Two Stroke & ATV

Tuning Manual

Thank you for purchasing your Lectron!

We are happy that you are now part of the legend that includes champions and performance
enthusiasts from all motorsport disciplines. Please review the following manual for your new two stroke
or racing Lectron carburetor.

Contents
Sample Installation........................................................................................................................................ 2
Lectron Basics ............................................................................................................................................... 6
First Start .................................................................................................................................................. 7
Two Stroke Metering Rod Tuning ................................................................................................................. 7
Rich Metering Rod Indications ................................................................................................................. 7
Lean Metering Rod Indications ................................................................................................................ 7
Basic Metering Rod Starting Points for Standard Fuels ................................................................................ 8
Two Stroke Power Jet Tuning...................................................................................................................... 10
Rich Power Jet Indications ..................................................................................................................... 10
Lean Power Jet Indications .................................................................................................................... 10
Basic Power Jet Starting Points for Standard Fuels .................................................................................... 10
Recommended Tuning Procedures ............................................................................................................. 11
Tuning the Idle........................................................................................................................................ 11
Low Throttle Position Tuning ................................................................................................................. 11
Testing the Response............................................................................................................................. 11
High Throttle Position Tuning ............................................................................................................. 11
Dyno Tuning............................................................................................................................................ 11
Troubleshooting .......................................................................................................................................... 12

Page 1
Sample Installation
These are some general steps and guidelines for installing your new Lectron carburetor. The actual steps
you take may vary. Please note: Idling or revving a bike on an unpadded metal stand on a concrete floor
will amplify the vibration to the carburetor and can make it overflow.

Step 1: Remove the seat and lower subframe bolts. 2016 and older KTMs will only have one seat bolt
located under the rear fender.

Step 2: Remove the gas tank and air filter.

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Step 3: Loosen the top subframe bolts and remove the silencer or reposition the connecting boot so you
can raise your subframe and access the carburetor.

You can either slide the rubber boot

onto the pipe or remove the silencer
completely. This will allow you to
rotate the subframe upward.

Step 4: Rotate your subframe, and remove the stock carburetor, throttle, and cable. Remove the 3
screws from the top of the carburetor and take out the slide before installing the Lectron onto the bike.

You can either slide the rubber boot

onto the pipe or remove the silencer
completely. This will allow you to
rotate the subframe upward.

Compression of the air boot is common and nothing to worry about. Your air boot may touch the shock
spring when the bike is unloaded, and flex away once a load is put on the bike. If you are running a reed
spacer, you may need to remove it for clearance (Common on YZ 125/Beta XTrainer). Some models like
KTM FreeRides and 65-85cc bikes have nubs on the intake flange that can interfere with allowing the
carburetor to fully seat. Use some dish soap and a sharp razor to cut them flush (see next page).

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Step 5: Decide how you want your throttle cable routed. Here are some common cable routing options.
If you decide to use zip ties or cable guides, do NOT tighten them fully. The cable should float freely.

Standard Length Cables Long Cables

Behind the bars, right side of the frame In front of the bars, left side of the frame
Behind the bars, left side of the frame Behind the bars, left side of the frame (with risers)
In front of the bars, right side of the frame

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Step 6: Thread the cable all the way into the top cover of the carburetor. Then, seat the end of the
Lectron throttle cable in the slide. Most Lectrons require specific cables with more inner cable length.

Some models that use the stock cable (YZ 65/85) may need to have the jam nut removed from the cable
to increase the cable free play.

Step 7: Every cable will need the inner cable length (free play) set. Not setting free play will cause
binding in the throttle housing and damage the cable.

Thread in the adjuster at the throttle until you have 1-3 threads showing. This will be the on-the-fly
adjustment. Use the inline adjuster (pictured below) to take the rest of the slack out. The slide begins to
rise once all the excess slack is gone. The slide opening can be visually inspected, or you can listen for an
increase in RPM with the bike idling.

Once the slide changes position, you will want to turn the adjusters back in about 3 turns to add
sufficient free play to the cable. Finally, tighten the lock nut to save the setting.

Some cables do not have an inline adjuster and you will need to use the adjuster at the throttle housing
to achieve proper free play.

