OUTDOOR

PROJECTS
From the editors of Popular Woodworking
popularwoodworking.com

Page 1 Adirondack Love Seat

Page 7 Crisscross Picnic Table
Page 12 Stylish Patio Planter
Page 15 Outdoor Finishes

SPONSORED BY
Veritas®
Panel Platform Kit
ΖI\RXXVHDFLUFXODUVDZ\RXQHHGWKLVNLW7KHDVVHPEOHGSODWIRUPLVȵDW
DQGVWDEOHZLWKVDFULȴFLDOFURVVUDLOVXSSRUWVWKDWOHW\RXULSRUFURVVFXW
PDWHULDOZLWKRXWZRUU\LQJDERXW\RXUEODGHFRQWDFWLQJWKHVXUIDFHEHQHDWK
<RXFDQZRUNZLWKFRQȴGHQFHRQDQ\ȵDWVXUIDFHLQGRRUVRURXWΖWȇVVR
stable you can kneel right on sheet goods while you make your cut – no
PRUHVWUHWFKLQJRUVWRRSLQJDQGLWȇVHDVLHUWRIROORZ\RXUOLQHDFFXUDWHO\

Assembled using standard lumber you supply, the kit

includes 12 resilient polypropylene saddles that are
screwed to a pair of 1×3s to create the platform base;
six 1×3s clip into the mounted brackets to serve as the
VDFULȴFLDOFURVVUDLOVΖWȇVWKDWVLPSOH7KHDVVHPEOHG
platform takes less than a minute to set up, and can be used
over and over again to make hundreds of cuts with ease,
VSHHGDQGDFFXUDF\:KHQ\RXȇUHGRQHFXWWLQJWKHNLW
EUHDNVGRZQTXLFNO\DQGȴWVQHDWO\LQWRWKHȇQ\ORQEDJ
WKHSODWIRUPEDVHVVWLFNRXW

3RUWDEOHVWRUDEOHDQGH΍HFWLYHWKLV
NLWZLOOFKDQJHWKHZD\\RXZRUNΖW 8VHRQDQ\ȵDWVXUIDFH
KDVRXUKLJKHVWUHFRPPHQGDWLRQ 7KHZRUNSLHFHDQGR΍FXWDUHIXOO\VXSSRUWHGWKURXJKRXWWKHFXW
LPSURYLQJFRQWURO7KHVHLQQRYDWLYHVDGGOHVKDYHGR]HQVRISUDFWLFDO
Panel Platform Kit 05H41.05 DSSOLFDWLRQVLQWKHZRUNVKRSRURQDMREVLWH

To purchase or learn more about the Veritas® Panel

Platform Kit, call us or visit us online.
OHHYDOOH\FRP

Portable, storable /HVVWKDQD

DQGH΍HFWLYHWKLV minute to set up
Use 1×3 lumber to
NLWZLOOFKDQJHWKH create a stable
way you work. FXWWLQJSODWIRUP

&URVVUDLOVXSSRUWV
DUHVDFULȴFLDO

:RRGQRWLQFOXGHG
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 1

Adirondack About

Loveseat
This Adirondack two-seater is
based on one built by Jack Priest.
We’ve changed the arms and their
supports a bit, as well as the back’s
profile, but that’s what Adiron-
dacks are all about. Once you’ve
got the basic structure down, it’s

It’s just as comfortable as it looks. easy to customize an Adirondack

any way you want.
BY TOM CASPER

Adirondack chairs represent all that’s commonly available at home centers and MAKE THE LEGS AND SEAT
best about American design: they’re prac- lumberyards. You’ll need two 8'-long 2x6 The love seat sits on three back legs: two
tical, with no unnecessary parts; they’re boards, and nine pieces of 5/4 lumber that on the sides (A1, Fig. A) and one in the
accessible, because just about anyone who are 1" thick, 51/2" wide and 12' long. Dust center (A2). They’re virtually identi-
can cut wood can make one; and they’re from cutting western red cedar can be ir- cal, except for one important detail: the
perfectly suited to their setting, the great ritating, so wear an appropriate dust mask notch for the lower back rail (A5) is po-
outdoors. and work in a well-ventilated shop or out- sitioned farther back on the center leg
An Adirondack’s low seat and broad doors. Use rust-resistant deck screws to than on the outer legs (Fig. H). To ensure
arms invite you to slow down and take it assemble the project. You’ll need about that all the legs come out the same, make
easy. Most Adirondacks are single chairs, 100 11/2" screws and 50 11/4" screws. You’ll one paper pattern based on the measure-
of course. A two-seater is something spe- also need two inside-corner braces and ments given for the outer back leg (A1).
cial. Sharing the Adirondack experience 100 screw-hole plugs. Trace around the pattern on three leg
with a friend makes it all the better. You’ll use a tablesaw, bandsaw (or blanks cut to the same length, omitting
jigsaw), router table, 3/8" roundover the notches. Then draw the notches di-
MATERIALS AND TOOLS bit, 30° chamfer bit, cordless drill and rectly on the legs. In addition, set your
This project is built from western red a file for the project. A miter saw is also miter saw to 18° and cut a miter on a
cedar construction lumber, which is handy. scrap piece of 1x6. Use this piece to draw
PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR; ILLUSTRATION BY FRANK ROHRBACH
P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM
2

