Teaches Modern

Vegetarian Cooking
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
04
MEET YOUR
16
HONORING INGREDIENTS
44
SECOND COURSE
INSTRUCTOR: AND HONORING INSTINCTS In this section, you’ll find Chef
DOMINIQUE CRENN Take inspiration from Chef Crenn's Leek, Mushroom,
How a culinary rebel Crenn’s cooking philosophy on Potato, and Asparagus recipes
became a global icon sustainability and intuition

19 60
07
COOKING METHODS AND THE MENU
ENTRÉE
In this section, you’ll find
TOOLS OF THE TRADE Embark on reproducing Chef Chef Crenn’s Seasonal Vegetable
Acquaint yourself with the techniques Crenn’s vegetarian tasting menu and Cabbage recipes
and equipment you’ll be using

21 70
11
THE CULINARY
APERITIF
Recreate Chef Crenn’s adaption of
CHEESE COURSE
End your tasting menu
INFLUENCES OF this classic French cocktail recipe experience with Chef Crenn’s
BRITTANY, FRANCE Cheese Salad recipe
The history of the local salted butter
24
FIRST COURSE
In this section, you’ll find Chef
Crenn’s delicious and inspired
Tomato, Beet, and Melon recipes

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C H E ES E SA L A D (PAG E 7 1)

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3
 MEET YOUR INSTRUCTOR

DOMINIQUE
CRENN
How a culinary rebel became a global icon

DOMINIQUE CRENN IS ONE of the most celebrated Crenn, he rushed over and gave her a big hug—essentially
chefs in the world—yet she had to find her own way to choosing his new sibling. Growing up in the Brittany region
success. Coming of age in France, she was turned away in northwest France, Chef Crenn spent many hours working
from many culinary schools because the institutions could in her grandmother’s potato fields, foraging for mushrooms
not imagine a woman becoming a great chef. And so, at the with her father and her brother, and partaking in her family’s
age of twenty-four, Chef Crenn set out for California, Sunday dinners. Her father’s best friend, a restaurant critic
where she forged her own culinary identity rooted in per- in Brittany, sometimes brought her along on his tasting trips,
sonhood, memories, and mindfulness. As Chef Crenn puts experiences that sparked her imagination and taught Chef
it in her memoir, “If I hadn’t left France, I never would Crenn to think of cooking as a form of storytelling. All these
have discovered who I was, but discovering who I was memories, and the familial and communal love they evoked,
took me right back to France.” would become touchstones in her cooking. They would also
Chef Crenn was adopted as a toddler by Allain and Lou- provide the foundation of Chef Crenn’s developing food phi-
ise Crenn. Their two-year-old son, Jean-Christophe, accom- losophy: creating food that’s visually, texturally, and concep-
panied them to the orphanage, and as soon as he saw Chef tually exciting with a deep, emotional center.

