Yotam Ottolenghi: Teaches Modern Middle Eastern Cooking
Yotam Ottolenghi: Teaches Modern Middle Eastern Cooking
Yotam Ottolenghi: Teaches Modern Middle Eastern Cooking
Ottolenghi
Teaches Modern
Middle Eastern Cooking
P H OTO G R A P H Y BY
Dylan + Jeni
T Y P O G R A P H Y BY
Travis Simon
Table of Contents
Homemade Condiments Brunch Spread
Smoky Marinated Feta 7 Middle Eastern Bread Spread 29
Labneh 10
Quick-Pickled Chilies 11
Vegetable Spread
Quick Lemon Paste 12 Roasted Eggplant Salad
With Quick Lemon Paste and
Saffron Water 13 Quick-Pickled Chilies 37
Quick Shatta 17
Rose Harissa 18
Main Courses
Mafalda Pasta
Mezze Spread With Quick Shatta 45
Roasted Cauliflower
Muhammara 21 With Harissa Chili Oil 47
2
If you want to know Yotam Ottolenghi—the elemental chef,
restaurateur, and columnist—start by looking at the titles of his cookbooks. He has written
eight, several of which have won James Beard awards and topped international bestseller
lists. There’s Jerusalem, named for his home city. Plenty and Plenty More, filled with vibrant
dishes to bring people together. And, of course, his modern-classic debut, Ottolenghi,
bursting with veggie stacks, colorful spreads, and delectable cakes and breads.
The latter title is a callback to Ottolenghi deli, the London establishment that helped
make Yotam a culinary darling. A collaborative effort between the Jewish-Israeli Yotam
and the Arab-Palestinian chef Sami Tamimi, the first location opened in 2002. With a
menu of bright platters and bold flavors, the storefront quickly earned a loyal following
and spawned a handful of other eateries across the city. As Yotam gained traction in the
restaurant world, he also began contributing a weekly cooking column to the Guardian.
His playful and approachable take on cooking—and emphasis on cross-cultural reci-
pes—won over readers around the globe. Soon, his name was synonymous with viva-
cious, vegetable-forward Middle Eastern cooking.
Over the years, Yotam has developed his own distinct vision of this cuisine, one that’s
bountiful and inclusive by design. His penchant for intense and contrasting flavors can
be traced to his childhood, where he reveled in a heady mix of Jewish, Arab, and Euro-
pean ingredients. Some of his formative memories involve seeing bunches of fragrant
parsley, mint, and cilantro at the market; the sweet aroma of fresh-baked flatbreads
wafting through the streets; vendors stuffing fried falafel into fluffy pita; stacks of
apricots, grapes, and pomegranates, all at peak ripeness. The result? A chef who loves
to “create drama in the mouth,” as he puts it. (Fittingly, his latest cookbook, released
October 13, 2020, is called Ottolenghi Flavor.)
“I love the idea that if you sit around a big table and fill it with delicious things, you get
people talking to each other,” he says. “I come from a part of the world with a lot of con-
frontation. The first barriers are always crossed around a table of food—that’s the power
of eating and dining. Food has an incredible ability to bring people together. I want you to
go into the kitchen without stress, share a delicious Middle Eastern meal with friends, and
be proud of what you created.”
Here, he hopes to inspire you, instilling you with confidence in your ability to cook Middle
Eastern cuisine. “It’s not so complicated,” he says. “It’s a skill, and it takes a bit of practice,
but once you try a few times, you can do it proudly.”
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5
Yotam grew up surrounded by markets bursting with intense
(and sometimes opposing) flavors. Understandably, his dishes go big on taste and con-
trast. The short recipes in this chapter will help you achieve that goal, too.
Flavor bombs are sometimes added to a dish during cooking. Other times, they’re driz-
zled, sprinkled, or spread on at the end, providing a crucial final flourish. Either way, the
right one can transform a plate or create a new balance therein. Dukkah, an Egyptian
nut and spice blend, brings crunch to dishes that seem too flabby; harissa or shatta are
chili pastes for ratcheting up heat and spice levels; sumac-marinated onions offer a hit of
acidity to a rich or fatty dish.
And while many of these condiments are available in stores, Yotam believes they’re worth
making on your own. Then your fingerprints will be on them, literally and figuratively,
making your food feel all the more special.
Smoky Marinated Feta
Serves 4 to 6 This flavor bomb is made method
by letting feta sit in an oil bath infused with
ingredients
garlic, lemon, bay leaves, and charred chili
flakes. Charring the aromatics adds an Place a small sauté pan over medium-
intense, smoky flavor to the oil, which the high heat. Once the pan is very hot, add
feta absorbs to beautiful effect. the garlic and cook for 3 to 4 minutes,
10 garlic cloves,
You’ll use this condiment in Yotam’s rec- turning halfway, until cloves are charred.
peeled
ipe for Pea Spread With Smoky Marinated
1 lemon; skin peeled Feta (see page 23), but the yield here is Add the lemon strips and bay leaves, and
into 6 strips
more than what you’ll need for that dish. cook for about 90 seconds until lightly
4 bay leaves That’s okay—marinated feta keeps for up charred.
2½ tsp chipotle chili to 5 days in the refrigerator (the flavors
flakes only get better the longer it sits), and it’s Add the chipotle chili flakes and cook,
equally delicious on toast or in a salad. stirring continuously, until well-toasted
250 ml olive oil
and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove
1 tsp flaky sea salt the pan from the heat, then add the oil,
1¼ tsp paprika salt, and paprika. Stir for about 30 sec-
2 blocks Greek feta onds to combine.
