Fermented Dairy Foods

R. L. SELLARS
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc.
9015 West Maple Street
Milwaukee, Wl

INTRODUCTION of intestinal and other human and animal dis-

Fermented or cultured dairy foods offer orders of bacterial origin. Bailey and Shahani
exceptional nutritional and healthful attributes (57) reported that specific strains of Lacto-
to society. The dairy industry is fortunate to bacillus acidopbilus in vivo possess specific
have a naturally wholesome food, milk, which anticarcinogenic properties against Ehrlich
can be converted easily and relatively inexpen- ascite tumors in mice. This research suggests a
sively into products with superior nutritive possible similar response in man and animals
qualities. (57). Thus, fermented dairy foods contain and
Microorganisms of lactic acid starter cultures, exhibit nutritional and therapeutic benefits not
used for the conversion and preservation of clearly established with other foods.
milk by-products, are unique bioconvertors of Fermented dairy foods offer unique oppor-
energy. When they are used appropriately, these tunities and challenges to our industry and to
cultures elaborate specific metabolites during our society that are unavailable in many other
fermentation. These metabolites, in conjuction foods. The manufacturer/processor can benefit
with partial hydrolysis of milk constituents economically; the researcher/technologist has
(proteins, fat, and lactose), contribute to bet- several opportunities to develop new fermented
ter digestibility of the fermented food, and dairy food products; and, with bonafide market-
their nutritional and therapeutic qualities also ing/and sales promotion, the consumer will
are enhanced. recognize the importance of these foods for
Several lactic cultures synthesize certain B maintaining high nutrition and health at the
vitamins in fermented dairy foods (58, 70, 71). lowest cost per unit of protein energy available.
In contrast, directly acidified dairy foods do Many of our fermented dairy foods offer
not exhibit this enhancement. Also, lactic excellent opportunities for development as
cultures elaborate lactase and other enzymes ingredients or extenders in the preparation of
which, when in fermented foods containing other nutritious foods, either by adding nutritive
lactose, may contribute to the metabolism and value and by aiding in extension and preserva-
assimilation of lactose in lactose-intolerant tion of shelf life.
individuals.
In recent years, Shahani and Speck and their TRENDS
coworkers (70, 72, 74) showed that lactic
cultures, and especially certain species of lacto- Yogurt
bacilli, elaborate specific antimicrobial agents Yogurt is a perishable fermented dairy
which extend the shelf life of fermented dairy product which, unheated after fermentation,
foods by inhibiting a wide spectrum of food has a shelf life of up to 3 to 4 wk under refrig-
spoilage organisms. While current evidence does eration. Shelf life is dependent not only upon
not present proof, it strongly suggests that storage conditions but also upon type of
consumption of fermented dairy foods provides culture employed in manufacture, its bio-
protection from certain disease organisms. A chemistry during manufacture and storage, and
number of reports (70) corroborate that yogurt upon standards of sanitation during manufacture
and acidophilus milk and their constituent and packaging (78). Shelf life and quality
organisms provide beneficial effects in treatment (flavor, body, and texture) are influenced
significantly by quality and performance of
formula ingredients.
Yogurt is only one of several acidified
Received March 2, 1981. fermented dairy foods with unique organoleptic

1981 J Dairy Sci 64:1070--1076 1070

 FERMENTED FOODS -- 75TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE 1071