the angled lines that indicate the loca-

tion of the front legs. Draw these lines on
both sides of each outer leg.
Saw the legs (Photo 1). Smooth the
saw cuts with a file or #80-grit sandpa-
per wrapped around a block.
Make the seat slats (A3). Discard
pieces with large knots—they’ll weaken
the slats. Drill holes for screws and plugs
in the ends and middle of all the slats
using a 3/8" diameter combination coun-
tersink/counterbore bit (Photo 2). Make 1 2
the plug holes about 1/4" deep. Round
the top edges of the slats, and all other
exposed edges as you build the project,
using a 3/8" roundover bit mounted in a
router table.
Line up the front edges of all three
legs. Temporarily fasten a slat to the
middle of each leg. Glue and screw the Temporary
Slat
first four slats (Photo 3).
Make the two pieces that comprise
each front leg (B1 and B2) from one
long board. Rip the board to remove
its rounded edges. This makes a better-
looking joint when you glue the pieces 3 4
together. Cut one end of the blank at 18°,
then cut the inner leg to exact length
(Fig. E). Cut the outer leg to length, then
glue and screw together the leg pieces
(Photo 4). Note that the two front legs are
mirror images of each other.
Apply glue to the front legs and clamp
them to the back legs. Use the lines you
drew to position the front legs. Drill
holes in the front legs for screws and
plugs, then run in the screws (Photo 5).
Make the back seat slat (A4, Fig. F) and
lower back rail (A5, Fig. G). Note that the
inside curve on each end of the lower
back rail consists of three flat sections,
to receive three back slats. The straight- 5
er these sections are, the stronger your 1. Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back 4. Screw and glue together the front
joints will be. After sawing, use a file to legs from a western red cedar 2x6. You’ll get the most legs. Use a water-resistant glue to
straighten these cuts, if necessary. Use a accurate cuts by using a bandsaw, but you could use assemble all the parts of the project.
file to flatten the rail’s center straight sec- a jigsaw.
5. Glue and screw the front legs to
tion, too. Drill holes for screws and plugs 2. Joinery is simple: just screws and glue. You’ll cover the seat assembly. Then add the rest
in the back seat slat and lower back rail, every screw hole with a plug later. As you build the love of the seat slats and the lower back
seat, drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously rail, which sits in the notches on the
then round over the edges of both parts
with a combination bit. back legs. Assembly is much easier
with a 3/8" router bit. Don’t round over the if you work on a large, flat surface,
3. Assemble the seat. Fasten the first four seat slats,
inner edge of the lower back rail, where such as a door.
which are made from 5/4 cedar boards. Check for
the back slats (D1, D2) go. square as you go. Temporarily add a slat to space the
Remove the seat slat you temporarily legs the correct distance.

P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 3

Figure B
SLAT LOCATION
Figure A
EXPLODED VIEW

Figure C
ARM & BACK RAIL ASSEMBLY

Figure F BACK SEAT SLAT

Figure E
FRONT LEG

Figure D
CROSS SECTION Figure G LOWER BACK RAIL

Figure H BACK LEGS

P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM

4

Figure j ARM

Figure K
BACK SLATS & TAPERING SLED

Figure L
DRAWING THE BACK’S CURVE

1. Mark the two outer slats, then draw

an arc from each mark to find the
center point.

2. Draw an arc of the same radius from

the center point.

Adirondack Love Seat

Overall Dimensions: 58"W x 37"D x 341/2"H
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL
T W L
SEAT
❏ 2 (A1) Outer back legs 11/2 51/2 313/8 2x6
❏ 1 (A2) Center back leg 11/2 51/2 313/8 2x6
Figure M ❏ 10 (A3) Seat slats 1 11/2 47 5/4
UPPER BACK RAIL ❏ 1 (A4) Back seat slat 1 33/4 47 5/4
❏ 1 (A5) Lower back rail 1 51/2 47 5/4
FRONT LEGS
❏ 2 (B1) Outer legs 11/2 5 191/2 2x6 (A)
❏ 2 (B2) Inner legs 11/2 5 75/8 2x6
❏ 2 (B3) Corbels 1 21/2 15 5/4
ARMS
Figure N CORBEL ❏ 2 (C1) Arms 1 8 323/8 5/4 (B)
❏ 1 (C2) Upper back rail 1 51/2 53 5/4
Supplies ❏ 1 (C3) Assembly support 11/2 51/2 181/2 5/4
100 ■ 11⁄2" rust-resistant deck screws BACK
50 ■ 11⁄4" rust-resistant deck screws ❏ 4 (D1) Outer back slats 1 3 28 5/4 (C)
2 ■ Inside-corner braces ❏ 10 (D2) Inner back slats 1 31/4 32 5/4 (D)
❏ 2 (D3) Center slats 1 31/2 25 5/4
100 ■ 3⁄8" diameter cedar screw-hole plugs
A. Cut B1 and B2 from 30" long blank.
1 ■ 30° Chamfer Router Bit B. Glue up from two pieces, 5" and 3" wide.
C. Cut two pieces from one 51/2" x 28" blank.
D. Cut two pieces from one 51/2" x 32" blank.
P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 5

screwed to the back legs. Glue and screw

the lower back rail in position. Screw the
back seat slat next to it, but don’t glue it.
Add the rest of the seat slats. Space them
about 1/4" apart. Temporarily clamping
some slats in position makes it easier to
space them. Remove the back seat slat.

