2015 Kawasaki kx450f 52462

GENERAL INFORMATION j
Quick Reference Guide

This Quick Reference Guide will assist you in MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT j
finding the information you’re looking for.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE j
TUNING j
STORAGE j
A Table of Contents is included after the

Foreword.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
• This vehicle is designed for the operator only, no passengers.

• highways. is a competition model only and was not manufactured for use on public streets, roads or
This vehicle
• The use of this vehicle should be limited to participation in sanctioned competition events upon a closed
course.
• Read
This vehicle should not be used for general off-road recreational riding.
• owner’s manual.
Whenever you see the symbols shown below, IMPORTANT NOTICE
heed their instructions! Always follow safe operat-
THIS VEHICLE IS A COMPETITION MODEL
ing and maintenance practices.
ONLY AND WAS NOT MANUFACTURED
FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON, PUB-
DANGER LIC STREETS, ROADS, OR HIGHWAYS. THE
DANGER indicates a hazardous situation USE OF THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE LIMITED
which, if not avoided, will result in death or TO PARTICIPATION IN SANCTIONED COMPE-
serious injury. TITION EVENTS UPON A CLOSED COURSE.
THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR
GENERAL OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RIDING.
WARNING READ OWNER’S MANUAL.
WARNING indicates a hazardous situation
which, if not avoided, could result in death
or serious injury. WARNING
THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR
GENERAL OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RID-
NOTICE ING.
NOTICE is used to address practices not re-
lated to personal injury.
NOTE
NOTE indicates information that may help or guide
you in the operation or service of the vehicle.
DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY
This motorcycle is sold AS IS, with all faults,
obvious or concealed and there are NO WAR-
RANTIES, expressed or implied. Including war-
ranties of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR
PURPOSE.
The purchaser accepts all responsibilities con-
cerning quality, performance, cost of service
and/or necessary repairs.
NOTICE
Off-road motorcycling is a wonderful sport, and
we hope you will enjoy it to the fullest. How-
ever, if improperly conducted, this sport has
the potential to cause environmental problems
as well as conflicts with other people. Respon-
sible use of your off-road motorcycle will en-
sure that these problems and conflicts do not
occur. TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR
SPORT, MAKE SURE YOU USE YOUR MOTOR-
CYCLE LEGALLY, SHOW CONCERN FOR THE
ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS
OF OTHER PEOPLE.
WARNING
The engine exhaust from this product con-
tains chemicals known to the State of Cali-
fornia to cause cancer, birth defects or other
reproductive harm.
FOREWORD
Congratulations on your choosing this Kawasaki motorcycle. Your new motorcycle is the product of
Kawasaki’s advanced engineering, exhaustive testing, and continuous striving for a superior lightweight,
high-performance machine with superb handling and stability for racing and sporting use.
Your new KX is a highly tuned competition machine for participation in racing events. As with any mechan-
ical device, proper care and maintenance are important for trouble-free operation and top performance. This
manual is written to enable you to keep your KX properly tuned and adjusted.
Due to improvements in design and performance made during production, in some cases there may be minor
discrepancies between the actual vehicle and the illustrations and text in this manual.
KAWASAKI HEAVY INDUSTRIES, LTD.

Motorcycle & Engine Company
© 2014 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. Mar. 17, 2014. (5)

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SPECIFICATIONS............................................ 8 Rear Axle Nut ................................................ 92
GENERAL INFORMATION.............................. 12 Drive Chain.................................................... 92
Location of Labels ......................................... 12 Adjustable Ergonomics.................................. 98
Location of Parts ........................................... 17 Footpeg ......................................................... 100
Side Stand..................................................... 20 Brakes ........................................................... 102
Fuel ............................................................... 21 Steering ......................................................... 105
Fuel Requirement:...................................... 22 Front Suspension .......................................... 108
Kick Pedal ..................................................... 24 Rear Suspension (UNI-TRAK®)..................... 155
Starting the Engine........................................ 24 Wheels .......................................................... 161
Launch Control Mode .................................... 26 Hoses Inspection ........................................... 164
DFI Setting Data Selection ............................ 27 Tightening Torques of Nuts and Bolts............ 165
Shifting Gears................................................ 28 Cleaning Your Motorcycle.............................. 169
Stopping the Motorcycle ................................ 29 Lubrication ..................................................... 171
Stopping the Engine ...................................... 29 DFI Self-Diagnosis ....................................... 174
Break-In......................................................... 30 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE......................... 181
Daily Pre-Ride Checks .................................. 31 TUNING............................................................ 188
After-Race Checks ........................................ 33 Suspension.................................................... 188
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT............. 34 Gearing.......................................................... 194
Periodic Maintenance Chart .......................... 34 Special Care According to Track Conditions . 195
Engine Oil...................................................... 39 OPTIONAL PARTS .......................................... 196
Cooling System ............................................. 44 PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE
Spark Plug ..................................................... 48 MAINTENANCE ............................................ 197
Air Cleaner .................................................... 55 STORAGE........................................................ 199
Throttle Cable................................................ 61 Before Storage .............................................. 199
Throttle Body Assy ........................................ 62 After Storage ................................................. 200
Clutch ............................................................ 72 ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION.................. 201
Valve Clearance ............................................ 82 WIRING DIAGRAM .......................................... 202
Exhaust System ............................................ 88
8 SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
DIMENSIONS
Overall Length 2 195 mm (86.42 in.)
Overall Width 820 mm (32.3 in.)
Overall Height 1 275 mm (50.20 in.)
Wheelbase 1 495 mm (58.86 in.)
Road Clearance 340 mm (13.4 in.)
Curb Mass 112.1 kg (247 lb)
Fuel Tank Capacity 6.2 L (1.6 US gal)
ENGINE
Type 4-stroke, DOHC, single-cylinder, liquid-cooled
Bore × Stroke 96.0 × 62.1 mm (3.78 × 2.44 in.)
Displacement 449 cm³ (27.4 cu in.)
Compression Ratio 12.8:1
Fuel System FI (Fuel Injection)
Starting System Primary kick
Ignition System Digital DC-CDI
Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @2 000 r/min (rpm)
Lubrication System Forced lubrication (semi-dry sump)
Spark Plug NGK CPR8EB-9
Spark Plug Terminal Solid-post
SPECIFICATIONS 9
TRANSMISSION
Transmission Type 5-speed, constant-mesh, return shift
Clutch Type Wet, multi disc
Driving System Chain drive
Gear Ratio:
1st 1.750 (28/16)
2nd 1.412 (24/17)
3rd 1.188 (19/16)
4th 1.000 (19/19)
5th 0.875 (21/24)
Primary Reduction Ratio 2.727 (60/22)
Final Reduction Ratio 3.846 (50/13)
Overall Drive Ratio 9.178 @Top gear
Engine Oil:
Type API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2
Viscosity SAE 10W-40
Capacity 1.2 L (1.3 US qt)
FRAME
Type Tubular, semi-double cradle
Steering Angle 42° to either side
Caster 27.9°
Trail 120 mm (4.72 in.)
10 SPECIFICATIONS
Tire Size/Type:
Front 80/100-21 51M/BRIDGESTONE M403
Rear 120/80-19 63M/BRIDGESTONE M404
Rim Size:
Front 21 × 1.60
Rear 19 × 2.15
Suspension:
Front Telescopic fork (upside-down)
Rear New Uni-trak® swingarm
Front Suspension Travel 314 mm (12.4 in.)
Rear Wheel Travel 315 mm (12.4 in.)
Front Fork Oil:
Type Kawasaki Fork Oil SS19
Amount:
Left Front Fork:
Cylinder Unit 310 mL (10.5 US oz.)
Outer Tube 340 mL (11.5 US oz.)
Right Front Fork:
Cylinder Unit 100 mL (3.38 US oz.)
Outer Tube 300 mL (10.1 US oz.)
Balance Chamber 10 mL (0.34 US oz.)
SPECIFICATIONS 11
BRAKES
Type:
Front Single disc
Rear Single disc
Specifications are subject to change without notice.

12 GENERAL INFORMATION
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Location of Labels
All warning labels which are on your vehicle are
repeated here. Read labels on your vehicle and un-
derstand them thoroughly. They contain information
which is important for your safety and the safety of
anyone else who may operate your vehicle. There-
fore, it is very important that all warning labels be on
your vehicle in the locations shown. If any label is
missing, damaged, or worn, get a replacement from
your Kawasaki dealer and install it in the correct po-
sition.
NOTE
1. Brake Fluid (Front)
The sample warning labels in this section have
part numbers to help you and your dealer obtain
the correct replacement.
GENERAL INFORMATION 13
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2. Brake Fluid (Rear)

3. Radiator Cap Danger
4. Rear Shock Absorber Warning
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5. Noise Emission Control Information

6. Important Information
7. Disclaimer of Warranty
8. Front Fork Warning
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1) 3)
2) 4)
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5) 7)
6) 8)
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Location of Parts
1. Clutch Lever 5. Fuel Tank Cap

2. Engine Stop Button 6. Front Brake Fluid Reservoir
3. Launch Control Mode Button 7. Front Brake Lever
4. Orange Launch Control Mode/FI Warning 8. Throttle Grip
Indicator Light
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1. Front Fork 8. Brake Caliper

2. Radiator 9. Shift Pedal
3. Fuel Tank 10. Footpeg
4. Throttle Body Assy 11. Rear Shock Absorber
5. Seat 12. Drive Chain
6. Air Cleaner Element 13. Chain Guide
7. Brake Disc 14. Swingarm
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1. Muffler 6. Uni-Trak® Tie-Rod and Rocker Arm

2. Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir 7. Rear Brake Pedal
3. Rear Shock Absorber Gas Reservoir 8. Oil Level Inspection Window
4. Kick Pedal 9. Exhaust Pipe
5. DFI Setting Data Selection Connector
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NOTE
Side Stand Support the motorcycle with a suitable stand to
perform maintenance or adjustment procedures.
To install the side stand, insert its flat end into the
rear axle as shown in the figure.
A. Side Stand
B. Rear Axle
WARNING
Riding with the side stand can cause a crash
resulting in injury. Do not start the engine or
attempt to ride the motorcycle when the side
stand is installed.
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Avoid filling the tank in the rain or where heavy dust
Fuel is blowing so that the fuel does not get contaminated.
This Kawasaki KX has a 4-stroke engine that re-

quires a gasoline.
The capacity of the fuel tank is 6.2 L (1.6 US gal).
To open the fuel tank cap, pull out the breather hose
from the hole in the steering stem, and turn the tank
cap counterclockwise.
A. Tank Cap
B. Fuel Tank
C. Top Level
D. Filler Neck
A. Fuel Tank Cap

B. Breather Hose
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WARNING Octane Rating Method
Minimum
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be Rating
explosive under certain conditions. Always (RON + MON)
stop the engine and do not smoke. Make Antiknock Index 90
2
sure the area is well-ventilated and free from
any source of flame or sparks; this includes
any appliance with a pilot light. Never fill NOTICE
the tank so the fuel level rises into the filler
neck. If the tank is overfilled, heat may cause If engine “knocking” or “pinging” occurs,
the fuel to expand and overflow through the use a different brand of gasoline of a higher
vents in the tank cap. After refueling, make octane rating.
sure the fuel tank cap is closed securely. If If this condition is allowed to continue it can
gasoline is spilled on the fuel tank, wipe it off lead to severe engine damage.
immediately. Gasoline quality is important. Fuels of low
quality or not meeting standard industry
specifications may result in unsatisfactory
Fuel Requirement: performance. Operating problems that result
from the use of poor quality or nonrecom-
Fuel Type mended fuel may not be covered under your
Use clean, fresh unleaded gasoline with an Anti- warranty.
knock index equal to or higher than that shown in
the table. The Antiknock Index is posted on service
station pumps in Canada and the U.S.A. The octane Fuels Containing Oxygenates
rating of a gasoline is a measure of its resistance Gasoline frequently contains oxygenates (alco-
to detonation or “knocking”. The Antiknock Index is hols and ethers) especially in areas of Canada and
an average of the Research Octane Number (RON) the U.S. which are required to sell such reformu-
and the Motor Octane Number (MON) as shown in lated fuels as part of a strategy to reduce exhaust
the table below. emissions.
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The types and volume of fuel oxygenates ap- NOTICE
proved for use in unleaded gasoline by the Cana-
Never use gasoline with an octane rat-
dian Environmental Protection Agency include a
ing lower than the minimum specified by
broad range of alcohols and ethers, but only two
Kawasaki.
components have seen any significant level of com-
Never use “gasohol” with more than 10%
mercial use.
ethanol, or more than 5% methanol. Gaso-
Gasoline/Alcohol Blends - Gasoline containing up
line containing methanol must also be
to 10% ethanol (alcohol produced from agricultural
blended with cosolvents and corrosion
products such as corn), also known as “gasohol” is
inhibitors.
approved for use.
Certain ingredients of gasoline may cause
NOTICE paint fading or damage. Be extra careful
not to spill gasoline or gasoline oxygenate
Avoid using blends of unleaded gasoline and blends during refueling.
methanol (wood alcohol) whenever possible, When not operating your Kawasaki for 30
and never use “gasohol” containing more to 60 days, mix a fuel stabilizer (such as
than 5% methanol. Fuel system damage and STA-BIL) with the gasoline in the fuel tank.
performance problems may result. Fuel stabilizer additives inhibit oxidation of
the fuel which minimizes gummy deposits.
Gasoline/Ether Blends - The most common ether Never store this product with “gasohol” in
is methyl tertiary butyl ether (MTBE). You may use the fuel system. Before storage it is recom-
gasoline containing up to 15% MTBE. mended that you drain all fuel from the fuel
NOTE system. See the Storage section in this man-
ual.
Other oxygenates approved for use in unleaded
gasoline include TAME (up to 16.7%) and ETBE
(up to 17.2%). Fuel containing these oxygenates
can also be used in your Kawasaki.
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Kick Pedal Starting the Engine
This motorcycle is equipped with a primary kick
starting system. When the clutch lever is pulled, the
• Shift the transmission into neutral.
motorcycle can be started with the transmission in WARNING
any gear. Riding with the side stand can cause a crash
resulting in injury. Do not start the engine or
attempt to ride the motorcycle when the side
stand is installed.
NOTICE
This motorcycle is designed for competition
use only. Therefore, the radiator does not
incorporate a coolant reserve tank or cool-
ing fan. Prolonged idling of the engine with
no airflow through the radiator can cause
coolant loss and engine overheating result-
ing in possible engine damage. Any riding
conditions that increase engine temperature
A. Kick Pedal will further reduce idling time before coolant
loss occurs. These conditions include high
ambient temperature, sandy or muddy ter-
rain, or other conditions causing high engine
loads at low speeds. Furthermore, warming
the engine up excessively before operation,
or leaving idling with the hot engine temper-
ature after operation results in the engine
overheating, too.
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When engine is cold When engine is already warm or restarts
•Pull out the idle adjusting screw/choke knob. •Kick the engine over, leaving the throttle closed
without using the idle adjusting screw/choke knob.
NOTE
If the engine fails starting, open the throttle fully
and depress the kick pedal slowly about 4 ∼ 5
times to clear too rich fuel mixtures in the engine.
Then, kick the engine over, leaving the throttle
closed.
A. Idle Adjusting Screw/Choke Knob
• Find the kick pedal position around the top so that

the resistance to depress the kick pedal is fully felt
by pushing down the kick pedal slowly.
• Kick the engine over, leaving the throttle closed.
NOTE
When the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can
be started with the transmission in any gear.
• Even after the engine has started, do not push

back immediately the idle adjusting screw/choke
knob until the engine is thoroughly warmed up.
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Launch Control Mode
• When shifting into 3rd, the system is deactivated
automatically.
The launch control mode can be used to adjust ig-

nition timing to help riders get better starts on slip-
pery terrain.
The system’s effectiveness is dependent on rider
skill, technique and terrain conditions.
Launch Control Mode Setting
• The launch control mode can be set when the en-
gine is running and in neutral, 1st or 2nd gear.
When activated, it only functions in 1st and 2nd
gear.
• When pushing the launch control mode button for
over two seconds, the orange launch control mode
indicator light will blink to indicate the system is
operating. A. Launch Control Mode Button
B. Orange Launch Control Mode/FI Warning
Indicator Light
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NOTE
DFI Setting Data Selection If the connector is changed while the engine is
running, the DFI setting does not change.
Three DFI settings are available to suit various The ECU is set to the standard track condition
track conditions. They are easily activated by chang- when operated without a connector. However, al-
ing the wiring connector on the side of the frame ways have one of the three connectors attached
when the engine is stopped. when riding to prevent dust and mud from accu-
Track Condition Connector Color mulating in the connector harness.
The KX FI calibration kit (Part/No.: 99999-0394)
Soft White can be used for changing the DFI setting.
Standard Green
Hard Black
• Change the connector on the right front of the

frame to suit the track condition with the engine
stopped.
A. Connector
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Shifting Gears
This motorcycle is equipped with a 5-speed “return
shift” transmission. The neutral is located halfway
between 1st and 2nd gear. “Return shift” means
that when shifting up or down, each gear must be
engaged before the next higher or lower gear may
be selected.
• To engage first gear from the neutral position, pull
in the clutch lever and push down on the shift
pedal, gently release the clutch lever, then release
the shift pedal.
• To shift up to the next gear, pull in the clutch lever,
lift the shift pedal with your toes, gently release the A. Shift Pedal
clutch lever, and then release the shift pedal.
• To shift down to the next gear, pull in the clutch
lever, push the shift pedal down as far as it will go,
gently release the clutch lever, then release the
shift pedal.
NOTICE
When changing gears, press firmly on the
shift pedal to ensure proper shifting. Care-
less, incomplete shifting can cause the
transmission to jump out of gear and lead to
engine damage.
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Stopping the Motorcycle Stopping the Engine
For maximum deceleration, close the throttle and • Shift thethetransmission into the neutral position.
apply both front and rear brakes. Pull in the clutch
lever as the motorcycle comes to a stop. Indepen-
• Close
stop button.
throttle completely and push the engine
dent use of the front or rear brake may be advanta-

geous in certain circumstances. Shift down progres-
sively to ensure good engine response at all speeds.
A. Engine Stop Button

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5. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be
Break-In sure to fully check the tightness of nuts and
bolts, oil leakage, coolant leakage and any ir-
A brief break-in procedure must be carried out to regularities, especially, each cable elongation,
obtain the proper operating clearances in the engine brake play, chain slack and spoke tightness.
and transmission, which are necessary for perfor- 6. Change the engine oil, oil filter and front
mance and reliability. fork/rear shock absorber oil to the new one.
7. After the break-in procedure has been properly
NOTICE carried out, the motorcycle is ready for regular
For the first hour or 20 km (12 mile) of op- operation. Using the proper riding skills and
eration, run the engine at low and moderate techniques and avoiding recklessly high engine
engine speeds. See details below. speeds will keep the engine trouble-free.
Break in the engine as follows.

