TO THE COURSE:

TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE COLOURATION

(TXL-242)
 3 credits (3-0-0)
Pre-requisites: TXN101

 Textile Dyeing
&
 Textile Printing
SOME GUIDELINES………

Attendance Policy:
Ideally should be 100%

If, < 50%, Not permitted to sit for the EXAM.

SOME GUIDELINES………

• Medical (Health Issues): Within 7 days’ – Medical

Certificate

• Mobile phone – Switched off / Silent mode (during

class).

MARK DISTRIBUTION:

Minor-I: 25
Minor-II: 25
Major: 40
Quiz: 10
Suggested texts and reference materials:

• John Shore, Cellulosics Dyeing, Society of Dyers and

Colorists, London.

• Ed. M Clark, Handbook of Textile Dyeing – principles,

processes and types of dyes, part – I and II, Woodhead
Publishing

• Arthur Broadbent, Basic Principles of Textile Coloration,

Society of Dyers and Colorists, London.

• Leslie W. C. Miles, Textile Printing by Society of Dyers and

Colorists, London.
 Chemical Processing Technology
• Dye Chemistry
• Colouration Technology
• Colour Technology
• Chemical Technology

Dye Chemistry:

Synthesis, chemical structure, solubility, stability, fastness and

other properties of dyes

Colouration Technology (Dyeing):

Predicts the technique of its efficient application on a specific fibre

and how to produce the shade having better fastness through
after-treatments if there is deficiency the way to rectify it etc.
 Chemical Processing Technology

Colour Technology: (colour management):

Colour aspects, viz. primary, secondary and tertiary

colours, colour mixing, recipe prediction, etc.

Chemical Technology:

Chemistry and suitability of a chemical for a specific

dyeing process, its working mechanism.
WHAT IS COLOUR??
 Colour is a sense impression:

The matter we see has no colour, it only has the

property to reflect certain electromagnetic radiation to
which the human eye is sensitive.

 The sense impression (colour) depends on 3 factors:

 Light source

 Object The Triplet

 Observer
 The light source is the first element of the triplet
 Light is part of the electromagnetic spectrum
 Light is the visible spectral area with wavelengths from 400 to 700 nm

visible light

 In 1670, Isaac Newton discovered that white

light is a mixture of the colored light.
 Objects are the second component of the triplet

 Objects are all things that we can see, e.g. textiles.

 The matter composing the object has the characteristic

to modify the electromagnetic radiation falling on the object
to a greater or lesser extent.

 Absorbing specific wavelengths selectively results in our

perception of color.

 If all wavelengths are absorbed we perceive the color as

black, whereas if all wavelengths are reflected (100%), we
perceive the colour as white.
 Absorbing specific wavelengths selectively determines
the color of objects.

 Red objects:
for example have the characteristic to absorb
the light in the blue-, green- and yellow area.

Here, we observe the

reflection curve of a
red ball.
 Object does n´t emit light!

Object reflects the light of a light source, only.

Red light is reflected

Coloured light is absorbed

The observer is the third component of the Triplet

The human eye as the observer

 The Observer

 In color measuring, modern spectral photometers

step take the place of the eye as observers.
Pre-treatment Dyeing / Printing Finishing

Final step of fabric

manufacturing process

• Appearance (aesthetics)
• Special functionalities (case basis)
• Feel (touch)
Concept of Conjugation
in
Light Absorption
 Visible Light
Light
(for coloring matter)

Excitation of electrons

(Loss of absorbed energy in the form of heat)

• Colour substances absorb portions of visible light. Other

components of EM radiations – UV, X-rays, IR, etc.

(High energy radiation can change the molecular structure)

• Electrons in single bonds, C-C or C-H are held firmly and not
excited by visible light Saturated Hydrocarbons
‘No Colour’. (Can absorb radiations of ~ 130 nm.)

• Unsaturated hydrocarbons Absorb at 180 nm.

(П electrons of = bonds require less energy for excitation.

• Molecules with conjugated double bonds absorb at around

217 nm with E = 20,000 (Butadine)
• Electrons in single bonds, H-H is held firmly and not
excited by visible light ‘No Colour’. (Can absorb
radiations of 111 nm.)
• Unsaturated hydrocarbons Absorb at 165 nm.
(П electrons of = bonds require less energy for excitation.
• Molecules with conjugated double bonds absorb at around
217 nm with E = 20,000 (Butadine)
• By increasing the no of double bonds in conjugation,
the absorptions can be shifted to longer wavelengths.

• Colours of Diphenylpolyenes: [C6H5(CH=CH)nC6H5]

Value of n Colour
1 None
2 None
3 Pale yellow
4 Greenish yellow
5 Orange
6 Brownish orange
7 Copper-Bronze
11 Violet-Black
15 Greenish-Black
Structure of Graphite
 DYES - Example

Picric acid – (pale yellow)

(First synthetic coloring matter) – (1-amino anthraquinone) – blue in
not successful, Fugitive colour

Congo Red –
(ban)
Dye - Constitution

WITT’s Theory
(Simplest and used for most of the colorants)

 Chromophore

 Chromogen

 Auxochrome
 Dye – Structural Components

Chromophores
(provides colour –
unsaturated grps.)