(360 g), cut into 1/2-
inch cubes Add the feta to the oil and stir gently so
that each piece of cheese is coated in
oil, then transfer the cheese and liquid
to a shallow container. Allow the feta to
marinate at room temperature if you’ll be
eating it within a few hours. Otherwise, re-
frigerate it in an airtight container. (If us-
ing later, take the feta out of the refrigera-
tor about an hour or so before you want to
serve it to allow the oil to come back up to
room temperature and desolidify.) Smoky
Marinated Feta keeps in the refrigerator
for up to 5 days.
7
Tahini Sauce
Makes about ¾ cup “Tahini is some- method
ingredients thing that runs in the veins of the people
in the Middle East,” Yotam says. “It's like
the olive oil of southern Europe.” Combine all the ingredients except the
60 g tahini paste This paste made from ground toasted water in a bowl and whisk to combine.
1½ tbsp lemon juice sesame seeds is ubiquitous in Middle Slowly add the water while whisking until
Eastern cooking, with some families the mixture is smooth and pourable. Taste
1 garlic clove, crushed
using it at every meal. Yotam’s favorite for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
A pinch of salt, brands come from Lebanon, Jordan,
or to taste
Palestine, and Israel—he likes to turn the Set aside at room temperature if using
3 tbsp water, plus 1 tsp plain paste into a versatile and velvety soon, or refrigerate in a sealed container
water, or as needed
sauce that can be drizzled over fresh if making ahead. Tahini Sauce keeps in
meat kebabs, chopped salads, roasted the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
vegetables, and more.
8
Confit
Garlic Oil
Makes about 1 cup This is the ideal con- method
diment to have on hand anytime you want
ingredients
to add a warm, mellow garlic flavor to a
dish. Cooking the cloves slowly leaves Combine all ingredients in a small sauce-
them slightly sweet—perfect as a garnish pan over medium-low heat. Cover and
or for mashing into a confit. You also get cook until the garlic is soft and just begin-
12 garlic cloves, peeled
a lovely garlic-infused oil that can be ning to color, about 20 to 25 minutes.
6 thyme sprigs drizzled over salads or used for dipping
1 green chili bread. Leave the lid on, remove from the heat,
200 ml olive oil You can play with this recipe by adding and set aside for 10 minutes; the garlic
other aromatics to the oil (sage leaves, or will continue to cook in the heat of the oil.
Salt
orange or lemon skin). Feel free to double
or triple the recipe, too: Cook the garlic Strain the oil into a clean glass jar and
in an ovenproof pan at 120°C/250°F with spoon in the garlic, thyme, and chili. Once
enough oil to submerge the cloves. Seal cool, transfer everything to an airtight,
the pan tightly with foil, and cook until the sterilized jar and store at room tempera-
cloves are soft and very lightly colored. ture for several weeks.
Store the cloves in their oil in an airtight jar
at room temperature for several weeks.
9
Labneh Dukkah on page 39), or it can be used like
cream cheese and spread across toast
with sliced cucumbers and a sprinkle of
za’atar. And it doesn’t always need to be
savory—Yotam likes to use it in lieu of
yogurt during brunch (see his recipe for
Labneh With Berries on page 31).
Makes 450 grams Labneh is a creamy, You can use any type of full-fat yogurt
concentrated yogurt beloved throughout to make labneh—sheep’s milk will be
the Middle East. It’s made by draining the tangier and cow’s milk creamier. The only
ingredients whey out of yogurt, leaving you with a type to avoid is set Greek yogurt, which
thick, rich condiment that can be used in won’t drain properly.
myriad ways.
900 g full-fat yogurt Labneh can be served as part of a
¾ tsp salt mezze spread, ideally drizzled with olive
Muslin or cheesecloth oil and herbs and scooped up with pita. It’s method
also lovely as a condiment alongside lamb
kebabs or roasted vegetables (see Yotam’s
recipe for Grilled Carrots With Labneh and Add the yogurt and salt to a medium bowl
and mix well to combine.
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Quick-Pickled Chilies
Makes about ¼ cup While raw chilies method
can be quite spicy, pickling them takes
ingredients
some of the edge off and adds a bit of
sweetness, saltiness, and a splash of Add the vinegar, sugar, and salt to a small
vibrant color to a plate. bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add
These chilies are truly a quick pickle the chilies, stir well to combine, and leave
2 tbsp apple cider
vinegar
and can be ready in as little as 30 min- to pickle for at least 30 minutes before
utes (though they’ll only improve with using.
1 tsp granulated sugar
time). Try them on everything from grilled
1 tsp salt vegetables to roasted chicken, as well as If not using immediately, store the chilies
2 small mild red in Yotam’s Roasted Eggplant Salad With in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
chilies, thinly sliced, Quick Lemon Paste and Quick-Pickled
seeds and all
Chilies (see page 37).
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Quick Lemon Paste
Preserving lemons opens a whole new method
avenue in terms of flavor. The combina-
ingredients
tion of salt, lemon juice, and time softens
and breaks down the lemon skin and Combine all ingredients in a small sauce-
turns it into a sharp, aromatic treat. Yotam pan set over medium-high heat. Simmer
stirs preserved lemon into dressings and until salt is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes, then
1 large lemon, end
trimmed, sliced into
sauces, mixes it into yogurt, and even lower the heat to medium-low. Cover and
1/4-inch-thin rounds, uses it with roasted vegetables (see his cook until the lemon rinds start to look
seeds removed recipe for Roasted Eggplant Salad With translucent, about 12 minutes.