NOTICE
1. Start the engine and let it idle until it is thor- When any following parts have been re-
oughly warmed up. placed, the same break-in procedure as the
2. Ride the motorcycle for about 20 minutes within new motorcycle must be carried out for one
1/2 throttle opening. hour or 20 km (12 mile):
3. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be Cylinder, Piston, Piston pin, Piston ring,
sure to check the tightness of nuts and bolts, Valve, Valve lifter, Camshaft, Crankshaft,
oil leakage, and any irregularities. Mission gear, etc.
4. Start the engine and ride the motorcycle for
about 40 minutes within 3/4 throttle opening.
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Daily Pre-Ride Checks
Check the following items each day before you ride. The time required is minimal, and habitual performance
of these checks will help ensure a safe, reliable ride.
If any irregularities are found during these checks, refer to the appropriate section and take the action required
to return the motorcycle to a safe operating condition.
WARNING
Failure to perform these checks before operation may result in serious damage or an accident. Al-
ways perform daily checks before operation.
DANGER
Exhaust gas contains carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless poisonous gas. Inhaling carbon
monoxide can cause serious brain injury or death. DO NOT run the engine in enclosed areas. Op-
erate only in a well-ventilated area.
Engine
Engine Oil .................................... No leakage
Level correct
Coolant ........................................ No leakage
Level correct (engine cold)
Radiator Cap ............................... Properly installed
Spark Plug ................................... Correctly torqued
Cylinder Head Cover ................... Correctly torqued
Clutch .......................................... Functions properly
Air Cleaner .................................. Clean
Apply oil to air cleaner element
Properly installed
Muffler ......................................... No damage
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Properly installed
Engine Sprocket .......................... No wear or damage
Frame
Tires ............................................ Overall condition good
No wear or damage
Pressure correct
Air valve cap installed
Spokes ........................................ No looseness
Drive Chain ................................. Overall condition good
Chain slack correct
Oil if necessary
Front and Rear Brakes ................ Function properly
Lever and pedal play correct
No fluid leakage
Throttle ........................................ Functions properly
Throttle grip returns smoothly
Steering ....................................... Smooth but not loose from lock to lock
No binding due to control cables
Front Fork .................................... Functions properly
No oil leakage
Air pressure correct
Rear Shock Absorber .................. Functions properly
No oil leakage
Fuel Tank ..................................... Mounted securely
No fuel leakage
Rear Sprocket ............................. No wear or damage
Engine Stop Button ..................... Functions properly
Launch Control Mode Button ...... Functions properly
Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners ................. Properly tightened
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After-Race Checks
After racing, first clean the motorcycle, then in-
spect the entire motorcycle with special attention to
the air cleaner, brakes, etc.
Carry out the general lubrication and make neces-
sary adjustments.
34 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

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Periodic Maintenance Chart
The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accor-
dance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.
1. Periodic Inspection (Engine Related Item)
FREQUENCY After each Every 3 Every 6 Every 12
As See
race (or races (or races (or races (or
required Page
OPERATION 2.5 hours) 7.5 hours) 15 hours) 30 hours)
Throttle cable - inspect and adjust • 61
Valve clearance - inspect † • 82
Clutch plates - inspect † • 76
Spark plug - clean and inspect † • 48
Clutch - inspect • 72
Air cleaner element - clean † • 57
Throttle body assy - inspect and adjust • 62
K Cylinder head, cylinder - inspect • –
K Crankshaft - inspect • –
Muffler - clean and inspect † • 88
Kick pedal and shift pedal - clean • –
Engine sprocket - inspect † • 97
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT 35

As See
required Page
OPERATION 2.5 hours) 7.5 hours) 15 hours) 30 hours) j
Coolant level - inspect • 44
Breather hose - inspect • –
Water hoses and connections - inspect † • 44
2. Periodic Inspection (Chassis Related Item)
As See
j race (or races (or races (or races (or
required Page
Brake - adjust † • 102
Brake pad wear - inspect † • 105
Brake fluid level - inspect † • 103
Spoke tightness and rim runout - inspect
† • 161
Rear axle nut - inspect † • 92

Drive chain - inspect and adjust • 92
Drive chain - lubricate • 97
Drive chain wear - inspect † • 94
Front fork - clean and inspect • 108
Nuts, bolts, fasteners - inspect † • 165
K Fuel system - clean • –
Fuel hose, connections - inspect † • 164
Brake hoses, connections - inspect † • 164
Steering play - inspect † • 106
K Steering stem bearing - lubricate • –
Rear sprocket - inspect † • 97
General lubrication - perform • 171

As See
required Page
OPERATION 2.5 hours) 7.5 hours) 15 hours) 30 hours) j
K Wheel bearing - inspect † • –
Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkage pivots
K
- inspect † • –
Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkage pivots

K
- lubricate • –
Frame - inspect • –
Wheels/tires - inspect • 161
Rear shock absorber - inspect • 155
Cable - inspect • –
3. Periodic Replacement (Engine and Chassis Related Item)
See
j race (or races (or races (or races (or
Page
Engine oil - change • 40
Oil filter - replace • 40
K Piston and piston ring - replace • –
K Piston pin - replace • –
Silencer wool - replace • 88
Spark plug - replace • 48
K Brake fluid - change Every 2 years –
Brake master cylinder cup and dust cover - –
K Every 2 years
replace
K Brake caliper fluid seal and dust seal - replace Every 2 years –
K Brake hoses - replace Every 4 years –
Front fork oil - change • 114
K Fuel hose - replace Every 5 years –
K Rear shock absorber oil - change • –
†: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.

K: Should be serviced by referring to the Service Manual or an authorized Kawasaki dealer.
NOTICE
Engine Oil Racing the engine before the oil reaches ev-
In order for the engine, transmission and clutch
ery part can cause engine seizure. j
to function properly, maintain the engine oil at the
proper level, and change the oil and oil filter period- Oil Level Inspection
ically.
Not only do dirt and metal particles collect in the
• Ifsitthea few
oil has just been changed, let the motorcycle
minutes allowing the oil to settle.
oil, but the oil itself loses its lubricative quality if used
too long.
• Start the engine and run it for several minutes at
idle speed. Do not run the engine at high en-
gine speed.
WARNING • Stop the engine and wait several minutes for the
oil to settle.
Motorcycle operation with insufficient, de-
teriorated, or contaminated engine oil will • Check the engine oil level with the motorcycle ver-
tical through the oil level inspection window on the
cause accelerated wear and may result in en-
gine or transmission seizure, accident, and lower right side of the engine. The oil level should
injury. Check the oil level before each ride come up between the high and low level lines next
and change the oil according to the periodic to the oil level inspection window.
maintenance chart in the Owner’s Manual. NOTE
Because of the semi-dry sump lubrication system, If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil
the engine oil level indicated on the oil level inspec- using a syringe or other suitable device.
tion window will fluctuate depending on the motorcy- If the oil level is too low, add the correct amount
cle’s position and engine speed when the engine’s of oil through the oil filler opening. Use oil of the
shut off. To ensure a proper reading of the engine same type and brand as those of the one that is
oil level, follow the Oil Level Inspection procedures already in the engine.
closely.
NOTE Oil and/or Oil Filter Change
If no oil appears in the oil level inspection window, The engine oil and/or oil filter should be changed
tip the motorcycle slightly to the right until oil is periodically to ensure long engine life.
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visible then return to an upright position. If no oil • Warm up the engine thoroughly so that the oil will
pick up any sediment and drain easily.
appears even when tipped at an extreme angle,
remove the drain bolts to empty any oil that may • Stop the engine, and place a container beneath it.
be in the transmission and crankcase, reinstall the • Remove the oil filler plug.
drain bolts and refill with the specified amount of • Remove the oil drain bolts and position the vehicle
perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oil to
oil.
drain.
A. Oil Level Inspection Window A. Drain Bolt (M6)

B. High Level Line B. Drain Bolt (M10)
C. Low Level Line
D. Oil Filler Plug
WARNING • Be sure to install the spring on the original position.

Engine oil is a toxic substance. Dispose of
used oil properly. Contact your local author- j
ities for approved disposal methods or pos-
sible recycling.
• When the oil filter is replaced, remove the oil filter

cap bolts and take off the cap with O-rings.
A. Spring
• Replace the oil filter element with a new one.

• Apply grease
Replace the O-rings with new ones.
• Install the oil filter
to the grommet.
• ward the oil filter cap.
element with the grommet to-
A. Oil Filter Cap Bolts NOTICE

B. Oil Filter Cap
Inside-out installation stop oil flow, causing
engine seizure.
• Install the oil filter cap with the grease applied to

the new O-rings and tighten its bolts to the speci-
Tightening Torque
Engine Oil Drain Bolt (M10):
fied torque. 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
j
Engine Oil Drain Bolt (M6):
7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
NOTE
Replace the gasket and O-rings with new ones.
• Fill the engine up to the high level line with good

quality engine oil specified in the table.
Recommended Engine Oil
Castrol “Power1 Racing 4T” 5W-40 or
“Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke Full Synthetic
Oil*” 10W-40 or
“Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke
A. Oil Filter Element Semi-Synthetic Oil*” 10W-40 or
B. Grommet “Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke Motorcycle
C. O-rings Oil*” 10W-40
Tightening Torque *Kawasaki Performance Oils and Lubricants have

been specifically engineered for your vehicle. Con-
Oil Filter Cap Bolts:
sistent use of these products meets or exceeds war-
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
ranty and service requirements and can help to ex-
tend the life of your Kawasaki.
• After the oil has completely drained out, install the
drain bolts with their new gaskets. Proper torque Engine Oil Capacity
for they are shown in the table. Capacity:
0.96 L (1.01 US qt) (When filter is not removed)
0.98 L (1.04 US qt) (When filter is removed)
1.20 L (1.27 US qt) (When engine is completely
dry)
NOTE The oil viscosity may need to be changed to ac-

If unavailable, use equivalent engine oil in accor- commodate atmospheric conditions in your riding
dance with the following table. area.
j
Type:
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1
or MA2
Viscosity:
SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50
NOTE
Do not add any chemical additive to the oil. Oils
fulfilling the above requirements are fully formu-
lated and provide adequate lubrication for both the
engine and the clutch.
• Tighten the oil filler plug.

Tightening Torque
Oil Filler Plug:
3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
• Start the engine.

• Check the oil level and oil leakage.
WARNING
Cooling System The cooling system can get extremely hot
j during normal operation and cause serious
Water Hoses burns. Do not touch the radiator when it is
Check the water hoses for cracks or deterioration, hot, nor open the radiator cap. Hot coolant
and the connections for looseness in accordance inside will cause severe burns.
with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
Radiator NOTE
Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or The coolant originally filled into the cooling sys-
mud. Clean off any obstructions with a low-pressure tem contains 50% of a permanent, ethylene-glycol
stream of water. -based antifreeze, has a freezing point of –35°C
(–31°F) and a green appearance.
NOTICE
Using high-pressure water, as from a car Coolant Level Inspection
wash facility, could damage the radiator fins • Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to the
ground until the radiator cap is level to the ground,
and impair the radiator’s effectiveness.
Do not obstruct or deflect airflow by in- so that the radiator cap is located uppermost
stalling unauthorized accessories in front of in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the
the radiator. radiator.
Interference with the cooling airflow can lead • Remove the radiator cap in two steps.
to overheating and consequent engine dam- • First, turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop
and wait there for a few seconds.
age.
Coolant
Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine
and transfers it to the air through the radiator. If
the coolant level becomes low, the engine overheats
and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant
level each day before riding the motorcycle, and re-
plenish coolant if the level is low.
• Then, push and turn the cap further in the same

direction and remove it.
j
A. Coolant Level
B. Filler Neck
A. Radiator Cap
• Ifradiator
the coolant level is low, add coolant through the
filler opening to the bottom of the filler
• Check the coolant level in the radiator. The
coolant should come up to the bottom of the neck.
radiator filler neck. Water and Antifreeze Mixing Ratio
NOTE 1:1 (water:antifreeze)
Check the coolant level when the engine is cold
(room or ambient temperature). Recommended Antifreeze
Permanent type of antifreeze (ethylene glycol
plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for
aluminum engines and radiators)
Coolant Total Amount

1.1 L (1.2 US qt)
• Install the radiator cap. NOTICE

Coolant Change Immediately wash away any coolant that
j The coolant should be changed to ensure long en- spills on the frame, engine, or wheel.
gine life, if necessary.
• Wait for the engine to cool completely.
WARNING
• Situate the motorcycle perpendicular to the
ground until the radiator cap is level to the ground. Coolant on tires will make them slippery
• Remove the radiator cap in two steps. and can cause loss of traction resulting in
• Drain the coolant from the engine and radiator in
the following way.
an accident and injury. Thoroughly clean
any coolant that might have splashed on the
• Place a container under the coolant drain bolt on
the water pump cover and remove the drain bolt.
tires.
• Visually inspect the old coolant.

• Ifparts
whitish cotton-like wafts are observed, aluminum
in the cooling system are corroded and the
system must be flushed.
• If the coolant is brown, iron or steel parts are rust-
ing and the system must be flushed.
• Check the cooling system for damage, loose con-
nections, and leaks.
• Install the coolant drain bolt with its new gasket
at the water pump cover and apply the specified
torque.
NOTE
Always replace a gasket with a new one.
A. Coolant Drain Bolt Tightening Torque
B. Water Pump Cover
Coolant Drain Bolt:
7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
• Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler

neck with coolant.
• Ifbottom
the coolant level is low, add coolant up to the
of the radiator filler neck.
• Lean the motorcycle slightly until the radiator filler • Check the radiator
Install the cap.
j
neck is level to the ground so that the filler neck
is located uppermost in order to exhaust the air
• cooling system for leaks.
accumulated in the radiator.

NOTICE
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors
made specifically for aluminum engines and
radiators in accordance with the instruction
of the manufacture. Soft or distilled water
must be used with the antifreeze in the cool-
ing system. If hard water is used in the sys-
tem, it causes scale accumulation in the wa-
ter passages, and considerably reduces the
efficiency of the cooling system.
NOTE
Pour in the coolant slowly so that it can expel the
air from the engine and radiator.
• Install the radiator cap.

• Start thetheengine
Check cooling system for leaks.
• stop it. and warm up thoroughly, then
• Check the coolant level after the engine has

cooled down. The coolant should come up to the
bottom of the radiator filler neck.
If the plug is oily or has carbon built up on it, clean
Spark Plug it. The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash
-point solvent and a nonmetal brush (nylon etc.). If
j The spark plug should be taken out periodically for the spark plug electrodes are corroded, or damaged,
inspection and regapping. Measure the gap with a or if the insulator is cracked, replace the plug. The
wire-type thickness gauge. If incorrect, adjust the standard spark plug is shown in the table below.
gap to the specified value by bending the outer elec- Standard Spark Plug
trode.
NGK CPR8EB-9
Spark Plug Gap
CPR8EB-9 To find out whether the plug’s heat range is correct,
0.8 ∼ 0.9 mm (0.03 ∼ 0.04 in.) remove the plug and examine the ceramic insulator
CPR9EB-9
around the center electrode. If the ceramic is light
brown, the spark plug correctly matches the engine
temperature.
If the ceramic is burned white, the plug should be
replaced with a colder plug.
Optional Spark Plug
Colder NGK CPR9EB-9
NOTE
If the engine performance drops, try replacing the
spark plug to regain performance.
A. Gap
B. Outer Electrode
Spark Plug Removal and Installation • Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt and band.
• Remove the seat (see Air Cleaner section).
• Remove the bolts and take off the radiator shroud
on both sides.
j
A. Fuel Tank Mounting Bolt

B. Band
A. Bolts
B. Radiator Shroud
• Be sure to place a piece of cloth around the fuel

hose joint.
WARNING
Fuel is flammable and explosive under cer-
j • Wipe off the dirt of the surface around the connec-
tion using a cloth or a soft brush.
tain conditions and can cause severe burns.
Be prepared for fuel spillage; any spilled
• Insert a thin blade screwdriver into the slit on the
joint lock.
fuel must be completely wiped up immedi-
ately. When the fuel hose is disconnected,
fuel spills out from the hose and the pipe
because of residual pressure. Cover the
hose connection with a piece of clean cloth
to prevent fuel spillage.
• Turn the driver to disconnect the joint lock.

• Disconnect the fuel hose joint from the outlet pipe.
A. Cloth
B. Thin Blade Screwdriver
C. Joint Lock
A. Turn
B. Joint Lock
C. Fuel Hose Joint
• Cover the pipe and the fuel hose joint with the vinyl
bags to keep them clean.
• Clean the cylinder head cover around the spark
plug cap hole before removing the spark plug.
• Disconnect the fuel pump lead connector. • Pull the spark plug cap off the plug before remov-
j
• Remove the fuel tank. ing the spark plug.
A. Fuel Pump Lead Connector A. Spark Plug Cap
WARNING • Loosen and remove the spark plug with a suitable

wrench (16 mm, 0.63 in.).
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be
explosive under certain conditions.
• When reinstalling the spark plug, torque it to spec-
ification.
Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Tightening Torque
Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free
Spark Plug:
from any source of flame or sparks; this in-
13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 115 in·lb)
cludes any appliance with a pilot light.
• Install the spark plug cap so that it is aligned with

the line on the cylinder head cover.
• Make sure that the dampers are in place on the
frame and are not damaged. If the dampers are
j • Pull up the plug cap lightly to make sure of the
installation of the spark plug cap.
not fixed completely, reattach them with an adhe-
sive. If the dampers are damaged, replace them
with new ones.
A. Spark Plug Cap

B. Line A. Dampers
• Check the joint lock for deformation and wear.

• Ifwiththeajoint lock is deformed, replace the fuel hose
new one.
• Apply engine oil to the fuel outlet pipe lightly.
• Insert the fuel hose joint straight onto the fuel out-
let pipe until the hose joint clicks.
• Push and pull the fuel hose joint back and forth
more than two times, and make sure it is locked
• Push the joint lock until the hose joint clicks. and does not come off.
j
A. Fuel Hose Joint A. Fuel Hose Joint

B. Joint Lock B. Push and Pull
NOTICE WARNING
When installing the fuel hose joint, do not Leaking fuel can cause a fire or explosion
apply strong force to the outlet pipe on the resulting in serious burns. Make sure the
fuel pump. The pipe made from resin could hose joint is installed correctly on the deliv-
be damaged. ery pipe by sliding the joint.
NOTE
If it comes off, reinstall the fuel hose joint.
• Run the fuel pump lead over the fuel hose.

• Before installing the fuel tank, check that both

throttle cables run over the main harness.
• Temporarily tighten the radiator shroud bolts fol-
lowing the tightening sequence.
j NOTE
To prevent the bottom of the fuel tank from pushing
the throttle cables, run the throttle cables over the
main harness correctly.
• Hook the band to the fuel tank.

• After installing
Tighten the fuel tank mounting bolt.
• throttle cables the(outer)
fuel tank, make sure that both
move slightly by pulling
them back and forth in the upper space of the
right side of the fuel tank. Check that both throttle
cables run under the frame (right side) as shown
in the figure.
• Tighten the radiator shroud bolts.

Tightening Torque
Radiator Shroud Bolts:
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
• Install the removed parts.

