WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT

GARDEN BENCH

Traditionally made of teak, these benches have long graced English parks and gardens, aging gracefully through years of use and weather. This
version is made of cedar, but you could also use white oak, redwood or cypress. Whatever wood you use, it’s a good idea to finish your bench with a
waterproofer. This project uses traditional mortise-and-tenon construction for extra durability. Normally, you might avoid this type of joinery in favor
of easier methods, such as dowels or even drywall screws, but the superior strength of a mortise-and-tenon joint will ensure long-term sturdiness
and is consistent with the bench’s classic design. This project is perfect for learning this joint because cedar compresses easily, so it will fit together
even if it’s not perfectly cut.

Other skills you will learn are face-gluing and making dowelled joints. Face-gluing the boards that make up this bench’s legs isn’t difficult; just follow
the instructions. Dowelling requires care and patience more than anything else. And after it’s assembled, you’ll learn more about applying and using
finishes to enhance the wood’s natural beauty and ensure that it’s well-protected.

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TOOLS REQUIRED
Hand Tools Power Tools Miscellaneous
– Pipe clamps – Table saw or radial arm saw – Tape measure
– Dowelling jig – Router and a straight bit and 3/16" – Pencil
– Square and 3/4" rounding-over bits – Safety glasses
– Wood files – Portable jigsaw or band saw – 120-, 150- and 220-grit sandpaper
– Sanding block – Electric drill or drill press – Clean, lint-free cloths
– Chisels – Electric sander – Respirator
– Mallet – Jointer (optional) – Gloves for finishing
– 3/8" plug cutter – Mineral spirits (for oil-based
– Paintbrush and paint tray wood protector)
– Water-filled metal container with
tight-fitting lid (for oil-based wood
protector)
– Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler
– Waterproof glue (resorcinol)

SHOPPING LIST CUTTING LIST

NOTE: Instead of cedar, you can also use white oak, redwood Key Part Pcs. Dimensions
or cypress, all of which are naturally rot-resistant. Whichever A back legs 2 2-1/4" x 5-1/4" x 34"
wood you choose, be sure to select a mostly knot-free grade. B front legs 2 2-1/4" x 2-1/4" x 24"
C arms 2 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 21"
Item Quantity
D back seat rail 1 1-1/2" x 3" x 58-1/2"
2" x 4" x 8' clear cedar 4
E front seat rail 1 1-1/2" x 3" x 58-1/2"
1" x 6" x 8' clear cedar 6
F side seat rails 2 1-1/2" x 3" x 16-1/2"
#8 3" galvanized deck screws 16
G seat supports 2 1-1/2" x 3" x 16-1/4"
#8 2" galvanized deck screws 4
H top rail 1 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 58-1/2"
6d galvanized finish nails 20
J leg braces 2 1-1/2" x 2" x 16-1/2"
5/16" x 1-1/2" dowel pins 48
K front rail braces 2 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 3-1/2"
1/4" birch dowel rod 18"
L seat slats 5 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 60"
M back slats 12 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 14-1/2"
N tenon pins 8 1/4"- dia. x 2" birch dowels

WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS

Recommended Finish Alternate Finish
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Natural Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer PLUS Tinted
Wood Protector Wood Protector, which is available in five colors:
Honey Gold, Natural Cedar, Rustic Red, Nutmeg Brown
and Coastal Gray

