Hard Rev Limiter 1.2
Hard Rev Limiter 1.2
Hard Rev Limiter 1.2
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Contents
1 General Information
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Theory of Operation
1.3 Schematics
1.4 Board
2 Assembling the kit
2.1 Tools you will need
2.2 Parts Inventory
2.3 Surface mount soldering
3 Installing the parts
3.1 Preparing the solder pads
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Hard rev limiter 1.2.0 - Autosport Labs https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/Hard_rev_limiter_1.2.0
General Information
Introduction
The Autosport Labs Hard Rev Limiter is a module designed to disable spark when triggered by the MegaJolt Lite Jr. Ignition
Controller.
Theory of Operation
On OEM installations the Ford EDIS ignition module provided no in-built rev limit functionality, as this was instead provided
by a fuel cut mechanism controlled by the engine management system.
As a result, performance enthusiasts wanting a rev-limit feature with their EDIS ignition module must use an external
mechanism to disable the coil packs.
The simple solution which abruptly cuts power to the coils (such as a relay) presents a significant problem: Cutting power
while the coil is charging may trigger pre-ignition- with the same effect as if the spark timing was significantly advanced. At
elevated RPMs where rev-limiting normally occurs this may expose the engine to unacceptable stress.
Rather than completely cutting power, the approach taken by the Hard Rev Limiter module reduces current to the coil pack
to a level where spark is suppressed, and decreases the chance of mis-firing by allowing the current in the primary windings
to ramp down rather than be cut off abruptly.
Schematics
Under normal operation U1 conducts and passes full current to the coil pack. When triggered, the Mosfet is turned off and
current flows through the resistor array, reducing current in the coil pack primary windings and thereby suppressing spark
output.
The Mosfet transistor U1 was selected for it's extremely low on-resistance (0.0038 Ohms). This performance gives it a high
20A current rating in a tiny package without requiring a large heat sink.
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Board
The module is housed on a small, low profile board with the exclusive use of rugged surface mount components. The board is
sized to slide into one of the available slots of the MJLJ enclosure; or you can mount it to suit your application.
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This project makes exclusive use of surface mount components. While SMT assembly may seem daunting to some electronic
hobbyists, the use of appropriate tools, techniques and using reasonably sized components, like the 1206 SMT package, can
make surface mount easy enough after a bit of practice. Below are pictures some of the essential tools you'll need for this
project.
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Parts Inventory
Bill of materials
Part Number Description
U1 FDS6681Z P-Channel Mosfet
R1-R10 180 ohm, 1W SMT 2412
Q1 SMBT2907A PNP transistor
R11 10K 1206 SMT
R12 100K 1206 SMT
Soldering lead-less surface mount components usually involves tacking one lead down to the board to fix it in place and then
working on the remaining leads. With the smaller components, be careful to not apply excessive heat- just enough is needed
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to flow the solder into the joint. Excessive heat, at minimum, will cause small parts to slide off the pads, and at worst, can
destroy them.
Start by adding a small amount of solder to one pad of each component. Start with the power resistors, R1 - R10.
Again, only apply solder to one pad- Do not apply solder to both pads of the part. If you do, use solder wick to remove the
blob of solder from the other pad. Solder blobs on both pads makes it very hard to get the part flat onto the board when
soldering.
Next, apply a small solder blob to one of the pads for the transistor Q1, Mosfet U1, and R11 and R12.
For U1, best is to apply the solder to the pin closest to the Q1 label.
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Once the pads are prepped with solder, pick up one of the resistors with your tweezers and position it next to the solder blob.
Using the soldering iron, heat the blob until melting and then slide the resistor so that it is centered and square on the pads.
Repeat for the remaining resistors.
After all of the resistors are tacked into place, solder the opposite pads of each resistor. Realize that due to the large amount
of copper it may take extra time to heat the pad. 5 full seconds with a fine tip soldering iron should be enough to heat the pad
and resistor before applying solder. Pay close attention to verify the solder flows under and around the resistor chip.
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Install Q1. For kit builders, a 2N3906 PNP transistor has been supplied for ease of assembly. Insert Q1 with the orientation
shown, leaving enough lead length to fold the transistor flat against the board- this will be needed to ensure low profile
installations.
Soldering Q1
Using the same technique as the power resistors, install the 10K resistor for R11 and the 100K resistor for R12. Solder the
other side of the resistors.
Be careful - do not apply heat for too long on the other side of the resistor or the first solder pad will melt, sliding the part off
of the pad- requiring you to start over!
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Closeup detail
Caution: U1 is a static sensitive device- employ appropriate ESD precautions, especially when working in a extremely dry or
static prone environment.
The dot on U1's package denotes pin 1, which must be in the lower left hand side with the board oriented where the
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Install U1 by centering it over the pads and melting the solder blob previously prepared, tacking the part in place. Move to
the diagonal opposite pin, tack that in place and then work on the remaining pins.
Note: Due to the large amount of copper underneath the pins of U1, it will take extra long to get the pins to soldering
temperature- so be patient when soldering here.
Note 2: soldering U1 offers the rare opportunity to have solder bridges without consequences! U1 pins 5-8 are all connected
together, in addition to pins 1-3. Solder bridges are OK on these connected pins- just be sure to not bridge Pin 4 (Gate), which
connects to R11 and Q1.
Final Inspection
Inspect the board carefully to make sure all pads are properly soldered. The solder joints should be bright and slightly domed.
Pay particular attention to U1: Ensure pin 4 (Gate) does not have any solder bridges.
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It's up to the user to determine how to install the rev limiter module. Following are a couple of possible installation options.
Since the resistor array generates heat when rev-limiting is active, ambient temperature and air flow across the module will
affect the duty-cycle of the unit- meaning how often and long you'll be able to be 'on' the rev-limiter.
Freestanding installation
Depending on your engine's wiring harness layout, it may make sense to install the module free standing, mounted to a
surface, or installed into it's own enclosure.
The Rev Limiter board is sized to fit both the V3 and V4 controller. Rotate the controller to fit the enclosure rails.
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V4 Controller
Wire the Rev Limiter board to the +12V, Coil Power, Trigger and ground pads on the V4 board. Use 14 gauge wire for the
+12V and Coil Power pads and 22-18 gauge wire for trigger and ground.
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Slide the board into one of the slots above the main board.
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Cut a hole in the end plate, and route all wires outside the case, looping back to the MJLJ wiring harness plug;
Cut a hole in the end plate, externally expose the +12v and coil pack connectors, but connect the ground and trigger
with jumpers to the inside of the case.
Most ambitious: wire everything internally:
Jumper GND connection to MJLJ GND;
Jumper +12V connection to MJLJ +12V (14 gauge wire);
Use a thicker gauge wire (14 gauge) for MJLJ +12V power, if necessary, as the +12v supply will supply current
to the coil in addition to powering the MJLJ electronics;
Jumper trigger input to REV_LIMIT output on MJLJ board;
Cut the REV_LIMIT trace on the MJLJ board running from the ULN2003 to the REV_LIMIT connector pin.
The REV_LIMIT pin will now be the new COIL power supply..
Connect the Rev limit COIL output to REV_LIMIT pin on MJLJ connector.
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