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Step 8: To check the free play, remove the top cover from your throttle assembly and screw in the bolt
that holds the top cover on. You may need to use a small washer to hold the wheel in place. Twist the
throttle from closed, to wide open, to closed again to ensure everything travels freely. There should be a
small amount of slack, but not enough to make the cable rub on the inside of the throttle housing.
Reinstall the cover and confirm again that the slide travels freely and the throttle snaps shut. If it does
not snap shut do NOT run the bike.

Prior to Starting:
• Move the handlebars left and right to make sure the cable is not binding. If it is binding, reroute
the cable.
• Make sure the air filter is clean and not over-oiled.
• Install a new spark plug.
• Fill the tank with fresh gas. Mix the oil according to the oil manufacturer’s specification.

Lectron Basics
Lectrons use the density of the air, the vacuum from the engine, and the grind of the metering rod to
deliver the proper amount of air and fuel in a wide range of elevations and weather conditions.

Lectrons come pre-tuned based on years of testing and feedback. Some tuning may be required due to
modifications, different fuels, and personal preference. All carburetors are given a basic starting point to
tune from. This is based on being gauged with our Fuel Ratio Tool and measured with calipers. Starting
points can vary due to the batch the rod comes out of while still delivering the exact same fuel profile.
DO NOT USE A MEASUREMENT FROM ANOTHER CARBURETOR.

Lectrons do NOT compensate for engine load. If you plan to use your Lectron for snowbiking or dune
riding, continue to read for instructions on how to tune specifically for those high load applications.

Always turn the petcock off after riding to prevent the possibility of flooding the engine.

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First Start
Do not run the bike on a metal stand on a hard floor. The excess vibration can cause the
carburetor to overflow.

1. Choke should be fully open.

2. Start the bike without opening the throttle. IF THE BIKE REVS UNCONTROLLABLY, DO NOT RIDE
IT. Check for proper cable free play and go back through the installation steps. If it still revs
uncontrollably, call Lectron.
3. Slightly rev the bike to keep it running if necessary, then turn the choke off after a few seconds.
4. Continue to slightly rev engine a few times and let it return to idle.

Take the bike for an easy test ride and observe the performance. Do NOT tune it on the stand.

Two Stroke Metering Rod Tuning

The metering rod allows for ¼ turn adjustment increments. Do NOT tune it before riding it. Lectron
offers many different rod profiles to suit all riding styles. To adjust the rod, remove the three screws
from the top of the carburetor and remove the slide assembly.
• Richen it by threading the rod in (shortening it).
• Lean it by threading the rod out (lengthening it).

The flat side of the metering rod must ALWAYS FACE THE ENGINE. If the rod does not face the engine
after your adjustment, push the metering rod up into the slide, and rotate it to where the flat side faces
the engine. Metering rods will have play in them. When the spring is engaged, the length will not
change. Each ¼ turn is .006”
Rich Metering Rod Indications
• Idle screw turned all the way in/large • Pipe bang on decal
slide gap at idle • Runs worse at elevation
• Slow return to idle • Black or wet spark plug
• Blubbering/stuttering at low throttle • Does not want to rev until higher RPM
• Reduced fuel mileage
Lean Metering Rod Indications
• Idle screw turned out/small slide gap • Detonation at low throttle positions.
• Stumbles off idle/does not take throttle • Runs better on choke
• Reduced power • Runs better at elevation
• Fast hanging idle/wandering idle • No color on the spark plug
• Hard to start • No power until higher RPM
• Sounds zingy, pingy or metallic.

If the low to mid performance is strong but the power jet is completely closed, go to the next
leaner series metering rod. Example: Change from a 6-2 metering rod to a 5-2 metering rod.

If the metering rod is tuned for peak power and response, but the idle screw is turned all the way in, go
to the next leaner rod in the same series. Example: Change from a 4-2 metering rod to a 4-1 metering
rod.

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Smaller bore carburetors often require leaner metering rods due to the increased velocity and fuel lift.
Larger bore carburetors often need richer metering rods due to the reduced velocity and fuel lift.
Example: A 500cc engine with a 38mm carburetor may run best with a 5-2 metering rod, while the same
engine with a 44mm carburetor may require a 7-2.

Attempting to run a 7-2 metering rod in the 38mm carburetor would result in a completely closed power
jet (rich top end) and a lazy off-idle response (rich low end). This is due to the increased amount of
velocity and fuel lift created by the smaller bore.

Please note that changing the bore size of a carburetor can drastically alter the torque curve.