NOTE
Insert the fuel tank breather hose outlet end into
the steering stem hole.
A. Throttle Cables
B. Fuel Tank
C. Bottom of the Frame (Right Side)
NOTE
Air Cleaner In dusty areas, the element should be cleaned
more frequently than recommended interval. j
A clogged air cleaner restricts the air intake, in- After riding through rain or on muddy roads, the
creases fuel consumption, reduces engine power, element should be cleaned immediately.
and can cause spark plug fouling. Inspect the air
intake system, which includes the air filter and air Element Removal and Inspection
duct to the throttle body assy, and the duct clamps
and throttle body assy, before each race or practice • Remove the bolts on the both sides.
session.
WARNING
If dirt or dust is allowed to pass through into
the throttle body assembly, the throttle may
become stuck, possibly causing accident.
Be sure to keep the dust from entering dur-
ing cleaning.
NOTICE
A clogged air cleaner will affect fuel mixture
to the engine and reduce engine power and
cause spark plug fouling. A. Bolt
• Open the both side covers slightly outward and

slide the seat rearward.
• Remove
element.
the wing bolt, and take out the air cleaner
A. Side Covers A. Wing Bolt

B. Seat B. Air Cleaner Element
• Check inside of the intake tract and throttle body

assy for dirt. If dirty, clean the intake tract and
throttle body assy thoroughly.
• Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the throttle body
assy to keep dirt from entering the throttle body
assy.
• Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing with
a clean, damp towel.
• Take the element off its frame.
NOTICE
Do not twist or wring the element, as it gets
easily torn or damaged.
• Inspect the element. If it is dirty, clean it. Also

check if the element is in good condition (no tears,
hardening or shrinkage). If damaged, replace the
element or it will allow dirt into the throttle body
j
assy.
WARNING
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust
to enter the throttle body assembly and the
throttle may stick resulting in a hazardous
operating condition. Clean the air cleaner ac-
cording to the periodic maintenance chart;
more often if the motorcycle is used in ex-
tremely dusty conditions.
A. Air Cleaner Element
B. Element Frame
NOTICE
Element Cleaning and Installation
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust
to enter the engine, causing it to wear exces- • Clean the element in a bath of a high flash-point
solvent or hot soapy water. Rinse the element with
sively or to become damaged. clear water to remove all traces of the cleaning
solution.
• Squeeze the element dry in a clean towel.
NOTICE
Do not twist, wring or blow the element dry
to avoid damaging it.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can
j be flammable and/or explosive and cause
severe burns. Clean the element in a
well-ventilated area, and take care that
there is no spark or flame anywhere near the
working areas. Do not use gasoline or low
flash-point solvents to clean the element.
• After cleaning, let the filter dry completely. Satu-

rate the element with a high-quality foam air fil-
ter oil and make sure that the oil is evenly ap-
plied throughout the element. Squeeze out the ex-
cess oil, but do not wring the element as this could
cause tearing. In this case, too much oil is better
than too little. Finally pat the inside of the element
with a paper towel to remove any excess oil.
• Before installation, check the element for damage
such as tears, hardening, or shrinkage. If dam-
aged, replace the element.
• Apply grease to all mating surfaces and to the
screw hole in the air cleaner housing and intake
tract.
• Remove the towel from the throttle body assy.
• Install the element onto its frame, and coat the
element lip and lip seat with a thick layer of all
-purpose grease to assure a complete seal.
• Install the air cleaner element so that its tab faces

upward and its projections align with the holes in
the housing.
j
A. Apply grease.
A. Tab
B. Projections
C. Holes
• Tighten the wing bolt.

• Insert the hooks of the seat under the flange collar

and brackets.
• Install the tabs of the side covers into the inside of
the seat, and tighten the bolts.
j
A. Hooks A. Tabs
B. Seat B. Seat
C. Flange Collar
D. Brackets • Pull up the rear end of the seat to make sure it is
securely installed.
Throttle Cable
j
Throttle Cable Adjustment
Inspect the throttle grip for smooth operation in
all steering positions. Check and adjust the throttle
cable in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance
Chart.
• Check that the throttle grip has 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼
0.12 in.) of play and turns smoothly.
A. Locknut
B. Adjuster
• With the engine idling, turn the handlebar both

ways and check if handlebar movement changes
the idle speed. If so, the throttle cable may be
improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or dam-
aged. Be sure to correct any of these conditions
before riding.
WARNING
A. Throttle Grip Operation with improperly adjusted, incor-
B. 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.) rectly routed, or damaged cables could re-
sult in an unsafe riding condition. Be sure
• Ifupper
the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the
end of the throttle cable and turn the ad-
the control cables are adjusted and routed
correctly, and are free from damage.
juster to obtain the specified play. Then, tighten
the locknut toward the adjuster.
Throttle Body Assy

• With the engine idling, turn the handlebar both
ways and check if handlebar movement changes
the idle speed. If so, the throttle cable may be im-
j properly adjusted, incorrectly routed, or damaged.
Idle Speed Adjustment Be sure to correct any of these conditions before
• Remove
section).
the left radiator shroud (see Spark Plug
riding.
• Thoroughly warm up the engine.

WARNING
• the idle speedadjusting
Turn the idle screw/choke knob to adjust
1 950 ∼ 2 050 r/min (rpm) by using Operation with damaged cables could result
the engine revolution tester (The tester should be in an unsafe riding condition. Replace dam-
followed by the method described by the manufac- aged control cables before operation.
ture.).
NOTICE
This motorcycle’s radiator does not incorpo-
rate cooling fan. Prolonged idling of the en-
gine with no airflow through the radiator can
cause coolant loss and engine overheating
resulting in possible engine damage. Any
riding conditions that increase engine tem-
perature will further reduce idling time be-
fore coolant loss occurs. These conditions
include high ambient temperature, sandy or
muddy terrain, or other conditions causing
high engine loads at low speeds. Further-
more, warming the engine up excessively be-
A. Idle Adjusting Screw/Choke Knob
fore operation, or leaving idling with the hot
B. Tester engine temperature after operation results in
the engine overheating, too.
• Open and close the throttle a few times to make
sure the idle speed does not change, and readjust
if necessary. Cleaning the Throttle Body Assy
• Remove the seat (see Air Cleaner section).
• Remove the fuel tank (see Spark Plug section). • Remove

Loosen the muffler clamp bolt.
• both sides.the bolt and take off the side cover on
Remove • the mufflerthebody
muffler mounting bolts, and pull out
backward.
j
A. Bolt A. Muffler Clamp Bolt

B. Side Cover B. Muffler Mounting Bolts
C. Muffler Body
• Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp screw. • nector.

Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor con-
A. Air Cleaner Duct Clamp Screw

A. Intake Air Temperature Sensor Connector
• Remove the rear frame mounting bolts on the both • Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.
sides. • tor.
Disconnect the intake air pressure sensor connec-
• Pull the rear frame rearward with the air cleaner
j
housing. • Disconnect the fuel injector connector.
A. Rear Frame Mounting Bolts A. Throttle Sensor Connector

B. Air Cleaner Housing B. Intake Air Pressure Sensor Connector
C. Fuel Injector Connector
• Be sure to place a piece of cloth around the fuel • Turn the driver to disconnect the joint lock.
hose joint. • pipe.
Disconnect the fuel hose joint from the delivery
j • Wipe off the dirt of the surface around the connec-
tion using a cloth or a soft brush.
• Insert a thin blade screwdriver into the slit on the
joint lock.
A. Turn
B. Joint Lock
C. Fuel Hose Joint
A. Cloth
B. Thin Blade Screwdriver • Cover the pipe and the fuel hose joint with the vinyl
bags to keep them clean.
C. Joint Lock
• Pull
Loosen the throttle body assy holder clamp screw. • Remove the bolts, and take off the throttle pulley
• the throttle body assy from the holder. cover.
j
A. Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Screw A. Throttle Pulley Cover Bolts
B. Throttle Pulley Cover
• Loosen the decelerator cable bolt locknut, and

free the tip of cable lower end.
• Loosen the accelerator cable bolt, and free the tip
of cable lower end.
• Ifthrottle
any carbon accumulates, wipe the carbon off the
bore and the throttle valve, using a lint-free
cloth penerated with a high flash-point solvent.
j
A. Decelerator Cable Bolt Locknut

B. Accelerator Cable Bolt
C. Tips of Throttle Cable Lower Ends
D. Throttle Pulley
E. Accelerator Cable A. Throttle Bore
F. Decelerator Cable
NOTICE
NOTICE If dirt gets through into the engine, exces-
Never drop the throttle body assy especially sive engine wear and possibly engine dam-
on a hard surface. Such a shock to the body age will occur.
assy can damage it.
• Lubricate the lower ends of the throttle cables.
• After removing the throttle body assy, cover the
throttle body assy holder and air cleaner duct with
• throttle pulley.
Install the tip of accelerator cable lower end to the
a clean cloth to protect them from dirt. • Install the accelerator cable so that the position of
• Clean the throttle body assy. the claw of the washer is as shown.
• Check the throttle bore at the throttle valve for car-
bon deposits by opening the throttle valve.
• Install the tip of decelerator cable lower end to the
throttle pulley.
• While holding the decelerator cable bolt, tighten

the cable bolt locknut.
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incor-
Tightening Torque rectly routed, or damaged cables could re- j
Throttle Cable Mounting Bolts: sult in an unsafe riding condition. Be sure
3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m, 27 in·lb) the control cables are adjusted and routed
Throttle Pulley Cover Bolts: correctly, and are free from damage.
3.4 N·m (0.35 kgf·m, 30 in·lb)
• Install the throttle body assy to the throttle body
assy holder. Align the projection with the groove.
• Check the throttle body assy is installed securely.
A. Accelerator Cable
B. Claw
C. Decelerator Cable Bolt A. Groove
D. Decelerator Cable Bolt Locknut B. Projection
• Check the joint lock for deformation and wear.

• Ifwiththeajoint lock is deformed, replace the fuel hose
new one.
• Apply engine oil to the fuel delivery pipe lightly.
• Insert
pipe.
the fuel hose joint straight onto the delivery • Push and pull the fuel hose joint back and forth
more than two times, and make sure it is locked
j • Check the white paint of the hose in the throttle
body assy side.
and does not come off.
• Push the joint lock until the hose joint clicks.
A. Fuel Hose Joint

B. Push and Pull
A. Fuel Hose Joint
B. White Paint WARNING
C. Joint Lock
Leaking fuel can cause a fire or explosion
resulting in serious burns. Make sure the
NOTICE hose joint is installed correctly on the deliv-
When installing the fuel hose joint, do not ery pipe by sliding the joint.
apply strong force to the delivery pipe on the
throttle body assy. The pipe made from resin NOTE
could be damaged.
If it comes off, reinstall the fuel hose joint.
• Connect the intake air pressure sensor connector,

fuel injector connector and throttle sensor connec-
• Install the rear frame with the air cleaner housing
to the throttle body assy.
tor. • Check the duct is installed securely.
j
• Check the clamp position as shown in the figure.
A. Intake Air Pressure Sensor Connector

B. Fuel Injector Connector A. Clamp
C. Throttle Sensor Connector
• Tighten the air cleaner duct clamp screw securely.
• to the specified
Tighten the throttle body assy holder clamp screw
torque.
Tightening Torque
Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Screw:
2.0 N·m (0.20 kgf·m, 18 in·lb)
• Tighten the rear frame mounting bolts to the spec-

ified torque.
Tightening Torque
Rear Frame Mounting Bolts: Clutch
j 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
Clutch Lever Adjustment
• Install the fuel tank (see Spark Plug section). Proper clutch lever free play is 8 ∼ 13 mm (0.3 ∼
• Install the muffler (see Exhaust System section). 0.5 in.). Lever play increases with cable stretch and
• Open
Install the removed parts. friction plate wear, requiring periodic adjustment.
• sure theandgripclose the throttle a few times to make
operates correctly.
When the clutch lever free play is out of specifica-
tion, first try adjusting it at the clutch lever as follows.
• Check
justment.
the throttle cable play and idle speed ad-
• Turn the adjuster to obtain the proper amount of
clutch lever free play.
A. Clutch Lever
B. Adjuster
C. 8 ∼ 13 mm (0.3 ∼ 0.5 in.)
If the clutch lever free play cannot be adjusted at
the clutch lever, make the adjustment further down
the cable as follows.
• Remove the number plate (see Steering section). • Tighten the locknut.
• Slide the adjuster
Turn the in all the way.
• Loosen the locknut inback.
dust cover WARNING j
• ble, and turn the adjusting
the middle of the clutch ca-
nut so that the clutch
Too much cable play can prevent clutch dis-
engagement and cause an accident resulting
lever free play is 8 ∼ 13 mm (0.3 ∼ 0.5 in.). in serious injury or death. When adjusting
the clutch or replacing the cable, be sure the
upper end of the clutch outer cable is fully
seated in its fitting, or it could slip into place
later, creating enough cable play to prevent
clutch disengagement.
NOTE
After the adjustment is made, start the engine and
check that the clutch does not slip and that it re-
leases properly.
A. Dust Cover
B. Locknut
C. Adjusting Nut
Friction and Steel Plates Removal • Remove the clutch cover bolts.
• Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil section).
j • Remove the rear master cylinder mounting bolts,
brake pedal bolt and the rear brake pedal return
spring.
A. Clutch Cover Bolts

B. Clutch Cover
A. Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts

B. Brake Pedal Bolt
C. Brake Pedal
D. Return Spring
• Remove
Remove the clutch cover and gasket. • Remove the adjusting washer, needle bearing,
• plate andthe clutch spring bolts, clutch pressure
springs.
push rod holder and push rod.
j
A. Adjusting Washer
A. Clutch Spring Bolts B. Needle Bearing
B. Clutch Pressure Plate C. Push Rod Holder
D. Push Rod
• Remove the friction and steel plates.

NOTE
The friction plates at each end are different from
the plates installed between these plates. How-
ever, it is impossible to identify the difference by
external view.
When servicing the clutch, use a permanent
marker to identify the two end friction plates be-
fore removing them so that they can be reinstalled
in the correct positions.
When replacing the friction plates with new ones, Friction and Steel Plates Wear/Damage
mark the two end friction plates just after opening Inspection
j the package so that you can distinguish and install
them in the correct location.
• Visually inspect the friction and steel plates to see
if they show any signs of seizure, or uneven wear.
If any plates show signs of damage, replace all
• Remove the clutch hub nut with using the clutch
holder (special tool: 57001-1243) to prevent the
friction plates and steel plates as a set.
clutch hub from rotating. • Measure the thickness of the friction plates with
vernier calipers.
• Remove the clutch hub.
If they have worn past the service limit, replace
them with new ones.
Friction Plate Thickness Measurement
Standard 2.92 ∼ 3.08 mm (0.115 ∼ 0.121 in.)
Service Limit 2.7 mm (0.11 in.)
If the steel plates are replaced, measure the clutch

plate assembly length, and use the steel plates in
the following table so that the clutch plate assembly
length is standard. When measuring the clutch plate
assembly length, assemble the clutch plate assem-
bly (clutch hub, friction plates, steel plates, clutch
pressure plate, clutch spring bolts, springs).
Tightening Torque
A. Clutch Hub Nut
B. Clutch Holder (Special Tool: 57001-1243) Clutch Spring Bolts:
C. Clutch Hub 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)
NOTE
Do not use the steel plate of 2.0 mm (0.079 in.)
and 1.2 mm (0.047 in.) thickness at the same time. j
A. Clutch Hub
B. Friction Plates
C. Steel Plates
D. Clutch Pressure Plate
E. Clutch Spring Bolt
F. Spring A. Thickness
G. Standard Length B. Friction Plate
Clutch Plate Assembly Measurement Standard Friction and Steel Plate Warp Inspection
Length: • Place each friction plate and steel plate on a sur-
face plate, and measure the amount of friction
34.9 ∼ 35.5 mm (1.37 ∼ 1.40 in.)
plate and steel plate warp with a thickness gauge
(i.e., the gap between the surface plate and each
Steel Plate (Part/No.) Thickness friction plate or steel plate).
13089-1095 (Standard) 1.6 mm (0.062 in.) • If any plate is warped over the service limit, re-
place it with a new one.
13089-1005 2.0 mm (0.079 in.)
13089-1010 1.2 mm (0.047 in.)
Friction and Steel Plate Warp Clutch Hub Installation
Maximum 0.15 mm • Install all parts in the reverse order of removal.
j Friction Standard
(0.0059 in.) or less • Install thetheclutch
Replace clutch hub nut with a new one.
Plate
Service Limit 0.3 mm (0.012 in.) • Install the spacerhub.
Maximum 0.2 mm
• nut. while “OUTSIDE” is faced to the
Standard
Steel Plate (0.008 in.) or less
Service Limit 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
A. Spacer
B. “OUTSIDE”
A. Surface Plate
• Tighten the clutch hub nut with using the clutch
holder (special tool: 57001-1243) to the specified
B. Friction or Steel Plate torque.
C. Thickness Gauge
Tightening Torque
Clutch Hub Nut:
98 N·m (10 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
Friction and Steel Plate Installation • Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the push
• Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. rod as shown in the figure.
• Install the friction plates and steel plates, alternat-
ing between the two; be sure to start and finish
• Install the push rod so that the oil passage hole
faces engine right side.
j
with a friction plate.
A. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

A. Friction and Steel Plates B. Oil Passage Hole
NOTICE
If dry steel plates and friction plates are in-
stalled, apply engine oil to the surfaces of
each plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.
• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the contact

area of the push rod holder, both surface of the
Tightening Torque
Clutch Spring Bolts:
needle bearing and adjusting washer. 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)
j
• Install the push rod, push rod holder, needle bear-
ing and adjusting washer.
• Check the release shaft lever position by measur-
ing the position distance between the lever and the
NOTE
cable bracket while pushing the release shaft lever
Do not close the oil passage hole on the push rod lightly forward.
with the molybdenum disulfide grease.
A. Release Shaft Lever

A. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease. B. Push forward
B. Push Rod C. Position Distance
C. Push Rod Holder D. Cable Bracket
D. Needle Bearing
E. Adjusting Washer Position Distance
Standard 68.6 ∼ 76.4 mm (2.70 ∼ 3.01 in.)
• Install the clutch pressure plate and springs.
• torque. the clutch spring bolts to the specified
Tighten
• Iflectthethelever position is not within the standard, se-

correct thickness of adjusting washer ac-
Release Shaft Lever Position and Adjusting
Washer Selection
cording to the following table. Position Judg- Washers Quan- j
• Remove the clutch pressure plate as necessary
and reinstall the clutch and install the selected ad-
Distance ment Thickness tity
justing washer. 68.6 ∼ 76.4 mm 1.5 mm
Standard 1
(2.70 ∼ 3.01 in.) (0.06 in.)
More than 76.4 1.0 mm
Too big 1
mm (3.01 in.) (0.04 in.)
Less than 68.6 1.0 mm
Too small 2
mm (2.70 in.) (0.04 in.)
• Place a new clutch cover gasket in position with a

thin layer of grease and tighten the bolts.
Tightening Torque
Clutch Cover Bolts:
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
• Replace the O-rings on the brake pedal bolt with

new ones and install them.
A. Adjusting Washer
B. Needle Bearing • When installing the brake pedal, apply the grease
to the contact area of the brake pedal pivot and ap-
C. Push Rod Holder
ply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads
Adjusting Washer of the brake pedal bolt.
Thickness Part No. Tightening Torque
1.5 mm (0.06 in.) 92200-1548 Brake Pedal Bolts:
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
1.0 mm (0.04 in.) 92200-0045
• While pushing down the brake pedal, tighten the

rear master cylinder mounting bolts. Valve Clearance
j Tightening Torque
Valve and valve seat wear decreases valve clear-
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: ance, upsetting valve timing.
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
NOTICE
• Check the engine oil level. If valve clearance is left unadjusted, wear will
eventually cause the valves to remain partly
open, which lowers performances, burns the
valves and valve seats, and may cause seri-
ous engine damage.
Valve clearance for each valve should be checked

and adjusted in accordance with the Periodic Main-
tenance Chart.
NOTE
If the engine is hot, wait until the engine cools.
Valve clearance must be checked when the en-
gine is cold (room temperature).
Valve Clearance Inspection • Remove the head cover gasket and spark plug
• Remove the spark plug cap (see Spark Plug sec-
tion).
hole gasket.
j
• Remove the cylinder head cover bolts and cylinder
head cover.
A. Head Cover Gasket

B. Spark Plug Hole Gasket
A. Cylinder Head Cover Bolts and Washers

B. Cylinder Head Cover
• Remove the two caps from the magneto cover. • Bring the piston to the Top Dead Center (TDC) of
its compression stroke to inspect the valve clear-
ance (the position at the end of the compression
j stroke) by aligning the top mark with the groove
on the magneto cover while turning the crankshaft
counterclockwise.
A. Timing Inspection Cap

B. Flywheel Nut Cap
A. Top Mark
B. Groove on Magneto Cover
C. Crankshaft
D. Crankshaft Rotation Direction
• Atsprockets
this point, the timing marks on the camshaft
must be almost aligned with the cylinder
head upper surface as shown in the figure.
j
A. Thickness Gauge
Standard Valve Clearance

A. Timing Marks Exhaust 0.17 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0067 ∼ 0.0087 in.)
B. Camshaft Sprockets Intake 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.)
C. Cylinder Head Upper Surface
• Using the thickness gauge, measuring the clear- • Ifrange,

the valve clearance is not within the specified
adjust by an authorized Kawasaki dealer or
ance between each cam lobe and valve lifter, for
all four valves. a competent mechanic following the instructions in
the Service Manual.
NOTE
Record the measured valves clearance.
• Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil

or dirt that may be on the silicone sealant coating
• Replace the spark plug hole gasket with a new
one, and install it.
area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
j
• Apply silicone sealant to the cylinder head as
shown in the figure.
A. Head Cover Gasket

B. Spark Plug Hole Gasket
A. Silicone Sealant
• Replace the head cover gasket with a new one.

• Install the head cover gasket on the cylinder head.
• Make sure that the upper chain guide is bottomed

to the cylinder head cover.
Tightening Torque
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts:
9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb) j
• Install the two caps to the magneto cover.
Tightening Torque
Timing Inspection Cap:
3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
Flywheel Nut Cap:
3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
• Install the removed parts.
A. Upper Chain Guide

B. Cylinder Head Cover
NOTICE
Unless the upper chain guide is bottomed,
the camshaft chain could push the cylinder
head cover upward, leading to an oil leak.
• Install the cylinder head cover.