qualities. This product varies considerably commercial companies have devoted extensive
worldwide in composition, flavor, and texture time to promoting acceptable standards,
as influenced by the nature (biochemistry) of standardizing manufacturing methods, develop-
the fermenting organisms, the type and source ing cultured dressings, and studying microbial
of milk base, and the manufacturing process qualities of not only skim milk but also or-
(2, 78). Yogurt and yogurt-like products are ganisms responsible for spoilage (8, 49, 53, 74).
known throughout the world. However, they While the per capita sales of cottage cheese
have traditional names other than yogurt (78). changed significantly from 1955 to 1960 (1.77
Consumption of yogurt has increased in to 2.18 kg) and further increased to 2.36 kg
most countries, and its popularity has spread per person in 1970, per capita sales have de-
throughout the world (78). This widespread creased to approximately 2.09 kg in 1979 (52).
popularity and consumption have been influ- Why? Has overall quality and shelf life deterio-
enced immeasurably by introduction of a rated? Has the handling of or the performance
variety of fruits and flavor combinations. Also, of lactic cultures caused serious problems?
the intermix of both sundae and Swiss styles as Have we not promoted or advertised suffi-
commercial offerings to attract consumer ciently? Could the reduced availability of
awareness and preference through an aggressive technologically trained personnel have con-
marketing program has done much to increase tributed to the decrease in per capita sales?
per capita consumption, especially in those
countries where this fermented food was not
traditionally part of one's daily diet. Acidified Cottage Cheese
Creativeness of a number of individuals In efforts to be creative in continuing to
employed by commercial companies who provide cottage cheese to the marketplace with
developed unique stabilizers, who prepared a less variability and at more favorable prices, a
variety of fruits and flavor combinations, and directly acidified cottage cheese process was
who developed innovative packaging and pro- developed. This process was based on the prin-
cesses contributed much to advancements in ciple that milk at refrigeration temperatures
yogurt technology over the past 25 yr. Also, (5 to 7°C) can be acidified by direct acidifi-
the development of cryogenically frozen cation to a pH of 4.5 to 4.7 without coagula-
starter-culture inocula contributed much to the tion. As the temperature of this admixture is
consistency and uniformity of finished yogurts elevated to 10 to 23°C, slow but complete
(65, 66). For a more detailed understanding of coagulation occurs. Food grade hydrochloric
this product and biochemical changes during acid was added to fortified skim (14% solids)
fermentation see the review by Tamime and at 5°C. The Creamery Packaging Manufacturing
Deeth (78). Co. (CP) developed and fabricated the equip-
ment in conjunction with Ernstrom (22) for
commercialization.
Cottage Cheese
Research has shown that glucono-delta-
Since the sales and consumption of cottage lactone, a neutral ester of gluconic acid, could
cheese depend much upon curd firmness and be added to skim milk to effect sufficient
identity, the handling techniques during its acidification for manufacturing cottage cheese
manufacture are critical to success. It has one (16). (The Meyer-Blanke Company and, later,
of the most delicate curds of any cheese. the Vitex Corp. commercially developed this
Whether this product is manufactured with process, which is today used to manufacture
lactic cultures or the milk is acidified directly, cottage cheese.) In contrast to the Ernstrom-
abnormal variations in milk composition, CP process, milk can be acidified at predeter-
microbiological quality, and the treatment of mined rates by regulating the temperature of
the skim milk may have definite and significant the skim milk at the time of adding the acid-
influences on the final product. In addition, ulant. Milk coagulates faster at higher temper-
small differences in the technique of handling atures (43). This process requires less total
the curd may affect its properties and qualities. energy in manufacturing than does the
In attempts to upgrade the quality of Ernstrom-CP process.
cottage cheese a number of individuals and The finished dry cottage curd manufactured

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 6, 1981

1072 SELLARS

by the direct acidification process is bland and Cultured buttermilk is evaluated primarily
mildly flavored with body and texture compa- by three criteria: flavor, body, and texture. The
rable to that produced by culturing. The biochemistry of flavor development has been
creamed curd from this process is promoted documented (13, 37, 39, 77). In recent years
as indistinguishable from that made by culturing the continued presence of high numbers of un-
(43). However, sensory examinations have, on desirable psychrotrophic bacteria in aged bulk
occasion, revealed traces of off-flavor believed tank raw milk has contributed to subtle off-
due to residual minerals. If this slight defect flavors.
appears, the addition of natural starter distillate Commercial suppliers of cryogenic-frozen
or of a culture to the cream (46, 52, 73) used lactic starter-cultures have engineered various
for dressing the curd may mask objectionable culture blends, systems, and techniques for
flavors (personal communication, unpublished developing flavor while minimizing mutations
data). and variations in the inocula. Mutations and
Fortunately, the controversy in the standards strain dominance are believed to be major
of identity and in the statutes for labeling causes of poor quality (44). The quality of
cottage cheese have been reasonably clarified. available direct set culture inocula has enhanced
However, differences in total nutritive value opportunities for improvements (69). Develop-
between cultured versus directly acidified ment of more efficient processing equipment
cottage cheese have not been documented by suppliers also has provided opportunities for
satisfactorily. Research has shown that cottage improvements.
cheese manufactured by the traditional culturing Cultured buttermilk could be an attractive
method vs. the directly acidified type contains vehicle or carrier for new creative products in
higher amounts of specific nutrients (B vitamins) our North American markets (60, 76). For
that result from activities of lactic culture (26). example, in Europe and parts of Asia cultured
The future process by which cottage cheese buttermilk is flavored, mixed with fruits of
will be manufactured may be a combination of acceptable compatibilities, and mixed with
the cultured, directly acidified, or yet undevel- fermented acidophilus milk. Denmark has a
oped processes. Suppliers of commercial lactic number of products in which buttermilk is used
cultures are continuing to provide more bacte- as the base. Sales of these products continue to
riophage resistant cultures sufficient in number, grow.
style, and type (bulk sets and direct sets) to
allow the manufacturer freedom of choice and
Sour Cream
less worry about starter failures. Overall, eco-
nomics will exert much pressure in the decision Cultured and directly acidified sour cream
making process. Creativity in research, develop- currently is showing growth in US per capita
ment, and commercial selling will impact which sales. The primary reason has been the develop-
process is preferred and used. ment of various flavored dips that use sour
cream as the base. From 1969 through 1979
sour cream and dips have shown a 91% increase
Cultured Buttermilk in sales - third highest of milk products behind
Per capita sales of cultured buttermilk have yogurt (+204%) and lowfat milks (+156) (51).
decreased steadily every year since 1955. Per In 1955 the per capita sale was .30 kg, whereas
capita sales in kilograms dropped from 3.72 in in 1978 it was .80 kg.
1955 to 2.79 in 1965 to 2.22 in 1975. The Uniform, stable, cryogenically-frozen lactic
estimated figure for 1979 is 1.97 (51). Of all cultures are being used almost exclusively by
fermented cultured dairy foods this product the industry today for the preparation of
enjoys the least acceptance in the US market- cultured sour cream. Since they became com-
place (60). The reasons are numerous; however, mercially available in 1967, the per capita sales
primary reasons are purportedly the failure of of sour cream improved steadily every year.
dairy processors to adhere to good, well estab- Research and development on sour cream
lished process-culture technology and the lack over the past 25 yr has been mostly by com-
of creativeness on the part of marketeers (3, 44, mercial companies who sell cultures, flavors,
66). stabilizers, etc. (43).

