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    How The Fashion Industry Deals With Sustainability

    Uploaded by

    Rafael Plata

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    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    How The Fashion Industry Deals With Sustainability

    Uploaded by

    Rafael Plata
    89 views30 pages

    Original Title

    FASHION_AND_SUSTAINABILITY

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    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
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    89 views30 pages

    How The Fashion Industry Deals With Sustainability

    Uploaded by

    Rafael Plata

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 30

    HOW THE FASHION INDUSTRY

    DEALS WITH SUSTAINABILITY


    OVER THE LAST COUPLE OF SEASONS, TAGWALK HAS
    PUT A CLOSE FOCUS ON ECO-CONSCIOUS
    INITIATIVES ON BEHALF OF BRANDS, LEADING TO
    THE IMPLANTATION OF KEY WORDS SUCH AS
    “SUSTAINABLE”, “UPCYCLE” AND “HANDMADE” ON
    TAGWALK’S PLATFORM.

    INTRODUCTION EACH BRAND CONTAINING THE NOMINATED TAGS


    HAS BEEN BEEN VERIFIED PRIOR TO GOING ONLINE.

    THIS REPORT IS A SYNTHESIS AND A SELECTION OF


    VARIOUS APPROACHES FROM DIFFERENT BRANDS
    THAT TEND TO BE AS RESPONSIBLE AND "GREEN"

    AS POSSIBLE.*

    *THIS IS NOT AN EXHAUSTIVE LIST OF EVERYTHING THAT IS DONE IN THIS AREA



    AND WE RECOGNISE THAT WE DO NOT HAVE ALL OF THE INFORMATION.
    SUSTAINABLE TAG

    THE TAG IS ADDED TO CLOTHING COMING


    FROM ORGANIC MATERIALS AND FABRICS,
    WITH A CERTIFIED ORGANIC COMPOSITION.

    UPCYCLE TAG

    DEFINITIONS THE TAG IS ADDED TO CLOTHING COMING


    FROM OUT, OLD, USED, OR WASTE MATERIALS,

    ARCHIVES, OR SAMPLES.

    HANDMADE TAG

    THE TAG IS ADDED TO CLOTHING WHEN


    ELEMENTS OF PRODUCTION ARE DONE BY

    HAND, INCLUDING TRADITIONAL TOOLS

    AND TECHNIQUES.
    CHAPTER 1

    IS IT POSSIBLE FOR LUXURY


    BRANDS TO ONE DAY BE
    COMPLETELY SUSTAINABLE?
    CARMEN BUSQUETS, WWF (WORLD WILDLIFE FUND)
    COUNCIL MEMBER AND INVESTOR BEHIND LYST,
    FARFETCH, BOF, TAGWALK, NET-A-PORTER, AMONGST
    OTHERS, WAS BORN INTO A FAMILY WHO WERE
    ADVOCATES OF SUSTAINABILITY, AND MIND AND
    BODY DISCIPLINE.

    

    OVER THE LAST 30 YEARS, CARMEN HAS DEDICATED
    HERSELF TO SUSTAINABILITY AND ACTIONS THAT
    COULD BE TAKEN WITHIN THE FASHION INDUSTRY.
    CARMEN HAS TRAVELLED THE WORLD TO SEE
    ARTISANS, UNDERSTAND THEIR TECHNIQUES AND
    PROMOTE THEIR WORK. 
    “WHEN I FIRST STARTED WORKING IN FASHION 30 YEARS AGO, TRUE LUXURY WAS
    SUSTAINABLE. DESIGNERS WERE PRODUCING COLLECTIONS IN THEIR OWN COUNTRIES,
    USING LOCAL EXPERTS AND KEEPING THE SUPPLY CHAIN WITHIN AT LEAST THE SAME
    CONTINENT. STORES KNEW THEIR CUSTOMERS WELL, WHICH MEANT THEY COULD BUY FOR
    THEM AND ACHIEVE 70-80% SELL THROUGH RATES AT FULL PRICE.

    LUXURY SHOULD NEVER HAVE REACHED THE POINT OF NOT BEING SUSTAINABLE. GREED
    AND YEARS OF MALPRACTICE TOOK OVER OUR INDUSTRY, HOWEVER THE RESPONSIBILITY
    DOES NOT FALL ON BRANDS ALONE, IT IS ALSO SHARED BY THE MEDIA AND THE END
    CUSTOMER. ALL LOST SIGHT OF WHAT TRUE LUXURY MEANT.

