Adlerbarbour

Installation &
Operating Manual
› For ADLER/BARBOUR SERIES
ColdMachine™
It’s a perfect mate! SuperColdMachine™
WAECO USA • Clinton, CT • www.waecousa.com

Tel. (860) 664-4911 • Fax. (860) 664-4912 • www.waecousa.com
Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice. WAECO USA, Inc. 1
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Before you proceed, please read this manual from cover to cover.
Failure to following instructions may void your warranty.
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Operation of System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Start-Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Unpacking Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 AC/DC Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Tools & Equipment Needed for Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Defrosting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Planning the Condensing Unit Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Battery Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Ventilation Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Winter Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Duct Kits and Power Duct Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Location Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Programming Digital Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
To Program Set Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Mounting the Condensing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 To Program Differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Planning the Evaporator Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Electronic Module Protection System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Evaporator Location Choices - Vertical Applications . . . . . . . .6
Optional Box Modifications & Combinations . . . . . . . . . . . .7–8 Operational Errors Indicated by LED
Horizontal Applications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 on Condensing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Mounting the Evaporator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27–29

Refrigerant Couplings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10–12
Installing the Analog Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Procedure for Removing Compressor Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Installing the Digital Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Mounting the PowerPlate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Procedure for Removing Evaporator & Tubeset . . . . . . . . .30
Electrical Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Procedure for Removing PowerPlate & Tube Set . . . . . . . .30
Water Cooled Optional Package/Installation . . . . . . . . . . .17 Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Battery Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Wiring the System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Return Policy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Voltage Drops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Making the Power Connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Wire Size and Wire Size Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Wiring Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20–23
This manual covers:

All air-cooled ColdMachine™ products and all air/
water-cooled SuperColdMachine™ products with: ColdMachine™
• Standard aluminum “bin” shaped evaporators

• Custom formed “flat”, “L”, “U” shaped evaporators
• PowerPlate stainless steel holdover evaporators
• Analog type thermostatic controls (standard)
• Digital type thermostatic controls (optional) SuperColdMachine™
2 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. (860) 664-4911 • Fax. (860) 664-4912 • www.waecousa.com Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing your new ADLER/BARBOUR marine PowerPlate:
refrigeration system. This manual will explain how to install the The flat, stainless steel, holdover plate-type evaporator
system on your boat—in just a few hours—with ordinary tools. (precharged with R134a refrigerant). Mounts inside the space to
NOTE: This system is charged with HFC134 a non-ozone depleting be refrigerated.
refrigerant. Please refer to the TROUBLESHOOTING AND SERVICE
SECTION of this manual for more details. Tubeset:
The copper refrigerant tubing and couplings, also precharged with
VARIABLE CAPACITY COMPRESSOR WITH LOAD MATCHING R134a refrigerant. Tubesets may come attached (evaporators) or
Commnecing February 2000, all ADLER/BARBOUR products are separate (PowerPlates).
equipped with the most advanced DC compressor ever—the
Danfoss BD50F. Its wider performance range enables us to Thermostatic Control (T’stat):
precisely match the compressor speed and capacity to the job it
May be analog (knob) type or digital (LED display) type.
must do, while still keeping power consumption to a minimum.
This means:
For the largest refrigerators, and for all freezer applications, Cabinet, Box, Icebox, Compartment:
the compressor operates at maximum 3500 RPM, producing The insulated space that will be converted into a mechanical
approximately 25% higher performance than previous BD35F refrigerator, freezer, or combination refrigerator/freezer.
compressor.
For mid-sized refrigerators, and for most freezer applications, LED:
the compressor operates at 3000 RPM, with about 15% higher Light Emitting Diode. Mounted in the junction box, used for
performance than previous models. diagnostics.
For smaller refrigerator applications using our VD-150 and
VD-151 systems, the compressor will operate at 2500 RPM—still Electronic Module:
delivering slightly higher performance than previously.
The housing attached to the compressor provides complete digital
For every application, the BD50F-based ADLER/BARBOUR system management.
products deliver top efficiency with minimal power consumption.
Junction Box:
The stainless steel housing with terminal block, LED, t’stat harness
TERMINOLOGY socket, fuses and relay.
Below are terms and definitions that will be used throughout this
manual: ColdMachine™:
The term “ColdMachine” is used throughout this manual when
CONDENSING UNIT: referring to the condensing unit (whether air cooled only of
The stainless steel base plate mounted compressor, air/water cooled).
electronic control module, electrical housing and terminal block,
refrigerant couplings, air-cooled condenser and shroud (the
condensing unit comes precharged with R134a refrigerant).
Condensing units may be:
• ColdMachine™ (air-cooled only)
• SuperColdMachine™ (air/water-cooled)
EVAPORATOR:
Also referred to as “the freezer”, this is the formed
aluminum “bin” (or custom-formed “L”, “U”, or “flat”) with
connecting tubeset and couplings (also precharged with R134a
refrigerant). Mounts inside the space to be refrigerated.
Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice. Tel. (860) 664-4911 • Fax. (860) 664-4912 • www.waecousa.com WAECO USA, Inc. 3
UNPACKING THE EQUIPMENT PLANNING THE
When unpacking the unit, carefully check for shipping CONDENSING UNIT INSTALLATION
damage and identify all listed items to ensure that all Please keep the following points in mind when planning the
components have been received and that no in-transit installation.
damage has occurred. File claims for loss or damage directly with
the carrier. If the system was purchased through a GENERAL
dealer, please contact the dealer directly.
• The connecting refrigerant tube set between the condensing
All ADLER/BARBOUR refrigeration systems include the following: unit and the freezer is 15’ long (12.5’ for PowerPlate). Plan
the location of the two units accordingly.
• Condensing unit
• The route of the refrigerant tube set through the boat from
• Evaporator assembly (either aluminum with integral tube set the condensing unit to the icebox must be determined before
or PowerPlate with separate tube set) starting any work. The tube set must be kept clear of any
bilge water and protected from the chafe and damage.
• Ice cube trays, vertical or horizontal to suit: 2 for small
evaporators, 3 for large evaporators (trays are not • Ventilation openings or ventilation duct options will be
included with PowerPlate systems) required if the compressor unit is located in a small, confined
compartment. Re-circulating the same is unacceptable.
• Separator to retain ice cube trays (vertical style only)
• Engine room location for the air condensing unit is okay if the
• Thermostatic control (either digital with wire harness or continuous environment is not over 100°F, but performance
analog (knob type) with wire harness) will be much improved is a Duct Kit or Power Duct Kit is
• Installation / small parts package installed to provide inlet air at under 90°F. A cooler
location = less running time = lower amperage draw.
• Template for evaporator mounting hole locations (except
PowerPlate systems) • Accessibility is an important consideration.
• Soft-sealing removable mastic putty (“Mortite”) for tubing exit • All components must be protected from bilge water, s
hole through box (never use the durable marine type) pray or possible physical damage.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT VENTILATION REQUIREMENTS

NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION The ColdMachine is a device that moves heat from one place to
another. It does not “create cold.” The heat removed from your
• Electric drill with assorted small bits including 9/64” icebox by way of the evaporator is transferred to the air around
the condensing unit. If you locate the condensing unit in a small,
• Stubby Phillips screwdriver hot or confined enclosure, it will suffocate. Its built-in fan will
• Hole saw 1-1/2” diameter have to re-circulate hotter air. It will run continuously, draw
excess amps and not cool efficiently. It will never shut off and its
• Wrench, open end type, 5/8” performance will be unacceptable.
• Wrench, open end type, 13/16”

