HE PRESSURE | FOOT IN/REGULAR Always maintain only enough pressure to keep the cloth moving and to per- mit the machine to make a straight seam. When goeds do not feed through the machine properly, there may be too much pressure of the presser foot. Adjust this condition by allowing the darning device to rise a bit. Test this adjustment before sewing. If you wish, you can instead adjust the machine for sewing heavier fabrics by adjusting the Drop-Feed. ese19o Ti your machine has been standing idle for many months, it will require a thorough cleaning and oiling that can best be done by your sewing machine dealer Use only a good grade of oil, Inferior oils may cause the machine to become sluggish. Use only oil whose label spec- ifies “for Sewing Machines.” If your machine is used continuously, it should be oiled every day; preferably when you are done using the machine for the day. If not in constant use, oil the machine before using. Use ONE drop of oil on bearings, and wherever one part rubs against another, or turns within another part. Some such parts are visible to the eyes. Others are hid- den inside the castings. Hence look for all oil holes in the casting as indicated by arrows in the picture. Insert the oil can nozzle well into the oil hole. Before oiling the oil hole to the RIGHT of the spool pin on top to the machine, turn the balance wheel until the needle is DOWN at its lowest point, and look into the oil hole to see that the oil receptacle on the shaft is in position. Also remove the face plate by loosening the screw near the top and lower, and lifting the face plate up and off. ‘Turn the balance wheel slowly by hand and watch the mecha- nism under the face plate to see which parts move and re- quire oil. Next, put three drops of oil in the bobbin raceway after the race has been removed as described at the top of page 12. The machine is also to be oiled from the back. Loosen the screw holding the metal plate, move the plate out of the way, and tighten the screw to hold it there, Turn the balance wheel slowly in order to see which parts move and require oil. ih To Clean and Oil ' Lint, dust and threads collecting in the machine will cause it to become sluggish. To clean the machine, first disconnect the electric cord. Then remove then needle, pre. @ sser foot, slide plate, and “\ throat plate. Also. remove the bobbin and bobbin case. Brush the { iad ¥ oO a exposed parts thoroughly, Remove any packed lint with a toothpick, Clean the inside of the the spriny bobbin case and under Also clean the raceway as instructed on Page 13. (Leave the machine in this condition for oiling. ‘Then tilt the ma. chine back, and again turn the balance wheel slowly to locate the bearings and other moving parts. Here, too, you will find some oil holes in the coastings. -n— Wipe away all ex. cess oil from all parts of the machine. Con- nect and run the ma. chine rapidly for a minute to allow the oil to penetrate into the bearing. Also sew some scrap material to be sure that no oil drip from the needle bar on to your material. To Remove Accumulated Pint or Thread from Shuttle Race 1. Turn the balance wheel by hand until needle is at its highest point. 2. Remove bobbin case. 3. Turn knob (A) one half turn toward you. * 4. Turn knob (B) one half turn away from you. 5. Remove retaining (C), and hook (D) by grasping axle of hook (D). 6. Remove accumulated lint and thread from retaining ring, hook and race body, 7. Replace hook (D) in race body, with axle facing out, forming a perfect circle with Driver (E). 8. Replace retaining ring (C), polished side out, so that both grooves are under knobs (A) and (B). 9. Lock retaining ring with knobs (A) and (B). 10. Replace bobbin and bobbin case, and commence sewing. BO NOT ATTEMPT TO FORCE ANY OF THE ABOVE OPERATIONS, =e — eS C=

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