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN 7. Pencil in the outlines of the mortises on the legs, drill 5/8" holes
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make inside the outlines to clear out most of the waste, and then chisel out
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have and square off the sides and ends. A drill press or dowelling jig
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always (shown in Fig. 6) will ensure that your holes are vertical. Otherwise,
discuss them with your instructor. you can hold a square against the wood to guide the drill.
• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a
tool to the project lumber. 8. Test the fit of each tenon in its corresponding mortise, and file the
• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles and the appropriate tenon or chisel the mortise to adjust the fit. The tenon should be snug
respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners and hard to push in by hand, but easily tapped in (not pounded) with
or other solvents. a wood or rubber mallet.
• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put
away all portable tools. Assembling the Bench
9. Drill holes for the plugs and clearance holes for the screws in the
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY arms(C), front and back seat rails (D and E), front rail braces (K),
PROCEDURE and back legs (A). Drill dowel holes for the back slats (M) using the
Woodworker’s Tip: To have stock thick enough for the legs of dowelling jig.
the bench, you’ll probably have to laminate three thicknesses of
3/4" material. (The Shopping List assumes this.) Cut the boards an 10. Using a router and 3/16" rounding-over bit, round the edges of
inch or two longer than you need, and bond them together with the legs (A and B), the leg braces (J), the bottom edges of side seat
waterproof glue (Fig. 2). When you’re gluing, line up the edges of rails (F), and the exposed edges of the front rail braces (K). Also
the boards to minimize work later. Don’t use regular carpenter’s round the edges of the back slats (M), the top edges of the seat slats
glue for an outdoor project like this. It won’t stand up to the (L) including the ends, the bottom edges of the top rail (H), the top
weather. You can use a resorcinol glue, which comes in two parts, and bottom edges of the back seat rail (D), and all edges of the front
a liquid and a powder. This is an excellent glue that should be seat rail (E) except the front top edge. Rout slowly to avoid splintering
applied at room temperature or above. as you cut. Finish-sand all pieces with 220-grit sandpaper.

Woodworker’s Tip: When routing cedar, you may have trouble

Building the Legs and Frame
with the wood chipping out along the length of a cut, especially
1. From a triple lamination of 1x6s, cut both front legs (B) to the
when you’re rounding over the edges. You can reduce tear-out
dimensions shown on the Cutting List.
by routing slowly, using a sharp bit and cutting in a few shallow
passes until you reach the desired depth.
2. From another triple lamination, rip each back leg (A) to a width
of 5-1/4".
11. Assemble the end pieces (A, B, F, and J). Use waterproof glue and
clamp the joints tightly until they are dry. Don’t attach the arms yet.
3. Lay out the angle cuts on the back legs according to the dimensions
shown in Fig. 3. Cut out the legs, using either a band saw, a jigsaw with
12. The mortises in the legs for the back and front rails will be blocked
a long blade, or even a handsaw to cut the angled part of the back legs.
at the bottom by the tenons of the side rail you just glued. Chisel this
Fig. 3 also shows the dimensions for rounding the tops. Use a jigsaw
little piece of tenon out, along with any squeezed-out glue.
for these cuts.
13. Glue and insert the 5/16"dowel pins into the back slats (M).
4. Cut out the seat supports (G) and side seat rails (F) according to the
Assemble the back by gluing the slats into one rail first. Test fit the
dimensions shown in Fig. 4. Cut out the arms (C) according to the
other rail, then glue it on.
dimensions shown in Fig. 5. Cut out the front rail braces (K) according
to the dimensions shown in Fig. 1.
NOTE: When assembling the back of the bench all slats should be fitted
to the bottom rail before the top rail is put on.
Cutting the Mortises and Tenons
5. Lay out and cut tenons on the ends of the rails (D, E, F, and H) and 14. Using a router with a 3/4" rounding-over bit, round over the top
leg braces (J) according to the dimensions shown in Fig. 1. You can edges of the top rail (H) and the front top edge of the front rail (E).
cut these entirely with a handsaw, but you will get more accurate results
by using a router to remove the waste from the “cheeks” (flat sides) of 15. Finish-sand the remaining rails, the arms (C), the seat supports
the tenon. Use the router with its fence attachment, and set it to make a (G), and the front rail braces (K).
1-1/2"- wide x 1/2"- deep cut.
16. Glue and clamp together the rails, the back assembly and the end
6. Cut the tenons to width with a small handsaw. Cut them a little assemblies. Drill pilot holes, then screw on the seat supports (G) and
oversize, then file them later to fit tightly into the mortises. braces (K).