Let the unit breathe! Position the condensing unit so that its fan
• Wrench, open end type for powerplate, 3/4” can intake air from one space and discharge it to another. Do not
re-circulate the same air unless the compartment in which you
• Electrical wire, 2 conductor, marine type tinned flexible copper mount the unit is 100 cubic feet or larger in volume,
stranded (see Wire Size Table in this manual) unobstructed, and mostly below the waterline.
*Alternatively, two (2) adjustable wrenches, 10” size
DUCT KITS AND POWERDUCT KITS LOCATION CONSIDERATIONS
To achieve cool airflow through your ColdMachine, we offer four
different packages to improve ventilation: IMPORTANT: Find the coolest possible location in the largest
compartment available. However, many other locations are
acceptable provided the appropriate ventilation duct kit is
FOR THE COLDMACHINE: installed (see below).
Part # C8079
Ventilation Duct Kit with adapter shroud, 3 ft. of 4” flex duct, 1 ENGINE COMPARTMENT
adapter flange and trim grille. Attaches to the condensing unit
DUCT KIT OR POWER DUCT KIT MANDATORY.
with four screws. Can be used in two ways:
Mount the condensing unit as far as possible from the engine,
(1) To bring air to the unit from a cooler location—bilge, yacht
particularly the hot exhaust pipe sections. Route the connecting
accommodation, cool ventilated locker, etc., or
tubing from the evaporator away from the hot spots such as the
(2) The condensing unit’s fan can be physically reversed and the engine, manifold or hot water pipes. If the tubing must be run
duct kit can be used to extract air from the unit and discharge close enough to local hot spots to become noticeably heated,
it into another space. This is preferred if the location has cool protect it with insulated sponge tubing (“Armaflex” or similar,
air available, but has no way to get rid of the warmer air after available from home improvement outlets).
it has passed through the condensing unit.
IMPORTANT: The condensing unit must be mounted

Part # C8075 horizontally, base down. NO EXCEPTIONS. It will tolerate up to
Power Duct Booster Duct Kit—as above, with 5 feet of 4” flex 30° off-level but must not be mounted off-level initially.
duct, 3 adapter flanges and additional booster fan. Used exactly
like above, plus the longer length and push-pull fans” allow you
SAIL BIN, LARGE LAZARETTE, OR ANY CLOSED COMPARTMENT
to go to a greater distance through the boat to pick up cool air or
get rid of heated air. Generally adequate without ducting, if there is 100 cubic feet of
volume and half of the outside surfaces are below the waterline
for heat dissipation. In such a case, heat will transfer outside the
compartment via conduction. Be sure that airflow into and out of
FOR THE SUPERCOLDMACHINE: the condenser is not obstructed by sail bags, lines, etc. Position
the unit so that it can still move air freely despite an occasionally
Part # C8070 sail bag or two dropped nearby.
Ventilation Duct Kit with 3 ft of flex duct, 1 adapter flange and
trim grille. Attaches to the SuperColdMachine condensing unit If above conditions cannot be met or if compartment air
with 4 existing fan mount screws. Can be used in 2 ways: temperature exceeds 100°F, you MUST install a duct kit.
(1) To bring air to the unit from a cooler location—bilge, yacht
accommodation, cool ventilated locker, etc., or UNDER A SETTEE, GALLEY COUNTER, BERTH OR LOCKER (or any
(2) The condensing unit’s fan can be physically reversed and the space under 100 cubic feet)
duct kit can be used to extract air from the unit and discharge Position the unit so that it can positively draw air from one space
it into another space. This is preferred if the location has cool and discharge it into another. Simply cutting holes or grilles into
air available, but has no way to get rid of the warmer air after the space will not accomplish this.
it has passed through the condensing unit.
The best results are archived by cutting a rectangular opening in
Part # C8071 the bulkhead equal to the size of the condenser (8” x 8”). Mount
Power Duct Booster Duct Kit—as above, with 5 feet of 4” flex the unit with its condenser against the opening for air intake.
duct, 3 adapter flanges and additional booster fan. Used exactly Provide another opening of at least equal size at the other end
like above, plus the longer length and push-pull fans” allow you (or either side) of the unit so that warm air can exhaust. Small
to go to a greater distance through the boat to pick up cool air or slots or air holes generally are not satisfactory. One big opening
get rid of heated air. is much better. However, if visible finished joinery must be cut
into, plan to use teak louvered grilles (available in many stock
sizes from teak woodwork and marine hardware catalogs).
Increase the size of the outlet opening by at least 1/3 (ie: to
about 100 square inches or more) to compensate for the teak
louver obstruction.
MOUNTING THE CONDENSING UNIT PLANNING THE
EVAPORATOR INSTALLATION
MOUNTING EVAPORATOR LOCATION CHOICES
CAUTION: UNIT MUST BE MOUNTED HORIZONTALLY, BASE DOWN.
Handle the condensing unit carefully. Do not pick it up by the
Vertical Applications
tubing. The cooling fins on the condenser (the radiator-like
object) are very thin for maximum efficiency and bend easily. If Locate the evaporator vertically, as high as possible on any side-
bent, they should be straightened using the flat blade of a wall in the icebox. Template, standoffs (1”) and mounting screws
screwdriver or “combed” (using a “fin comb” obtainable at a (1-3/4”) are supplied.
refrigeration supply house). Allow sufficient space for access to the freezer interior, insertion
and removal of the VertiCube™ ice trays and periodic cleaning.
Use four (owner-supplied) fasteners to mount the unit on a
suitable, sturdy HORIZONTAL platform. Use 1/4” diameter wood
screws, self-tapping screws or machine screws and nuts,
Small Vertical
depending on the type of mounting platform. There are mounting Evaporator
holes in each of the four corners of the condensing unit base for
this purpose.
Bulkhead Mounting Bracket

If this optional part was ordered, it must be bolted through the
bulkhead selected, not screwed to it. Use 1/4” or 5/16”
diameter bolts with large flat washer or backup plate on other
side. The system is supplied with 4 oversized flat washers. These
BASIC REFRIGERATOR UP TO 9 CUBIC FEET
must be used on the wood or fiberglass bulkhead side—to
Small vertical evaporator mounted in typical top opening box smaller
distribute the bolt loading to the bracket properly.
than 9 cubic feet.
NOTE: The bracket may seem too light and flexible before it is
Large Evaporator:
mounted. Once bolted securely to the bulkhead, then use
15”L x 6”W x 12”H
supplied bolts to secure the condensing unit base, it becomes
stabilized and very rigid.
Small Evaporator:
10”L x 6”W x 11”H
OPTIONAL BOX MODIFICATIONS AND COMBINATIONS

Freezer/Refrigerators—up to 9 cubic feet total:
In many applications, the Adler/Barbour system has substantial
surplus capacity beyond that needed for a refrigerator-only.
Therefore, it is often practical to partition the box into two
sections if a larger freezer capacity than provided by the
evaporator unit itself is desired. The amount of volume allotted to
each section will depend on the individual needs and is subject
to the system’s capacity.
A large size evaporator system (VD-152 or VD-153) is best.

The small size evaporator systems (VD-150 or VD-151) will
generally work only if the total box volume is under 6 cubic
feet.
Some experimentation may be necessary before the location of For cool air feed to the refrigerator side, drill a 3” diameter hole
the partition is finalized. A minimum of 4” of rigid polyurethane halfway up the partition and leave about a 1” gap at the top. This
foam insulation is mandatory on all box surfaces for this will allow for natural convection airflow from the freezer to the
application. Please do not attempt it with less. In boxes up to 8 refrigerator section.
or 9 cubic feet, it is generally possible to obtain 2-3 cubic feet of
below-freezing space by creating a suitable partition. You may need to install a manual damper over the hole to better
control individual compartment temperatures. This can be a
For the partition, use a sheet of 2” rigid polyurethane foam core simple disc with a single pivot screw. As an alternative, you can
with fiberglass or Formica faces, tightly fitted and sealed airtight use the Adler/Barbour self-powered, thermostatically controlled
to the box sides and bottom. The necessary materials should be Automatic Shutter (Part #D7230). Use one automatic shutter for
available locally (home improvement outlets) and are relatively each four cubic feet of refrigerator space. For the shutter, cut a
easy to work with. slot 1-1/8” high x 4” wide instead of a 3” hole.
For side door refrigerators, a Spillover Fan Kit #C7210 is

preferred—please see the following section.
Optional: Owner installed 2” foamcore

insulated partition.
Large Vertical
Evaporator Alternative location
for evaporator
3” diameter adjustable opening in middle of

partition for cold air to refrigerator. Provide
a 10 sq. in. opening at top for air return.
Large Refrigeration or Combination Box—9–15 cubic feet total
OPTIONS:
• “All Refrigerator” without optional partition: provides ample • “Divided Refrigerator-Freezer” with customer-installed partition:
capacity for 3 ice trays (which are standard) and frozen food, or provides additional freezer capacity (up to approximately 3
9 ice trays only and no frozen food. cubic feet). Minimum 4” of insulation is mandatory, all surface
including lids and countertops.
Top opening refrigerator/freezer using
one or two #D7230 automatic shutters
(one shutter for each 4 cubic foot of
refrigerator volume)
Side door refrigerator and top opening

freezer using #C7210 spillover fan with
thermostatic control.
OPTIONAL CUSTOM
FORMED EVAPORATOR
contact factory for
more information
FREEZER
REFRIGERATOR
with large vertical
with small vertical evaporator
evaporator
SEPARATE REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER USING TWO (2) FREEZER:

INDEPENDENT ColdMachine™ SYSTEMS The large evaporator is used for freezer applications up to 6 cubic
feet with box insulation 4” or better, 8 cubic feet with insulation
Use this arrangement for a single, large, fully partitioned box or of 6” or better.
for two separate boxes in different locations.
REFRIGERATOR:
The standard small vertical or small horizontal evaporator is used
for refrigerators up to 9 cubic feet. The large evaporator is used
for refrigerators up to 9—15 cubic feet.
HORIZONTAL APPLICATIONS:
Mount the evaporator unit horizontally from the roof of
the icebox. Standoffs (1”) and mounting screws (1-3/4”)
are supplied. Allow clearance for the freezer door to swing open.
MOUNTING THE EVAPORATOR
Plan the installation to allow for minimum modification of

existing shelving.
5. Feed the tube set through the boat to the compressor unit.
1. Using the paper template supplied, mark the location of the Do not attempt to connect the mating couplings or remove
four mounting holes. the plastic caps yet.
2. Position the refrigerant tube exit hole in the icebox for 6. Fasten the freezer unit to the icebox liner with 1-3/4”
minimum bending and strain on the evaporator and tube set. stainless steel screws and 1” plastic standoffs supplied.
Mark its location (1-1/2” diameter).
7. Position the rubber insulation sleeve on the tube set so that
3. Drill the mounting holes using a 9/64” drill and the tube set its end is flush with the inside of the liner of the icebox with
exit hole using a 1-1/2” hole saw. the balance extending outside.
4. Unroll the entire tube set. An assistant is very helpful here. 8. Form excess tubing, if any, into an 18” (approx)
It is often easier to unroll the entire tube set and stretch it diameter coil in the horizontal plane above the
outside the boat. Feed the tube set and couplings through compressor unit or at any other convenient location.
the holes in the icebox and bulkheads while an assistant
supports the freezer unit and keeps the tubing feeding
9. As shown below, seal the icebox hole using the mastic
smoothly without damaging it. Be careful not to kink,
sealant (“Mortite”) supplied.
flatten or strain joints. Make sure the plastic caps are in
place over the refrigerant couplings. Keep dirt out of the
couplings.
Insulation
Rubber sleeve Inside of Icebox
Mastic Sealant
OUTSIDE OF BOX Tubing INSIDE OF BOX
Fill space with

SEALING HOLE scrap Insulation
IN ICEBOX
REFRIGERANT
COUPLINGS
Male Couplings Female Couplings
ALL-METAL PIERCING TYPE COUPLINGS • The tubing must not be allowed to vibrate or chafe.
• Seal the exit hole in the icebox wall using the supplied
mastic.
Once connected, the All-Metal Piercing Type Couplings on this
system cannot be disconnected without total loss of the ALL-METAL PIERCING TYPE REFRIGERANT
refrigerant charge. COUPLINGS AS USED ON
ADLER/BARBOUR SYSTEMS COMMENCING
DESIGN ADVANTAGES:
NO LEAKS: Couplings cannot leak prior to connection because
JANUARY 2001
both halves are sealed shut by brazed all-metal diaphragms.
DESIGN & OPERATION
MIX & MATCH: Each half of your system is precisely charged with A complete 5780 series coupling consists of the combination of
refrigerant at the factory. After coupling together, the completed male and female coupling halves. You have the option of
system will have the correct total charge. choosing either coupling half with or without a charging port,
RESULT: Any Adler/Barbour VD-150 series aluminum evaporator, depending on your particular application.
VD-160 PowerPlate, or VD-170 series blower evaporator can be
connected to any CU-100 ColdMachine™ or CU-200 COUPLING HALVES BEFORE CONNECTION
SuperColdMachine™ condensing unit. Diaphragms in the coupling halves provide a seal that prevents
refrigerant loss before connection. The male half (right unit)
NOTE: Our 50 Series and 80 Series products each have their own contains a cutter blade, the metal refrigerant sealing diaphragm
“families” of charge-balanced evaporators. They are not and intermediate synthetic rubber seal which prevents loss of
interchangeable with each other or with the ColdMachine™ refrigerant while the coupling is being connected. The female half
evaporator family. Nor can a 50 Series or 80 Series condensing (left unit) contains a metal diaphragm, which is leakproof metal
unit be used to replace a ColdMachine™ CU-100 or CU-200 closure.
condensing unit by coupling it to a ColdMachine™ Series VD-150,
VD-160, VD-170 evaporator. COUPLING HALVES CONNECTED
Tightening the union nut draws the coupling halves together,
TOOLS FOR THE ALL-METAL PIERCING TYPE COUPLINGS: piercing and folding both metal diaphragms back and opening
• Use a 5/8” wrench for the male coupling the fluid passages, thereby providing minimal restriction to flow.
When fully coupled, a parent metal seal forms a permanent
• Use a 13/16” wrench for the female coupling
leakproof joint between the two coupling halves preventing the
• Tighten both couplings to 12–14 ft / lbs. loss of refrigerant to the atmosphere.
(16.3 to 19.1 newton/meters)
COUPLING HALVES BEFORE CONNECTION

TOOLS FOR THE TUBE SET CONNECTION TO POWERPLATE:
• Use a 5/8” wrench for the male coupling. Do not loosen the Diaphragms Cutter
coupling from its brazed-on base.
• Use a 3/4” wrench for the female coupling. Do not loosen the
coupling from its brazed-on base.
• Tighten both couplings to 12–15 ft / lbs.
(16.3 to 20.3 newton/meters)
BEFORE CONNECTING
Secure tubing and wiring to protect from chafe and vibration.
• Coil the excess tubing and the thermostat wiring
harness in an 18” to 24” diameter coil and secure
COUPLING HALVES CONNECTED
preferably in a horizontal orientation. Parent
Intermediate Seal
Metal Seal
• Support the refrigerant tube set and the wire harness using
clamps and/or plastic wire ties (4 supplied).
• Keep the tube set and harness out of bilge water and protected
from chafe and vibration.
The three illustrations below show you a cutaway view NOTE the way the cutter blades pierce the diaphragms
of the male and female coupling halves being joined at and fold them back out of the flow path. Also note the
20%, 50% and 100% connection. difference in the final sealing area before and after
torquing.
20% Connected 50% Connected
Final Sealing Area Final Sealing Area

connected prior to connected after
torquing torquing
100% Connected
STEP-BY-STEP:
ASSEMBLING THE ONESHOT COUPLINGS
COUPLINGS MUST BE IMMACULATELY CLEAN FINAL TIGHTENING

