Chapter 35 - Tides and Tidal Currents
Chapter 35 - Tides and Tidal Currents
Chapter 35 - Tides and Tidal Currents
ORIGINS OF TIDES
561
562 TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS
two interactive but distinct components. The tide-generat- it is also much farther away.
ing forces are differential forces between the gravitational Using Newton’s second law of motion, we can calcu-
attraction of the bodies (Earth-Sun and Earth-Moon) and late the differential forces generated by the Moon and the
the centrifugal forces on the Earth produced by the Earth’s Sun affecting any point on the Earth. The easiest calculation
orbit around the Sun and the Moon’s orbit around the Earth. is for the point directly below the Moon, known as the sub-
Newton’s Law of Gravitation and his Second Law of Mo- lunar point, and the point on the Earth exactly opposite,
tion can be combined to develop formulations for the known as the antipode. Similar calculations are done for
differential force at any point on the Earth, as the direction the Sun.
and magnitude are dependent on where you are on the If we assume that the entire surface of the Earth is cov-
Earth’s surface. As a result of these differential forces, the ered with a uniform layer of water, the differential forces
tide generating forces Fdm (Moon) and Fds (Sun) are in- may be resolved into vectors perpendicular and parallel to
versely proportional to the cube of the distance between the the surface of the Earth to determine their effect. See Figure
bodies, where: 3503a.
The perpendicular components change the mass on
GM m R e GM s R e which they are acting, but do not contribute to the tidal ef-
F dm = --------------------- ; F ds = -------------------
d 3 ds3 fect. The horizontal components, parallel to the Earth’s
m
surface, have the effect of moving the water in a horizontal
direction toward the sublunar and antipodal points until an
equilibrium position is found. The horizontal components
where Mm is the mass of the Moon and Ms is the mass of of the differential forces are the principal tide-generating
the Sun, Re is the radius of the Earth and d is the distance to forces. These are also called tractive forces. Tractive
the Moon or Sun. This explains why the tide-generating forces are zero at the sublunar and antipodal points and
force of the Sun is only 46/100 of the tide-generating force along the great circle halfway between these two
of the Moon. Even though the Sun is much more massive, points. Tractive forces are maximum along the small
circles located 45°
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 563
from the sublunar point and the antipode. Figure 3503b note that the Moon transits approximately every 24 hours
and 50 minutes. Since there are two bulges of water on the
equator, one at the sublunar point and the other at the anti-
pode, the observer will also see two high tides during this
interval with one high tide occurring when the Moon is
overhead and another high tide 12 hours 25 minutes later
when the observer is at the antipode. He will also experi-
ence a low tide between each high tide. The theoretical
range of these equilibrium tides at the equator will be less
than 1 meter.
In theory, the heights of the two high tides should be
equal at the equator. At points north or south of the equator,
an observer would still experience two high and two low
Figure 3503a. Differential forces along a great circle
tides, but the heights of the high tides would not be as great
connecting the sublunar point and antipode.
as they are at the equator. The effects of the declination of
the Moon are shown in Figure 3503d, for three cases, A, B,
shows the tractive forces across the surface of the Earth.
and C.
Figure 3503b. Tractive forces across the surface of the The preceding discussion pertaining to the effects of
Earth. the Moon is equally valid when discussing the effects of
the Sun, taking into account that the magnitude of the so-
Equilibrium will be reached when a bulge of water has lar effect is smaller. Hence, the tides will also vary
formed at the sublunar and antipodal points such that the according to the Sun’s declination and its varying distance
tractive forces due to the Moon’s differential gravitational from the Earth. A second envelope of water representing
forces on the mass of water covering the surface of the the equilibrium tides due to the Sun would resemble the
Earth are just balanced by the Earth’s gravitational attrac- envelope shown in Figure 3503c except that the heights of
tion (Figure 3503c). the high tides would be smaller, and the low tides corre-
Now consider the effect of the rotation of the Earth. If spondingly not as low. The theoretical tide at any place
the declination of the Moon is 0°, the bulges will lie on the represents the combination of the effects of both the Moon
equator. As the Earth rotates, an observer at the equator will and Sun.
