Module 3 3rd Edition 2016 08 Oil Plam
Module 3 3rd Edition 2016 08 Oil Plam
Module 3 3rd Edition 2016 08 Oil Plam
Module 3:
Plantation Maintenance
Correct citation: Woittiez, L.S., Haryono, S., Turhina, S., Dani, H., Dukan,
T.P., Smit, H. 2016. Smallholder Oil Palm Handbook Module 3: Plantation
Maintenance. 3rd Edition. Wageningen University, Wageningen, and SNV
International Development Organisation, The Hague. 53 pages.
All content of this document, including the figures, is licensed under the
Creative Commons license BY-NC-SA 3.0.
Module 3: Plantation maintenance
Contents
1. IMPORTANT TERMS
2. GENERAL NOTES ON STORING AND SPRAYING CHEMICALS
3. COMMON NOXIOUS WEEDS IN OIL PALM
4. REMOVING NOXIOUS AND WOODY WEEDS
5. ESTABLISHING A COVER OF SOFT WEEDS
6. ACCESS AND HARVESTING PATHS
7. CIRCLE WEEDING
8. PRUNING
9. SOIL CONSERVATION
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List of figures
List of tables
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1. IMPORTANT TERMS
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Figure 6 shows the most efficient plantation layout. The plantation is divided
into the following areas:
The weeded circle, 1.5–2 meters in diameter, around the palm trunk
The harvesting path, every other row
The frond stack, in a U-shape around the palm, every other row
alternating with the harvesting path
The interrow, which includes all the areas outside the weeded circle
and the harvesting path
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Never store food in containers that were used for chemicals or fertilisers.
The most commonly used knapsack sprayers are the so-called ‘lever-
operated knapsack sprayers’ (see Figure 8). When using a knapsack
sprayer, be sure to follow these steps:
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Figure 7: Proper protective clothing for herbicide spraying (but the left hand glove is
missing!)
Spraying herbicides
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started, make sure that the sprayer is properly calibrated so that it is clear
how much water comes out of the sprayer every minute.
Prepare the sprayer and do the spraying following these steps (see Figure
9):
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Herbicides are often divided into two groups: contact herbicides and systemic
herbicides. These groups differ in their mode of action (see Figure 10).
Contact herbicides are toxic to the plant where they touch it. The most well-
known contact herbicide is paraquat. Systemic herbicides move into the plant
and are transported to the stem, roots, and other leaves. The most well-
known systemic herbicide is glyphosate. For an overview of the most
common herbicides used in oil palm plantations, see Table 1. Glyphosate,
paraquat and triclopyr are discussed in more detail below.
TABLE 1: SOME CONTACT AND SYSTEMIC HERBICIDES AND THEIR COMMON BRAND NAMES
Contact herbicides Systemic herbicides
Herbicide: Brand: Herbicide: Brand:
Paraquat Gramoxone Glyphosate RoundUp
Glufosinate Basta Metsulferon methyl Ally
Triclopyr Garlon
Figure 10: The mode of action of contact herbicides (left) and systemic herbicides
(right). A contact herbicide kills the leaves it covers but is not transported into the
stem or roots. Systemic herbicides are transported into the stem and roots and kill
the entire plant.
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Glyphosate [3]
Glyphosate will not damage the palms unless sprayed directly onto the
leaves or used carelessly and in excessive quantities
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Gramoxone [4]
Paraquat will not damage the palms unless sprayed directly onto the leaves
or used carelessly or in too large quantities
The active ingredient of these herbicides is triclopyr [6]. The most commonly
used brand in oil palm plantations is ‘Garlon’ (see Figure 12). Herbicides with
triclopyr kill woody weeds and most other weeds, but not grasses such as
Imperata cylindrica (alang-alang). Triclopyr is a ‘systemic herbicide’: it is
taken up through the leaves or through wounds in the bark. It becomes
inactive in the soil and it is rainfast within 2-4 hours after spraying.