• Install the washer with the metal side upwards to
the cylinder head cover, and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque.
• Remove
Remove the muffler cover bolts.
Exhaust System • the muffler mounting bolt.
j The exhaust system, in particular the muffler body,
is designed to reduce exhaust noise and conduct the
exhaust gases away from the rider while minimizing
power loss. If carbon has built up inside the muffler
body, exhaust efficiency is reduced, causing engine
performance to drop.
If the muffler body is badly damaged, dented,
cracked or rusted, replace it. Replace the silencer
wool if the exhaust noise becomes too loud or en-
gine performance drops.
Silencer Wool Replacement
• Remove the bolts and right side cover.
A. Muffler Cover Bolts
B. Muffler Mounting Bolt
A. Bolts
B. Right Side Cover
• Remove the muffler cover with the plastic mallet. • Remove

Replace the silencer wool with a new one.
• fler covertheandsilicone sealant attaching on the muf-
muffler body.
j
• Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil
or dirt that may be on the silicone sealant coating
area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
• Arrange the shape of the silencer wool and install
the muffler cover to the muffler body.
A. Plastic Mallet
B. Muffler Cover
A. Silencer Wool
B. Muffler Body
C. Muffler Cover
• Check that the exhaust port of the muffler cover

align with the muffler body.
• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the muf-
fler body cover bolts.
j • Tighten the muffler cover bolts and apply the sili-
cone sealant to the joint part of the muffler cover
and muffler body.
A. Muffler Body End

B. Baffle
A. Muffler Cover
B. Muffler Body
C. Muffler Cover Bolts
D. Silicone Sealant
NOTE
If the threaded holes of the muffler cover and muf-
fler body do not align, remove the muffler clamp
bolt and muffler mounting bolts.
• Secondly,
Firstly, tighten the muffler mounting bolt (front). • Insert the tabs of the side cover into the slots of
• Thirdly, tighten
tighten the muffler mounting bolt (rear). the air cleaner housing.
• the muffler clamp bolt. • Insert the side cover rib between the rear fender
and the rear frame.
j
• Tighten the bolt.
A. Muffler Mounting Bolt (Front)

B. Muffler Clamp Bolt
C. Muffler Body A. Tabs
B. Slots
C. Rib
D. Rear Fender
E. Rear Frame
Rear Axle Nut Drive Chain

j
• Visually inspect the rear axle nut for deformation
or damage at the friction ring and caulking. If it is
For safety and to prevent excessive wear, the drive
chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated be-
deformed or damaged, replace the axle nut with a fore riding. If the chain becomes badly worn or mal-
new one. adjusted - either too loose or too tight - it could jump
off the sprockets or break.
WARNING
A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprock-
ets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock
the rear wheel, severely damaging the motor-
cycle and causing it to go out of control. In-
spect the chain for damage and proper ad-
justment before each ride.
Chain Slack Inspection

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground, then rotate
the rear wheel to find the place where the chain is
tightest (because it wears unevenly).
A. Friction Ring
B. Caulking • Push up the drive chain in the middle of the up-
per chain run to measure the chain slack. The
distance between the bottom of the chain and the
swingarm (at the end of the chain slipper) should
be within the standard value.
Drive Chain Slack
Standard 52 ∼ 58 mm (2.0 ∼ 2.3 in.)
• Adjust
cation.
the drive chain if its slack is out of specifi- For the rear wheel to be properly aligned, the
notch of the left chain adjuster should align with
the same swingarm mark that the notch of the
right chain adjuster aligns with.
j
Drive Chain Slack
52 ∼ 58 mm (2.0 ∼ 2.3 in.)
A. Chain Slack
• Inwheel
addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear
to inspect the drive chain for damaged
rollers, loose pins and links and the sprockets
for unevenly or excessively worn and damaged
teeth. A. Rear Axle Nut
• If there are any such defects, replace the drive
chain and/or the sprockets.
B. Adjusting Bolt
C. Locknut
D. Marks
Chain Slack Adjustment E. Notch
• Loosen the rear axle nut and both chain adjuster
locknuts. NOTE
• Turn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until the
drive chain slack (measured between the chain
Wheel alignment can also be checked using the
straightedge or string method.
and the swingarm) is within the standard value.
WARNING • Check the rear brake effectiveness.

Misalignment of the wheel will result in ab- NOTE
j normal wear, and may result in an unsafe When riding in wet and muddy conditions, mud
riding condition. Align the rear wheel using sticks to the chain and sprockets, resulting in an
the marks on the swingarm or measuring the overly tight chain, which can cause it to break.
distance between the center of the axle and To prevent this, adjust the chain slack (measured
swingarm pivot. between the chain and the swingarm) to 62 ∼ 68
mm (2.4 ∼ 2.7 in.).
• Inspect
tion).
the rear axle nut (see Rear Axle Nut sec-
Chain Wear Inspection
• Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts. When the chain has reached its wear limit (i.e.,
• Tighten the axle nut to the specified torque. when it has stretched by 1.7% of its original length),
Tightening Torque it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced.
Rear Axle Nut: Since it is impractical to measure the entire length of
108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 79.7 ft·lb) the chain, determine the degree of wear by measur-
ing a 20-link section of the chain.
• Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again • Tighten the chain either by using the chain ad-
justers or by hanging a 10 kg (22 lb) weight on the
at the tightest position, and readjust it if necessary.
chain.
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident re-
sulting in serious injury or death. Tighten the
axle nut to the proper torque.
• Measure the 20-link length on a straight part of the

chain from the center of the 1st pin to the center
NOTE
The drive system was designed for use with a
of the 21st pin. If the length exceeds the service DAIDO DID 520DMA4 114-links chain. For maxi-
limit, the chain should be replaced. Since over-
j
mum stretch resistance and safety, a genuine part
worn sprockets will cause a new chain to wear must be used for replacement.
faster, inspect both the engine and rear sprockets To minimize any chance of the master link coming
whenever the chain is replaced, and replace them apart, the master link clip must be installed with
if necessary. the closed end of the “U” pointing in the direction
of chain rotation.
A. Weight
B. Tape Measure
A. Master Link Clip
Drive Chain 20-Link Length B. Direction of Chain Rotation
317.5 ∼ 318.2 mm (12.50 ∼ 12.53
Standard
in.)
Service Limit 323 mm (12.7 in.)
Chain Guide Wear Inspection Chain Slipper Wear Inspection
• Visually inspect the drive chain guide and replace
it if excessively worn or damaged.
• Visually inspect the upper and lower of the chain
slipper on the swingarm and replace them if worn
j or damaged.
A. Chain Guide
A. Upper and Lower of the Chain Slipper
B. Swingarm
Sprocket Wear Inspection Chain Lubrication

•Visually inspect the sprocket teeth and replace the
sprocket if its teeth are worn or damaged.
Lubrication of the drive chain is necessary after rid-
ing in the rain or mud, or any time the chain appears
Sprocket Teeth Wear dry with a high quality lubricant for drive chains.
j
• Apply lubricant to the side of the rollers so that it
will penetrate to the rollers and bushings.
• Wipe off any excess lubricant.
A. Good Teeth
B. Worn Teeth
C. Damaged Teeth
NOTE
Sprocket wear is exaggerated in the illustration.
Adjustable Ergonomics
• Remove the handlebar holder nuts, washers and
handlebar holders.
j To suit various riding positions, the handlebar
holder position can be changed and the handlebar
can be adjusted by turning the handlebar holders
around (180°).
The footpeg position can also be changed to suit
the rider’s preference.
Handlebar Position Adjustment
• Remove the handlebar pad.
• Remove thehandlebar
Check the for damage or cracks.
• and the handlebar. clamp bolts, the clamps
handlebar
A. Handlebar Holder Nuts

B. Washers
C. Handlebar Holder
• Select the handlebar position and install the

dampers into the holes of the steering stem head
so that the flat surface of dampers fit the surface
of the steering stem head holes.
• Replace the handlebar holder nuts with new ones.
• Install the handlebar holder in the suitable direc-
tion.
• Put the handlebar on the handlebar holder.
• Temporarily install the handlebar clamps.
A. Handlebar Holder • Hand tighten the handlebar clamp bolts.
B.
C.
Handlebar Clamp Bolts
Handlebar Clamps
• Tighten the handlebar holder nuts.
D. Handlebar
Tightening Torque NOTE

Handlebar Holder Nuts: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times
34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb) to ensure even tightening torque. j
A. Dampers A. Handlebar Clamps

B. Flat Surfaces B. Clamp Bolts
C. Gap
• Position the handlebar and use the gauge marks
to check its alignment in the clamps. There
D. Supporting Bar
should be equal marks showing on each side of • Do not disassemble the supporting bar on the han-
dlebar.
the clamps.
• Tighten the front and rear handlebar clamp bolts • Check the front brake for the proper brake effect,
or no brake drag.
equally. If the handlebar clamps are correctly in-
stalled, there will be even gaps on the front and
rear sides of the clamp after the bolts are torqued.
Tightening Torque
Handlebar Clamp Bolts:
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
Footpeg
• (This
Remove the footpeg bracket bolts and bracket.
position is standard.)
j The right and left footpegs can be mounted in one
of two positions.
• Remove the cotter pin, pivot pin, washer, spring
and footpeg.
A. Footpeg Bracket Bolts

B. Footpeg Bracket
• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to

bracket bolts.
the
A. Cotter Pin • Select either footpeg position and tighten

bracket with the two bolts.
the
B. Pivot Pin
C. Washer Tightening Torque
D. Spring Footpeg Bracket Bolts (Upper):
E. Footpeg
34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
Footpeg Bracket Bolts (Lower):
16.5 N·m (1.68 kgf·m, 12.2 ft·lb)
• Apply grease to the pivot pin.

• Install the footpeg, spring and pivot pin. Insert the
pivot pin from the front.
• Install
Position the spring ends as shown in the figure. Installing the footpegs in the lower position will re-
• Bend thethe washer and new cotter pin. duce the amount of ground clearance and lean an-
• longer end of the cotter pin. gle.
j
A. Pivot Pin
B. Spring Ends
C. Washer
D. Cotter Pin
NOTE
Install the footpegs with same height on both
sides. Do not ride the motorcycle with footpegs
installed unevenly.
Adjust the positions of the shift pedal and the
brake pedal to suit the rider’s preference.
Brakes
• Test the braking power and check that there is no
brake drag.
j Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compen- WARNING
sated for and has no effect on the brake lever or Air in the brake lines diminish braking perfor-
pedal action. There are no parts on the brakes that mance and can cause an accident resulting
require adjustment except brake lever position. in injury or death. If the brake lever or pedal
Brake Lever Position feels mushy when it is applied, there might
The brake lever position can be adjusted to suit be air in the brake lines or the brake may be
the rider’s preference. defective. Have the brake checked immedi-
• To adjust the brake lever position, slide the front
brake lever dust cover back, and loosen the lock-
ately by an authorized Kawasaki dealer.
nut, and turn the adjuster to either side with a Disc Brake Fluid
wrench. Inspect the brake fluid level in the front and rear
• After adjustment, tighten the locknut securely. brake reservoirs and change the brake fluid in ac-
cordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart. The
brake fluid should also be changed when contami-
nated with dirt or water.
Use only heavy-duty brake fluid as follows.
Front/Rear Brake Fluid : DOT3 or DOT4
NOTE
The motorcycle is shipped with brake fluid DOT4
in the brake system.
A. Brake Lever
B. Adjuster
C. Locknut
NOTICE
Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted sur-
face. j
Do not use fluid from a container that has
been left open or that has been unsealed for
a long time.
Check for fluid leakage around the brake sys-
tem fittings.
Check for brake hose damage.
Brake Fluid Level Inspection (Front and Rear

Brake Reservoirs)
With the front or rear brake reservoir positioned
horizontally, the brake fluid must always be above A. Rear Brake Reservoir
the lower level line. B. Lower Level Line
A. Front Brake Reservoir

B. Lower Level Line
• Ifis the brake fluid in the front or rear brake reservoir

below the lower level line, check for fluid leaks
in the brake line and fill the reservoir to the upper
j level line (The step inside the front and rear brake
reservoirs indicate the upper level.).
A. Rear Brake Reservoir

B. Upper Level Line
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can
A. Front Brake Reservoir reduce the brake system’s effectiveness
B. Upper Level Line and cause an accident resulting in injury
or death. Do not mix two brands of brake
fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line
completely if the brake fluid must be refilled
but the type and brand of the brake fluid that
is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
Brake Pad Wear Inspection

Inspect the brake pads for wear in accordance with Steering
the Periodic Maintenance Chart. If the thickness of
any pad in any (front or rear) brake caliper is less The steering should always be kept adjusted so
j
than 1 mm (0.04 in.), have both pads in the caliper that the handlebar will turn freely but not have ex-
replaced as a set. Pad replacement should be done cessive play.
by an authorized Kawasaki dealer.
Usable Brake Pad Range
A. Lining Thickness
B. 1 mm (0.04 in.)
Steering Inspection Steering Adjustment
• To check the steering adjustment, raise the front
wheel off the ground using a jack (special tool:
• Raise the front wheel off the ground using a jack
(special tool: 57001-1238) and attachment (spe-
j 57001-1238) and attachment (special tool: 57001 cial tool: 57001-1608).
-1608). • Unlock the clamp of the number plate.
• Push the handlebar lightly to either side. If the • Clear thetheprojections
Remove bolt.
handlebar continues moving under its own mo-
mentum, the steering is not too tight.
• plate. and remove the number
• Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the

lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push
and rock the front fork back and forth as shown in
the figure. If play is felt, the steering is too loose
and needs to be adjusted.
A. Clamp
B. Bolt
C. Projections
D. Number Plate
A. Push and Rock

• Remove the handlebar (see Handlebar section). • Turn the steering stem nut with a stem nut wrench
• per).
Loosen the left and right front fork clamp bolts (up- (special tool: 57001-1100) to obtain the proper ad-
justment.
j
• Remove the steering stem head nut, and raise the
steering stem head.
A. Steering Stem Nut

B. Stem Nut Wrench (Special Tool: 57001-1100)
A. Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
B. Steering Stem Head Nut • Install
tion.
the steering stem head to the original posi-
C. Steering Stem Head
• Apply the specified torques to the steering stem
head nut and front fork clamp bolts (upper).
Tightening Torque
Steering Stem Head Nut:
98 N·m (10 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times Front Suspension
j to ensure even tightening torque.
Front Fork Inspection
• Install the handlebar (see Handlebar section), and
check the steering again and readjust it if neces-
sary. NOTICE
• Check the front brake for the proper brake effect,
or no brake drag.
Sticking muds or dusts on the sliding surface
of the front fork could damage to the oil seal,
• Install the removed parts. leading to an oil leak. Clean the sliding sur-
face after each ride.
• Holding the brake lever, pump the front fork back

and forth manually to check for smooth operation.
• Visually inspect the front fork for oil leakage, scor-
ing or scratches on the outer surface of the inner
tube.
• If necessary, repair or replace by an authorized
Kawasaki dealer.
Front Fork Adjustment

Any of the following front fork adjustments can
be made to tune the front suspension to the rider’s
weight and the condition of the track.
j
Basically, there are five adjustments you can make
to the front fork.
• Air Pressure (Right Front Fork)
Air pressure adjustment changes the Fork Spring
Characteristic.
Adjustable Range
600 ∼ 1300 kPa
Inner Chamber (6.11 ∼ 13.26 kgf/cm², 87.0 ∼
188.5 psi)
A. Inner Tube 0 ∼ 130 kPa
Outer Chamber
(0 ∼ 1.33 kgf/cm², 0 ∼ 18.9 psi)
WARNING 530 ∼ 1400 kPa
Oil leakage from the dust seal decreases Balance Chamber (5.40 ∼ 14.28 kgf/cm², 76.9 ∼
the air pressure in the front fork, which can 203 psi)
cause loss of control and an accident re-
sulting in serious injury or death. If the seal Recommended Soft Setting
begins to leak, replace it and any other worn 900 kPa (9.18 kgf/cm², 131
or damaged parts to prevent air loss. Inner Chamber
psi)
Outer Chamber 50 kPa (0.51 kgf/cm², 7.25 psi)
NOTICE 800 kPa (8.16 kgf/cm², 116
Balance Chamber
If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, psi)
replace it. Excessive bending, followed by
subsequent straightening, can weaken the
inner tube.
Standard Setting • Compression
Fork)
Damping Adjustment (Left Front
1 000 kPa (10.20 kgf/cm², 145
Inner Chamber This adjustment affects how quickly the fork com-
j psi)
presses. Depending on the model, the fork com-
Outer Chamber 50 kPa (0.51 kgf/cm², 7.25 psi) pression damping adjuster has at least 22 positions.
900 kPa (9.18 kgf/cm², 131 The fully seated position (adjuster turned fully clock-
Balance Chamber wise) is the hardest setting. Turning the adjuster 5
psi)
clicks counterclockwise from the fully seated posi-
Recommended Hard Setting tion is the standard setting, turning it counterclock-
wise 22 or more clicks (depending on the model) is
1 100 kPa (11.22 kgf/cm², 160 the softest setting.
Inner Chamber
psi)
Outer Chamber 50 kPa (0.51 kgf/cm², 7.25 psi)
• Fork Oil Amount Adjustment
The fork oil amount affects only the final 100 mm
(4 in.) of fork travel. A higher oil amount will make
1 000 kPa (10.20 kgf/cm², 145
Balance Chamber the fork rebound more quickly. A lower oil amount
psi)
will make the fork rebound more slowly.
• This
Rebound Damping Adjustment (Left Front Fork) • Fork Height
Steering is greatly affected by the fork height (how
adjustment affects how quickly the fork re-
bounds. Depending on the model, the fork rebound much the outer fork tubes protrude above the steer-
damping adjuster has at least 20 positions. The fully ing stem head). The less the fork tube protrudes,
seated position (adjuster turned fully clockwise) is the lighter the front end becomes and the greater
the hardest setting. Turning the adjuster 13 clicks the tendency for understeering and washout due to
counterclockwise from the fully seated position is the weight biasing. Increasing the amount of fork tube
standard setting, turning it counterclockwise 20 or protrusion has opposite effects. Be sure that the
more clicks (depending on the model) is the softest front tire does not touch the fender when the fork
setting. is fully compressed. Make this adjustment in 10 mm
(0.4 in.) steps.
WARNING Outer Chamber Air Pressure