FEATURES OF TIDES
3504. General Features the tide begins to rise slowly at first, but at an increasing
rate until it is about halfway to high water. The rate of rise
At most places the tidal change occurs twice daily. The then decreases until high water is reached, and then the rise
tide rises until it reaches a maximum height, called high ceases.
tide or high water, and then falls to a minimum level called The falling tide behaves in a similar manner. The peri-
low tide or low water. od at high or low water during which there is no apparent
The rate of rise and fall is not uniform. From low water, change of level is called stand. The difference in height be-
564 TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS
Figure 3503c. Theoretical equilibrium configuration due to Moon’s differential gravitational forces. One bulge of the water
envelope is located at the sublunar point, the other bulge at the antipode.
tween consecutive high and low waters is the range. more readily to daily or diurnal forces, others to semidi-
Figure 3504 is a graphical representation of the rise and urnal forces, and others almost equally to both. Hence,
fall of the tide at New York during a 24-hour period. The tides are classified as one of three types, semidiurnal, di-
curve has the general form of a variable sine curve. urnal, or mixed, according to the characteristics of the
tidal pattern.
3505. Types of Tide In the semidiurnal tide, there are two high and two
low waters each tidal day, with relatively small differences
A body of water has a natural period of oscillation, in the respective highs and lows. Tides on the Atlantic coast
dependent upon its dimensions. None of the oceans is a of the United States are of the semidiurnal type, which is il-
single oscillating body; rather each one is made up of lustrated in Figure 3505a by the tide curve for Boston
several separate oscillating basins. As such basins are Harbor.
acted upon by the tide-producing forces, some respond In the diurnal tide, only a single high and single low
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 565
Figure 3504. The rise and fall of the tide at New York,
water occur each tidal day. Tides of the diurnal type occur
shown graphically.
along the northern shore of the Gulf of Mexico, in the Java
Sea, the Gulf of Tonkin, and in a few other localities. The
tide curve for Pei-Hai, China, illustrated in Figure 3505b, is
an example of the diurnal type.
In the mixed tide, the diurnal and semidiurnal oscilla-
tions are both important factors and the tide is characterized
by a large inequality in the high water heights, low water
heights, or in both. There are usually two high and two low
waters each day, but occasionally the tide may become di-
urnal. Such tides are prevalent along the Pacific coast of the
United States and in many other parts of the world. Exam-
ples of mixed types of tide are shown in Figure 3505c. At
Los Angeles it is typical that the inequalities in the high and 3506. Solar Tide
low waters are about the same. At Seattle the greater in-
equalities are typically in the low waters, while at Honolulu The natural period of oscillation of a body of water
it is the high waters that have the greater inequalities. may accentuate either the solar or the lunar tidal oscilla-
tions. Though as a general rule the tides follow the Moon,
566 TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS
the relative importance of the solar effect varies in different new or full, the effect of the Sun is to cause the tidal bulge
areas. There are a few places, primarily in the South Pacific to either lag or precede the Moon (Figure 3508c). These ef-
and the Indonesian areas, where the solar oscillation is the fects are called priming and lagging the tides.
more important, and at those places the high and low waters Thus, when the Moon is at the point in its orbit nearest
occur at about the same time each day. At Port Adelaide, the Earth (at perigee), the lunar semidiurnal range is
Australia the solar and lunar semidiurnal oscillations are increased and perigean tides occur. When the Moon is
equal and nullify one another at neaps. farthest from the Earth (at apogee), the smaller apogean
tides occur. When the Moon and Sun are in line and pulling
3507. Special Tidal Effects together, as at new and full Moon, spring tides occur (the
term spring has nothing to do with the season of year);
As a wave enters shallow water, its speed is decreased. when the Moon and Sun oppose each other, as at the
Since the trough is shallower than the crest, it is retarded quadratures, the smaller neap tides occur. When certain of
more, resulting in a steepening of the wave front. In a few these phenomena coincide, perigean spring tides and
estuaries, the advance of the low water trough is so much apogean neap tides occur.
retarded that the crest of the rising tide overtakes the low, These are variations in the semidiurnal portion of the
and advances upstream as a breaking wave called a bore. tide. Variations in the diurnal portion occur as the Moon
Bores that are large and dangerous at times of large tidal and Sun change declination. When the Moon is at its
ranges may be mere ripples at those times of the month maximum semi-monthly declination (either north or south),
when the range is small. Examples occur in the Petitcodiac tropic tides occur in which the diurnal effect is at a
River in the Bay of Fundy, and at Haining, China, in the maximum. When it crosses the equator, the diurnal effect is
Tsientang Kaing. The tide tables indicate where bores a minimum and equatorial tides occur.