4
 “IF I HADN’T

When she first arrived in San Fran- LE F T FR A N C E , nia, where most of the produce served at
cisco, in 1988 in her twenties, Chef Crenn Atelier Crenn is grown.
had no formal culinary training. But I N E V E R WO U LD Along the way, Chef Crenn was named
she talked her way into a job cooking at “The World’s Best Female Chef” by the
H AV E D I S C OV E R E D
Stars—at the time the city’s hottest World’s 50 Best, a U.K.-based group that
restaurant—run by American celebrity W H O I WA S , B UT publishes an annual list of the best restau-
chef Jeremiah Tower. From there, she rants in the world. But as Chef Crenn
worked at various restaurants around the D I S C OV E R I N G explains, “it felt like a double-edged
city before moving to Indonesia, where W H O I WA S TO O K
sword. There was no mistaking the impli-
she made history as the first female cation that best female chef was a lesser
executive chef in the country, leading an M E R I G HT BAC K category than the one unqualified by gen-
all-woman crew at the InterContinental der.” Five years later, the annual World’s
TO FR A N C E .”
Hotel in Jakarta. 50 Best Restaurants award ceremony pre-
Chef Crenn returned to San Francisco sented Chef Crenn with an Icon Award for
in 2008, where she helmed Luce, an CHEF CRENN being an outstanding chef and restaura-
acclaimed restaurant in the InterConti- teur. Additionally, she was named “Best
nental Hotel. Thanks in part to Chef Chef West” by the James Beard Founda-
Crenn, Luce earned a Michelin star in tion, an American culinary arts organiza-
2009, bestowed by the French tire com- tion that provides accolades honoring
pany of the same name, which awards up to three stars for American culinary professionals, and she received the
culinary excellence to select establishments in its guide- French Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite, one of the
books. With her star on the rise, Chef Crenn gained even country’s highest honors.
more mainstream recognition after she won an episode of In 2019, Chef Crenn was diagnosed with breast cancer,
Iron Chef America in 2010. but she persevered through a tough year of treatment with
Still, Chef Crenn wanted to create a restaurant of her help from her fiancée, American actress Maria Bello. With
own, a kitchen where she could express herself. With that in her health back, Chef Crenn has become even more com-
mind, she opened Atelier Crenn in San Francisco in 2011, so mitted to living with her senses open to beauty in all its
named for her father’s painting studio in Brittany. In lieu of forms. She’s returned to cooking with her twin daughters
a menu, diners receive a poem, with each dish represented and is back to work, leading the culinary teams at her
by a line of poetry. Year by year, Atelier Crenn’s reputation restaurants and beyond. She’s become an outspoken advo-
grew: It received one Michelin star in 2011, two Michelin cate for sustainability and equity in the culinary world, and
stars in 2012, and finally the highest honor of three Miche- she’s ready to teach you what she’s learned about savoring
lin stars in 2018. Meanwhile, Chef Crenn opened Petit the past and reinventing the future. Chef Crenn invites you
Crenn (a pescatarian bistro, 2015) and Bar Crenn (a Miche- to understand and appreciate vegetables on a deeper level
lin-starred vegetarian wine bar, 2018), both in San Fran- and to embrace exploration and creativity in the kitchen.
cisco, and she founded Bleu Belle Farm in Sonoma, Califor- Ready to start cooking?

5
6
 THE ESSENTIALS:
Cooking Methods and Tools of the Trade
Acquaint yourself with the techniques
and equipment you’ll be using in Chef Crenn’s class

7
 TECHNIQUES
BLANCHING G E LLI N G
Cooking food quickly in salted water Forming a semisolid or viscous
to draw out the food’s flavors and texture in ingredients by adding an
colors. If you plan on serving the emulsifying agent, such as agar-agar
blanched items later, have an ice bath (derived from algae), gelatin (derived
ready to stop them from cooking. from collagen), lecithin (derived
from soybeans or egg yolks), or pec-
BRUNOISE tin (derived from apples).
A method used to finely dice
vegetables by slicing julienne strips M I S E E N PL AC E
into 3-millimeter cubes. A French phrase that means “every-
C O LD S M O K I N G
thing in its place” and refers to
C O LD S M O K I N G preparing and organizing ingredients
Exposing food to low-temperature for later use.
smoke (about 60° to 120°/F16° to
49°C) away from the heat source for N A PPE
purposes of preservation and flavor. A desirable consistency of a thick
sauce, at which point it’s thick
C O N FIT enough to coat the back of a spoon
A technique traditionally used to and not drip off.
preserve meats by cooking them in
their own fat. The term confit, R OA S TI N G
however, can describe any ingredient A cooking method that involves
that is slow-cooked in fat at a heating food at a dry, high tempera-
low temperature. ture, usually above 400°F/204°C.
C O N FIT You typically roast food in an oven,
CONSOMMÉ although the term also refers to
A clarified and concentrated stock cooking over an open flame or in
or broth that’s served on its own a closed barbecue.
as a soup or, when cooled, used
as gelatin. SEARING
Cooking an ingredient at a high
FE R M E NTATI O N temperature to create a caramelized
A metabolic process in which the and browned crust before grilling,
activity of microorganisms creates braising, or sautéing it.
a desirable change in food and
beverages. Fermentation is used SHOCKING
to make pickled cucumbers, Plunging blanched vegetables
kombucha, kimchi, and yogurt, into ice-cold water to stop them
SHOCKING
as well as wine and beer. from cooking and preserve their
vibrant color.

