Module For Cabinet

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector: CONSTRUCTION
Qualification Title: CARPENTRY NC III

INSTALL BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED
Unit of Competency:
CABINETS
INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED
Module Title:
CABINETS
Technical Education and Skills Development Authority

Jacobo Z. Gonzales Memorial School of Arts and Trades
San Antonio, Biñan City
Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Page 1 of 123
Developed by:
SYSTEM Fabricated Glenn F.
Cabinets Salandanan Revision #
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
Welcome to the module in Developing Competency-Based Learning

Materials. This module contains training materials and activities for you to
complete.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order
to complete each learning outcome of the module. In each learning
outcome are Information Sheets, Self-Checks, Operation Sheets and Job
Sheets. Follow these activities on your own. If you have questions, don't
hesitate to ask your facilitator for assistance.
The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain
these skills, you must leam basic concepts and terminology. For the most
part, you'll get this information from the Information Sheets and TESDA
Website, www.tesda.gov.ph
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required
competency, in "Developing Competency-Based Learning Materials".
This will be the source of information for you to acquire knowledge
and skills in this particular competency independently and at your own
pace, with minimum supervision or help from your instructor.
Remember to:
Work through all the information and complete the activities in each
section.
Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested
references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.
Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or
manager. He/she is there to support you and show you the correct way to
do things.
You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice
on the job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work
shifts. This way you will improve both your speed and memory and also
your confidence.
Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of
each section to test your own progress.
When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask
your Trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be
recorded in your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before developing the CBLM of
the Learning Outcomes assigned to you.
MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY :INSTALL BUILT-IN/PRE-FABRICATED

CABINETS
MODULE TITLE :INSTALLING BUILT-IN/PRE-

FABRICATED CABINETS
MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the knowledge, skills

and attitude in preparing materials, tools
and equipment for installing built-in and/or
pre-fabricated cabinets,
fabricating/assembling built-in
cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated
cabinet, assembling and installing built-in
and pre- fabricate cabinet components.
NOMINAL DURATION : 40 hrs.
CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NC III
PREREQUISITE :
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able

to:
Prepare materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or pre-
fabricated cabinets;
Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated

cabinet ; and,
Assemble and install built-in and pre-fabricate cabinet components.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
 Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted

according to job requirements
 Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared
consistent with job requirements
 Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that
they are free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to
immediate supervisor for appropriate action
 Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules
and regulations
 Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and
regulations
 Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and
specifications
 Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated
cabinets are prepared/assembled according to working drawings
and specifications
 Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company
rules and regulations
 Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
 Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
 Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet
assembly are set-out in accordance with working drawings and
specifications
 Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet
assembly are installed in accordance with working drawings and
specifications
 Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings
 Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company
 Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
 Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1 Prepare materials, tools and
equipment for installing built-in
and/or pre-fabricated cabinets
CONTENTS:
• Millwork Drawing
• Materials and specification
• Different types of wood defects
• Classification of hand tools & equipment and their uses
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted
according to job requirements
2. Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared
consistent with job requirements
3. Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that
they are free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to
immediate supervisor for appropriate action
4. Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules
and regulations
5. Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and
regulations
CONDITIONS:
You must be provided with the
following:
• WORKPLACE LOCATION
• TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Hand Saw
• Hammer • Chalk Line
• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• TRAINING MATERIALS
 Leaning Packages
 Bond paper
 Ball pens
 Manuals
 Related References
ASSESSMENT METHOD
 Portfolio
Learning Experience
PREPARE MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR INSTALLING
BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS
Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Read Information Sheet
No. 4.1-1 on Millwork
2. Answer Self-Check No. Compare your answer to the answer key
4.1-1
No. 4.1-2 on Materials
and Specifications
4.1-2
5. Perform Operation Evaluate your own work using the
Sheet No. 4.1-2 on Re- Performance Criteria
checking Material for Present your work to your trainer for
correct specifications evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
No. 4.1-3 on Different
Types of Wood Defects
4.1-3
Sheet No. 4.1-3 on Types Performance Criteria
of Defects Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
No. 4.1-4 on
Classification of Hand
Tools & Equipment and
their Uses
10. Answer Self-Check Compare your answer to the answer key
No. 4.1-4
INFORMATION SHEET 4.1-1
MILLWORK DRAWINGS
Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU

MUST be able to IDENTIFY PLANS AND WORKING DRAWINGS
The term millwork refers to custom; shop-built, wood components

designed for interior finish construction. It is typical to both residential and
commercial work. The project interior designer or architect designs and
then produces the drawings for such items. They are included in the set of
construction drawings for the job.
Each item designed for a project is detailed. A plan view, a front

elevation (view), rear elevation, side elevations, sections and
enlarged details explain the design. Dimensions and notes are added to
describe construction and finishes.
Figure 1. Millwork drawing
Some project only requires a few fixtures. The detailing of these will
often be incorporated into other pages of the construction drawings. Trim
is shown on interior wall elevations with the desired profile provided. A
floor fixture might be detailed on the same page as the plan or on another
drawing.
Projects, which involve many items, will require several pages to
cover them all. These drawings pages are usually grouped together and
included at the end of the architectural set of drawings.
Drawing notes and finish schedules provide specify the type, solid or
plywood veneer, maple, pine, oak, etc. and the finish.
The following is an example of a millwork drawing. The drawing has

been reduced to fit on this page. It is only to provide an overview, not to
shown any specific information.
Figure 2. Millwork drawing with finish schedule
Some typical notes on a millwork drawing are:

1. 3/ 4” thick plywood gable with p. lam. finish (symbol) applied to all
surfaces and edges
2. 3/4” thick melamine (symbol) adjustable shelves with matching
finish applied to all edges
3. metal pilaster strips c/w metal shelf clips (4) per shelf 3/4” thick
plywood door with p. lam. finish (symbol) c/w concealed hinges and
3” satin chrome ‘D’ pull
4. 3/4” thick oak veneer plywood end gable (symbol)
5. Shop drawings must be provided for approval by the designer prior
to manufacturing
The symbol shown in the notes above represents where a finish

symbol is placed. These finish symbols such, as “PL-1” in a rectangle is a
reference. A specification is listed for each in a Finish Schedule. The
specification is by manufacturer, model number, color, size, etc, or as
required to describe the item.
SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-1
Name of Trainee: Date:

IDENTIFICATION. Study the drawing of a built-in cabinet illustrated
below. Identify what is being ask from the drawing by writing your
answer on the space provided.
1. Maximum height of the

countertop in millimeter
2. Height of utility outlet from

center line
3. Width of adjustable
countertop from back of knee
space in millimeter
4. Material used in frame (typical

section)
5. Backsplash height in milimeter
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 10 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre- Developed by: 123
ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-1
Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it
right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.
1. Maximum height of the 940 mm

countertop in
millimeter
2. Height of utility outlet from 4 inches
center line
3. Width of adjustable 555 mm

countertop from back of knee
space in millimeter
4. Material used in frame (typical Steel tubular frame

section)
5. Backsplash height in milimeter 175 mm
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 11 of
INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2
MATERIALS AND
SPECIFICATION

MUST be able to IDENTIFY MATERIALS CONSISTENT TO JOB
REQUIREMENTS.
INTRODUCTION
In cabinetmaking, those characteristics of wood with which we are

concerned differ somewhat from those characteristics of wood with which
we are concerned when we are dealing with frame construction. For
example, in cabinetmaking, beauty and finishing qualities are the
determining factors rather than strength.
Many beautiful hardwoods are strong. Being strong and naturally

beautiful, they are favored for cabinetwork.
In this section you will learn the types of wood used in cabinetwork
and the characteristics of each type. After studying these characteristics,
you should be able to identify and select the proper wood for a particular
job. The most desirable woods for cabinetwork should:
• Have the ability to keep their shape without shrinking, warping,
or swelling.
• Be easily workable with tools and machinery without causing
rough surfaces
• Be strong, with suitable grain characteristics that are pleasing to
the eye
CLASSIFICATION OF LUMBER
Softwoods
Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking. Among these, white
pine is one of the most useful of all. It is also easy to work, because it has
a uniform grain and holds its shape well. White pine is soft, light, and of
medium strength. It splits easily but holds nails fairly well. It also takes
glue well. The grain is not prominent; therefore, it has no particular
beauty. For this reason, coupled with its ability to hold paint, it is most
often painted.
Hardwoods
Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets.
Their strength, plus beauty and ability to take clear finishes (varnish and
lacquer), makes them ideal for the finest products of the cabinetmaker.
There are many types of hardwoods; however, we will cover only the
principal ones.
Walnut is one of the finest of cabinet woods, because the grain is
porous and varies from straight to irregular. Walnut works well with tools,
finishes smoothly, and holds glue and stain well. It is a hard, strong wood
and is easily identified by its dark heartwood. It is used extensively for
plywood, veneers, furniture, and millwork.
Mahogany is not a native wood; therefore, all species are imported.
Most varieties come from Central America, Africa, and India. It is a hard,
strong wood; however, the hardness can vary with the species. Color can
vary in shade, but generally speaking, it is reddish brown. Mahogany has
a close, varying grain, causing a pleasing reflection of light. It is used
chiefly for fine furniture, plywood panels, veneers, and interior finishes.
Oak is a very hard, strong wood with two main species: white and
red. Unless it is carefully seasoned, it will warp and check; however, once
it is worked to a finish it is without rival for strength and beauty. Oak
bends excellently, holds nails well, finishes smoothly, and holds glue
satisfactorily. The grain is coarse and porous; and when quartersawed, the
medullary rays are broad and numerous, making pleasing patterns. It
takes stain very well, making beautiful grain contrasts, and is used for
interior finishes, flooring, plywood panels, veneers, and furniture. Oak
sometimes is used in boatbuilding where strength is required.
Plywood
Today plywood is used for thousands of products, and the average
person comes into contact with it every day. It, too, is used extensively in
cabinetwork. Modern plywood
consists of veneers that are
fabricated with glues. In simple
terms, it consists of three or more
layers of thin wood firmly glued
together, with the grain direction
of the middle layer at right angles
to the outer layers. By this means
of fabrication, swelling and
shrinking is reduced and stability
and strength are added, qualities
which would not be found in the
original material.
Figure 3. Grain Direction in a sheet of

plywood
Two Basic Types of Plywood
1. Exterior Plywood - Exterior plywood is bonded with waterproof glues.