occur. When the range of tide is increased, as at spring tides,
Other special features are the double low water (as at there is more water available only at high tide; at low tide
Hoek Van Holland) and the double high water (as at there is less, for the high waters rise higher and the low wa-
Southampton, England). At such places there is often a ters fall lower at these times. There is more water at neap
slight fall or rise in the middle of the high or low water pe- low water than at spring low water. With tropic tides, there
riod. The practical effect is to create a longer period of stand is usually more depth at one low water during the day than
at high or low tide. The tide tables list these and other pecu- at the other. While it is desirable to know the meanings of
liarities where they occur. these terms, the best way of determining the height of the
tide at any place and time is to examine the tide predictions
3508. Variations in Range for the place as given in the tide tables, which take all these
effects into account.
Though the tide at a particular place can be classified
as to type, it exhibits many variations during the month 3509. Tidal Cycles
(Figure 3508a). The range of the tide varies according to the
intensity of the tide-producing forces, though there may be Tidal oscillations go through a number of cycles. The
a lag of a day or two between a particular astronomic cause shortest cycle, completed in about 12 hours and 25 minutes
and the tidal effect. for a semidiurnal tide, extends from any phase of the tide to
The combined lunar-solar effect is obtained by adding the next recurrence of the same phase. During a lunar day
the Moon’s tractive forces vectorially to the Sun’s trac- (averaging 24 hours and 50 minutes) there are two highs
tive forces. The resultant tidal bulge will be predominantly and two lows (two of the shorter cycles) for a semidiurnal
lunar with modifying solar effects upon both the height of tide. The Moon revolves around the Earth with respect to
the tide and the direction of the tidal bulge. Special cases of the Sun in a synodical month of about 29 1/2 days,
interest occur during the times of new and full Moon (Fig- commonly called the lunar month. The effect of the phase
ure 3508b). With the Earth, Moon, and Sun lying variation is completed in one-half of a synodical month or
approximately on the same line, the tractive forces of the about 2 weeks as the Moon varies from new to full or full
Sun are acting in the same direction as the Moon’s tractive to new.
forces (modified by declination effects). The resultant tides The effect of the Moon’s declination is also repeated in
are called spring tides, whose ranges are greater than one-half of a tropical month of 27 1/3 days, or about every
average. 2 weeks. The cycle involving the Moon’s distance requires
Between the spring tides, the Moon is at first and third an anomalistic month of about 27 1/2 days. The Sun’s
quarters. At those times, the tractive forces of the Sun are declination and distance cycles are respectively a half year
acting at approximately right angles to the Moon’s tractive and a year in length.
forces. The results are tides called neap tides, whose ranges An important lunar cycle, called the nodal period or
are less than average. Metonic cycle (after Greek philosopher Meton, fifth
With the Moon in positions between quadrature and century B.C., who discovered the phenomenon) is 18.6
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 567
years (usually expressed in round figures as 19 years). For Earth’s rotation. Since the Earth’s axis is tilted 23.5 degrees
a tidal value, particularly a range, to be considered a true with respect to the plane of its revolution around the sun,
mean, it must be either based upon observations extended the combined effect is that the Moon’s declination varies
over this period of time, or adjusted to take account of from 28.5 degrees to 18.5 degrees in a cycle lasting 18.6
variations known to occur during the nodal period. years. For practical purposes, the nodal period can be con-
The nodal period is the result of axis of the Moon’s ro- sidered as the time between the Sun and Moon appearing in
tation being tilted 5 degrees with respect to the axis of the precisely the same relative positions in the sky.
568 TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS
TIDAL DATUMS
3512. Low Water Datums tum, which is a mathematical quantity developed as part of
a geodetic system used for horizontal positioning. There are
A tidal datum is a given average tide level from which a number of tidal levels of reference that are important to
heights of tides and overhead clearances are measured. It is the mariner. See Figure 3512.
a vertical datum, but is not the same as vertical geodetic da-
Figure 3512. Variations in the ranges and heights of tide where the chart sounding datum is Indian Spring Low Water.