ADD THE ARM ASSEMBLY

Rip two 5/4 pieces for each arm (C1)
and glue them together (Photo 6). Cut 6 7 30° bevel
each blank to length, then saw out the
curves (Fig. J). Sand the glue joint, then
round over both sides of the arm with
a 1/4" roundover bit. Don’t round the
curved section where the arm overlays Upper back
the back rail. rail
Make the upper back rail (C2). This
piece has three straight sections on ei-
ther side (Fig. M), like the lower back rail.
Trace the curves of the arm pieces on
the ends of the rail. Cut out the rail us-
ing a bandsaw, with the table set at 90°, Support
and straighten the flat sections with a file.
Rout a 30° bevel on the inside edge of the Lower back
support
rail (Photo 7). Leave a 1/8"-thick blunt edge 8
to guide the bit’s bearing.
Glue and screw the arms to the upper
back rail. Note that the inside edge of each
arm is square to the back rail (Fig. C), and
that the screws go from underneath the
back rail and into the arms (Fig. A).
Cut two temporary support pieces
(C3) to hold and level the arm assembly.
Prop the assembly on these pieces and
the front legs (Photo 8). Once the as-
sembly is correctly positioned front-to-
back and side-to-side (Fig. D), clamp it
to the front legs, so it can’t shift.

FIT THE BACK SLATS

Make a set of back slats (D1 and D2).
You can rough-cut two slats from one
9 10
51/2" wide 5/4 board using a bandsaw. 6. Glue the arms together from two pieces of 5/4 material. 9. Taper the back slats using a
Build a tapering jig and cut each slat us- To make a tight, invisible joint, first remove the rounded jig for your tablesaw. Mount
ing the tablesaw (Photo 9 and Fig. K). edges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards toggle clamps on the jig to
on the tablesaw. keep your fingers away from
The exact angles on the slat’s ends are
the blade.
not important. 7. Rout a 30° bevel on the upper back rail using a router
table. The love seat’s back slats lean against this piece; with 10. Spacing the love seat’s
Drill screw-and-plug holes in the
an accurately made bevel, you’ll get tight, strong joints. back slats requires careful
lower ends of the outer slats (D1). Mark measuring and marking. Begin
8. Add the arm and upper back rail assembly. Stand it on
the positions of these slats on the lower by temporarily installing the
two supports and adjust its position until the bevel you
back rail (Fig. B). routed is in line with the lower back rail. Check this with
four slats that define the two
Clamp the slats in position (the top halves of the back.
a straightedge.

P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM

6

ends of the centermost slats touch each

other) and mark locations for the screws
that’ll go into the upper back rail.
Remove the slats, drill the screw-and-
plug holes, then attach—but don’t
Middle glue—the slats in place (Photo 10).
slat Install one of the inner back slats (D2)
midway between the outer back slats. It
should be vertical. Fit the remaining
slats (Photo 11). Make the gap between
them about 1/4". After these slats are fit-
ted, mark their screw-and-plug holes
and cut off any excess length at the bot-
tom. Then install the slats with screws,
but don’t use glue. Repeat this process
on the other side of the back.
11 Make a trammel and find the center
point of each half of the back (Fig. L).
Brace Turn the trammel around and draw
each curve (Photo 12).
Mark the position of all slats and re-
move them. Bandsaw their top ends and
round over all their edges. Glue and
Corbel screw the slats back in place. Cut a piece
Nail of paper to fit the gap between the two
back sections. Fold the paper in half and
use it as a pattern to make two pieces
14 (D3) to fill the gap. Install these pieces.

SUPPORT THE ARMS

Connect the arms and legs with inside
corner braces (Fig. A). Use #10 or #12
pan head screws to install them.
Cut two corbel blanks (B3). Rout
12 stopped grooves on the inside edge of
each blank to accommodate the corner
brace and screw heads (Photo 13). Saw
the corbel’s shape (Fig. N) and round
15
over its outside edges. Make sure each
12. Draw a curve across the back using a corbel’s top fits tight under the arm.
shopmade trammel. That’s just a stick with Drill screw-and-plug holes through the
a nail at one end and a pencil stuck in a hole
front legs and screw and glue the corbels
on the other end. Remove the slats and cut
the curve on each piece. to the front legs (Photo 14).

13. Rout grooves on the ends and inner edge

of the corbels, the wing-shaped pieces that
FINISHING STEPS
support the love seat’s broad arms. These Install the back seat slat. Glue plugs
grooves hide metal braces under the arms. in all the screw holes. Cut and sand
them flush.
13 14. Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue
Apply two coats of exterior oil finish.
and screws. The brace allows you to safely
lift the love seat by its arms. It’s best to do this outside, for good ven-
11. Fasten the middle slats next. Then install
two slats between the middle and outer slats. 15. Once every part is in place, glue plugs tilation. Sit and enjoy! PW
Adjust these slats up or down to make the in each screw hole. Cut the excess with a
spacing even. flush-cutting saw.