It can be used for siding, concrete forms, and other constructions
where it will be exposed to the weather or excessive moisture.
2. Interior plywood is bonded with glues that are not waterproof. It is
used for cabinets and other inside construction where the moisture
content of the panels will not exceed 20 percent. Finishing plywood
presents no unusual problems; it can be sanded or texture coated
with a permanent finish or left to weather naturally.
Plywood is made in thicknesses of 1/8 inch to more than 1 inch, with

the common sizes being 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch. A standard panel
size is 4-feet wide by 8-feet long. Smaller size panels are available in the
hardwoods.
There is probably no other building material as versatile as plywood.

It is used for concrete forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams,
soffits, stressed-skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets,
crates, signs, and many other items.
Wood used in cabinetwork consists of a variety of hardwoods,

softwoods, and plywood. When selecting materials for cabinets, you
should select the type best suited for the job you are doing. That is, don't
use the highest grade of lumber or the best grade of plywood to construct
a cabinet that is to be used for storage.
Table 1. Classification of Softwood Plywood Rates Species for Strength

and Stiffness
Bill of Materials and Cutting List
Before beginning the work of laying out, a complete list must be

made of all the different pieces of lumber needed for a job. Such a list is
called “bill of material” or a “finished-stock list.” It is made out directly
from the drawing, which shows the dimensions of each piece and the
method of construction.
A bill of material specifies the wood to be used, lists the number of
pieces needed, gives the exact dimensions for each piece, and names the
part of the construction for which it is to used, such as sides, legs, or top.
For cabinet works the dimensions are given in inches and in the
following order: thickness, width, length. Usually the length is the greatest
dimension, but there are cases that the width is greater the length.
A rough-stock list or a cutting list usually is made from the finished-
stock list by adding 1/8 in. to the thickness, ¼ in. to the width, and ½ in.
to the length. This is to allow for planing and squaring. No allowance is
made for plywood.
Lumber for building purposes is sawed and planed to various
standard dimensions. Planed lumber is slightly less in thickness and width
than rough-sawed lumber. From 1/16 to 1/8 in. is allowed for each planed
surface. Therefore, a planed 1 in. board is only 7/8 or 13/16 in. thick. The
symbol S2S, used by lumber dealers, means surfaces or dressed on two
sides. Lumber for cabinet is sold in odd widths and short lengths and at a
lower price than is charged for standard width and lengths.
Figure 4.
Pictorial Drawing
of Built-in Book
Shelves
Table 2. Bill of materials
FINISH LIST CUTTING (ROUGH) LIST
No.
of Thicknes Kind of Name Widt Lengt
Width Length Thickness
Piece s Material of Part h h
s
12 3/4 2 68 ½ cherry sides 7/8 2¼ 69
3/4 6 22 bottom
6 cherry 7/8 6¼ 22 ½
Rails
3/4 3 22 Middle
6 cherry 7/8 3¼ 22 ½
rails
3/4 5½ 22 Top
6 cherry 7/8 5¼ 22 ½
rails
3/4 20 ½ 45 ½ Cherry Panels
6 ¼ 20 ½ 45 ½
plywood
3 3/4 20 ½ 16 ½ Cherry panels ¼ 20 ½ 16 ½
Plywood
Table 3. Cutting List of Built-it Book Shelves

TRUE OR FALSE. Read the statement carefully. Write TRUE if the

statement is true and FALSE if the statement is false. Write your answer
on the space provided before the number.
1. Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking.
2. Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets.
3. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing it to split easily.
4. Plywood is used extensively in cabinetwork. It is used also for

concrete forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams,
soffits, stressed-skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors,
furniture, cabinets, crates, signs, and many other items.
5. Finishing plywood cannot be sanded nor texture coated with a

permanent finish.
1. TRUE
2. TRUE
3. FALSE
4. TRUE
5. FALSE
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2
Title: Re-Checking Material for Correct
Specifications
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should
be able to re-check materials for correct
specifications
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Sample Materials (Lumber)
Equipment:
Steps/Procedure:
1. Study carefully the working drawing/plan provided to you.

2. Look for the overall dimensions and detailed dimensions of the
project according to the drawing.
3. Get the actual measurement of the materials/stock assigned
to you and get the number of pieces needed using the form
provided to you.
4. Accomplish Form 01a Materials Inspection List.
Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist
SPECIFICATION REQUIREMENTS ACTUAL

UNIT NO. OF DIMENSION (INCHES) NO. OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT
NAME PIECES THICKNESS WIDTH LENGTH
PIECE THICKNESS WIDTH LENGTH
S
1 2 2 2 6½
2 4 1½ 2 4 1/4
3 4 2½ 2¼ 5
4 1 ¾ 24 16
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
CRITERIA YES NO
1. Can I identify material specification from parts lists
from the actual/physical materials?
2. Are all required materials checked and re-checked
according to job requirement, such as:
1. Dimensions;
2. No. of required pieces; and,
3. Type of materials?
3. Is the required form for inspection properly

accomplished and completed?
WOOD DEFECTS

MUST be able to IDENTIFY WOOD DEFECTS.
No matter what species of timber you use, you will undoubtedly

come across some pieces that contain defects come across some pieces
that contain defects.
Defects may be naturally occurring or can be man-made. Natural
defects can be due to many reasons such as environmental factors,
growth patterns, soil composition, etc. Man-made defects can occur at
many points ... from the felling of the tree, transport, storage, sawing,
drying, etc.
Although you can work around some defects such as knots, or cut
off defects such as splits, boards that are heavily twisted, bowed, cupped,
or crooked usually are not usable.
Bow A curve along the face of a board

that usually runs from end to
end.
Checking A crack in the wood structure of

a piece, usually running
lengthwise. Checks are usually
restricted to the end of a board
and do not penetrate as far as
the opposite side of a piece of
sawn timber.
Crook Warping along the edge from
one end to the other. This is
most common in wood that was
cut from the centre of the tree
near
the pith
Cupping Warping along the face of a
board across the width of the
board. This defect is most
common of plain sawn lumber.
Split A longitudinal separation of the
fibres which extends to the
opposite face of a piece of sawn
timber.
Twist Warping in lumber where the

ends twist in opposite directions
Wane The presence of bark or absence

of wood on comers of a piece of
lumber
Blue A discoloration that penetrates

Stain the wood fibre. It can be any
colour other than the natural
colour of the piece in which it is
found. It is classed as light,
medium or heavy and is
generally blue or brown
Machine A darkening of the wood due to
Burn overheating by the machine
knives or rolls when pieces are
stopped in a machine.
Pitch An accumulation of resinous
material on the surface or in
pockets below the surface of
wood. Also called gum or sap.
Loose A knot that cannot be relied upon
Knot to remain in place in the piece.
Caused by a dead branch that
was not fully integrated into the
tree before it was cut down
Tight A knot fixed by growth or
Knot position in the wood structure so
that it firmly retains its place in
the surrounding wood
Worm Small holes in the wood caused
holes by insects and beetles
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 22 of
IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify the type of

wood defects from the given statements. Write your answer on space
provided.
1 A discoloration that penetrates the wood fibre. It can be

any colour other than the natural colour of the piece in
which it is found. It is classed as light, medium or heavy
and is generally blue or brown
2 Small holes in the wood caused by insects and beetles
3 Warping along the face of a board across the width of
the board. This defect is most common of plain sawn
lumber.
4 A longitudinal separation of the fibres which extends to
the opposite face of a piece of sawn timber.
5 A curve along the face of a board that usually runs from
end to end.
10
1. Blue stain
2. Worm holes
3. Crook
4. Cupping
5. Bow
6. Cracking
7. Split
8. Twist
9. Wane
10. Loose Knot
Title: Identify Wood Defects
be able to identify wood defects from the
given materials/stocks
Supplies and Materials: Lumber (with visible wood defects)
Equipment:
Steps/Procedure:
• Check thoroughly the physical appearance of the wood/lumber

provided to you in your station.
• Examine the appearance of the stocks.
• Accomplish Form 02 Wood Defects Inspection List for visible
defects of wood.
Assessment Method:
FORM 01b WOOD DEFECTS INSPECTION LIST
PART NO. 1 Type of Wood:
Remarks:
Remarks:
Others:
Inspected by: Date Inspected:

OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1.3
CRITERIA YES NO
• Can I identify different defects of wood?
• Are materials like lumber checked to correct

specification to ensure that they are free from
defects?
• Are defected wood/stock identified and

properly reported using corresponding form?
CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
AND THEIR USES

MUST be able to IDENTIFY THE CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS
AND EQUIPMENT AND THEIR USES
The whole range of tools for carpentry is quite extensive and

includes power and battery-operated (cordless) tools in the essential list.
The following details, therefore, do not cover all the tools that you could
have, rather all the tools that you should have.
MARKING AND MEASURING

Pencils
For more accurate marking and a

longer-lasting point, they can easily be
sharpened to a chisel-point.
Figure 5. Pencils
Tape Rule
This is essential for fast, efficient
measuring on site work. For this type of
carrying-rule, sizes vary between 2 m
and 10 m. Models with lockable, power-
return blades and belt clips, one of 3.5
m and one of 8 m length are
recommended. Figure 6. Tape Rule
Chalk Line Reel

This tool is very useful for marking straight
lines by holding the line taut between two
extremes, lifting at any mid point with finger and
thumb and flicking onto the surface to leave a
straight chalk line.
Figure 7. Chalk Line Reel
Marking Gauges
Gauges are used for cutting parallel lines
at a given distance from the edge
Figure 8. Marking Gauge

