BASICS OF TEXTILE MANUFACTURING

Presentation On

Major Cellulose Fibers

By:
T. SRIVANI,
Asst. Prof., DFT
Dt: 28.01.10
 INTRODUCTION OF TEXTILE
INDUSTRY
• Textile Industry in India is the second largest employment generator.
• Indian textile industry is the second largest in the world, second only to China.
• It accounts for more than 30% of the total exports.
• Indian textile industry is constituted of the segments like Readymade
Garments, Cotton Textiles including Handlooms, Man-made Textiles, Silk
Textiles, Woolen Textiles, Handicrafts, Coir, and Jute.
 CELLULOSIC FIBRES

MAJOR CELLULOSIC MINOR CELLULOSIC

• COTTON
• LINEN HEMP
• JUTE SISAL
KAPOK
RAMIE
COIR
PINA
 COTTON THE KING OF FIBRES

• Cotton is a soft, staple fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton
plant (Gossypium sp.).
• Cotton comes from the Arabic word qutun or kutun

• Cotton is cool, soft and comfortable to wear

• It is the principal clothing fiber of the world.

• Its production is one of the major factors

in world prosperity and economic stability.

 IMPORTANCE OF COTTON IN TEXTILE
INDUSTRY

• Cotton, one of the principal crops of the country, plays a key role in
the Indian economy.
• Cotton is also the main raw material for the huge domestic textile
industry.
• 4 million farmers are cultivating cotton .

• Area - 85 lakh hectares.

• Production - 150 lakh bales.

MAJOR PRODUCERS AND SOURCES OF
COTTON

• Cotton grows in the seed pod of a genus of plant named gossypium.

• Grows best in light, loamy soil.

• Major countries producing cotton are United States of America. China,

India, Pakistan, Egypt, Brazil.
• Some other suppliers : Peru, Cyprus, Central Asia, Japan, and Italy.
 MAJOR COTTON PRODUCING
COUNTRIES
PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
1.
(35.8 million pound bales)

INDIA
2.
(25.3 million pound bales)

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

3.
(19.2 million pound bales)
COTTON
 Cotton
• History backs to 3,500 BC- India
3,000 BC –Peru
• Composed of 85-90% cellulose
• A seed hair grows on seed, a single cell
• 1 seed may have app. 2000 fibers
• 1 boll may have app. 100,000
fibers.
• Fibers accumulate moisture
& salt for germination and
also to protect.
• As the plant matures, the boll
opens, fibers dry, the cell
wall collapses, flattens and
twists. This becomes a
characteristic feature of
cotton, called convolutions.
They may be around 100-300
per inch,and they are
responsible for cotton’s
spinnability.
 COTTON LONGITUDINAL-
SECTION

•cotton has a Bean-shaped cross section

• Traditionally spun with Z-twist, as it is the
direction it twists when dried. Z twist stays intact
on cotton.
• Gossipium is the Genus.
– Gossipium hirsutam.
– Gossipium peruvianum.
– Gossipium arboreum.
– Gossipium herbaceum.
– Gossipium barbedense.
– Gossipium purpurascede.
 TYPES OF COTTON
The following species are grown commercially:
• Gossypium arboreum L. – Tree cotton, native to India and
Pakistan.

• Gossypium barbadense L. – known as American Pima,

Creole, Egyptian, or Sea island cotton, native to tropical
South America.

• Gossypium herbaceum L. – Levant cotton, native to southern

Africa and Arabian Peninsula.

• Gossypium hirsutum L. – Upland cotton, native to Central

America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida - most
commonly grown species in the world.

• Gossypium peruvianium

• Gossypium purpurascade
 STRUCTURE OF COTTON

• Under a microscope, a cotton fiber appears as a very fine, regular fiber.

• length: 10 mm to 65 mm
• Diameter: 11 micron meters to 22 micron meters.
• Length to breadth ratio: 6000:1 (longest) to 350:1 (shortest)
• Look like a twisted ribbon or a
collapsed and twisted tube.

• Twists are called convolutions.