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Woodworker’s Tip: Your clamps might not be long enough for If you only use water for cleaning, wait at least 2 hours before
the final assembly of the bench. If you have some shorter pipe applying Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Wood Protector.
clamps, you can hook two together or buy a threaded plumbing Allow longer drying time (4 hours) on overcast or cooler days
coupler to screw the two pipes together. Another approach is to below 60° F. It isn’t necessary for the surface to dry completely
extend the reach of a single clamp with a long piece of plywood. before applying this product.
Screw a block of wood onto it at one end to bear against the
bench, and cut a hole in the other end of the plywood to house 20. When applying this product, do not use it with other waterproofing
the “foot” end of the clamp (the one without the handle). products, as variations in the final appearance of the wood may result.
Do not thin. To ensure good penetration, do not apply in direct sunlight
17. After drilling pilot holes, nail on the seat slats (E) and set the nail or on hot days. Be sure that both surface and air temperature are
heads below the surface. Drill the holes for the tenon pins (N). Glue above 50° F and below 95° F during application and for 48 hours
and tap them in flush with the surface. Wipe off excess glue. Attach the after application. If you’re working outside do not apply product if rain
arms. Cut cedar plugs with a 3/8" plug cutter and glue them over the is forecasted within 24 hours of application.
screws attaching the arms. Sand the plugs flush with the surface.
21. Shake or stir contents for a minimum of 2 minutes before use.
18. Give your bench a final sanding before applying the protective finish. Intermix all containers (of the same color) to be used to assure
color uniformity.
PROTECTING YOUR PROJECT
Any type of wood that’s used outdoors needs protection from water 22. Apply using a paint pad or brush. Do not apply using a roller.
damage. There are a variety of protective coatings available, including For small projects, a brush is the preferred applicator.
clear and tinted wood protectors and semi-transparent and solid stains.
Each of these finishes has a different look and maintenance 23. Apply only one thin, even coat. DO NOT APPLY A SECOND COAT.
requirement. A heavier, or additional coat will not improve performance nor
appearance. Avoid puddling. Tackiness will result if over-applied.
We’ve chosen Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Natural Wood Tackiness may also occur if the overnight temperature falls below
Protector to provide complete protection for your project. It not only 50°F within 48 hours of application. Drying time will vary depending
prevents water damage, but the coating also resists mildew and U.V. on wood surface and humidity. Allow a minimum of 12 hours before
(ultraviolet radiation in sunlight) damage, and it exceeds industry using the bench.
standards for waterproofing on wood. This product is also available
in five beautiful sheer wood tones. 24. If using Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced, clean brushes and
equipment with soap and water. If using oil-based waterproofer, clean
brushes and equipment with mineral spirits. Dry product can be
FINISHING TIPS removed with mineral spirits.
• Coverage: The approximate coverage of Thompson’s® WaterSeal®
Advanced Wood Protector on cedar is 200 square feet per gallon.
For the alternate finishes we will suggest later, the approximate Alternate Finish
coverage of Clear Wood Protector is 300 to 400 square feet per 25. Before applying Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer PLUS Clear
gallon, and Tinted Wood Protector is 250 to 300 square feet or Tinted Wood Protector, read and follow the directions found on the
per gallon. back of the can. Be sure that both surface and air temperature are
above 50° F during application and for 48 hours after application, and
if you’re working outside, do not apply product if rain is forecasted
Recommended Finish
within 24 hours of application.
For the best protection against sun and water damage, use a
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Wood Protector (in Natural
or Tinted). 26. The surfaces must be free of all dirt, wood dust and other
contaminants. If the surface is damp or wet from cleaning or
19. Before applying Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Wood weather, allow the surface to dry thoroughly (a minimum of 48 hours)
Protector, the wood surface must be free of all dirt, wood dust and before application.
contaminants. Read and follow the directions found on the back of the
can. Then do a trial test before full application. The surface may darken 27. Cover plants and shrubs and move all objects that could come in
slightly with application and color appearance is different when the contact with Wood Protector.
wood is fully dry.
28. When you apply Clear or Tinted Wood Protector, do not mix it with
Woodworker’s Tip: Cedar and redwood have natural character- other waterproofing products because variations in the final appearance
of the surface being treated may result.
istics that require special treatment to enhance beauty and
waterproofing performance. If you’re using weathered wood that
29. Before applying Wood Protector over the entire surface, a small
needs cleaning, the wood may require a brightener to neutralize
trial patch is recommended to verify color.
it and restore its color after using a wash or cleaner. Wait
48 hours after application of the brightener to apply this product.

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30. In most applications, only one light coat is necessary. Apply with a protection (NIOSH/MSHATC23C or equivalent), or leave the area. Avoid
brush, roller, applicator pad, or by dipping the piece into the product. contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container
Regardless of which application method is used, remove excess within closed when not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers
15 minutes by redistributing it to drier areas or wiping it off. for storage.