that occur at the times of spring tides. MWL) is used, and is the average of the hourly heights
Mean lower low water (MLLW) is the average height observed over a period of time and adjusted to a 19-year
of the lower low waters of each tidal day. period. In the United States, a Low Water Datum (LWD) is
Tropic lower low water (TcLLW) is the average used in those coastal areas that have transitioned from tidal
height of the lower low waters (or of the single daily low to non-tidal (e.g. Laguna Madre, Texas and Pamlico Sound,
waters if the tide becomes diurnal) that occur when the North Carolina) and is simply 0.5 foot below a computed
Moon is near maximum declination and the diurnal effect is MLW. For the Great Lakes, the United States and Canada
most pronounced. This datum is not in common use as a tid- use a separate LWD for each lake, which is designed to
al reference. ensure that the actual water level is above the datum most
Indian spring low water (ISLW), sometimes called of the time during the navigation season. Lake levels vary
Indian tide plane or harmonic tide plane, is a low water by several feet over a period of years.
datum that includes the spring effect of the semi-diurnal Inconsistencies of terminology are found among charts
portion of the tide and the tropic effect of the diurnal por- of different countries and between charts issued at different
tion. It is about the level of lower low water of mixed tides times.
at the time that the Moon’s maximum declination coincides Large-scale charts usually specify the datum of sound-
with the time of new or full Moon. ings and may contain a tide note giving mean heights of the
Mean lower low water springs (MLLWS) is the av- tide at one or more places on the chart. These heights are in-
erage level of the lower of the two low waters on the days tended merely as a rough guide to the change in depth to be
of spring tides. expected under the specified conditions. They should not be
Some lower datums used on charts are determined used for the prediction of heights on any particular day,
from tide observations and some are determined arbitrarily which should be obtained from tide tables.
and later referred to the tide. Most of them fall close to one
or the other of the following two datums.
3513. High Water Datums
Lowest normal low water is a datum that approx-
imates the average height of monthly lowest low waters, Heights of terrestrial features are usually referred on
discarding any tides disturbed by storms.
nautical charts to a high water datum. This gives the
Lowest low water is an extremely low datum. It mariner a margin of error when passing under bridges,
conforms generally to the lowest tide observed, or even overhead cables, and other obstructions. The one used on
somewhat lower. Once a tidal datum is established, it is
charts of the United States, its territories and possessions,
sometimes retained for an indefinite period, even though it
and widely used elsewhere, is mean high water (MHW),
might differ slightly from a better determination from later
which is the average height of all high waters over a 19 year
observations. When this occurs, the established datum may
period. Any other high water datum in use on charts is
be called low water datum, lower low water datum, etc.
likely to be higher than this. Other high water datums are
These datums are used in a limited area and primarily for
mean high water springs (MHWS), which is the average
river and harbor engineering purposes. Examples are
Boston Harbor Low Water Datum and Columbia River level of the high waters that occur at the time of spring
Lower Low Water Datum. tides; mean higher high water (MHHW), which is the
average height of the higher high waters of each tidal day;
Some sounding datums are based on the predicted tide
rather than an average of observations. A British sounding and tropic higher high water (TcHHW), which is the
datum that may be adopted internationally is the Lowest average height of the higher high waters (or the single daily
Astronomical Tide (LAT). LAT is the elevation of the low- high waters if the tide becomes diurnal) that occur when the
est water level predicted in a 19-year period. Canadian Moon is near maximum declination and the diurnal effect is
coastal charts use a datum of Lower Low Water, Large Tide most pronounced. A reference merely to “high water”
(LLWLT) which is the average of the lowest low waters, leaves some doubt as to the specific level referred to, for the
one from each of the 19 years of predictions. height of high water varies from day to day. Where the
Figure 3512 illustrates variations in the ranges and range is large, the variation during a 2 week period may be
heights of tides in a locality such as the Indian Ocean, considerable.
where predicted and observed water levels are referenced to Because there are periodic and apparent secular trends
a chart sounding datum that will always cause them to be in sea level, a specific 19 year cycle (the National Tidal
additive relative to the charted depth. Datum Epoch) is issued for all United States datums. The
In areas where there is little or no tide, various other National Tidal Datum Epoch officially adopted by the
datums are used. For the Black Sea for instance, Mean Sea National Ocean Service is presently 1983 through 2001.
Level (MSL, sometimes referred to as Mean Water Level or The Epoch is reviewed for revision every 20 -25 years.