P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 7

Every summer, my uncle Bob tends

Crisscross
the grill at our family gatherings and
is the last one to the picnic table. He
always gets stuck with a middle seat.
We’d cheer him on as he groaned and

Picnic Table
struggled to get into it—a lot of fun, but
not a pretty sight.
Last fall, at our Labor Day feast, I
resolved to build a new picnic table with
seats that every person could slip right
into. I call it the Crisscross, after the
Table seats up to 8 and no one has to straddle a leg. shape of its base. This one’s for you, Bob.
BY CHAD STANTON
THE WOOD
I started designing the table for stan-
dard 2x6 lumber, but one day a buddy
suggested that I use a new material:
thermally modified wood. It’s South-
ern yellow pine that’s been heated to
a very high temperature, making it
rot-resistant. The process also gives the
wood a beautiful chocolate color, inside
and out, which nicely complements our
home’s cedar shakes and the artificial
stone below it. The boards are amaz-
ingly flat and stable. I had to try it!
My friend builds decks for a living.
He had a bunch of thermally modified
wood left over from a job—enough to
build this table. I gladly offered to buy
it and had a great time working with it,
although I did have to alter my plans
a bit. The wood I used is thinner and
narrower than standard material. (It’s
11/4" thick and 5" wide; standard boards
are usually 13/8" thick and 51/4" wide.)
You’ll need about 24 pieces of 8' long
2x6s to build this table. The cutting list
will work fine if you’re using standard
lumber, but your top will be nine boards
wide, rather than ten. Let’s get going!

BUILD THE CROSS STRETCHERS

Begin by making the crisscross stretch-
ers (A). Saw them to length, cutting
angles on their ends (Photo 1). Cut da-
does in the middle of each piece using a
router or a tablesaw (Fig. B).
Make the pieces that go between
the stretchers: the end spacers (B) and
middle spacers (C). Using an exterior
yellow glue, glue and screw these pieces
to two of the stretchers. Sand all the
mating surfaces first, so the glue will
adhere better. (Note that the middle

PHOTOS BY JASON ZENTER; ILLUSTRATION BY FRANK ROHRBACH

P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM
8

Figure A Figure E SEAT LAYOUT

EXPLODED VIEW 40"
24"
L
133/4" N M 67/8"
K G
J L
H
3/8"D x 4"W 23/8"
1/4" x 4" carriage bolt
F dado
E 28"radius 1/4" plywood

M L
C

B
A

N
2" deck
screw Q
D
5/16" x 31/2"
lag screw
4" deck screw
1/4" x 4" carriage bolt
Seat overhangs P
stretcher by 1" 4" deck screw

B
3/8”D x 2”W C
Figure B Dado Figure D
STRETCHER DETAILS TOP LAYOUT
241/2"

A 2" deck screw 1/8" gap between

all boards
33/4"W x 21/2"H
notch
2" dia hole
K
2" deck
screw G
H

Figure C 11/4"W x 2"H Figure E 22.5° J

STRETCHER DETAILS TRAMMEL
About 10" wide
About 36" long
337/8" D
131/2"
241/2" between
B 22.5° centers
A

Leg spacing piece 1" brad 1/4" plywood 3/4" dia

or larger
3/4" FH machine screw
to fit router base
FH machine screw, 1" long
P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 9

1. Cut the four crisscross stretchers of the base to the same length.
Miter their ends at 221/2°. All miter saws have a detent for this com-
monly used angle.
2. Glue and screw the stretchers together. Note the dadoes in the
middle of each stretcher. These cutouts are needed to create a
square hole large enough for an umbrella pole.
3. Cut half-lap notches in the center of each stretcher assembly.
It’s best to use a crosscut sled, as shown here, to prevent this large
piece from wiggling.
4. Add two legs to each stretcher assembly. Use spacing pieces
to make sure the legs are set at the correct angle and position.
Use a long level to make sure the tops of the legs are even.

Supplies
Dado
1 ■ Box of 4" deck screws
1 ■ Box of 2" deck screws
8 ■ 5/16" x 31/2" lag screws and washers
16 ■ 1/4" x 3" carriage bolts, with nuts and washers
4 ■ 1/4" x 4" carriage bolts, with nuts and washers

1 ■ 1/2" Double Flute Straight bit with 11/2" long flutes;

Freud item No. 12-122; freudtools.com
1 ■ 5/8" OD x 17/32" ID Bushing (for Porter-Cable style mount);
2 Woodcraft Item No. 144692; woodcraft.com

Crisscross Picnic Table

Overall Dimensions
6'7" square x 31"H, top is 49" dia.

NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES)

T W L

❏ 4 (A) Cross stretchers 11/4 5 76 3/4

❏ 4 (B) End spacers 11/4 2 13 1/2
3 ❏ 4 (C) Middle spacers 11/4 5 4 1/2
❏ 4 (D) Legs 11/4 5 33 7/8
❏ 2 (E) Long braces 11/4 2 47 1/4
❏ 2 (F) Short braces 11/4 2 27
❏ 6 (G) Top boards* 11/4 5 49 1/2
❏ 2 (H) Top boards 11/4 5 45
❏ 2 (J) Top boards 11/4 5 36
❏ 2 (K) Top cleats 11/4 5 45 1/4
❏ 8 (L) Outer seat boards 11/4 5 40
❏ 4 (M) Middle seat boards 11/4 3 1/2 40
❏ 8 (N) Seat cleats 11/4 2 12
Spacing ❏ 8 (P) Seat legs 11/4 5 16 3/4
piece ❏ 4 (Q) Leg stretchers 11/4 5 24

*If you’re using 51/4" wide material, only 5 boards are needed.
4
P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM
10

8
Handscrew

Dado
Tremmel

6 9

7 10
5. Fit the stretcher assemblies together. Use handscrews or blocks 8. Fasten the base to the top. It’s easiest to do this on a bench, with the
to hold one assembly upright while you drop the second assembly base upside down. Before you begin, though, make sure you can get
in place. the table out through your shop’s door—it’s big!
6. Add braces to the legs for attaching the top. The long braces have 9. Rout the top into a circle, using a plunge router mounted on a
dadoes cut in them to accommodate the umbrella pole. plywood trammel. First, plunge holes on both sides of each board to
prevent splintering (see inset). Then rout the full circle.
7. Assemble the top. Place 8d nails between the boards to create
equal gaps. Clamp the boards to keep them from shifting, then fasten 10. Make the seats. Fasten three seat boards together with cleats, like
cleats across the boards. the top. Then nail a plywood template to the top of each seat and rout
around the template, using a guide bushing in your router.