 Properties of cotton fibers
Property Evaluation
Fairly uniform in width, 12-20 microns; length varies from ½ to 2½ inches;
Shape
typical length is ⅞ to 1¼ inches.
Luster low
Tenacity (strength)
Dry 3.0-5.0 g/d
Wet 3.3-6.0 g/d
Resiliency low
Density 1.54/1.56 g/ccm
Moisture absorption
raw:conditioned 8.5%
saturation 15-25%
mercerized: conditioned 8.5-10.3%
saturation 15-27%+
Dimensional stability good
Resistance to
acids damage, weaken fibers
alkali resistant; no harmful effects
organic solvents high resistance to most
sunlight Prolonged exposure weakens fibers.
microorganisms Mildew and rot-producing bacteria damage fibers.
insects Silverfish damage fibers.
Thermal reactions
Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150˚C or over.
to heat
Burns readily.
to flame
 IDENTIFICATION OF COTTON FIBRE
 Test Soda Causti Sodi Hyd Nitr Nitric Sulp Sulp Burning Microsc Remarks
ash c soda um ro ic acid huric huric in opic
  40% 25% hypo chlo acid 70% acid acid Flame View
sol. sol. chlo ric 15% 15% 70%
ride acid
40%
Fiber
Cotto swells Swells Whit Turn Ope looses Disso Disso Burns Longitud Resistanc
n & ened s ns strengt lves lves continuo inal e to
Shines yello up h on quick usly twists. alkalis.
wish heat ly leaving
Dissol ing grey ash
ves of
slowly burning
paper
smell
 VARIOUS FINISHES APPLIED
ON COTTON
• Mercerization- adds strength, improves lustre, absorbency, dyeability

• Sanforization-ensures less than 1 % shrinkage

• Moireing- for variable luster and variable pattern

• Glazing-gloss, smoothness and embossed effects

• Stiffening- smoothen, stiffens and strengthens

• Wrinkle resistant permanent press- improves shape-retension and imparts

dip-dry characteristic

• Schrenerizing-adds luster
• Stain repelling-for easy care

• Napping-for softness, warmth and increased absorbency

• Singeing-for smoothness

• Weighting-for bulk

• Insulating-for warmth

• Embossing-for decoration

• Mildew resistant

• Fire-retardant

• Moth-resistant
 USES OF COTTON
• In apparels- men, women and children wear
• In household furnishings
• In industrial textiles
• In medical field
• In hosiery and sportswear
• In tents and shelters
 ADVANTAGES
• It can be processed into a wide selection of fabrics-

1. Sheer fabrics- cambric,batist chiffon,lawn,organdy and voile.

2. Medium weight cottons-broadcloth,drill,flannel,poplin,terry cloth and long cloth.
3. Heavy weight cottons-brocade,corduroy,denim,pique and velveteen

• Can be mercerized to improve luster, absorbency,dyeability and strength.

• Textured effects are easily achieved by-

1. Changing yarn structure-high twist yarns, nub yarns, bouclé yarns, crimped yarn
2. Changing fabric construction- crepes, seer suckers
3. Application of special finishes- embossing and napping

• Can be easily dyed or printed with almost all classes of dyes.

• Good absorbency, Does not build up static electricity, Good conductor of heat
 LIMITATIONS
• Untreated cotton wrinkles easily

• Susceptible to mildew if left damp

• Flammable

• Takes a long time to dry

 Staple Yarn manufacturing
• The concept
• Making all the fibers to be parallel to each
other and twist so as the fibers wrap around
each other.
 Cotton Process
• Plucking and Picking
• Ginning
• Opening and mixing
• Cleaning
• Carding
• Drawing
• Combing(optional)
• Roving
• Spinning
 Yarn Manufacturing Processes
Plucking:-
1. Manual
2. Mechanical

Picking:- open tufts are

collected and rolled into a
batt. Then batt is removed
from the cylindrical screens
of the picker in an even flat
sheet and rolled into a lap
 Ginning
Harvested raw cotton contains
seeds, leaf fragments etc.

Cottonseeds weigh 2/3rds of raw

cotton when picked.

These are removed by a cotton gin.