Spirit Level
This is an essential tool for plumbing and
leveling operations. When checking or setting up a
level or plumb position, be sure that the bubble is
equally settled between the lines on the vial for
accurate readings.
Figure 9. Spirit Level
Plumb Bob
There is still a use, however limited, for these
traditional plumbing devices. They should, as
illustrated, always be suspended away from the
surface being checked and measured for equal
readings at top and bottom. The point is very useful for
plumbing to a mark on the floor.
Figure 10. Plumb Bob
Combination Mitre Square

This tool can be used for testing or
marking narrow rebated edges, as shown, or
for testing or marking angles of 90°, 45°,
and 135°; the blade can be adjusted from
the stock to a set measurement and, with
the aid of a pencil, used as a pencil gauge.
Figure 11. Combination Miter Square
Sliding Bevel
This is an essential tool for angular work,
especially roofing if using the Roofing Ready
Reckoner method.
Figure 12. Sliding Bevel

CUTTING TOOLS
Handsaws
• Crosscut Saw -This is for cutting
timber across the grain. When
crosscutting, the saw should be at an
approximate angle of 45° to the
timber.
Figure 13. Crosscut Saw

• Tenon Saw - This saw is sometimes
referred to as a back saw.
Technically thought of as a general
purpose bench saw for fine cutting,
it is however widely used on site for
certain second-fixing operations
involving fine crosscutting of small sections.
Figure 14. Tenon Saw
• Rip Saw - Used for cutting along or with

the grain. When ripping (cutting along
or with the grain), the saw should be
used at a steep angle of about 60–70°
to the timber.
Figure 15. Rip Saw
• General Saw and Fine Saw - The first

model is general carpentry saw is
recommended for cutting worktops and
laminates without chipping. The second
model is called a fine cut saw and has a
half-length back or full-length back
support and is said to surpass
conventional tenon saws.
Figure 16. General Saw and Fine Saw
• Coping Saw - This is mainly used for

scribing (cutting the profile shape) of
molded skirting boards where they meet
in the corners of a room, but
occasionally comes in useful for other
curved cuts in wood or plastic.
Figure 17. Coping Saw
CHISELS
Firmer chisels are generally for heavy
work, chopping and cutting timber in a
variety of operations where a certain
amount of mallet/hammer work and
levering might be necessary to remove the
chopped surface. Bevelled-edge chisels are
generally for more accurate finishing tasks.
Figure 18. (a) Firmer Chisel;
(b) Bevelled-edge Chisel
HAND PLANES
The two planes to be recommended
as most useful for site work are the No. 4
1-2 smoothing plane with a cutter width
of 60 mm and a base length of 260mm
and the No. 5 1-2 jack plane, also with a
cutter width of 60mm, but a base length
of 381mm.
Figure 19. Metal Jack Plane
DRIVING TOOLS
HAMMERS
• Claw Hammer - Although this tool is basically for nailing and
extracting nails, it has also been
widely used over the years by using
the side of the head as an alternative
to the wooden mallet. The claw is
also used for a limited amount of
leverage work, such as separating
nailed boards, etc.
Figure 20. Claw Hammer
• Mallet - The conventional wedge-shaped pattern is rather bulky and

not generally favoured for site work, even though the tapered shaft
– retaining the head from flying off – can be removed for easier
carriage. A recommended alternative is a round-headed mallet,
such as a Tinman’s mallet – used
traditionally by sheet-metal workers –
which has a boxwood or lignum-vitae
head of about 70 mm diameter. Finally,
wooden mallets should only strike on
their end grain, not on their sides.
Figure 21. Mallet

SCREWDRIVERS
 Ratchet Screwdriver - The
ratchet screwdriver is available
with flared slotted tip in four
blade-lengths of 75mm,
100mm, 150mm and 200mm.
They are also available with a
No 2 Supadriv/Pozidriv tip and
a No 2 Phillips’ tip in blade-
lengths of 100 mm only.
Figure 22. (a) Rachet screwdriver; (b)
Spiral pump Screwdriver; (c) Plastic-handled screwdriver
 Spiral Pump Screwdriver - can be used as a ratchet. The use of drill

bits in this compact-size pump is an attractive alternative for
making speedy pilot holes. Interchangeable bits are supplied with
the whole range of this type of screwdriver in different sizes.
 Plastic-Handled Screwdrivers - has a well-shaped polypropylene

handle integrated with thermo-plastic elastomeric inserts to provide
improved grip and comfort in use.
RATCHET BRACE
Used for making large holes, it
has wooden head and handle which is
fitted in bearings to turn easily. At the
bottom it is provided with a chuck to
hold the bit. The ratchet positioned
above the chuck helps to rotate the bit
in one direction only
Figure 23. Rachet Brace

BITS
• Twist bits and flat bits - Also
referred to as auger bits used for
drilling shallow or deep (maximum
150 mm) holes of 6–32 mm
diameter.
Figure 24. Twist bits/ Auger bits

and flat bits
• Countersink bits - These are for screw-head recessing in soft metal

and timber.
• Combined countersink and counterbore bits - Used for drilling a pilot
hole, shank hole and countersink for woodscrews in one operation.
Figure 25. Countersink bits Figure 26. Combined

countersink and counterbore bit
PORTABLE POWERED AND CORDLESS CIRCULAR SAWS

These saws are widely used
nowadays to save time and energy
spent on hand sawing operations. They
can also be used for bevel cuts, sawn
grooves and rebates.
Figure 27. Portable powered

circular saw
POWERED AND CORDLESS DRILLS

AND SCREWDRIVERS
There is nowadays a wide range of
dual- and triple-purpose drills to choose
from, starting with the basic rotary-only
drill and ending with the advanced electro
pneumatic hammer drill. the
drill/screwdriver, drill/impact (percussion)
drill/screwdriver, drill/rotary hammer
drill/screwdriver, and combinations of
battery-powered models such as the
cordless screwdriver, drill/screwdriver,
drill/impact drill/screwdriver, and the
drill/rotary hammer drill/screwdriver.
Figure 28. Powered and cordless drills and screwdrivers

POWERED AND CORDLESS PLANERS
Powered planers are often used nowadays in conjunction with
traditional planes such as the jack and the smoothing plane. They are
sometimes preferred on such jobs as door-hanging, to lessen the
strenuous task of ‘shooting-in’ the door by planing its edges.
(a) (b)
Figure 29. (a) Powered plane; (b) Cordless plane
POWERED AND CORDLESS JIGSAWS

The essential purpose for a jigsaw is to enable pierced work to be
carried out. This self-explanatory term means to enter the body of a
material, without leading in from an outside edge. By so doing, small,
irregular shapes can be cut.
Figure 30. (a) Powered jigsaw; (b) Cordless jigsaw
POWERED (PORTABLE) ROUTERS

These include cutting recessed housings for
door hinges; apertures for letter plates (often
referred to as letter boxes); mortises for door locks
and latches; joints in laminate kitchen-worktops with
post-formed edges; end-shaping of laminate
worktops; cutting ‘dog-bone’ or ‘T-shaped’ recesses
for inserting panel bolt connectors; and cutting
segmental slots in the joint-edges of worktops for the
insertion of so-called ‘biscuits’.
Figure 31. Powered router

NAILING GUNS
Nail guns are being used on sites nowadays – especially on new-
build projects. The reason for this is that these tools eliminate the effort
involved in repetitive nailing and speed up the job.
Figure 28 (a) Pneumatic Framing Nailer; (b) cordless gas/battery

Framing Nailer; (c) cordless battery-only Finish Nailer
IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kind and

classification tools and equipment. Write your answer on the space
provided.
CLASSIFICATION
(DRIVING, BORING, NAME OF
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT CUTTING, MARKING, TOOL
MEASURING)
1
5
ANSWER KEY 4.1-4
CLASSIFICATION NAME OF TOOL

1 DRIVING TOOL SCREWDRIVER
2 CUTTING TOOL WOOD CHISEL
3 BORING TOOL RACHET BRACE
4 CUTTING TOOL HAND PLANE
5 BORING TOOL BITS
LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 2 Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet
components and/or pre-fabricated
cabinet
CONTENTS:
1. Woodworking process
2. Classification of wood joints and their uses
3. Description of manufactured cabinets
4. Procedure in laying-out and assembling on the location of cabinets
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and
specifications
2. Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated cabinets
are prepared/assembled according to working drawings and
specifications
3. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company
4. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
5. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
CONDITIONS:
following:
• WORKPLACE LOCATION
• TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • Hand Saw
• Hammer • Chalk Line
• TRAINING MATERIALS
• Leaning Packages
• Bond paper
• Ball pens
• Manuals
• Related References
ASSESSMENT METHOD
• Portfolio
Learning Experience
FABRICATE/ASSEMBLE BUILT-IN CABINET COMPONENTS AND/OR
PRE-FABRICATED CABINET

