The new innovation in Textile with Melange: Case Study

M.H. Rana (MBA in Textile)

Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan
Dr. Zakir Hossain

Abstract: few years back the textile sector in Bangladesh uses the distinctive slogans against the ready
made garments only fabrics & yarn dyeing for garments. That the professional body of textile sector knows
only yarn and fabrics can dyeing but not fibers dyeing for make colorable yarn produce and reduce the
process cost by partially use dyed fibers in yarn processing mills. For this reason it was highly
unsatisfactory for the textile society and economical safety. This paper explores some of the important
factors that affect to the textile sector in the present’s scenario and the degree of knowledge. Finally this
paper attempts to find out some technique for development the colorable textile sector (yarn manufacturing
) in the ready made garments sector in Bangladesh.

Keywords: Cost effective, Time consumption, less wastage, more shades, higher strength, better
performance, less fiber damage, more smooth and so on.

Introduction: not very long ago the JC Penny advises to the Pakistani textile professionals in Pakistany
Textile sector to produce some shade by making colorable yarn with dyed fibers in deferent ratio but they
fail to achieve make such shade and then it come to Bangladesh and a large company like BEXIMCO
Group and became success and make more then fifty shade in deferent ratio with dyed fibers and gray
fibers and named that

MELANGE
By M.H.Rana MBA in Textile & Apparel marketing (PAU)
Sr. Executive (Production)
Date: 26-11-2006 Time: 7.40 pm at
BEXTEX LTD. (Yarn-1), Tatki, Taraboo, rupgonj, Narayangonj.

Mélange: n. mixture, medley. [French mêler mix]

melanin n. dark pigment in the hair, skin, etc., causing tanning in sunlight. [Greek melas black]

Definition:
makes a shade with the coloring structure of a fabric with coloring yarn form a deferent structure.
Composition:
White/gray yarn mix with color yarn or color cotton with gray cotton or color yarn with color yarn
(deferent shade percentage of color) in a fabrics.

It is the new innovation in Bangladesh by Beximco group at BEXTEX LTD (yarn –1) former
Padma textile mills Ltd. (Plant-1) with the help of Dr. Rana Implementation by some Textile
Graduate/Expert in Bangladesh like Mr. Liakat Hossain (Sr. Mgr QCA), Bazlur Rashid (Mgr.Prod ),

Cost effective: That this process is to make a simple percentage of fiber need to dyed so here less dyestuff
using and major portion of fiber without dyed so partially it need to dyed cost like(10%color +90% grey,
here only 10% fiber need to dyed and dyes cost only 10% and 90% safe)
Time consumption: that this process only a simple percentage of fiber need to dyed so it time required
only that percentage rest of all without dyed so it need less time.
Less wastage: percentage of fiber needs to dye so waste of that portion is required so processing wastage is
less
More shades: that it depend upon only color fiber mixing ratio so we can make more shade within only
mixing deferent portion of color fiber to the composition. And make many shades.
Higher strength: that dyed fiber process at spinning mills so dyed fibers stronger then un dyed fiber
processing time loosing strength is very low.
Better performance: melange that is dyed fiber is stronger then un dyed fiber because during dyeing time
single fiber absorb dyes and make itself stronger
Less fiber damage: dyed fiber is heavier then un dyed fiber so during process time it sinlge fiber damage
very small portion.

Properties of the Cotton:

Identity:- Cotton is the seeds fiber, comes from the plants. Cotton has become the most important fiber in
the world. Cotton is the backbone of the world textile trade. Many of our everyday textile fabrics one made
from cotton. Cotton fabrics our hard –weaving and capable of infinite verity of weave and coloring.
Cotton is chemically cellulose fiber. Cotton fiber is attached to the seeds of plants of the mallow family.
Cotton producing countries:-
1.USA 2.Rusisa 3.China 4.India 8. Pakistan 11.Argentina
12.Sudan 13.Syria 14.Iran 15.Spain 16.Nigeria 17.Tanzania
18.Estern Europe 19.South Africa 20.Koria 21.Australia and 22.Mayanmer

1. Formation of cotton fiber:-

Cotton grows inside the seedpods of a wide verity of plant species. The
cotton plant is annual crop and it reaches a height of 4- 6 of Cotton seeds is unusually sown is spring the
young plants are thinned –out later into rows. Indue course, may creamy white flowers appear, which turn
pink, towards the end of the first day. On the 3rd –day, The flower withers and dues to leave small green
seedpod or boll.
The cotton fibers form on the plants as long hair attached to seeds inside the boll. As the plant
grows the fibers are packed lightly into the boll, when it reaches maturity. The boll bursts and the cotton
appears as- a soft-wad of fine fibers.