— Leaving plastic caps and plugs in place, carefully wipe off — This step must be performed correctly or a permanent
the fittings to remove dirt, dust and moisture. Now remove the leak-proof joint will not be achieved.
plastic caps from the refrigerant couplings on the compressor — Using a marker pen, draw a line from the male coupling body
unit, and from the mating refrigerant couplings at the end of to and over the female coupling as a reference. Tighten the
the tube set. Don’t touch the brass hex dome nuts on the female coupling one more 1/4 turn while holding the male
side ports of the evaporator couplings! They are there for coupling hex stationary. This 1/4 turn is essential to ensure
possible future servicing only. that the final metal-to-metal seal is completed, forming a
permanently leak-proof joint.
CONNECT THE LOWER REFRIGERANT COUPLING FIRST
— Thread the coupling halves together by hand to ensure proper FINAL TORQUE
mating of the threads. When screwing the male and female Coupling Torque required: 12 to 14 foot pounds (16.3 to 19.1
halves together, align them carefully to avoid strain and cross newton / meters). Imagine a 14 pound weight at the end of a
threading. If you have difficulty aligning the coupling halves one-foot wrench) EXCEPT for the small PowerPlate-to-tube set
properly, it may be necessary to temporarily shift the couplings which require 10–15 ft lbs. See the PowerPlate section
compressor unit for better alignment. in your manual.
TURN ONLY THE FREE-TURNING PART OF THE FEMALE If your final 1/4 turn did not require this much torque, your
COUPLING couplings are still loose. TO REPEAT: The 1/4 turn starts after
— Do not try to turn the male coupling. Just hold it with your 5/8” the couplings are already very tight.
wrench. If the male coupling is twisted from its copper tubing,
there will be a refrigerant leak (that is why 2 wrenches must Now connect the upper set of couplings.
be used).
— Same procedure except: the male coupling is held securely by
— Using the 5/8” wrench on the male coupling body hex and the its support bracket, so you do not have to use 2 wrenches.
13/16” wrench on the female coupling (holding the male
— Save the plastic caps in the event the unit ever needs to be
coupling hex stationary), tighten (CW/Clockwise) the female
uninstalled and returned for service.
until the coupling halves bottom out and strong resistance is
felt. THIS WILL REQUIRE ABOUT 6 FULL TURNS.
— Work rapidly to minimize any possible escape of refrigerant
past the temporary rubber O-ring seal (it is inside the male
coupling). Occasionally there may be a slight “hiss” and/or a
drop or two of refrigerant oil when making these connections.
Don’t stop if this happens—just continue until the couplings
feel very tight. The final seal is metal-to-metal).
INSTALLING THE ANALOG (KNOB TYPE) THERMOSTAT We recommend that you also use the mounting screws by drilling
Mount the thermostatic control unit high in the icebox, away from two 9/64” holes through the thermostat flange holes.
moisture and spillage. It should also be visible and accessible. It
is acceptable to mount the thermostatic control unit outside of INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (see drawing below).
the icebox space if you prefer. At least 12” of capillary sensing 1. Carefully unroll just enough capillary tubing to reach the
tube must be inside the box. metal and plastic clamp plates on the side of the freezer unit.
Via this tube, the thermostatic control unit “senses” the
The capillary sensing tube is 36” long and must reach from the temperature of the freezer unit. Bend the last 2 inches back
thermostatic control unit to the clamping plate on the side of the into a “J” shape. Slide the “J” shaped end between the metal
freezer unit. It must be routed along the icebox wall—clear of and plastic plates and fasten the screws firmly. Be sure that
food, shelving, etc. four inches of tubing are clamped under the metal plate or
the thermostatic control unit will not function properly.
The thermostat can be mounted by using either the adhesive 2. Secure the coil and tube against chafing. (Leave the excess
backing on the thermostat mounting flanges or the stainless steel capillary tubing coiled). The tube must not touch the freezer
mounting screws (supplied). unit at any point except the clamp plates or an erratic control
cycle will result.
If using the adhesive backing, the mounting area must be clean 3. Uncoil the 21 foot electrical harness from the thermostat and
and dry. Peel off the protective backing from the adhesive foam run it alongside the refrigerant tube set to the condensing
on both mounting flanges of the thermostatic control unit, unit phone jack. Plug this harness into its mating receptacle
position carefully and press firmly to adhere. on the face of the junction box.
VertiCube™ Ice Cube Trays
Thermostatic Control
USING THE
ICE TRAY SEPARATOR
The separator keeps the ice
cube trays in firm contact with
the cold evaporator.
Plastic Plate
Metal Plate
Evaporator
FORMING & ATTACHING THE THERMOSTAT

SENSING TUBE TO THE EVAPORATOR
The sensing tube from the thermostat must
be formed into a 2-1/2” “J” and clamped
between the plastic plate and metal plate
INSTALLING THE DIGITAL THERMOSTAT
(if supplied)
This optional control has several advanced features,

including:
• Touch-pad status indicator for cut-out,
cut-in temperatures 3.1”
• LED relay status indicator
• Temperature setpoint display
• Programmable setpoint and differential Cut Out
• Large (.56”) red LED display 1.35” Dimensions
Installing this control is fast and simple. When plan-

ning the control location, keep in mind that the sens- Evaporator
ing bulb wire is 10 feet long.
MOUNTING THE CONTROL HEAD

1. Make the cutout for the control 3.1” x 1.35”
(79mm x 34mm)
Wall opposite
2. Snap the control head through the mount
faceplate. evaporator unit
3. Mount the faceplate using the four black screws
provided.
MOUNTING THE TEMPERATURE SENSING

BULB
1. Run the sensing bulb and wire into the refrigerated
box to be controlled. Mount the sensing bulb on a
box side wall midway between top and bottom,
using the two nylon clamps and screws provided.
(NOTE: This is an air-sensing bulb, and is not
clamped to the evaporator.)
2. Keep the bulb as far away as possible from the
evaporator (approximately 2 feet away) and out
of the direct airflow if a spillover fan kit is
installed.
3. Secure the excess wire to protect it from chafe and
damage.
CONNECT THE CONTROL HEAD

TO THE CONDENSING UNIT
1. The digital control has a pre-wired power and
signal cable, terminating in a male 4-pin phone
plug. This plug mates with the phone jack (socket)
located on the face of the electrical box on the
condensing unit and marked “T” STAT CONNECTION.
14 WAECO USA, Inc. Tel. (860) 664-4911 • Fax. (860) 664-4912 • www.waecousa.com
MOUNTING THE POWERPLATE SMALL COUPLING TORQUE REQUIRED
12–15 foot pounds (less than the large couplings)
1. Plan the installation to position the PowerPlate in the
preferred orientation: on a vertical wall of the refriger- CONNECTING THE PLATE COUPLINGS (from tube set to
ator (or freezer) cabinet with the label on top. In this PowerPlate)
position, the PowerPlate will perform at maximum 1. Remove the protective caps of one mating pair of the
couplings inside the box (start with either pair). Screw the
efficiency. If this is not possible, it may be installed in
couplings halves together until they bottom metal-to-metal
any spatial orientation; but a small reduction of
with very firm pressure (about 4 turns) using two wrenches:
efficiency may result. 5/8” and 3/4”.
2. Position the PowerPlate high in the compartment— 2. Mark the coupling halves. Using your two wrenches (do not
within 2 inches of the top for best results. use pliers, visegrips, etc) tighten couplings an additional one
3. Be sure to leave room for mating and tightening the flat (1/6 turn). This should require considerable wrench
couplings that connect the PowerPlate to the tube set. torque. If it did not, you did not “bottom” the couplings first.
3. Repeat the above for the other pair of coupling halves.
4. Mark and drill four (4) mounting holes using a 9/64”
drill and a tube exit hole using a 1-1/2” hole saw.
IMPORTANT: Save all coupling protective caps. Put them in a
5. Be sure to use the supplied four (4) plastic spacers to marked container and keep aboard. If a future service procedure
ensure that the PowerPlate is spaced away from the requires that any coupling pair be disconnected, these caps must
cabinet wall to permit air circulation behind it for best be re-installed immediately to keep out dirt.
efficiency. Do not mount the PowerPlate flush against To connect the couplings to condensing unit, please refer to
the wall as a major loss of performance will result. section entitled “Refrigerant Couplings.” After completing this
section, seal the black rubber insulating sleeve to the outside of
the refrigerated box airtight, using Mortite or other (removable-
POWER PLATE TUBE SET
type) caulking sealant. All three (3) feet of sleeve must be
Drill a 1-1/2” diameter hole through the cabinet wall for outside the box. This sleeve may butt against the outer wall or
the tube set. Unroll the tube set. Feed the end with the the inner liner.
couplings into the box. Do not remove the protective caps
yet. Excess tubing: Form a coil about 18” in diameter, (taking care not
Position the insulating sleeving OUTSIDE (not inside) the to deform the tubes) in the horizontal orientation if possible, and
refrigerated space. The end of the sleeve should butt secure tightly to the bulkheads, etc. using plastic wire straps.
against the outside wall of the box (you will be sealing Protect tubing from chafe and vibration with soft sleeving as
this joint later with mastic putty included in your kit.) necessary.
Route the service port coupling ends of the tube set

through the boat to the condensing unit. Do not remove
the protective caps yet.
Before you connect the refrigerant couplings to the

power plate, refer back to the section entitled
“Refrigerant Couplings” for additional information. Have
the required 5/8 and 3/4 wrenches at hand now. Do not
allow any dirt, sawdust, foam insulation dust, etc., to get
into couplings ends as this will seriously damage the
system.
These couplings are different from the couplings that join

the tube set to the condensing unit. The small couplings
are screwed, o-ringed, and LocTite-sealed to the bases
that are in-turn soldered to the copper tubes. Therefore,
it is most important that you do not unscrew the small
couplings from their bases. Put your wrenches on the
coupling bodies only!
ELECTRICAL CONSIDERATIONS
WATER COOLED OPTION PACKAGE: How it works and why
To get absolutely top performance from your