Cotton gin has saw-toothed bands
that pull the fiber from the seeds.
Then cotton fiber is compressed
into rectangular bales, covered with
jute or polypropylene bagging and
bound with iron bands.
 Opening and blending
• The sequential production process begins by
converting the compacted layers of baled cotton
into small, light, fluffy tufts that facilitate removal
of foreign matter. This initial process is called
“opening” done with the help of mechanical
beaters
• Since bales are of different density, they are cut 24
hrs before processing in order to allow them to
“bloom”.
Scutching

• The opened bunch of fibers are picked and opened

• Further cleaned off the dirt, sand, broken stalks and
leaves, seeds etc.,
• The fibers are oriented towards their length
• Finally a web like finely oriented lap is drawn over a
roller called Lap roller
 Carding

• The lap is fed between two rollers of combs of fine needles,

directionally operating opposite, comb the lap.

• Another doffing comb cleans and orients the fibers apart by

removing short fibers,dirt and other impurities.

• The lap is transformed into a voluminous soft strand called

card sliver.
Carding The card successively works on
small tufts of fibres

•separating or opening them,

•removing a high percentage of
trash and other foreign matters
•collecting the fibre in a
rope-like form called
“sliver” and delivering it
for further processing.

The fibres are made parallel

to each other and their
direction is oriented.
 Drawing

• A set of card slivers are placed and drawn

together to produce Same length of Sliver
equal to set of the slivers fed.
• The short staples are removed and the fibers
are more paralelalised and the fibers from
different lots are more evenly mixed
towards the twisting axis.
Combing
• This process is similar to drawing but having very
fine needles as combers
• The shorter fibers are more effectively removed,
more oriented so that it could be spun into a more
finer and superior quality yarn.
• Combing is generally an optional process which is
done generally for finer quality of yarns.
Combing

•Provides more extensive

cleaning than carding

•Removes short fibres (linters)

neps and trash so that
the resulting sliver is
Clean, lustrous and more
uniform in diameter.
 Roving
• The slivers from
drawing are drawn
further to a finer
strand with lesser
twist just to hold
the fibers
• This results in
roved sliver
Spinning

• The roved sliver is set in a spinning frame

and fed with a speed according to the
fineness required.
• Roving drawn at higher speed than it’s fed.
• There is a flier which carries and draws the
roving due its high speed.
• The twist is inserted due to the rotation of
the flier round the bobbin placed.
 Open end spinning
• The concept is to take fibers at an earlier
stage and spin it either

  – Mechanically
                        
– Fluid
– Electrostatic force
The fibers are taken into an area where the fibers
are aligned by any of the above forces and
oriented towards their spinning axis.
 Doubling

• Doubling is done generally when the yarn is

required with high strength .
• Doubling is also done for yarns that are
generally meant for warp as it needs more
strength
• Doubling also can create texture in to the
yarn.
COTTON
FROM FIELDS

(Plucking)
BALE ROOM
BALE OPENING
&
MIXING
 BLOW ROOM
TWO BLADE
BEATER

SCUTCHER

Blow room operations:

LAP MAKING
• Blending
• Opening
• Cleaning and
• Lap formation
FINISHED LAPS
FOR CARDING
 CARDING MACHINE

LAP FOR CARDING

CARDING:
Removal of impurities and
foreign particles from the lap
and converting in to sliver
CARDED SLIVER
 RIBBON LAP

DRAWING:
Parallelisation of fibres by further
drawing of slivers combined from
several carded/combed slivers

COMBING:
Removal of short staple fibres
SPEED FRAME OR RING FRAME
SIMPLEX

ROVING: SPINNING:
Sliver made thinner and slight Conversion of parallel staple fibres
twist introduced in to continuous strand of yarn
 CONE /
CHEESE
WINDING

WINDING:
Winding of spun yarn done in ring bobbins,
cones or cheese.

DOUBLING:
Two or more single yarns from cones are
DOUBLING OF YARNS Twisted and wound to a parallel cheese
 SIZING OF YARNS

AFTER
TREATMENTS
GIVEN TO
YARNS
FINISHING OF YARNS:
• Sizing
• Ultra violet yarn inspection and
• Steaming
WEIGHING OF YARNS
RING SPINNING
SPINNING
Blow room
ROTOR OR OPEN END
Carding
Blow room
Sliver lap
Carding
Ribbon lap
Draw frame
Comber
Open end spinning
Draw frame
Assembly winder
Simplex
Doubling
Ring frame
PACKING
Packing
PROPERTIES
OF
FLAX FIBRE
 FLAX
 It is a natural cellosic bast
fibre
 derived from the stems and
bast of a plant.
 The heaviest fibre with
density of 1.51g/cc.
 flax is processed to make
linen fibre.
 Produced in countries like RETTING OF FLAX
australia, belgium, france,
germany etc.
• It is valued for its
exceptional coolness and
freshness in hot weather
and is thus superior to
cotton in this regard.
• Linen was used in the
Mediterranean in the
pre-Christian age.
• Linen was sometimes
used as currency in
ancient Egypt.
• Strength: Linen is a durable fiber, as is two-three times
as strong as cotton. It is second in strength to silk.

