Installation Guide BMW Supercharger Setup M5XSC14

Guide Last Updated 30th April 2016, Version 2.0

Hyde.r Motor Works

m52supercharged.wordpress.com
All Rights® To Any Reproduction & Usage of This Design is Reserved & Only by Permission.
Design Copyright ©2015 - 2016, Pattern Pending.
About: This design came into being as a project turned into an investment in order to serve as an cost efficient bolt on supercharger
modification to get more power out of the BMW M50/M52 Based Motors, We also have had prototypes for M3/S50/S52 based blocks as well
as Earlier BMW M40 Based 4 Cylinder variants. However these are our tried and tested final simplified version for universal public usage, it has
had nearly a hundred plus man hours involved in order to iron out any wrinkles and get it just right for production, The V1 currently serves as
my own setup on the E36 Chassis. As a way to get returns on my investment, I have decided to produce technical whiteprint drawings as well
as limited quantity of brackets of my design and make them available to the general public including BMW Enthusiasts & Owners in the country
and around the world for a small price, So anyone wishing to get more performance out of their motor can use these templates to construct a
similar setup at a great fraction of the cost of getting a professional kit or worse, having to start from ground up as I had to.

Making Universal Brackets was the hard part and this design in its own right serves as the core base from which you can do everything else
easily, You should be able to simply use the 1:1 live full-scale drawings provided in the whiteprints to cut out the said brackets from 5mm ~
10mm mild steel plates, V1 Requires some welding them together as a single piece and the V2 requires only to be cut and bolted with no welding
at all for a more nice tailored fit setup for the M50/M52/M54/S50/S52/S54 on various E46/E36/E34/Z3/E37/E38/E39 - Motor/Chassis
Combinations. You will of course be mostly left on your own to modify the two Manifolds on the SC14 as well as the rerouting of some the hoses
and pipes in your way as you see fit and required, eg. Vacuum Hoses, Intake & Upper Radiator Hoses etc. Details of all which including the
solutions and pictures are all provided in the DIY installation guide. Its required that you use the same Toyota Supercharger we are using. In
stock the Supercharger can produce just under 0.3.5 Bars(4.5) of Boost with its 113mm pulley, With the option of smaller OEM or Aftermarket
Pulleys to make more power. Finally, I also welcome buyers to use my design and modify it as deemed fit to make it work with Other M5X/S5X
line of engines and chassis combinations.

Terms of Usage: Upon being paid tribute, in good will I allow the buyer to have these live technical templates drawing copies of my design, and
permit them rights to full usage in order to help in the construction, reproduction of a single set of Mounting Brackets for the SC14
Supercharger to be installed on the supported motor of the holders liking, Under the terms that this technical drawing of my design may not be
resold, rented, borrowed to or lent for reuse, nor reproduced physically or digitally for such purposes without my permission. If you would like
to use it for more than a single motor/car, than please seek my permission and I will be more than happy to accommodate. However
understand that working on cars can be Hazardous, Please use my work at your own discretion, Fitment may vary on your car depending on
your skills, precision of the final engineering & welding work done, I imply no refunds, nor do I take any responsibility to assist in fitment or
cover any costs beyond that of basic correspondence through email or phone if possible, nor can I be held liable for unforeseen issues such as
but not limited to the damage of your or anyone else’s lives, health, car and property or one’s unlawful acts or that of others from its
production, application or usage in both private or public domain.

I am not affiliated with BMW, Toyota, Holden or any other brand, all mention, products & logos are registered trademarks of their official owners
Any Images and pictures in this guide taken from the internet public archives as google images are strictly for educational purposes, all rights to are of respective owners
 Index
Content Pages
About the SC14 Supercharger ............................................................................................................................................. 3
Pulley Options ...................................................................................................................................................................... 3
Boost Calculations .......................................................................................................................................................... 4 - 5
Pre Installation....................................................................................................................................................................... 6
Preventive Maintenance ....................................................................................................................................................... 6
Making Room......................................................................................................................................................................... 6
Supporting Mods .............................................................................................................................................................. 7 - 9
Parts List ....................................................................................................................................................................... 10 - 12
Installation ..................................................................................................................................................................... 13 - 14
Preparing the SC14 ............................................................................................................................................................. 13
Things to Remove .................................................................................................................................................... 13 - 14
Building the V1 Brackets ............................................................................................................................................... 15 -17
Tips ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 18
Building the V2 Brackets ............................................................................................................................................... 19-21
Quick Installation ...................................................................................................................................................... 22 - 26

SC14 Manifolds .................................................................................................................................................................... 27

Appendix ......................................................................................................................................................................... 28-35

Electric Fan Conversion Diagram ...................................................................................................................................... 28
Suggested Bypass Setup.................................................................................................................................................... 29
Suggested Setups(PCV, Belt Diagrams, Addons, Drill Bit Sizes Etc, ........................................................................ 30-34

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 About the SC14 Supercharger
This is compact heavy roots type positive displacement supercharger which can fit almost any car, it has the ability to spin both ways and still
make power, A nifty feature these chargers also incorporate is a magnetic clutch system that when wired to a switch lets you turn it on and
off when you desire, turn the supercharger on and off at will – akin to the Mad Max films, Some people wire it to the throttle position sensor,
only having it on at full throttle, some also delete the clutch system altogether. Originally Manufactured by Agura and more commonly known as
the Toyota SC14 supercharger, although less efficient than the Screw Type Eaton’s, the SC14 is still a very robust and inexpensive charger
which has displacement of around 1420cc which is relatively larger than the 1000cc Eaton M62 and more similar to Eaton M90’s(1470ccc)
which have nearly the same displacement. In stock the Supercharger can produce just under 5 PSI of Boost with its 125mm pulley with the
option of smaller OEM or Aftermarket Pulleys as those from Pulleybros or Custom machined to make more power.