P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 11

spacers are aligned with the sides of the 1/8" spacers between the pieces.
dadoes you just cut.) Glue and screw a Clamp the top pieces together (Photo
second stretcher on top of the spacers 7). Make the top cleats (K) and glue and
(Photo 2). You should now have two screw them to the top boards. Remove
identical stretcher assemblies. the clamps and place the base on the
These assemblies will nest together top. Fasten the base to the top (Photo 8).
with large half-lap joints. Draw these Get some help and turn the table over
joints in the center of each assembly. onto the floor.
When you lay out the joints, be sure You can use a jigsaw to cut the
that one notch will be on the top of the top into a circle, but a plunge router
assembly and the other notch on the equipped with a long 1/2" dia. straight bit
bottom. The angled ends are your guide will create a smoother surface. To guide
11 as to which side is top and which is the router, make a plywood trammel
bottom. Cut the notches on the tablesaw (Fig. E). Mark the center of the top and
(Photo 3). You can use a standard blade nail the loose square piece to the table.
or a dado blade. (If you use a dado blade, Remove the subbase from your router
don’t take off too much in one bite.) and fasten the router to the trammel.
Make the legs (D, Fig. C). Notch Place the trammel on the square piece
the top of each leg as shown. Round nailed to the table.
over the bottom ends of the legs with a Set the router to make a plunge cut all
router. To help assemble the legs, make the way through the top. To prevent the
a pair of spacing pieces that are the edges of the boards from splintering as
same width and length as the portion you rout around the circle, make a series
of the leg that extends below the cross of plunge cuts on both sides of each
stretchers. You can use offcuts from the board (Photo 9). Then reset the router to
legs or pieces of plywood to make these cut one-third of the way through the top
pieces. Clamp the spacers to the bottom and rout a full circle. Reset the router to
of the legs and insert the legs through make deeper cuts and keep routing until
the stretcher assembly (Photo 4). you’ve cut all the way through. Use a 1/8"
Fine-tune the position of the legs dia. roundover bit to ease the top’s edge.
by lining up their ends with a long
12 level or straightedge. Once the legs are ADD THE SEATS
aligned, clamp them in place. Run two Make the seat boards (L and M) and seat
lag screws through the stretchers and cleats (N). Glue and screw the cleats to
the legs (Fig. A). the boards (Fig. F). Make sure the cleats
are parallel to each other—a plywood
FINISH THE BASE spacer would help here.
Join the two stretcher assemblies Make a 1/4" plywood template for
together (Photo 5). For maximum shaping the seats. Nail the template to a
strength, use glue and screws. If you seat assembly (Photo 10). Use a plunge
intend to take the table apart for moving router equipped with a 5/8" o.d. guide
or storage (or just to get it out of the bushing and a 1/2" straight bit to rout
shop!), skip the glue and screws. around the template. Round over the
Make the long braces (E) and short seats’ edges.
13 braces (F). Cut dadoes in the center of Fasten the seats to the base (Photo
the long braces (Fig. A). These dadoes 11). Make the seat legs (P) and fasten
11. Fasten the seats to the base. This operation are oversized so you don’t have to be them to the cleats. Make the leg
is much easier if the table is upside down, extremely fussy when positioning the stretchers (Q) and fasten them between
but you’ll definitely need help turning it over. braces. Glue and screw all four braces to the legs (Photo 12).
12. Add the legs and a stretcher. Now the the legs (Photo 6). Drill or rout a hole in the tabletop for
seats will support plenty of weight—and even the umbrella pole (Photo 13). If you use
a few rambunctious kids jumping on them. ADD THE TOP a router, make a template with a 21/8" dia.
13. Rout a hole in the center of the table for an Cut the top boards (G, H and J) to hole and nail it to the top. Use the same
umbrella pole. Make a template with a hole length. Assemble them in a symmetrical guide bushing and bit as you used for
in it to guide your router. Add the umbrella pattern (Fig. D), using 8d nails or the seat. PW
and pour the lemonade!

P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM

12

Stylish If you’ve been thinking about beau-

tifying your patio, and you want to do
it in a weekend, I’ve got just the thing. This

Patio Planter
sturdy planter is made from readily avail-
able materials with simple joinery, water-
proof glue, and exterior stain for maximum
durability.
You’ll need two 12' cedar 5/4 x 6 deck
Strong, simple joinery provides lasting beauty. boards for the rails, one 8' cedar 2x4 for the
legs, and six 10' cedar 1x4s for the slats and
BY BRAD HOLDEN
bottom boards. When you’re at the home
center, dig through the lumber piles to find
the straightest boards with the fewest knots.