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 571
TIDAL CURRENTS
3514. Tidal and Nontidal Currents opposite directions with an instant or short period of little
or no current, called slack water, at each reversal of the
Horizontal movement of water is called current. It current. During the flow in each direction, the speed varies
may be either “tidal” and “nontidal.” Tidal current is the from zero at the time of slack water to a maximum, called
periodic horizontal flow of water accompanying the rise strength of flood or ebb, about midway between the slacks.
and fall of the tide. Nontidal current includes all currents Reversing currents can be indicated graphically, as in
not due to the tidal movement. Nontidal currents include the Figure 3515b, by arrows that represent the speed of the
permanent currents in the general circulatory system of the current at each hour. The flood is usually depicted above
oceans as well as temporary currents arising from meteoro- the slack waterline and the ebb below it. The tidal current
logical conditions. The current experienced at any time is curve formed by the ends of the arrows has the same charac-
usually a combination of tidal and nontidal currents. teristic sine form as the tide curve. In illustrations and for
certain other purposes it is convenient to omit the arrows
3515. General Features and show only the curve.
of this relationship by presenting for particular locations, across the channel from shore to shore. On the average, the
the direction and speed of the current at each succeeding current turns earlier near shore than in midstream, where
hour after high and low water, at a place for which tide the speed is greater. Differences of half an hour to an hour
predictions are available. are not uncommon, but the difference varies and the
Where there is considerable diurnal inequality in tide relationship may be nullified by the effect of nontidal flow.
or current, or where the type of current differs from the type The speed of the current also varies across the channel,
of tide, the relationship is not constant, and it may be usually being greater in midstream or midchannel than near
hazardous to try to predict the times of current from times shore, but in a winding river or channel the strongest
of tide. Note the current curve for Unimak Pass in the currents occur near the concave shore, or the outside corner
Aleutians in Figure 3516a. It shows the current as predicted of the curve. Near the opposite (convex) shore the currents
in the tidal current tables. Predictions of high and low are weak or eddying.
waters in the tide tables might have led one to expect the
current to change from flood to ebb in the late morning,
3522. Variation with Depth
whereas actually the current continued to run flood with
some strength at that time.
Since the relationship between times of tidal current In tidal rivers the subsurface current acting on the lower
and tide is not the same everywhere, and may be variable at portion of a ship’s hull may differ considerably from the
the same place, one should exercise extreme caution in surface current. An appreciable subsurface current may be
using general rules. The belief that slacks occur at local present when the surface movement appears to be practically
high and low tides and that the maximum flood and ebb slack, and the subsurface current may even be flowing with
occur when the tide is rising or falling most rapidly may be appreciable speed in the opposite direction to the surface
approximately true at the seaward entrance to, and in the current.
upper reaches of, an inland tidal waterway. But generally In a tidal estuary, particularly in the lower reaches
this is not true in other parts of inland waterways. When an where there is considerable difference in density from top
inland waterway is extensive or its entrance constricted, the to bottom, the flood usually begins earlier near the bottom
slacks in some parts of the waterway often occur midway than at the surface. The difference may be an hour or two,
between the times of high and low tide. Usually in such or as little as a few minutes, depending upon the estuary,
waterways the relationship changes from place to place as the location in the estuary, and freshet conditions. Even
one progresses upstream, slack water getting progressively when the freshwater runoff becomes so great as to prevent
closer in time to the local tide maximum until at the head of the surface current from flooding, it may still flood below
tidewater (the inland limit of water affected by a tide) the the surface. The difference in time of ebb from surface to
slacks occur at about the times of high and low tide. bottom is normally small but subject to variation with time
and location.
3520. Relationship Between Speed of Current and
The ebb speed at strength usually decreases gradually
Range of Tide
from top to bottom, but the speed of flood at strength often
is stronger at subsurface depths than at the surface.
The speed of the tidal current is not necessarily
consistent with the range of tide. It may be the reverse. For
example, currents are weak in the Gulf of Maine where the 3523. Tidal Current Observations
tides are large, and strong near Nantucket Island and in
Nantucket Sound where the tides are small. However, at Observations of current are made with sophisticated
any one place the speed of the current at strength of flood electronic current meters. Current meters are suspended
and ebb varies during the month in about the same from a buoy or anchored to the bottom with no surface
proportion as the range of tide, and this relationship can be marker at all. Very sensitive current meters measure and
used to determine the relative strength of currents on any record deep ocean currents; these are later recovered by
given day. triggering a release mechanism with a signal from the
surface. Untended current meters either record data
3521. Variation Across an Estuary internally or send it by radio or satellite to a base station on
ship or land. The period of observation varies from a few
In inland tidal estuaries the time of tidal current varies hours to few years.