4 tbsp lemon juice Quick Lemon Paste and Quick-Pickled
1 tbsp salt
Chilies on page 37). Set aside to cool slightly, then transfer to
You can buy preserved lemons at a food processor and blitz until smooth
many stores or you can make them your- and thick. Add a tablespoon of water
self, but bear in mind that they take time: if you need to thin out the mixture; the
two to three weeks of preserving in order result should be spreadable paste.
for the flavors to fully develop. But Yotam
has figured out a trick to speed things up, Transfer the preserved lemon paste to
creating a quick-preserved lemon that’s an airtight container and, if not using
similar in flavor and aroma. immediately, pour a thin layer of olive oil
The technique calls for boiling thin over the top. Cover and keep refrigerated
slices of lemon with lemon juice and salt, for up to 2 weeks.
then blitzing them in a food processor
until you have a thick, spreadable paste.
The end result keeps for weeks in the
refrigerator.
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Saffron
Water
Saffron Water can be used in both sweet
and savory productions, and a little bit
ingredients
goes a very long way. Stir a few drops into
a cheesy risotto or a crepe batter, or use it
to jazz up a sweet rice pudding.
Za’atar Oil
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And Everything Nice
Yotam’s flavor bombs hint at the multitude of herbs, spices, preserves,
and syrups found in Middle Eastern cuisine. Here are a few essentials that
are worth keeping in your pantry at all times
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Dukkah
Makes about ½ cup Dukkah, which butter (see his recipe for Grilled Carrots
means “to pound” in Arabic, is an With Labneh and Dukkah on page 39).
ingredients
Egyptian condiment made from nuts, Dukkah is one of those condiments
seeds, and herbs. It’s both crunchy that’s infinitely versatile: Try making
and aromatic, so it gets a lot of play in it with different nuts and spices, like
Yotam’s kitchen—he sprinkles it over pistachios, walnuts, black pepper, mint,
2 tbsp coriander seeds
panfried whitefish, scrambled eggs, and marjoram, za’atar, and more. You can also
1 tsp cumin seeds his grilled carrots drizzled with melted play with different consistencies—some
1½ tbsp black and dukkahs are quite powdery, and some,
white sesame seeds like Yotam’s, are more coarse. With a con-
30 g blanched hazel- diment this adaptable, it’s worth experi-
nuts, toasted menting to find a version you love.
30 g pine nuts, toasted
1 tsp dried oregano
½ tsp paprika
1/4 tsp salt
method
In a small saucepan set over medium
heat, toast the coriander seeds, cumin
seeds, and sesame seeds, shaking
the pan occasionally, until fragrant,
2 to 3 minutes.
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Sumac-Pickled Onions
Makes ½ cup Sumac is a crushed berry method
with a vibrant garnet hue and an acidic
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Quick Shatta
Makes about ½ cup Almost every for Mafalda Pasta With Quick Shatta
culture has its own version of chili sauce (see page 45).
ingredients
or paste. In the Middle East, the most There are many variations of shatta,
common one is called shatta. including ones made with tomato, parsley
Shatta is traditionally made by pound- (or other herbs), and different spices and
ing fresh red or green chilies with salt and vinegars. Play around to find a version
90 g mild red chilies,
such as Fresno
allowing them to ferment in the sun for a you like using different types of chilies
chilies (about 6), few days. More contemporary iterations and herbs, and more or less tomato
roughly chopped call for mixing everything in the food pro- (more tomato waters down the chili kick,
180 g plum tomatoes cessor and letting it naturally ferment in a so think about what you’ll be using your
(about 2), roughly sterilized jar at room temperature. Yotam shatta for).
chopped has developed an even faster version by
½ tsp salt, divided adding a bit of cider vinegar to develop
an acidic flavor in no time. His Quick
method
3 tbsp cider vinegar
8 tbsp olive oil
Shatta can be spooned over anything you
want to spice up—sandwiches, hummus,
rice, kebabs, roasted vegetables, soups,
and more. It’s also called for in his recipe Add the chilies, tomatoes, and salt to the
bowl of a food processor and pulse a few
times until coarsely chopped but not at
all puréed, scraping down the sides of the
bowl.
17
ingredients
40 g dried Kashmiri
red chilies or guajillo
chilies
25 g dried ancho
chilies
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tsp cumin seeds Rose Harissa
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1½ tsp caraway seeds
Makes about 1½ cups Harissa is a Pour enough boiling water over the
1 tbsp tomato paste North African chili paste that’s wonderful chilies to cover them, and then weigh
1 tbsp dried rose when stirred into soups and stews or them down with a small plate. Soak for
petals spooned over roasted vegetables and 30 minutes to soften and rehydrate, then
1½ tsp granulated meats. It’s called for in Yotam’s recipes strain. Roughly chop the chilies and add
sugar for Green Herb Shakshuka (see page 33) them to the bowl of a food processor.
1½ tsp Kashmiri chili and Roasted Cauliflower With Harissa
powder, or paprika Chili Oil (see page 47). Meanwhile, add the cumin, coriander, and
2 tbsp lemon juice Store-bought harissas are available caraway seeds to the same pan, and toast
1 tbsp rosewater, by the jar or tube at many Mediteranean over medium-high heat until fragrant, 2 to
divided markets or online at Kalustyan’s, but 3 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a mortar
4 tbsp cider vinegar making your own is a fun and easy way and pestle and roughly crush them before
to customize the flavor, as Yotam does adding them to the food processor along
1/2 cup olive oil, divided
here with the addition of rosewater and with the chopped chilies, garlic, tomato
1½ tsp salt dried rose petals. A word to the wise: paste, rose petals, sugar, and chili powder
Harissa has a serious kick, but you can or paprika. Pulse a few times until roughly
remove the stems and seeds from the chopped and combined.
chilies after they rehydrate to bring the
heat level down. Add the lemon juice, half of the rosewater,
the cider vinegar, 4 tablespoons of olive
oil, and a pinch of salt to the food proces-
sor. Blitz until you have a coarse paste.
method
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and gently
stir in the remaining rosewater and
Place a large frying pan over high heat. remaining 4 tablespoons of olive oil.