31. Use only with adequate ventilation. Oiliness and tackiness will FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts
result if over-applied or applied to wet or damp surface or if overnight of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact,
temperature falls below 50° F within 48 hours of application. Excessive wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty,
oiliness caused by over-application may be removed by scrubbing wood provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, get medical attention
with a concentrated degreaser. immediately.

32. Allow at least 48 hours to dry before you hang the swing. Drying DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM
time will vary depending on the substrate, temperature and humidity. OCCUPATIONAL EXPOSURE.
Contains solvents that can cause permanent brain and nervous system
33. Clean brushes and equipment with mineral spirits, then rinse with damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling
clean water. the contents can be harmful or fatal.
WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the
IMPORTANT: Place rags, steel wool and waste immediately after use in State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
a sealed, water-filled metal container. reproductive harm.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH
NOTE: The length of protection will vary depending on environment. OF CHILDREN.
Perform the following splash test once a year to see whether reappli-
cation is necessary. Sprinkle water on various sections of surface to SAFE DISPOSAL OF RAGS AND WASTE.
be sealed. If water absorbs and darkens color of substrate within DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with this product, and
5 seconds, the surface is porous and considered ready to be treated. sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded.
If water beads up or otherwise sits on top of surface, then surface Immediately place rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with this prod-
doesn’t need protection at this time. For maximum protection from uct, and sanding residue in a sealed, water-filled, metal container.
color change and other damage caused by the sun, reapplication is rec- Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.
ommended every year. Vertical and horizontal surfaces will experience
color changes at different rates.

PRODUCT SAFETY
For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the
safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow
them to the letter. Typical safety advice and instructions will contain
information such as the following:

WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means

may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust
or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects,
especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead
or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective
equipment, such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and
proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the
National Lead Informations Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or
your local health authority.

Contents are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame.

Contains ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS.

VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid over-

exposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh
air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering,
headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air supply, or wear respiratory

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FIG 1. BENCH DETAIL

H
5 1
/16" Dia. x 1 /2" Dowels (48 required) A

SEE DOWEL DETAIL

6d Galv. Finish Nail
7 (Typical)
2 /8" (Typical)
C
215/16" (Both Ends) M

N
3" Galv. Deck Screws,
3
/8" Dia. Wood Plugs F

C B
G
L K
91/2" J
3" Galv. Deck Screw,
1
9 /2" 3/8" Dia. Wood Plug
CL
N (2 Through E, 1 Through D)
D

A 3
/8"
3
/8"
F K
3
1" /4"

2" Galv. Deck Screw 5

/8"
1
2 /2" Radius
J N
BRACE (K) DOWEL DETAIL
3
3 3 /16" Radius (Typical)
B NOTE: Legs A and B /8" /8" 1
3 /2" (F, J)
/16" Round-Over are three 3/4" pieces
(Typical of All Exposed Edges) laminated together.
1
/2"

1
3
/4" /2" 1
1 /2" (D, E, H)
TENON DETAILS

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FIG 2. MAKING THE BACK LEGS

FIG 3. SIDE SECTION VIEW

51/4"

1
1 /2"
3
H /4"
1
2 /2" Radius

1
2 /4"
5
1 /8"

1
14 /2" 10°
3
/4" Radius
34"
1
25 /2"

3"
D F E

20"

A 16" B
1
12 /4"

3"

21/4"
SIDE SECTION VIEW
NOTE: Legs A and B are three
pieces laminated together.

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FIG 4. SEAT RAIL (F) AND SUPPORT (G) DETAIL

1
16 /2"

F
D
151/2" 3
/8"
3
/4" 3
/4"
3
/4"
G
3 3
10° /4" /4"
1
16 /4"
E

DETAIL OF SEAT RAIL (F) AND SUPPORT (G)

Each square = 1"

FIG 5. ARM (C) DETAIL

10°

ARM (C) DETAIL

Each square = 1"

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FIG 6. DOWEL THE BACK SLATS TO THE BACK RAILS

Back Rail

Doweling Jig

Back Slats

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