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Common
Scientific name: Properties: Found in: Control:
name:
Woody weeds and shrubs
Melastoma Straights Fast-growing flowering shrub, unpalatable for animals,
All plantations Uprooting/ triclopyr
malabathricum rhododendron dominant on P-deficient soils
Clidemia hirta Soapbush Fast-growing flowering shrub, dominant on poor soils All plantations Uprooting/ triclopyr
Mimosa pudica Mimosa Fast-growing flowering shrub, unpalatable, thorny All plantations Uprooting/ triclopyr
Lantana camara Sage Fast-growing flowering shrub, toxic to livestock All plantations Uprooting/ triclopyr
Fast-growing flowering shrub, toxic to livestock,
Chromolaena odorata Siam weed All plantations Uprooting/ triclopyr
allelopathic
TABLE 2: COMMON NOXIOUS WEEDS
Ferns
Immature and young
Dicranopteris linearis Climbing fern, shade-intolerant, unpalatable
plantations
Stenochlaena palustris Midin/ kalakai Climbing fern, thorny, unpalatable Glyphosate application
Slashing at knee
Nephrolepis spp. Slow-growing shade-tolerant fern Soft weed
height
Herbs and creeping vines
Noxious in stands <5
Fast-growing shade-intolerant perennial creeping herb; Grazing; mowing;
years after planting.
Mikania spp. Bitter vine allelopathic; dominant on poorly drained and nutrient uprooting; glyphosate
Beneficial as livestock
deficient soils; very palatable application
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feed.
Shade-tolerant perennial herbaceous mat-forming
Noxious if too
creeper; stems up to 1 m tall; growing very vigorously
Asystasia gangetica Chinese violet dominant. Beneficial as
with high nutrient demand; edible; very palatable and
livestock feed.
rich in crude protein
Grasses Noxious during
Medium shade-tolerant grass with sharp edges to establishment and
Speargrass, Spraying or wiping with
Imperata cylindrica blades; dominant on poor and acid soils; young shoots immature phase;
alang-alang glyphosate
palatable unwanted in mature
stands
Shade-tolerant perennial creeping grasses with shoots
Ischaemum muticum; Grazing, slashing at
of maximum 60 cm height; competitive with oil palm; Soft grasses
Paspalum conjugatum knee height
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palatable; used as forage species
Module 3: Plantation maintenance
Background
Noxious weeds are weeds that are unwanted in a plantation. Weeds can be
noxious because they:
Grow and/or spread very fast
Are difficult to control
Take up a lot of fertilisers
Produce poisons in their roots to reduce the growth of other plants
(allelopathy)
Have spines or are dangerous in other ways
For an overview of common weeds in oil palm plantations, see Section 3. All
woody weeds are considered noxious weeds. If woody weeds or noxious
weeds are allowed to grow, the weeding will take much time and there may
be negative effects on the growth and productivity of the oil palms. Also,
more fertilisers may be needed and harvesting will take longer and becomes
less efficient, so the plantation becomes less profitable.
Goal
Standard
Timing
Frequency
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Manual weeding:
o Chisel/spade
o Bush knife
Chemical weeding:
o Bush knife
o Knapsack sprayer
o Protective clothing
o Measuring cup (50–200 ml)
o Clean water (50–100 L/ha)
o Herbicide (glyphosate/gramoxone and Triclopyr, 0.5–2 L/ha)
o Diesel
o Paint brush (for applying herbicides to woody stumps)
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Who
How
Manual weeding
Step 1. Pull out as many of the noxious and woody weeds as possible.
Make sure that most of the roots are also pulled out; if the weeds
just ‘break off’ above the ground they will usually come back very
fast.
Step 2. Cut the roots of the weeds that cannot be pulled out below ground
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level using a chisel or spade. Remove the weed and the roots
from the ground.
Step 3. Large bushes or trees should be dug out completely.
Step 1. Identify the noxious weed species that need to be removed using
Section 3. Do not simply spray all the weeds; this is bad practice,
the soil will be degraded, it is a waste of herbicide and it is bad for
the environment.
