Yarn Hot Report
Yarn Hot Report
Yarn Hot Report
4,200
Open access books available
116,000
International authors and editors
125M
Downloads
154
Countries delivered to
TOP 1%
most cited scientists
12.2%
Contributors from top 500 universities
Abstract
1. Introduction
Every being in this world has an expiration date, even the world itself possibly
has one. This situation is the same for man-made products too. We produce them,
use them, and try to find a way to get rid of them, when the time comes. One of the
hardest questions of today comes to mind at this point: How will we manage the
resultant waste of the products we created? Should we dump the waste to proper
waste yards and reuse or recycle them? The answers to these questions are crucial.
Scientists, governments, and local authorities work for finding answers to these
questions. Wastes can be a problem for local authorities because of their environ-
mental effects.
There are different categories of wastes. According to Australian Waste Report
2016, these categories are masonry materials (asphalt, bricks, rubble, etc.), metals
(steel, aluminum, etc.), organics (food, garden organics, etc.), paper and cardboard
(liquid paperboard, magazines, etc.), plastics (PET, HDPE, PP, etc.), glass, hazard-
ous wastes, fly ash, and other wastes (including textiles and leather) [1]. Some
1
Textile Industry and Environment
of these waste types can be recycled and utilized as raw materials in same type of
products they belong in or in different products.
Textile wastes can be divided into two main groups: production wastes and
postproduction wastes. Production wastes are basically raw materials of each
production step which cannot be put into end product due to different reasons.
For yarn spinners, these wastes can occur during cleaning of the fibers or combing
out short-staple fibers from the long ones in combing machine, etc. These clean/
unclean wastes in fiber form or not can be reused. After spinning mill, there are
wastes in yarn and fabric forms, and they need recycling to be put again in produc-
tion. Postproduction wastes are generally worn out cloths, which can be recycled
and may be used again in textiles or utilized in other products.
Textiles include different raw material (fiber) types. Fibers used in textiles are
categorized into two main groups, which are natural and man-made fibers. Most
known examples for natural fibers are cotton (seed fibers), wool, silk (animal
fibers), flax (bast fibers), sisal (leaf fibers), and asbestos (mineral fibers). On the
other hand, polyester, nylon, acrylic (which are synthetic fibers), modal, viscose
rayon, and acetate rayon (which are regenerated fibers) are some of the examples
for man-made fibers [2]. Thereby, textile wastes have a great variety of raw material
sources. These wastes can be recycled or reused in different products. In 2017, global
fiber production exceeded 100 million mt. Polyester has around 51% of total global
fiber production. The second most important fiber is cotton, and it has approxi-
mately 25% of total global fiber production [3].
Textile wastes can be recycled/reused in textiles or other products. Other
product wastes can also be utilized in textile production. One of the most known
examples for this is PET bottles. PET bottles are collected, are recycled, and can be
used in textile products as “r-PET fiber.” r-PET fibers can be used in yarn produc-
tion, as 100% or in blends, thereby in most of the textile structures. There are vari-
ous studies about this topic. These studies cover spinning of the fiber, properties
of the fiber [4], properties of yarn, and fabric produced from this fiber and all [5].
Some of the researches are focused on using textile wastes in different products.
Mishra et al. used textile wastes to produce composites and tested the properties of
these composites [6]. Briga-Sa, Binici, and El Wazna used textile wastes as insula-
tion materials, and Briga-Sa indicated that they got results similar to polystyrene
(XPS) and mineral wool [7–9]. Shukla used PET fiber wastes to synthesize new
chemicals which can be used in different fields [10]. These examples show that
textiles are generally sustainable materials. There are too many studies dedicated on
this topic.
Liquid waste and solid waste are generated during the production of textiles.
Especially agriculture of cotton fiber, which is the subject of this study, and the
evaluation of the solid wastes that occur during yarn spinning are important for
sustainability and environment. These topics are really important for the future,
considering the increasing world population and decreasing agricultural areas.