• Elasticity: Elasticity is the extent to which a fiber can be

elongated or stretched and the then returned to its
normal condition and size. Linen is the least elastic
natural fabric.

• Resilience: Resilience refers to the extent to which a

fabric can be deformed by crushing or compressing it,
and finally returning it to its original condition. Linen is
quite stiff and wrinkles easily.
• Absorbency: Absorbency refers to the extent to which
moisture can penetrate into a fiber. The fiber absorbs
moisture and dries more quickly. It is excellent for
manufacturing towels and handkerchiefs.

• Heat Conductivity: Heat conductivity refers to the

extent to which heat can be conveyed through a fiber. It
is most suitable for use in summers, as the fiber allows
the heat to escape, leaving a cool effect.
• Linen is also used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents, and
even for books. For eg; Liber Linteus.
• Irish Linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to
its absorption of sweat from hands.
• Linen was probably never used as material for the
Hoplite cuirass because of its price.
• It should be ironed when damp.
• The natural color of unbleached linen is ecru.
• Linen will withstand washing in hot water and scrubbing.
• It can be bleached by spreading it in the sun to dry.
• Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used for
shields and gambeson.
• Its uses were collectively called “body linen”.
• Linen is also used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents, and
even for books. For eg; Liber Linteus.
• Irish Linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to
its absorption of sweat from hands.
• Linen was probably never used as material for the
Hoplite cuirass because of its price.
 PRODUCTION OF FLAX
The fibre is extracted from the basts by a process called retting. In this, the layers of basts are kept in water,
soaked for sometime (from some hours to few days) and then the fibre is removed from the swelled bast.
There are two types of retting:

Chemical retting: it is done using H2So4 or caustic soda in

boiling water.

Natural retting : it is done by soaking the stems in dew

drops, rainfall or stagnant water(ponds, lakes etc).
 QUALITY AND GRADES
 Countries cultivating flax plant
are
Belgium

Scot

France

Russia

Germany

Countrai flax produces the finest and strongest

yarn from Belgium
 METHODS OF SEPARATION OF
LINEN
1. CULTIVATION: April or May
2. HARVESTING: By the end of August
3. PREPARATION OF FIBRES:
 Rippling/Threshing – seeds and leaves
removal from stem.
 Retting – Most important process where stems
are left under moistened condition to
decompose and separation of fibers.
Types of retting :
1. Dew retting
2. Pool or Dam retting
3. Stream retting
4. Vat retting
5. Chemical retting

4. Manufacturing process:
Breaking
Scutching
Hackling (Coming)
Spinning.
CONSTRUCTION OF LINEN FABRICS

• Inelastic so usually break during weaving

process
• Very moist atmosphere is required.
• Generally not knitted because of
a) Inherent stiffness
b)Resistance to being formed into loops
 MORPHOLOGICAL
STRUCTURE
MACROSCOPIC PROPERTIES

 Fine regular longitudnal strands of fibre

 Length varies from 10 to 100cm.
 Thickness ranges from 10 to 20cm.
 Length:breadth ratio= 15000:1(fine) & 1500:1(short)
 Color ranges between light blond to grey.
MICROSCOPIC PROPERTIES
• It has 800 nodes in one fibre.
• The cells are covered with thick wax layer
which subdue its lusture.
• Flax cells are hard and more resistant than
cotton.
 Flax Fibre

(cross sectional shape) (longitudinal shape)

About 3-6 cells constitute a fibre cross-section.