SuperColdMachine, you can add this package at any time It is strongly recommended that you switch the pump off
in the future if not with your original installation. If inlet while using dockside power. With the battery charger
air temperature to the SuperColdMachine exceeds 90°F, working, it is more important to extend the life of the
switching to water cool mode will produce shorter “on” water pump than it is to save battery power.
times and lower average amp draw. As air temperature Example: You left the boat on Sunday night, plugged in,
increases, the water-cooled advantage increases. In freezer full of food, and left the water pump on. On
tropical conditions, the total daily power consumption can Wednesday, a plastic bag gets sucked into the pump
be reduced by 25—40%. intake. The pump runs dry, its impeller shaft locks up, the
pump motor stalls. The result is a damaged pump bear-
When you select “water pump on” using the switch panel ing requiring replacement (available from WAECO USA).
provided with this option, note that the built-in fan (and The “pump / fan” fuse may or may not blow. If it does,
the Powerduct fan, if fitted) continues to run. This ensures the frozen food may be lost because the unit may shut
a flow of air over the compressor to keep it relatively cool down to protect itself. It is important to shut off the pump
and is normal. when you leave.
WATER COOLED OPTION INSTALLATION
Please refer to the diagrams below.
6. Heeling can obviously be a problem since the pump may be
well below the waterline at rest or on one tack, but not on
Basic rules for a good installation. the other. Traps and airlocks may also be created when the
1. The pump must be at least 1 foot below waterline at all boat is heeling. In most cases, the positive “ram effect”
times (regardless of which tack you are on). created by the outside hull inlet scoop will overcome these
problems. This is another reason why the scoop is so
2. The pump orientation must be as pictured—no other
important.
positions will work.
7. Overboard thruhull (supplied) must be above the waterline—
3. The strainer should be mounted with the bowl pointing
so you can verify pump operation.
downward, otherwise, it will trap air and possibly
airlock the water pump. 8. Total hose length must not exceed the 15 feet furnished.
4. Inlet thruhull must not be “shared” with any power-driven 9. Total lift (example: highest point of piping above pump)
pump and absolutely not the engine’s intake! you may must no exceed 5 feet.
“tee-off” a toilet inlet, cockpit drain, galley seawater foot- 10. No “traps” allowed! This means no “dips” in hoses. They
pump line, etc., provided that the seacock is at least 2” must run level or steadily uphill from inlet to strainer to
below the waterline. pump to highest point. To simplify, if you picked the boat up
5. Inlet thruhull must have a “scoop” facing forward on the in slings, the entire water circuit (except for strainer
outside of the hull to prevent “back siphoning.” At high contents) must drain through the inlet thruhull.
sailing speeds, the flow direction may reverse, introducing
air into the pump and damaging it. Failure to provide this
scoop is the major cause of pump failures.
Cockpit
Overboard Discharge Drain
Compressor Vented
Line
Water Line Water Line

Continuous
Rise
Preferred Arrangement Acceptable Arrangement
Air Lock
NO OTHER
POSITIONS ARE
PERMITTED! UNacceptable Alignment
Discharge
Inlet
Base Vertical Discharge Base Horizontal Discharge

Points UP is approx. Horizontal
BATTERY RECOMMENDATIONS few manufacturers of genuine, marine, heavy-duty, deep cycle
wet-type batteries are creating a public awareness of the
inadequacies of disguised, re-labeled automotive batteries for
A minimum of THREE marine-grade batteries are strongly marine use, particularly as house batteries in sailing yachts.
recommended: One exclusively for engine starting and the other
two as a single bank for all other DC electrical devices such as GEL and AGM Batteries (as distinguished from so-called
lights, electronics and your system. The second battery or group “maintenance free” auto batteries ): Several high quality products
of batteries (wired in series or parallel depending on voltage) is are available in all popular sizes. They perform comparably to the
commonly called the “house bank.” A standard marine battery very best wet-type deep cycle traditional batteries, but require
selector switch should be installed to isolate each battery or little or no maintenance. However they require very carefully
battery bank. regulated charging systems, and cannot be simply interchanged
with wet batteries.
The house bank should be at least 300 amp/hour capacity. More
is desirable. The larger the battery bank, the longer you can What all this means is that a boat owner with a full complement
operate the various loads between engine charging and the of equipment aboard such as electronics, refrigeration, auto-pilot,
faster you can recharge. This is because the alternator actual stereo, etc and who feels the engine must be run too long for
output in amps is greater into a larger battery bank. Experts battery charging, can get very substantial improvements by using
suggest the bank’s nominal amp/hour rating should be four the technology and equipment now available.
times (4x) the alternator’s rated (hot) output.
We strongly urge all boat owners to take advantage of the

The following ampere/hour capabilities are recommended for excellent technical manuals, articles and products now available
the house bank, which serves the ColdMachine™. in the marine industry. There is no longer any reason to put up
with long hours of engine running and marginal electrical
For the “casual cruiser” 25-35 feet, seldom away from dock systems.
for longer than overnight …minimum 200 amp/hours
For the “serious cruiser” 30-50 feet, often cruising for a week
or more …minimum 300 amp/hours
For the charter yacht or tropics-based “serious cruiser”

operating in hot climates and requiring greater quantities of
ice cubes and frozen foods …. Minimum 400 amp/hours. WIRING THE SYSTEM
All Adler/Barbour products from December 1998 forward
High Output Alternator, Electrical Management Systems, and incorporate a new, more powerful and more energy efficient
Batteries compressor featuring a 3-phase AC motor, which is driven and
digitally managed by the electronic module (the finned device
on the side of the compressor).
The continuing proliferation of electrical and electronic devices
aboard boats has produced great interest in reducing engine-
running time required for battery charging. Specialty high-output NOTE: The electronic module is not repairable, should not be
alternators are readily available. Several manufacturers offer opened and must be replaced if damaged.
complete electrical generation and management systems. It is
now entirely practical for medium sized cruising boats to support This control unit, like most electrical devices, requires fairly
DC refrigeration, inverter-driven galley appliances, navigational “clean” DC current for stable operation and long service life.
systems including computerized charting and radars, all with very Batteries provide clean, ripple-free DC current. Many battery
acceptable daily engine hours for battery charging. chargers, alternators and AC/DC converters may not. This means
that the ColdMachine should not be connected directly to any of
As to batteries, a good deal of misinformation still exists these devices, unless a battery is between them in the circuit.
regarding “marine,” “deep-cycle” and “deep-discharge” batteries.
These terms generally describe a battery constructed to provide
small-to-moderate currents for long periods of time, as opposed
to short bursts of high current to start engines. While “deep-
cycle” batteries start engines quite satisfactorily, engine-starting
batteries are very poor for small current, long-term tasks.
Automotive, sealed, or so-called “maintenance-free” wet-type
batteries are okay for the engine start battery, but are not suitable
for the house or service battery bank that runs all the other
equipment on your boat regardless of how they are labeled. A
VOLTAGE DROPS MAKING THE POWER CONNECTIONS
When in the starting mode, the ColdMachine may momentarily Use color-coded wire so you know which is positive (+) and
draw nearly 10 amps, even though the continuous running which is negative (-). Connect the positive wire to the (+) screw
current is between 3 and 5 amps. If the electronic control module on the terminal strip. Contact the (-) terminal screw to the
does not “see” at least 11.0V DC during the start period, it will negative lead to the battery, or the main negative terminal or
abort. Therefore, to avoid erratic problems, the supply wiring busbar.
must be correctly sized-please see Wire Size Table.
WIRE SIZE
Make your wiring connection in one of these three ways: Wire size is critical. If you use undersized wire, your system will
1. Directly to the battery via a 15A breaker run erratically, often fail to start, produce unsatisfactory cooling
(recommended). (*) See note. and fail early in its service life. Use a wire gauge size based on
2. To a heavy output terminal on the battery selector switch, the total distance from the compressor unit to the battery selector
via a 15A breaker (recommended). switch.
3. To the ship’s distribution breaker panel. This method is
acceptable if the selected breaker is directly re-wired to
the main battery selector switch with its own heavy wire.
If not directly re-wired, the voltage drops within the panel
will be excessive and cause erratic operation.
WIRE SIZE TABLE
Use the shortest possible route for wiring between the unit and
battery to avoid voltage drops. Maximum distance from Gauge
compressor unit to battery AWG
Install a 15 amp circuit breaker in the positive leg for line 4’ and under #14
protection. The circuit breaker is also necessary for long “off” 5’ to 10’ #12
periods because even with the thermostat off, there is still a milli- 11’ to 17’ #10
amp range current flow in the system. 18’ to 27’ #8*
28’ to 35’ #6*
Make sure that all wiring conforms to applicable safety 36’ to 50’ #4*
regulations. Note that a replaceable 15 amp fuse located on the
condensing unit provides backup protection in case the breaker *The terminal block on the junction box will accept #10 AWG wire
should fail in the shorted condition. maximum. If you need to run heavier wiring, you should
terminate it at a suitable-sized heavy terminal strip and run #10
Use marine quality connectors and circuit breaker to prevent AWG from there to your condensing unit.
voltage drops in the supply circuit to the ColdMachine. Also, do
not install voltage dropping devices such as indicator lights, volt
and amp meters, etc., in the 12 volt DC wiring circuit.
Correct polarity is critical. If you connect in reverse, the system