Basic Metering Rod Starting Points for Standard Fuels

Lectrons are pre-tuned from the factory and come with their starting settings. If you lose that
information, you can use these are general starting points. Additional tuning may be required.

Two Stroke Rod Turns in Past Last Thread General Starting Length (inches)
2-3 2 2.050-2.070
3-2 or 3-2m 5 2.005-2.020
4-2 or 4-2m 3.5 2.025-2.040
4-1 4.5 1.985-2.005
5-1 5 1.995-2.010
5-2 3.25 2.020-2.040
6-2 2.75 2.050-2.065
7-2 2.5 2.020-2.040

How to Measure the Starting Length:

Use the probe end of Vernier calipers to measure from the brass ring in the slide to the tip of the
metering rod. Do not collapse the spring when measuring.

How to Measure the Starting Length:

Thread the rod into the slide just until there are the last thread disappears. Continue turning the rod in
based on the details below. Once you have reached that point, press the rod into the slide to collapse
the spring, rotate the rod to where the flat side will be facing the motor, and release it.

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 Metering Rod Selection Chart
Lean
(Top) Rich (Idle to Mid)

Top End Idle to Mid

0-2 0-3
1-2 1-3 1-4 125-220cc
2-1 2-2 2-3 2-4 250-330cc
3-2m* 400-500cc
3-0 3-1 3-2 3-3 3-4 Sleds
4-2m* Alcohol
4-0 4-1 4-2 4-3 4-4
5-0 5-1 5-2 5-3 5-4
6-0 6-1 6-2 6-3 6-4
7-0 7-1 7-2 7-3 7-4
8-0 8-1 8-2 8-3 8-4
9-0 9-1 9-2 9-3 9-4
10-0 10-1 10-2 10-3 10-4
11-0 11-1 11-2 11-3 11-4
12-0 12-1 12-2 12-3 12-4
13-0 13-1 13-2 13-3 13-4
14-0 14-1 14-2 14-3 14-4
15-0 15-1 15-2 15-3 15-4
16-0 16-1 16-2 16-3 16-4
17-0 17-1 17-2 17-3 17-4
18-0 18-1 18-2 18-3 18-4
19-0 19-1 19-2 19-3 19-4
Rich (Top) A-6 (Custom Alcohol)
Notes
1. *Modified (m) rods: The 3-2m has the same fuel from idle to 1/4 throttle as a 2-2, but the same
fuel from mid to top as a standard 3 series rod.
The 4-2m has the same fuel from idle to 1/8th throttle as a 4-2, but the same fuel in the mid to
top as a standard 3 series rod.

2. The larger the difference between the first and second number indicates the aggressiveness of
the slope. A 5-1 (4 difference) has a more aggressive grind than a 4-2 (2 difference), meaning
the 5-1 is lean near idle and very rich in the mid to top. The 4-2 is richer than the 5-1 at idle,
but not as rich in the mid to top.

3. Rods are grouped into a series based off their top end number. The bottom end is directly
comparable to their own series (ex. 4-1 to 4-2), but NOT to rods in a different series (the
bottom end is slightly richer on a 5-1 than a 4-1).

4. A rule of thumb is if you go up two rod series for a richer top end, drop one number to
maintain a similar bottom end (ex. 6-2 to an 8-1).

5. Some metering rods are stock for one cc range, but alternate rods for other cc ranges.

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Two Stroke Power Jet Tuning
The power jet works like a valve or faucet. Tighten it down to reduce the flow (clockwise - leaner) and
loosen it up to increase the flow (counterclockwise - richer).

Rich Power Jet Indications

• Blubbering at wide open throttle (runs like choke is on)
• Not revving out
• Less peak HP (lean no more than 1/4 turn at a time)
• Torque curve falls off at high rpm
Lean Power Jet Indications
• Detonation at high RPM (Sounds like marbles in engine)
• Discolored pipe from heat
• Spark plug that is white with crystals or blistered
• Clacking or rattling (detonation) at high throttle positions
• Less peak HP

For extremely cold temperatures or high load applications (dunes, deep sand tracks, snow-biking etc.)
you may need to richen up your power jet by ½ turn or more.