2. Fiber growth :- During the first week after the cotton plant has flowered. Hundreds of fobre appear
from the seed coat. For several days more and more young fibers continue to thirst their weavy – out of the
seed unit. Each seed is caring – out a ‘Coop’ of thousand of individual fibers. For 6 days the growth of
young cotton fiber is sow .Then for the next 15 days it is more rapid. The fiber may reach a length equal to
2000 times its diameter during this those week growing period. Then for 3 days, it grows more slowly
again until the lengthwise growth covers to a sudden stop. During its period of rapid elongation, the cotton
fiber is in the form of a this, walled till of cellulose with one closed and the other attached to the seed. It is
filled with protoplasn and liquid. Nutrients which vessels of the plant.

3. Growth rings:- When the cotton fiber stops its lengthwise growth, The cotton fibers begins to
strength an it internal structure , layers of cellulose are added one after another to the thin cellulose
membrane from inside the cell. Each day seen a new layer deposited, creating a structs similar is
crones – section to the growth ring in a tree. In case of cotton fiber, the inner most layer are the
youngest ones. Where as, the outer most layers are the young in the tree. Each grow thing – ring is the
cotton fiber corresponds to a day of growth and cellulose- deposition. Every ring countries, in fast of,
two layers, one solid and compact and the other porous.
The cellulose is laid- down in the form spiral fibrils or ling threads some 1000 or more to
each ring. The deposition of cellulose centaurs for about 24 days so far.
Primary wall
1. Wax/ pectin’s
2. Outer Fibrils layer
3. Inner Fibrils layer
Secondary wall
1. Outer boundary
2. Fibrils tape
3. Fibrils bundle.
4. Single fibrils
4. Effect of growthing condition:-
In ordinary commercial cotton, about ¼ of the fibers will be immature. Sometimes pro portion of matter
cotton reaches 90%, but such high “Maturity Cotton ”are rare. In commercial upland cotton, Maturity
counts of more then 84% are described an . Hard- bodical average maturity tie between 68% and 76% and
cotton with maturity counts below about 67% are regerdel an immature or weak or soft- bodiead.

Micro structure of cotton:

Length : 1cm to 6.2 cm (.5 inch to 2 inch)

Diameter : 11µM to 22 µM
Conveolutions- sixty per centimeter
Colour –Generally white, may be creamy or brown
Length width ratio 6000 : 1 to 350:1
Light reflection – low luster, dull appearance.

Properties Cotton Jute Polyester Rayon Silk

Moisture 8.5% 13.5%
Color Wh,Cre Y, Br, Gra
Dia .015-.002
L:W 90 : 1
Organic soluv. Resist.
Dye ability Easy
Heat Burnt
Conductivity Moderate
Strength T 3.5–5 g/d
Elasticity 1.8% rc nil
Bot. Name Capsularies
And
Oilitorious
Nature Bast
Dyes

Composition one

.Fibers Handle Safe Ironing Groups Dyes

Temp0C
Cotton Medium to Crisp 218 --OH, - DIRECT,
hard CH2OH Vat,
Sulpher,
Flax Hard Very Crisp 232 BASIC
 Wool Medium Warm 149 -COOH, NH2, Reactive,
CONH2 Acid
Silk Medium Warm 120 -COOH, NH2, Reactive,
CONH2 Vat, Acid
Viscose Medium Limp 190 -OH Reactive
Acetate Very Soft Limp 177 -OH, -COOH Disperse,
Acrylic Soft Waxy 148 – 175 -SO3H, - Azoic,
COOH, - Disperse
OSO3H
Nylon Medium to Waxy 148 – 175 -COOH, NH2, Azoic, Acid
hard CONH2
Polyester Medium to Waxy 148 – 175 -OH, -COOH Azoic,
hard Disperse
Elastomeric Medium Waxy 130

Composition Two

Manufactured Composition
fibers
Acetate Cellulose with at least 92% weight of acetate hydroxyl groups.
Acrylic At least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile
Azion Regenerated protein e.g. casein, soya or groundnut
Modacry Less then 85% but more then 35 % by weight of acrylonitrile
Nylon Polyamides
Nitrile At least 85% by weight of vinylidene dinitrile.
Olefin
Polyester
Rayon
Saran
Spadex
Triacetate
Vinal
Vinyon
Aramid
Novoloid

Composition for Melange yarn:

Comp-1: lot 08/06 Comp-2: lot 09/06 Comp-3: lot 10/06 Comp-4: lot 11/06
Light eye brown 40% Light green fiber 25 % Green 85% Denim 35%
Eye Brown 8% Grey fiber 75 % Grey 15% Grey fiber 65 %
Grey Fiber 52 %
Comp-5: lot 14/06 Comp-6: lot 12/06 Copm-7: lot 13/06 Comp-8: lot 15/06
Chestnut Brown fiber 15% Stone fiber 12% Oatmeal Heather 5% Black fiber 2%
Grey fiber 85% Grey fiber 88% Grey fiber 95% Red Fiber 75%
Grey fiber 23%
Comp-9: lot 00/06 Comp-10: lot .. /06 Comp-11: lot 26/06 Comp-12: lot 27/06
Royal fiber 60% Black fiber 8% Light eye brown 65% Light green fiber 70 %
Navy fiber 15% Navy fiber 70% Eye Brown 10% Light brown 5%
Grey fiber 25% Grey fiber 22% Light Brown 5% Grey fiber 25 %
Grey Fiber 20 %
Comp-13: lot 22/06 Comp-14: lot 19/06 Comp-15: lot 20/06 Comp-16: lot 23/06
Green fiber 85% Stone fiber 40% Chestnut Brown 10 % Chestnut Brown 8 %
Light Green fiber 5% Eye Brown fiber 5% Light eye brown 35% Stone fiber 02%
Grey Fiber 10% Grey fiber 55% Grey fiber 55% Grey fiber 90%
Comp-17: lot …/06 Comp-18: lot 28/06 Comp-19: lot 24/06 Comp-20: lot 21/06
Roay fiber 15% Royal fiber 5% Green fiber 30% Orange fiber 85%
Navy fiber 60% Navy fiber 80% Light green 55% Grey fiber 15%
Grey 25% Black fiber 03 Grey fib 15%
Grey fib 12%
Comp-21: lot 25/06 Comp-22: lot 15/06 Comp-5: lot 15/06 Comp-5: lot 15/06
Black fib 50%
Raddish Brown fib 30%
Grey fib 20%

# Cotton cultivation:-
1. Formation of cotton fiber.
2. Fiber growth
3. Grow rings
4. Effect of growth condition.

# Commercial verities of cotton:-

Commercial cotton may be classified into 3 categories with reference to
staple length.

1.Staple length (1-1' 1/2’’):- Includes the fine lustrous fibers which form the top quality of cotton the
fibers are generally of 10-15µ in diameter (1.1-1.8 Tex), be a Island cotton. Egyptian and American Pima
(American-Egyptian) are in its category.

Textile:
It is a very widely used term, which included al kinds of fibers, yarn, fabrics and Machinery to process
them.
Textile —(often in pl.) fabric, cloth, or fibrous material, esp. woven. 2 fibre, yarn. —adj. 1 of weaving or
cloth (textile industry). 2 woven (textile fabrics). [Latin: related to *text]
esp. transforming it from one format to another.
texture —n. 1 feel or appearance of a surface or substance. 2 arrangement of threads etc. in textile fabric.
—v. (-ring) (usu. as textured adj.) 1 provide with a texture. 2 (of vegetable protein) provide with a texture
resembling meat. textural
Textile fiber:
Fibers are viable hair like substances that are very small in diameter in relation to their length. They
are the fundamental unit used in the making of textile yarn and fabrics
Which has the following properties can call textile fiber. Like that:
Fineness
Flexible
Observance
Shinning
Adhering property
Etc.

Natural Fibers: Wool, Silk, and specially hair fibers

Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, pineapple, abaca, sisal, kapok, asbestos.
 Man made fibers: Rayon , acetate, Nylon, Acrylic, Mod acrylic, polyester olefin, spandex,
saran, glass, Vinyl, Vinyon, Azlon, Metallic, Lastrile, Nytril.

Properties: length, average length, effective length, staple length, short length =<2”, medium
length =2.4:, long length =>2.4”

a. ) The effective length:

Strength:
Processing:
Appearance:

b) Strength and extension:

c) flexibility:
d) cohesiveness:
e) uniformoty:
f) finness:
g) cross section:
crimp:
h) Eleasticity:
i) Resiliency
j) Toughness
k) Work of rupture:
l) Appearance:
m) Density:

Chemical property:
a) water
b) absorbency:
c) acid:
d) alkai:
e) Heat
f) Sun light
g) Moisture:
Filament, Yarn

COUNT SYSTEMS
Tex - The Tex system is a direct system and express the fineness in grams per kilometer. Thus 1tex = 1g /
km.
Millitex (Tex) = 0.001g/km.
Decitex (Tex) = 0.1 g/ km.
Kilotex (Tex) = 1000g/ km.
Den - This is the other direct system and the unit denier express the fineness in grams per 9000 meters It is
often used to describe man-made fibers thus “1.4 den polyester”.
NEC- perhaps the most widely used indirect system the English Cotton Count
(NEC) is defined as the number of lengths of 840 yards each that weight one pound.
Nm - Also an indirect system the metric count (Nm) is defined as the number of lengths of 1000 meters
each that weigh one kilogram.
Nek - The English wool count is an indirect system used for worsted yarns and is defined as the number of
lengths of 560 yards each that weight one pound.

Spinning Process Flowchart

Cotton Polyester Blend Yarn (DB)

Cotton Mixing Polyester Mixing

 Cotton Combed Yarn

Blow Room Blow Room

Carding Carding

Pre Comb. Pre Drawing

Lap Forming

Combing

1st Passage Drawing

Breaker

Finisher Drawing

Simplex

Ring

Winding

Packing
Blow Room

Carding

Pre Comb.

Lap Forming

Combing

Finisher Drawing

Simplex

Ring

Winding

Packing