Moreover, large amounts of water are consumed; pesticides and synthetic fertil-
izers are used during cotton growing. Especially pesticides have negative effects on
human health. The recycling/reusing of wastes occurring at every stage of textile
production will be positive in terms of reducing the environmental effects putting
them again in the production chain. Consumers are also becoming more conscious
about these effects and they seek environmentally friendly “green products” [11].
This should be considered by the producers.
Due to increasing fiber production, the amount of pre-consumer and postcon-
sumer textile wastes is increasing. According to a study Pinheiro and de Francisco
conducted with Brazilian clothing manufacturers, 167,850 kg of cotton was
consumed with these manufacturers, and 19,086 kg of cotton waste occurred in
2
Utilization of Cotton Spinning Mill Wastes in Yarn Production
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.85127
their productions. This means 11% of the raw material was left out as waste [12].
Moreover, as the amount of textile solid waste increases, the evaluation of these
wastes becomes more important. Therefore, the terms of sustainability and circular
economy issues come to the forefront in textile industry. This chapter is focused
on spinning mill wastes of textile wastes. Information about how textile wastes
occur in spinning mills and utilization of them in textiles are given. For this reason,
informations about spinning mill and wastes occurring in spinning mill were given,
initially.
3
Textile Industry and Environment
Figure 1.
Opening and cleaning lines of combed ring spinning [17, 18].
Klein classified cotton fibers used in short-staple spinning as virgin fiber (from
ginning mill), clean waste, comber waste, recycled fibers from dirty waste, and
fibers torn out of hard waste (roving, yarn, and twisted threads) [19]. Spinning
wastes and their sources are given in Figure 2.
Broken ends of sliver, lap, web, and filter strippings from draw frame, roving
frame, ring spinning frame, and rotor spinning frame are known as clean waste,
having more than 95% of good fiber. Comber and roving wastes’ good fiber ratio
is around 95–97%. Wastes generated in blowroom machines, and cards are dirty
wastes with 35–55% good fiber ratio. Besides, another dirty waste, flat and filter
stripping waste, has a higher amount of good fiber (65–80%). As the waste fibers
are processed in different number of machines and therefore stressed fibers, their
good fiber content is less than virgin fibers. For this reason, spinners prefer to feed
the waste fibers into normal spinning process, in a controlled manner, with a con-
stant percentage in order to avoid quality variations. Generally, wastes arising in the
mills can be returned to the same blend from which they arose; comber wastes are
mostly used in rotor spinning. In carded ring-spun yarn and fine rotor-spun yarn
production, waste fibers can be used, up to 5%, but for combed yarns, waste fiber
ratio can be lower, up to 2.5%. Higher waste fiber amounts can be used for medium
and coarser rotor yarns, about 10 and 20%, respectively.
Figure 2.
Spinning mill wastes in different sources.
4
Utilization of Cotton Spinning Mill Wastes in Yarn Production
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.85127
5
Textile Industry and Environment
Taguchi OA experimental design. They have used blend ratios, blending technique,
cylinder speed, and rotor speed as predictors. They have collected flat strips from
carding machines and recycled them. Besides, comber noils, untwisted roving
wastes, and Pneumafil wastes were directly used. They have produced virgin
cotton/spinning waste blended yarns with two different levels of blend proportion
(17/83 and 33/67) for both blowroom blending and draw frame blending. Their
model showed that blend ratio and rotor speed are the most influencing factors
for yarn quality. Reducing rotor speed improved the yarn evenness, imperfections,
and strength. Yarn strength was found lower with draw frame blending, but on the
other hand with this blending type, high portion waste containing yarns’ evenness,
imperfection, and elongation values are better than blowroom blending [26].
Halimi et al. investigated the effect of waste ratio (0, 12.5, 25, 37.5, 50, 62.5, 75,
and 100%) and spinning parameters (rotor type, rotor speed, and opening roller
speed) on the rotor yarn quality. Cotton wastes were collected from opening-
cleaning machines and cards processed to reduce impurities. Greek cotton was
chosen due to the suitable fiber length for blending with recovered fibers. They have
reported that yarn appearance, level of irregularity, and the yarn uniformity did not
affect up to 25% waste ratio [17, 18].