Microscopic view :
Longitudinal shape – cylindrical (like a bamboo)
Cross-sectional shape – polygonal
 PROPERTIES
• PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:

 High tenacity due to crystalline structure

 Wet tenacity is high due to more no. of hydrogen
bonds.
 Inelastic like cotton and wrinkleds.
 Hydroscopic in nature
 Has the best heat resistance due to thick wax layer.
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

 Effects of alkalis: Treatment of flax with alkali increases its lustre,

absorbency and reactivity but reduces its strength. This process is
called cottonisation.
 Effect of acids: acids weaken the fibre by hydrolysing the polymer at
glycoside oxygen atom.
 Effect of bleaches: two commonly used oxidizing bleaches are
sodium hypochlorite and sodium perborate.
 Effect of sunlight and weather: the UV rays and infra red rays provide
photochemical and heat energy which is enuf to degrade the fibre.
 Resistance to perspiration: color fades due to excessive perspiration.
 USES OF FLAX
• Table wear
• Suiting
• Clothing apparel
• Surgical thread
• Sewing thread
• Decorative fabrics
• Bed linen
• Kitchen towels
• High quality papers
• Handkerchief linen
• Shirting
• Upholstery
• Draperies
• Wall coverings
• Artist's canvases
• Luggage fabrics
 Physical Properties

COLOUR
Light ivory to dark tan or grey (due to cortical
tissue adhering to the fibres)

DENSITY 1.50 g/cm3

LENGTH
2” to 36” (due to high degree of polymerisation-
18000)

LUSTRE
Good (due to its long regular fibre surface which is
covered with a film of wax)

PILLING PROBLEM Less (due to long fibres)

ABSORBENCY Very good (polar –OH groups attract water

molecules)
 Mechanical properties

Twice that of cotton ( crystalline structure and

STRENGTH formation of H-bonds);
20% more wet strength (formation of more H-
bonds)
ELASTICITY ,
ELONGATION , Poor (due to crystalline polymer system and
RESILIENCY & formation of countless H-bonds)
FLEXIBILITY

ABRASION
RESISTANCE
Fair ; abrades at folds and edges

WRINKLE RESISTANCE Poor (due to poor resiliency )

Electrical & Thermal Properties

HEAT & ELECTRICAL

CONDUCTIVITY
Good

No problem; no static buildup (absorbency and

STATIC ELECTRICITY
conductivity is good)

Withstands high temperature; may char and

EFFECT OF HEAT
burn at very high temperatures
Biological & Chemical Properties

70% cellulose, 30% pectin, woody tissue, ash

COMPOSITION
and moisture.
AFFINITY TO Difficult to dye (surface of fibre is hard and
DYESTUFF non-porous, therefore impenetrable to dyes)
Resistant to moths;
BIOLOGICAL
RESISTANCE Attacked by silverfish fungi, mildew & bacteria
(cellulosic composition)
RESISTANCE TO Good
SUNLIGHT

Weakened by bleaches and acids (tissue holding

CHEMICAL the cells are broken down by bleaches and
RESISTANCE acids);
Resistant to alkalies
 JUTE
• Jute is one of the cheapest
natural fibres
• Long soft shiny vegetable
fibre
• It falls into bast fibre
category and can be spun
into coarse thread
• Jute fibres
are composed primarily o
f the plant materials
cellulose and lignin .
Jute SOURCE
•Jute is one of the strongest
natural fibres
•The jute fibre comes from the
stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the
jute plant.
•The production is concentrated in
Bangladesh, India, China, and
Thailand.
• It is the second most important
vegetable fibre after cotton, in
terms of usage, global
consumption, production, and
availability.
• It is thus a ligno-cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and
partially wood.
• The plant grows upto a height of 2.5m and its fibre length is about 2m.
• it is generally used in geo textiles.
• it has a good resistance to micro organisms and insects.
• it has low wet strength, low elongation and inexpensive to produce

JUTE FURNISHED FABRICS

•Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun
into coarse, strong threads.
•It is produced from plants in the genus Corchorus, family
Tiliaceae.
•Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres and is second
only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses.
•Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials
cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major
components wood fibre).
•It falls into the bast fibre category (fibre collected from
bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp,
flax (linen), ramie, etc.
• The industrial term for jute fibre is raw jute.
• The fibres are off-white to brown, and 1–4 meters (3–12
feet) long.

• Jute plants (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis)

• Jute fibre is often called hessian; jute fabrics are also
called hessian cloth and jute sacks are called gunny bags
in some European countries. The fabric made from jute is
popularly known as burlap in North America.
  