Once the pan is very hot, add the chil-
ies and garlic. Toast until fragrant and Transfer the harissa to a sterilized airtight
charred, about 2 minutes. Pick out the jar and keep refrigerated if not using right
garlic and set aside. Transfer the chilies away. Harissa keeps, covered with a layer
to a heat-proof bowl. of oil, in the refrigerator for several weeks.
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In many parts of the world you’ll find tables laden with
small dishes, all beautifully arranged. These colorful bounties are designed to whet the
appetite, start a meal, or even serve as the main course itself. This is known as the mezze
spread, and it’s welcoming and generous in spirit.
Mezze is popular in Morocco, Spain, Greece, Italy, Israel, Palestine, and elsewhere. The exact
recipes change from place to place, but the idea is generally the same: major flavor, minor
fuss. This often means spreads, dips, or little bites, all usually served with bread for scoop-
ing. It’s the ultimate informal feast, enjoyed with a glass of something good (wine, vodka,
aniseed liquor) and a group of friends. And when it comes to mezze, manners get thrown
out the window. Everyone tucks in together, rubbing elbows and using forks as fencing
swords. Double dipping is not a crime—as Yotam likes to say, we’re all in this together.
If you’re going to serve a mezze spread, there are a few things to keep in mind. First,
there’s the matter of making things in advance—cooking and serving so many different
dishes in one meal is a lot of work. Fortunately, many mezze components can be made
well ahead of time, and plenty of dishes taste better the next day. Most cooked salads
and legumes offer this luxury, as do slow-cooked meats.
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Pea Spread
With Smoky
Marinated
Feta
ingredients
100 g Smoky Marinat-
ed Feta, plus 3 to 4
tbsp oil from marinade
600 g frozen peas,
defrosted
10 g tarragon leaves,
roughly chopped
15 g mint leaves,
roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 lemon; 1½ tsp finely
grated zest, 2 tbsp
juice
method
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt Serves 4 This is a slightly different
mezze in that it uses barely cooked peas.
Freshly ground black
pepper It’s not traditional in any sense—it doesn’t
have the depth of richer, long-cooked Make the Smoky Marinated Feta (see
½ tsp cumin seeds,
toasted and roughly mezze dishes—but it pairs well with other page 7).
crushed in a mortar mezze like hummus and muhammara
and pestle because it’s so light and vibrant. Frozen Add the peas, tarragon, mint, garlic, lem-
peas work as beautifully here—they have on zest and juice, olive oil, a pinch of salt,
the same bright green color and grassy and a bit of freshly ground black pepper
flavor as their fresh counterparts. to a food processor, and pulse a few times
Mezze dishes need big flavors, which until you have a coarse paste. Taste for
here comes in the form of a marinated seasoning and add more lemon or salt
feta topping. if necessary—it should taste very bright
The feta adds richness, saltiness, and and fresh.
a bit of smoke to the dish and offsets the
sweet, bright flavor of the peas. Spread the pea mixture onto a plate and
Try to spread this mezze on a dark- top with the Smoky Marinated Feta, being
colored plate or platter for maximum sure to add some of the garlic cloves and
visual contrast, and serve it with warm lemon strips from the marinade as well.
flatbreads or crudités on the side. Spoon a generous amount of the aromat-
ic smoky feta oil over the spread (about 3
to 4 tablespoons), and then sprinkle the
dish with cumin.
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The Big World of Little Eats
You’ve already learned how to make a few of Yotam’s favorite dips and salads,
but there are countless other mezze recipes to try. Want to expand your
horizons? Round out your table with some favorites from around the world
24
Hummus With
Confit Garlic
and Tahini
ingredients
60 g Tahini Sauce
12 confit garlic cloves,
plus 4 tbsp Confit Serves 6 In Jerusalem, hummus is a po- but cover it with plastic and gently press
Garlic Oil larizing topic—every family and restau- down on the surface to prevent a skin
550 g cooked chick- rant believes they know the “right” way from forming.
peas (see Basic Chick- to make it, but the truth is that there is
peas, right, or canned) no one right way. One thing that’s not up
for debate is that freshly made hummus,
method
180 g to 210 g tahini
paste (depending on served slightly warm and at the center of
brand)
the table, is worth the extra effort.
Salt Homemade hummus starts with
1/4 cup lemon juice cooking your own chickpeas, which you Make the Tahini Sauce (see page 8).
5 tbsp plus 2 tsp can learn more about in the sidebar at
ice-cold water, plus the right. Once the chickpeas are cooked, Make the Confit Garlic Oil (see page 9).
extra Yotam has a few more tricks to help
1½ tbsp parsley, finely you reach hummus nirvana: two types Set about 100 grams of the cooked chick-
chopped of tahini (tahini paste and tahini sauce), peas aside in a small bowl.
confit garlic (not traditional but delicious
nonetheless), and a garnish of whole Add the remaining chickpeas, tahini
cooked chickpeas tossed in a light garlic paste, 8 of the confit garlic cloves, ½
and parsley dressing. teaspoon salt, and the lemon juice to the
Serve hummus as part of a mezze bowl of a food processor and blitz until
platter with bread and crudités. Plain smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. With the machine
hummus can be made ahead of time, running, slowly drizzle in the ice water
25
Basic Chickpeas
Makes 550 grams
The key to lip-smack-
26
27
Every morning when he was growing up, Yotam’s mother
would lay out a beautiful spread of fresh bread, vegetables, cheeses, yogurt, eggs, cold
cuts, and coffee. For the family, starting the day on a full stomach was its own kind of joy.