Improper fork leg adjustment can cause poor Air Pressure
50 kPa (0.51 kgf/cm², 7.25 psi)
handling and loss of stability, which could (Standard setting) j
lead to an accident. Always adjust the fork 0 ∼ 130 kPa
Adjustable Range
legs height on the left and right side to the (0 ∼ 1.33 kgf/cm², 0 ∼ 18.9 psi)
same setting.
Balance Chamber Air Pressure
Air Pressure Adjustment Air Pressure 900 kPa (9.18 kgf/cm², 131
Before riding, adjust the air pressure to the specific (Standard setting) psi)
value.
530 ∼ 1400 kPa
• Remove the number plate (see Steering section).
Adjustable Range (5.40 ∼ 14.28 kgf/cm², 76.9 ∼
• Place the motorcycle on a stand so that the front
wheel is off the ground the forks are fully extended. 203 psi)
• Remove the air valve caps.
• Bleed air by pushing down the balance chamber
air valve.
NOTE
Do not use the side stand during air pressure ad-
• Adjust the air pressure in right fork leg within the
specified range in the order of inner chamber,
justment.
outer chamber and balance chamber.
Inner Chamber Air Pressure WARNING
Air Pressure 1 000 kPa (10.20 kgf/cm², 145 When riding and transporting the motor-
(Standard setting) psi) cycle, make sure that the air pressure is
within the adjustable range. If used outside
600 ∼ 1300 kPa the adjustable range, running stability can
Adjustable Range (6.11 ∼ 13.26 kgf/cm², 87.0 ∼ decrease and cause an accident resulting in
188.5 psi) serious injury or death.
NOTICE
Do not pressurize the fork to more than the
j adjustable range or the fork may be dam-
aged.
• Even if the air pressure of the front fork is ad-

justed, the performance of the front fork does not
change, have the front fork checked by an autho-
rized Kawasaki dealer.
Rebound Damping Adjustment
• Clean the bottom of the fork tubes.
• To adjust the rebound damping, turn the adjuster
on each cylinder valve with a standard tip screw-
driver. Adjust the rebound damping to suit your A. Rebound Damping Adjuster
preference under certain conditions.
NOTICE
Do not force the rebound damping adjuster
beyond the fully seated position, or the ad-
justing mechanism may be damaged.
Rebound Damping Adjuster Settings Compression Damping Adjustment

• To adjust the compression damping, turn the
adjuster on each front fork cylinder valve with a
standard tip screwdriver. Adjust the compression
j
damping to suit your preference and riding condi-
tions.
NOTICE
Do not force the compression damping ad-
juster beyond the fully seated position, or the
adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully

Clockwise)
B. Softer (Counterclockwise)
C. Harder (Clockwise)
D. Standard Setting
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range
-20 clicks or more.
Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting
13 clicks *
* Counterclockwise from the fully seated position A. Compression Damping Adjuster

Compression Damping Adjuster Settings NOTICE
Be careful not to scratch the inner tube and
j not to damage the dust seal.
Avoid scratching or damaging the inner tube
or the dust seal. Use a mild detergent and
sponge out dirt with plenty of water.
• Place the motorcycle on a stand so that front

wheel is in the air.
• Unscrew the front axle nut, and then loosen the
left front axle clamp bolts.
A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully

Clockwise)
C. Harder (Clockwise)
D. Standard Setting
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range
-22 clicks or more.
Standard Compression Damping Adjuster
Setting
5 clicks *
A. Front Axle Nut
* Counterclockwise from the fully seated position B. Left Front Axle Clamp Bolts (Loosen)
Front Fork Oil Change

• Thoroughly clean the fork before disassembly.
• Remove the brake caliper from the fork leg, and

rest the caliper on some kind of stand so that it
• Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off
the collar from each side of the front hub.
does not dangle.
NOTICE j
• Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads.
This prevents them from being moved out of their Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the
proper position, if the brake lever is squeezed ac- disc facing down. This can damage or warp
cidentally. the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so the
• Remove the brake hose clamps and both fork pro-
tectors.
disc does not touch the ground.
A. Brake Caliper A. Right Front Axle Clamp Bolts (Loosen)

B. Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts B. Front Axle
C. Brake Hose Clamps C. Collar
D. Brake Hose Clamp Mounting Bolts
E. Fork Protector • Remove the number plate (see Steering section).
F. Fork Protector Mounting Bolts • Loosen the front fork clamp bolts (upper).
• Loosen the right front axle clamp bolts.

NOTE
Do not remove the cylinder unit.
j
A. Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
NOTE
Set the rebound and compression damping to the A. Cylinder Unit
softest settings before disassembly to minimize B. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool:
damping forces that can hinder disassembly. 57001-1645)
Record the setting before turning the adjuster.
• Loosen the cylinder unit with the top plug wrench,

50 mm (special tool: 57001-1645).
• Loosen the front fork clamp bolts (lower). • Remove

ing it.
the front fork by pulling down while twist-
A. Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)

A. Pull down by twisting.
B. Front Fork
Left Front Fork NOTE
• Using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (special tool:
57001-1645), remove the cylinder unit from the
Pump the outer tube several times to drain the fork
j oil.
outer tube and slowly slide down the outer tube.
A. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool: A. Fork Oil

57001-1645)
B. Cylinder Unit • Temporarily install the cylinder unit to the outer
tube using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (special
C. Outer Tube tool: 57001-1645).
D. Slide Down
• Place a drain pan under the front fork and drain

fork oil.
• Loosen the adjuster assembly completely.

NOTE
When removing the adjuster assembly, do not j
force to loosen it at once using an impact wrench.
A. Cylinder Unit
B. Outer Tube
C. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool:
57001-1645)
• Hold the axle holder with a vise.

A. Axle Holder Part
WARNING B. Adjuster Assembly
Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam-
age it which will affect riding stability. Do not • Compress the outer tube by hands and remove
the adjuster assembly from the axle holder part so
clamp the axle holder too tight.
that the locknut appear about 20 ∼ 30 mm (0.79 ∼
1.2 in.).
NOTE
Protect the axle holder with a heavy cloth when
• Hold the locknut with a wrench and remove the
adjuster assembly.
using a vise.
• Remove the push rod.

j
A. Locknut
B. Wrench
C. Adjuster Assembly A. Push Rod
NOTICE
Removing the locknut and pushing the pis-
ton rod thread into the cylinder unit will dam-
age the oil seal. Do not remove the locknut
from the piston rod.
• Remove the fork leg from the vise.

• 50 mm (special
Remove the cylinder unit with the top plug wrench,
tool: 57001-1645).
j
A. Cylinder
B. Outer Tube
A. Cylinder Unit NOTICE

B. Outer Tube Disassembling the cylinder unit can cause
internal damage. Do not disassemble the
57001-1645)
cylinder unit.
• Remove the cylinder unit from the outer tube.
NOTICE • Hold the front fork at the inverted position for more
than 20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.
Do not touch the piston rod to the outer tube.
The piston rod could be damage.
• Holding the top plug wrench, 50 mm (special tool:

57001-1645) with a vise, loosen the base valve as-
sembly on the cylinder unit with a top plug wrench,
j 36 mm (special tool: 57001-1810).
A. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool:

57001-1645)
B. Base Valve Assembly
C. Cylinder Unit
D. Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm (Special Tool:
57001-1810)
• Remove
der unit.
the base valve assembly from the cylin-
NOTICE
Be careful not to damage the bushing of the
base valve assembly.
NOTICE
Disassembling the base valve assembly can
lead to trouble. Do not disassemble the base j
valve assembly.
• Drain the fork oil from the cylinder unit by pumping

the piston rod several times.
A. Base Valve Assembly

B. Cylinder Unit
NOTE
Slowly compress the piston rod until it stops so
that the base valve assembly can be removed
easily.
A. Fork Oil
B. Cylinder Unit
• Clean the threads of the cylinder unit and base

valve assembly.
j
A. Fork Oil
B. Cylinder Unit
C. Oil Holes
A. Threads
Suspension Oil
• With the piston rod fully stretched, pour 310 mL
(10.5 US oz.) of fork oil. SS-19 (1 L): P/No. 44091-0009
NOTE
Plug the oil hole on the cylinder unit with finger.
• Pump the piston rod slowly several times to expel

air with plugged the oil hole by finger.
j
A. 132 ∼ 140 mm (5.20 ∼ 5.51 in.)

B. Oil Level
A. Pump
B. Piston Rod
• Replace the O-rings on the base valve assembly
with new ones.
• With the piston rod fully stretched, check the oil • Apply specified fork oil to the O-rings and bushings
on the base valve assembly.
level in the cylinder unit.
Oil Level NOTICE
132 ∼ 140 mm (5.20 ∼ 5.51 in.) Do not damage the bushings when assem-
bling the base valve.
NOTE
Measure the oil level from the top surface in the
cylinder unit using a gauge.
A. O-rings A. Piston Rod

B. Bushings B. Base Valve Assembly
C. Cylinder Unit
• With the piston rod appear about 20 mm (0.79
in.) from fully compressed, gently install the base
D. Oil Holes
valve assembly slowly to the cylinder unit. • Hold the top plug wrench, 50 mm (special tool:
57001-1645) with a vise.
NOTE
Plug the oil hole on the cylinder unit with finger.
• Holding the cylinder unit with the top plug wrench,
50 mm (special tool: 57001-1645), torque the
While pulling the piston rod, install the base valve base valve assembly with a top plug wrench, 36
assembly slowly and pushing down it fully. mm (special tool: 57001-1810).
• slowly
Hold the cylinder unit at the upright position and
pump the piston rod several times about
100 mm (3.94 in.).
j
• Drain the extra oil off the cylinder unit by pumping
the piston rod to full stroke.
NOTICE
Be careful not to bend or damage the pis-
ton rod when the piston rod is stroked. Ser-
vice carefully because oil flies out from the
oil holes of the cylinder unit.

57001-1645)
B. Base Valve Assembly
C. Cylinder Unit
D. Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm (Special Tool:
57001-1810)
Tightening Torque
Base Valve Assembly:
30 N·m (3.1 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)
NOTE
Check if the locknut is completely screwed onto A. Piston Rod
the piston rod. B. Heavy Cloth
C. Pump the piston.
• Protect the piston rod end with a heavy cloth to
prevent piston rod thread damage.
NOTE
Set the compression damping force setting to the
j softest. Check the piston rod sliding surface for
damage. Apply specified fork oil to the piston rod
sliding surface.
• Drain the extra oil from the cylinder unit oil hole.
• der unit with
Blow out the extra oil from the oil hole of the cylin-
the compressed air blow to the oil
hole.
• Wipe the oil off completely from the cylinder unit.
• If you cannot use compressed air, remove the air
pressure relief screw of the base valve assembly.
Up side down the fork damper for more than 10
minutes and drain the oil from the cylinder unit. A. Oil Hole
Reinstall and tighten the air pressure relief screw.
Tightening Torque • Protect the piston rod end with a heavy cloth to
prevent damage.
Air Pressure Relief Screw:
1.3 N·m (0.13 kgf·m, 12 in·lb)
• Pump the piston rod to full stroke by pushing down
the cylinder unit.
• Check the piston rod for smooth operation.
• piston rod forrodbend
If the piston operation is not smooth, check the
or damage.
• Hold the cylinder unit on level ground while piston
rod is full stroked by your hand.
• Release the piston rod then check the piston rod
extend to maximum.
• Ifbleed
the piston rod does not extend to maximum,
the air in the cylinder unit again.
NOTICE
Be careful not to bend or damage the piston
rod when the piston rod is stroked.
• Wipe the oil off completely from the cylinder unit. • Hold the cylinder unit on level ground and release
• 9.84 in.) andthehold
Compress piston rod to 200 ∼ 250 mm (7.87 ∼
the cylinder unit upright position
the piston rod then check the piston rod extend to
maximum.
j
for 10 minutes. • (0.39
Tighten the locknut fully and measure 10 ∼ 12 mm
∼ 0.47 in.).
A. Cylinder Unit
B. Piston Rod A. Locknut
C. 200 ∼ 250 mm (7.87 ∼ 9.84 in.) B. 10 ∼ 12 mm (0.39 ∼ 0.47 in.)
• There should be no oil leak from the cylinder unit.
• der unit assembly.
If oil leaks from the cylinder unit, replace the cylin-
• Completely
unit.
wipe off the fork oil from the cylinder
j • Insert the cylinder unit into the fork.

NOTICE
Do not touch the piston rod to the outer tube.
A. Cylinder Unit
B. Outer Tube
57001-1645)

NOTE
using a vise.
A. Cylinder Unit
B. Outer Tube
WARNING
• Temporarily tighten the
the top plug wrench,
cylinder unit fully with
50 mm (special tool: Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam-
57001-1645). age it which will affect riding stability. Do not
• Insert the push rod into the piston rod.

• Replace the O-ring on the adjuster assembly with
a new one and apply teflon grease to the O-ring.
• Install the adjuster assembly to the push rod.

j
A. Adjuster Assembly
B. Locknut
A. Push Rod C. More Than 1 mm (0.04 in.)
B. Adjuster Assembly
C. O-ring • Turn the locknut counterclockwise until it contacts
with the adjuster assembly.
• Slowly turn the adjuster assembly clockwise until
resistance is felt and check the clearance between • With the locknut held immovable using a wrench,
tighten the adjuster assembly to the specified
the locknut and adjuster assembly for more than 1
torque.
mm (0.04 in.).
Tightening Torque
Adjuster Assembly (to Piston Rod):
22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 ft·lb)
NOTICE Tightening Torque
When tightening the locknut, the threads of Adjuster Assembly (to Axle Holder):
j the axle holder do not touch the piston rod. 69 N·m (7.0 kgf·m, 51 ft·lb)
If the piston rod is scratched, it is possible to
the damage in the cylinder unit.
A. Axle Holder Part

B. Adjuster Assembly
A. Locknut
B. Wrench
• Using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (special tool:
C. Adjuster Assembly outer tube and slowly slide down the outer tube.
• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the
threads of the adjuster assembly and tighten the
adjuster assembly into the front fork.
A. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool: A. Outer Tube

57001-1645) B. Fork Oil
B. Cylinder Unit
C. Outer Tube Suspension Oil
D. Slide Down
SS-19 (1 L): P/No. 44091-0009
• Pour
tube.
the specified amount of fork oil into the outer
Standard Fork Oil Amount
Fork Oil Amount 340 mL (11.5 US oz.)
300 ∼ 398 mL (10.1 ∼ 13.5
Adjustable Range
US oz.)
• Replace the O-ring on the cylinder unit with a new

one and apply teflon grease oil to the O-ring.
• Raise the outer tube and temporarily install the
left front fork cylinder unit to the outer tube using
the top plug wrench, 50 mm (special tool: 57001
-1645).
A. Cylinder Unit A. Air Valve Cap (Outer)

B. Outer Tube B. Air Valve Cap (Inner)
57001-1645)
Right Front Fork

• Remove the air valve caps.
A. Air Valve Cap (Balance)

• Bleed
Set the front fork upright state.
• der of air by pushing down the air valves in the or-
balance chamber, outer chamber and inner
chamber.
j
NOTE
First, bleed air in a balance chamber.
The oil may spout from the air valve.
A. Air Valve (Outer)

B. Air Valve (Inner)
• Press the chamber cap and remove the circlip.
A. Air Valve (Balance)

A. Chamber Cap A. Clean Cloth

B. Circlip B. Chamber Cap
• Cover the chamber cap with the clean cloth, and

then hold the clean cloth to the outer tube with the
• Place the a drain pan under the front fork and drain
fork oil so that the oil hole positions upward for the
tape. oil spout from the oil hole.
• Pumping the outer tube several times to remove
the chamber cap.
NOTE
WARNING oil.
Pressure within the chamber can push the
chamber cap out with great force, creating
the potential for injury. To avoid injury, point
the chamber cap away from your body when
pumping the outer tube and cover it with a
cloth as shown.
• Using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (Special tool:

outer tube and slowly slide down the outer tube.
j
A. Oil Hole

57001-1645)
B. Cylinder Unit
C. Outer Tube
D. Slide Down
• Place the drain pan under the front fork and drain
fork oil.
NOTE
oil.
A. Fork Oil
B. Oil Hole
A. Fork Oil A. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool:

57001-1645)
• Temporarily install the cylinder unit to the outer
tube using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (Special
B. Cylinder Unit
C. Outer Tube
tool: 57001-1645).
• Hold
bolt.
the axle holder with a vise, remove the plug
WARNING
age it which will affect riding stability. Do not
NOTE
using a vice.

WARNING j
NOTE
using a vice.
• Loosen the sealing bolt completely.

NOTE
A. Plug Bolt When removing the sealing bolt, do not force to
loosen it at once using an impact wrench.
• Place the drain pan under the front fork and drain
fork oil.
A. Sealing Bolt
A. Fork Oil
• Compress the outer tube by hand and remove the • Remove

Remove the fork leg with a vise.
sealing bolt from the axle holder part so that the
locknut appears about 20 ∼ 30 mm (0.79 ∼ 0.12
• 50 mm (special
the cylinder unit with the top plug wrench,
tool: 57001-1645).
j in.).
• Hold the locknut with a wrench and remove the
sealing bolt.