 
 
                            
   
                          

Bundles of jute, showing the Jute plants (Corchorus

fibres of Corchorus olitorius olitorius and Corchorus
(tossa jute fibre) and capsularis)
Corchorus capsularis (white
jute fibre)
 FEATURES
• The lower part is hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings
in Bangladesh and India (commonly called jute butts or
jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings are lower in quality,
but have commercial value for the paper, carded yarn,
and other fibre processing industries. Jute fibre is 100%
bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally
friendly.
• It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and
hence called The Golden Fibre.
• It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast
or skin of the plant's stem.
Picture of cutting lower part of the long jute fibre. The lower part is
hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings in Bangladesh and India
(commonly called jute butts or jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings
are lower in quality, but have commercial value for the paper,
carded yarn, and other fibre processing industries.
 USES OF JUTE
•Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales
of raw cotton, and to make sacks and coarse cloth.
•The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair
coverings, carpets, area rugs, hessian cloth, and
backing for linoleum.
•The fibres are used alone or blended with other
types of fibres to make twine and rope.
•Jute butts, the coarse ends of the plants, are used
to make inexpensive cloth.
•Jute is also used in the making of ghilie suits. Which
are used as camoflauge and resemble grasses or
brush.
Jute matting being used to prevent flood erosion
while natural vegetation becomes established. For
this purpose, a natural and biodegradable fibre is
essential.
 Minor Cellulosic Fibres
• These fibres are those which are rarely used in
Apparel use.
• They are produced in less quantity.
• The Minor Cellulosic Fibres are:
1) Hemp 6) Coir
2) Manila Hemp
3) Ramie
4) Sisal
5) Kapok
HEMP FIBRE
• Hemp is a vegetable
fibre.
• It is obtained from the
Hemp plant.
• It is cultivated almost
all over the world,
except for the United
States.
 Properties of Hemp Fibre
• It is a yellowish brown
fibre
• Hemp fibers can be 3 to
15 feet long, running the
length of the plant.
• Depending on the
processing used to
remove the fiber from
the stem, the hemp
naturally may be creamy
white, brown, gray,
black or green Harvesting of Hemp
Appearance -Hemp
 Uses of Hemp Fibre

Hemp fabric
Hemp Necklace

Hemp toe sandal

 MANILLA
• Manilla, also known
as Manila Hemp, is a
fibre obtained from
the leaves of the abaca
plant.
• Mainly cultivated in
Manila, the capital of
Philippines.
The abaca
plant
 Properties of Manilla Fibre
• The abaca plant grows
up to 20 feet when
mature.
• The stem consists of
tightly packed, long, Mature abaca plant
crescent-shaped
sheaths, that grow
from a central core.

Manilla Hemp Yarn

 Characteristics of Manilla fibre
 Extremely strong.
 Resistant to salt water.
 Bio-degradable.
 Eco-friendly.
 Has a beautiful
texture.
 Relatively cheap to
produce.
Manilla
Rope
 Uses of Manilla Fibre
• Manilla fibre is used
to make
 Ropes
 Paper
Manilla
 Rug Rope
 Furniture
 Carpet and countless
other products.

Manilla Bag
 RAMIE
• Ramie is one of the oldest
fibre crops, having been
used for at least six
thousand years.
• It is also known as china
grass.
• Ramie is normally
harvested two to three times
a year but under good
growing conditions, can be
harvested up to six times
per year. Ramie Plant
• The ramie plant is 2.5m tall.
 Properties of Ramie
• Ramie fibre is one of the
strongest natural fibres.
• The fibre is similar to flax
in absorbency, density and
microscopic appearance.
• Silky lustre to the fabric
appearance.
• Usually blended with
other fibres, as it is not
that durable.
Ramie Yarn
 Characteristics of Ramie
• Ramie fibre has the
ability to hold shape.
• Resistance to
wrinkling.
• It is stiff and brittle.
• Lacks resiliency.
• Low elasticity

Ramie Fabric
 Uses of Ramie
• Ramie is used to make
 Industrial sewing
thread
 Packing materials
Ramie Packing
 Fishing nets
 Filter cloths

Ramie Hat
 SISAL
• Sisal is obtained from
the leaves of the Sisal
Plant.
• Annually, thousands
of tonnes of Sisal
fibres are produced in
most parts of Africa
and Asia.