Now that Yotam is an adult, his breakfasts are often a rushed affair, hastily thrown togeth-
er while he tries to get out the door on time.
This is why weekend brunches get special reverence. It’s when Yotam has time to luxu-
riate in the cooking process, making an array of sweet and savory dishes to linger over
as people come and go. Breakfast transitions into lunch, conversation ebbs and flows,
everyone grazes. The table never looks empty.
Fundamentally, brunch is a democratic meal. You’re creating a spread (think jellies and
jams, yogurt, granola, cheese, smoked fish, breads, spreads, dips, and more), then letting
your guests pick their favorites. Fresh flavors and snack-friendly portions also allow ev-
eryone to fill up while still eating relatively light. The focal point of an Ottolenghi-approved
brunch spread is an egg dish, which here is his Green Herb Shakshuka: something sub-
stantial but not overly heavy, endlessly versatile, and, of course, visually enticing. Those
rich, orange yolks are just waiting to be popped.
29
Breaking Bread
There’s so much more to Middle Eastern
bread culture than the humble pita—
and it’s all worth exploring
Slice the pita into quarters and arrange Or try a stuffed flatbread, like gözleme. Made from
it on a platter or large wooden board. a thin, unyeasted dough, this is a perennial favorite
from Turkey. Popular fillings include minced meat
Place the Za’atar Oil alongside the tomato and onions, spinach and cheese, or assorted vegeta-
and pita. bles. Cooked on a griddle, it can be served flat, rolled
into a wrap, or folded up into a handheld snack.
Arrange the feta on the platter or board
and drizzle with the honey and remaining
tablespoon of olive oil. Nestle the radish-
es and fresh herbs alongside and serve.
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Labneh With Berries
Serves 6 This display of the season’s 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the berry purée into a
best produce can double as a brunch mixing bowl and set aside.
for the
accompaniment or light dessert. It’s a
layered platter of rich homemade or Add all of the remaining berries, the blue-
orange oil store-bought labneh topped with multi- berries, and the cherries to a large bowl
ple kinds of sweet, juicy berries and a bit along with the blitzed fruit, and stir gently
of orange-infused olive oil. to combine. If not using the topping im-
100 ml good-quality The berries you use are totally up to mediately, keep the mixture refrigerated,
olive oil
you—try using what’s in season at the bringing it back up to room temperature
10 g lemon thyme or moment. You can also use frozen berries, before serving.
thyme sprigs, plus
a few extra picked
which are often less expensive and just
thyme leaves to serve as high quality. And while some people To serve, spread the labneh onto a large
1 orange; 6 strips of
may balk at the idea of putting olive oil platter, smoothing it out with the back of
skin finely shaved on a sweet dish, fear not—this oil has a a spoon. Spoon the berry mixture over
mellow, grassy flavor punctuated by floral the labneh. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of
orange peel. You’ll make more oil than the orange oil, then top with a few strips
you need here; store any extra in a glass of orange skin and the picked thyme.
for the jar to drizzle over salads or lightly cooked Lastly, sprinkle with the lime zest and a
32
method
Green Herb
Shakshuka
Make the Rose Harissa (see page 18).
33
35
At Ottolenghi restaurants, Yotam’s abundant and inviting vegetable
displays recall the beautiful market stalls of his youth. He plays with colors, textures, and
proportions because he recognizes that we eat with our eyes first.
Believe it or not, the same alluring aesthetic that Yotam achieves in his own kitchen can
be achieved in yours, too. The beauty of showcasing produce is that these ingredients
are often at their best when cooked ahead of time, which makes kaleidoscopic veggie
spreads perfect for delighting friends and family. And, like Yotam, you shouldn’t be afraid
of going big.
Think back to your most memorable meals: Chances are many of them revolve around a
sense of largesse. You can make any meal feel celebratory by bringing out large platters
and presenting fresh veggies and grains. The trifecta of recipes in this section, when
taken together as a whole, hit every flavor and texture sensation. The soft eggplant salad
is garnished with a bitter preserved lemon paste; the carrots and labneh are all about
the interplay between sweet and sour; the cucumbers provide a welcome crunch and a
grassy, herbaceous flavor. Mix, match, and share generously.
Roasted Eggplant Salad
With Quick Lemon Paste
and Quick-Pickled Chilies
Serves 4 Eggplant is a somewhat In a large bowl, toss the eggplants with
misunderstood vegetable—many people 4 tablespoons of oil, ¾ teaspoon of salt,
ingredients find it intimidating for no good reason.
One of the simplest and best methods for
and a good grind of pepper. Spread
the eggplants out in a single layer on a
cooking eggplants is to slice and roast, as parchment-lined baking tray and roast,
1¾ tbsp Quick Lemon Yotam demonstrates here. turning over halfway, until deeply golden
Paste Eggplant is an excellent base for salads and cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes.
2 tbsp Quick-Pickled and mezze dishes, thanks to its meaty Set aside to cool.