BUILD THE SLATTED PANELS

Start by cutting the rails to length (A–D,
Fig. A and Cut List). Joint and square one
edge, and then rip the rails to final width
(Photo 1). Where possible, rip off any loose
knots.
Rout a centered groove, 5/16" wide x 3/8"
deep, on one edge of all the rails (Photo 2).
Slightly chamfer the top edges of the bot-
tom rails (but not the ends), to promote
water runoff.
To make the slats, plane the 1x4s to 5/8"
thickness and crosscut them into workable
lengths. Joint one edge and then rip each
length 35/16" wide.
Rout 5/16" x 5/16" rabbets on both edges to
make the inside slats (E and Photo 3). Leave
about 8 lineal feet with only one rabbeted
edge, to make the end slats (F). The outer
edge of each end slat is square. Because
Handsome Patio Planter these slats go on opposite ends of the panel,
Overall Dimensions: 18 1/8"T x 12 1/2"W x 47"L the rabbets are on the front face on half of
them and on the back face of the other half.
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIALS
T W L Often, the 1x4s will have one good face and
❏ 2 (A) Side top rails 1 3 1/4 44 Cedar decking 5/4 x 6 (A) one not-so-good face. So, when you cut the
❏ 2 (B) Side bottom rails 1 3 3/4 44 Cedar decking 5/4 x 6 (A) end slats to final length, make sure that half
❏ 2 (C) End top rails 1 3 1/4 9 1/2 Cedar decking 5/4 x 6 (A) of them are rabbeted on the “good” face and
❏ 2 (D) End bottom rails 1 3 3/4 9 1/2 Cedar decking 5/4 x 6 (A) half are rabbeted on the “bad” face. This en-
❏ 26 (E) Inside slats 5/8 3 5/16 9 7/8 Cedar 1x4 (B, D) sures that only the “good” faces will show
❏ 8 (F) End slats 5/8 3 5/16 9 7/8 Cedar 1x4 (C, D) on the completed planter. Cut all of the
❏ 2 (G) Ledgers 1 1 43 3/4 Cedar decking 5/4 x 6 slats to final 97/8" length.
❏ 10 (H) Bottom boards 3/4 3 1/2 9 5/8 Cedar 1x4 Use a rabbeting bit to rout centered 5/16" x
❏ 4 (J) Legs 11/2 11/2 18 1/8 Cedar 2x4 5/16" tenons on both ends of each slat (Photo
❏ 16 (K) Tenons 3/8 11/4 13/4 BeadLOCK tenon stock (E) 4). Adjust the bit’s height and make test cuts
on scrap stock to dial in the thickness; use
A. Rout a centered 5/16"W x 3/8"D groove in one edge.
B. Rout 5/16" x 5/16" rabbets on both edges. the fence to set the length. Use a squarely-
C. Rout 5/16" x 5/16" rabbet on one edge. cut backer board with a screwed-on handle
D. Rout 5/16" x 5/16" tenons on both ends.
to support the workpiece and prevent blow-
E. Miter one end of each loose tenon.
ing out the back edge.
PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR
P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 13

Figure A EXPLODED VIEW 3/4" (typ.)

11/4" (typ.)
C 1/4" roundover (typ.)

G
H

3/8" x 11/4" x 7/8"

Mortise (typ.)
D

5/16" x 5/16" E
Tenon (typ.) F B
Chamfered edge (typ.)
5/16"W x 3/8"D
Groove (typ.) 5/16" x 5/16"
Tenon (typ.)
13/4"

11/4"
13/4" 1/8" gap (typ.)
K

1 3 5
1. Start by ripping the rails to width from 5/4 cedar boards.
2. Rout a centered groove in one edge of each rail, to
house the slats.
3. Rout rabbets on both edges of the inside slats, but on
opposite faces so that the ends look like a "Z." The end
slats are rabbets on only one edge.
4. Rout tenons on the ends of each slat, using a rabbeting
bit. Make one pass on each face. Use a backer board to
guide the workpiece and prevent blowout.
5. Assemble the panels. Spacers between the slats create
uniform gaps. Glue the end slats flush with the ends of the
2 4 rails. Nail the rest at the top and bottom.

P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM

14

6 8 10
6. Create mortises for loose tenons in the rails, using a Bead-
LOCK jig or other mortising tool. BeadLOCK tenon stock fits
the unique mortises shows here.
7. Mark the legs for mortising by transferring the layout lines from
the panels. Each leg will have mortises on two adjacent faces.
8. Glue and clamp the legs to the side panels. Swab glue in the
mortises and on the ends of each panel. Install the BeadLOCK
tenons; then install the legs.
9. Complete the planter by gluing the end panels between
the assembled sides.
10. Apply an exterior stain to add color and protection from the
7 9 rain and sun. Periodically reapply stain to maintain the finish.