    MANY SMALL BRANDS AND PARTS OF COLLECTIONS FROM LUXURY GIANTS ARE STILL
    SUSTAINABLE. WHETHER IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THE ENTIRE INDUSTRY TO FOLLOW COURSE WILL
    DEPEND ON BRANDS GOING BACK TO BEING LED BY CREATIVITY AND DEMAND.”

    CARMEN BUSQUETS
    CHAPTER 2

    KEY NUMBERS
    ON SUSTAINABILITY
    KEY NUMBERS
    WOMENSWEAR + MENSWEAR

    FALL/WINTER 2020 COLLECTIONS

    335 139
    LOOKS WERE FULLY LOOKS WERE FULLY
    SUSTAINABLE UPCYCLED

    +111% VS F/W19 +99% VS F/W19


    KEY NUMBERS
    WOMENSWEAR + MENSWEAR

    FALL/WINTER 2020 COLLECTIONS

    DROP IN PLASTIC USE DROP IN FUR USE

    -25%
    OF LOOKS

    -50%
    OF COLLECTIONS

    -57%
    OF LOOKS

    -31%
    OF COLLECTIONS

    VS F/W19 VS F/W19 VS F/W19 VS F/W19
    *SHARE OF SUSTAINABLE LOOKS WITH EACH MATERIAL
    KEY NUMBERS
    MOST USED MATERIALS ON “ECO-CONSCIOUS”
    LOOKS DURING FALL/WINTER 2020 WOMENSWEAR SHOWS

    KNIT LACE DENIM

    22% 10% 5%
    CONSUMER INSIGHTS
    TAGWALK SURVEY, APRIL 20TH: 800 PARTICIPANTS

    NO YES

    46%
    DO YOU CHECK IF A BRAND
    IS SUSTAINABLE BEFORE BUYING? 54% YES NO
    WOULD YOU PAY MORE FOR
    THE EXACT SAME ITEM IF YOU
    KNEW IT WAS SUSTAINABLE? 75% 25%
    YES NO
    DO YOU FEEL FASHION BRANDS
    TOOK A STEP TOWARDS
    SUSTAINABILITY DURING 52% 48%
    THE LAST FASHION WEEK? YES NO

    29%
    ARE YOU TRYING
    TO BUY LOCAL? 71%
    NO YES
    DO YOU STILL BUY CLOTHES
    THAT CONTAIN LATEX
    OR PLASTIC?
    62% 38%
    CHAPTER 3

    RUNWAY BRANDS WITH


    ECO CONSCIOUS INITIATIVES
    STELLA MCCARTNEY - F/W2020
    FOCUS ON 

    BRANDS WITH
    SUSTAINABLE AND/OR
    UPCYCLED COLLECTIONS
    REDEMPTION STELLA MCCARTNEY

    WITH A DISRUPTIVE BUSINESS MODEL THAT AIMS TO STELLA MCCARTNEY IS A PIONEER OF THE SUSTAINABLE
    GIVE 50% OF PROFITS TO CHARITABLE CAUSES, ON THE RUNWAY, WITH A NON-EXHAUSTIVE LIST OF
    REDEMPTION HAS ALWAYS PLACED GREAT EMPHASIS INITIATIVES FOR BEING RESPONSIBLE AND ETHICAL: 

    ON MINIMISING ITS FOOTPRINT ON THE FUR FREE, NO PVC, LEATHER FREE (USE OF FAUX VEGAN
    ENVIRONMENT BY SOURCING SUSTAINABLE FABRICS LEATHER), ORGANIC COTTON, RECYCLED POLYESTER,
    AND MATERIALS, AND BY PRODUCING ITS CLOTHES USE OF ECONYL, USE OF COREVA - A PLANT BASED

    EXCLUSIVELY IN ITALY. STRETCH DENIM
    GABRIELA HEARST ATLEIN

    ATLEIN IS USING UPCYCLING, LOCAL SOURCING AND


    FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2020, GABRIELA HEARST
    INNOVATIVE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS TO MINIMISE
    PRODUCED THE FIRST EVER CARBON NEUTRAL
    ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT. THE COLLECTION IS SHORT-
    RUNWAY SHOW. THE BRAND ALSO BECAME 

    CIRCUIT MANUFACTURED, MOSTLY IN FRANCE.