Chilies texture and incredible ability to absorb
20 g pistachios, lightly and carry flavors. It pairs well with almost In a large bowl, mix together the dill,
toasted and roughly anything: loads of fresh herbs, grilled or parsley, basil, Quick Lemon Paste, maple
chopped roasted meats (especially lamb, which is syrup, a pinch of salt, and the remaining
2 lbs large Italian fragrant and fatty), and dairy (yogurt or 6 tablespoons of oil. Add the cooled egg-
eggplants (about 3 salty feta cheese). Once you know how to plant and toss until well coated.
eggplants), trimmed
and cut into 1-inch- cook it, it’s an easy and impressive show-
thick rounds piece for a vegetable-laden table—there’s Arrange the eggplant on a plate and
10 tbsp olive oil, always at least one eggplant dish on dis- top with the Quick-Pickled Chilies and
divided play in the storefront at Ottolenghi cafés. chopped pistachios.
Salt In this recipe, Yotam uses a mixture of
dill, parsley, and basil, though you can feel
Freshly ground black
pepper free to substitute other soft green herbs
such as cilantro. He adds a bit of Quick
10 g dill, roughly
chopped Lemon Paste and Quick-Pickled Chilies
for complexity and kick.
5 g parsley, roughly
chopped
10 g basil leaves,
roughly chopped
1½ tsp maple syrup
method
Make the Quick Lemon Paste
(see page 12).
37
ingredients
400 g labneh
3 tbsp dukkah
2 lbs carrots (from
about 1 large or 2 small
bunches), with greens
40 g tarragon, roughly
chopped
8 tbsp olive oil, plus 2
tsp olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black
pepper
3 tbsp runny honey
1½ tbsp apple cider
vinegar
39
Grilled Carrots
With Labneh and
Dukkah
Serves 4 The humble carrot, with its and a pinch of salt. Blitz until completely
striking color and sweet flavor, is one smooth, about 2 to 3 minutes, scraping
of Yotam’s favorite vegetables. Carrots down the sides if necessary. Set aside.
can be eaten raw, steamed, roasted, or
grilled; here, they’re steamed so they Remove the carrots from the steamer and
stay tender and crisp, then grilled to transfer to a large plate or bowl. Toss with
create a smoky aroma. the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil,
Yotam layers the carrots with tart, ½ teaspoon of salt, and a good grind of
creamy labneh and tops them with a pepper.
sprinkle of dukkah, a nutty, crunchy,
completely delicious Egyptian condi- Place a grill pan over high heat. Once
ment. The finished product is a com- it’s smoking, grill the carrots, working in
posed platter of varying textures, colors, batches if necessary to avoid overcrowd-
and intense flavors. ing. Turn the carrots occasionally until
This is a great recipe if you’re enter- lightly charred on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes.
taining, as the carrots can be steamed
and grilled ahead of time. Plate them While the carrots are cooking, make the
with the labneh and dukkah just before dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together
serving. the honey and apple cider vinegar with a
pinch of salt and pepper.
40
Smacked Cucumber
Salad With Sumac-
Pickled Onions
Serves 4 All around the world, cucum- Use the side of your knife to smack the
bers are used to balance heavier starch cucumbers until they’re slightly bruised
ingredients
or meat-centric dishes. In Eastern and and breaking apart. Use a spoon to
Northern Europe, they’re sometimes scoop the seeds out of the middle of
mixed with dill and some cream. In Asia, each half and discard. Roughly chop the
they’re often mixed with sesame oil and cucumbers into 1-inch pieces. Transfer
½ c Sumac-Pickled
Onions
rice vinegar. And in the Middle East, to a bowl and season with 1 teaspoon of
they’re key ingredients in the chopped salt, tossing to combine, then set aside
1 tsp white sesame
seeds, toasted
salad. for 30 minutes. Drain the cucumbers
Smacking the cucumbers here is a through a fine-mesh strainer, discarding
1 lb Lebanese or
Persian cucumbers
great stress reliever, but breaking them the salty water.
(from about 6 to 8 up also allows them to absorb the fla-
cucumbers) vor of the parsley oil more easily. Salt- Meanwhile, make a parsley oil. Add the
Salt ing them for about half an hour before parsley, garlic, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and the
20 g parsley leaves
dressing draws out any excess moisture, olive oil to a food processor and blitz until
resulting in a salad with a more concen- completely smooth.
1 garlic clove, finely
chopped
trated flavor and texture.
You can use English or hothouse cu- Add the drained cucumbers, Sumac-
5 tbsp olive oil
cumbers if you prefer them to Lebanese Pickled Onions, and a few tablespoons
or Persian cucumbers, and removing the of parsley oil to a bowl and toss well to
seeds is not absolutely essential. Play combine. Transfer to a serving plate and
around with making oils out of other sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
herbs, too—Yotam uses parsley here, but
cilantro or dill are just as refreshing. Transfer any leftover parsley oil to
an airtight container and store in the
refrigerator for up to 3 days.
method
Make the Sumac-Pickled Onions
(see page 16).
41
43
Many home cooks feel anxious about entertaining—often
there’s so much pressure to make an incredible meal that will look and taste great, not
to mention impress friends and family. But you don’t need to reinvent the wheel at every
dinner party.
Yotam generally recommends making dishes over and over again to hone your skills,
then incrementally introducing new ingredients and techniques. Once you have a sense
of a recipe and have cooked through it a few times, you’ll begin developing the necessary
confidence to improvise. There’s plenty of time for this type of experimentation, but when
you’re feeding a large group, it might not be the best moment to try something untested.
It’s okay to play it safe with a recipe you know will work.