Weight: 12kg Theoretical Discharge cc/rev 1160 - 1460

Displacement: 1420cc Maximum RPM Continuous) 11,000 - 10,000
Dimensions: 31cm long x 15cm wide x25.5cm tall Maximum RPM Instantaneous) 14,000 - 13,000
Max Safe Operation: 12000 rpm Maximum Pressure Ratio Continuous 1.8
Maximum Pressure Ratio instantaneous 2.0

NOTE: For proper installation you must ENSURE You Are Using The Same SC14 unit as we are, this unit is easily distinguished by its smaller 6
Rib Pulley with the Cross and Yellow Dipstick, From what I gather these are commonly found in Estima & Previa vans of the 90’s as well as the
Toyota Crowns as GS120, GS121, GS130 1988–1990 Toyota Mark II/Chaser/Cresta GX81 and Toyota Supra’s from 85-89 There are two variations
of the SC14 Supercharger, The one in the Previa is said to have tabs are bent a bit forwards as well as being slightly offset towards the pulley
side, mainly it’s mounting points and manifolds that vary across different Toyota cars, which overall is not a big deal, however please make
sure you have the right charger for the installation, if all fails you can however may be able to still use these brackets with some slight
modifications to ensure it sits just right.

Pulley Options
As rule of thumb, on superchargers, the smaller the pulley, the faster you spin the rotors and the more power you output.

A variety of pulleys are available for the SC14, The Stock Toyota ones include those from the Toyota Previa SC14 (115mm) are a straight bolt on,
as well as a 103mm Pulley from a Sanden TRS105-3207 AC Compressor found in the Holden VN V6 Commodore (~1995) which requires slight
modifications, users also have the option of getting even smaller bolt on swappable pulleys off the shelf in the aftermarket area for somewhat
higher boost, I would however recommend users with healthy M52/M50 Engines not to push beyond 7PSI on stock internals as the engines are
not capable of running more boost safely without a slight overhaul including but not limited to new ARP Head studs & a MLS Gasket to lower the
Compression Ratio.

• Stock Pulley 125mm

• Stock SC12 Pulley 120mm
• Stock Previa Pulley 113mm = 5PSI
• Holden VN Aircon Pulley 103mm = 5 -7PSI
• Toyota Corolla SCS AirCon Pulley 95mm = 7-10PSI

NOTE: If you are using the modified pulley from an early 90’s Holden VN V6 Commodore air conditioner, I have been told fords of that time also
use the same Sanden TRS105-3207 AC Compressor. Being an air con pulley, it’s a clutched pulley just like the SC14’s OEM pulley, however not
strong enough, The pulley itself needs slight modification as it’s not a direct fit, you will need a different size roller bearing (30x55x23) so it
slides over the sleeve of the SC14 and also the inner lip could use around 3 mm machined or grinded off for perfect fitment if your handy. We
instead recommend using the Toyota Corolla SCS Air Con Pulley which is about 93mm and a direct swap with little work involved only on
shaving some 3mm off the sc14 drive shaft rotor spline. Another Pulley is around 70mm from the RB20/RB25 Engine’s Alternator which is also
suppose to work. You can always use custom pulleys or those from various cars with a bit of work and right bearing just as long as the number
of ribs are the same or more.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Boost Calculations
For M52B28 Motor and SC14 Supercharger
The Golden Rule Being, As Engine Size Goes Up, Supercharger Boost Goes Down, So where the same setup will produce
10PSI on a small 1.6L 4 Cylinder M40, on a 2.8L 6 Cylinder M52 you will see much less!

Most Naturally Aspirated Engines have a Volumetric Efficiency of 70-75%. Here I will be showing the calculations for a
2800cc engine and the amount of boost expected from using SC14 with the 103mm Holden Pulley, I originally modified
and used this formula courtesy of the datsun1200 forum. You can use the below formulas to work out your own
numbers and values.

First we need to calculate:

How much air you engine needs to run.

Then how much air is needed to run at a set boost level
The volume of air the selected Supercharger makes.
What Boost Level you want to run.
The size of the PULLEY need to make that Boost level etc.

Calculating Engine Liters/min @ 0 Psi

Formula: Liters x RPM / 2 = Liter of Air/Min at 0 psi (N/A Motor)

Multiply engine capacity (in liters) times maximum engine Rpm.

2.8 liters x 7000 rpm = 19600 liters/minute.

Divide this figure by 2 as engine only fills every second stroke.

So,

19600 / 2 = 9800 liter of air/min
This is the engines air requirements as in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.

Calculating Boost Ratio

Add the boost pressure desired (5 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).

5 psi +14.7 psi = 19.7 psi

Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above
atmospheric pressure.

19.7 psi / 14.7 = 1.34
boost ratio for 5 PSI

Calculating Actual Air Requirements at Desired Boost

Multiply the boost ratio by the liters/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Liters/min for the
engine at that boost. In our example this is 9800 liters/min X 1.34 = 13132 liters/min
for 5 PSI boost.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know:-
1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.4 litres/rev)

2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)

3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. eg. Eaton M62 = 12 psi, Toyota SC14 = 10Psi(? Beyond
that Teflon on rotors melts?)

Calculating Supercharger Rotor Speed

Divide the desired air flow (13132L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.42 litres per
revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.

13132 / 1.42 = 9248
Rotor RPM Spin Rate to make 5 psi

Calculating Pulley Size Ratio

Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 2800cc @
5psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is

9248 / 7000 rpm = 1.32
Pulley Size Ratio

With an 4" (103mm) Pulley on the supercharger the size of the crank pulley for this ratio would be

1.32x 4 = 5.28”

Note: M52B28 Crankshaft Pulley is around 6” or 152mm, the SC14 differs between 113mm and 125mm)

Final Calculations

Pulley Size Ratio  6" (crank pulley) / 4" (SC14 pulley) = 1.5

Max SC14 RPM  1.5 (Pulley Size Ratio) x 7000 (Max Engine RPM) = 10500 RPM

Air output with 6" Crank Pulley  1.42(SC14 Displacement) x 10500(Max SC14 RPM) = 14910cc

Boost Ratio  14910 / 9800 = 1.52

Max PSI Boost  1.52 x 14.7 = 22.34 - 14.7 = 7.6 PSI at 7000RPM at 100% efficiency or 5.8 PSI at 75% efficiency -
using the 4” (103mm) Pulley.
Other Ratted Pulleys
15PSI at 100% Efficiency with 77mm 3” Pulley, 13854rpm moving 19673cc of air at 7000rpm, Or 12psi at 75% efficiency.
13.2PSI at 100% Efficiency with 82mm (3.22”) = 13200 RPM (pulley ratio 1.86) or ratted 10 PSI at 75% efficiency.
9.5-10PSI at 100% Efficiency with 93-95mm Toyota Aircon Pulley Spinning at 11500rpm or 7.5PSI at 75% efficiency.
5-6PSI at 100% Efficiency with stock 113mm SC14 Pulley or 4-5PSI at 75% efficiency.