Assemble each panel inside-face up. Use the offcuts from the 5/4 x 6 rails appropriate shims in the BeadLOCK jig
But before you start, mill a pile of 1/8" x 1" to make 1" x 1" ledgers (G) to support to center the mortises, and then drill.
x 2" spacers. Lay the rails on a flat work the planter’s bottom boards (H). Glue
surface. Then, starting with an end slat, and nail a ledger to the inside of both ASSEMBLE AND FINISH
slide each slat into position in the rails’ side panels, positioned at the height BeadLOCK supplies tenon stock that
grooves­­. Slip spacers between the slats you want. You can mount the ledgers you simply cut to length to create the
at the top and the bottom. Install the on the bottom rail and stack bricks to 13/4" long loose tenons (K). Miter one
remaining end slat to finish the job. position the pots, or you can let the end of each tenon—the end that goes
Make sure both end slats are flush with height of the pots or the amount of soil in the leg. Install the loose tenons when
the ends of the rails, that the assembly that you plan to use determine the led- you glue and clamp the legs to the side
is square, and that the inside faces of all gers’ location. panels (Photo 8). After the glue has set,
the pieces are oriented correctly. repeat the process to glue and clamp
Remove the end slats, apply water- MAKE THE LEGS the end panels between the side panels
proof glue, such as Titebond III and Make the legs (J) by ripping a 40" length (Photo 9).
then glue them into the rails, flush with of 2x4 into two pieces that are 1⁹/16" Apply the finish (Photo 10). I used
the ends. Make sure all of the internal wide. Plane the sawn faces to square the a lightly pigmented exterior oil-based
slats are evenly spaced. Then nail them stock. Then cut the legs to final length stain. The pigment provides a measure of
to the rails (Photo 5). and round over all the edges. UV protection, so the finish laster longer.
I used a BeadLOCK jig to drill the Lay one of the panels on a flat surface Place the bottom boards on the led-
centered 7/8" deep mortises (Photo 6). and position one leg so it protrudes 3/4" gers, leaving 1/4" to 1/2" between them for
Layout is simple. Just mark the mid- at the panel’s top and 11/8" at the bot- drainage.
point of each mortise on each rail, 11/4" tom. Transfer the mortise layout marks Line the planter with heavy-duty plas-
from the top edge on the top rails and from the panel to the leg. Then use the tic, poke some drainage holes, and fill it
13/4" from the bottom edge on the bot- marked leg to transfer the layout lines with soil; this is the perfect setup for a
tom rails. The jig comes with shims that to the other legs (Photo 7). Be sure to miniature herb garden. Or skip the soil
allow centering the mortises in stock of locate the mortises so that the legs’ and create instant color by filling the
different thicknesses. good sides will face out. Install the planter with potted flowers. PW

P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
 OUTDOOR PROJECTS 15

Outdoor Finishes
Simple to super durable.
BY BRAD HOLDEN

Outdoor finishes have one thing in EXTERIOR OILS

common; they all require mainte- An exterior oil finish is definitely the
nance. Of course, paint is unequaled simplest, quickest way to treat an out-
at protecting the wood from its two door project. On the downside, it’ll
biggest enemies: moisture and ultra- only give you about a year of protection
violet (UV) light. Moisture causes from the ravages of outdoor life. Oil
the wood to rot, and sunlight bleach- finishes don't provide a protective film
es out its natural color. Still, who that sits on top of the wood like varnish
wants to cover-up beautiful wood does. Instead oil soaks into the wood
with paint? If you want the wood to fibers and dries. Exterior oils have
show through on your outdoor proj- added trans-oxide pigments for UV protection and mildewcides to protect against
ects, you need a clear finish. mold and mildew. You’ll find colors ranging from dark brown to light amber.
There are three basic clear finishes Application is simple: a garden sprayer and a rag are all you need. First, flood the
for outdoor furniture: exterior oil, surface of your project with oil. I use an inexpensive hand pump garden sprayer. It’s
exterior varnish, and an epoxy sealer fast, easy and cost efficient. Let the oil soak in according to the manufacturer’s direc-
with an exterior varnish topcoat. Ap- tions, then wipe it off. That’s it—done! Depending on local conditions, you’ll have to
plication ease and service life are the reapply about once per year. The built-in UV protection should keep your wood look-
two major differences among these ing natural for many years (as long as you keep up with the applications).
finishes.
Of the three clear exterior finishes,
exterior oil is by far the simplest fin-
ish to apply. Just flow it on, let it soak
EXTERIOR VARNISH
in and wipe off the excess. Unfortu- OR URETHANE
nately, oil offers the least amount of Exterior varnish or urethane (both finishes
protection and it must be reapplied are technically “varnishes”) builds a protec-
every season. Exterior varnish, on tive layout over the wood. It offers superior
the other hand, is more difficult to protection and durability over an oil finish.
apply: up to 8 coats have to be care- Often, the term “Spar” is found in the name,
fully brushed on. While exterior var- but this does not indicate any additional or
nish offers excellent protection from special ingredient. The term “Spar” originates
moisture and UV light, it has to be with its use as a coating for the spars on sailing
recoated every few years to main- ships. All exterior varnishes are formulated to
tain that protection. An epoxy sealer protect again moisture and UV radiation.
with an exterior varnish topcoat is Exterior varnish is applied with a natural bristol brush in multiple coats. Manu-
the most durable outdoor finish and facturers recommend eight thin coats for maximum protection and a deep lustrous
can last for many years. However, the finish. Sand the hardened varnish lightly between each coat.
initial application does take longer Exterior varnishes cure to a more flexible film than ordinary varnish. The flex-
than exterior varnish. ible coat isn’t as likely to crack from seasonal wood movement caused by humidity
extremes in an outdoor environment.
Exterior varnish will usually last 2-3 years before it starts to look chalky. As soon
as you see a chalky film start to develop, it’s time to freshen the finish. Simply sand
the topcoat smooth and apply a new coat of varnish. Don’t put this important main-
tenance step off too long or cracks will develop in the finish allowing moisture to
penetrate and degrade the wood. That’ll necessitate a complete strip and refinish to
restore the furniture. You don’t want to go there.
PHOTOS BY VERN JOHNSON
P O P U L ARWO O D WOR K IN G .COM
16