Beyond that, Yotam encourages you to consider a few key questions when hosting. First
and foremost: What kind of cook are you? Is your favorite part of the process shopping
for unique ingredients, or would you rather just order that za’atar online? Do you love the
challenge of cooking something new, or does the art of mastering a recipe through rep-
etition appeal to you? From his perspective, cooking should be about comfort, ease, and
the joy of feeding others. Set yourself up accordingly.
ingredients
complex uses. Serving pasta with a warm stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes.
yogurt sauce is common around the East- Set aside.
ern Mediterranean, particularly in Turkey,
Greece, and the Balkans. It’s a deeply In a bowl, combine the yogurt, cumin,
4 tbsp Quick Shatta,
plus extra to eat
satisfying combination that tastes fresh cornstarch, egg yolks, 1 tablespoon of oil,
alongside and creamy—without using cream. and a pinch of salt, and stir to combine.
1 butternut squash
If you serve pasta with yogurt, it’s Pour the mixture into a large sauté pan
(2 lbs), peeled, seeded, important to cut through some of the set over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring
and cut into roughly richness, otherwise the dish can become often, until thickened and just beginning
1-inch cubes cloying and one-dimensional. That’s to bubble, about 15 minutes.
1 onion, peeled and where the butternut squash, shatta (chili
roughly chopped sauce), and fried garlic come in—togeth- Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-
7 tbsp olive oil, divided er they make a balanced, textural, and salted water to a boil and add the pas-
Salt colorful meal that you can serve straight ta, cooking it according to the package
Freshly ground black
from the pan. instructions until almost al dente, usu-
pepper It’s important not to mix cold yogurt ally around 6 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of
6 garlic cloves, thinly
with hot sauces too quickly, or the yogurt cooking water to add to the sauce. Using
sliced may split. Here, Yotam uses egg yolks a spider or slotted spoon, transfer the
500 g full-fat Greek
and cornstarch to help thicken and sta- pasta to the pan with the yogurt sauce
yogurt, at room bilize the yogurt sauce and prevent this along with the reserved pasta cooking
temperature from happening. water, and stir gently to combine until the
1¼ tsp ground cumin sauce is smooth and creamy.
1½ tsp cornstarch
Stir in half of the roasted squash and
2 egg yolks
200 g mafalda or
method onion, and taste for seasoning. Spoon the
remaining squash and onion over the top
farfalle pasta
of the pasta.
5 g parsley leaves, Make the Quick Shatta (see page 17).
roughly chopped, plus
extra picked leaves to
Drizzle with a few spoonfuls of shatta,
garnish Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F. depending on how spicy you like it, serv-
ing the remaining alongside, and then
Add the squash, onion, 3 tablespoons of top with the fried garlic oil. Sprinkle with
oil, ¾ teaspoon of salt, and good grind parsley and the remaining 1 tablespoon of
of pepper to a parchment-lined baking olive oil.
sheet, and toss well to combine. Roast,
stirring halfway, until vegetables are
softened and charred, about 30 minutes.
Set aside.
45
47
Roasted Cauliflower
With Harissa Chili Oil
Serves 4 to 6 Cauliflower is a humble little smaller than the pan to ensure they
vegetable, but if you douse it in lots of oil stay submerged. Transfer the wedges to
48
Salmon
ingredients and Prawns
in Spicy
Tomato Sauce
¾ c Tahini Sauce
9 tbsp olive oil, divid-
ed, plus 1 tsp olive oil
7 garlic cloves, 6 thinly
sliced and 1 crushed
25 g (about 2) Fresno
chilies, thinly sliced
15 g (about 1½) dried Serves 6 This salmon dish is made in particular recipe he substitutes a rich
ancho or cascabel the spirit of generosity, featuring two tahini sauce for the feta, which adds body
chilies, stems and types of seafood in a simple yet flavorful and nuttiness.
seeds removed and
sauce. It also makes quite an impact on This is a very forgiving dish—it’s hard
very roughly chopped
the table (present it on a beautiful platter to overcook the salmon in the moist
2 tsp caraway seeds
with a bit of pomp and ceremony). sauce, and there’s nothing precious about
3 tbsp tomato paste The sauce is inspired by chreime, a the rustic presentation. The sauce itself
3 large plum toma- spicy cooking sauce with roots in Tunisia can be made up to 2 days in advance if
toes, diced and Libya. There are many variations on you’re entertaining, and the salmon can
1 tsp granulated sugar chreime, but they all include tomatoes easily be swapped for another fish such
Salt or tomato paste, oil, garlic, and spices, as trout or cod (just adjust cooking times
all of which is cooked until everything is as necessary). Serve it alongside warm
15 g cilantro, roughly
chopped, plus 2 tbsp a bright red. Fresh or dried chilies and bread for a complete meal.
extra to serve caraway seeds are commonly added, but
1 2½ lb side of salm- cumin is a fine substitute for caraway if
you can’t find it. Yotam uses ancho chil-
method
on, skin and pin bones
removed ies to give the sauce a sweet and almost
300 g peeled extra- tobacco-esque tinge, which contrasts
large shrimp nicely with the fresh Fresno chilies.
½ tsp paprika The salmon would be impressive on its Make the Tahini Sauce (see page 8).
own, but Yotam adds prawns as a nod to
prawns saganaki, a Greek dish that also Add 4 tablespoons of oil to a large sauté
features tomato sauce and feta. For this pan set over medium-high heat. Once
49
hot, add the sliced garlic and Fresno
chilies, and cook until fragrant and lightly
colored, about 3 minutes. Add the ancho
or cascabel chilies, caraway seeds, and
tomato paste. Cook, stirring often, until
fragrant and the tomato paste is a deep
Pretty, Please
red, about 1 minute. A quick primer on plating your
meals with restaurant-level poise
Add the fresh tomatoes, sugar, 1 cup of
water, and 1½ teaspoons of salt to the There’s an old saying in culinary school: “Appeal
pan with the garlic and chilies. Bring to is half the meal.” That advice isn’t just for aspiring
a simmer, then lower the heat to me- chefs. Yotam often speaks about making striking
dium-low and cook at a low simmer, visual displays with his food, both as a way to attract
stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes customers and to enhance the natural beauty of the
have broken down and the sauce has ingredients he’s showcasing. But how, exactly, does
thickened slightly, about 12 minutes. Stir one create a dish that pleases the eye as much as
in the cilantro, reserving about 1 table- the palate? Start with these three tips:
spoon for the finishing oil.