Therefore expect anywhere from 70HP – 150HP gained at the crank depending on 1. Pulley size used, 2. Gearbox Type & Shift Points,
3. Expect more Increase if using accommodating modifications as M50 Intake Manifold, Cams, Exhaust Headers, LSD etc).
Check Appendix for information previously classified.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Pre Installation
I can not stress this enough when I say, please ensure your car is 100% before you even begin installation, Start off
with a good engine and car, ensure all seals, gaskets vice versa have been replaced or least aren’t leaking and that the
car runs well, with no vacuum leaks, engine or transmission issues, I would also suggest plugging in a code reader to
read any codes if there is any pre installation. When satisfied make sure you unplug the battery as you will see a few
days work and some minor welding to precision may be required for reinforced areas of the brackets which would
require the charger to be mounted on to the car, bolted on and aligned right with your other pulleys and belt as you
work on the rear and top bracket.

Preventive Maintenance

Although optional, if your car is in prime condition, As Preventive maintenance first I would suggest the bare minimal
you replace all the potentially leaky gaskets in your car as the Valvecover Gasket Set, Don’t forget the new O rings, Oil
Dipstick Orings, Oil filter Housing(If Leaky) etc. Clean your Injectors or Replace them with better ones if you are getting
a tune, Clean your MAF Sensor, ICV and use new spark plugs, and finally replace your Fuel Filter, Cam and Crankshaft
Position Sensors if they are still OEM, Its not required but you would hate it to be stuck on traffic or at the side of the
road if these two sensors failed.

Also Note, You may need to replace your Belt Tensioner, an Easy replacement that requires minimal effort and 30
mins of your time. Specially replace this part if it’s still the Factory Original, after two decades of use and wear it
will likely not be able to hold the belt tight and apply enough tension and hence cause belt slippage and boost loss. You
can pick either the Mechanical Spring Loaded or Hydraulic Tensioner. Consult your parts supplier or online for more
information on the one you require.

Before going into installation however I would have some suggestions as making room as well as some required &
recommended modifications that will help you get the most out of your setup, they are as follows:

Making Room
- Although the Supercharger should start to bolt right in place once you have the brackets in place or have them
constructed from the templates, there are a few little things you need to do behind where the charger will have its
boost piping going into your throttle body.

- If your car has ASCT near its Throttle Body, then you should delete it, look up the internet (google) for extensive
guides on how to do this.

- Also relocate your Charcoal Filter & EVAP to the rear using a small bracket, simply get some extra hose and brass
connectors and have it all tucked away like me in the fire wall.

- To make room for the Intake piping, you must remove your headlight adjuster and relocate your horns with additional
wiring to the front of the car near the sides of the AUX fan. I also have moded the brake duct to flow cold air into the
pod filter, similar to the M3.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Supporting Mods
M50 Intake Manifold (Optional)
If you are installing on a US S52 M3 or a M52 328i then would
suggest installing the larger M50 Manifold from a 325i in
conjunction to the Supercharger, There is a cheap kit available
from M50Manifold.com site which I used the first time I did the
swap, the kit is well made and includes all the hoses, new
gaskets, fuel rail adapters and fittings with instructions. The
M50 Manifold gives around 50% increased airflow to the
engine opposed to the stock M52B28 Manifold which is quite
restrictive, It also nets you some noticeable HP gains on a NA
motor over 3000RPM at the expense of losing a little torque under 2500 RPM, I personally Run a 3.64 LSD and cannot
notice a difference and with the Supercharger you will only benifit from having a better manifold.

NOTE: When you get a M50 manifold, make sure to get the manifold from the 2.5L 325i (M50B25 Engine) not the 2L
M50B20 one found in the 320i, as the later is smaller.

CCV/PCV Delete (Required)

The Factory CCV/PCV system found in newer OBD II cars as
323i/328i/528i/523i etc often goes bad in these cars, many people like to
delete it and if you are running any kind of boost its required you don’t have
the crank case cover vent line no longer connected to it as the BMW CCV Filter
will fail to cope with added boost positive pressure from the boost and allow it
to be pushed air and pressurize your crank case cover, causing all kinds of
problems and leaks. I would highly recommend that you delete it entirely, very simple to do so If running the M50
manifold kit, You simply cut the vacuum hose in a way so the CCV is not included in the loop, and simply block the line
coming its way or re route it using fittings to a U shape so only the ICV and Manifold are connected.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
Crankcase Venting (Required)
As for venting the Crankcase, you can simply vent the gases into the
atmosphere or have the line connecting to the intake of the
supercharger blocking the line coming out of the dipstick; or better yet,
you can add a cheap ebay oil catch can, The crank case cover vent line
goes into one barb while you can either have a line coming from the oil
dipstick or the intake into the other barb, this will however require you
drain the can every few months. I however took a slightly different
approach and have it set up in a modified oil catch can, the bottom hole
has a fitting that connects it to the oil dipstick, the top simply has a tiny
filter to vent out the fumes, this way we dont need to drain the oil.

M52 Oil Filter Housing (Optional) - V1 Only

Most M52 Motors come from factory with this Plastic Cap Oil
Filter Housing, This Housing has 2 Threaded Bolt Holes, the front
one of which our Top Bracket Tensioner Pulley will need to bolts on
to. If you are installing this kit on a M50/S50 Type motor that has
the older metal oil filter cap and doesn’t have the 2 mounting points,
then you have to either swap it with the M52 Oil Filter Housing or
reengineer a mounting point for the bolt you see below.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
IAT Sensor (Optional)
If you haven’t changed your intake manifolds then it’s not required.