Basic Power Jet Starting Points for Standard Fuels

Factory Power Jet Settings for Dirt Bikes (Turns from Seated)
36mm for 125-200: 1
36mm for 250-300: 1
38 or 38 H-Series 125-300 with 3 or 4 series rod: 1
38 or 38 H-Series 125-300 with 5 series rod: 3/4
40-44mm 500cc: 1.25

Factory Power Jet Settings for Snow Bikes or Dunes (Turns from Seated)
36mm for 125-200: 1.5
36mm for 250-300: 1.5
38 or 38HV 125-300: 1.5
40-44mm 500cc: 1.5

Page
10
Recommended Tuning Procedures
Tuning the Idle
Lectrons respond best to a good, quick idle. This will vary based on the machine, but it is typically
between 1600-1900 RPM. Running too low of an idle can cause poor low throttle response, plug fouling,
or stalling when going down hills. The bike must be up to operating temperature before setting the idle.

The air-fuel ratio (AFR) with the throttle closed determines the idle RPM. The leaner the AFR, the higher
the bike idles. The idle screw raises and lowers the slide which adds or reduces the air flow.

The metering rod delivers the fuel. If the idle screw is all the way in and the idle is still too low, lean out
the metering rod.

Low Throttle Position Tuning

To diagnose whether the bike is lean or rich on the metering rod, fire the bike up and get it up to
operating temperature. Then, install a brand-new spark plug and ride the bike at below half throttle for
about 15 minutes. Pull the spark plug and examine the color.

Two strokes make the best power with a dark brown or light black spark plug. A leaner setting will make
the throttle response crisper. A richer setting will create more torque. If the plug is white and speckled,
richen the metering rod. If the plug is black or wet, lean out the metering rod. See the “Two Stroke
Metering Rod Tuning” section for more information.

If you are using an aftermarket CDI, begin tuning at the neutral setting. Advancing the ignition timing too
far can cause the bike to hesitate or respond erratically as if the metering rod is too lean. We
recommend no higher than Map 5 on a Vortex CDI.

If a ¼ turn adjustment on the metering rod makes the bike go from too lean to too rich (or vice-versa),
perform a leak down test.

Testing the Response

Have the bike up to operating temperature and ride it at a brisk walking pace in 2nd gear. Open the
throttle quickly and the bike should respond. If the bike gags or wants to shut off, richen the metering
rod ½ turn at a time until the response improves. If the bike blubbers and smokes a lot or is slow to pick
up but does not gag, then lean out the metering rod ¼ turn at a time until the response improves.

High Throttle Position Tuning

The Power Jet is the fine-tuning device for half to wide open throttle. Always adjust the Power Jet richer
first unless you are certain the bike is already too rich. If you richen the Power Jet by ½ turn and it stays
the same or gets worse, try going leaner 1/8th to ¼ turn at a time. See the “Two Stroke Power Jet
Tuning” section for more information.

Basic Dyno Tuning

Lectrons use tapered smooth bores in conjunction with superior atomization from the metering rod to
have great response and make more peak HP and overrev.

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Rolling on the throttle will give you the results that best mimic what the rider will experience in the field.
Snapping the throttle (especially at too low of an RPM) can cause a 200-300 RPM “lean” dip on the
graph that does not reflect what the rider will feel.

If there is a substantial lean dip early in the curve, richen the metering rod to improve the low throttle
response and torque. If you richen the metering rod by 1.5 turns (for example) and the dip is gone but
the bike no longer idles, go to a metering rod with a richer second number (5-1 to 5-2). Begin tuning
from the stock position.

The Power Jet is the main tuning device on the dyno for peak HP. If the overrev drops off too early, the
Power Jet is usually too rich. You can open the Power Jet another ¼ turn to confirm this before going
leaner. If the curve has dips in it at high RPM, the Power Jet is usually too lean

If you have gone leaner and richer on the Power Jet and the peak HP and overrev does not improve,
adjust the metering rod (usually richer). If you richen the metering rod and the peak HP and overrev
improves but the bike no longer idles or responds well, go to the next richer series metering rod (5-1 to
a 6-1).

Troubleshooting
Bike revs up at idle or idle screw does not do anything
This is caused by not having enough free play in the cable or an improper throttle cam/tube setup. Your
slide should have about a 1/8th inch opening at idle.