8
 TOOLS
BA I N - M A R I E H I BAC H I G R I LL
A hot-water bath that slowly and Called shichirin in Japanese, this
evenly bakes food. The bain-marie barbecue grill is made from cast iron.
works by applying indirect heat Chef Crenn recommends charcoal
through steam, which tempers hot and applewood to heat the grill, but
air and prevents overcooking. You whatever fuel you choose, be sure to
can create a bain-marie by placing have plenty of ventilation if you
a heat-safe bowl over a pot of grill indoors. Always use the grill on
simmering water. a stable surface, make sure nothing
can possibly knock it over, and have
B LE N D E R a fire extinguisher nearby in case
A high-quality blender should of emergency.
include a heat-resistant canister and
H I BAC H I G R I LL
be capable of liquefying ingredients I M M E R S I O N B LE N D E R
without overheating them. Vitamix Also known as a hand blender, this
is Chef Crenn’s preferred brand compact handheld machine is used
because it offers power, precision, to purée or whip ingredients.
durability, and versatility.
I N S TA NT TH E R M O M E TE R
C H E E S EC LOTH The thermometer can read tempera-
A gauzy cotton cloth used to line a tures from a short distance without
strainer or chinois to remove solids direct contact with the food, which is
from liquids, such as sauces, or to useful for keeping oil or dough at the
drain moisture from an ingredient, right temperature.
such as cheese.
JUICER
C H E F ’ S K N I FE A countertop tool that separates the
C H E ES EC LOTH
A sharp, moderately curved knife liquid and solid components of fruits
with a blade of 6 to 14 inches in and vegetables.
length and 1.5 to 2 inches in width,
used for chopping vegetables. M A N D O LI N E
A tool with a variety of size settings
CHINOIS used for finely slicing and cutting
A conical sieve for making custard ingredients. Thin slices can be made
and straining soups and sauces. quickly and easily, but caution must
be exercised so that you don’t cut
C O N E C O FFE E FI LTE R yourself. You can wear a cut-proof
A disposable paper filter used to kitchen glove when using the man-
make coffee or to clarify liquids, such doline, especially if it doesn’t have a
as tomato water, by removing very blade or finger guard.
fine particulates that would pass
through cheesecloth.
M A N D O LI N E

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 M A N UA L K N I FE S H A R PE N E R PA S TRY S C R A PE R
This sharpener has two slots: (S I LI C O N E )
a coarse grit, to sharpen, Also known as a bench scraper,
and a fine grit, to polish. this tool removes dough that’s
stuck on countertops or the insides
M E LO N BA LLE R of bowls. You can also use it to
A utensil fitted with a metal portion, spread, and scoop food.
O FFS E T T W E E ZE R S
hemisphere of 1 to 3 centimeters
in diameter, used to scoop soft PE E LE R ( Y- S T Y LE )
ingredients into spherical shapes. A peeler with a two-sided blade
perpendicular to the handle.
MICROPLANE ZESTER/
GR ATER PR EC I S I O N D I G ITA L S CA LE
A handheld tool similar to a A digital kitchen scale allows for
woodworking rasp, which can precision measurement of the weight
be used in place of a traditional or mass of an ingredient—expressed
grater or zester to create a in pounds, grams, fluid ounces,
finer, fluffier texture. or milliliters—down to the smallest
decimal point. Place an empty
N E S TI N G C O O K I E C UT TE R S container on the digital scale
Metal cutting tools used to trim and press “tare” or “zero” before
ingredients into uniform shapes. measuring the ingredients.
PR EC I S I O N D I G ITA L S CA LE
O FFS E T T W E EZE R S SMOKER GUN
Long tweezers with a curve A device used to infuse smoky
that facilitates plating. aromas and flavors without heating
or cooking the ingredients.
PA R C H M E NT PA PE R
The paper is treated to be heat S PI D E R S K I M M E R
resistant and is coated with a A long-handled wire utensil for
thin layer of nonstick material, removing solids from liquids,
making it easy to prevent especially from boiling water or oil.
sticking without adding extra
oil to your baking tray. TA M I S
This kitchen tool is like a fine-
PA R I N G K N I FE mesh strainer. Place the tamis
A small, sharp knife with a above a bowl and put the ingredient
blade up to 4 inches in length, you want to strain onto the center
used for delicate knife work. of the mesh. Then push the
food through the tamis using a
B LE N D E R
PA S TRY BAG pastry scraper.
This is an essential decorating
and portioning tool. You can use
plastic pastry bags with inter-
changeable nozzles for decorating,
piping, and shaping fussy doughs
and batters.