Sisal
Plant
 Properties of Sisal Fibre
• Sisal fibres are
smooth, straight and
yellow and can be
long or short.
• Since it is coarse and
inflexible, it is mainly
blended with wool or
acrylic to give a softer
hand. Harvested Sisal
 Characteristics of Sisal Fibre
• Sisal fibre is
 Strong
 Durable
 Ability to stretch
 Affinity towards
certain dyestuff
 Resistance to
deterioration in salt
Sisal Fibre
water
 Uses of Sisal Fibre
• Sisal fibres are used to
make
 Rugs
 Slippers Sisal Bag Sisal Scrub
 Ropes
 Carpets
 Specialty papers

Sisal Rug
 KAPOK
• Kapok fiber is a silky
cotton-like substance
that surrounds the
seeds in the pods of the
ceiba tree.
• The pods contain
seeds surrounded by a
fluffy, yellowish fiber
that is a mix of lignin
and cellulose.
Kapok pod
 Properties of Kapok Fibre
• It can support as much
as 30 times its own
weight in water and
loses only 10 percent of
buoyancy over a 30-
day period.
• It is eight times lighter
than cotton.
• The fibre is yellowish.
Kapok Pod (open)
 Characteristics of Kapok Fibre
• The Kapok fibre is
 Light
 Very buoyant
 Highly flammable
 Resistant to water

Kapok Seed
Appearance-kapok
Kapok yarn spool
 Uses of Kapok Fibre
• Kapok is mainly used
in stuffing of
 Pillows
 Blankets
 Soft toys
 Upholstery
 and for Insulation

Kapok used for Filling

 Uses of Kapok Fibre

Pillow

Upholstery Blanket

Soft Toy
 COIR
• Fibre mechanically extracted
from dry mature coconut
husk after soaking.
• It is long, hard and strong
fibre but with lower softness,
lower water absorption
capacity, and shorter life
than long retted fibre.
• There are two types of Coirs
1) Brown Coir
2) White Coir Coconut tree, Coconut and
Husk
 Properties of Coir Fibre
• The individual fiber cells
are narrow and hollow,
with thick walls made of
cellulose.
• They are pale when
immature but later become
hardened and yellowed as
a layer of lignin is
deposited on their walls.

Coir
 Characteristics of Coir Fibre
• Coir Fibre is
 Relatively water proof
 Resistant to damage
by salt water
 Brown Coir is thick
and strong
 White Coir is Segregation of Coir Fibre
smoother and fine.
Appearance –coir
 Uses of Coir Fibre
• Coir Fibre is used for
 Padding in furniture
• Production of
 Brushes
Coir Carpet
 Carpets
 Ropes
 Rags

Coir Rope
THANK YOU
 COIR

SOURCE
• Coir fibers are found between the husk and the outer shell of a
coconut.

• The individual fiber cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls
made of cellulose.

The coir is of two types:

1. Brown coir
2. White coir
 MANUFACTURING PROCESS
BROWN COIR
•Brown coir is harvested from fully ripened
coconuts

•The fibrous layer of the fruit is then separated

from the hard shell (manually) by driving the
fruit down onto a spike to split it (De-husking

•The fibrous husks are soaked in pits or in nets

in a slow moving body of water to swell and
soften the fibres

•The long bristle fibres are separated from the

shorter mattress fibres underneath the skin of
the nut, a process known as wet-milling

•The mattress fibres are sifted to remove dirt

and other rubbish, dried in the sun and packed
into bales
 WHITE COIR
• White coir fibers are harvested from the
coconuts before they are ripe

• The immature husks are suspended in a river

or water-filled pit for up to ten months.

• During this time micro-organisms break

down the plant tissues surrounding the fibres
to loosen them - a process known as retting

• Segments of the husk are then beaten by

hand to separate out the long fibres which are
subsequently dried and cleaned
RETTING
• Cleaned fibre is ready for spinning into yarn
using a simple one-handed system or a
spinning wheel.
 PROPERTIES
• Mature brown coir fibers contain more lignin
and less cellulose than fibers such as flax and
cotton and so are stronger but less flexible

• The fibers are white or light brown in color

and are smoother and finer, but also weaker
 USES
• Brown coir is used in floor mats and
doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor
tiles and sacking.

