Location via proxy:   [ UP ]  
[Report a bug]   [Manage cookies]                
Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 16

instructables classes

LESSON 3 :
with in

So far you've learned to control LEDs with code, which is one use of Arduino's outputs. This lesson
builds on outputs by adding inputs. Your Arduino board can be programmed to listen to electrical
signals and take actions based on those inputs. We'll put together a digital input circuit with a switch,
and an analog input circuit with a potentiometer (variable resistor).

A switch is a mechanical device that connects or breaks a circuit, often using a lever or button. Your
tiny tactile pushbutton is just one member of a very large and diverse family. To learn much more,
check out the switches lesson in the Instructables Electronics class.

Input/Output: Page 1
A variable resistor is a component with a changing electrical resistance. In addition to the
potentiometer (knob) used in this lesson, you may seek out other variable resistors to try, including
but not limited to: pressure sensors (force sensitive resistor aka FSR), light dependent resistors (LDR
aka photoresistor), and analog temperature sensors.

Supplies

To follow along with this lesson you will need:


Computer running Arduino software
Some of the items from the Adafruit Arduino Uno Budget Pack
Arduino Uno board
USB A-B cable
Half-sized breadboard
Breadboard wires
10K potentiometer
1 small pushbutton
1 red diffused 5mm LED
1 220-1K ohm resistor (any value within range OK)
1 10K ohm resistor

Plastic mounting plate for breadboard and Arduino


Small DC motor
PN2222 transistor
1N4001 diode

Input/Output: Page 2
Digital Input

Let's get ready to wire up a new circuit. Grab some breadboard wires, a red LED, 1K resistor (brown-
black-red-gold), 10K resistor (brown-black-orange-gold), and a small pushbutton from your kit. Give
your 10K resistor the same elbow+trim treatment as your other tidy resistors.

Input/Output: Page 3
First, connect the LED to Arduino pin 13 like you did in your first circuit, with a wire from pin 13 to the
positive lead of your LED, and a 1K resistor connecting the LED's negative lead to ground.

Input/Output: Page 4
Next, plug in the pushbutton so that it straddles the center dividing line of your breadboard. It should
click into place snugly. Connect the 10K resistor from one lead of the switch to the breadboard's 5V
power rail. Connect a wire to this same row and plug it into Arduino pin 2.

Input/Output: Page 5
Connect the switch's diagonal lead to ground.

https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/9IFe140QD43

Find this circuit on Tinkercad


Click "Start Simulation" in the Tinkercad Circuits module and try clicking (and holding) the
pushbutton to see what the code does. Click the "Code" button to see the sketch.

You can find this example in the Arduino software by navigating to File -> Examples -> 02.Digital ->
Button. Open it on your computer, and upload it to your Arduino Uno board. The LED should light up,
but turn off whenever you press the pushbutton.

Input/Output: Page 6
Follow along as we explore the code in more detail.

https://create.arduino.cc/example/builtin/02.Digital%5CButton/Button/preview?embed

The first lines of this program introduce constants, which are similar to variables in that they store a
piece of information. However as you might infer, constants don't change throughout your program,
and are therefore great for things like pin numbers. They take up less memory space than variables.
Row 39 configures Arduino pin 2 as an input, so we can "listen" to the electrical state of the
pushbutton.
In the main loop, a function called digitalRead(); checks the state of pin 2 (which will be either 5V aka
HIGH or ground aka LOW), and stores that state in a variable called buttonState. Row 48 contains
an if statement that checks to see if buttonState is HIGH ( == is a comparison operator, not to be
confused with = , which is an assignment operator). If the condition is met, the digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);

command is executed. If not, the code contained inside the else { is executed instead:
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); . If statements can exist alone, or with one or more else statements.

Have you noticed that your pushbutton circuit performs the opposite action from that described in the
code? I did that on purpose to stretch your mental muscles; let's discuss the switch circuit some
more. At rest, the switch leads are not connected to one another. Pin 2 is connected through a beefy
10K resistor to 5V. When the button is pressed, the switch leads are connected, which allows pin 2
to be connected to ground, with no resistor. Since electricity takes the path of least resistance, the
pin will sense the connection to ground strongly, and ignore the weak (10K) connection to 5V. But
when no other signal is present (when the switch isn't being pressed), that weak connection to 5V is
all the pin can sense. So the resistor is "pulling the pin up" to 5V, and so it's called a pull-up
resistor. Without one, pin 2 would be not connected to anything until the button is pressed. This is

Input/Output: Page 7
called "floating", and can result in random noise from static electricity and electromagnetic
interference. Similarly a resistor can be used to tie a pin to ground, which is called a pull-down
resistor.
So to change the function of the button, you can either change the wiring of your circuit, or change
the code. The latter is less work in this case, but it's important to remember that might not always be
the case when you're building projects on your own. Edit lines 47 (comment) and 48 (if statement) to
say LOW instead of HIGH:
void loop() {
// read the state of the pushbutton value:
buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin); // check if the pushbutton is pressed.

// if it is, the buttonState is LOW:


if (buttonState == LOW) {
// turn LED on:
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
}
else {
// turn LED off:
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
}
}

Upload the updated sketch to your Arduino Uno board, and check that the button now turns the LED
on instead of off.
Arduino pins have built-in pull-up resistors on many of the pins (tiny ones, inside the chip just for this
purpose), and you can access one by enabling it in the setup:
pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT_PULLUP);

Change this line of code in your sketch and remove the resistor from your circuit. Upload the code; its
behavior should remain the same.