Chromogens: Phenyl, Naphthyl, etc.

(To which chromophore
is attached)
-NH2
-NHR
Auxochromes: -NR2
(Modify the hue / solubility – -OH
Saturated functional groups attached to -OR
conjugated system) -SO3
 Chemical Structure of Dye Molecules
• All dyes are organic aromatic compounds with a conjugated
double bond system to which Chromophores and
Auxochromes are attached.

• Presence of these groups significantly reduces the no. of

double bonds in conjugation required for intense absorptions
of visible light.

• Chromophores are functional groups that by themselves

absorb visible or near UV radiations. These are unsaturated
functional groups.
Dye Components:

Auxochrome
Chromophore

Chromogen
Effect of Auxochrome on Colour

Orange

Deep Yellow

Yellow Red

Deep Red
 Dye, Pigment – Colourants

A DYE IS A COLOURED ORGANIC COMPOUND THAT HAS

AFFINITY FOR THE SUBSTRATE TO WHICH IT IS BEING
APPLIED AND IS SOLUBLE IN THE MEDIUM OF APPLICATION
AT THE TIME OF APPLICATION.

A PIGMENT IS A COLOURED ORGANIC OR INORGANIC

COMPOUND THAT HAS NO AFFINITY FOR THE SUBSTRATE
TO WHICH IT IS BEING APPLIED AND IS INSOLUBLE IN THE
MEDIUM OF APPLICATION.
 DYES

• Coloured compounds (organic)

• Soluble in water or can be solubilized

• Posses affinity for the substrate

• Penetrate / diffuse in fiber X-section during dyeing.

• Depending on nature of fiber & nature of dye, suitable dye

fiber bonds are formed which retain the dye on the fiber.

• Nature & strength of dye fiber bonds determines the

fastness of the dye.
 PIGMENTS

• Colouring compounds (organic/ inorganic)

• Insoluble in water

• No affinity to the substrate

• No interaction with fiber

• Used in mass colouration

 SOURCE OF DYES

 NATURAL DYES

 SYNTHETIC DYES
Natural Dyes
SOURCE:
• Mineral matters
• Vegetables
• Insects

Indigo
Madder
Weld
Natural Dyes Synthesized

Indigo
Adolf von Baeyer

Alizarin
Main Component of Madder
 Natural Dyes

Generally, no affinity for Cotton (Alizarin)

 Mordant – (Chemical compound – have

affinity both for dyes and the substrates)

 Many natural dyes are mordant dyes

Synthetic Dyes

SOURCE:

From Petroleum products (Coal tar)

--- Rich in organic compounds (coal tar dyes)

Dyes first synthesized from Aniline (thus

called, Aniline dyes)

History of Synthetic dye Discovery….

The first synthetic Organic Chemical Dye
Commercially 1856
successful

Mauveine
William Henry Perkin
Light Absorption by dye Solution

(Beer-Lambert Law)

41
An example of Beer–
Lambert law: green laser
light in a solution of
Rhodamine 6B. The beam
radiant power becomes
weaker as it passes
through solution

42
 UV-Visible Spectroscopy

• Ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy involves the absorption

of ultraviolet/visible light by a molecule causing the
promotion of an electron from a ground electronic state
to an excited electronic state.

• Ultraviolet / Visible light:

wavelengths (l) between 190 and 700 nm

 UV-Vis Spectrum

The two main properties of an absorbance peak are:

•Absorption wavelength λmax

•Absorption intensity Amax
Approx. lambda max????

45
 The Spectrophotometer
Measures absorbance as a function of wavelength

Components: light source, monochromator, sample

cell, detector, optical system
Tunable Monochromator

47
 Beer-Lambert Law

I0
A  log  bc   log T
It
Where,
A Absorbance or optical
density (OD)
e absorptivity; M-1 cm-1
c concentration; M
T transmittance

Beer law - absorption is proportional to the concentration of

absorbing species in the material
Lambert law - absorption is proportional to the light path length
Deviation from Beer-Lambert Law

Bbeer-lambert law assumes that

all molecules contribute to the
absorption and that no absorbing
molecule is in the shadow of
another
Transmittance, Absorbance
UV-Vis Spectrophotometer
52
UV-visible spectrum of 4-nitroanaline

NH2

NO2

Molecular mass = 138

Solvent: Ethanol
Concentration: 15.4 mg L-1
Pathlength: 1 cm
 Classification of Dye

Several different ways by which colouring

materials are classified:

Classification according to Solubility:

• Soluble Dyes (anionic or cationic)

• Disperse Dyes (non-ionic, very slightly water soluble)
• Pigments (insoluble)
 Classification of Dye

There are two practical ways to classify a dye:

 According to its chemical structure.