• Used to make twine

• Used to fill mattresses

• The major use of white coir is in rope

manufacture
HEMP

The fiber is one of the

most valuable parts of
the hemp plant.

It is commonly called
"bast fibre", meaning it
grows as a stalk from
the ground
 PROPERTIES
•The inner two fibers of hemp
are more woody, and are more
often used in non-woven items
and other industrial
applications

•Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15

feet long, running the length of
the plant.

•the hemp naturally may be

creamy white, brown, gray,
black or green
 USES

•the manufacture of cordage of varying

tensile strength

•clothing

•nutritional products

•hemp fibers are increasingly used to

strengthen cement
 RAMIE:-
Ramie (Boehmeria nivea) is a flowering plant in the nettle
family native to eastern Asia. The true ramie or china grass
also called Chinese plant or white ramie is the chinese
cultivated plant. A second type is known as green ramie or
rhea and is believed to originate from Malay peninsula. It is
suitable in tropical climate….. Ramie is one of the oldest fibre
crops, having been used for at least six thousand years, and
is principally used for fabric production. It is a bast fibre, and
the part used is the bark of the vegetative stalks. Ramie is
normally harvested two to three times a year but under good
growing conditions can be harvested up to six times per
year.Unlike other bast crops, ramie requires chemical
processing to de-gum the fibre.
 Properties
Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers. It
exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie
fiber is known especially for its ability to hold
shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky
lustre to the fabric appearance. It is not as durable
as other fibers, and so is usually used as a blend
with other fibers such as cotton or wool. It is
similar to flax in absorbency, density and
microscopic appearance. However it will not dye
as well as cotton. Because of its high molecular
crystallinity, ramie is stiff and brittle and will break
if folded repeatedly in the same place; it lacks
resiliency and is low in elasticity and elongation
potential.
 Uses
Despite its strength, ramie has had limited acceptance
for textile use. The fiber's extraction and cleaning are
expensive, chiefly because of the several steps—
involving scraping, pounding, heating, washing, or
exposure to chemicals. Some or all are needed to
separate the raw fiber from the adhesive gums or
resins in which it is ensheathed. Spinning the fiber is
made difficult by its brittle quality and low elasticity; and
weaving is complicated by the hairy surface of the
yarn, resulting from lack of cohesion between the
fibers. The greater utilization of ramie depends upon
the development of improved processing methods.
•Kapok (Ceiba pentandra) is a tropical
tree of the order Malvales and the family
Malvaceae (previously separated in the
family Bombacaceae), native to Mexico,
Central America and the Caribbean,
northern South America, and (as the variety
C. pentandra var. guineensis) to tropical
west Africa. The word is also used for the
fibre obtained from its seed pods. The tree
is also known as the Java cotton, Java
kapok, or ceiba. It is a sacred symbol in
Maya mythology.
 • Uses
• The fibre is light, very buoyant, resilient, highly
flammable and resistant to water. The process of
harvesting and separating the fibre is labour-
intensive and manual. It cannot be spun but is used
as an alternative to down as filling in mattresses,
pillows, upholstery, teddy bears and for insulation.
It was previously much used in life jackets and
similar devices. The fibre has been largely replaced
by man-made materials. The seeds produce an oil
used locally in soap and that can be used as
fertilizer.
 • Piña

Piña is a fiber made from the leaves of a

pineapple and is commonly used in the
Philippines. It is sometimes combined with
silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The
end fabric is lightweight, easy to care for and
has an elegant appearance similar to linen
 Major Fiber Properties

• Piña comes from the leaves of the pineapple plant. "Each strand of
the hand scrapped Piña fiber is knotted one by one to form a
continuous filament for hand weaving into the Piña cloth". The piña
fiber is softer, and has a high luster, and is usually white or ivory in
color.
Production Methods

• Scraping a pineapple leaf to reveal the fibers.

• Since piña is from a leaf, the leaf has to be cut from the
plant. Then the fiber is pulled or split away from the leaf.
Most leaf fibers are long and somewhat stiff.
 Uses
• A major use for piña fabric is in the creation of
the Barong Tagalong and other formal wear
that is common in the Philippines. It is also
used for other table linens, bags, mats and
other clothing items, or anytime that a light
weight, but stiff and sheer fabric is needed .
THANK YOU