No. 4.2-1 on Wood
working process
Sheet no. 4.2-1 on Performance Criteria
Planing and Present your work to your trainer for
Squaring Stock to evaluation
Dimension Keep a copy of your work for the next
activities
No. 4.2-2 on
Classification of Wood
Joints and their Uses
4.2-2
No. 4.2-3 on Description
of Manufactured
Cabinets
4.2-3
No. 4.2-4 on Laying-out
Manufacture Kitchen
Cabinet
No. 4.2-5 on Installing
Manufactured Kitchen
Cabinet
Sheet No. 4.2-5a on Performance Criteria
Laying-out the Wall Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
Sheet No. 4.2-5b on Performance Criteria
Installing Wall Units Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
Sheet No. 4.2-5c on Performance Criteria
Installing Base Cabinet Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
12. Read Information
Sheet No. 4.2-6 on
Installing Manufactured
Countertops
Installing Manufactured Present your work to your trainer for
Countertops evaluation
activities
Installing the Cabinet Present your work to your trainer for
Ends evaluation
activities
Making the Face Frame Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
16. Read Information
Sheet No. 4.2-7 on
Drawer Construction
Overlay Drawer Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
Making Lipped Drawer Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
Making Flush Drawer Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
activities
WOODWORKING PROCESS
MUST be able to KNOW the different WOODWORKING PROCESSES
Preliminaries to any sound construction are (1) a full cutting list of

all the pieces required; (2)good timber free from natural defects,
accurately sawn and planed up flat, square and out of twist;(3) careful
planning of the work ahead, including the choosing of appropriate jointing
methods, the order in which they are to be cut and the order and method
in which the various pieces and parts are to be assembled in the
completed carcass. This last is important and must be accurately
visualized if there are to be no last-minute hitches, with carefully cut
joints glued ready for assembly unable to be driven home because the
direction of entry conflicts with other parts already in position.
A. SETTING/LAYING OUT
The wood must first be cut to approximate length, and it is always
better to square off from either a sawn edge or a pencil-line along the
length if the planks are waney. If an incorrect line is drawn—and all
measurements should always be checked and double checked—then it
should be cancelled out and a broad arrow drawn against the corrected
measurement. The ends of the plank should be carefully examined for
hidden splits and the first few inches of any plank which has been stored
for any length of time may have to be sacrificed.
Due allowance for working must be made, with 1/4 in (6 mm) on

width and 1/2 in (12 mm) on the length for the first rough sawing to
dimension unless the cuts are machine-made and accurate. Customary
allowance for planing (surfacing) sawn thicknesses is usually 3/32 in (2.5
mm) for each finished face.
The following is an outline of procedure using predominantly hand

tools. Although many of these operations would normally be undertaken
with the aid of machinery in professional shops, at some time or other,
particularly on one-off, prototype or site work, every one of these hand
processes might be used. Also, there is no better way of understanding
the materials we work with than through a basic training in hand skills and
techniques.
B. MARKING/LAYING OUT
Face-marks and edge-marks must be bold and should be done with
a thick soft pencil. For the first approximate dimensioning of lengths, etc.
a B or HB pencil can be used, but for accurate dimensions at later stages
a 2H or 4H is necessary, while shoulder-lines should always be marked
with a knife.
Figure 29. Marking a new line (A) and marking the trued edge
C. SAWING OUT
The rip-saw is used for long-grain sawing, the large crosscut or
crosscut panel-saw for cutting across the grain, and the temptation to use
the finer tenon- and dovetail-saws for rough work should be strenuously
resisted, for more often than not the plank will be gritty. A usual tendency
on the part of the beginner is to saw too fast, and in comparison the
skilled worker's pace is almost leisurely, but he will cut more wood in the
end and it will be accurate. Every effort should be made to saw not only
on the line but also truly vertical, as this will save not only material but a
great deal of unnecessary work at later stages.
D. PLANING (SURFACING)
Either the fore- or jack-plane is used for the first rough levelling,
the try-plane for true leveling and the finely set smoothing-plane for final
surfacing. In planing wide boards the best or face surface should first be
levelled off along, across or diagonally, according to how the grain works
(interlocked grain is best planed diagonally to prevent tearing out), When
the board is out of wind then the try-plane should be capable of taking
fine shavings the full length of the board over the entire area, to be
followed up by the finely set smoothing-plane to ease out any ridges and
roughened patches. When the surface is planed perfectly true and out of
wind it should be marked with a 'face' mark (128B) which should never be
omitted from any piece of prepared wood.
E. SQUARING EDGES
Immediately after the face surface is true, the leading or best edge
should be trued straight in its length and at right angles to the face,
checking carefully with the try-square all along the length; it is then
known as the 'trued' or face edge and is marked accordingly. This is,
perhaps, the most difficult of all planing operations, for while it is
comparatively easy to plane a straight edge with a long try-plane, always
remembering that pressure is applied at the front of the plane at the start
of the stroke and gradually transferred to the back as the plane moves
forward, it is much more difficult to keep the edge truly square to the
face.
Figure 30.
F. SQUARING ENDS
The shooting-board is used for squaring ends, but if the wood is too
wide or too heavy to be held on the board then the ends will have to be
shot in the vice and checked against a long trysquare. The practice of
nicking off the far corner to prevent the grain splintering out is not to be
recommended, and it is advisable to learn how to use the try-plane in both
directions, leading with the left hand, reversing the plane and leading with
the right. An alternative method is to cramp/clamp a block at the far
corner to support the grain, and a similar scrap piece is sometimes
necessary when squaring ends on the shooting-board.
Title: Plane and Square Stock to Dimension
be able to plane and square stock to
dimension
Supplies and Materials: Lumber/ stock
Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Try-square

• Marking Tools • Hand Saw
• Measuring Tools • PPE
• Hand Planer
1. Plane one broad
surface smooth and
straight. Test it
crosswise, lengthwise,
and from corner to
corner. Mark the work
X
Work on face
2. Plane one edge smooth

straight and square to
the work face test it
from work face. Mark
the work edge X
Work on edge
3. Plane one end smooth

and square. Test it
from the work face and
work edge. Mark the
work end X
Work on end
4. Measure length and
scribe around the
stock. A line square to
the work edge and
work face. Saw off
excess stock near the
line and plane smooth
to the scribed line.
Test the second end
from both the work
face and the work
edge.
5. From the work edge

gauge a line for width
on both faces plane
smooth, straight,
square and to the
gauge line. Test the
second edge from the
work face
Work on second edge
6. From the work face

gauge a line for
thickness around the
stock. Plane the stock
to the gauge line test
the second face as the
work face is tested.
Work on second face
Assessment Method:
Observation
CLASSIFICATION OF WOOD JOINTS AND THEIR USES

MUST be able to KNOW and APPLY the different classification of
WOOD JOINTS and their USES
Jointing methods are designed to hold or lock pieces of wood

together, either in the same plane or in opposing planes, so that the
method of attachment is permanent and strong against loading stresses,
thrusts, sudden impact, the wear and tear of daily use and the constant
movement of the wood fibers.
Methods of joining wood together can be classified under four broad

headings:
• Butted joints, either edge to edge, side to side and with or without
additional reinforcement
• Interlocking joints where one piece of wood is cut or shaped to fit
a corresponding socket in the other piece
• Mechanical joints which permit controlled movement
• Knock-down metal or plastic fittings which secure the various wood
sections together to form rigid structures
Figure 31. Basic joint cuts

A. Types of Carpentry Joints
1. Halving joint
• used in construction of frames
Figure 32. Halving Joints
• after marking and cutting, the two parts are glued together with
final external surfaces level
Figure 33a. Corner Halving Joint Figure 33b. T- halving

joint
2. Mortise and tenon joint
• strong joint used in

construction of doors,
windows and frames
• the tenon (tongue)

fits into a
mortise(mouth)
• the open mortise and

tenon joint is called
briddle joint and is
usually made in
square sections
Figure 44. Mortise & tenon joint

Figure 35. Briddle joint
3. Mitre joint
• formed by cutting the ends at an

angle
• the two ends are joined by nails or

screws
• this joint is used in photo frames
Figure 36. Miter joint
4. Dowel joint
 used as substitute for mortise and tenon joint, and securing loose
parts to a product
Figure 37. Dowel joint
5. Butt & rubbed joint
1. used to produce wide boards like drawing

boards, table tops
2. to make the joint the edges are planed with

trying plane and joined together with glue
Figure 38. Butt or rubbed joint
6. Screw & slot joint
• used for thick wooden pieces

which do not glue readily
• on piece carries the screw while

the other has a hole for head of
the screw and a slot for shank
Figure 39. Screw & slotted joint

7. Tongue & grooved joint
• widening joint used for flanks and boards

• this is prepared by cutting a groove on one edge and a
matching tongue on the other
• tongue is fitted into groove
• sometimes, grooves are made on both the edges and a separate
tongue is inserted in it --such joints are called inserted tongue and
groove joint
Figure 40. Tongue & grooved joint
8. Dovetail
• the best method of jointing two pieces of wood together in their

width and at right angles to each other
Figure 41(1-2). Hand Dovetail Figure 41(3-4). Machine Dovetail
Figure 42. Box Dovetail

IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kinds of

wood joints. Write your answer on the space provided.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
ANSWER KEY 4.2-2
1. Miter Joint
2. Halving Joint
3. Mortise and Tenon
4. Dado
5. dovetail joint
DESCRIPTION OF MANUFACTURED CABINETS

MUST be able to be familiar with the various kinds, sizes, uses,
and construction of the cabinets and to know how to and install
them.
For commercial buildings, many kinds of specialty cabinets are

manufactured. They are designed for specific uses in offices, hospitals,
laboratories, schools, libraries, and other buildings. Most cabinets used in
residential construction are manufactured for the kitchen or bathroom. All
cabinets, whether for commercial or residential use/ consist of a case
which is fitted with shelves, doors, and/or drawers. Cabinets are
manufactured and installed in essentially the same way. Designs vary
considerably with the manufacturer, but sizes are close to the same.
Kinds and Sizes
One method of cabinet construction utilizes a face frame. This frame

provides openings for doors and drawers. Another method, called
European or frameless, eliminates the face frame. Face-framed cabinets
usually give a traditional look. Frameless cabinets are used when a
contemporary appearance is desired.
Figure 43. Two basic methods of cabinet construction are with a face
frame or frameless
The two basic kinds of kitchen cabinets are the wall unit and the
base unit. The surface of the countertop is usually about 36 inches from
the floor. Wall units are installed about 18 inches above the countertop.
This distance is enough to accommodate such articles as coffee makers,
toasters, blenders, and mixers. Yet it keeps the top shelf within reach, not
over 6 feet from the floor. The usual overall height of a kitchen cabinet
installation is 7'-0" .
Figure 44. Parts of manufactured kitchen cabinet
1. Wall Cabinets. Standard wall cabinets are 12 inches deep. They

