Striking Fist Punch
Striking Fist Punch
Striking Fist Punch
Steps
Step 1) Without being obvious, assume a casual fighting stance with one
leg in front of the other and your hands in a pondering position like the
picture above. This stance makes you look calm, but your hands are up
enough that you can attack or block without telegraphing your intent.
2) DON’T pull your hand back like you’re winding up for a punch.
Instead, lead with your hammer fist and turn your body to add torque and
power to your movement.
Step 2) Pull both arms over your shoulder, holding the fist
vertically.
The eyes
A Hammer fist to the eye can leave the opponent temporarily (or even permanently)
blinded, leaving the striker enough time to get away.
The groin
A blow to the groin is so painful it’s normally crippling to a man for several minutes.
After a good kick in the junk or hit in the junk any male attacker will definitely be
“discouraged”.
The temple
The temple is an area on your head just behind the eyes. The skull is thinnest at this point.
A Hammer fist strike to that area can knockout an opponent.
The jaw
The jaw is another area vulnerable to strikes. The position of the jaw leaves it exposed to
strikes, and a Hammer fist there can leave the opponent unconscious.
The throat
A Hammer fist strike to the throat can disable or even kill an opponent if targeted to the
windpipe or trachea. It may not be the first choice of a target since it’s harder to hit than other
areas such as the groin or the eyes.
Ears
A Hammer fist to the ear, or both ears can leave the aggressor in pain. It may even cause
the eardrum to rupture. A double hammer fist can even do twice the damage as it can be
executed to both ears. This will add to the confusion of the attacker that its inflicted on.
The forehead
A carefully placed blow to the forehead with a Hammer fist can stun an opponent.
However, this is more effective when done by an experienced karateka.
Collarbone
A Hammer fist to the collar bone can be very painful for the opponent. He may also find
it difficult to move his arm if the collarbone is broken from the strike.
3. Backhand Strike
Back hand strikes (and slaps) are often used when the striker doesn't want to severely injure
an opponent. Rather, they are used to "warn" an opponent. However, a powerful back hand strike
can do damage to an attacker. For example, if someone is trapped in a rear bear hug, a back-hand
strike can temporarily incapacitate an opponent if used against the attacker's groin. However, in
self-defense situations, a back-fist strike (closed fist) is more likely to cause damage than a back-
hand strike (open hand).
In Karate, the back-hand strike is known as Haishu Uchi
6. Elbow Strike
1. Rising Block
An Age-Uke block or rising block is used to block or deflect attacks from high angles (i.e. a
club swinging downward towards a martial artist’s head). Karate blocks are used in self-defense,
Karate katas, Karate kihon, etc.
01: Mark the target.
02: Make a cross. The hand closest to the face is still flat (not in a fist). Palm towards face.
03: The hand the fist has-that hand twists at the end. This serves to redirect the energy of
whatever is coming at you.
04: The knees slightly bend in the middle of the move as force is exerted some time at the top.
05: You get into a downblock.
06: There is a turning of the hip.
07: Get into Zenkutsu dachi (front stance) and do a Gedan barai
2. Forearm Block
4. Downward Block
Your best target for counter attacking is based on your positioning in relation to your
attacker. The head and body both make good targets when left exposed. You can also trap the
attacker’s punching arm to apply a grappling technique. This will allow you to subdue them
without having to hit them in return.
To perform a hammerlock:
a) Grab the opponent’s same-side wrist.
b) Reach over the opponent’s arm, and hook their elbow with your opposite-side hand.
Ideally, place your middle finger in the crook of their elbow.
c) Simultaneously pull your opposite-side hand down to towards your hip, and press your same-
side hand in towards the opponent’s neck. This should turn the opponent around, pinning
their hand behind their back, with their elbow pointing out to the side (thus, a “chicken-
wing”).
If the opponent’s elbow will not bend, apply nikkyō instead.
d) Push the opponent’s elbow towards their spine, and slide their wrist up towards their neck to
increase shoulder joint pressure.
The goal is not to cause pain; the goal is to force the opponent on to their tiptoes, which
makes them easy to off-balance. Mechanical-compliance holds are always more effective
than pain-compliance holds.
e) Take your hand off the opponent’s elbow, and use it to establish head control by:
Grabbing the back of the opponent’s jacket collar.
Reaching across the opponent’s neck to grab their opposite-side lapel.
Reaching across the opponent’s neck to hook the side of their face with the back of your
hand, like an irimi hold.
While this step is not required, it is strongly recommended since most hammerlock escape waza
assume that this step was omitted. These extra grips keep the opponent from side-stepping or
ducking to extend their arm. Also, your forearm will jam or check elbow strikes from the
opponent's free arm.
f) Take a small step backwards, to slightly pull the opponent’s shoulders back past the plane of
their hips. This breaks the opponent’s balance, making them easier to move and steer. This
also precludes the opponent from performing foot hooks, sweeps, trips, or desperation
moves.
8. Grabbing
9. Headlock
a) First, you will need to get in a position where he does not control your arms.
b) Preferably with the arm going around his head (strong arm) in a dominant collar tie
position and the other arm holding his/her triceps.
c) To initiate the headlock step across his body with the leg that on the same side as your
“strong arm” and throw your hips into your opponent.
d) Take the arm that was in the collar tie and throw it around your opponent’s head. The
back of his/her neck should be on your bicep.
e) Keep a tight grip on his triceps with the other hand and try to pull it across your body.
f) If you executed the footwork properly your opponent should be “loaded up” behind your
hips.
g) Rotate your shoulders aggressively towards your opponent’s head and he/she should be
thrown over your hips.
h) Make sure once you are on the ground to keep your feet away from your opponents or
they could reverse it on you.
10. Handgrips