Step 2. Spray the noxious weeds with glyphosate or gramoxone:
Select a nozzle with a narrow cone to prevent spraying on
soft weeds or the oil palms
Spray the herbicide over the leaves of the weeds from
above
Remember that most herbicides work directly on the leaf
and are not taken up through the roots. For the best result,
try to get some herbicide on most of the leaves when
spraying.
The right amount of spraying is when the leaves are wet but
the water is not dripping off (then, it is too much!).
Do not spray all inter-row weeds but only the noxious ones
Step 3. If there are only a few Imperata cylindrica plants between the
good weeds, they can be wiped with glyphosate solution instead
of sprayed, using a sponge or piece of cloth.
All woody weeds are noxious weeds and should be removed from the
plantation. Woody weeds often cannot be killed with normal herbicides. If
they keep coming back, try the following:
Step 1. After reading the label and putting on all necessary protective
clothing, prepare the following solution:
1% Triclopyr or a similar herbicide (= 100 mL per 10 L
water)
5% diesel (= 500 mL per 10 L water)
Prepare the solution by first mixing the triclopyr in diesel and then
mixing the diesel with water. Note that the diesel may degrade the
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Option 1
Step 1. For each woody weed, scratch off some of the bark with a knife
(an area of a few square centimetres is enough).
Step 2. Wipe/brush the scratched surface with a solution of 5% Triclopyr
herbicide in diesel (no water is added, for example: 50 mL
Triclopyr in 1 L diesel).
Step 3. If any young shoots appear on the trunks that were treated, repeat
the treatment for these trunks after one month.
Option 2
Step 1. Cut the stems close to the ground. Make sure that fresh cuts are
made on all woody stems.
Step 2. Apply a solution of 5% Triclopyr herbicide in diesel directly to the
cut part of the stem (especially on the area just inside the bark).
Make sure you apply the triclopyr less than 4 hours after
cutting.
Step 3. If any young shoots appear on the trunks that were treated, repeat
the treatment for these trunks after one month.
Data recording
Date Time Location Activity Input Input Input Labour input Labour
type amount costs People Hours costs
16/01/13 Field 3 Removing Triclopyr 1L 180000 1 4 40000
woody weeds Diesel 5L 35000
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Goal
Standard
Timing
Frequency
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Cover plant seeds: usually 1–2 gram per 10 square meters (1–2 kg per
hectare)
o Calopogonium caeruleum: 1–1.5 kg per hectare [8]
o Calopogonium mucunoides: 1–3 kg per hectare [9]
o Pueraria phaseloides (also known as Pueraria javanica): 3–4 kg
per hectare [10]
o Mucuna bracteata: 200–300 g per hectare [11]
Who
How
To help the good weeds grow and reduce the growth of noxious weeds it is
useful to apply phosphate fertilisers as follows:
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Spread the P fertiliser evenly throughout the plantation, mostly in the inter-
row and over the frond stack.
TABLE 3: LIST OF THE MOST COMMON LEGUME COVER CROPS AND SOME OF THEIR
PROPERTIES [12].
Name Shade Sowing practices Other properties
tolerance
Calopogonium Very tolerant Needs scarification Very productive;
caeruleum tolerant of heavy
shade; Figure 14
Mucuna bracteata Tolerant Needs to be sown Good N fixation;
in a seedbed and good soil cover;
then planted; prevents soil
benefits from erosion
inoculation
Calopogonium Somewhat Needs scarification Pioneer species;
mucunoides tolerant short life span
Pueraria Somewhat Needs scarification Grows quickly; very
phaseloides tolerant palatable for
livestock
Legume cover crops are best sown at the time of land preparation, when all
the other weeds have been cleared. If there are many weeds, then the
legumes may still grow, but selective weeding will become very difficult. In
plantations where clear-weeding was a normal practice, legume cover crops
can be sown directly after spraying. For sowing or planting legume cover
crops, follow the steps below:
Step 1. Select the appropriate legume cover crop (see Table 3). They can
also be mixed to increase the chances of successful
establishment.