normally come in heights of 42, 30, 24, 18, 15, and 12 inches. The
standard height is 30 inches. Shorter cabinets are used above sinks,
refrigerators, and ranges. The 42-inch cabinets are for use in kitchens
without soffits where more storage space is desired. A standard height
wall unit usually contains two adjustable shelves.
Usual wall cabinet widths range from 9 to 48 inches in 3-inch

increments. They come with single or double doors depending on their
width. Single-door cabinets can be hung so doors can swing in either
direction.
Wall corner cabinets make access into corners easier. Double-faced
cabinets have doors on both sides for use above island and peninsular
bases. Some wall cabinets are made 24 inches deep for installation above
refrigerators. A microwave oven case/ with a 30-inch wide shelf, is
available.
Figure 45. Common cabinet heights and dimensions
2. Base Cabinets. Most base cabinets are manufactured 34 1/2

inches high and 24 inches deep. By adding the usual countertop thickness
of 1 ½ inches, the work surface is at the standard height of 36 inches from
the floor. Base cabinets come in widths to match wall cabinets. Single-
door cabinets are manufactured in widths from 9 to 24 inches. Double-
door cabinets come in widths from 27 to 48 inches. A recess called a toe
space is provided at the bottom of the cabinet.
The standard base cabinet contains one drawer, one door, and an
adjustable shelf. Some base units have no drawers; others contain all
drawers. Double-faced cabinets provide access from both sides. Corner
units/ with round revolving shelves, make corner storage easily accessible
Figure 46. Base cabinets
3. Tall Cabinets. Tall cabinets are usually manufactured 24 inches

deep, the same depth as base cabinets. Some utility cabinets are 12
inches deep. They are made 66 inches high and in widths of 27.30, and 33
inches for use as oven cabinets- Single-door utility cabinets are made 18
and 24 inches wide. Doubledoor pantry cabinets are made 36 inches wide
(Fig. 87-6). Wall cabinets with a 24-inch depth are usually installed above
tall cabinets.
Figure 47. Tall cabinets are manufactured as oven, utility, and pantry
units
4. Vanity Cabinets. Most vanity base cabinets are made 311/2
inches high and 21 inches deep. Some are made in depths of 16 and 18
inches. Usual widths range from 24 to 36 inches in increments of 3 inches,
then 42,48, and 60 inches. They are available with several combinations
of doors and drawers, depending on their width- Various sizes and styles
of vanity wall cabinets are also manufactured.
Figure 48. Vanity cabinets are made similar to kitchen cabinets, but
differ in size
5. Accessories. Accessories are essential to or enhance a

cabinet installation. Filler pieces fill small gaps in width
between wall and base units when no combination of sizes can
fill the existing space. They are cut to necessary widths on the
job. Other accessories include cabinet end panels, face panels
for dishwashers and refrigerators, open shelves for cabinet
ends, and spice racks.
MATCHING TYPE. Choose from the letters under Column B the answers
in Column A. Write your answer on the space provided.
COLUMN A COLUMN B
1. Manufactured at standard a. wall cabinet

height of 36 inches from the
floor and 24 inches deep.
2. Most of these cabinets are b. base cabinet

made 31 1/2 inches high and
21 inches deep.
3. Standard cabinet height is c. tall cabinet

30 inches, usually contains two
adjustable shelves.
4. The standard cabinet d. vanity cabinet

contains one drawer, one door,
and an adjustable shelf, a
recess called a toe space is
provided at the bottom of the
cabinet.
5. They are made 66 inches

high and in widths of 27.30.
ANSWER KEY 4.2-3
1. b
2. d
3. a
4. b
5. c
LAYING OUT MANUFACTURED KITCHEN CABINETS

MUST be able to KNOW how to layout manufactured kitchen
cabinets
The blueprints for a building contain plans, elevations, and details

that show the cabinet layout. Architects may draw the layout. But they
may not specify the size or the manufacturer's identification for each
individual unit of the installation. In residential construction, particularly
in remodeling, no plans are usually available to show the cabinet
arrangement.
In addition to installation/ it becomes the responsibility of the carpentry

contractor to plan, lay out, and order the cabinets, in accordance with the
customer's specifications.
1. The first step is to measure carefully and accurately the length of

the walls on which the cabinets are to be installed. A plan is then drawn to
scale. It must show the location of all appliances, sinks, windows, and
other necessary items.
2. Next, draw elevations of the base cabinets, referring to the

manufacturer's catalog for sizes. Always use the largest size cabinets
available instead of two or three smaller ones- This reduces the cost and
makes installation easier.
3. Match up the wall cabinets with the base cabinets, where

feasible. If filler strips are necessary, place them between a wall and a
cabinet or between cabinets in the corner. Identify each unit on the
elevations with the manufacturer's identification. Make a list of the units
in the layout. Order from the distributor.
Figure 49. Typical plan of a kitchen cabinet layout showing location of
walls, windows and appliances
Figure 50. Sink Wall Elevation

Figure 51. Elevations of the installation are drawn and the cabinets
identified.
Computer Layouts
Computer programs are available to help in laying out manufactured

kitchen cabinets. When the required information is fed into the computer,
a number of different layouts can be quickly made. When a acceptable
layout is made, it can be printed with each of the cabinets in the layout
identified and priced. Most large kitchen cabinet distributors will supply
computerized layouts on request.
INSTALLING MANUFACTURED CABINETS

MUST be able to Install manufactures cabinets.
Cabinets must be installed level and plumb even though floors are
not always level and walls not always plumb. Level lines are first drawn on
the wall for base and wall cabinets. In order to level base cabinets that set
on an unlevel floor, either shim the cabinets from the high point of the
floor or scribe and fit the cabinets to the floor from lowest point on the
floor. Shimming the base cabinets leaves a space that must be later
covered by a molding. Scribing and fitting the cabinets to the floor
eliminate the need for a molding. The method used depends on the
various conditions of the job. If shimming base cabinets, layout the level
lines on the wall from the highest point of the floors where cabinets are to
be installed. If fitting cabinets to the floor, measure up from the lowest
point.
The fabrication and installation of manufactured cabinets will be

discussed in detail on the following operation sheets.
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5a
Title: Laying-out the Wall
be able to lay-out the wall where the
cabinet will be installed
Lumber, plywood, fasteners
Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Measure 34 ½ inches up the wall. Draw a level line to indicate the

tops of the base cabinets. Another level line must be made on the
wall 54 inches from the floor. The bottoms of the wall units are
installed to this line.
Note: It is more accurate to measure 19 1/2 inches

up from the first level line and snap lines parallel to it
than to level another line.
2. The next step is to mark the stud locations in a framed wall.

(Cabinet mounting screws will be driven into the studs.) Lightly
tap on and across a short distance of the wall with a hammer.
Drive a finish nail in at the point where a solid sound is heard.
Drive the nail where holes are later covered by a cabinet- If a stud
is found, mark the location with a pencil. If no stud is found try a
little over to one side or the other.
3. Measure at 16-inch intervals in both directions from the first stud

to locate other studs. Drive a finish nail to test for solid wood.
Mark each stud location. If studs are not found at 16-inch centers,
try 24-inch, centers- At each stud location, draw plumb lines on
the wall. Mark the outlines of all cabinets on the wall to visualize
and check the cabinet locations against the layout.
See illustration on the following page.
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 64 of
QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
The wall is laid out with outlines of the cabinets
Assessment Method:
Direct Observation
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 65 of
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did my measurements corresponds to
the measurements on the drawing?
• After laying-out the tops of the base cabinets
and the bottom of the wall units, is the
measurement from the first and second line
equal to 19 ½ inches?
• Did I located the studs on the framed wall and
draw plumb lines on the wall?
• Did I marked the outlines of all cabinets on the
wall to visualize and check the cabinet
locations against the layout?
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5b
Title: Installing Wall Units
be able to install wall units
• Hand Saw
Steps/ Procedures:
1. Remove all doors and adjustable shelves. This makes

the cabinets lighter and easier to clamp together.
• If possible, screw a 1 X3 strip of lumber so its top edge is on the

level line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. This is used to
support the wall units while they are being fastened.
• If it is not possible to screw to the wall, build a stand on which

to support the unit near the line of installation (as shown below).
2a. Start the installation of wall cabinets in a corner.
• On the wall, measure from the line representing the outside of the
cabinet to the stud centers
• Transfer the measurements to the cabinets
• Drill shank holes for mounting screws through mounting rails
usually installed at the top and bottom of the cabinet
• Place the cabinet on the supporting strip or stand so its bottom is
on the level layout line
• Fasten the cabinet in place with mounting screws of sufficient
length to hold the cabinet securely
• Do not fully tighten the screws
2b. On masonry walls, first drill holes through the mounting strips.
Place the cabinet in position, and mark the location of the drilled holes
on the wall. Remove the cabinet. Drill holes into the masonry wall for
lead inserts. Replace the cabinet, and screw in place.
3. The next cabinet is installed in the same manner.
• Align the adjoining stiles so their faces are flush with each other
• Clamp them together with C-clamps
• Screw the stiles tightly together
• Continue this procedure around the room
Date Document No.
JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 68 of
Developed by: 123
• Tighten all mounting screws
4. If a filler needs to be used, it is better to add it next to a blind corner

cabinet or at the end of a run. It may be necessary to scribe the filler to
the wall as shown on the illustration below.
Assessment Method: Direct Observation

Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 69 of
CRITERIA YES NO
• Are all doors and adjustable shelves removed
before installing the cabinet?
• Did I installed wall cabinets in a corner first?
• Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces

were flushed with each other?
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5c
Title: Installing Base Cabinets
be able to install base cabinets
• Hand Saw
Steps/ Procedures:
1. Start the installation of base cabinets in a comer.
• Shim the bottom until the cabinet top is on the layout line
• Then level and shim the cabinet from back to front
• If cabinets are to be fitted to the floor, shim until their tops
are level across width and depth. This will bring the tops
above the layout line that was measured from the low point
of the floor
• Adjust the pencil dividers so the distance between the points
is equal to the amount the top of the unit is above the layout
line
• Scribe this amount on the bottom end of the cabinets by
running the dividers along the floor
2. Cut both ends and toeboard to the scribed lines. There is no
need to cut the cabinet backs because they do not/ ordinarily, extend
to the floor.
3. Place the cabinet in position.
• The top ends should be on the layout line.
4. Fasten it loosely to the wall.
Note: The remaining base cabinets are installed in the same manner.
Align and clamp the stiles of adjoining cabinets. Fasten them together.
5. Finally, fasten all units securely to the wall
Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment
OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1.5c
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I started installing the base cabinets in the
corners first?
• Did I cut both ends and toe board to the

scribed lines?
• Are the cabinets placed in its prescribed

positions?
• Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces

were flushed with each other?
• Are all cabinets fastened to the walls securely?

