2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 Door, Leak Corrections.: Corrective Action: Service Bulletin 23-020-08 Dated June 20
2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 Door, Leak Corrections.: Corrective Action: Service Bulletin 23-020-08 Dated June 20
2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 Door, Leak Corrections.: Corrective Action: Service Bulletin 23-020-08 Dated June 20
9/12/08
The following is a log of the various leaks I experienced with my particular 2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 door,
and the steps that were taken to finally correct the leaks.
I purchased the dual top option. With the hard top on, I experienced leak #1 and #2 described below.
With the soft top on, I also experienced leaks at all four door seals.
Here is the list of the various leaks and corrective measures taken that finally solved them for me:
Leak #1: Hard Top Freedom Panel, Front Center Seal Leak
2
1
3 Water drips from the center seal in the Hard Top Freedom
Panels (1) where it meets the windshield header weather strip.
The water drips onto the top of the center dash console (2).
This leak is characterized by water dripping 1 The rail has been lifted away to expose the cup seal
through the front driver and/or passenger
door seal and dripping onto the top of the
inside door latches.
This damaged foam creates a drip edge whereby water would run pass the door seal, and into the
inside.
Corrective Action: To my knowledge there are not any Service Bulletins to correct this leak other than
replacing the existing foam with new pieces which are then subject to the same crushing and pushing as
in figure 2. The following is what I did to correct the leak:
1. I purchased a roll of Camper Foam Tape which is very similar to the foam tape used on the rear
door rails. Napa Auto Parts number 770-1763. The tape is 1-1/4” wide and 3/16” thick, one side has
adhesive (3) (4). For about $10, you get a 30 foot roll. (Enough quantity for the life of your Jeep.)
3 4
2. Remove the rear door rails. Using a sharp razor knife, cut away a rectangular piece of the foam (as
depicted in figures 5, 6, and 7) containing the crushed portion as well as a portion that would sit
inside the rear cup seal depicted in figure 2. The foam cuts very easily, do not put much force on the
knife (damaging the plastic door rail).
5 6
7 8
3. Press an approximate 3” piece of Camper Tape into the place you just cut away (8). Reinstall the
rear door rails.
4. Trim away the new foam approximately 1-3/4” to 1-1/2” from the edge of the cup seal (9). This is
important because the rear door weather strip as a ridged foam “stuffer” in the upper portion of the
door to help seal the corner. You can feel the end of this “stuffer” with your finger as depicted in
figure 10. The stuffer will press against the foam to create a good seal when the door is shut. If the
foam extends back past the stuffer, the door weather strip will not compress the edge of the foam
properly which will cause a drip edge for leaks to occur again.
9 1-3/4” to 1-1/2 10
11
Figure 11 shows the foam edge crushed by the stuffer in the door weather strip, creating a water tight
seal. This foam extends much further past the cup seal than the original factory foam. Due to the added
length, it should resist the door’s tendency to push the foam forward overtop of the cup seal again. A
slight application of Sil-Glyde (see Leak #1 for information) on the foam piece can aid in reducing friction
from the door seal which helps to prevent the foam from being pushed forward.