 According to how it is applied to materials.
 According to its chemical structure:

• Azo dyes and pigments (mono azo, diazo, etc.)

• Carbonyl Dyes and pigments (anthraquinone
and indigo derivatives)
• Cyanine Dyes
• Di and Tri-phenylmethane dyes
• Phthalocyanine dyes and pigments and others.
 According to how it is applied to materials:

o Direct Dyes
o Reactive Dyes
o Vat Dye
o Acid Dyes
o Disperse Dyes
o Azoic Colours and so on.

Dyes may be classified by fibre type, such as

dyes for cotton, for wool, silk, for nylon,
polyester, polyacrylonitrile fibres and so on.
Dyes for Cotton (Cellulosic) Fibres

S. S.
Type Type
No. No.
1. Direct Dyes 6. Azoic Colours
2. Reactive Dyes 7. Mineral Colours
3. Vat Dyes 8. Oxidation Colours
Solubilised Vat
4. 9. Pigments
Dyes
Sulphur Dyes
5.
Dyes for Protein Fibres

S. No. Type

1. Acid Dyes

Metal Complex Dyes

2. (a)1:1 Metal Complex Dyes
(b)1:2 Metal Complex Dyes

3. Chrome Mordant Dyes

4. Reactive Dyes
Dyes for Synthetic Fibres

Polyamide Fibres
S. No. Type
1. Acid Dyes
Metal Complex Dyes
2. (a)1:1 Metal Complex
(b)1:2 Metal Complex
3. Disperse Dyes
4. Reactive Dyes
Dyes for Synthetic Fibres

Polyester Fibres

1. Disperse Dyes

Polyacrylonitrile Fibres

1. Cationic Dyes

Mass Colouration (producer colour)

(Choice of colour is limited)
62
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres

S. S.
Type Type
No. No.
1. Direct Dyes 6. Azoic Colours
2. Reactive Dyes 7. Mineral Colours
3. Vat Dyes 8. Oxidation Colours
Solubilised Vat
4. 9. Pigments
Dyes
Sulphur Dyes
5.
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres
Direct Dyes
• Cheap
• Produce all types of colour
• Can be applied easily
• Washing fastness is poor

Reactive Dyes (1956, UK)

• Covalent bond formation with the fibre

• Very good washing fastness
• Bright shade
• Reacts with water also – hydrolised dye – thorough
washing required
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres
Vat Dyes

• Highest washing / light fastness

• Expensive (used for, suiting / stripes)
• Shade is dull

Solubilized Vat Dyes

• 8 – 9 colours only
• Most expensive colour
• Used for Cotton/PET for light shade
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres
Sulphur Dyes

• Very good washing fastness (used for umbrella cloth)

• Very cheap
• Produces dull shade
• Sulphur black – cheapest black
• Olive green – another shade (military, defense – so used
as large quantity) - 25% of total dyes used
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres
Azoic Colours
• Washing fastness is very good
• Colours form on the surface also – poor rubbing fastness
• Limited colour range (green shade not available)

Mineral Colours
• Obtained by depositing certain mineral oxides /
hydroxides
• Depositing Chromium / Ferrous hydroxide
One colour popular – Mineral Khakis
• Very good fastness – weathering, perspiration
• Makes the fabric harsh
• Used military, tents, etc.
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres
Oxidation Colours
• By oxidizing amines on the fabric
• Example – aniline black (anline is oxidized – popular
black)
• Very good weather & perspiration fastness
• Umbrella cloth
• Fabric strength fall ~ 30 – 40%
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres
Pigments
• Inorganic / organic
• Held to the fabric by binder
• Popular in printing
• Light fastness is not good
• Washing fastness depends on binder
• White shade can be obtained on coloured fabric

Phthalogen Blue Colours

• Colour is produced on the fabric itself (dye intermediates
are taken)
• Very bright colour, very good fastness prop.
• Only single shade
• Very specialized application technique
 DYEING
DYEING IS A PROCESS OF IMPARTING COLOUR
(Uniform colouration ).

THE OBJECTIVE OF DYEING OF TEXTILES IS THE

UNIFORM COLORATION OF THE MASS OF
FIBRES CONSTITUTING THE MATERIAL:

• POLYMER CHIPS
• FIBRES
• YARNS
• FABRICS
• GARMENTS
 Dyeing

• The colour produced should withstand external

agencies such as washing, light, rubbing, etc.

• The colour should penetrate the fibre core & be

present in the bulk of the fibre uniformly.

• Only surface colouration is known as ring dyeing.

Cross section of a
dyed fibre

Cross section of a
ring-dyed fibre
Coloration of Textiles - Methods

Dyeing in aqueous or non- aqueous medium

Mass coloration of man-made fibres

Cultivation of naturally coloured fibres

Coloration due to optical interference

Synthesis of coloured polymers

Dyeing in aqueous medium

1. Dyes and Pigments

2. Auxiliary chemicals

3. Time - Temperature Profile Process

Dyeing Cycle

4. Dyeing machines

5. Theory
75