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11 
THE CULINARY INFLUENCES
OF BRITTANY, FRANCE
Sweet memories of salted butter

12
 W
HEN CHEF CRENN was like the Crenn family, kouign-amann
growing up, her father was a comes from Finestère.
politician representing the Leeks, cabbages, potatoes, carrots,
far northwestern corner of and onions are also essential staples
France in a region that’s in the Breton diet. In Chef Crenn’s
gone by many names: childhood memories of Brittany,
Bretagne in French, Breizh these humble vegetables were grown,
or Bertaèyn in the native prepared, and enjoyed as a family.
Celtic or Gallo languages, and Brit- “Cabbage is one of the most underes-
tany or Little Britain in English. timated ingredients,” she reflects, but
With its ample coastline and his- “it’s one of the staple ingredients in
torical ties to Celtic cultures, Brittany Brittany where I grew up, and I love
developed a distinctive culinary tradi- it.” By applying her culinary tech-
tion that continues to be a source of nique to these foundational Breton
inspiration for Chef Crenn. One of the ingredients, Chef Crenn has trans-
oldest hearths in the world—dating formed the traditional country cook-
back to the Paleolithic era (2.5 million ing of Brittany into the inspiration for
years ago to 10,000 BCE)—was found her modern, imaginative cuisine.
in the Finistère region of Brittany, Even the most futuristic elements
where both sides of Chef Crenn’s par- of Chef Crenn’s cooking can be traced
ents can trace their roots back hun- back to her roots in Brittany. The
dreds of years. The area is also agar-agar that she carefully measures
famous for its fleur de sel, the delicate out on a digital scale, for example, is
sea salt that has been collected in the derived from seaweed, which has a
salt marshes of Guérande, in Brittany, long history in the region. For hun-
since the Iron Age (roughly 1200 dreds of years, people in Brittany and
BCE–600 BCE). Guérande salt is Ireland have collected seaweed and
prized around the world as a finishing boiled it in milk to create a gel used in
salt, and Chef Crenn always keeps it custards. These days, Brittany is the
close by so she can add a subtle flavor primary source of seaweed in Europe,
of the Brittany coast. producing the basis for everything
Fleur de sel also sets Breton butter from makeup to ingredients like the
apart. In most of France, the standard aforementioned agar-agar.
butter is unsalted and made from Now that Chef Crenn has put
sweet cream. Beurre Salé de Bretagne, down roots in California, with restau-
however, offers a richer flavor and rants and a farm around the Bay Area,
salinity, and it often comes in attrac- her cooking style has evolved further,
tive shapes, with ridges carved into responsive to her new home as well as
the blocks of butter. The best-known to the place that shaped her. For Chef
pastry of Brittany is kouign-amann, Crenn, the traditions of Brittany have
which means “butter cake” in the become a touchstone she can draw
Breizh language, and for good reason: upon as a source of inspiration and
Composed of about 30 percent butter, imagination. Let her example be an
kouign-amann is made by folding lay- invitation to remember and reinvent
ers of butter and sugar into dough, the flavors of your own heart. Then,
resulting in an even more indulgent to highlight their impact, sprinkle
variation of the croissant. And just them with some nice fleur de sel.

13 
 Brittany is famous for

its fleur de sel, the delicate

sea salt that has been

collected in the salt marshes

of Guerande, in Brittany,

since the Iron Age .

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15 
 HONORING INGREDIENTS
AND HONORING INSTINCTS
Take inspiration from Chef Crenn’s cooking philosophy

16
 “I’m here to bring back
“I want to bring
what matters—that
back nature
beautiful gift we’ve been
onto the plate.”
given from Earth.”

H O N O R YO U R HONOR THE WHOLE H O N O R N AT U R E ’ S

COMMUNITY INGREDIENT BOUNTY
Shop locally and seasonally Cook sustainably Use all parts of the vegetable

For Chef Crenn, cooking is a process Every morning at Atelier Crenn, prep By placing vegetables at the center of
that starts on the farm, in the culti- cooks start chopping vegetables and the plate, Chef Crenn invites you to
vation of ingredients from the soil. simmering stocks. But even if you recognize subtle distinctions and
Her farm, Bleu Belle, creates a deep don’t have a full kitchen staff, it’s possibilities within familiar ingredi-
connection with the produce served easy to create layers of flavor in your ents. Peel, seeds, flesh, and juice each
in her restaurants, but she still loves own vegetable stock. Chef Crenn receive thoughtful attention, ampli-
visiting farmers’ markets and recom- reminds you that “we can use every- fying sweetness here and acidity
mends that you connect with the thing.” Keep a container in the door there, until all flavors are brought
locals who grow your food. Seek out of your freezer and add scraps to it back together into a symphonic
organic producers and ask them while you’re cooking through the arrangement that reveals a sum
what’s in season, which varieties week; when it’s convenient, throw greater than its parts. Even the hum-
they love best, and if you can taste a them in a pot for a base that’ll blest vegetables can be showstop-
sample. You won’t just get the amplify and elevate your next vegeta- pers when they’re infused with cre-
best-tasting produce; you’ll also sup- ble dish. This is the wisdom of ativity and care.
port your regional economy, reduce ancient as well as modern cuisine:
packaging and transportation, and Scraps from one meal become fod-
invest your ingredients with memo- der for another, contributing depth
ries and meaning. Bringing vegeta- and building richness through layers
bles into the spotlight is an invitation of flavor that evoke memories and
to pay attention to seasonality. Use tell a story. Vegetable stock will keep
the change in seasons to inspire culi- for about five days in the refrigerator
nary reinvention. and longer in the freezer. Once stock
is ready, the vegetables strained out
can be transformed into compost and
returned to the soil, where they will
nourish a new generation of flavors.