    PLASTIC-FREE AND INTRODUCED RECYCLED
    THE BRAND IS USING NATURAL AND RECYCLED
    CARDBOARD HANGERS IN 2019.
    MATERIALS LIKE VEGAN LEATHER.
    PHIPPS MARINE SERRE

    IN AN EFFORT TO CURB OVERPRODUCTION, PHIPPS


    MARINE SERRE IS A SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRAND AND
    LAUNCHED PHIPPS GOLD LABEL: A COLLECTION OF
    CALLS HER PROCESS “REGENERATION”. THE BRAND
    PHIPPS’ CUSTOMISED VINTAGE AND DEAD-STOCK
    RECENTLY LAUNCHED THE REGENERATED VIDEOS
    GARMENTS AS BOTH UNIQUE PIECES AND FULL SIZE
    SHOWING ITS PROCESS FOR REGENERATED DENIM,
    RANGES SOURCED FROM SPECIALISED SUPPLIERS. THE
    LEATHER, SILK SCARVES, BEDSHEETS, CROCHET,

    F/W20 COLLECTION INCLUDES RE-PURPOSED DENIM
    AND TOWELS.
    PANTS AND JACKETS. 
    MAISON MARGIELA BOTTER

    MAISON MARGIELA DEFINES ITS CONCEPT AS ALL THE LOOKS FROM BOTTER FALL 2020 SHOW ARE
    “RECICLA”: AUTHENTIC UPCYCLED VINTAGE PIECES HANDMADE IN PARIS AND BELGIUM, AND PRODUCED
    HANDPICKED BY JOHN GALLIANO, RESTORED AND IN EUROPE. ALL THE PLASTIC ACCESSORIES ARE
    REAPPROPRIATED. EACH “RECICLA" PIECE FEATURES A HANDMADE AND UPCYCLED, AND ALL THE SHOES ARE
    WHITE LABEL, DENOTING ITS LIMITED EDITION, MADE FROM UPCYCLED BANKER. THE WOOL SUITS ARE
    PROVENANCE, AND PERIOD. BIODEGRADABLE.
    PRADA - F/W2020
    FOCUS ON 

    INITIATIVES ON ECO-
    CONSCIOUS MATERIALS
    BY BRANDS
    VEGETABLE LEATHER UPCYLED DENIM

    FOR F/W2020, MATTY


    SALVATORE FERRAGAMO IS USING BOVAN WORKED WITH
    VEGETABLE LEATHER, AN FIORUCCI WHO SUPPLIED
    ORGANIC METHOD BASED ON REJECTED GARMENTS FOR
    NATURAL VEGETABLE TANNINS BOVAN TO UPCYCLE.
    FROM PLANTS OR TREES,
    WITHOUT USING CHROME. THE OTTOLINGER IS USING
    PIGMENT TO APPLY COLOUR ON RECYCLED AND ORGANIC
    IS A NATURAL PIGMENT. COTTON FOR ITS F/W 2020
    DENIM PIECES.
    RECYCLED NYLON ECONYL®
    ECONYL® IS 100% REGENERATED NYLON FIBRE FROM FISHING NETS AND OTHER
    NYLON SCRAPS, ENFORCING THAT MATTER CANNOT BE CREATED OR
    DESTROYED. THE FABRIC REQUIRES NO NEW MATERIAL INPUT.

    PRADA IS USING FIBRES FROM 100% OF MARCIA’S


    RECYCLED PLASTIC BOTTLES. COLLECTIONS ARE MADE
    FROM ECONYL® AS WELL AS
    ALYX’S NYLON LOOKS.
    UPCYCLE CAPSULE

    EMPORIO ARMANI MEN & WOMENS F/W20 



    “I’M SAYING YES TO RECYCLING” IS A SELECTION
    OF PIECES AND ACCESSORIES CRAFTED FROM
    RECYCLED, REGENERATED, OR ORGANIC
    MATERIALS (REGENERATED WOOL, ORGANIC
    COTTON, RECYCLED NYLON, AND PADDING).
    BOGDAR - F/W2020
    FOCUS ON 