INSTALLING MANUFACTURED COUNTERTOPS

MUST be able to be familiar with countertops, where it is made
from, and LEARN the procedure in installing manufactured
countertops.
Countertops are manufactured in various standard lengths. They

can be cut to fit any installation against walls. They are also available with
one end precut at a 45 degree angle for joining with a similar one at
comers. Special hardware is used to join the sections.
The countertops are covered with a thin, tough high-pressure plastic

laminate. This is generally known as mica. It is available in many colors
and patterns. The countertops are called postformed countertops. This
term comes from the method of forming the mica to the rounded edges
and corners of the countertop. Postforming is bending the mica with heat
to a radius of 3/4 inch or less. This can only be done with special
equipment.
Steps in Installing Manufactured Countertops
1. After the base units are fastened in position, the countertop is cut to
length. It is fastened on top of the base units and against the wall.
The backsplash can be scribed, limited by the thickness of its
scribing strip/ to an irregular wall surface. Use pencil dividers to
scribe a line on the top edge of the backsplash. Then plane or belt
sand to the scribed line.
2. Fasten the countertop to the base cabinets with screws up through
triangular blocks usually installed in the top corners of base units.
Use a stop on the drill bit. This prevents drilling through the
countertop. Use screws of sufficient length, but not so long that they
penetrate the countertop.
3. Exposed cut ends of postformed countertops are covered by
specially shaped pieces of plastic laminate.
4. Sink cutouts are made by carefully outlining the cutout and cutting
with a saber saw. The cutout pattern usually comes with the sink.
Use a fine tooth blade to prevent chipping out the face of the mica
beyond the sink. Some duct tape applied to the base of the saber
saw will prevent scratching of the countertop when making the
cutout.
Title: Install Manufactured Countertop
be able to install manufactured countertop
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Use pieces 3/4- or 5/8-inch with width of 24 ½ inches panel

material for the countertop.
2. Place the countertop on the base of the cabinets, against

the wall. Its outside edge should overhang the face frame the same
amount the entire length. Open the pencil divider or scribers to the
amount of overhang.
3. Scribe the back edge of the countertop to the wall.
4. Cut the countertop to the scribed line.
5. Place it back on top of the base cabinets. The ends should be

flush with the end of the base cabinets. The front edge should be flush
with the face of the face frame (as shown below).
Scribing the countertop to fit the wall with its outside edge flush with
the face of the cabinet
6. Install a 1x2 on the front edge and at the ends, if an end

overhang is desired. Keep the top edge flush with the top side of the
countertop.
7. If a backsplash is used, rip a 4-inch wide length of ¾

inch stock the same length as the countertop.
8. Fasten the backsplash on top of and flush with the back

edge of the countertop. Use driving screws up through the
countertop and into the bottom edge of the backsplash. In corners,
fasten the ends of the backsplash together with screws.
Assessment Method:
Observation
CRITERIA YES NO
• Is the outside edge of the countertop overhang the

face frame the same amount the entire length?
• Are the ends flushed with the end of the base

cabinet?
Title: Installing the Cabinet Ends
be able to install the cabinet ends
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut the cabinet ends to a rough length and width with

square ends. The length should be about 36 inches and
the width about 23- 1 / 2 inches.
2. Place one end in position. Plumb the outside edge. Use shims
between it and the wall and floor, if necessary, to hold it steady.
3. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the top end
projects above the top cleat. Scribe this amount on the
bottom.
4. Cut the bottom end to the scribed line to fit to the floor.
5. Place the end back in position. Its bottom end should fit the
floor. Top end should be flush and level with the top edge of the
top cleat, and its outside edge plumb.
6. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the outside

edge projects beyond the cabinet bottom. Scribe this amount
on the edge against the wall.
7. Cut to the scribed line.
8. Before fastening the end in position, mark and cut a circular

arc out of the bottom outside corner for the toespace. The
top of the cut is started 1 1/2 inches below the cabinet bottom.
The cut is flush with the face of the toeboard at the floor line.
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 78 of
Developed by: 123
9. Smooth the cut edge.
10. Fasten the cabinet end in position. Nail into the end of the
cabinet bottom and into the ends of the wall cleats (as shown
below).
11. Cut and install the other end in the same manner.
Method of fitting the base cabinet end panels.
Assessment Method:
Observation
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 79 of
CRITERIA YES NO
1. Did I fastened the cabinet ends in position?
• Is the flushed cabinet end fits the wall?
• Is the front end of flushed cabinet end

plumb?
• Is the bottom end fits the floor?
• Are the edges of the cabinet ends

smooth?
• Is the top edge of the cabinet end
flushed with the top edge of the
countertop cleat?
Title: Making the Face Frame
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, and after
installing the cabinet ends, you should be
able to make the cabinet face frame.
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Install stiles on each cabinet end.
2. Install the bottom rail between the stiles. Keep the top
edge flush with the top side of the cabinet bottom.
3. Cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same length as the
bottom rail.
4. Fastened the top rails by clamping and gluing them
to short blocks of 1X2 stock installed in back of the
joint (as shown below).
Construction of the base cabinet face frame

5. Sand all joints flush.
6. Ease all sharp exposed comers.
Assessment Method:
Observation
CRITERIA YES NO
• Is the top edge flushed with the top side of the

cabinet bottom?
• Did I cut the top rail and drawer rail to

the same length as the bottom rail?
• Did I installed a short blocks of 1x2 stock in

the back joint of the top rails?
• Are all flushed joints and sharp exposed

corners sanded?
DRAWER CONSTRUCTION

MUST be able to be familiar with the VARIOUS KINDS of JOINTS
USED DRAWER CONSTRUCTION.
Drawers are classified as overlay, lipped, and flush in the same way
as doors. In a cabinet installation, the drawer type should match the door
type.
Drawer Construction
Drawer fronts are generally made from the same material as the
cabinet doors. Drawer sides and backs are generally 1/2 inch thick. They
may be made of solid lumber/ plywood, or particleboard. Medium-density
fiberboard with a printed wood grain is also manufactured for use as
drawer sides and backs. The drawer bottom is usually made of 1/4-inch
plywood or hardboard. Small drawers may have 1/8-inch hardboard
bottoms.
Drawer Joints
Typical joints between the front and sides of drawers are the
dovetail, lock, and rabbet joints. The dovetail joint is used in higher-
quality drawer construction. It takes a longer time to make, but is the
strongest. Dovetail drawer joints may be made using a router and a
dovetail template. The lock joint is simpler. It can be easily made using
a table saw. The rabbet joint is the easiest to make. However, it must be
strengthened with fasteners in addition to glue.
Figure 52. Typical joints between drawer front and side

Joints normally used between the sides and back are the dovetail,
dado and rabbet, dado, and butt joints. With the exception of the dovetail
joint, the drawer back is usually set in at least 1/2 inch from the back ends
of the sides to provide added strength.
This helps prevents the drawer back from being pulled off if the
contents get stuck while opening the drawer.
Drawer Bottom Joints
The drawer bottom is fitted into a groove on all four sides of the
drawer. In some cases, the drawer back is made narrower, the four sides
assembled, the bottom slipped in the groove, and its back edge fastened
to the bottom edge of the drawer back.
Figure 53. Typical joints between drawer back and side

Figure 54. Drawer bottom fitted in groove at drawer back.
Figure 55. Drawer bottom fastened to bottom edge of drawer back.

Title: Overlay Drawer
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut the drawer sides to height and length. The height should be
about 1/8 inch less than the height of the drawer opening. If metal
drawer guides are used, the height of the drawer sides depends on the
type and manufacturer of the drawer guide. Care must be taken not to
make the drawer sides too long. They are usually made 22 inches long
for a standard base cabinet.
2. Dado the sides for the back and front of the drawer, 1/4 inch
deep as shown below. The dadoes are cut to the same depth so the
front and back can be cut to the same length.
Overlay drawer sides are dadoed on the front and back ends
3. Cut the false fronts and backs to width and length. The width
is the same as the drawer sides. The length determines the overall width
of the drawer. The length should be such to allow the proper
clearance between the drawer sides and the opening. This depends on
t he type of drawer guides used. A clearance of 1/2 inch on each side
is required for most metal side guides- If the drawers are to slide on
wood guides, generally about 1/8 inch clearance is required on each
side.
4. Rabbet both ends of the false front to fit into the dado in the
drawer sides. Round off and smooth the top edges of all sides, fronts,
and back.
5. Make a groove on all parts for the drawer bottom. The width of
the groove should be such that the drawer bottom will slide easily into
it without being forced. The depth of the groove should be about 1/4
inch, if 1/2-inch drawer sides are used. If the groove is too deep, it
will weaken the sides. If the groove is too shallow, the bottom may
fall out after assembly. The distance from the bottom edge should be
about 3/8 inch to the bottom of the groove (as shown below).
Location of the groove for the drawer bottom.
6. Glue and fasten the sides to the back. Slip in the bottom. Do not
apply glue to the bottom- Fasten the false front to the sides.
7. Cut and fasten the overlay front to the drawer with screws
driven from the inside. Care must be taken to position the drawer
front correctly.
Plan view of the overlay drawer.
Assessment Method:
Observation
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer sides to height and
length?
• Did I dadoed the sides for the front and back