17 
 “The best tool
in life is you—your
“It’s about food senses, your eyes,
as memory.” your taste, your
creativity, and
your confidence.”

H O N O R YO U R HONOR THE H O N O R YO U R
INSTINCTS OV E R L O O K E D PA L AT E
Connect to your intuition Foster creativity and Delve into flavors and memories
innovation in the kitchen to find your style of cooking
Before Chef Crenn even picks up a
knife, she admires her ingredients. “Often, vegetables have been treated “When you can create dishes that
“The fragrance is amazing,” she says as secondary.… It’s never been a star represent a part of you, your psyche,
as she inhales the perfume of a ripe on the plate.” We all know that vege- and your memory, it’s the best way to
melon. “Beautiful!” she murmurs to tables are healthy, and many people be able to interact with and be vul-
the tomatoes. Throughout the cook- choose plant-based diets for envi- nerable with others.” Many of the
ing process, she asks you to mobilize ronmental or ethical reasons. But too recipes featured in this course are
all of your senses, whether you’re often, vegetables are treated as an inspired by Chef Crenn’s childhood,
salting a vinaigrette to taste or obligation rather than a joy. Chef especially meals with her grand-
touching a roasted vegetable to Crenn’s modern culinary techniques mother in Brittany. But you don’t
determine if it’s done. Even the dan- inspire us to see vegetables in a new have to come from a family of great
ger of the mandoline slicer is an invi- way, to lavish the attention on vege- cooks to find inspiration in your own
tation to mindfulness in Chef tables that many cooks reserve for story. Which herbs and spices evoke
Crenn’s kitchen. As she reminds us, meat. Reintroduce yourself to your memories for you? Which ingredi-
“Be thoughtful and conscious. Cook- ingredients. How can you help them ents are beloved in your cultural tra-
ing is about paying attention.” Tune shine in new ways? ditions? What are you growing in
into the magic of your kitchen: What your garden right now? Reflecting on
will you respond to? your own emotions and history will
help you find your own voice in the
kitchen, and the food that you cook
will be rich with meaning for you and
your guests. As Chef Crenn says,
“This is your cooking. This is not
my cooking.”

