Basic weaves and their properties

Dr. Zuhaib
Ahmad
Department of Materials and Testing
National textile University,
 Learning Outcomes

At the end of this Module, you will be able to understand:

• Basic weaves

• Properties and applications

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 Introduction
oWeaving is the interlacement of warp and weft yarns at 90
degree
oWeave Design
oThe sequence of interlacement of two sets of yarns
(Warp and weft)
oStructure and
oAppearance
o Unlimited number of interlacement pattern (weave designs)
 Weave Design
oIn woven fabric’s, yarns interlacement is at 900
o Warp yarns/ends
o length wise through fabric
oWeft yarns/picks/filling
o width wise through fabric
oInterlacing order, depends
o Warp yarns through healed wires, DID
o Order of lifting the frames, Peg Plan
oWeave Repeat
o Minimum number of warp and weft needed to identify the
weave structure completely
Fig.1. Interlacing of warp and weft yarn Fig.2. Weave diagram and cross-sectional view in
in single layer plain woven fabric single layer plain woven fabric
Weave Diagram (Symbolic Representation)
o Weave Diagram
o Columns: Warp/ends
o Rows: Weft/picks
o Numbering
o Ends: from left to right
o Picks: from bottom to top
o 1 Square = 1 intersection of 1 end & 1 pick
o Intersection
o Warp over weft : square is filled or marked X
o Weft over warp : square is empty or marked .
 Drawing In
• Preparation of the sized warp beam to be placed on the
weaving machine (loom).
• Entering of the (new) warp yarns, when starting a new fabric
style, into the weaving elements of a loom i.e.

1. Drop wires
2. Heald/heddle wires
3. Reed

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Drawing in and Tying in by Dr. Zuhaib Ahmad, National Textile University,
Passage of yarn

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 Drawing In
• Manually, two persons
• One sorts the warp yarn
• Other draws it from the opposite side
• Can be done automatically.
Manual Drawing in

Automatic Drawing in machine

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Drawing in and Tying in by Dr. Zuhaib Ahmad, National Textile University,
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 Tying In (Knotting)
• Tying in of the new warp ends to the
depleted warp, when a new pattern is
not required.
• Ends of old warp beam are cut and
tied to the ends of new warp beam
correspondingly
• Warp ends are then pulled through the
heald wires, reed until knots are
cleared.
• Speed of knotting m/c is from 60 –
600 knots per minute.

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Drawing in and Tying in by Dr. Zuhaib Ahmad, National Textile University,
Tying In (Knotting)
 Basic Weave Designs

oPlain Weave
oTwill Weave
oSatin Weave

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Plain weave
 Plain weave derivatives

Warp Rib (regular/irregular):

Weft Rib (regular/irregular):

Matt Weave
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 Plain weave properties
• It has the maximum number of binding points
• The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down
• The thread density is limited
• Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.
• Maximum level of yarn crimp in structure due to 1/1 interlacement.
• It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple
combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze”or “cross weaving”.
• Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket,
canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.
 Twill weave
• Warp faced twill 3/1
• Weft faced twill 1/3
 Twill weave properties
• They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.
• More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
• Less binding points than plain cloth.
• More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.
Types
• Ordinary or continuous twills, S or Z
• Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
• Combination twills
• Broken twills
• Figured and other related twill weaves
Satin and sateen weaves

SAT ↑ N SATEEN
e/in>p/in p/in>e/in
 Satin/Sateen weave
A) is 4 end satin-irregular (with no fix pattern) and the design (B) is 5 end satin-regular
with a move no. of 3.

Stripe satin

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 Satin/Sateen weave properties
• Satin is a warp faced
• Sateen is a weft faced
• They are either warp or weft faced weaves.
• Have no prominent weave structures.
• Only one binding point in each end or pick.
• No continuous twill lines.
• Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility.
• More thread density is possible in warp and weft.
• More mass per unit area is possible.
• Have less binding points and more float lengths.
• Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves.
 S and Z Satin weaves
The S Satin
The Z Satin
• Why satin/seteen weaves are
preffered for jacquard
patterns?
 Face and back of woven fabric
In defining which is the face or back of woven fabric, it is mainly according to the type of
material, yarn count, arranging of yarn, dyeing and printing, weave pattern, finishing effect.
Typical for fabric surface (face) are:
– Smoother and lustrous.
– Soft handle.
– The face with solid jacquard pattern, pattern weave or printed design.
– In satin and twill weaves, warp float will be on face.
– In fancy weaves, the design may be clear on the front but not the back.
– Fabric with special effects, the effects usually appears on the face.
While in case of fabric back, knots and imperfections usually appear on the back.