But If you are using the M50 manifold on your M52 motor, then you will
need to use the OBD2 IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensor found on the M52
Manifold, often people put it in the piping close to the Throttle Body, I have
myself used it like that where the green o ring is taken out and the sensor is
jammed into a little drilled hole in the rubber elbow that has the the ICV inlet hose
and connects to the MAF. However when boosting I would recommend you take
out the existing sensor in the M50 manifold and then use your M52 sensor shave off some plastic off the extra push
clip bit as seen on the picture to the right and then begin to Die & Tap some threads into it so it fits right in place of the
existing M50 IAT sensor’s threaded hole, once satisfied use some silicone before screwing it in. But as said earlier, If

you are using the stock M52 Manifold, then no need to bother here.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Parts List
Here I will try to help you gather an idea of the parts you will need and where to get them so you don’t end up wasting
too much money or time, Once you have the Supercharger mounted and positioned properly, these can be merely an
hour or twos work at best if you have all the parts around,

NOTE to V2 Design Users: On top of all the parts below, Buy 5mm longer bolts of the same threads as used for the
power steering pump bracket. Also get 1x 5mm longer bolt for the tensioner top bolt. This is due to making up in thread
where spacing was caused, Finally also add to your list, 2x long bolts to bolt on the SC14 Supercharger itself, The bolts
should go through and reach up to both Top & Bottom rear mounting holes on the supercharger.

Belt
Firstly, I suggest GATES Green Striped Belts; I have tried Optibelts, Bando, Dayco etc as well which are okay too.
Secondly, The size of the belt depends on your pulley size & belt orientation, So please measure your pulley first.

NOTE: Please refer to the appendix for the 2 different types of Belt Orientation for both brackets.

V1 Belt Orientation
(No Secondary Wrap Pulley between the alternator and the Supercharger)

Pulley Size Belt Size

113mm Pulley (Stock) 6PK2260
103mm Pulley 6PK2250
93mm Pulley 6PK2240
65mm Pulley 6PK2210/2215

As you can see, As you change pulleys you will need to get shorter belts, Go 10mm up or down for every 10mm smaller
pulley. .

V2 Belt Orientation
(Secondary Wrap Pulley is added to between alternator and the Supercharger for both designs)

Pulley Size Belt Size

113mm Pulley (Stock) 6PK2315
103mm Pulley 6PK2305
93mm Pulley 6PK2295
65mm Pulley 6PK2265 /2270

As you see in both cases of using add on the incorporation of the V2 belt wrap pulley near the supercharger has
caused the belt sizes to increase by an estimate 55mm or so.

Remember different belt manufacturers will have the same size belt but slightly shorter or longer. Therefore
keep the above Belt Charts not as close to what you would need if not an absolute spot on,

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Parts List
Idler Pulley
Although you can pretty much use any pulley you like and seem feasible, I
recommend to use nice little BMW Idler Pulley to go on either the V1 or V2 Design
Templates to apply more tension and wrap to the Belt, it simply bolts on after you
have constructed the brackets. These are available pretty much everywhere from
a few dollars from smaller suppliers and wreckers to big stores in abundant.
Remember It’s the straight bolt through and not offset Pulley’s.

BMW Part number 11281748131.

Get 2 of these if you want to use the newer V2 Belt Orientation that also has a idler pulley in the bottom as shown in the
appendix.

325I Radiator Upper Hose

Grab an upper hose from a 325i Radiator, you will be using this as your new radiator hose due to the Pulley & Belts
being in the way of reusing the old one, you will need to either modify this or even try the old one, both will work. As
seen below. We are using a Joiner to join both ends, and added a temp sensor adapter for our electric fan conversion.
Basically below is the shape you are aiming form which can be attained by cutting close to the bend coming from the
radiator, then turning up side down the long piece of pipe to give you the correct angle.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Parts List
Pipes, Silicone Hoses & Hose Clamps
Most commonly I found myself using 76mm/3” Inner Diameter for Pipes & Silicone Hoses, I bought them online from a
trademe store,

Buy yourself some straight and 2 U bend piping, Also Grab some silicone hose joiners as well 1 45 Degree & 2 90
Degree silicone elbows.

Our piping was quite simple at last, the one that goes towards the Throttle Body had a ½” barb welded on it for the Idle
Control Valve Pipe, That’s the only position it should be in, since if you did put it in the intake of the supercharger you
would have a bypass for boost therefore making the setup redundant.

Most of the minor fittings and smaller hoses for vacuum etc can be found in your nearest plumbing stores as well as
auto stores, here I bought a lot of stuff from Partsmaster, Arnold Franks and Super Cheap Auto.

Its recommended you use good quality regular hose clamps throughout, the fancy T Bolt types look nice but can be a
PIA and leak if not done right, I wasn’t able to put a single one of them to good use till later in my build.

1x 3” Inlet POD Filter

Thread Tape & Black Gasket Maker
12x 4"/ Big Hose Clamps
1x 90 Degree 3" L Bend Silicone Hose
1x 45 Degree 3" Silicone Hose
1x Straight 3" Silicone Hose (Just Incase!)
2x U Bend Intercooler Piping
2x Foot Straight Intercooler Piping (Just Incase)
8x 16mm Bolts (Only need 6 but always keep extras, Blower needs 4 to mount, and Rear Bracket also uses 2 Bolts)
2x 12 mm Bolts (You need only one to secure the top bracket to the Oil Filter Housing)
2 Meter of 19mm Hose (Fuel/Nitrate/Oil Rated)
2 Meter of 10mm Hose
2 Meter of 5mm Hose (For Vacuum)
20x Lot of Smaller Hose Clamps
Zip Ties (Use them for the smaller vacuum lines)

½” Joiners, 1/4” Joiners, 1” Joiners, Elbows, Reducer Buy Brass Ones, - You’ll need these for rerouting vacuumed pipes & venting the
CCV etc, Make sure they are BRASS not Plastic, Plastic will can easily melt or deform over time.

5x Meters of Automotive Electrical Wire (10 – 15 Amp is enough), You need to solder and extend the MAF, IAT, Charcoil Canister
Connectors, And also need to connect the Supercharger’s Clutch to a power source(either switched or what you like, some people
like to hook it so it comes on WOT I had mine hooked to the Fog Lights.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Parts List
Optional:
1x Oil Catch Can With Filter, I am using a Cheap Can to vent the Crank Case to and have the oil drained back to the
motor while the fumes are vented into the atmosphere, Simple and does the job.

1x 22mm 180 Degree Silicone Hose Elbow for the ICV to Manifold piping, cost me $17 Shipped from Trademe.

1x BOV, I am using this because I had one laying around, its modified into the SC14 Boost Pipe and using a 9PSI spring,
Under 5PSI your pipes will just expand a bit..