of the drawer at ¼ inch deep?
• Is the false fronts and backs cut to its width

and length?
• Did I rabbet the false front of the drawer fit

to the dado in the drawer sides?
• Are the grooves on the drawer sides fit the

bottom part of the drawer at ¼ inch deep?
• Did I allow 3/8 inch distance from the
bottom edge to the drawer to the bottom of
the groove?
• Did I glued and fastened the sides of the
drawer to the back securely?
• Is the overlay front cut and fastened to the
drawer correctly with screws driven from the
side?
Title: Make a Lipped Drawer
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut the front 5/8 inch over the opening size on both the
width and length.
2. Rabbet the top and bottom edges 3/8”x3/8”.
3. On each end, make rabbets 3/8”X7/8” to allow for the

overlap, the thickness of the drawer sides, and clearance. The
depth of the rabbet may be greater if more clearance is needed
(depending on the type of drawer guide used).
4. Shape the edges and ends of the drawer front as required.
5. Assemble the drawer in a manner similar to that used for

the overlay drawer.
6. The sides are fastened to the rabbeted ends of the drawer

front.
Plan view of the lipped drawer
Assessment Method:
Observation
CRITERIA YES NO
1. Did I rabbeted the top and bottom edges to 3/8”X
3/8”?
2. Did I rabbeted each end to 3/8”X7/8” allowing

for the overlap?
3. Did I assembled the drawer as required?

Title: Make a Flush Drawer
be able to make a flush drawer
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Cut out the drawer front to the overall height and width of
the drawer opening.
2. Rabbet the two ends of the drawer front to receive the

drawer sides plus an allowance for side clearance. The
amount of clearance depends on the type of drawer guide used.
3. Cut out the other drawer parts.
4. Assemble in a manner similar to that used for other type drawers

(as shown below).
5. After the drawer is assembled, try it in the opening. Fit the

drawer front to the opening by hand planing/ if necessary.
Plan view of the flush drawer
Assessment Method:
Observation
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer front to the overall
height and width of the drawer opening?
• Did I rabbeted the two ends of the drawer

front?
• Is the drawer fitted to the drawer opening?

LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3 Assemble and install built-in and pre-
fabricate cabinet components
CONTENTS:
1. Classification of cabinet hardwares and their uses

2. Wood Filling
3. Installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets components
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
1. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet

assembly are set-out in accordance with working drawings and
specifications
2. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet
assembly are installed in accordance with working drawings and
specifications
3. Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings
4. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company
5. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
6. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations
CONDITIONS:
following:
 WORKPLACE LOCATION
 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT  Hand Saw
 Hammer  Chalk Line
 Marking Tools  Water Hose Level
 Measuring Tools  Plumb Bob
 Screwdriver  Hand Saw
 Steel Square  PPE
 Try-square  Circular Saw
 TRAINING MATERIALS
 Leaning Packages
 Bond paper
 Ball pens
 Manuals
 Related References
ASSESSMENT METHOD
Portfolio
Demonstration
Learning Experience
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL BUILT-IN AND PRE-FABRICATE CABINET
COMPONENTS
1. Read Information Sheet No.
4.3-1 on Classification of
cabinet hardwares and their
uses
2. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the
4.3-1a on Installing Pulls and Performance Criteria
Knobs on Doors Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
4.3-1b on Installing Pulls and Performance Criteria
Knobs on Doors Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
next activities
4.3-1c on Install Magnetic Performance Criteria
and/or Friction Catches Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
next activities
5. Read Information Sheet No.
4.3-2 on Wood Filling
4.3-2 on Apply Wood Filler Performance Criteria
Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation
next activities
7. Read Information Sheet No. 4.3-
3 on Installing built-in
and/or pre-fabricated
cabinets components
4.3-3 on Installing Metal Drawer Performance Criteria
Guides Present your work to your trainer
for evaluation; Keep a copy of your
work for the next activities
CLASSIFICATION OF CABINET HARDWARE AND THEIR
USES

MUST be able to KNOW the different Classification of Cabinet
Hardwares and their Uses.
1. Hinges
All hinges are used to make a movable joint

between two pieces of material. A hinge consists
primarily of a pin and two plates. There are three most
commonly used hinges: full-mortise, half-surface, and
full-surface.
Figure 56. Common door hinge
a. Full-Mortise. The full-mortise hinge is cut or

mortised (gained) into both the door jamb and the
door. The leaves of a full-mortise hinge are
completely hidden, leaving only the barrel exposed
when the door is closed.
Figure 57. Full-mortise hinge
b. Full-Surface. The full-surface hinge is fastened

directly to the door and jamb, and no mortise is
required. Note that the edges of the full-mortise
are beveled. The surface of the frame and door
must be flush when full-surface hinges are used.
Figure 58. Full-surface hinge

c. Half-Surface. The half-surface butt-type hinge is like
the other hinges, except that one leaf is fastened on
the surface of the door and the other leaf fits into a
grain in the frame.
Figure 59. Half-surface hinge
d. Cabinet Hinges. Hinges come in many styles and finishes for every
type of cabinet. Either full-mortise, full-surface, or half-surface
hinges are used for cabinet work. A few of the designs of cabinet
hinges are shown in Figure 5.
Figure 60. Cabinet hinges
e. Special Hinges. Many other types of hinges are available. Several

are shown in below.
Figure 61. Special hinges
Date Document No.

JZGMSAT October 22,
2010 Page 100 of
2. Hinge Hasps
Hinge hasps are like hinges, except for the leaves. One leaf has
screw holes for fastening the hasp in place. The other leaf is longer with a
slot cut near the outer end. A metal loop, riveted to a square metal base,
is used with the hinge hasp. The base of the loop is fastened in place with
four screws. The slot in the long leaf of the hasp fits over the loop. A hinge
hasp is used with a padlock as a locking device. The long leaf of the safety
hasp covers the heads of all screws when it is in the locked position.
Figure 62. Hinge hasps
3. Locks and Striker Plates
a. Tubular Locks. Tubular locks have all the advantages of mortise

locks, but are much easier to install because they only need bored
holes. They are used mainly for interior doors for bedrooms,
bathrooms, passages, and closets. They are available with a key
tumbler lock in the knob on the outside of the door or with a turn
button or push button on the inside.
Figure 63. Tubular lock

b. Cylindrical Locks. Cylindrical locks are basically the same as the
tubular type. The cylindrical lock is a sturdy, heavy-duty, and
stronger lock, which is used on exterior doors for maximum security.
Figure 64. Cylindrical lock
c. Mortise Locks. Mortise locks are used mainly on front or outside

doors for high security. The present trend is away from using
mortise locks because of the difficulty and time required to install
them.
Figure 65. Mortise lock
d. Dead Bolts. Dead Bolts are used where added security is needed.
They are constructed of very hard steel.
Figure 66. Dead bolt locks

e. Rim Locks. Rim locks are easier to install because they are
normally installed on the inside surface of exterior doors. One bored
hole is usually all that is required.
Figure 67. Rim lock
f. Striker Plate. A striker plate is usually mortised into the frame of

the opening for a lock. It prevents the wood from wearing or
splitting and cannot be pried loose easily.
Figure 68. Striker plate
4. Pulls and Knobs
Cabinet pulls or knobs are used on cabinet doors and drawers. They
come in many styles and designs. They are made of metal, plastic, wood,
porcelain, or other material.
Figure 69. A few of the many styles of pulls and knobs used on cabinet
doors and drawers.
5. Door Catches
Doors without self-closing hinges need catches to hold them closed.

Catches should be placed where they are not in the way, such as on the
bottom of shelves, instead of the top.
Kinds of Catches
• Magnetic catches. These are widely used, available in single or

double magnets of varying holding power. An adjustable magnet is
attached to the inside of the case and a metal plate is attached to
the door.
• Friction catches. Installed in similar manner to that used for
magnetic catches.
• Elbow catches. These are used to hold one door of a double set.
They are released by reaching to the back side of the door. These
catches arc usually used when one of the doors is locked against the
other.
• Bullet catches. These are spring loaded. They fit into the edge of
the door. When the door is closed, the catch fits into a recessed
plate mounted on the frame.
Figure 70. Kinds of catches

Title: Install Pulls and Knobs on Doors
be able to install pulls and knobs
Supplies and Materials: Pulls and knobs
Tools and Equipment: 1. Hammer 5. Screwdriver

2. Marking Tools 6. Electric drill with
3. Measuring Tools drill bits
4. Try-square 7. PPE
Steps/Procedure:
1. Drill holes through the door.
2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside.
3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly
oversize in case they are a little off center. This allows the
pulls to be fastened easily without cross-threading the screws.
Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine
screws.
4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap

wood that fits over the door. The template can be made so that
holes can be drilled for doors that swing in either direction (as
shown below).
Using a template when drilling holes for cabinet door pulls
Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as
per working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in
accordance with company rules and
regulations?
• Did I performed housekeeping according to

safety regulations?
Title: Install Pulls and Knobs on Drawers
be able to install pulls and knobs
Supplies and Materials: Pulls and knobs
Tools and Equipment: 1. Hammer 5. Screwdriver
2. Marking Tools 6. Electric drill with
3. Measuring Tools drill bits
4. Try-square 7. PPE
Steps/Procedure:
1. Drill holes through the drawer.
2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside.
3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly
oversize in case they are a little off center. This allows the
pulls to be fastened easily without cross-threading the screws.
Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine
screws.
4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from

scrap wood that fits over the drawer.
5. Align the template center with the center of the drawer. By

using the template, all that is required to locate holes is to find the
center of any width drawer. The template can be made for use in
drawers of different heights (as shown below).
Making template for quick and accurate installation of drawer
full
Assessment Method:
CRITERIA YES NO
regulations?

safety regulations?
Title: Install Magnetic and/or Friction Catches
be able to install catches.
Supplies and Materials: Magnetic and/or Friction Catches
Tools and Equipment: 1.Hammer 5.Screwdriver
2.Marking Tools 6.Electric drill with
3.Measuring Tools drill bits
4.Try-square 7.PPE
Steps/Procedure:
1. First attach the magnet.