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 Distinguish of Warp and Weft
Warp Yarns Weft Yarns
1. Run parallel to the selvedge. 1. Run perpendicular to the selvedge.
2. Usually thinner. 2. May be bulkier.
3. Usually stronger. 3. May be weaker.
4. Usually have more twist. 4. May have less twist.
5. In an unbalanced weave, are usually 5. In an unbalanced weave, are usually fewer
greater in number. in number.
6. Are usually straighter and more parallel 6. Fancy or special-function yarns are usually
than filling yarns. in the filling direction.
7. If both filament and staple yarns are used 7. If both filament and staple yarns are used
in one fabric, the filament yarns are in one fabric, the staple yarns are usually
usually the warp yarns. the filling yarns.
8. Usually Sized. 8. No sizing.
9. End spacing is more uniform. 9. Pick spacing is more irregular.
10. Higher tension. 10. Lower tension
11. Fabric crimp is usually less for warp yarn. 11. Fabric crimp is usually greater for filling
yarn.
 Woven structures for technical textiles
 Woven structures are the strongest among all textile structures (knitted, braided, felted) for
their higher yarn orientations resulting into higher modulus and strength.

1 Gpa = 1000 Mpa = 1000 N/mm2 = 10000bars

 Effect of crimp on strength of technical fabrics
 For fabrics used in technical textiles yarn crimp is of vital importance as it greatly effect
the mechanical properties
 Higher the crimp, lower will be the yarn orientation parallel to fabric and lower will be the
strength
 Hence w.r.t., strength UD > 4-end sateen > 1/1 plain weave
 Longer floats with less crimp% are softer and more friendly in resin absorbency

Sr # Tensile
UD > strength
(KN)
S1 (orthogonal) 2.75
4-end sateen >
S2 (crimpy) 2.03

1/1 plain

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S1. (3D orthogonal) S2. with-crimp
 Effect of yarn twist
 As the amount of twist increases, fiber orientation parallel to yarn axis decreases, decreasing the strength.
 Strength and modulus of Kevlar (1500 denier) suffers with twist per inch > 2.0
 Slight twist (TM 1.1) keeps filaments together reducing hairiness and yarn breakage during weaving hence
increasing strength to some extent.

Effect of twist on Kevlar yarn (1500 denier) 32

Filament Yarn Staple spun Yarn

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 2D woven structures for Technical
Textiles
High performance fibers like Carbon, Glass, Kevlar, are woven to form 2D
and 3D technical fabrics.

2D Woven Uni-directional 2D Woven 2D Woven

Carbon Fabric carbon woven Glass Fabric Kevlar Fabric
fabric
 The High Performance Fibres
(used in composite materials) vs Metals
Tensile strength Density
(Mpa) (g/cm3)
Carbon 4137 1.76 (>5 times stronger than steel)
Carbon T1000G 6370 1.8 (10 times stronger than steel)
Kevlar 3757 1.44 (7 times stronger than steel)
E glass 3450 2.57 (6 times stronger than steel)
S glass 4710 2.5
Dyneema, Spectra 2300-3500 0.97 (6 times stronger than steel)
Nylon 900 1.13
Spider silk 1000 1.3
Brass 550 8.73
Copper 220 8.92
Steel 400-550 7.8 (4.33 times heavier than carbon)
Steel, high strength alloy 760 7.8
Concrete 20-45 2.7
1MPa = 1 N/mm2 = 10 bar, 1bar = 14.7 psi
 Plain woven Anti-puncture Kevlar fabric
The force of 7.3kgf from a height of 60 inches bends the blade of a Russell boning
knife during the California Ice Pick Test, but fails to pierce the multi-threat body
 Huckaback weaves
• The huck a back weaves are basically
toweling fabrics.
• They are generally associated with
honey comb fabrics and hence known as
honeycomb effects.
• They are constructed by alternately
combining a floating with a plain
weave.
• Huck a back weaves are suitable for
producing thick and heavy textures.
Huckaback weaves
 Mock leno Weave
• Mock lenos produce effects that are similar in
appearance to the gauze or leno styles.
• These weaves are generally produced in
combination with a plain, twill, satin or other
simple weaves or even with brocade figuring, to
produce striped fabrics, which bear a very close
resemblance to true leno fabrics.
• Mock lenos find uses in canvas cloths, cheap
fabrics for window curtains, light dress
fabrics, blouses, aprons etc.
Mock-leno weave
 Recommended Books/Sources
1. Fabric structure and design by N. Gokarneshan, 2004, New
age international (p) limited, publishers
2. Hand book of weaving by Sabit Adanur, 1st (2000), CRC Press
3. Principles of Weaving by Marks and Robinson, 1st (1976), The
Textile Institute.
4. Woven Textile Structures by B.K. Behra and Hari, 1st (2010)
Woodhead publishing
Stay Safe and Healthy