6x Larger Injectors, I bought some 36lb ones from somebody in the forum for less then $150 shipped. This is only if you
are making more power using a smaller pulley and if your tuner suggests you to, the Pink Top M52 Injectors are Rated
21lb and shown to work well under 5PSI.

1x 16” Electrical Fan to replace the Mechanical One (Easy to wire this too, I will show you how to automate it later in the
guide)

1x Water Temp Adapter

1x Adjustable Water Temp Switch and Gauge (I am using a cheap Veethree Gauge that both reads the Water temp ad can
be uses as a Switch to close a circuit, ideal for the Fan)

1x Boost Gauge (I am currently using a Turbosmart Gauge)

Tools Side: BMW Fan Removal Tool, (or just jam a thick screw driver to lock the water pump nuts and undo the fan
with a 32mm spanner, clock wise will remove it. Some Short and Really Long Screw Drivers to get into hard to reach
places, See all this all depends how much work you want to do these will be mostly basic tools like a Good Complete
Socket Set with spanners and smaller pieces & extensions, Jack and Jackstands as you will lift the front of the car and
go underneath a few times to undo bolts to the power steering pump) and check fitment and do the rear bolts.
Electrical Tape, Heat shrink, Soldering Iron for your wiring, A Drill with step flute bits and an Angle Grinder with cut off
wheels also helps but I guess you can take care of all that on your own, Specially when having the SC14 Manifolds cut to
size and welded to the shape you want.

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 Installation
Preparing the SC14
Give the Blower a good clean; check how it spins and if there are any bearing issues. On the bottom of the SC14 there is
a Drain Bolt, use it to drain out the old oil, and refill it, We use Synthetic Transmission Fluid, Seems to work out just as
fine and much cheaper than the overpriced Toyota oils which are quite expensive, can also use Dextron III. The SC14
takes around 180ml to do a dry fill up, don’t under or over fill it, pre measure then fill from its oil level dipstick hole.

Things to Remove
Begin by Jacking the Car up and removing the following. If at any time you have any confusion to how, what where
about something just google it, you will find a lof of DIY Guides on Pelican Parts Website as well as all over the internet
including great DIY videos on Youtube on how to do the below removals. Also keep the bolts and screws in a container
so you don’t lose anything

Intake Piping - From the Throttle Body. They are connected using hose clamps

Stock Airbox & MAF Sensor – Airbox is usually held on by two bolts and some clips, Also take and put the MAf Sensor
in a secure place, spray it with some electronic parts cleaner as well while its out and remember its orientation when
reinstalling, the Arrow points towards the Engine.

The Bumper – Remove the Bumper Trims, now you will have 4x 13 mm nuts, now look under the front wheel wheel
wells, you will see a screw on each side that holds the bumper, assuming your wheel well plastics are still in one piece.
Now double check for any other screws or bolts underneath, you should be able to just slide the bumper off, but be
careful as you have to disconnect the 2 fog light connectors as well as the 2 Temp sensors on each air duct, so it helps
to have the car jacked up now.

The Radiator(Optional) – It’s not really needed, specially with the V2 Setup, However if you must then read on. Most
people make this harder than it really is, First thing you do is remove the 4x 8mm bolts/screws that fasten the
transmission cooler (automatics) to the radiator, there are two on top two on bottom, you will see them when you
remove the top shroud and the bottom one, once done let it rest somewhere or zip tie it to a hole, Now removing the
radiator is a simple task, Radiator has 3 hoses, 2 of which are in the front and one that connects the radiator coolant
bottle to a pipe in the rear under your throttle body on the side of the engine, you will need a long flat head screw
driver to get to this, and once hoses are removed you remove the 2 plastic retaining clips on top using a flat head
screw driver and the whole radiator pulls up and out with all pipes. Leave it aside somewhere inside your garage or
workspace. And be sure to bleed the system once you are done installing the radiator back at the final stages, if you
don’t bleed propery you will leave many air pockets which will end up causing your engine to overheat, And use Type A
Coolant Premix.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
Engine Lift Top Bracket – You will need to remove the Vanos/Engine Top Head Bolt as well as the Thermostat bolt
underneath, This step is again optional on the V2 setup depending on bracket used

Power Steering Reservoir- It’s held on by 2 bolts on to the engine mount or the Oil Filter (depending on the model of
engine & year of the car), rear part of the V1 bracket will go below it. If you are using the V2 Designs this may not be
needed.

Power Steering Pump Pulley – There are 3 Bolts holding it on place, undo them, and leave the pully to soak on some
WD40 or other penetrating spray oil, then take the pulley out,

AC & Serpentine Belt – I Suggest you Take out the Power Steering Pulley Bolts before you remove the belt, First take
out the Power steering belt and then the Serpentine one, its got a Hydraulic tensioner with a locking mechanism where
you can use a Allen key to jam it. There are some good guides online how to remove both,

Power Steering Pump & Bracket – This is the final part, there are Five bolts in total and this is what our main front
bracket will replace(Both V1 & V2), Keep a track of the bolts, sizes vary. Once its out, use cable/zip ties to secure the
pump so that all the weight or pressure is not on the hoses, Now may also be a good time to replace those Leakey
hoses!

Done.

Now if you bought the brackets premade from me, If they are V1, Then you only need to
minor welding of the Bottom Main Bracket to the Bottom Rear Main Brackets found in Fig
2 & 4. And for V2 there is nothing else to do, but bolt things back on with the bracket
installed.

Or if you have bought the Whiteprint Technical Drawings from me, then you will first have
to make the Brackets and all this removal process would be required for you to test fit it
as you go till you come with the final product.

In either case, consult the guide below as well as the technical diagrams.

REMEMBER, You have to BE PRECICE when building the brackets, I have done my best to provide you with the DIY Guide,
a List of Parts & The Whiteprints, however it’s easy to be off by a few mm, and final fittings may vary depending on
your welding skills, You will likely have to put the Supercharger in and out quite a few times to get the rear main
brackets done right, Good news for you is this design was left to be easy for newbies as the front main bracket is a
solid piece which replaces the Power steering Pump Bracket, therefore unified and in line with the whole engine, So
please take your time, measure twice and cut/weld once, use a scale/straight builders rod to see the SC14 pulley is in
line with the other pulleys in the engine

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 Building V1 Brackets
These are the Original Bracket System used between 2011 and after many local
fittings it was refined to its current state for production in mid 2015 and for public
usage in late 2015. This System Required some welding, While the V2 System(few
pages below) is more streamlined and requires no welding and only to be cut out
from thick plates. This V1 was however a very rigged and strong setup, designed
specially with the M52/M54 Motors in mind in racing condtions. But due to the
technical difficulties of the average user to have them made and required welding
done, and to for non M52 users to port it to all other 6 Cyl platforms this design
remained somewhat limited.