will not operate. Should this occur, correct your wiring. The
system will automatically re-start.
(*) NOTE: The main fuse on the CM or SCM junction box is 15

amp. WAECO calls for a 15 amp breaker in the (+) DC
supply for several reasons:
1. The breaker will generally trip before the fuse will blow,
thus saving a crawl through the bilge.
2. The installer may use an incorrect higher-rated breaker, so
the 15A fuse will still provide proper circuit protection.
3. In very hot ambient temperatures, the largest systems may
briefly draw more than 10 amps for a few seconds,
resulting in nuisance trips if a 10A breaker is fitted.
OPERATION OF SYSTEM DEFROSTING
Defrost your refrigerator when frost gets over 1/4” thick. This should not
occur in less than a month or so. Excessively fast or thick frost formation
START UP is an indication of moist, outside air entering through a poorly-sealed lid,
Turn the thermostatic control clockwise to about #2 or #3, (#1 on the doors or liner joints. These conditions must be eliminated for proper
thermostatic control is the warmest setting.....#7 is the coldest) performance.
The best way to defrost is to turn the power off. Open the icebox lid or
The ColdMachine system will now start. Within a few minutes, the door and allow sufficient time for the freezer unit to defrost naturally.
evaporator will begin to frost (note that a PowerPlate will take much Never use an icepick, knife or other metal object—you could pierce the
longer before frost is visible on the surface). The system will operate refrigerant coils.
continuously until the box cabinet and contents have been brought to the
selected temperature. The system will then cycle off, and thereafter cycle BATTERY CARE
on and off—maintaining proper temperature (similar to a home Batteries are one of the most neglected and abused items on boats.
refrigerator). Unlike automobiles, boat engines run slowly and infrequently. The
batteries tend to be buried in the bilge, are damp, dirty and chronically
AC/DC OPERATION undercharged. Boat wiring is subject to corrosion at various connections,
The ColdMachine will also operate automatically at dockside with the which creates voltage drops as we add more electrical devices each
addition of a battery charger. We recommend a quality MARINE battery season. As these electrical loads grow, it becomes even more important
charger (not an automotive charger) of sufficient size to handle your that you keep your battery and charging system at top efficiency.
ColdMachine along with the other onboard DC loads (such as lights,
stereo and electronics). In addition, batteries can be deceptive. They may look good and read
For the ColdMachine, figure approximately 5 amps when running. The normal voltage, but may have deteriorated internally and be unable to
average draw, as the ColdMachine cycles on and off, is 1.8 to 2.4 amps deliver adequate power for more than short periods of time.
for most 4 to 8 cubic foot iceboxes with average (3 inch plus) rigid
polyurethane foam insulation. WET TYPE BATTERIES
Check you batteries at least every month with a hydrometer
MAINTENANCE (inexpensive and available from automotive supply stores). The readings
Regular or seasonal maintenance is normally not needed, nor is of each cell should be approximately the same. If one reading is lower
maintenance required for winter storage or decommissioning. However, than the other, it indicates a defective battery. Use distilled water only.
you should wash the evaporator occasionally and again before winter
storage (use a mild detergent such as Joy or Ivory). In addition, the air EQUALIZING (WET TYPE BATTERIES ONLY)
condenser (the radiator-like object in the condensing unit) can get
During periodic equalizing, the battery voltage can exceed 15 or even 16
clogged with dirt and should be carefully vacuumed seasonally with a
soft brush attachment. Be careful not to bend the cooling fins. If a water- volts. To prevent possible damage to your unit, shut the
cooled option kit is installed, the water circuit must be drained or filled Adler/Barbour system off before starting the equalizing
with anti-freeze solution. process.
ALL BATTERIES
Check your batteries seasonally with a “battery load tester” (obtain from
a boatyard or mechanic). This tests the battery’s condition and capacity
under a heavy actual load.
If your batteries do not pass these test, replace them. You are just
wasting valuable fuel, engine hours and time in trying to charge them.
Observing the following points can add to the dependability and
operational life of your battery:
• Keep the tops of the batteries clean and dry. A damp battery can lose
20% of its charge in a day.
• Keep the battery post clamps tight, clean and free from corrosion.
WINTER OPERATION • DIFFERENTIAL (dF) This is the difference between the cut-in and cut-
If ambient temperatures drop below 35°F in the operational area of the out temperature of the thermostat. The differential must be a negative
condensing unit, it may be necessary to block off half of the air value. If it is set as a positive value, the relay in the thermostat will
condenser face area (on the side opposite the condenser fan motor) with close on temperature fall and open on temperature rise. In other
a piece of cardboard to maintain system efficiency. The cardboard can words, it will respond as a heating thermostat instead of a cooling
simply be taped in place for the winter season and removed in the spring thermostat. Do not set a positive differential. Do not set a differential
when seasonal temperatures return to above 35°F. of 0 (zero).
• HIGH & LOW SET POINT LIMITS (HI & LO) Allow you to limit the
range at which temperature set points can be programmed. This is
factory set and should not need to be adjusted, unless changing from
PROGRAMMING DIGITAL CONTROL refrigerator to freezer or vice versa..
(if supplied with your system)
TO PROGRAM DIFFERENTIAL (dF) (HI) AND (LO) POINTS
Should only be adjusted if necessary. To start the process, you must
The digital thermostat is pre-programmed at the factory. If settings have press the hidden button located behind the “F” symbol at the upper right
to be changed, the following information will allow you to easily corner of the control to program these settings. After programming, you
program the controller. must press the “F” button until the screen goes blank.
1. Press “F” once. “DF1” will appear on the screen. Press “F” again. A
• SET POINT (SP) This is the desired temperature of the refrigerator. It negative value will appear. Use the appropriate “ADJUST” arrow to
is pre-programmed at the factory to a temperature range of 35—45°F change this setting.
(0—20°F for freezer).
2. This event must be set to a negative value but should not be lower
than —5 to avoid short-cycling.
3. Press the “F” button again. The screen will read “HI”. Press “F” again
TO PROGRAM SET POINT (SP1) and you will read a value. This is the high setpoint limit. It prevents
1. To start the programming sequence, press the SET button once. Unit the control from being tampered with and raised any higher than this
displays “SP1” (set point 1) point. Now you can press the “ADJUST” arrows to get to your desired
setpoint.
2. Press the SET button again to display SP1 value.
4. Press the “F” button again. The screen will display “LO”. Press the “F”
3. To program an increase or decrease in SP1, press the appropriate
and you will read the LO setpoint limit. Use the “ADJUST” arrows to
ADJUST arrow.
change it.
4. To complete the programming sequence, press the SET button until
5. Pressing the “F” button again will display “CAL”. Press “F” again and
the screen goes blank. After five seconds, the unit will automatically
you should see 00. This should never be changed. If “CAL” reads any
display sensor temperature.
value either than 00, use the “ADJUST” arrows until it reads 00.
6. Press the “F” button again. You will see a blank screen. The
reprogramming has been accepted and the control will now revert to
the box temperature display mode.
NOTE: If the programming sequence is interrupted for more than 15
seconds or not set to the blank screen, the thermostat will revert to
temperature display without acknowledging any new inputs.
• CALIBRATION (CAL) Factory calibrated to a certified standard.