3524. Tidal Height Predictions reference level, sometimes referred to as the reference
plane, or vertical datum. This vertical tidal datum is not the
To measure the height of tides, hydrographers select a same as the vertical geodetic datum. Soundings shown on
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 575
the largest scale charts are the vertical distances from this 3526. Meteorological Effects
datum to the bottom. At any given time the actual depth is
this charted depth plus the height of tide. In most places the The foregoing discussion of tidal behavior assumes
reference level is some form of low water. But all low normal weather conditions. However, sea level is also
waters at a given place are not the same height, and the affected by wind and atmospheric pressure. In general,
selected reference level is seldom the lowest tide occurring onshore winds raise the level and offshore winds lower it,
at the place. When lower tides occur, these are indicated in but the amount of change varies at different places. During
the tide tables by a negative sign. Thus, at a spot where the periods of low atmospheric pressure, the water level tends
charted depth is 15 feet, the actual depth is 15 feet plus the to be higher than normal. For a stationary low, the increase
tidal height. When the tide is three feet, the depth is in elevation can be found by the formula
15 + 3 = 18 feet. When it is -1 foot, the depth is 15 - 1 = 14 R0=0.01(1010 - P),
feet. The actual depth can be less than the charted depth. In in which R0 is the increase in elevation in meters and P is
an area where there is a considerable range of tide (the the atmospheric pressure in hectopascals. This is equal
difference between high water and low water), the height of approximately to 1 centimeter per hectopascal depression,
tide might be an important consideration when using or about 13.6 inches per inch depression. For a moving low,
soundings to determine if the vessel is in safe water. the increase in elevation is given by the formula
The heights given in the tide tables are predictions, and R0
when assumed conditions vary considerably, the R = ---------------
2
predictions shown may be considerably in error. Heights 1–C ------
gh
lower than predicted can be anticipated when the
atmospheric pressure is higher than normal, or when there
in which R is the increase in elevation in feet, R0 is the
is a persistent strong offshore wind. The greater the range
increase in meters for a stationary low, C is the rate of
of tide, the less reliable are the predictions for both height motion of the low in feet per second, g is the acceleration
and current. due to gravity (32.2 feet per second per second), and h is the
depth of water in feet.
3525. Tidal Heights Where the range of tide is very small, the meteoro-
logical effect may sometimes be greater than the normal
The nature of the tide at any place can best be tide. Where a body of water is large in area but shallow,
determined by observation. The predictions in tide tables and high winds can push the water from the windward to the lee
the tidal data on nautical charts are based upon detailed shore, creating much greater local differences in water
observations at specific locations, instead of theoretical levels than occurs normally, and partially or completely
predictions. masking the tides. The effect is dependent on the configu-
Tidal elevations are usually observed with a contin- ration and depth of the body of water relative to the wind
uously recording gage. A year of observations is the direction, strength and duration.
minimum length desirable for determining the harmonic
constants used in prediction. For establishing mean sea level 3527 Tidal Current Predictions
and long-term changes in the relative elevations of land and
sea, as well as for other special uses, observations have been Tidal currents are due primarily to tidal action, but
made over periods of 20, 30, and even 120 years at important other causes are often present. The Tidal Current Tables
locations. Observations for a month or less will establish the give the best prediction of total current. Following heavy
rains or a drought, a river’s current prediction may be
type of tide and suffice for comparison with a longer series of
considerably in error. Set and drift may vary considerably
observations to determine tidal differences and constants.
over different parts of a harbor, because differences in
Mathematically, the variations in the lunar and solar bathymetry from place to place affect current. Since this is
tide-producing forces, such as those due to changing phase, usually an area where small errors in a vessel’s position are
distance, and declination, are considered as separate crucial, a knowledge of predicted currents, particularly in
constituent forces, and the harmonic analysis of reduced visibility, is important. Strong currents occur
observations reveals the response of each constituent of the mostly in narrow passages connecting larger bodies of
tide to its corresponding force. At any one place this water. Currents of more than 5 knots are sometimes
response remains constant and is shown for each encountered at the Golden Gate in San Francisco, and
constituent by harmonic constants which are in the form currents of more than 13 knots sometimes occur at Seymour
of a phase angle for the time relation and an amplitude for Narrows, British Columbia.
the height. Harmonic constants are used in making In straight portions of rivers and channels, the strongest
technical studies of the tide and in tidal predictions on currents usually occur in the middle of the channel. In
computers. curved portions the swiftest currents (and deepest water)
576 TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS
usually occur near the outer edge of the curve. Counter- coasts. The greatest tidal effects are usually encountered in
currents and eddies may occur on either side of the main estuaries, bays, and other coastal indentations. A vessel
current of a river or narrow passage, especially near proceeding along an indented coast may encounter a set
obstructions and in bights. toward or away from the shore; a similar set is seldom
In general, the range of tide and the velocity of tidal experienced along a straight coast.
current are at a minimum in the open ocean or along straight
A small separate volume, the Alaskan Supplement, is 3530. Tide Predictions for Subordinate Stations
also published.