2. Then place the plate on the magnet.
3. Close the door and tap it opposite the plate.
4. Mark the location of plate projection on the door.
5. Attach the plate to the door where marked.
6. Try the door. Adjust the magnet, if necessary.
Assessment Method:
Observation

CRITERIA YES NO
regulations?

safety regulations?

WOOD FILLERS
MUST be able to be familiar with the various TYPES OF WOOD
FILLERS.
Wood fillers fix mistakes, fill holes and cover imperfections in a

piece of wood or woodworking project. Certain wood fillers work better in
a given situation than others and appear different on separate species of
wood. Some wood filler may also act as a glue or adhesive so that joints
appear seamless within a woodworking project.
Types of Wood Fillers
Epoxy
9. a very hard, durable wood filler that can be used to fill any sized
hole from large and gaping to tiny and minuscule
10.commonly used to fill large spaces since it doesn’t react to heat and
cold by expanding and contracting like other wood fillers
11.generally comes in two parts, in a resin and an adhesive, that mix

together to form a paste.
12.epoxy molds, shapes and stretches easily when wet, making it ideal
to build up, repair or replace extremely damaged or missing areas
of wood or woodworking projects
13.because of its durability and strength, mistakes in patching with

epoxy are not easily resolved
14.epoxy may dry clear, white or in a wood tone depending on the

brand and specific type used.
Putty
• comes in different colors and shades to match the species of wood
or stain used
• colors may not match perfectly, but closely resemble the wood or
stain so that no extra stain or coloring is required to cover the patch
• if a premixed color doesn’t match the damaged wood, mixing two or

more colors together may achieve the desired match
• wood putty performs best on small- to medium-sized holes
• should not be used to repair larger holes as it is not as durable as

other types of wood filler
• oil-based wood putty is available for filling small holes such as nail
holes and joints for a finished look, and remains flexible after drying.
Glue
• for small holes or imperfections in a woodworking project, a quick
wood filler is a clear drying wood glue mixed with some fine sawdust
• this method creates a patch that closely or completely resembles

the original wood.
• glue and sawdust should only be used to patch very small holes or
damages, as it will not hold up structurally or look as good on larger
holes
• sawdust should be made from the existing wood if possible
Sanding Sealers
• as their name implies, these are used to seal the wood and are
made for sanding
• sanding sealers are made with zinc stearate ( a soap-like material

) which is added so that the sandpaper will not gum up while
sanding
• use after staining and prior to finish clear coat
• sanding sealers are quick drying, allowing for multiple coats in a

short period of time and a quick finishing system
• because of the stearates in them will repel some clear coat finishes
• latex and polyurethanes in particular will not adhere well to these
intermediate clear coats
• it is important that you use a "system" of stain, sealer and clear

coat that is compatible
Shellac
• preferred for sanding sealer
• although shellac will gum up a little when sanding, it is very quick

drying
• will not lift an oil based stain
• will not re-soften when varnished over
• shellac (unless "de-waxed") must be overcoated with an oil varnish
• other finishes will not adhere to shellac because of the naturally

occurring wax contained in it
Pre-Stain Sealers
 used on soft woods like pine to allow a more uniform and less
freckled stained finish
 be careful with these, you can overseal the bare wood so that it
will not take any stain.
Title: Steps in Using Wood Filler

be able to install catches.
Supplies and Materials: 1. Wood Filler
2. Paint Thinner
3. Primer
4. Large cloth
Tools and Equipment: 1. Standard 3. Sandpaper (low
screwdriver and high grain)
2. Scissors or 4. Paintbrush
Stanley knife
Steps/Procedure:
1. Sand Holes
• A nail or screw hole has to be tidied before filler can be applied
• Rotate a flat head screwdriver in the hole to be filled as this will
clean it of any immediate debris
• Use a small piece of sandpaper to gently rub away at the edges
of the hole
• Be sure to cut away any loose wood fibers with a Stanley knife
or small pair of scissors
• Ignore this step and a paint layer will have visible edges on the
surface after painting
2. 2. Apply Filler
1. Get a paste-base wood filler and apply it in the neatened hole
2. Spread enough filler into the hole so a small excess will be left
above the surface
3. Sand down excess to leave a perfectly level surface to paint on
4. Do this for all the holes that need filling.
5. Do not use a liquid-based filler, as this is only required for refined
grained wood patterns
3 3. Sand Filler
1. Allow the filler to dry before any attempts are made to sand
2. Use a medium or high grain sandpaper and apply even pressure
to the areas where you have used the wood filler
3. Sand the filler as even to the surface
4. If you do not refine the wood filler with sandpaper, the filled areas
will stick out once paint dries over them.
4. 4. Clean
1. Use a large cloth and some hot water to gently wipe over the
surface you have been working on
2. Alternatively, use a small amount of paint thinner on the cloth to
strip away any flaky areas of paint and woodwork
3. Allow the water or thinner to dry and check that the debris has
been cleared
5. Check
1. Run your hand over the top of the surface that will be painted; it
should feel smooth and even over the entire area
2. Sand away any lumps you come across
3. Carefully check the surface for any small holes you may have
missed and apply extra wood filler accordingly.
4. Apply a layer of primer with a large paintbrush and you are ready
to paint once it has dried.
Assessment Method:
Observation
CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I filled all holes and covered wood
imperfections using wood filler?
• Are all top of surfaces covered with wood filler

sanded smooth?

safety regulations?
• Did I used appropriate PPE according to job

requirements and safety regulations?
INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED
CABINETS COMPONENTS

MUST be able to be familiar INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-
FABRICATED CABINETS COMPONENTS
Drawer Guides
There are many ways of guiding drawers. The type of drawer guide
selected affects the size of the drawer. The drawer must be supported
level and guided sideways. It must also be kept from tilting down when
opened.
Figure 71. Wood drawer guides are installed in several ways.

Wood Guides
Probably the simplest wood guide is the center strip. It is installed in

the bottom center of the opening from front to back. The strip projects
above the bottom of the opening about 1/4 inch. The bottom edge of the
drawer back is notched to ride in the guide. A kicker is installed. It is
centered above the drawer to keep it from tilting downward when opened.
Figure 72. Simple center wood drawer guide. The back of the drawer is
notched to run on the guide
Another type of wood guide is the grooved center strip. The strip is
placed in the center of the opening from front to back. A matching strip is
fastened to the drawer bottom. In addition to guiding the drawer, this
system keeps it from tilting when opened, eliminating the need for drawer
kickers.
Figure 73. the grooved center wood drawer guide eliminates the need
of a kicker.
Another type of wood guide is a rabbeted strip. Strips are used on
each side of the drawer opening. The drawer sides fit into and slide along
the rabbeted pieces. Sometimes these guides are made up of two pieces
instead of rabbeting one piece. A kicker above the drawer is necessary
with this type guide.
Figure 74. Rabbeted wood guides are installed on each side of the
drawer.
Metal Drawer Guides
There are many different types of metal drawer guides. Some have
a single track mounted on the bottom center of the opening- Others may
be centered above or on each side of the drawer. Nylon rollers mounted
on the drawer ride in the track of the guide.
Figure 75. Installing metal drawer guides
Instructions for installation differ with each type and manufacturer.

When using commercially made drawer guides, read the instructions first
before making the drawer so proper allowances for the drawer guide can
be made.

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COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Qualification Title: CARPENTRY NC III

Technical Education and Skills Development Authority

Date Document No.

Welcome to the module in Developing Competency-Based Learning

UNIT OF COMPETENCY :INSTALL BUILT-IN/PRE-FABRICATED

MODULE TITLE :INSTALLING BUILT-IN/PRE-

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the knowledge, skills

NOMINAL DURATION : 40 hrs.

CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NC III

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able

Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated

Assemble and install built-in and pre-fabricate cabinet components.

 Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted

Learning Activities Special Instructions

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU

The term millwork refers to custom; shop-built, wood components

Each item designed for a project is detailed. A plan view, a front

Figure 1. Millwork drawing

The following is an example of a millwork drawing. The drawing has

Figure 2. Millwork drawing with finish schedule

Some typical notes on a millwork drawing are:

The symbol shown in the notes above represents where a finish

Name of Trainee: Date:

1. Maximum height of the

2. Height of utility outlet from

4. Material used in frame (typical

5. Backsplash height in milimeter

Date Document No.

1. Maximum height of the 940 mm

3. Width of adjustable 555 mm

4. Material used in frame (typical Steel tubular frame

5. Backsplash height in milimeter 175 mm

Date Document No.

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU

In cabinetmaking, those characteristics of wood with which we are

Many beautiful hardwoods are strong. Being strong and naturally

Figure 3. Grain Direction in a sheet of

1. Exterior Plywood - Exterior plywood is bonded with waterproof glues.

Plywood is made in thicknesses of 1/8 inch to more than 1 inch, with

There is probably no other building material as versatile as plywood.

Wood used in cabinetwork consists of a variety of hardwoods,

Table 1. Classification of Softwood Plywood Rates Species for Strength

Before beginning the work of laying out, a complete list must be

Table 3. Cutting List of Built-it Book Shelves

Name of Trainee: Date:

TRUE OR FALSE. Read the statement carefully. Write TRUE if the

1. Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking.

2. Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets.

3. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing it to split easily.

4. Plywood is used extensively in cabinetwork. It is used also for

5. Finishing plywood cannot be sanded nor texture coated with a

1. Study carefully the working drawing/plan provided to you.

SPECIFICATION REQUIREMENTS ACTUAL

Name of Trainee: Date:

2. No. of required pieces; and,

3. Is the required form for inspection properly

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU

No matter what species of timber you use, you will undoubtedly