Do not alter or change.
ELECTRONIC MODULE SYSTEM OPERATIONAL ERRORS INDICATED BY THE
MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION FLASHING LED ON THE CONDENSING UNIT
The ColdMachine is designed for nominal 12 volt DC operating. The If the electronic module “senses” a malfunction, it will auto-
normal operating range is 10.0 volts —15.0 volts. The electronic module matically switch into its protective mode and will make
will automatically shut off the system if voltage at the module input repeated start attempts at about 1 minute intervals.
terminal falls below 10.0 volts. As the battery recharges, the electronic
module will automatically turn the system on when the voltage reaches (1) FLASH
11.1 volts. This circuity protects the battery from the damaging effects of Low Voltage Supply. If the supply voltage measured at the
a complete discharge and also protects the ColdMachine from chronic upper (-) and (+) terminals of the electronic module drops
low voltage operation. below 10.0 V DC, the system will shut down. It will not restart
until 11.1 V DC is maintained throughout the momentary high-
MANAGEMENT FUNCTIONS INCLUDE: current start attempt.
• High and low voltage protection (10.0 V DC to 17.0 V DC ) (*) NOTE
• Reverse polarity protections (compressor will not operate) (2) FLASHES
• High temperature cutout if electronic unit is overheated Relay Coil Circuit Overload. The relay coil and/or its wiring is
• Overload protection if compressor is dangerously overloaded (by shorted. The electronic module shuts off the output current that
overcharging or extreme high temperature) drives the coil. The fan(s) and water pump (optional) will not
• Automatic start abort if the compressor motor cannot rotate operate. (*)
• Battery protection: Low voltage cut out prevents total battery discharge
or drain (3) FLASHES
• Fan relay circuit protection (0.5 amp max; overcurrent will cause Compressor Motor Starting Problem. The motor rotor (arma-
system to shut down) ture) is mechanically blocked or stuck or the differential pres-
• LED diagnostics sure inside the compressor is too high and the motor cannot
start.
(*) NOTE: If voltage reaches 17.0 V DC, the module “thinks” it is a 24 V
DC system suffering from low voltage, and LED will display one flash. The
(4) FLASHES
module will probably survive. The fan(s) and pump (optional) may not.
Under-speed Compressor Motor Problem. If the compressor
cannot reach or maintain its minimum speed of 1800 RPM (due
to poor condenser air flow, overcharge, air in the system,
extremely hot ambient temperature), it will automatically shut
down.
(5) FLASHES
Electronic Overload. The electronic module is overheated
and/or the system has been heavily overloaded (by very high
ambients, fan and/or pump failure, air in the refrigerant circuit,
and/or refrigerant overcharge.
If the system displays any unusual symptoms, runs continuous-

ly or does not cool properly, please refer to the Trouble shoot-
ing guide.
(*) NOTE: Do not operate the system longer than 10 minutes

without the fan running.
For further assistance, please contact

WAECO USA’S
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE DEPARTMENT
Monday through Friday
8am to 5pm EST
Tel: (860) 664-4911
Fax: (860) 664-4912
TROUBLESHOOTING
LED BLINK SYMPTOM TEST / DIAGNOSIS CORRECTIVE

CODE ACTION
Compressor and fan do not No power to unit / Blown fuse Replace MAIN fuse (15 amp).
attempt to start Correct wiring refer to manual
Reverse polarity Correct polarity
3 Pressure too high Wait, try again
3 Faulty electronic module Replace module
Faulty compressor Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
2 Faulty / shorted delay Replace PCB inside stainless
steel electrical box
1 Compressor and fan attempt Low voltage at unit: C/o=9.6V Charge battery
to start as shown by momentary C/in=11.0V
voltage dip, fan movement or
compressor vibration
1 Excessive voltage drop from battery Correct wiring (refer to manual)
to unit during start-up attempt
3,4 Internal refrigerant pressures Shut off power, wait 15 minutes,
not yet equalized restore power
Faulty electronic module Replace electronic module
3 Faulty compressor Call factory
5 Excessively hot electronic module Improve air flow to unit
4,5 Overheated compressor Improve air flow to unit
2 Compressor does not run, Defective or shorted relay or Replace PCB inside stainless steel
fan does not run wiring drawing over 0.5 amps electrical box
activates protective circuit in electronic
module
Fan / Pump fuse blows Replace fuse (5 amp)
Faulty fan Replace fan
Faulty wiring to fan Repair wiring fault
Fan okay, but module faulty Replace electronic module
test by putting 12V to fan directly
Intermittent compressor/ Poor electrical supply, chronic Review manual, correct wiring
fan operation voltage fluctuations faults, recharge or replace battery
Faulty control module Replace control module
Faulty compressor Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
Power duct fan does not run Faulty fan (test with 12V DC power Replace fan
source)
Faulty wiring to power duct fan Repair wiring
TROUBLESHOOTING

CODE ACTION
Compressor and fan cycle Digital thermostat control setting Re-program digital control, lower-
but box not cold enough too warm or control is defective ing set point (SP) and “HI” and
“LO” settings (see manual) or
replace control
Analog thermostat set too warm Adjust control or replace
or defective
Evaporator too small for box Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
Thermostat tube touching evaporator See manual, correct
Compressor and fan runs, Inadequate air flow to condensing Remove blockage and/or
evaporator frosts, but box unit improve circulation
not cold enough
Refrigerant undercharge-only part Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
of the evaporator is frosting*
Refrigerant overcharge-evaporator Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
is fully frosted plus frost continues
along tube set beyond rubber
insulating sleeve
Partial clog in refrigerant circuit Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
only part of the evaporator is
frosting
3 Box insulation is inadequate or Re-insulate. Contact local dealer
box too large for assistance. Find local dealer
online: www.waecousa.com
3,4,5 Condensing unit in very hot area Relocate unit, remove blockage
and/or condenser fins blocked provide better airflow, review
Duct Kit section of this manual
Thermostat tube touching evaporator See manual, correct
Compressor and fan run No refrigerant in system: Loose Call WAECO USA first. Decision to
continuously, no cooling at all couplings, defective component(s) repair locally or return entire
punctured evaporator, broken system (evaporator & condensing
tubing. “Hiss” may be audible unit) to factory will be made
at evaporator when compressor before proceeding.
is running
Complete clog inside refrigerant Call WAECO USA for assistance
circuit: no audible “hiss” at in confirming this diagnosis and
evaporator while compressor best way to proceed
is running
*NOTE: FEDERAL LAW PROHIBITS SERVICING OF THIS REFRIGERANT CIRCUIT BY NON-CERTIFIED OPERATORS.
PLEASE CALL WAECO USA’S TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR ASSISTANCE.
TROUBLESHOOTING