Step 2. Scarify the seeds, if necessary. Scarification is required to remove
the hard outside of the seeds, so that the seeds can germinate
faster and simultaneously. Scarification can be done mechanically
(with sandpaper), by using 70% sulphuric acid or by using hot
water [13]. The sulphuric acid method is the most common and
the most effective one, but the acid may not be widely available
and is a dangerous chemical, which is also difficult to dispose of
after use. Therefore the mechanical scarification or the hot water
treatment are recommended.
For mechanical scarification, use the following approach:
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Apart from sowing legume cover crops, the population of Nephrolepis ferns
can also be increased (Figure 15). To achieve this, pull the ferns from the
trunks of the palms (roots and all) and throw them in the inter-row. Some of
them may establish and start growing. The application of empty fruit bunches
promotes the growth of Nephrolepis ferns.
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Every six months slash all inter-row vegetation at knee height using a
bush knife.
Note: in some plantations it is considered a good practice to let the
ferns in the frond stack area grow over 1 meter tall.
Data recording
Date Time Location Activity Input type Input Input Labour input Labour
amount costs People Hours costs
16/01/13 Field 3 P fertiliser Rock 1000 kg 1500000 2 4 80000
application phosphate
20/01/13 Field 3 Sowing Legume 2 kg 400000 2 4 80000
legumes seed
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Goal
Create good access into the plantation for all management activities
Enable fast and easy harvesting
Standard
Timing
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Not when rain is expected that day (otherwise the herbicide is washed
away)
Usually done together with circle weeding
Frequency
Manual weeding:
o Chisel/spade
o Bush knife
Chemical weeding:
o Knapsack sprayer
o Protective clothing
o Measuring cup (50–200 ml)
o Clean water (50–100 L/ha)
o Herbicide (0.5–2 L/ha)
Who
How
Cut down all weeds on the path to ground level with a bush knife or
scrape away all weeds using a spade
If possible, pull out woody weeds with large roots. If they cannot be
pulled out, dig out the stumps with a chisel or spade
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For tall weeds (more than 50 cm) start with one round of manual weeding
and then spray the young re-growing weeds after one month or when the
weeds are at ankle height using the following procedure:
All harvesting paths should lead to a main path (or: ‘collection road’)
which is accessible for a car, truck or heavily loaded motorbike
If there are ditches or canals that need to be crossed install foot-
bridges which are:
o Strong and solid (will not collapse when a harvester with a full
wheelbarrow walks over it)
o At least 20 cm wide (best to use a wide plank or several planks
attached together)
o Well attached on both sides and not moving or wobbling (see
Figure 17)
If there are steep slopes:
o Dig out a ramp where a harvester with a heavy wheelbarrow
can pass easily
o Put a wooden plank over the ramp to prevent it from getting too
slippery
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Data recording
Date Time Location Activity Input type Input Input Labour input Labour
amount costs People Hours costs
16/01/13 Field 3 Path and circle Round-Up 1 L 75000 1 8 80000
weeding
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7. CIRCLE WEEDING
Goal
Loose fruits on the ground are easy to spot and to collect (Figure 18)
Harvesting can be carried out quickly and efficiently
Efficient application and use of fertilisers
Standard
Timing
Shortly before the peak season (so that harvesting can be done more
efficiently)
At the same time as path weeding (if possible)
Not when rain is expected that day (otherwise the herbicide will be
washed away)
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Frequency
Manual weeding:
o Chisel/spade
o Bush knife
o Rake
Chemical weeding:
o Knapsack sprayer
o Protective clothing
o Measuring cup (50–200 ml)
o Clean water (100–200 L/ha)
o Herbicide (0.5–1 L)
o Rake
Who
How
Pull out all vegetation in the circle or cut vegetation to ground level
with a bush knife, or alternatively scrape away all plants in the circle
using a spade (see Figure 19)
Rake weeds cut by a bush knife out of the circle
Avoid ploughing or disturbing the soil in the circle because it can
damage the palm roots
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Chemical weeding
If the weeds are tall (more than 50 cm), it is best to start with one round of
manual weeding and then to spray the young re-growing weeds after one
month, or when the weeds are at ankle height using the following procedure:
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Figure 20: Poorly weeded circle with loose fruits hidden below the weeds
Data recording
Date Time Location Activity Input type Input Input Labour input Labour
amount costs People Hours costs
16/01/13 Field 3 Path and circle Round-Up 1 L 75000 1 8 80000
weeding
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8. PRUNING
Background
Good pruning is necessary for the most efficient use of fertilisers and to
create an easily accessible plantation. Therefore the optimum number of
leaves should be kept on the palms.