Celep et al. investigated the thermal comfort properties of the single jersey
fabrics produced from virgin/recycled cotton fiber-blended open-end rotor yarns
(100/0, 50/50, and 0/100). Recycled cotton fibers were obtained from fabric scraps
from garment industry. They have found that fabrics containing recycled cotton
fibers show higher thermal resistance and lower thermal conductivity, thermal
absorptivity, and air permeability and give a warmer feeling at first touch [27].
Recycled denim fabrics by using recycled cotton fibers (varying from 30 to 85%
blend ratio), recycled PES fibers, Tencel fibers, and virgin cotton fibers were pro-
duced. They have found that recycled fiber-blended yarns have higher unevenness,
IPI faults, and hairiness comparing to the standard yarns, resulting with noticeable
nubs in fabric surface. This case did not affect fabrics’ physical and mechanical
properties significantly but provides better abrasion resistance contrary to expecta-
tions from recycled products [28].
Yılmaz et al. have focused on the effects of different waste cotton fiber types
and the amount of waste in the blends (varying from 5 to 40%), on the quality of
conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. They have used preparation process wastes
(blowroom and carding) and Pneumafil wastes (sucked on the draw frame, roving
frame, and conventional ring spinning machines). They have found both for con-
ventional ring-spun and OE-rotor yarns that the blends containing pneumafil wastes
resulted with better yarn properties, while the blends with blowroom and flat wastes
caused worse yarn qualities. In general, flat waste fiber blends have higher neps and
hairiness values. They have concluded that when the waste percentage was increased
from 5 to 40%, yarn irregularity values increased up to 37 and 16%, yarn hairiness
increased by about 21–22%, yarn tenacity values decreased by 22, and 52%, breaking
elongation decreased by 7 and 38%, for ring-spun and rotor yarns, respectively. As
expected, with the usage of waste fiber, the most deteriorated yarn properties were
yarn unevenness in conventional ring-spun yarns and tensile properties in rotor
yarns. Their findings showed that the effect of waste fiber usage on knitted fabrics’
pilling behavior was significant and Pneumafil fiber blends increased the pilling
resistance, while for other waste fiber blends, on the contrary [29].
Béchir et al. evaluated the effect of recycled fiber ratio and number of recycling
passages on the yarn quality and predicted the quality of the blend using a math-
ematical approach. They have concluded that recycling process of cotton waste with
four passages gave an optimal global quality of fibers. Unevenness and IPI values of
blended yarns increased with the increasing of recycled fiber ratio in the yarn [30].
6
Utilization of Cotton Spinning Mill Wastes in Yarn Production
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.85127
Demiroz Gun et al. studied the dimensional and physical properties of the socks
made from the blend of reclaimed fiber and polyester fiber. As a result of the study,
they reported that reclaimed fiber can be used for production of socks, when the
blend of virgin polyester fiber and reclaimed fiber are used, and thus acceptable
quality can be obtained [31].
Yuksekkaya et al. used “yarn quality index” value, which was defined by Yunus
and Rahman (as Yarn Quality Index = (Strength × Elongation)/ Evenness), for
evaluating yarn quality in their study [32, 33]. It can be said that the most important
parameter in order to evaluate yarn spinnability is the yarn tensile strength. They
reported that generally, yarns produced from recycled fibers displayed better prop-
erties in terms of unevenness, yarn imperfections, and yarn quality index value. On
the other hand, they found that yarn tensile strength and fabric burst strength were
lower for recycled yarns and fabrics when compared to virgin ones [32].