CODE ACTION
Compressor and fan run Thermostat control set too cold Turn knob (analog) to lower
continuously, food in refrigerator number, and if digital re-program
freezes
Thermostat shorted, defective or Call WAECO USA (860.664-4911)
malfunctioning
Box very small or unusually Install partition between
well insulated evaporator and perishable food
section
Thermostat sensing bulb not See manual, correct
mounted correctly
Water pump runs, no water flow Air in pump, cannot self-purge Check piping for leaks, air entry
re-prime pump, re-pipe
(see instructions)
Impeller spindle damaged from Obtain service parts from factory
dry running
Obstructions in inlet pipe, strainer, Locate and eliminate
or outlet piping
Water pump motor does not run, Blown FAN/PUMP fuse on replace with 5 amp fuse
does not pump condensing unit
Defective wiring Locate and repair
Defective pump replace entire pump
Foreign material jammed pump Disassemble and remove
impeller
PROCEDURE FOR PROCEDURE FOR
REMOVING COMPRESSOR UNIT REMOVING EVAPORATOR AND TUBE SET
1. Turn off DC power supply breaker for unit. 1. Turn the thermostatic control to OFF.
2. Disconnect the mating plugs of the thermostat control wire 2. Disconnect the 12V DC power supply to the compressor unit.
harness approximately one foot from compressor unit. Carefully remove the sensing tube of the thermostatic control
3. Remove both DC power supply wires from the upper (-) and from its clamp on the side of the freezer by loosening two
(+) screws of the terminal strip module. screws and sliding out the “U” bend section of the tube.
4. Shut inlet seacock (if water cool option is installed). Remove 3. Disconnect both pairs of refrigerant couplings at the
the 2 hoses from the condensing unit. compressor unit (see item 4 of the “Procedure for Removing
5. Disconnect the mating plugs of the digital or analog Compressor Unit.”)
thermostat located on the condensing unit. 4. Remove the soft mastic caulking material from the exit hole
6. The refrigerant in this system must first be extracted by a into the icebox where the tubing and wire harness pass
qualified technician using approved recovery equipment through.
before the couplings can be loosened or disconnected. 5. Using a “stubby” screwdriver, unscrew the four mounting
7. Disconnect both refrigerant couplings. Use two open-end screws (save these) and carefully withdraw the entire
wrenches: 13/16” hex or 10” adjustable to turn the female freezer and its 15 foot tube set from the icebox.
coupling. 5/8” hex or 10” adjustable to hold the male 6. Be careful not to kink or flatten the tubing. Screw the plastic
coupling. sealing caps into the coupling to keep them clean.
8. Turn only the female coupling. Do not turn the male coupling. 7. Carefully roll up the entire coil by rolling it around a
If you twist the coupling from its soldered tubing connection, cylindrical object of about 18” diameter.
you will have a refrigerant leak. This is why you must use
two wrenches.
9. Remove the compressor unit from the boat. Handle carefully.
Do not pick it up by the tubing or electronic module. Be
careful not to cut your fingers on the cooling fins and do not
bend them (The fins are soft and thin for maximum PROCEDURE FOR
efficiency). REMOVING POWERPLATE AND TUBESET
1. Defrost the PowerPlate and thoroughly dry the small
couplings.
2. DIsconnect the 12V DC power supply to the condensing unit.
3. Disconnect the couplings at the PowerPlate, using correct
wrenches and taking care not to turn the soldered-in bases.
4. Install the plastic caps to protect the coupling.
5. Remove the PowerPlate by extracting the mounting screws
and plastic standoffs.
6. Remove the tubeset, first removing the soft self-sealing
mastic at the box exit.
7. Coil the tubeset carefully around a 12” diameter cylindrical
object.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
WAECO USA LIMITED WARRANTY Should your new WAECO USA or ADLER/BARBOUR product not
WAECO USA, Inc. warrants its products to be free of defects in perform properly, please refer to the trouble shooting section
materials and workmanship for the periods specified below of your owner’s manual first.
subject to the specified conditions and limitations. What WAECO
Will Do: Repair or replace (choice of remedy at Company's discre- If the problem persists, please have the following
tion) goods or parts that prove to be defective in materials or information available before placing a call to us:
workmanship after examination by a factory representative or
authorized service dealer.
PRODUCT SERIAL NUMBER
DATE OF PURCHASE
How long Coverage Lasts: COMPRESSOR PRODUCTS
LOCATION OF PURCHASE (DEALER)
Labor: WAECO will pay for necessary labor from an authorized
service agent for one year from date of purchase or third party
installation. For OEM factory installed products the duration is Call WAECO USA’s Customer Care Department @
one year from the date of purchase of the vehicle (vessel). (860) 664-4911 Monday – Friday 8:00am to 5:00pm EST.
Parts: WAECO will pay for necessary parts for two years from
the date of purchase or third partyinstallation. For OEM factory
installed products the duration is two years from the date of
purchase of the vehicle (vessel). Please do not return to place of purchase.
Call us, it may be something that was simply overlooked
and could easily be resolved over the telephone.
What is Not Covered:
1. Damages due to accident, misuse, abuse, normal wear,
improper installation, lack of reasonable and necessary main-
tenance, transportation, corrosion, tampering, improper repair, RETURN POLICY
unusual physical or electrical stress or recharging of the Returned products, parts and assemblies are subject to the
coolant. following terms and conditions:
2. Electric light bulbs or replaceable fuses.
3. Failures due to use of the products in applications for which 1. A Return Merchandise Authorization number (RMA) must
they are not intended. be issued PRIOR to the item(s) being returned for credit or
4. Warranty coverage following unauthorized service. repair.
5. Warranty coverage following transfer of ownership. 2. RMA’s will be issued prior to the return. When requesting
a RMA number, the following information must be
furnished:
How State Law Relates to this Warranty: • Your name or company name, address and telephone
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you also have number.
other rights, which vary from State to State. • Items (part numbers) being returned.
THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS • Reason for return.
FOR PURPOSE OR ANY OTHER KIND. ANY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED
ARE HEREBY DISCLAIMED AND EXCLUDED. THE COMPANY SHALL • If possible, supply the WAECO USA order or invoice number
NOT BE LIABLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES TO YACHTS, EQUIP- on which the product was shipped.
MENT OR OTHER PROPERTY OR PERSONS DUE TO ANY FAILURE OF
WAECO USA PRODUCTS. THIS WARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY PROVIDED 3. All returns must be sent post paid to:
IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES EITHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. WAECO USA, INC
Attention: Service Department
RMA#
8 Heritage Park Road
Clinton, CT 06413
* The RMA number MUST be printed on the exterior carton.
ALL PRODUCTS BEING RETURNED FOR CREDIT ARE SUBJECT TO A 15%

RESTOCKING FEE. ALL RMA numbers are valid for 30 days from issue
date.
WAECO USA, Inc.
P.O. Box #497
8 Heritage Park Road
Clinton, CT 06413
Tel. (860) 664-4911 • Fax. (860) 664-4912
www.waecousa.com

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Installation &

WAECO USA • Clinton, CT • www.waecousa.com

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Operation of System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Planning the Evaporator Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Electronic Module Protection System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Mounting the Evaporator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27–29

Water Cooled Optional Package/Installation . . . . . . . . . . .17 Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

This manual covers:

• Standard aluminum “bin” shaped evaporators

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT VENTILATION REQUIREMENTS

• Wrench, open end type, 13/16”

*Alternatively, two (2) adjustable wrenches, 10” size

IMPORTANT: The condensing unit must be mounted

Bulkhead Mounting Bracket

OPTIONAL BOX MODIFICATIONS AND COMBINATIONS

A large size evaporator system (VD-152 or VD-153) is best.

For side door refrigerators, a Spillover Fan Kit #C7210 is

Optional: Owner installed 2” foamcore

3” diameter adjustable opening in middle of

Large Refrigeration or Combination Box—9–15 cubic feet total

Side door refrigerator and top opening

SEPARATE REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER USING TWO (2) FREEZER:

Plan the installation to allow for minimum modification of

Fill space with

Male Couplings Female Couplings

COUPLING HALVES BEFORE CONNECTION

20% Connected 50% Connected

Final Sealing Area Final Sealing Area

COUPLINGS MUST BE IMMACULATELY CLEAN FINAL TIGHTENING

VertiCube™ Ice Cube Trays

FORMING & ATTACHING THE THERMOSTAT

This optional control has several advanced features,

Installing this control is fast and simple. When plan-

MOUNTING THE CONTROL HEAD

MOUNTING THE TEMPERATURE SENSING

CONNECT THE CONTROL HEAD

Route the service port coupling ends of the tube set

Before you connect the refrigerant couplings to the

These couplings are different from the couplings that join

WATER COOLED OPTION PACKAGE: How it works and why

To get absolutely top performance from your

Water Line Water Line

Preferred Arrangement Acceptable Arrangement

Base Vertical Discharge Base Horizontal Discharge

We strongly urge all boat owners to take advantage of the

For the charter yacht or tropics-based “serious cruiser”

Correct polarity is critical. If you connect in reverse, the system

(*) NOTE: The main fuse on the CM or SCM junction box is 15

• CALIBRATION (CAL) Factory calibrated to a certified standard.

If the system displays any unusual symptoms, runs continuous-

(*) NOTE: Do not operate the system longer than 10 minutes

For further assistance, please contact

LED BLINK SYMPTOM TEST / DIAGNOSIS CORRECTIVE

LED BLINK SYMPTOM TEST / DIAGNOSIS CORRECTIVE

LED BLINK SYMPTOM TEST / DIAGNOSIS CORRECTIVE

ALL PRODUCTS BEING RETURNED FOR CREDIT ARE SUBJECT TO A 15%

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