V1 Main Top Bracket

Refer to your Whiteprints or Physical Brackets for more in-depth idea how its all put together with descriptions.

Connects to Vanos Bolt FIG 5 A & 5 B Oil Filter Housing Bolt FIG 7 Top Front Bracket to SC14 FIG 8

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Alignment & Welding

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 Main Bottom Bracket
The Bottom Brackets are simple enough, Here we will just show you how and where it mounts. The Main Bottom Bracket FIG 1
replaces your whole power steering pump bracket and ensures the whole setup is straight and aligned when you mount the SC14,
however this is only 1 mounting hole, and you have a few more to go, this is just the starting point and a good one at that however
it will not be enough to keep you from messing up if you are not careful, use good skill and craftsmanship, ensure to be precise
and follow the guide and whiteprints properly to construct it.

Bottom Main Bracket from Power Steering Pump FIG 1 Bottom Rear Secondary Main Bracket FIG 4

Rear Bottom Bracket A. Sits Between Power steering Fluid Reservoir and Engine Mount, and Bolts on to Bottom Bracket B

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 Tips for Building the V1 Brackets
Carefully read and re read these tips, and have the white prints next to you so you can digest what goes where.

- If you are making the brackets, use 5mm – 6mm mild steel panel steel, We used a Oxygen Acetylene Torch, it melts
steel like butter and have them cut within minutes. You may want to use some more traditional tools as angle grinders
so and so. How you cut it is completely up to you,

- Draw out the Bottom Main Bracket FIG 1 first and cut it, now proceed with cutting the other Bottom Rear Brackets FIG
2, 3 & 4. Remember on Bottom FIG 3 there is a Overlap meaning a small second plate under it is welded so it can be
bolted on and off the car easily using two bolts on the Bottom Rear C Bracket which itself bolts to the Engine mount
where the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir would go (now it goes on top of that). Refer to the whiteprint drawings for
more details.

- Now once the Bottom Brackets FIG 2 & 3 are made you can dry fit the SC14, mount the Bottom Main Bracket to where
the Power Steering Pump’s Bracket connected the Pump to the Engine. The Bottom Main Bracket now acts as the
Bracket for the Power Steering Pump as well as your SC14.

- Bolt on the Bottom Rear Bracket FIG 2 to the Rear Bottom Bracket FIG 3 bracket with the over lapping, Now decide
where you want to weld it to, remember PRECISION, also Remember you need to weld the Secondary Main Rear Bracket
FIG 4 Piece so its in line with the SC14 mounting points. Once you have solved the Mounting system for the bottom you
can start work on the Top.

- The Top is much easier, What you do is use a Thick Angle Piece and trace the shape of the curves in FIG 5A & 5B and
what no in it and cut it off So it’s the right size and straight from the Vanos bolt mounting point. Phase 1 of the top is
complete,

- Phase two involves you use 2 Pieces of 25mm Angles (same as top brackets) and weld them together to form the
50mm wide square as shown in the diagram on FIG 7. This is 150mmx50mm Tensioner Pulley Bracket that will house
your BMW Tensioner pulley; You weld its top 25mm at the very end of the FIG 5A with around 5mm X 50mm cut out, as
seen in the white print diagrams and alignment and welding chapter above. Now as you can see your Brackets are
taking shape, Good work.. Now there is just 3 more parts left, One is the pulley itself which is mounted approx. 100mm
downwards of the FIG 7 Bracket, Then there is the FIG 9 Corner that will mount to your Oil Filter Housing Threated Bolt
holes, this welds to the very bottom of the whole Tensioner Pulley Bracket And finally the other is FIG 8 that will bolt the
SC14 and mounts as seen in the diagrams and pictures above on the rear of the Tensioner Pulley bracket.

NOTE: Again, before you weld the brackets, specially the Top and Bottom Rear Ones, Stop and double check every of the
way and ensure you have the SC14 pulley aligned and positioned just right, the last thing you want is not being precise
and causing your belt to slip off or not mount properly at all. So double check, triple check if needed. Once happy, cut
and weld. .

Now throw in a belt and dry fit it to see how it sits.

This should conclude our chapter of mounting the SC14 to the M5x Motors using V1 Brackets.

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 Building V2 Brackets
About:
The V2 or Version 2 of the Bracket System was thought out and developed with the simplicity & cost of production in
mind, Originally thought of as a system for the M50TU, M50NV, S50 & S52 in early 2016; The V2 incorporates all the
good sides of the V1 and Simplifies the rest all into a Single Thick Plate Design With no welding required,

The Design utilizes the Power Steering Mount (same as V1) but
extends itself towards the engine itself, as it bolts on to the
Tensioner upper bolt, it uses adapter plates and spacer plates to
allow full movement of other components,

This design is it can also be used in conjunction to the V1 Designs

eliminating the need for the rather complex TOP Plate. The V2 is
also capable to incorporate the bottom Alternator Bolt but it was
left out simply due to keeping things minimalistic,

Perhaps the best part of this V2 design is its universal Top Bracket Reinforcement & Mounting, While the V1 requires
many modifications to be made to the top bracket, the V2 however incorporates cleaver thick plate spacer adapter
depending on your motor, For M50NV this adapter is very thin at around 5mm, While for S52/M52/M54/M50TU the
same adapter becomes very thick up to 20mm, It comes with 2 Bracket Designs, Allowing it to be the truly universal
bracket between all BMW M5X Line of Motors.

V2 Main Bracket
Making this bracket is very simple. Firstly it comes in 3 Main Parts, The Main
Bracket itself (FIG 1), The Side Support Bracket (FIG2) and the Top Adapter Plate
(FIG 3). Then it uses some spacers to space out the pulleys. This whole setup
could be cut out of thick metal plates of required sizes. Also optional is the Top
Support Brackets, Which we will go into a bit later.