The main objective of this study is filling the gap in the literature via investigat-
ing the properties of the yarns produced with cotton wastes, generated in different
sources. For this purpose, different waste types (card waste, blowroom waste, sliver
waste, and recycled cotton fiber from ecru fabric waste) and waste ratios (10/90,
30/70, and 50/50) were used in rotor spinning. As a pre-treatment and recycling
process, all waste types were processes in Micro Dust and Trash Analyzer (MDTA) in
two passages. Simultaneously, trash and fiber content of these wastes were analyzed,
and the fiber length specifications of wastes after recycling process were evaluated by
length control tester (Textechno). Length control tester is a mobile device for use in the
spinning mill, developed for the measurement of fiber length parameters on slivers or
cotton in tuft form. The test results of length control tester give information about the
mechanical stresses which the fibers undergo in the manufacturing process and opti-
mum settings of card, draw frame, or combing machines [34]. Besides, fiber contents
of the wastes were analyzed with MDTA, and test results are given in Table 1. Trash
analysis of the virgin cotton was performed from sliver form, resulting with high ratio
of fiber content. Subsequently, wastes were blended with virgin cotton fibers (in sliver
form) with the same machine. Then, Ne 20/1 open-end yarns were spun by using these
slivers on Rieter open-end machine (R40). Single jersey fabrics were knitted by using
Mesdan Lab Knitter with the same tightness factors under constant machine settings.
Waste type Fiber 2,5% SL* 50% SL ML* Fiber SFL* SFA* SFC* (AFIS Staple
content (HVI) (mm) (AFIS) hooks (mm) (%) short fiber gradient
(%) (upper (LCT (%) amount) (HVI
length) length) (%) uniformity
(mm) (mm) ratio)
Blowroom 45.74 25.27 9.24 15.62 5.3 7.26 56.4 38.0 38.4
Card 82.44 21.69 6.71 7.79 1.2 2.81 78.0 76.6 33.0
Sliver 82.11 27.63 11.62 11.04 0.4 11.04 44.5 15.0 42.0
Fabric 80.89 22.64 8.46 13.36 8.4 6.07 57.2 47.6 39.6
Virgin 99.41 27.67 12.50 20.59 4.8 10.38 42.5 17.4 42.5
cotton
*is corresponding to the test result given in brackets.
Table 1.
Fiber specifications.
7
Textile Industry and Environment
The standards of yarn and fabric tests applied were given below:
• Yarn strength test (Lloyd yarn strength tester) TS 245 EN ISO 262,
ASTM D 2256
The effect of waste type and blend ratio on the physical and mechanical proper-
ties of the yarns and the fabrics, produced with virgin/waste cotton fibers, were
statistically analyzed by using SPSS.
According to the results given in Table 1, the sliver waste and virgin cotton
fibers have similar fiber specifications, because of being a clean waste as mentioned
previously.
Physical and mechanical properties of the yarns were tested, and the test results
were given in Table 2. In addition, the fabric thickness, bursting strength, air
permeability, and pilling values of the fabrics were tested, and the test results were
Table 2.
Yarn test results.
8
Utilization of Cotton Spinning Mill Wastes in Yarn Production
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.85127
Waste type Waste/virgin cotton Fabric thickness (mm) Air permeability (l/m2/s) *Pilling (1–5)
Table 3.
Fabric test results.
given in Table 3. For better understanding and evaluation, yarn tenacity and burst-
ing strength values of different samples are given in Figure 3, respectively.
The effects of waste amount and waste type on yarn and fabric properties were
statistically analyzed (Table 4). The effects of waste amount on yarn and fabric
properties were found statistically significant, except yarn unevenness values.
According to the Student-Newman-Keuls test, the number of thick places and nep
values of the yarns produced with blowroom wastes were statistically significantly
highest, of all. In terms of yarn hairiness, the highest values belong to the yarns
produced with card waste, for all blend ratios. Card waste has the highest short fiber
amount, resulting with the yarns’ hairiness. For higher waste ratios (50/50), clean
sliver waste containing yarns show better yarn tenacity, close to 100% virgin cotton.
One of the main factors affecting measured fabric properties is yarn hairiness.
Yarn hairiness increases, and bursting strength decrease with the increase of waste
ratio, except when the waste type is sliver. Sliver waste/virgin cotton-blended yarns
have the lowest yarn hairiness values and highest bursting strength, even better
than virgin cotton, because of better fiber specifications.
Figure 3.