57001-1645)
B. Cylinder Unit
A. Locknut C. Outer Tube
B. Wrench
C. Sealing Bolt • Remove the cylinder unit from the outer tube.
NOTICE
NOTICE Do not touch the piston rod to the outer tube.
Removing the locknut and pushing the pis- The piston rod could be damage.
ton rod thread into the cylinder unit will dam-
age the oil seal. Do not remove the locknut
from the piston rod.
A. Cylinder Unit A. Fork Oil

B. Outer Tube
• Hold the front fork at the inverted position for more
than 20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.
NOTICE
Disassembling the cylinder unit can cause
internal damage. Do not disassemble the
cylinder unit.
• Drain the fork oil from the cylinder unit by pumping

the piston rod more than 10 times.
NOTICE
Service carefully because oil flies out from
the oil hole of the cylinder unit.
• With the piston rod fully stretched, pour the fork oil
of 100 mL (3.38 US oz.).
j
A. Chamber Cap
B. O-rings
C. Cylinder Unit
A. Fork Oil
B. Cylinder Unit • Replace the circlip with a new one and install the
circlip in the groove in the cylinder unit.
Recommended Fork Oil
SS-19 (1 L): P/No. 44091-0009 NOTICE
If the circlip is not a certain fit in the groove in
• Replace the O-rings on the chamber cap and
cylinder unit with new ones.
the cylinder unit, the chamber cap may come
out of the front fork when injecting the air
• Apply
cap.
teflon grease to the O-rings on the chamber pressure or riding the motorcycle.
• Install the chamber cap to the cylinder unit. • Pumping the cylinder unit and fit the chamber cap
to the circlip.
A. Circlip A. Air Pump

B. Chamber Cap B. Air Valve (Inner)
• With the piston rod fully stretched, inject the air of

specified pressure to the inner chamber by using
Inner Chamber Air Pressure
the suitable air pump. Air Pressure 1 000 kPa (10.20 kgf/cm², 145
(Standard Setting) psi)
WARNING 600 ∼ 1 300 kPa (6.11 ∼ 13.26
Adjustable Range
Rapid pressurization of the cylinder unit can kgf/cm², 87.0 ∼ 188.5 psi)
damage it and eject the piston rod with great
force, creating the potential for injury. To • Measure the cylinder unit length.
avoid injury and damaging the piston rod, do Standard 950.5 ∼ 952.5 mm (37.42 ∼ 37.50
not pressurize the cylinder unit quickly with Length in.)
compressed air; use a manually operated air
pump. • Ifunit.
it is not within the standard, replace the cylinder
A. Length A. Cylinder Unit

B. Outer Tube
• Insert the cylinder unit to the outer tube.
NOTICE • Temporarily install the cylinder unit to the outer
tube using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (Special
Do not touch the piston rod to the outer tube. tool: 57001-1645 ).
• Replace the O-rings on the sealing bolt and piston

rod with new ones and apply teflon grease to the
O-rings.
j
A. Top Plug Wrench

B. Cylinder Unit
C. Outer Tube
• Hold the axle holder with a vise. A. O-rings

B. Sealing Bolt
WARNING C. Piston Rod
age it which will affect riding stability. Do not • Tighten the lock nut fully.
clamp the axle holder too tight. • Slowly turn the sealing bolt clockwise until resis-
tance is felt and check the clearance between the
locknut and sealing bolt for more than 1.5 mm
NOTE (0.059 in.).
using a vice.
A. Locknut A. Locknut
B. Sealing Bolt B. Wrench
C. More than 1.5 mm (0.059 in.) C. Sealing Bolt
• Turn the locknut counterclockwise until it contacts

with the sealing bolt.
• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the
threads of the sealing bolt and tighten the sealing
• With the locknut held immovable using a wrench,
tighten the sealing bolt to the specified torque.
bolt into the front fork.
Tightening Torque
Tightening Torque Sealing Bolt (to Axle Holder):
Sealing Bolt (to Piston Rod): 69 N·m (7.0 kgf·m, 51 ft·lb)
28 N·m (2.9 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
NOTICE
When tightening the locknut, the threads of
the axle holder do not touch the piston rod.
If the piston rod is scratched, it is possible to
the damage in the cylinder unit.
A. Sealing Bolt A. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool:

57001-1645)
• Remove the cylinder unit with the top plug wrench,
50 mm (special tool: 57001-1645).
B. Cylinder Unit
C. Outer Tube
• Pour the fork oil of 300 mL (10.1 US oz.) into the

outer tube.
A. Fork Oil A. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool:

B. Outer Tube 57001-1645)
B. Cylinder Unit
Suspension Oil C. Outer Tube
SS-19 (1 L): P/No. 44091-0009
• Inject the air of specified pressure to the outer
chamber by using a suitable air pump.
• Temporarily install the cylinder unit to the outer
tube using the top plug wrench, 50 mm (Special NOTICE
tool: 57001-1645).
Rapid pressurization of the front fork can
damage it. To avoid damaging the front fork,
do not pressurize the front fork quickly with
compressed air; use a manually operated air
pump.
A. Air Pump A. Fork Oil

B. Air Valve (Outer) B. Balance Chamber
Outer Chamber Air Pressure Suspension Oil

Air Pressure SS-19 (1 L): P/No. 44091-0009
50 kPa (0.51 kgf/cm², 7.3 psi)
(Standard Setting)
Adjustable Range
0 ∼ 130 kPa (0 ∼ 1.33 kgf/cm², • Hold
bolt.
the axle holder with a vise, remove the plug
0 ∼ 18.9 psi)
WARNING
• Pour the fork oil of 10 mL (0.34 US oz.) into the
balance chamber. Clamping the axle holder too tight can dam-
NOTE
using a vice.
• Tighten the plug bolt to the specified torque.

Tightening Torque
j Plug Bolt:
45 N·m (4.6 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)
A. Air Pump
B. Air Valve (Balance)
Balance Chamber Air Pressure

Air Pressure 900 kPa (9.18 kgf/cm², 131
(Standard Setting) psi)
A. Plug Bolt
B. Balance Chamber 530 ∼ 1 400 kPa (5.40 ∼ 14.28
Adjustable Range
kgf/cm², 76.9 ∼ 203 psi)
• Inject the air of specified pressure to the balance
chamber by using the suitable air pump.
• Confirm
Install the Air valve cap.
NOTICE • Install thethefront
stroke of the front fork.
• Tighten the frontforks to the motorcycle.
Rapid pressurization of the front fork can • specified torque. clamp bolts (lower) to the
fork
damage it. To avoid damaging the front fork,
do not pressurize the front fork quickly with Tightening Torque
compressed air; use a manually operated air Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):
pump. 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
• Tighten the front fork top plug using the top plug
wrench, 50 mm (special tool: 57001-1645) to the
plug wrench, 50 mm (special tool: 57001-1645),
reduce the torque to 90% of the specified value
specified torque. [67 N·m (6.8 kgf·m, 49 ft·lb)] due to the distance
between the center of the square hole, where the
j
torque wrench is fitted, and that of the octagonal
hole of the wrench.
This torque value [67 N·m (6.8 kgf·m, 49 ft·lb)] is
applicable when you use a torque wrench whose
length gives leverage of approximately 310 mm
(12.2 in.) between the grip point to the center of
the coupling square.
To obtain the correct tightening torque with your
torque wrench, you need to calculate as follows.
Formula:
a × b ÷ (b + c) = d
[a] Specified torque
[b] Length from center of square hole to grip
A. Cylinder Unit
B. Outer Tube point
C. Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm (Special Tool: [c] Offset = 44 mm
57001-1645) [d] Tightening torque
For an example:
Tightening Torque 76 N·m × 310 ÷ (310 + 44) = 67 N·m
Cylinder Unit:
76 N·m (7.7 kgf·m, 56 ft·lb)
• Tighten the front fork clamp (upper) bolts to the
specified torque.
Tightening Torque
NOTE Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):
The cylinder unit torque is specified to 76 N·m (7.7 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
kgf·m, 56 ft·lb) however, when you use the top
• Take
pads.
out wood wedge between the disc brake
j • Apply high-temperature grease to the oil seals of

the wheel.
• Install
hub.
the collars on the left and right side of the
• Put the front wheel assembly between the fork

legs, and insert the front brake disc into the front
brake pads.
• Insert the front axle from the right side of the mo-
torcycle.
• Tighten the front axle nut to the specified torque.
Tightening Torque
A. Top Plug Wrench Front Axle Nut:
B. Distance 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
C. Torque Wrench Length
D. Grip Point • Tighten the left front axle clamp bolts to the spec-
ified torque.
• Install the brake caliper to the fork leg, and tighten
the brake caliper bolts to the specified torque. Tightening Torque
Tightening Torque Left Front Axle Clamp Bolts:
23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
Brake Caliper Bolts:
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
NOTE
Do not apply the front brake during this process
to stop the motorcycle from rolling forward. Put a j
block in front of the wheel to stop it from moving.
A. Collars
B. Caps
C. Axle
D. Right Front Axle Clamp Bolts
E. Axle Nut
F. Left Front Axle Clamp Bolts
G. Oil Seal A. Pump up and down
B. Block
NOTE
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times
• Tighten
torque.
the right axle clamp bolts to the specified
to ensure even tightening torque. Tightening Torque

• Remove the jack and attachment. Right Front Axle Clamp Bolts:
• Install the parts removed. 23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
• Before tightening the clamp bolts on the right fork
leg, pump the forks up and down 4 or 5 times to
allow the right fork leg to find a neutral position on
NOTE
the front axle. Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times
to ensure even tightening torque.
• Check the front brake for good braking power and

no brake drag.
j
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications
of the brake lever before the brake pads con-
tact the disc, which could result in increased
stopping distance and cause an accident re-
sulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to
ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is
obtained by pumping the lever until the pads
are against the disc.
• Adjust the compression and

force adjusters.
rebound damping
A. Standard Fork Height
Fork Height Adjustment Standard Fork Height

Steering is greatly affected by the fork height (how 5 mm (0.2 in.)*
much the outer fork tubes protrude above the up-
per fork clamp). The less the fork tube protrudes, * below the surface of the top plug
the lighter the front end becomes and the greater
the tendency for understeering and washout due to NOTE
weight biasing. Increasing the amount of fork tube Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times
protrusion has opposite effects. to ensure even tightening torque.
Be sure that the front tire does not touch the fender
when the fork is fully compressed. Make this adjust-
ment in 10 mm (0.39 in.) steps.
NOTICE
The right and left fork tubes must be adjusted
evenly.
Rear Shock Absorber Adjustment

Rear Suspension (UNI-TRAK®) The spring preload of the shock absorber can be
adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an op-
This motorcycle’s rear suspension system is called tional one to suit various riding conditions. In addi-
j
“UNI-TRAK®” and consists of a rear shock absorber tion, the damping force can be adjusted easily, mak-
unit, a swingarm, two lever rods and a lever. ing it unnecessary to change the oil viscosity.
The operating characteristics of the UNI-TRAK®
suspension are similar to those of the front fork.
Rebound Damping Adjustment
To adjust the rear shock absorber rebound damp-
However, a linkage system is used to achieve pro-
ing, turn the rebound damping adjuster at the bottom
gressive springing characteristics.
of the rear shock absorber with a standard tip screw-
Rear Shock Absorber Inspection driver.
NOTICE
Sticking muds or dusts on the sliding surface
of the rear shock absorber could damage to
the oil seal, leading to an oil leak. Clean the
sliding surface after each ride.
• Pump the seat down and up by 4 or 5 times, and

inspect the smooth stroke.
• Iftheit oildoes not smoothly or noise is found, inspect
leak and rear shock absorber mounting.
• Visually
leakage.
inspect the rear shock absorber for oil
• IfKawasaki
necessary, repair or replace by an authorized
dealer. A. Rebound Damping Adjuster
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in
accordance with the following table.
Rebound Damping Adjuster Settings *: Counterclockwise from the fully seated position
NOTICE
j
Do not force the rebound damping force ad-
juster beyond the fully seated position, or the
adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
NOTE
Adjustment of the rebound damping adjuster for
the rear suspension will slightly affect the com-
pression damping force. Always make any damp-
ing adjustments in small steps and test their ef-
fects before using them in competition.
A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully Compression Damping Adjustment (Gas

Clockwise) Reservoir)
B. Softer (Counterclockwise) There are two adjustments you can make to the
C. Harder (Clockwise) rear shock absorber gas reservoir.
D. Standard Setting To adjust the high speed compression damping,
turn the high speed compression damping adjuster.
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range To adjust the low speed compression damping,
22 clicks or more. turn the low speed compression damping adjuster
Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting with a standard tip screwdriver.
10 clicks*
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in High Speed Compression Damping Adjuster
accordance with the following table. Settings
j
A. Compression Damping Adjuster for High Speed A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully
B. Compression Damping Adjuster for Low Speed Clockwise)
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in C. Harder (Clockwise)
accordance with the following table. D. Standard Setting
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range 4
turns or more.
Standard High Speed Compression Damping
Adjuster Setting
2 turns out*
*: Counterclockwise from the fully seated position

Low Speed Compression Damping Adjuster *: Counterclockwise from the fully seated position
Settings
NOTICE
j
Do not force the compression damping force
adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or
the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
NOTE
Adjustment of the compression damping adjuster
for the rear suspension will slightly affect the re-
bound damping force. Always make any damping
adjustments in small steps and test their effects
before using them in competition.
Spring Preload Adjustment

A. Seated Position (Adjuster Turned Fully • Remove the rear frame with air cleaner housing
(see Throttle Body Assy section).
Clockwise)
C. Harder (Clockwise) NOTICE
D. Standard Setting If the clamp is not removed from the air
*: Number of turns counterclockwise usable range cleaner housing, the rear shock absorber
19 clicks or more. spring may be damaged.
Standard Low Speed Compression Damping
Adjuster Setting
12 clicks*
• Raise the rear wheel off the ground using a jack

(special tool: 57001-1238) and attachment (spe-
• Using the hook wrench (special tool: 57001
-1539), turn the spring preload adjusting nut as
cial tool: 57001-1608). required. Turning the adjusting nut down in-
j
• Using the hook wrenches (special tools: 57001
-1101, 1539), loosen the locknut on the rear shock
creases the spring preload.
absorber.
A. Hook Wrench (Special Tool: 57001-1539)

B. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut
A. Spring Preload Adjusting Nut
B. Locknut • The standard adjusting nut position from the cen-
ter of the upper rear shock absorber pivot point is
C. Hook Wrenches (Special Tools: 57001-1101,
1539) 125.4 mm (4.937 in.).
• The adjustable range is as shown in the table be-
low.
Rear Shock Absorber Spring Adjustable Range • Tighten the locknut securely.
K = 49 N/mm 125.8 ∼ 135.8 mm • and down to make
After making the adjustment, move the spring up
sure that it is properly seated.
j (K = 5.0 kgf/mm) (4.953 ∼ 5.346 in.)
K = 51 N/mm 125.8 ∼ 133.8 mm
• Install the rear frame with air cleaner housing (see
Throttle Body Assy section).
(K = 5.2 kgf/mm) (4.953 ∼ 5.268 in.) • Install the muffler (see Exhaust System section).
K = 53 N/mm* 124.8 ∼ 139.5 mm • Install the removed parts.
(K = 5.4 kgf/mm) (4.913 ∼ 5.492 in.) Optional Rear Shock Absorber Springs
K = 55 N/mm 125.8 ∼ 139.6 mm Various rear shock absorber springs are available
(K = 5.6 kgf/mm) (4.953 ∼ 5.496 in.) to achieve suitable rear shock absorber action in ac-
cordance with the rider’s weight and track condition.
*: Standard A harder spring stiffens the shock absorber action
and accelerates the rebound damping.
A softer spring softens the shock absorber action
and slows down the rebound damping.
WARNING
Improper removal or installation of the rear
shock absorber spring may cause the spring
and/or related parts to be ejected at high ve-
locity. Always wear eye and face protection
when working on the rear shock absorber.
Removal and installation of the rear shock
absorber spring should be performed by an
authorized Kawasaki dealer.
A. Adjusting Nut Position

B. Center of Upper Rear Shock Absorber Pivot
C. Spring End
Spokes and Rims

Wheels The spokes on both wheels must all be securely
and evenly tightened and not be allowed to loosen.
Unevenly tightened or loose spokes will cause the
j
Tire Air Pressure rim to warp, the nipples and spokes to fatigue more
Tire air pressure affects traction, handling, and tire
quickly, and the spokes to break.
life. Adjust the tire air pressure to suit track condi-
tions and rider preference, but keep it close within
the recommended range.
• To check the tire air pressure, remove the air valve
cap, and make sure to tighten the cap securely
after checking the tire pressure.
• Reduce the tire air pressure to increase the tire
tread surface on the ground when riding on a wet,
muddy, sandy or slippery track.
• Increase the tire air pressure to prevent damage
or punctures (though the tires will skid more easily)
when riding on a pebbly or hard track.
Tire Air Pressure Adjustable Range
80 ∼ 100 kPa (0.8 ∼ 1.0 kgf/cm², 12 ∼ 14 psi)
A. Spoke Wrench
NOTE
Tire air pressure should be checked when the tires
are cold, before you ride the motorcycle.
Bead Protector
There is a bead protector nut on the both wheels.
• ofSettheuprim
the dial gauge on the inner circumference
and rotate the wheel to measure its ra-
The bead protector nut prevents the tire and tube dial runout. The difference between the highest
j from slipping on the rim and damaging the valve and lowest readings is the amount of runout.
stem. Valve stem damage may cause the tube to
leak, necessitating tube replacement. In order to
• A certain amount of rim warpage (runout) can be
corrected by recentering the rim, that is, by loos-
keep the tire and tube in position on the rim, inspect ening some spokes and tightening other to change
the bead protector nut before riding and tighten it if the position of certain portions of the rim. If the rim
necessary. Tighten the valve stem nut finger tight is badly bent, however, it should be replaced.
only.
NOTE
The welding spot of the rim may show exces-
sive runout. Disregard this when measuring rim
runout.
Rim Runout
A. Bead Protector Nut
Rim Runout
Set up a dial gauge on the side of the rim and
rotate the wheel to measure its axial runout. The
difference between the highest and lowest readings A. Rim
is the amount of runout. B. Axial Runout
C. Radial Runout
Rim Runout Maximum Limit

Axial
*TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
Radial j
*: Total Indicator Reading
A. Radial Rim Runout Measurement
A. Axial Rim Runout Measurement

Hoses Inspection
j Check the brake and fuel hoses for cracks or de-
terioration, and the connections for looseness in ac-
cordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
• Inspect the brake hose and fittings for deteriora-
tion, cracks and signs of leakage by bending or
twisting the hoses.
• If damaged, replace the hoses.
A. Leak
B. Cracks
C. Bulges
• Check that the hose are securely connected and

bolts are tightened correctly.
Tightening Torques of Nuts and Bolts

j
Location of nuts and bolts
Before the first ride of each day of operation, check the tightness of the nuts and bolts shown below. Check
also that all cotter pins are in place and in good condition.
1. Front Fork Clamp Bolts 7. Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts

2. Handlebar Clamp Bolts 8. Front Axle Nut
3. Rear Frame Mounting Bolts 9. Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
4. Rear Shock Absorber Nuts 10. Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
5. Spoke Nipples 11. Rear Sprocket Nuts
6. Front Axle Clamp Bolts
1. Steering Stem Head Nut 6. Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts

2. Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts 7. Rear Axle Nut
3. Steering Stem Nut 8. Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
4. Handlebar Holder Nuts 9. Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
5. Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts 10. Brake Pedal Bolt
Torque table
Tighten all nuts and bolts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. An insufficiently tightened
nut or bolt may become damaged or fall out, possibly resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the
rider. An overtightened nut or bolt may become damaged, broken, or fall out.
j
Fastener N·m kgf·m ft·lb Remarks
Front Axle Clamp Bolts 23 2.3 17 AL
Front Axle Nut 78 8.0 58
Rear Axle Nut 108 11.0 79.7
Spoke Nipples 2.2 0.22 19 in·lb
Rear Sprocket Nuts 34 3.5 25 R
Brake Pedal Bolt 25 2.5 18 G, L
Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts 9.8 1.0 87 in·lb L
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts 25 2.5 18
Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts 8.8 0.90 78 in·lb S
Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts 23 2.3 17 L
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts 9.8 1.0 87 in·lb
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower) 20 2.0 15 AL
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper) 20 2.0 15 AL
Rear Shock Absorber Nut (Lower) 34 3.5 25 R
Rear Shock Absorber Nut (Upper) 39 4.0 29 R
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut 59 6.0 44 R
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut 98 10 72 R
Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts 59 6.0 44 R
Handlebar Clamp Bolts 25 2.5 18 AL
Fastener N·m kgf·m ft·lb Remarks

Handlebar Holder Nuts 34 3.5 25 R
j Steering Stem Head Nut 98 10 72
Steering Stem Nut 4.9 0.50 43 in·lb
Rear Frame Mounting Bolts 34 3.5 25
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
Cleaning Your Motorcycle