The Serial Monitor

Input/Output: Page 8
Keeping track of everything going on in your program can be an uphill battle. The serial monitor is a
way to check in on different spots in your code by reporting back to the computer over the USB
cable.

https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/f8aWEyOM4IE

Find this circuit on Tinkercad


This circuit uses the same button configuration as the previous digital input circuit, but just doesn't
use the LED. Load up the code from this module or find it in the Arduino software by navigating to
File -> Examples -> 01.Basics -> DigitalReadSerial. Upload this code to your board and click the
Serial Monitor button in the upper right of the sketch window. You can also open the virtual serial
monitor in the Tinkercad Circuits module above (button at the bottom of the code editor).

Input/Output: Page 9
To create a serial connection, you should use Serial.begin(); inside your setup. The number 9600 is the
baud rate, or data speed, in bits per second (bps). Inside the main program loop, you can use
Serial.print(); to send information to the serial port. Serial.println(); does the same thing, but prints on a new

line. Line 24 in our code prints the current value of buttonState (HIGH aka 1 or LOW aka 0) to the
serial port. So with the serial monitor open, we have a live scrolling view of whatever the Arduino
senses at pin 2. The serial monitor is exceptionally handy when troubleshooting, since you can easily
compare what you think should be happening to what the Arduino is doing. You can also use serial
communication to talk between devices and much more, which you can read about in the Arduino ref
erence.

Input/Output: Page 10
Analog Input

To sense a gradually changing electrical signal, we'll use Arduino's analog inputs, located on the left
side of the board. These special pins are connected to the Arduino's analog to digital converter
(ADC), equipped to convert an analog signal between 0V and 5V into a range of numbers from 0-
1023 (zero counts as a value). Another powers-of-two size, 1024 is 2^10 bytes, aka 1KB. Grab one
of the blue potentiometers from your kit and plug it into three rows on your breadboard (with your
USB disconnected).

https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/eTYPBoTCSGN

Find this circuit on Tinkercad


Connect the center pin of the potentiometer to Arduino analog pin A0, and the other two pins to
power and ground respectively. Move your LED's control wire from pin 13 to pin 9, so we can use
PWM.

Input/Output: Page 11
You can get the code from the Tinkercad Circuits module as you have for previous lessons, or find
the example by navigating to File -> Examples -> 03.Analog -> AnalogInOutSerial.

Plug in your USB cable and upload the sketch to your Arduino Uno board. Open the serial monitor
and observe it and the LED as you twist the potentiometer.

Input/Output: Page 12
The values read by the analog input are printed in the first column, and the brightness values applied
to the LED are printed in the second column.

Let's take a closer look at the main loop of this program:

Input/Output: Page 13
This sketch uses the map(); function on line 39, which takes one range of numbers and massages it
into another range. It takes five arguments: the value to be changed, the lower bound of the value's
current range, the upper bound of the value's current range, the lower bound of the target range, and
the upper bound of the target range. So this line of code sets a variable outputValue to a number
between 0 and 255 depending on the position of the potentiometer.
The serial printing commands on lines 44-47 print text labels (inside quotes) and the values incoming
from the sensor and outgoing to the LED. Seeing these numbers change together in the serial
monitor can really help you understand how functions like map(); work. Keep this in mind when
composing and troubleshooting your own sketches!

Input/Output: Page 14
A Moment for Motors

The exact same code used to brighten and dim the LED in the previous circuit can also be used to
control the speed of a simple DC motor. This basic motor needs a few extra components to help
control it: a small resistor (use your 1K or try a 100 ohm marked brown-black-brown-gold), a NPN
transistor (we're using a PN2222), and a diode (1N4001). The resistor is used to protect the Arduino
pin from excessive current draw. The diode prevents the transistor from dumping any blowback
voltage anywhere it shouldn't (something motors are prone to doing). The transistor acts like an
electronic valve, allowing current to flow between its collector and emitter (PN2222 outer pins) in
proportion to the signal it receives at the base (PN2222 center pin). Transistors are handy for
controlling a rather power hungry component with a microcontroller pin, which can't deliver enough
current directly.

https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/7l0BoHp3X7A

Find this circuit on Tinkercad


Unplug your USB cable and build the circuit according to the diagram, minding the flat side of your
transistor (faces away from the Arduino in this circuit), as well as the stripe on your diode (on the side
furthest from the transistor). If you're using a different NPN transistor (like the 2N2222), your
transistor pin connections may be different than those pictured, so look up the datasheet to be sure
you're making the following connections:
Arduino pin 9 to transistor base through resistor
Input/Output: Page 15
5V to transistor collector through diode
Ground to transistor emitter
Motor wires to transistor collector and 5V (either orientation)

Power up your board and see what effect turning the knob has on the speed of the motor (use a
piece of tape to make it easier to see the motor shaft spinning).

The motor recommended for this circuit draws less than 250mA, but a larger one could require more
power than your computer's USB port can deliver. To power bigger motors, lots of LEDs, and other
circuits that use more power, you'll need to use an external power supply, such as an AC adapter or
battery pack. Additionally, for any larger of a motor, you'd also need a larger transistor. We'll learn
how to calculate your circuit's power needs in the next lesson, but by popular request, here's the
same motor circuit powered by an external 6V battery pack (separate power rails, common ground):

https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/9rJr3EylTCw

Find this circuit on Tinkercad


To learn more about transistors and use them in a project, check out the transistors lesson in the Inst
ructables Electronics Class. To learn more about motors and use them to build several fun robots,
check out the Instructables Robots Class.
You now know the basic building blocks of most Arduino programs, and have built a few circuits
demonstrating their utility. Great work!

Input/Output: Page 16

You might also like