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 6, 1981

 FERMENTED FOODS -- 75TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE 1073

Sour cream was the first dairy food to be (5, 56, 64), and means for effective and success-
prepared commercially by direct acidification ful commercialization (56, 64).
(43). The Battelle Memorial Institute of Co- Bacteriophage infection has been (and still
lumbus, OH, developed the process which was is) the most serious problem in the use of lactic
licensed to and commercialized by Meyer- cultures. The development of phage inhibitory
Blanke Company. Although sales volume of medium first was noted by USDA researchers
sour cream is not tabulated separately (cultured (35). Later, V. Christensen of the Marschall
versus directly acidified), it is believed that Dairy Laboratory, Madison, Wl, developed and
more directly acidified sour cream is manufac- patented a medium formula which was com-
tured than the cultured variety. The diacetyl mercialized successfully in the middle to late
flavor, characteristic of good quality cultured sixties (10). Since then several media formula-
sour cream, is not critical when sour cream is tions have been developed and used effectively
used as a base for dips. The primary quality commercially, particularly for the manufacture
factor that sour cream must have to satisfy of American type cheeses. These media were
consumer preference is a firm, heavy body, as buffered but not internally or externally pH
sour cream is used mostly as an ingredient or controlled. In 1973, Chr. Hansen's Laboratory,
adjunct to other foods. However, cultured sour Inc. patented a phosphated substrate buffered
cream does have additional nutritional benefits with ammonium hydroxide (55, 56). In recent
that acidified cream does not have (54). years Richardson and coworkers developed an
externally pH controlled medium and a process
Acidophilus Milk for preparing bulk culture inocula (38, 59). In
contrast, Sandine and associates (personal
"Sweet Acidophilus" milk is our newest
communication) developed a phage inhibitory,
"cultured" dairy food. However, this product
selectively and highly buffered substrate that
is not fermented. It is prepared by adding a
controls culture development internally to
suspension of highly concentrated, viable cells
achieve maximum cell concentration and
of Lactobacillus acidophilus to homogenized
activity. This medium is being commercialized
whole milk, which is kept refrigerated. This
by Galloway West, a Division of Borden Co.,
product is sold under several fanciful names.
Fon du Lac, WI.
It has the flavor of freshly homogenized milk.
Bacteriophage replication, infection, suscep-
Milk or lowfat (2%) milk serves as the primary
tibility, and resistance have been investigated
carrier for ingesting the acidophilus culture,
by a number of individuals (4, 6, 119, 36, 38,
which has been reported to have possible
55, 59, 61, 68). The published research is too
therapeutic qualities (15, 24, 28, 30, 31, 32,
numerous to cite here. However, investigations
33, 34, 36, 63, 70, 75).
concerning genetic transfer(s) of markers within
Of all cultured dairy foods acidophilus milk,
the cell have revealed future potentials in lactic
sweet or fully fermented, offers the most
culture technology (47, 48). Development of
exciting potential for the future. The next 25
phage resistant mutants has been the objective
yr will see a tremendous activity in research,
of a number of individuals and suppliers of
development, and uses of L. acidophilus.
commercial starter cultures (unpublished data,
personal communication, 6, 47, 48). Media for
Lactic Culture Highlights
selective isolation of highly active and phage
Fermented dairy foods cannot be produced resistant mutants have been developed and used
or manufactured without the addition and commercially for selected species of strepto-
activity of lactic acid producing starter cultures. cocci as well as lactobacilli (61, umpublished
These unique bioconvertors can be used effec- data). These innovative techniques have pro-
tively in modifying and preserving our perishable vided highly active strains of different phage
products. sensitives, important in the manufacture of
Much research has been done over these past cheeses, especially in large volume operations.
25 yr to elucidate the biochemistry of lactic Without phage resistant media, standardized,
cultures. Reports featured strain dominance cryogenically frozen starter-cultures, and the
(12, 14), interactions with each other (symbio- selective media/genetically cloned cultures,
sis, inhibition), bacteriophages (5, 8), activity the fermented dairy food industry, particularly