For each subordinate station listed, the following
Each volume has 5 common tables:
information is given:
• Table 1 contains a complete list of the predicted times
and heights of the tide for each day of the year at a 1. Number. The stations are listed in geographical order
number of places designated as reference stations. and assigned consecutive numbers. Each volume
• Table 2 gives tidal differences and ratios which can be contains an alphabetical station listing correlating the
used to modify the tidal information for the reference station with its consecutive number to assist in finding
stations to make it applicable to a relatively large number the entry in Table 2.
of subordinate stations. 2. Place. The list of places includes both subordinate and
• Table 3 provides information for finding the reference stations; the latter are in bold type.
approximate height of the tide at any time between high 3. Position. The approximate latitude and longitude are
water and low water. given to assist in locating the station. The latitude is
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 577
north or south, and the longitude east or west, for any given time. This method will also quickly show at
depending upon the letters (N, S, E, W) next above the what time a given depth of water will occur. Figure 3531a
entry. These may not be the same as those at the top of shows the OPNAV form used to calculate heights of tides.
the column. Figure 3531b shows the importance of calculating tides in
4. Differences. The differences are to be applied to the shallow water.
predictions for the reference station, shown in capital
letters above the entry. Time and height differences are
given separately for high and low waters. Where OPNAV 3530/40 (4-73)
differences are omitted, they are either unreliable or HT OF TIDE
unknown. Date
5. Ranges. Various ranges are given, as indicated in the
Location
tables. In each case this is the difference in height
Time
between high water and low water for the tides indicated.
6. Mean tide level. This is the average between mean low Ref Sta
and mean high water, measured from chart datum. HW Time Diff
LW Time Diff
The time difference is the number of hours and
minutes to be applied to the reference station time to find HW Ht Diff
the time of the corresponding tide at the subordinate station. LW Ht Diff
This interval is added if preceded by a plus sign (+) and
subtracted if preceded by a minus sign (-). The results Ref Sta
obtained by the application of the time differences will be HW/LW Time
in the zone time of the time meridian shown directly above HW/LW Time Diff
the difference for the subordinate station. Special Sub Sta
conditions occurring at a few stations are indicated by HW/LW Time
footnotes on the applicable pages. In some instances, the
corresponding tide falls on a different date at reference and Ref Sta
HW/LW Ht
subordinate stations.
HW/LW Ht Diff
Height differences are shown in a variety of ways. For
Sub Sta
most entries, separate height differences in feet are given HW/LW Ht
for high water and low water. These are applied to the
height given for the reference station. In many cases a
Rise
ratio is given for either high water or low water, or both. Duration
The height at the reference station is multiplied by this Fall
ratio to find the height at the subordinate station. For a few Near
Time Fm
stations, both a ratio and difference are given. In this case Tide
the height at the reference station is first multiplied by the Range of Tide
ratio, and the difference is then applied. An example is
Ht of Neap Tide
given in each volume of tide tables. Special conditions are
Corr Table 3
indicated in the table or by footnote. For example, a
footnote indicates that “Values for the Hudson River Ht of Tide
above George Washington Bridge are based upon Charted Depth
averages for the six months May to October, when the Depth of Water
fresh-water discharge is a minimum.” Draft
Clearance
3531. Finding Height of Tide at any Time
Each volume also contains current diagrams and tables show this information.
instructions for their use. Explanations and examples are
given in each table. 3534. Tidal Current Predictions for Subordinate
Stations
• Table 1 contains a complete list of predicted times of
maximum currents and slack water, with the velocity of
For each subordinate station listed in Table 2 of the
the maximum currents, for a number of reference
tidal current tables, the following information is given:
stations.
• Table 2 gives differences, ratios, and other information 1. Number: The stations are listed in geographical
related to a relatively large number of subordinate order and assigned consecutive numbers, as in the
stations. tide tables. Each volume contains an alphabetical
• Table 3 provides information to determine the current’s station listing correlating the station with its
velocity at any time between entries in tables 1 and 2. consecutive number to assist in locating the entry in
• Table 4 gives duration of slack, or the number of minutes Table 2.
the current does not exceed stated amounts, for various 2. Place: The list of places includes both subordinate
maximum velocities. and reference stations, the latter given in bold type.