• Avoid applying degreaser to seals, brake pads,
and tires.
• Avoid all harsh chemicals, solvents, detergents,
and household cleaning products such as ammo-
j
General Precautions nia-based window cleaners.
Frequent and proper care of your Kawasaki mo-
torcycle will enhance its appearance, optimize over- • Gasoline, brake fluid, and coolant will damage the
finish of painted and plastic surfaces: wash them
all performance, and extend its useful life. Covering
off immediately.
your motorcycle with a high quality, breathable mo-
torcycle cover will help protect its finish from harmful • Avoid wire brushes, steel wool, and all other abra-
sive pads or brushes.
UV rays, pollutants, and reduce the amount of dust
reaching its surfaces. • Use care when washing the plastic parts as they
can easily be scratched.
WARNING • Avoid using pressure washers; water can pene-
trate seals and electrical components and damage
Build-up of debris or flammable material in your motorcycle.
and around the vehicle chassis, engine, and
exhaust can cause mechanical problems
• Avoid spraying water in delicate areas such as
in air intakes, throttle body assy, brake compo-
and increase the risk of fire. When operating nents, electrical components, muffler outlets, and
the vehicle in conditions that allow debris or fuel tank openings.
flammable material to collect in and around
the vehicle, inspect the engine, electrical Washing Your Motorcycle
component and exhaust areas frequently. • Rinse your bike with cold water from a garden
hose to remove any loose dirt.
If debris or flammable materials have col-
lected, park the vehicle outside and stop • Mix a mild neutral detergent (designed for motor-
cycles or automobiles) and water in a bucket. Use
the engine. Allow the engine to cool, then
remove any collected debris. Do not park a soft cloth or sponge to wash your motorcycle. If
or store the vehicle in an enclosed space needed, use a mild degreaser to remove any oil or
prior to inspecting for build-up of debris or grease which build up.
flammable materials. • After washing, rinse your motorcycle thoroughly
with clean water to remove any residue (residue
• Be sure the engine and exhaust are cool before
washing.
from the detergent can damage parts of your mo-
torcycle).
• Use a soft cloth to dry your motorcycle. As you dry,

inspect your motorcycle for chips and scratches.
Painted Surfaces
After washing your motorcycle, coat painted sur-
Do not let the water air dry as this can damage faces, both metal and plastic, with a commercially
j the painted surfaces. available motorcycle/automotive wax. Wax should
• Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes.
The heat from the engine will help dry moist areas.
be applied once every three months or as conditions
require. Avoid surfaces with “satin” or “flat” finishes.
• Carefully ride your motorcycle at a slow speed and
apply the brakes several times. This helps the
Always use non-abrasive products and apply them
according to the instructions on the container.
brakes dry and restores its normal operating per-
formance.
Plastic Parts
After washing use a soft cloth to gently dry plastic
• Lubricate the drive chain to prevent rusting.
parts. When dry, treat the non-painted plastic parts
NOTE with an approved plastic cleaner/polisher product.
After riding in an area where the roads are salted
or near the ocean, immediately wash your motor- NOTICE
cycle with cold water. Do not use warm water as it Plastic parts may deteriorate and break if
accelerates the chemical reaction of the salt. Af- they come in contact with chemical sub-
ter drying, apply a corrosion protection spray on all stances or household cleaning products
metal and chrome surfaces to prevent corrosion. such as gasoline, brake fluid, window clean-
ers, thread-locking agents, or other harsh
Semi-gloss Finish chemicals. If a plastic part comes in contact
To clean the semi-gloss finish: with any harsh chemical substance, wash it
• When washing the motorcycle, always use a mild
neutral detergent and water.
off immediately with water and a mild neu-
tral detergent, and then inspect for damage.
• The semi-gloss finish effect may be lost when it is
excessively rubbed.
Avoid using abrasive pads or brushes to
clean plastic parts, as they will damage the
• Ifdealer.
any doubt, consult an authorized Kawasaki part’s finish.
Chrome and Aluminum

Chrome and uncoated aluminum parts can be Lubrication
treated with a chrome/aluminum polish. Coated
aluminum should be washed with a mild neutral de- Lubricate the areas shown in the illustrations of
j
tergent and finished with a spray polish. Aluminum this section with either motor oil or regular grease,
wheels, both painted and unpainted can be cleaned after each race and whenever the vehicle has been
with special non-acid based wheel spray cleaners. operated under wet or rainy conditions, especially
after using a high-pressure spray washer. Before
Leather, Vinyl, and Rubber lubricating a part, clean off any rust with rust remover
If your motorcycle has leather accessories, special
and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.
care must be taken. Use a leather cleaner/treatment
to clean and care for leather accessories. Washing General Lubrication
leather parts with detergent and water will damage Apply motor oil to the following pivots:
them, shortening their life. • Clutch Lever
Vinyl parts should be washed with the rest of the
motorcycle, then treated with a vinyl treatment.
• Front Brake Lever
The sidewalls of tires and other rubber compo-

nents should be treated with a rubber protectant to
help prolong their useful life.
WARNING
Rubber protectants can be slippery and, if
used on the tread area, cause loss of traction
resulting in accident causing injury or death.
Do not apply rubber protectant to any tread
area.
• Rear Brake Pedal • Shift Pedal

• Kick Pedal Cylinder Joint Pin
Rear Master
j • Footpeg
•
Apply an aerosol cable lubricant with a pressure Apply grease to the following points:
lubricator on all cables: • Clutch Inner Cable Upper End
• Clutch Cable • Throttle Inner Cable Upper End
j
• Throttle Cable
Cable Lubrication
A. Upper End
Drive Chain Lubrication
Lubricate the drive chain after riding through rain DFI Self-Diagnosis
or on wet track, or any time that the chain appears
j dry with a high quality lubricant for drive chains. This motorcycle equips the DFI trouble self
• Apply lubricant to the sides of the rollers so that it
will penetrate to the rollers and bushings.
-diagnosis system. Trouble diagnosis can be con-
ducted as the following procedures.
• Wipe off any excess lubricant.
Self-diagnosis Outline
The self-diagnosis has two modes and can
be switched to another mode by grounding the
self-diagnosis terminal.
User Mode
The ECU connected orange FI warning indicator
light goes on when DFI system and ignition system
and ignition system parts are faulty. In case of se-
rious troubles, the ECU stops the injection/ignition
operation.
Dealer Mode Self-diagnosis Procedures

The orange FI warning indicator light emits service
code(s) to show the problem(s) which the DFI sys-
•Disconnect the capacitor lead connector.
tem, and ignition system has at the moment of diag-

j
nosis.
A. Capacitor Lead Connector
A. Orange Launch Control Mode/FI Warning

Indicator Light
• Connect the power supply harness (optional part:

26011-0246) to the capacitor lead connector of the
NOTE
Use a fully charged battery when conducting self
main harness. -diagnosis. Otherwise, the light blinks very slowly
j
• Connect the power supply harness (optional part:
26011-0246) to the 12 V battery as shown in the
or doesn’t blink.
Keep the self-diagnosis terminal grounded during
figure. self-diagnosis.
• Connect the O/Y lead (red cap) to the positive (+)
terminal first. • Disconnect the self-diagnosis connector (Y lead).
A. Power Supply Harness (Optional Part: A. Self-diagnosis Connector (Y Lead)

26011-0246)
B. Capacitor Lead Connector
C. 12 V Battery
• To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode, ground

the self-diagnosis terminal for more than 2 sec-
onds, and then keep it grounded continuously.
j
• Count the blinks of the orange light to read the
service code. Keep the lead ground until you finish
reading the service code.
A. Orange Launch Control Mode/FI Warning

Indicator Light
B. Self-diagnosis Terminal
How to Read Service Codes
j • Service codes are shown by a series of long and short blinks of the orange FI warning indicator light
as shown below.
• When
Read 10th digit and unit digit as the orange FI warning indicator light blinks.
• startingthere are a number of problems, all the service codes can be stored and the display will begin
from the lowest number service codes in the numerical order. Then after completing all codes, the
display is repeated until the self-diagnosis terminal is open.
• If there is no problem, no code and unlight.
• For example, if two problems occurred in the order of 21, 12, the service codes are displayed from
the lowest number in the order listed.
(12 21) (12 21) ··· (repeated)
• Ifindicator
the problem is with the following parts, the ECU cannot memorize these problems, the orange FI warning
light doesn’t go on, and no service codes can be displayed.
ECU Power Source Wiring and Ground Wiring (see Service Manual)
NOTE
Even if the battery or the ECU is disconnected, or the problem is solved, all service codes remain in the ECU.
j
Service Code Table
Service Orange FI Warning
Problems
Code Indicator Light
11 Throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
12 Intake air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
13 Intake air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
14 Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
21 Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
25 Gear position switch malfunction, wiring open or short
31 Vehicle-down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
41 Fuel injector malfunction, wiring open or short

Service Orange FI Warning

Problems
Code Indicator Light
j
46 Fuel pump malfunction, wiring open or short
51 Ignition coil malfunction, wiring open or short
NOTE
The ECU may be involved in these problems. If all the parts and circuits checked out good, be sure to check
the ECU for ground and power supply. If the ground and power supply are checked good, replace the ECU
(see Service Manual).
When no service code is displayed, the electrical parts of the DFI system has no fault, and the mechanical
parts of the DFI system and the engine are suspect.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 181
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
NOTE Spark missing or weak:
This troubleshooting guide is not exhaustive and •Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad-
justed
does not give every possible cause for each prob- j
lem listed. It is meant simply as a quick guide to •Spark plug cap or high-tension wiring defective
assist you in troubleshooting for some of the more •Spark plug cap not contacting properly
common difficulties. •Spark plug type incorrect
•Crankshaft sensor defective
Starting failure or difficulties - •ECU defective
•Ignition coil defective
Engine does not turn over:
• Valve •Engine stop button wiring defective
seized
• Cylinder or seized •Flywheel magneto damaged
Valve lifter
• Crankshaft seized
piston seized
•Wiring shorted or interrupted
• Connecting rod small end seized Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

• Connecting rod big end seized • Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not
• Camshaft seized installed
• Transmission gear or bearing seized
• Kick shaft return spring broken Compression low:
• Kick ratchet gear not engaging •Spark plug loose
• Improper installation of vehicle-down sensor •Cylinder head insufficiently tightened
• •Cylinder bolt loose
•Cylinder or piston worn
Fuel does not flow:
• •No valve clearance
•
No fuel in tank
•Crankshaft oil seal leak
•
Fuel tank cap air vent obstructed
•Valve spring broken or weak
•
Fuel line clogged
Break down of a fuel pump
•Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
• Break down of a fuel injector
•Piston ring worn, weak, broken, or sticking
•Piston ring side clearance excessive
•Cylinder head gasket damaged
182 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
• Cylinder head warped • Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
• Decompression damaged
Cylinder gasket carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
• trouble • Piston ring worn, weak, broken, or sticking
Poor low-speed performance - • Piston ring side clearance excessive
• Cylinder head gasket damaged
j Spark weak: • Cylinder gasket
Cylinder head warped
•Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad- • Decompression damaged
justed • trouble
•Spark plug cap or high-tension wiring defective
•Spark plug cap shorted or not contacting properly Other:
•Spark plug type incorrect •ECU defective
•Crankshaft sensor defective •Brake dragging
•ECU defective •Clutch slipping
•Ignition coil defective •Engine overheating
•Flywheel magneto defective •Engine oil level too high
•Wiring connector not in good contact •Engine oil viscosity too high
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

•Drive chain trouble
Poor or no high-speed performance -
• Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not
installed Firing incorrect:
• Fuel tank cap air vent obstructed • Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad-
• Throttle body assy holder loose justed
• Air cleaner duct loose • Spark plug cap or high-tension wiring defective
• Fuel pump defective • Spark plug cap
Spark plug shorted or not contacting properly
• ECU defectivetype incorrect
Compression low: • Ignition coil defective
•Spark plug loose •
•Cylinder head insufficiently tightened • Crankshaft sensor defective
•Cylinder bolt loose • Flywheel magneto defective
•Cylinder or piston worn • Wiring connector not in good contact
•No valve clearance
•Valve spring broken or weak
Fuel/air mixture incorrect: • Engine oil level too high

• Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not • Crankshaftviscosity
Engine oil too high
installed • Drive chain trouble or damaged
bearing worn
• Fuel contaminated with water or foreign matter •
• Fuel tank cap air vent obstructed
• Throttle body assy holder loose Knocking:
j
• Air cleaner duct loose •Carbon built up in combustion chamber
• Fuel line clogged •Fuel quality poor or type incorrect
• Fuel pump defective •Spark plug type incorrect
Compression low:
•ECU defective
Engine overheating -
• Spark plug loose
• Cylinder head insufficiently tightened Firing incorrect:
• Cylinder orboltpiston
Cylinder loose • Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap improperly ad-
• No valve clearanceworn justed
• Valve spring broken or weak • Spark plug type incorrect
• Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or • ECU defective
• carbon accumulation on the seating surface) Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
• Piston ring worn, weak, broken, or sticking • Throttle body assy holder loose
• Piston ring side clearance excessive • Air cleaner element clogged, poorly sealed, or not
• Cylinder head
Cylinder gasket damaged installed
• Cylinder gasketwarped
head • Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
• Decompression damaged
• trouble Compression high:
Improper acceleration:
•Carbon built up in combustion chamber
• Throttle valve does not fully open Engine overloaded:

• Air cleaner element clogged • Brake dragging
• Fuel contaminated with water or foreign matter • Engineslipping
Clutch
• Brake dragging • Engine oil
oil level too high
• Clutch slipping • Drive chainviscosity too high
• Engine overheating • trouble
Lubrication inadequate: • Clutch hub spline damaged
• Engine oil level too low
Gear shifting faulty -
• Engine oil quality poor or type incorrect
Transmission does not go into gear; shift pedal
Coolant inadequate: does not return:
j •Coolant level too low • Clutch not disengaging
•Coolant deteriorated • Shift fork bent or seized
• Gear stuck on the shaft
Cooling system component defective: • Shift lever broken
•Radiator clogged • Pawl guide plate broken
•Radiator cap defective • Shift return spring broken or weak
•Water pump not rotating • Shift return spring pin loose
Clutch operation faulty - • Shift pawl broken
• Shift pawl spring weak
Clutch slipping: • Shift drum broken
• No clutch lever play • Gear positioning lever operation defective
• Clutch cable improperly adjusted
• Clutch cable defective Transmission jumps out of gear:
• Clutch plate worn or warped • Shift fork worn
• Clutch spring broken or weak • Gear groove worn
• Clutch release mechanism defective • Gear dogs and/or dog grooves worn
• Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn • Shift drum groove worn
• Gear positioning lever spring broken or weak
Clutch not disengaging properly: • Shift fork guide pin worn
• Clutch lever play excessive • Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
• Engine oil deteriorated
Clutch spring tension uneven
• Engine oil viscosity too high Transmission skips gears:
• Engine oil level too high • Gear positioning lever spring broken or weak
• Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft • Pawl guide plate worn
• Clutch release mechanism defective Engine noise abnormal -
• Clutch hub nut loose
• Clutch plate warped or rough Knocking:
• • Carbon built up in combustion chamber
• Fuel quality poor or type incorrect Abnormal drive train noise -

• Engineplug
Spark type incorrect
Clutch noise:
• ECU defective
overheating
• Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
• • Clutch housing gear excessive
Piston slap: • Metal chip jammed in clutch housing gear teeth
j
• Piston clearance excessive
Transmission noise:
• Cylinder or piston worn
• Crankcase bearing worn or damaged
• Connecting rod bent
• Transmission gear worn or chipped
• Piston pin or piston pin holes worn
• Metal chip jammed in gear teeth
Valve noise: • Engine oil level or viscosity too low
• Valve clearance incorrect • Kick ratchet gear not properly disengaging from
kick gear
• Camshaft bearing
Valve spring broken or weak
• Kick shaft idle gear worn or chipped
• Valve lifter worn or cam face worn
• Drive chain noise:
Other noise: • Drive chain slack improperly adjusted
•Connecting rod small end clearance excessive • Drive chain worn
•Connecting rod big end clearance excessive • Rear and/or engine sprocket(s) worn
•Piston ring worn, broken or stuck • Drive chain inefficiently lubricated
•Piston seized or damaged • Rear wheel misaligned
•Cylinder head gasket leaking Frame noise abnormal -

•Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head
Front fork noise:
•Crankshaft runout excessive
• Oil level or viscosity too low
•Engine mounts loose
• Front fork air pressure incorrect
•Crankshaft bearing worn
•Primary gear worn or chipped
Rear shock absorber noise:
•Camshaft chain tensioner defective
•Shock absorber damaged
•Camshaft chain, sprocket, chain guide worn
•Decompression spring broken
Disc brake noise:
•Flywheel magneto loose
• Pad installed incorrectly
• Pad surface glazed Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively:

• Brake caliper
Brake disc warped •Tire worn
• Brake cylinderdefective •Swingarm sleeve or needle bearing damaged
• damaged •Rim warped or out of balance
•Front and/or rear axle runout excessive
j
Other noise: •Wheel bearing worn
•Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. improperly mounted or •Handlebar clamp loose
tightened •Steering stem head nut loose
Exhaust smoke - •Spoke loose
Excessively white: Handlebar pulls to one side:

•Piston oil ring worn • Frame bent
•Cylinder worn • Swingarm
Rear wheel misaligned
•Valve oil seal damaged • Swingarm pivot
bent or twisted
•Valve guide worn • Steering maladjusted
shaft runout excessive
•Engine oil level too high • Steering stem bent
• Front fork bent
Black smoke: •
• Air cleaner element clogged
Shock absorption unsatisfactory (suspension
Brownish: too hard):
• Air cleaner duct loose • Front fork oil excessive
• Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing • Front fork oil viscosity too high
Poor handling and/or stability - • Front fork bent
• Front fork air pressure too high
Handlebar hard to turn: • Tire air pressure too high
•Cable, hose, wiring incorrectly routed • Rear shock absorber improperly adjusted
•Steering stem nut too tight
•Steering stem bearing damaged Shock absorption unsatisfactory (suspension
•Steering stem bearing inadequately lubricated too soft):
•Steering stem bent • Front fork oil level insufficient and/or front fork
•Tire air pressure too low leaking oil
• Front fork oil viscosity too low
• Rear
Front fork air pressure weak Poor braking performance -
• Rear shock
shock absorber spring weak
• Air in the brake line
• Rear shock absorber
absorber leaking oil or gas
• Brake fluid
Brake pad or disc worn
• Tire air pressure too low
improperly adjusted
• Brake disc warped
leaking
• • Brake pads contaminated
• Brake fluid deteriorated j
• Primary and/or secondary master cylinder cup(s)
• damaged
• Master cylinder scratched
• Brake maladjusted (lever or pedal play excessive)
188 TUNING
TUNING
Suspension
• The front and rear suspension should always be
balanced; when the one is changed, the other one
might need to be changed similarly.
Introduction • When evaluating suspension performance, the
rider must make every effort to ride consistently
No area of machine adjustment is more critical
and to recognize the effects of his input. Such
than proper suspension tuning. An improperly tuned
j things as changes in rider position and increasing
suspension will keep even the best rider from attain-
fatigue may lead to incorrect judgments about
ing the full benefit of his machine’s ability. Match the
necessary adjustments.
suspension to the rider and the course conditions.
• When the proper settings have been determined
for a particular track, they should be written down
WHILE TUNING THE SUSPENSION, KEEP THE
for reference when returning to the same track.
FOLLOWING IMPORTANT POINTS IN MIND:
•If the machine is new, “break-in” the suspension • Lubricate the bearings in the swingarm and UNI
-TRAK® linkage after break-in and after every 3
with at least one hour of riding before making any
races to prevent friction from affecting suspension
setting evaluations or changes.
performance.
•The three major factors which must be considered
in suspension tuning are RIDER WEIGHT, RIDER Front Fork
ABILITY, and TRACK CONDITIONS. Additional
Right Front Fork Air Pressure -
influences include the RIDER’S STYLE and PO-
SITIONING on the machine. • Adjust the front fork air pressure (see Front Sus-
pension section).
•Before changing the suspension settings, test
changing your riding posture or position to check Left Front Fork Oil Amount -
whether it is the cause of the problem or not. The fork oil amount in the outer tube is adjustable.
•It is a wise practice to adjust the suspension to
suit the rider’s strong points. If you are fast in
A change in the fork oil amount will not affect the air
spring force much at the top of fork travel, but it will
the corners, adjust the suspension to allow fast have a great effect at the bottom of it.
cornering. • When the oil amount is raised, the air spring be-
•Make setting changes in small increments. A little
bit goes a long way, and a setting is easily over
comes more progressive, and the front fork action
feels “harder” in the later stage of fork travel, near
adjusted. the bottom.
TUNING 189
• When the oil amount is lowered, the air spring be-

comes less progressive, and the front fork action
Troubleshooting Improper Settings
Listed below are some symptoms of improper sus-
does not feel as “hard” in the later stage of fork pension settings and the most likely means of cor-
travel. recting them. The proper settings can be achieved
Fork Oil Amount Effect on Fork Stroke by applying the information given in this chapter in a
scientific, methodical manner. This does not mean,
however, that you must be a scientist or trained tech-
nician to succeed. Simply take time to think about
the changes you believe are necessary, check them
against the symptoms and cures described here, j
make the changes in small increments, and take
note of the changes and their effects.
Front Fork Improper Adjustment Symptoms -
Too Hard
Spring too stiff:
• Rebound or compression damping improperly ad-
justed.
• Fork air pressure high
A. Weight
• Fork oil amount too high
B. Fork Stroke Suspension stiffens at the end of the fork stroke:
C. Increase Amount • Fork oil amount too high
D. Standard Oil Amount
E. Decrease Amount
• air pressure high
Fork
Spring OK, but suspension too hard:
Changing the fork oil amount works effectively at • Fork oil deteriorated
the end of fork travel. If fork bottoming is experi-
enced, raise the fork oil amount by 5 mL (0.2 US
• Fork air pressure high
oz.) each.
Left Front Fork Oil Amount Adjustment -
• Adjust the left front fork oil amount (see Front Sus-
pension section).
190 TUNING
Hence, if the actual rider weighs considerably more
Too Soft or less, or if his riding experience and ability are
The front fork dives excessively during braking much above or below the intermediate level, it is
and deceleration: likely that a few basic suspension adjustments will
• Fork oil amount too low be necessary.
• Fork air pressure low
Basic Readjustment of the Suspension
• Fork oil deteriorated
• Rebound and/or compression damping improperly
adjusted.
Suspension
Experience
Tuning According to Riding
j Lower air pressure with
Rear Shock Absorber Improper Adjustment
Symptoms - Front (right front fork) weak
Too Hard Beginner rebound damping
Suspension too stiff: Softer spring with weak
Rear
• Compression damping too high rebound damping
• Spring too hard
Higher air pressure (right
Spring OK but suspension too hard: Experienced Front front fork)
Rider
• Unbalance between the spring and the rebound
damping (rebound damping too hard)
Rear Harder spring
• Spring preload too hard Suspension Tuning According to Rider Weight

Too Soft Higher air pressure (right
Front
Bottoming occurs on landing after a high jump Heavy Rider front fork)
(otherwise OK): Rear Harder spring
• Spring preload too soft or compression damping
too soft Lower air pressure (right
Front
• Spring too soft Light Rider front fork)
• Shock absorber oil deteriorated Rear Softer spring
Determining the Proper Settings
Standard Settings
From the factory, the machine is set up for a
medium-weight rider with intermediate riding ability.
TUNING 191
Suspension Tuning According the Type of

Course
• stand.).
Hold the motorcycle upright (remove the side
Lower the front end slightly • While standing next to the machine, lightly pull the
brake lever, place one foot on the footpeg closest
(Increase the amount of fork tube
protrusion above the steering to you, and push down hard. If the motorcycle
Many Corners stays level as the suspension is compressed, the
stem head by 5 mm (0.20 in.).).
This accelerates steering and spring rates are well balanced.
enhances turning ability. • Sit astride the motorcycle, take a riding posture
and check that the machine is in a horizontal po-
Raise the front end slightly sition. If one end drops noticeably more than the j
(Decrease the amount of fork other, the front and rear are not compatible and
tube protrusion above the must be readjusted to achieve a better balance.
Fast Course steering stem head by 5 mm
(0.20 in.).). This slows down
steering and enhances stability
at high speed.
Deep Dips or Raise the front end slightly to
Sandy Ground gain stability.
Begin the actual on-track testing and evaluation

after making these preliminary adjustments.
Bear in mind the following points when readjusting
the suspension.
• Always make changes in small steps.
• The rider must be consistent in evaluating suspen-
sion performance.
• A change in the front suspension might require
one in the rear suspension, and vise versa. Although this is one of the most effective adjust-
ment procedures, suspension settings may vary de-
Front and Rear Suspension Compatibility pending on the conditions at the track and the rider’s
Inspection preferences.
Use this procedure to determine if the suspension
is balanced reasonably well.
192 TUNING
Front and Rear Suspension Troubleshooting NOTE
Front End Surges Downhill or During Lighter or less experienced riders may lower the
Acceleration Out of Corner - air pressure.
The front suspension is too soft.
• Increase the compression damping or rebound
damping.
Front End Does Not Respond to Small Bumps in
Sweeping Turns -
• Increase the air pressure (right front fork inner
chamber). •
The front suspension is too hard.
Decrease the compression damping or rebound
j • Increase the fork oil amount (left front fork).
•
damping.
Decrease the air pressure (right front fork).
Front End “Knifes” or Oversteers in Turns
(Tends to Turn Inward) - • Decrease the fork oil amount (left front fork).
The front suspension is too soft. Rear End “Kicks” When Braking on Bumps -
• Increase the compression damping or rebound
damping.
The rear shock absorber rebound damping may be
too low.
• Increase the fork oil amount (left front fork). • Increase the rebound damping.
NOTE Rear Tire Does Not “Hook Up” Out of Corners
(Lack of Traction Coming Out of Turns) -
Heavier or expert riders may heighten the air pres-
The rear shock absorber may be too stiff.
sure.
• Decrease the rear shock absorber spring preload.
Front End Pushes or “Washes Out” in Turns • Decrease the high speed/low speed compression
damping.
(Front Wheel Tends to Push Outward Rather
than “Bite” in a Turn) - • Use a softer spring (lightweight rider only).
The front suspension is too stiff. Fork Bottoms Off After a High-speed Jump (may
• Decrease the compression damping or rebound
damping.
be due to improper riding posture) -
The rebound damping is too soft or the spring is
• Decrease the air pressure (right front fork inner too hard.
chamber). • Increase the rebound damping.
• Decrease the fork oil amount (left front fork). • Decrease the rear shock absorber spring preload.
• Decrease the compression damping.
TUNING 193
Front and Rear Ends Bottom Off After a NOTE

High-speed Jump (harsh bottoming occurs The rear shock absorber behavior on this machine
once or twice per lap) - may mislead some riders.
The front suspension is too soft. The rear shock absorber bottoms (due to full
• Increase the air pressure (right front fork inner
chamber).
stroke) when the spring and damping are over-
come by the total weight of the machine and rider.
• Increase the fork oil amount (left front fork). A bottoming sensation (even though the machine
is actually not bottoming) may be caused by ma-
The rear suspension is too soft. chine weight and the inability of the rider to over- j
• Increase the rear shock absorber spring preload
or use a harder spring.
come an overly stiff spring or excessive damping.
Observe the rear end jumps and try lowering the
• Increase the rear shock absorber high speed com-
pression damping or use a harder spring.
spring preload and damping if it does not approach
bottoming.
NOTE
Check the front and rear suspension compatibility
after making any adjustment.
Rear End Feels Soft at Small Jump -

•Increase the spring preload up to maximum.
•Increase the rear shock absorber low speed com-
pression damping.
Rear End Feels Soft at Large Jump -
• Increase the spring preload up to maximum.
• pression damping.
Increase the rear shock absorber high speed com-
Rear End Bottoms After 3 or 4 Successive

Jumps -
• Decrease the rebound damping.
194 TUNING
Gearing
• Since it is difficult to set the machine so it is best
suited for all portions of the circuit, determine
which circuit portions will have the greatest ef-
fect on lap time, and tune the machine to these
Selection of the Secondary Reduction Ratio portions. Confirm your settings by recording lap
(Rear Sprocket) times after each change. In this way the machine
Rear Sprocket Selection According to Course will deliver best performance for the entire circuit.
Conditions
Fast Course Small sprocket
j
Many Curves or Hills
Large sprocket
Sandy or Soft Ground
• Ifondary
the course has long straight portions, the sec-
reduction ratio should be reduced so that
the machine speed can be increased.
• If then the course has many corners or uphills or
is wet, the secondary reduction ratio should be
increased so that gear shifting and acceleration
are smooth.
• Since the speed must be changed depending on
the ground condition on the day of the race, be
sure to run through the circuit prior to a race and
tune the machine accordingly.
• If there is a long straight portion of the course on
which the machine can be run at maximum speed,
the machine should be set so that the maximum
speed is developed toward the end of the straight
course, but care should be taken not to over-rev
the engine.
TUNING 195
Special Care According to Track

• Inslackmuddy or sandy conditions, increase chain
as the chain and sprockets will be packed
Conditions with mud or sand, which reduces chain slack.
• riding
Check chain and sprocket wear frequently when
• Infinedry,powdery
dusty conditions (such a volcanic ash or
dust), special care must be given to
in mud or sand, since wear is increased in
these conditions.
keeping the air cleaner element clean. • Sticking muds or dusts on the front fork inner tube
• When riding on wet, heavy clay, mud adheres to
the tires and other parts of the vehicle. The mud
and rear shock absorber rod could damage to the
oil seal, leading to an oil leak. Clean the sticking
can add significantly to the weight of the vehicle muds or dusts from the front fork inner tube and j
and therefore reduce performance. Take care to rear shock absorber rod after each ride.
remove built-up mud from the tires and chassis
after each ride, before drying occurs.
• The engine works hardest in muddy conditions
and the radiator can become clogged with mud.
Take care not to overheat the engine in these con-
ditions. The engine also works very hard when
riding in deep sand.
196 OPTIONAL PARTS
OPTIONAL PARTS
Rear Sprocket Suspension Spring (N/mm)
48T K = 49
49T K = 51
Rear
Aluminum 50T (Standard) K = 53 (Standard)
51T K = 55
52T Aluminum Nipple Wheel (Without Tire)
48T Front 21 × 1.60
49T Rear 19 × 2.15
Steel 50T Spoke Nipple
51T Front and Rear Steel
52T
Handlebar Holder and Clamp NOTE
Installing the optional tie-rod will reduce the
Clamp (Upper) Size 28.6
amount of groud clearance.
28.6
Holder (Lower) Size KX FI Calibration Kit
22.2
The KX FI Calibration Kit can change the ECU data
Tie-rod setting, and save and analyze the engine operation
Size L = 136 data in a personal computer (PC).
KX FI Calibration Kit: Part No. – 99999-0394

For details, refer to the KX FI Calibration Kit man-
ual.
PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE MAINTENANCE 197
PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE MAINTENANCE

Pre-Race Checks - Maintenance After the First Race -
• Front axle nut, or axle clamp bolt torque •Clean the air cleaner element.
• Front fork clamp bolt torque •Adjust the drive chain slack.
• Handlebar clamp bolt torque •Torque the rear sprocket nuts.
• Throttle grip screw tightness •Torque the spokes.
• Throttle grip operation •Check the front and rear tire air pressure.
• Front and rear brake hose installation •Torque the front and rear axle nuts.
• Front and rear brake fluid level •Torque the swingarm pivot shaft nut.
• Front and rear brake disc and caliper installation •Torque the muffler and exhaust pipe bolts and
• Front and rear brake function nuts.
• Fuel tank installation •Tighten the front and rear fender bolts.
• All control cable routings •Tighten the fuel tank and seat bolts.
• Engine mounting bolt torque •Check the front and rear brake function.
• Engine sprocket installation •Check the steering play.
• Shift pedal bolt torque •Fill the fuel tank with fuel.
• Engine oil level •Check the coolant level.
• UNI-TRAK® lever rod nut torque
Maintenance After Riding on a Dusty Course -
• UNI-TRAK® lever nut torque
• Ifanddirtcrankshaft
or dust gets into the engine, cylinder, piston
• Rear shock absorber nut torque
bearings will be damaged. After
• Swingarm pivot shaft nut torque
riding, inspect the crankshaft big end. If the crank-
• Rear axle nut torque
shaft big end is worn past the service limit, replace
• Rear sprocket nut torque
the crankshaft with a new one.
• Rear brake pedal operation
• Clean the sliding surface of the front fork and rear
• Seat installation
shock absorber.
• Front and rear wheel spoke torque
• Front and rear tire air pressure Maintenance After Riding in the Rain or on a
• Front fork air pressure Muddy Course -
• Drive chain slack •Clean the sliding surface of the front fork and rear
• Coolant level shock absorber.
• Oil applied to air cleaner element
198 PRE-RACE CHECKS AND AFTER-RACE MAINTENANCE
• Apply
pivots.
grease to swingarm and rear suspension • Rear shock absorber springs (for suspension ad-
justment)
• Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket for wear. • Rear and engine sprockets with bolts/nuts and cir-
• Clean the air cleaner element. clips
• Check the cylinder and crankshaft big end. • Electrical parts
• Grease the throttle grip and control cables. • Clutch assembly and friction plates
Spark plugs
Suggested Spare Parts - • Gaskets
• Front and rear wheels • Front and rear tires (various compounds and tread
• Brake lever,and
Shift pedal brake pedal • patterns for different conditions)
• Throttle and clutch lever, and holders
• Front fork assembly
• Handlebar clutch cables
• Piston and piston rings
• Front and rear fenders, side covers, and number • Tire wraps, bolts, nuts, screws, O-rings, washers,
• plate snap rings, wire, adhesive tape, vinyl tape (or duct
tape), and #400 to #600 emery cloth
• Radiator, radiator shroud, and water hoses
• Air cleaner element
Throttle grip assembly
• Muffler, and related parts
• Chain case
•
STORAGE 199
STORAGE
WARNING
Before Storage Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be
explosive under certain conditions, creating
When the motorcycle is to be stored for any length the potential for serious burns. Always stop
of time, it should be prepared for storage as follows. the engine and never smoke while handling
• Clean the entire vehicle thoroughly. fuel. Make sure the area is well-ventilated
• Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the
oil, then stop it and drain the engine oil.
and free from any source of flame or sparks;
this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
Make sure the engine is cold before working.
WARNING Wipe any fuel off the engine before starting j
Engine oil is a toxic substance. Dispose of it. Gasoline is a toxic substance. Dispose of
used oil properly. Contact your local author- gasoline properly. Contact your local author-
ities for approved disposal methods or pos- ities for approved disposal methods.
sible recycling.
• Remove the spark plug and spray fogging oil di-
• Install the oil drain bolts and fill in fresh engine oil. rectly into the cylinder. Kick the engine over slowly
• a long time).
Empty the fuel tank (Fuel will deteriorate if left for a few times to coat the cylinder wall. Install the
spark plug.
• Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables.
• Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to pre-
vent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts and
on the brakes.
• Lift the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both
wheels are raised off the ground (If this cannot be
done, put boards under the front and rear wheels
to keep dampness away from the tire rubber).
• Tie a plastic bag over the muffler to prevent mois-
ture from entering.
• Cover the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt away
from it.
200 STORAGE
• Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

After Storage • Checksallsection.
Check the points listed in the Daily Pre-Ride
• Remove the plastic bag from the muffler. • Perform a lubrication procedure in the Lubrication
• Make sure the spark plug is tight. section.
NOTE
Fit the plug cap securely onto the spark plug, and
pull the cap lightly to make sure that it is properly
installed.
j
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION 201
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
Kawasaki subscribes to the guidelines of Tread Lightly! a program dedicated to protecting the great outdoors
through education and fostering responsible enjoyment of public lands. When using your Kawasaki motorcycle,
please follow these Tread Lightly! guidelines:
Tread Lightly!
Travel responsibly on designated roads and trails or in permitted areas.
Respect the rights of others including private property owners and all recreational trail users, campers and
others to allow them to enjoy their recreational activities undisturbed.
Educate yourself by obtaining travel maps and regulations from public agencies, planning for your trip, taking
recreation skills classes, and knowing how to use and operate your equipment safely.
Avoid sensitive areas such as meadows, lakeshores, wetlands and streams, unless on designated routes.
This protects wildlife habitat and sensitive soils from damage.
D o your part by leaving the area better than you found it, properly disposing of waste, minimizing the use of
fire, avoiding the spread of invasive species, restoring degraded areas, and joining a local enthusiast organi-
zation.
Properly discard used tires, engine oil, other vehicle components, or the entire vehicle that you might dispose
of in the future. Consult your authorized Kawasaki dealer or local environmental waste agency for their proper
disposal procedure.
202 WIRING DIAGRAM
WIRING DIAGRAM

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GENERAL INFORMATION j

Quick Reference Guide

A Table of Contents is included after the

• This vehicle is designed for the operator only, no passengers.

KAWASAKI HEAVY INDUSTRIES, LTD.

© 2014 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. Mar. 17, 2014. (5)

Specifications are subject to change without notice.

2. Brake Fluid (Rear)

5. Noise Emission Control Information

1. Clutch Lever 5. Fuel Tank Cap

1. Front Fork 8. Brake Caliper

1. Muffler 6. Uni-Trak® Tie-Rod and Rocker Arm

This Kawasaki KX has a 4-stroke engine that re-

A. Fuel Tank Cap

A. Idle Adjusting Screw/Choke Knob

• Find the kick pedal position around the top so that

• Even after the engine has started, do not push

The launch control mode can be used to adjust ig-

• Change the connector on the right front of the

dent use of the front or rear brake may be advanta-

A. Engine Stop Button

Break in the engine as follows.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

FREQUENCY After each Every 3 Every 6 Every 12

Rear axle nut - inspect † • 92

FREQUENCY After each Every 3 Every 6 Every 12

Swingarm and UNI-TRAK linkage pivots

†: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.

A. Oil Level Inspection Window A. Drain Bolt (M6)

WARNING • Be sure to install the spring on the original position.

• When the oil filter is replaced, remove the oil filter

• Replace the oil filter element with a new one.

A. Oil Filter Cap Bolts NOTICE

• Install the oil filter cap with the grease applied to

• Fill the engine up to the high level line with good

Tightening Torque *Kawasaki Performance Oils and Lubricants have

NOTE The oil viscosity may need to be changed to ac-

• Tighten the oil filler plug.

• Start the engine.

• Then, push and turn the cap further in the same

Coolant Total Amount

• Install the radiator cap. NOTICE

• Visually inspect the old coolant.

• Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler

accumulated in the radiator.

• Install the radiator cap.

• Check the coolant level after the engine has

A. Fuel Tank Mounting Bolt

• Be sure to place a piece of cloth around the fuel

• Turn the driver to disconnect the joint lock.

A. Fuel Pump Lead Connector A. Spark Plug Cap

WARNING • Loosen and remove the spark plug with a suitable

• Install the spark plug cap so that it is aligned with

A. Spark Plug Cap

• Check the joint lock for deformation and wear.

A. Fuel Hose Joint A. Fuel Hose Joint

• Run the fuel pump lead over the fuel hose.

• Before installing the fuel tank, check that both

• Hook the band to the fuel tank.