EPOXY WITH EXTERIOR VARNISH

An epoxy sealer with exterior varnish topcoats is the most
durable, but also the most labor-intensive finish you can ap-
ply to outdoor furniture. This is the finish favored by builders
so you know it’s going to last a long time. Epoxy and exterior
varnish enjoy a symbiotic relationship: The epoxy forms an im-
penetrable moisture barrier that prevents seasonal swelling and
shrinking of the wood. This dimensional stability in turn gives
longer life to the exterior varnish because it no longer has to
stretch and shrink with the wood. The exterior varnish returns
the favor by providing UV protection, without which the epoxy
would rapidly deteriorate.
Apply three thin coats of epoxy. The best way to get thin,
even coats is to use a foam roller cut in half. It works kind of
like a squeegee. Epoxy cure times vary depending on their for-
mulation and the ambient temperature. Be sure to use an epoxy
with a long enough open time (approximately 30 minutes), so
it doesn’t set up before you’re done putting it on. For large proj-
ects, mix the epoxy in small batches so you can finish an area
before the epoxy sets. Also, for optimal flow out and penetra-
tion into the wood fibers, make sure the epoxy you use doesn’t
contain any thickeners. Always read and follow the instruc-
tions that come with your epoxy. If possible, apply the epoxy
undercoat prior to assembling the parts. You can recoat with-
out sanding while the previous coat is still soft but not sticky. Sand out any unevenness and defects in the cured epoxy before
If the epoxy seems uneven or bumpy, allow it to harden. Then, applying the exterior varnish topcoats.
sand it smooth and apply the next coat.
Before applying the varnish topcoats, I use a card scraper or
sanding block with #120 grit sandpaper to level the cured ep-
oxy. The sanded surface also provides some tooth for the spar
varnish to adhere to.
Rinse the sanded epoxy with clean water and dry with paper
towels. The rinse water should not bead on the surface. Beading
indicates that contaminants from the epoxy curing process are
still on the surface and could interfere with the varnish bond.
To remove the contaminants, wipe down with mineral spirits
and dry with paper towels or a rag. Follow this with eight coats
of exterior varnish, sanding lightly between coats. PW

Suggested Supplies
EXTERIOR OIL EPOXY WITH EXTERIOR VARNISH
• Penofin penetrating oil finishes; Original Blue Label Oil • West System® 105 Epoxy Resin (32 fl oz);
Wood; www.penofin.com www.leevalley.com; $62.50
• Hand-Held 1.5 Litre Pressure Sprayer; • West System® 205 Fast Hardener (7 fl oz);
www.leevalley.com; $29.95 www.leevalley.com; $33
• West System® Pump Set of 3;
EXTERIOR VARNISH OR URETHANE www.leevalley.com; $24.50
• Varathane, Clear Gloss Oil-Based Exterior Spar Urethane;
www.rustoleum.com

P O P U L A RWOOD WO R K ING.COM
Everyone,
SOHDVHȴQG
your seat

Small Adirondack Kitchissippi

Chairs Chair
Full-scale templates
• Upright backrest and high seat
provide effortless exit
• Built with standard lumber sizes
• Simple construction
Plans and Instructions

Plan and Instructions

Full-scale
templates
• Three sizes included
• Simple construction
• Built with standard
lumber sizes
Blade packaged

*)
Blade
Lame
05L32.01
séparément.

separately.
separately.
emballée
packaged
W22356p@BDDAf

packaged
Blade packaged

emballée
05L30.01
séparément.
separately.
separately.
Blade
Lame
“Tiny” “Small” “Medium” “Classic”
012345 (not included) “Kitchissippi” “Classic” 012345
(not included)

Veritas Tools Inc. Ottawa ON K2H 1C2 Canada veritastools.com Innovation in tools is a registered trademark of Veritas Tools Inc. © Veritas Tools Inc. 2019 034 PCD-141_A Veritas Tools Inc. Ottawa ON K2H 1C2 Canada veritastools.com Innovation in tools is a registered trademark of Veritas Tools Inc. © Veritas Tools Inc. 2019 139 PCD-140_A

Kitchissippi Chair
Set of 3 Small Plan 05L30.01
Adirondack Chair
Plans 05L32.01

No matter your height, Veritas® has a chair plan that’s just right for
you. The small Adirondack chair plans include three scaled-down size
variations of our classic Adirondack chairs, while our Kitchissippi chair
SODQLVGHVLJQHGWRUHGXFHWKHH΍RUWQHHGHGWROLIW\RXUVHOIRXWRIWKH
chair. All plans can be built with standard lumber sizes and feature
full-scale templates, cutting lists and straightforward construction
notes. Excellent introductory projects for beginning woodworkers.

Adirondack Plus
Folding Chair Plan
05L05.40 Adirondack Plus
Adirondack Plus Chair/ Porch Swing Plan
Rocker & Festool Plan 05L05.20
05L05.01

Find these and other Veritas® outdoor seating plans online.

leevalley.com 1-800-683-8170
Step Up Your
Outdoor Lighting
Shine some light on your walkways, patios, decks and pergolas.
Modular and expandable, our selection of LED lighting not only
adds ambience to your exterior spaces, but also extends a
welcoming invitation to linger outdoors well after nightfall.
We have prepared a guide to assist you in planning your LED
lighting projects; request a copy of our LED Lighting Indoors &
Out catalog with your next order, or browse it online. Completed project

1-800-683-8170 leevalley.com