• Table 5 (Atlantic Coast of North America only) gives 3. Position: The approximate latitude and longitude
information on rotary tidal currents. are given to assist in locating the station. The
latitude is north or south and the longitude east or
The volumes also contain general descriptive west as indicated by the letters (N, S, E, W) next
information on wind-driven currents, combination currents, above the entry. The current given is for the center
and information such as Gulf Stream currents for the east of the channel unless another location is indicated
coast and coastal currents on the west coast. by the station name.
4. Time difference: Two time differences are
3533. Tidal Current Prediction for Reference Stations tabulated. One is the number of hours and minutes
to be applied to the tabulated times of slack water
For each day, the date and day of week are given; at the reference station to find the times of slack
current information follows. If the cycle is repeated waters at the subordinate station. The other time
twice each tidal day, currents are semidiurnal. On most difference is applied to the times of maximum
days there are four slack waters and four maximum current at the reference station to find the times of
currents, two floods (F) and two ebbs (E). However, the corresponding maximum current at the
since the tidal day is longer than the civil day, the subordinate station. The intervals, which are added
corresponding condition occurs later each day, and on or subtracted in accordance with their signs,
certain days there are only three slack waters or three include any difference in time between the two
maximum currents. At some places, the current on some stations, so that the answer is correct for the
days runs maximum flood twice, but ebbs only once, a standard time of the subordinate station. Limited
minimum flood occurring in place of the second ebb. The application and special conditions are indicated by
TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 579
footnotes.
5. Velocity ratios: Speed of the current at the subor- OPNAV 3530/40 (4-73)
VEL OF CURRENT
dinate station is the product of the velocity at the
reference station and the tabulated ratio. Separate Int Between Slack and
Desired Time
ratios may be given for flood and ebb currents. Spe- Int Between Slack and
cial conditions are indicated by footnotes. Max Current
maximum velocities before flood and ebb are listed Factor Table 3
knots at the time of spring tides. A weak current is defined these uses, a number of “velocity lines” are provided. When
as less than 0.1 knot. These charts depict the flow of the tid- the appropriate line is transferred to the correct part of the
al current under normal weather conditions. Strong winds diagram, the current to be encountered during passage is in-
and freshets, however, may cause nontidal currents, consid- dicated along the line.
erably modifying the velocity indicated on the charts.
Tidal Current charts are provided for Boston Harbor,
Charleston Harbor SC, Long Island Sound and Block Island
Sound, Narragansett Bay, Narragansett Bay to Nantucket
Sound, Puget Sound (Northern Part), Puget Sound (South-
ern Part), Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tampa Bay.
The tidal current’s velocity varies from day to day as a
function of the phase, distance, and declination of the
Moon. Therefore, to obtain the velocity for any particular
day and hour, the spring velocities shown on the charts
must be modified by correction factors. A correction table
given in the charts can be used for this purpose.
All of the charts except Narragansett Bay require the
use of the annual Tidal Current Tables. Narragansett Bay
requires use of the annual Tide Tables.
average current is then determined in the same manner as constants available for locations, the prediction equation,
when the velocity line is located as described above. and digital versions of Table 2 in the Tide Tables to produce
even more products for the navigator’s use. Since NOS has
3540. Computer Predictions published the data, even inexpensive navigation electronics
such as handheld GPS receivers and plotters for small craft
Until recently, tidal predictions were compiled only on navigation often include graphic tide tables.
mainframe or minicomputers and then put into hardcopy
Emerging applications include integration of tidal pre-
table form for the mariner. There are several types of
diction with positioning systems and vessel traffic systems
commercial software available now for personal computers
(PC’s) that provide digital versions of the NOS tide tables which are now moving towards full use of GPS. In addition,
and also graph the tidal heights. The tabular information some electronic chart systems are already able to integrate
and graphs can be printed for the desired locations for pre- tide prediction information. Many of these new systems
voyage planning. There are also several types of specialized will also use real-time water level and current information.
hand-held calculators and tide clocks that can be used to Active research also includes providing predictions of total
predict tides for local areas. water level that will include not only the tidal prediction
Newer versions of PC software use the actual harmonic component, but also the weather-related component.