The Main Bracket Plate Replaces the Power Steering Pump Bracket in all BMW
M5X/S5X line of motors. For best results, It’s Highly Recommended to be made
from a 10mm Thick Mild Steel Plate and secondly all 5 Power Steering Bolts
are upgraded to Bolts 5mm Longer to reflect the space in between.

Note: 5mm is the absolute minimum this bracket should be made out of and may
cause bracket flex in racing conditions. For every mm user choses to decrease
from recommended thickness, Top Spacer Mount Plate will increase by a mm,
and secondly the bolts will decrease by a mm.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 V2 Side Support Under Plate
This is used in conjunction with the Main Bracket, It bolts
behind the Main bracket using some 6x M6 Bolts, either
Hex Head or Allen Head. This Under plate serves to fill in
the some 5mm Gap left between the Main V2 Bracket and
the Tensioner Bolt Hole, The Tensioner Bolt should be
Upgraded to 5mm Longer bolt to reflect the add-on 5mm
extra in space,

This must be made out of 5mm Thick Steel to allow full

movement of the mechanical belt tensioner, and
although you can use nuts, its recommended you Die &
Tap Threads onto the Main Bracket for the bolts.

V2 Circular Spacer
This is merely a circular spacer serving as the pulley standoff for a streamlined look, This
Goes in FIG 4A/4B/4C to allow more belt wrap and tension. You can buy Standoff’s from
Ebay or Local Parts & Auto Stores as Spacer washers, Hood Spacers, Glass Fixture
Suppliers or even simply have it cut from the same thick metal plates. This must be 20mm
High and 30mm Diameter if using 10mm steel plate.

For example have a look at the spacer on the right, in

between the pulley and a plate, It was cut out of a Steel
Beam/Pole and had a 10mm Hole Drilled through to be used
as a Spacer.

Also recommended to use BMW Idler Pulley that is straight bolt through and not
offset Pulley’s BMW Part number 11281748131.

V2 Top Spacer Mount Plate

Top Spacer Mount Plate, This sits on Top, and is used as the spacing in between the Main Bracket Plate & The Top Reinforcing
Mount Plate. The Thickness will vary depending on your Engine, Bracket Design A or B and finally the mounting point used.

Note: Thickness can vary either between 20mm, 15mm or 5mm, All Depending on the Motor as well as if using Bracket A or B,

When Using Top Bracket A, the mounting remains the same, only the thickness of the Top Bracket Adapter Plate
Changes in Thickness. The Non Vanos M50NV the Spacer will be 5mm thick on top of a 10mm thick adapter plate, and
the bracket itself will simply bolt on to the stud coming out of the block head, as shown in the far left above. While on
the M52/M50NV/S52/M54, when using the Top Plate, the Adapter Plates Thickness will increase some 20mm for it to
bolt on to the same location, just more forward.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 V2 Top Support Brackets
To make this setup universal I have included 2 Bracket Systems to choose from depending on your engine. Its use is not
mandatory but is there to help. You will have to use either Bracket A or Bracket B. I personally prefer Bracket A which
mounts to the Engine Head Stud/Bolt. While Bracket B, Uses the Engine Hook Eye. In either case Both should always
be cut from 5mm thick plates.

Bracket A
Bolts directly to the Vanos/Engine Block front bolt/stud location, (Refer to the guide & pictures), This is the
Recommended Bracket for all M50TU/M52/M52TU/M54/S52US, Top Adapter Spacer of 20mm thickness may be
Required For Those Motors Above.

Picture Below should show you where Bracket A Mounts.

Bracket B
Bolts directly to the engine hook, unlike Bracket A which relies on the Vanos/Engine Block front bolt/stud pattern, This
is the Recommended Bracket for only the S50 Euro M3

Bracket B sits in front the engine hook eye, not behind, and It can also be used in place of Bracket A or in conjunction
with Bracket A. Bracket B was made slightly more curved to allow it to be extended at a descending angle for S50
Euro M3 Motors left up to the users desire and choice to lengthen or shorten it as required.,

This Bracket on its stock form it can be used on the M50NV/M50TU/M52/M54/S52/S54.

Picture below is to give you an rough idea where Top Bracket A and Top Bracket B Mount

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 V2 Quick Installation
Although Installation differs slightly in between the 2 designs, they are quite similar, First the basics of course covered
earlier, A quick run down would be as the following, you will find plenty of guides online or on the manual on how to do
these simple tasks.

Part 1
1. Remove the Top Radiator Hose, Make sure the car is cool and be ready to mop up,
2. Remove the Engine Mechanical Fan
3. Undo the 3 Power Steering Pump’s Pulley Bolts.
(You can put a small screw driver between the pulley & belt to prevent the pulley from moving while you undo the bolts.)
4. Remove the AC Belt and Then the Serpentine Belt.
5. Remove the 3 Bolts on the Power Steering Pulley and then remove that to get to the Power Steering Pump Bolts,
6. Undo the 5 Power Steering Pump Bracket Bolts, They are 13mm and the other 3 are Torx, About T45 – T50.
7. Remove the plate itself that holds the pump to the engine,
8. Next undo the Alternator Tensioner Pulley/ Alternator Wrap Pulley Bolt
(If your car has it, just leave it lose all the way, no need to take it out really)
9. Remove the Belt Tensioner Top Bolt. (The Belt tensioner is held on by 2 Bolts, 1x Top & 1x Bottom)

Part 2
10. Now Prepare the V2 Main Bracket By Bolting the Side Support Bracket to it using the 6 Bolts.
11. You can now either Leave the SC14 inside the empty space or slide it in after bolting on the bracket.
12. Slide the V2 Plate, have it sit properly & Bolt back & install the power steering pump assembly back.
13. Bolt the Side Support Bracket that extends to the Tensioner Bolt Mount.
14. Determine the Top Bracket(A or B) you want to use and undo the Engine Hook if needed.
15. Install the Top Adapter Spacer Plate using the 2x 6mm bolts.