Balancing Act
Preheat the oven to 220°C/400°F. Look at the recipe’s components, then consider
how you’ll arrange them so their physical attri-
Season the salmon with 1 tablespoon of butes complement one another. Often this means
olive oil and ¾ teaspoon of salt. Season pairing contrasting elements. Take Yotam’s recipe
the shrimp with 1 tablespoon of oil and for Grilled Carrots With Labneh and Dukkah (see
¼ teaspoon of salt, and set aside. page 39): To plate this dish, he spreads a base
of smooth, creamy, white labneh on the bottom
Transfer the tomato sauce to a roasting of a platter, drizzles it with brightly colored tar-
tray or dish large enough to fit all or most ragon oil for contrast, then places the carrots on
of the salmon. top, scattering crunchy dukkah over them before
serving. In a single dish you get opposing textures
Transfer the salmon skin side down to (smooth and creamy, charred, crunchy), colors
the roasting tray on top of the sauce, (white, bright green, orange), and shapes (a swoop
tucking the tail underneath if it’s too of labneh, pointy carrots, powdery dukkah).
long to fit. Roast for 10 minutes, then
remove from the oven and nestle the More Is More
shrimp into the sauce, avoiding the top Some chefs prefer an austere style with lots of neg-
of the salmon. Return to the oven until ative space on the plate, but Yotam believes in the
the shrimp are just cooked through, idea of plenty. He prefers to arrange platters in high,
3 to 5 minutes. artfully loose piles. He’ll also finish them with an ad-
ditional glug of olive oil or a sprinkle of fresh herbs,
Make a paprika oil. Add the remaining all of which signals the concept of joyful abundance.
3 tablespoons of oil, the crushed garlic,
and the paprika to a small frying pan Step Up to the Plate
set over medium-high heat. Cook until Servingware with eye-catching patterns and hues
the oil just begins to bubble and the enhances the appeal of your food. Antique shops,
garlic is fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes, then garage sales, and online resources like Etsy or
remove from the heat and stir in the 1stDibs are great places to find one-of-a-kind piec-
remaining cilantro. es. You want variety here, and it’s fine if things don’t
match. Riffing on incongruity is part of the fun in
Remove the salmon from the oven and creating a riotous feast.
drizzle generously with the Tahini Sauce.
Spoon the paprika oil over the top, along
with a final drizzle of olive oil. Serve warm
with any extra tahini on the side.
50
for
the sweet
spiced
lamb
2 lbs boneless lamb Celebration
Rice With
necks (about 4 pieces)
Salt
Freshly ground black
Saffron
pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled
and Sweet
and roughly chopped
50 g ginger, peeled
and roughly chopped
Spiced Lamb
3 vine tomatoes,
roughly chopped
1 white onion, peeled
and roughly chopped
2 jalapeños, roughly
chopped
20 g cilantro leaves Serves 6 to In Yotam’s estimation, rice
and stalks, plus 5 g is the one single ingredient that binds
extra, chopped cultures and cuisines around the world
1 tbsp ground cumin together. The beauty of rice is that it can
1 tbsp ground cinna- be a humble side dish or stand in the
mon spotlight. No Middle Eastern household
1½ tsp ground allspice is complete without some type of cele-
bratory rice dish. Often these dishes are
150 g Greek-style
yogurt, at room tem- labors of love; they have several com-
perature ponents that are cooked separately and
5 g parsley, roughly combined together to beautiful effect.
chopped This dish is Yotam’s version of Iranian
jeweled rice—a dish studded with fruit,
nuts, and spices and, in this case, topped
with tender braised lamb and a yogurt
for the gravy. It’s very much in the Ottolenghi
rice
layers of contrasting colors and textures.
A few tricks here: Soak the rice for at
least half an hour (or up to overnight)
before cooking it. Doing so will make it
¼ tsp Saffron Water
very light and fluffy. Don’t overmix the
30 g unsalted butter cooked rice after adding the saffron; you
5 whole cloves want some distinct sections of yellow and
3 whole cinnamon white rice. If you can’t find lamb neck,
sticks look for lamb shoulder or other stewing
(cont. on page 53) or braising cuts, such as pork shoulder.
Serve with a simple chopped salad or
grated tomato, if you'd like.
51
52
400 g basmati rice,
method covered, and let rice sit off the heat for
washed well and another 15 minutes.
soaked for 30 minutes
to overnight Preheat the oven to 165°C/330°F. While the rice cooks, make the garnish.
Salt Add the raisins, barberries, and apple
Pat the lamb dry and season all over with cider vinegar to a bowl, and set aside to
½ teaspoon of salt and a good grind of plump up for at least 15 minutes. Add the
pepper. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof butter to a medium frying pan set over
for the saucepan or Dutch oven set over medi- medium-high heat and allow to melt. Add
53
“I'd love for you to cook
with new ingredients, and
make vegetables that taste
and look really sexy.
So go get creative, play
with your vegetables, and
get experimental in the
kitchen.” -Yotam
55