    BRAND’S INITIATIVES ON
    RESPONSIBLE AND LOCAL
    PRODUCTION
    BOGDAR PATRICIA PADRÓN

    AT LEAST HALF TO THE COLLECTIONS ARE ALL THE CLOTHES ARE HANDMADE IN
    PRODUCED WITH ORGANIC, RECYCLED, OR THE BRAND’S ATELIER BASED IN MADRID. PATRICIA IS
    SUSTAINABLE FABRICS. THEY WORK WITH SOCIALLY RENOWNED FOR THE CRAFTSMANSHIP, ARTISAN
    RESPONSIBLE FABRIC SUPPLIERS, CERTIFIED FOR CLEAN TECHNIQUES, AND METICULOUS PROCESS TO DELIVER A
    PRODUCTION, THAT DON’T HARM THE ENVIRONMENT. HIGH-END PRODUCT.
    AYNI BODE

    ALL THE PRODUCTS ARE DESIGNED AND MADE IN


    INSPIRED BY HISTORICAL TEXTILES, BODE’S PIECES
    PERU WITH PERUVIAN MATERIALS LIKE PIMA COTTON
    ARE HAND EMBROIDERED LOCALLY, BY TAILORS, AND

    AND BABY ALPACA. THE TWO DESIGNERS FOUNDED
    IN SMALL RUNS. THE BRAND IS USING RECYCLED,
    AYNI CORP TO DEVELOP RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS
    UPCYCLED, AND NATURAL TEXTILES AND IS SOLD IN
    PRACTICES AND A PARTICIPATION IN SUSTAINABLE
    LIMITED STOCK IN ITS NEW YORK BOUTIQUE.
    DEVELOPMENTS, INVOLVING EVERYONE WITHIN THE
    VALUE CHAIN.
    NICOLAS LECOURT MANSION KENNETH IZE

    THE BRAND IS PRODUCING IN FRANCE ONLY


    THE BRAND SUPPORTS A SMALL COMMUNITY OF
    AND IN LIMITED QUANTITY. ALL THE FABRICS ARE
    WEAVERS AND WORKS DIRECTLY WITH
    FROM NATURAL AND RESPONSIBLE ORIGIN.
    ARTISANS AND DESIGN GROUPS IN NIGERIA. 

    KENNETH IZE IS MERGING HIS DESIGN WITH LOCAL
    HANDCRAFT PRACTICES OF NIGERIAN ARTISANS.
    RENAISSANCE SUPER YAYA

    CYNTHIA MERHEJ LAUNCHED HER OWN BRAND IN THE A LARGE PART OF THE COLLECTION IS
    SAME ATELIER IN BEIRUT AS HER GREAT GRANDMOTHER. HANDMADE BY ARTISANS. THE PATCHWORK IS MADE
    ALL THE CLOTHES ARE HANDMADE IN LEBANON WITH A OF HAND-DYED BASIN AND WAX FABRIC FROM AFRICA
    GREAT ATTENTION TO CRAFTSMANSHIP. BY LOCAL ARTISANS.
    CHAPTER 4

    FOCUS ON COUTURE ECO


    CONSCIOUS INITIATIVES
    JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
    JEAN PAUL GAULTIER’S CAREER LAST
    SHOW HAD UPCYCLING AS ITS MAIN
    THEME. THE BRAND USED ITS ARCHIVES
    AS MATERIALS FOR THE COLLECTION.

    VIKTOR&ROLF + RVDK

    RONALD VAN DER KEMP
    TWO COLLECTIONS WERE 100% PRODUCED
    FROM UPCYCLED MATERIALS FROM
    ARCHIVES OF FABRICS AND SAMPLES FROM
    THE PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS.
    MAISON MARGIELA
    FOR MAISON MARGIELA'S ‘ARTISANAL’ SHOW, THE MAJORITY

    OF FABRICS USED IN THE COLLECTION WERE RECLAIMED*. 


    THE HEADPIECES ARE BIODEGRADABLE AS WELL AS THE



    JEWELLERY, MADE FROM FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. 

    

    THE THEME OF THE COLLECTION WAS “BOURGEOISIE”,
    INTRODUCING A NEW BOURGEOIS CONSCIOUSNESS FOUNDED
    IN ETHICAL PRINCIPLES OF LUXURY.

    *RECLAIMED: UNUSED FABRICS OR PIECES FROM LEFTOVERS USED TO MAKE NEW ITEMS OUT OF THEM

    JULIE DE LIBRAN

    JULIE DE LIBRAN’S FIRST COUTURE SHOW


    WAS 100% SUSTAINABLE, MADE ONLY OF
    UPCYCLED FABRICS.
    THANK YOU!

    INFO@TAG-WALK.COM

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