Part 3
16. Now Bolt on the Supercharger itself,
-Assuming you have done all the pipe work as shown in the chapter below about building the SC Manifolds, if not now is a good idea to resolve
them and when bolting the manifolds back, use proper gasket maker and ensure its not leaking,
- You’ll need to hold it up right with your right hand from underneath till the long Bolts slide in)

17. Install the Idler Pulleys using the Standoffs in the pre-determined spots in the template.

18. Install the Top Support Bracket and the 2 Top bots to the adapter plate,
(one is for the Plate & Bracket & one is for the super charger)

19. Finally Remove Your Bumper & Do the Intake Piping & MAF Installation.

20. Reinstall the Power steering pulley, correct belt (according to pulley & number of wrap idlers used, any remaining
bolts such as Waterpump/TStat Housing that’s required to be removed for the removal of the engine hook, you may
have found that adding the mechanical fan has become impossible, This is why I suggested adding a electric fan earlier
as well as left a small setup in the appendix; put back your radiator hoses, refill and bleed the system properly before
usage(plenty of guides and videos online how to properly bleed these cars out of air in the cooling system). Now you
can sort out the rest of your boost piping, bypass valves/bov/bpv, etc.

That should conclude the quick installation guide for the V2 Design. Once you get into it, you will see it to be much
simpler then you think, next page has some pictures to give you a more of an idea.
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 V2 Install Pictures

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 SC14 Manifolds
There is not really much to be said or done here, You will do a bit of fitting and cutting of the SC14 manifolds and using
your intercooler piping and the U bends to weld and get any shape and angle you like, I had solid pipes made out, you
can also use the stock type intake boot and silicone hoses, Here’s a look at the pictures.

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 Appendix
As the project is further developed the appendix will be used for us to continue adding additional Information, DIY’s and
Modifications that come with running this setup.

HMW Electric Fan Conversion

Due to being small on room, I had converted to an 16” Electric Fan, Its quite straight forward, Used existing Holes in the
top and bottom of the radiator, I simply had to cut up two 3” Panels from 1mm panel steel and the fan was bolted on.
You can use the diagram below as well as the images to give you a short idea, a comprehensive DIY on the subject is
yet to be written. (Note the Water Temp Switch is optional, in its place you can have a switch or just ground.

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 Suggested Setups

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 HMW M52 Prototype
20 PSI M5XSC14 Setup Status: De Classified for public usage on 13th April, 2016

Caution: For educational purposes only, This was just a R&D prototype, a blower with slight modifications to undergo
testing phase to see what these in new out of the box could put out and how much the motor could hold. However for
normal circumstances, driving a 2 decade old used & abused Ogura TX15 / Toyota SC14 supercharger from its
12,000RPM safe limit to over nearly 17,000 RPM for extended periods of time will decrease its efficiency levels as well
as increase Heat & Lobes Wear which may lead to Blower or Engine Damage.

DIRECT PORT WATER INJECTION THROUGH THE SUPERCHARGER INTAKE IS HIGHLY RECCOMENDED

Information provided here reflects setups from the HMW M52 Prototype, Not Recommended for the user, Use at own risk.

Requirements Calculations

65MM Supercharger Pulley Pulley Size Ratio  6" (Crank pulley) / 2.55" (SC14 pulley) = 2.35
Stock Crank Pulley Max SC14 RPM  2.23 (Pulley Size Ratio) x 7000 (Max Engine RPM) = 16450RPM
New Belt Tensioner Air output with 6" Crank Pulley  1.42(SC14 Displacement) x 10500(Max SC14 RPM) = 2359cc
New Belt 6PK2210/2115 Boost Ratio  (Max SC Rpm =) 23359 / 9800 = 2.38
Water Injection
Max PSI Boost  2.38 x 14.7 = 34.986 PSI or 35 PSI – 14.7 = 20 psi at 7000RPM @ 100% Efficiency,

Or, 15 psi at 75% efficiency

Or, 13 psi at 65% efficiency
Or, 12 psi at 60% efficiency
Or, 11 psi at 55% efficiency

* Resulting in 100% - 140% Increase over stock motor power output.

* NA 325i and 328i manuals rated 142kw(192hp) at the motor, and 112rwkw.
* 328i’s w/M50 Manifold make around 130rwkw,in NZ Dynos.
* In addition to the BOV/BPV referenced in Setup V006, A Wastegate, may be used to control boost level with high output pulley.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 HMW ICV SETUP & PCV BYPASS
Basically the ICV Is Directly Connected to the Manifold, Using either a single piece of 180 Degree Silicone Pipe around
22mm or using multiple brass joiners and connectors, And left secure in its original mounting place. Its Recommended
to use JB Weld on Connector that clips into the manifold as it will see a lot of heat and boost pressure will cause it to
pop out, Hence JB Weld is a Commonly used in this case by most people who Boost these cars with this particular
manifold. The Picture below should be quite self-explanatory.

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 Drive Belt Orientation
Below are the 2 possible Drive Belt Orientations, The first is the original design which however when using smaller then the stock
SC14 pulley, increase the chance of slow and gradual slippage in higher RPM’s. The V2 design addresses this by incorporating an
additional bottom pulley to apply more wrap and tension; it’s a separate small modular bolt on piece to the original system.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
 V1 Second Pulley Wrap – Add on Plate
This is likely the final add on to the V1 Design, This adds a secondary pulley to help reduce belt slip, and to aid in more
pulley wrap, this aiding in more transmission of power and slightly more boost, this was made specially with the
smaller pulleys in mind. Please Note, I recommend you change your old BMW Belt Tensioner with a new one, likely it is
still the one that rolled out of the factory 2 decades ago and has lost much of its belt tensioning abilities.

On the Next Page is the plate itself with the second bolt hole for the main bottom bracket V1
only. You can print it to scale and it will fit your needs perfectly fine should you wish to use it
for the V1 Setup.

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HYDER MOTOR W ORKS SC14 W HITEPRINTS DIY GUIDE-VERSION 1.4
Note: V1 users only. If you have trouble printing this one below to size.
There is a Full Size Copy of this is available in my Blog’s Download Page.

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Included here is a small list of the Drill Bits Used throughout both the bracket systems.

Drill Bit Sizes for Bolt Holes

Power Steering Bolts – 5/16” Drill Bit

Supercharger Bolt Mounting - 13/32” Drill Bit

Pulley Mounting – 13/32” Drill Bit

Pulley Spacer Standoff – 13/32”

Side Support Bracket - 7/32” Drill Bit

Tensioner Bolt Mount - 5/16” Drill Bit

Top Spacer Plate – 12/32” & 7/32” Drill Bit

Top Bracket – 13/32” Drill Bit

Guide Last Updated 30th April 2016, Version 2.0

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