Bike immediately shuts off when the throttle is closed

Check for about a 1/8th inch slide opening with the throttle closed. If the slide is completely closed with
no opening: With the bike off, hold the throttle wide open and turn the idle screw all the way in. Let go
of the throttle, and back the idle screw out ¾ of a turn. Start the bike and set the idle appropriately.

Spooge out of the exhaust

Tune your Lectron for the best performance, not the least amount of smoke. Certain brand oils and
mixture rates smoke and spooge more than others. Consider changing to an oil with a lower flashpoint.
If you notice oil on your swingarm, replace your packing and clean your spark arrestor if you are running
one. Worn out piston rings and clutch side crank seals can also cause excessive smoke.

Suddenly running rich

Check the float bowl for an air gap in the top right corner. If the bowl is completely full or fuel is coming
out of the vent lines, clean the needle and seat (below).

Make sure the vents are not plugged. This can be checked by plugging all but one vent line with your
thumb in one hand and blowing in the last one gently. You should see fuel move up the power jet line.
Alternate between each line. If the fuel level in the line does not change, then a vent or line is plugged.

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Check the reeds and exhaust packing. Clean the spark arrestor and air filter. Lectron tuning cannot
change by itself. Check the compression and put in a new spark plug. Make sure the air filter is not over-
oiled.

Suddenly running lean

Make sure the Lectron is properly seated in the intake flange. Check the intake flange for cracks or leaks
and make sure all intake gaskets are sealing. Have a trained mechanic perform a leak down test to check
for any air leaks.

Hard to start
Make sure you are NOT giving the bike throttle as you try to start it. Once the bike is started and warm,
pull the choke up. If it does nothing or the RPM goes up, replace the choke. If the RPM drops, the choke
is working properly. For further troubleshooting, check for an air gap in the float bowl. If the bowl is
completely full, clean the needle and seat (below). Check for weak spark or plug fouling. Check the reeds
as poorly sealing reeds prevent the Lectron from pulling fuel. Check engine compression.

Will not start – spark plug is dry

Check for fuel in the float bowl and that the flat side of the metering rod is facing the engine. Check for
about 1/8th inch slide opening. If the slide is completely closed, open the throttle with the bike off and
thread the idle screw in until it holds the slide open about 1/8th inch. Confirm that the reeds are in good
condition, the compression is within spec, and perform a leak down test.

If the bike still will not start, manually prime it. Plug all but one vent line using your thumb in one hand.
Take the vent line that is not plugged and blow into it until you see fuel flow through the power jet line
and into the bore of the carburetor. Start the bike.

Will not start – spark plug is wet.

Hold the throttle wide open and kick the bike 5-10 times. If it does not sound like it wants to start,
remove the spark plug and air filter from the bike. Kick the bike to purge the bike out the excess fuel.
Check the spark with a fresh plug and reinstall it. Put fresh gas in the bike. Kick the bike with no throttle
and no choke, and it should start up.

Carburetor overflowing/no fuel in float bowl - Cleaning the needle and seat
Your needle seat valve most likely has debris in it or is gunked up. Drain the fuel from the bowl or let
the bike idle out with the petcock off, remove the fuel line from the barb and spray a shot of WD40
through the fuel inlet followed by a shot of compressed air at a moderate pressure. Repeat 3 times. If it
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is still overflowing, you may need a new needle and seat. Do NOT remove the seat unless you have a
new crush washer that seals the seat to the body of the Lectron.

Here is a video demonstration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMjOIwNmE88&feature=emb_title

Air boot fitment

Shock springs move very little and some contact with the spring is not an issue. Some distortion of the
air boot is normal and will not affect performance. If you have an aftermarket reed spacer, you may
need to remove it for better clearance. If you are getting a bulge on the inside of your air boot from
having a tight fit, reinstall your carburetor and all the plastics.

Changing elevations
If your carb is tuned well at your current elevation – not too rich, but not too lean – no adjustment is
needed. However, if you are rich at low elevations or very lean at high elevations, you may need to
adjust the metering rod or power jet.

Riding below freezing

Lectrons compensate for the widest range of elevation and temperature of any carburetor. However,
temperatures below freezing will often need a richer setting. If you are ice racing or snow biking, richen
the power jet by ½ turn and consider running the next richer metering rod.

Storing the bike for a long period of time

Add stabilizer to the fuel, then turn the petcock off and let the bike idle out. Spray a shot of WD40
through the fuel inlet barb to lubricate the needle seat valve.

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