Yarn tenacity and bursting strength values of different samples.
9
Textile Industry and Environment
Thick places (+50%) 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.001* 0.087 0.700 0.005*
Nep values (+280%) 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.034* 0.011* 0.780 0.120
Yarn hairiness (H) 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.001* 0.001*
Yarn tenacity (cN/tex) 0.874 0.020* 0.002* 0.028* 0.000* 0.788 0.009*
Elongation at break (%) 0.013* 0.001* 0.321 0.026* 0.225 0.331 0.042*
Fabric thickness (mm) 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.063 0.383 0.488 0.039*
Bursting strength (kPa) 0.014* 0.237 0.030* 0.035* 0.021* 0.194 0.029*
Air permeability (l/m2/s) 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.014* 0.200 0.001* 0.472
*
Significant for α = 0.05.
Table 4.
The results of variance analysis of the effects of different waste types and waste ratio on yarn and fabric
properties.
Fabric pilling values show that blowroom and fabric wastes containing fabrics
have more pilling. Fabrics produced with card waste have a lower pilling degree and
higher short fiber content but lower short fiber length. Probably, short fibers are too
short to compose a pill in card waste.
4. Conclusions
In this study, the waste of yarn spinning mill and recycled cotton fiber from
fabric waste were blended different blending ratios (10, 30, and 50%) with virgin
cotton fiber. Ne 20/1 cotton open-end yarns were produced from these blends. The
yarn physical properties of these yarns were tested. The effects of waste ratio and
waste type on yarn properties were investigated. According to the test results, the
dirty waste (blowroom waste and card waste) used in this study showed a different
tendency from the clean waste (sliver waste and fabric waste fiber). The blowroom
and card waste occurred during the cleaning of the fibers. They contain too much
short fibers and vegetable matters. Especially, card waste contains the shortest
fibers used in this study. For this reason, the yarn hairiness values are greater than
the others. Besides, the yarn tenacity containing 50% card waste was lower than the
others. However, in case of the use of blowroom waste, the number of thick places
and the number of nep were found greater than the others. On the other hand, the
content of the blowroom waste in the yarns has not influenced the yarn properties
except for thick places and nep values up to ratio of 30%. When fibers recycled
from the fabric have been used, it has been seen that the results are similar to those
obtained when using the blowroom waste.
Fabric thickness, bursting strength, air permeability, and pilling values of
fabrics were tested. When the results are examined, the use of blowroom waste
up to 30% in the fabric has not affected the bursting strength adversely. However,
when the ratio increased to 50%, the bursting strength decreased. When card waste
was used, the values of bursting strength decreased as the waste rate increased. For
the bursting strength values, it can be said that it is possible to blend up to 50% of
10
Utilization of Cotton Spinning Mill Wastes in Yarn Production
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.85127
the cotton fibers recycled from fabrics. Depending on the yarn hairiness values, the
air permeability values of fabrics decreased as the ratio of waste fibers increased,
except for the sliver waste.
Today, the recovery of waste and its use in specific proportions within the yarn
blend is increasing day by day. According to the results of this study, it can be said
that the blowroom waste and the fiber recycled from the fabric gave similar results
and that the use of the wastes up to 50% did not affect the yarn and fabric proper-
ties adversely. It caused greater results in terms of only thick places and nep values
than the other ones. On the other hand, card waste can be used in yarn blends up to
30%, depending on the high short fiber content they contain. Sliver wastes showed
similar results compared to 100% virgin cotton fibers, as they are already clean
wastes.
According to test results of the pilling values of fabrics, the best values were
obtained when the card waste is used. On the other hand, the card waste has the
highest short fibers content. It is thought that the short fibers are easily removed
from the fabric surface after forming the pills in the fabric by itself and thus do not
cause deterioration in appearance.
Acknowledgements
Author details
© 2019 The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms
of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,
provided the original work is properly cited.
11
Textile Industry and Environment
References
12
Utilization of Cotton Spinning Mill Wastes in Yarn Production
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.85127
13
Textile Industry and Environment
14