Pruned leaves decompose fastest when they are in touch with the soil and
form an important source of food for palm roots. By stacking the fronds in a
box shape, the nutrients and the organic matter are spread out, and the
leaves decompose faster because the stacks are not too high. Stacking
leaves also keeps them out of the harvester’s way, and helps to prevent soil
erosion.
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The youngest leaves appear on the top and the older ones are at the bottom:
The leaves grow in spirals of eight (see Figure 21)
Leaf 1 is the youngest fully open leaf, on the top of the palm
The leaf beneath Leaf 1 is Leaf 9 (1+8, because there are eight leaves
on one spiral)
The leaf below Leaf 9 is Leaf 17
The leaf below Leaf 17 is Leaf 25, then Leaf 33, Leaf 41 and so on
About two new leaves appear per month. New leaves appear faster in young
palms and slower in old palms. An ‘inflorescence’ (= a stalk with many
flowers) is formed above each leaf, which can become male or female
(Figure 5), or be aborted (no inflorescence at all). If the palm is stressed (e.g.
by drought or lack of nutrients), more male inflorescences are formed and
more inflorescences are aborted. Female inflorescences form bunches which
are usually ripe about 16 months (32 leaves) after the supporting leaf has
appeared and six months after the inflorescence has opened.
Goal
Standard
Pruning only dead fronds in palms less than 4 years after planting
Pruning down to 48–56 fronds per palm (or: 2–3 fronds below the last
ripe bunch) for palms that are 5–7 years old
Pruning down to 40–48 fronds per palm (or: 1–2 fronds below the last
ripe bunch) for palms that are 8–15 years old
Pruning down to ~40 fronds per palm (or: 1 frond below the last ripe
bunch) for palms that are more than 15 years old
Fronds butts are cut off close to the trunk
Fronds are cut in two and stacked on the frond stack in a box-shape,
with the bottom part behind the palms and the top part between the
palms
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Timing
Shortly before the peak production season (so that harvesting can be
done more efficiently)
During the dry period (if possible)
Frequency
Who
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How
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Data recording
Date Time Location Activity Input type Input Input Labour input Labour
amount costs People Hours costs
16/01/13 Field 3 Pruning 1 16 160000
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9. SOIL CONSERVATION
Background
Soil erosion is the loss of fertile top soil. Soils in the tropics are often very
sensitive to erosion, because there is much rainfall which washes the soil
away from slopes. Once the soil is lost, it takes a long time to recover, and
the fertility of eroded area will be reduced during this period. It is difficult to
produce good yields on very eroded soils and soil erosion should therefore
be prevented as much as possible. In addition to the loss of fertile top soil,
erosion also usually results in the loss of fertilisers and organic material.
Goal
Standard
Timing
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Figure 24: Terracing and legume cover crop establishment on steep slopes.
Frequency
Fronds are stacked twice per year and after every harvesting round
Silt pits are established once, at the start of the rehabilitation process,
and maintained yearly
Platforms are established once, at the start of the rehabilitation
process, and maintained yearly
Frond stacking:
o Same equipment and materials as for pruning
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Silt pits:
o Excavator or spade
Platforms:
o Excavator or spade
o Measuring tape (5 m)
Who
How
Step 1. Stack some of the pruned fronds between the palm rows, along
the contour lines and parallel with the slope.