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 6, 1981

1074 SELLARS

t h e hard cheese i n d u s t r y , w o u l d n o t be t h e 14 Collins, E. B. 1977. Influence of medium and

d o m i n a n t f a c t o r in our dairy i n d u s t r y it is temperature on end products and growth. J. Dairy
Sci. 60:799.
today. 15 Dairy Council Digest 50. 1979. Gut ecology and
Individuals and c o m m e r c i a l organizations health problems.
too n u m e r o u s to m e n t i o n have c o n t r i b u t e d to 16 Dean, D. D., and E. C. Hammond. 1960. Coagu-
t h e success. To all o f t h e s e d e d i c a t e d p e o p l e lation of milk for cheese making by ester hydroly-
sis. J. Dairy Sci. 43:1421.
g r a t i t u d e and t h a n k s should be e x t e n d e d .
17 Duggan, D. E., A. W. Anderson, and P. R. Elliker.
A d v a n c e m e n t s in u n d e r s t a n d i n g o f the 1959. A frozen concentrate of Lactobacillus
m e t a b o l i c b e h a v i o r of lactic organisms h e l p e d acidopbilus for the preparation of a palatable
t o s t i m u l a t e their uses in n o n d a i r y f o o d s such acidophilus milk. Food Technol. 13:465.
18 Efstathiou, J. D., and L. L. McKay. 1976. Plasmids
as m e a t s (21), vegetables (23), and breads. Also,
in Streptococcus lactis. Evidence that lactose
n e w t e c h n o l o g i e s o f f e r o p p o r t u n i t i e s for the metabolism and proteinase actibity are plasmid
use o f selected lactic cultures to c o n t r o l fer- linked. Appl. Environ. Microbiol. 32:38.
m e n t a t i o n s o f silage and wastes and in p r o b i o t i c 19 Efstathiou, J. D., L. L. McKay, H. A. Morris, and
t r e a t m e n t o f m a n and d o m e s t i c animals. E. A. Zottola. 1975. Growth and preservation
parameters for preparation of a mixed species
The f u t u r e is u n l i m i t e d for t h o s e with culture concentrate for cheese manufacture. J.
c o m m i t m e n t , d e d i c a t i o n , k n o w l e d g e , desire, Milk Food Technol. 38:444.
and resources t o discover t h o s e things w h i c h are 20 Elliker, P. R., A. W. Anderson, and G. Hanneson.
still a m y s t e r y . Lactic cultures have u n i q u e n e s s 1956. An agar culture medium for lactic acid
streptococci and lactobacilli. J. Dairy Sci. 39:
and p o t e n t i a l s w h i c h are n o t fully a p p r e c i a t e d .
1611.
With p a t i e n c e and w i s d o m , discovering t h e s e 21 Emerson, C. W., W. E. Danner, and P. A. Hammer.
e l e m e n t s will be exciting and rewarding. 1970. Bacterial starter cultures in sausage products.
Agric. Food Chem. 18:570.
22 Ernstrom, C. A. 1965. Continuous process devel-
oped for making cottage cheese. Can. Dairy Ice
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 FERMENTED FOODS - 75TH A N N I V E R S A R Y ISSUE 1075

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