Step 2. Put some fronds between the palms in a straight angle from the
contour stack, in a ‘box shape’ to increase water catchment and
decrease run-off (see Figure 23).
Silt pits capture rain water flowing down the hill. Pits should be 1.5 m long,
0.5 m wide and 0.5 m deep.
Step 1. Dig one pit next to every other palm (in the middle between two
palms) following the contour line (see Figure 25).
Step 2. Heap soil from the pit on the upslope side, about 0.5 meter above
the pit.
Step 3. Stack fronds on the upper side of the soil heap to prevent
destruction of the heap or the pit during heavy rain.
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Step 1. Dig soil from the upper part of the circle and place it on the lower
part. Ensure the bottom (supporting) part of the platform is wider
than the top.
Step 2. Compact the soil at the downhill edge of the platform to prevent
washing away.
Step 3. Stack fronds just upslope from the platform to reduce water flows
[15]
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Figure 26: Oil palm platform (schematically) with the frond stack in light green
Data recording
Date Time Location Activity Input type Input Input Labour input Labour
amount costs People Hours costs
16/01/13 Field 3 Digging silt pits 4 8 320000
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Background
For keeping track of management and yield it is useful to have a good map of
the plantation on which all palms are indicated. On this map, dura and
pisifera palms and empty spots should also be marked. In addition, for pest
patrols and leaf sample collection it is necessary to select and mark ‘sample
palms’, because it is too much work to check or sample all palms. It takes
some time to map the field and mark the sample palms, but in the end it will
save a lot of time – even if no leaf sampling is done.
Goal
Standard
Timing
Frequency
Note: Each time sampling takes place (or once per year) check if the sample
palms are still healthy and clearly marked. If not, select another palm and/or
refresh the marking
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Paintbrush;
Blue and yellow paint;
Isometric or other paper (see Figure 27);
Optional: measuring tape, GPS.
Who
How
Plantation maps are usually drawn on isometric paper (see Figure 27). Each
palm should be indicated with a dot on the intersection of two lines (see
Figure 28). If there is no palm, put a cross or leave the spot empty.
Note: If the field is not rectangular, drawing it can be more difficult. Isometric
paper will only work when the palms are planted in the correct (triangular)
spacing. For rectangular (square) spacing, use simple mathematical paper
with squares. For other spacing, draw the plantation on white paper without
lines.
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(sometimes two).
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Figure 28: An example plantation map, including palms, empty spots, sample palms
(circled), the road (below) and a swamp area (top left)
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Are all the palms around that palm present (no empty
spots)?
Step 5. If the answer to one of the questions is ‘no’, move two palms
further into the row and check again.
Step 6. If the answer to all the questions is ‘yes’, mark that palm as
described above (in this case: ‘5 over 5’) (see Figure 29).
Step 7. Continue along the row, each time marking the 5 th palm (or two
palms farther along if the 5th palm doesn’t meet the conditions)
until you are two palms from the other end of the field. The palms
that are close to the edge of the field (one or two palms away)
should not be sampled, because they are not representative (for
example, they get more sunlight).
Step 8. Move on to the field boundary
Step 9. Move five rows further along the boundary at the other end. After
5 rows, mark the palm next to the boundary. This should be the
10th row after the start of the field, so the row number on this palm
should be 10. The palm number is the number of the last palm in
the row.
Note: If the field is not rectangular, it may be necessary to walk
back to the beginning of the row and count the number of palms
to determine the palm number.
Step 10. Move into the field and repeat step 8–13.
Step 11. Continue until the entire field is done.
Note: The number of the palms to mark depends on the size of the field. In
large fields (5–10 ha) it is better to take every 8th row and every 8th palm. In
even larger fields (more than 10 ha) you can take every 10 th row and every
10th palms. This is also what companies do.
If the field is not at all rectangular, try to select the palms as follows:
One palm in 25 (or in 64 or 100 in larger plantations);
Not the palms less than 2 lines from the boundary;
At least 4 non-sample palms between the sample palms in each
direction.
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