18
 THE MENU
Summer has come with its cool breeze
KIR BRETON PAG E 2 2

In the sunlit garden are ruby treasures of the earth

TO M ATO PAG E 2 6

Bashful revelers emerge underfoot from the dulcet soil

B E E TS PAG E 3 4

See–the efflorescing beauty with rosy cheeks rises

M E LO N PAG E 3 7

A wild dance together, to the memories of a devotion unspoken

L E E KS PAG E 4 5

T he earthly song of the elfin singers

M U S H R O O M PAG E 4 9

In the midst of the season’s golden, fleeting display

P OTATO PAG E 5 3

As delicate creatures of green surface to bloom

A S PA R AG U S PAG E 5 6

Come with me and look into the aureate light

S E A S O N A L V E G E TA B L E S PAG E 6 1

T he taste we chase every summer will last until the winter

CA B B AG E PAG E 6 6

For the verdant bounty of the gatherer’s

harvest in caring hands
C H E E S E PAG E 7 1

19 
 FR O M TO P :
B E E T S (PAG E 3 4),
CA B BAG E (PAG E 6 6), A N D
A S PA R AG U S (PAG E 5 6)

20
 APERITIF

Summer has come

with its cool breeze

K I R B R E TO N

21 
KIR BRETON
APERITIF I SERVES 2 TO 4

TH E C L A S S I C FR E N C H K I R C O C K TA I Lwas initially known as Blanc

Cassis. It was renamed after priest Canon Félix Kir (the mayor of the Burgun-
dian town of Dijon from 1945 to 1968) was purported to have added crème de
cassis. There are several theories as to why the drink was named after Kir,
most attributing Kir to the reinvention of the drink’s new form. Kir cocktails
combine crème de cassis with white wine, but variations abound—from Kir
Royale, made with champagne, to Kir Bianco, made with sweet vermouth.
This recipe is a take on Kir Breton, which pairs hard apple cider from Brit-
tany with crème de cassis. Chef Crenn’s mother loved to greet visitors with a
glass of the aperitif, and now at Atelier Crenn, guests are welcomed with a
modern adaptation of Kir Breton—one that’s edible rather than drinkable.
(The cider is frozen into spheres encased in shells made from cocoa butter and
white chocolate, then topped with a crème de cassis reduction.) In her class,
Chef Crenn adapts Kir Breton yet again by creating a nonalcoholic (drinkable)
version that incorporates buckwheat.

E Q U I P M E NT M E TH O D until the volume of the liquid has

Baking sheet 2 days before serving: Preheat the reduced by half, about 15 minutes.
3 large lidded containers, oven to 250°F/120°C. Spread the Let the lemon–black currant mix-
such as hotel pans buckwheat groats evenly across a ture sit for 5 minutes, then ladle it
Electric or manual juicer baking sheet, and toast them in the through a cheesecloth-lined strainer
Medium saucepan oven until they’re a deep brown, into a large container. Cover the con-
Ladle about 30 minutes. tainer, and refrigerate the mixture
Cheesecloth until it has chilled, about 1 hour.
Fine-mesh strainer After 30 minutes, remove the buck- Meanwhile, remove the buckwheat–
Spoon wheat groats from the oven, and let apple juice mixture from the refrig-
Champagne flutes them cool for 10 minutes. Once erator and strain it through a cheese-
cooled, mix the groats in a large lid- cloth-lined strainer into a container.
I N G R E D I E NTS ded container with the apple juice.
100 g buckwheat groats (hulled kernels) Cover the container, place it in the To serve, spoon 2 tablespoons of the
½ gal fresh apple juice refrigerator, and let the mixture lemon–black currant mixture into
1 lemon steep for 2 days. each champagne flute. Top off each
200 g black currant (cassis) purée glass with the buckwheat apple juice.
Juice the lemon with the juicer. In a Serve cold.
medium saucepan set over medium
heat, combine the lemon juice and
the black currant purée. Simmer

22
L A TO M ATE D U JA R D I N :
TO M ATO SA L A D W ITH
C R È M E FR A Î C H E (PAG E 3 1)

23 
 FIRST COURSE
“I want to use food as a way to change
people’s way of looking at things. I want to use food
as a way to better this world.”
CHEF CRENN

24
 In the sunlit garden
are ruby treasures of the earth
25 
TOMATO ENHANCED
D E H Y D R AT E D T O M AT O P E TA L S , T O M AT O S K I N S , A N D T O M AT O P O W D E R I SERVES 4

“ TO M ATO I S N OT J U S T A S I N G U L A R TA S TE ,” Chef Crenn says. In the

following pages, she provides many recipes that capture and highlight the essence
of the tomato (such as with Tomato Illuminated, page 28, and Tomato Evolved,
page 31), each of which amplifies a particular aspect of the fruit’s flavor, from the
bright acidity of the Marinated Tomato to the earthy umami of this first recipe,
Dehydrated Tomato Petals.
This deconstruction and reconstruction of tomatoes produces an effect that’s
greater than the sum of its parts, but the individual components can also stand
on their own or be combined. Mix and match tomato varieties as you’d like, but
be sure that whichever tomatoes you choose are in season. While you’re at the
farmers’ market, look for fresh herbs and edible flowers that reflect the seasonality
and sensibility of a summer’s day. Dehydrated Tomato Petals may be transformed
into Tomato Powder in a coffee grinder, then sprinkled on Dehydrated Tomato
Petals, avocado, or any other dish that could use a helping of umami.

E Q U I P M E NT FO R TH E D E H Y D R ATE D
Make an incision at the bottom of each
tomato, then blanch and peel them
Large pot TO M ATO P E TA L S
Paring knife The flesh of 3 lb Early Girl
Large bowl (or similar size) tomatoes
Slotted spoon or spider skimmer 1 shallot, peeled and sliced
Paper towels or kitchen towel 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
Medium bowl 2 sprigs thyme
2 small baking sheets Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste
with raised sides Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Parchment paper
Dehydrator (optional) FO R S E RV I N G
Coffee grinder Tomato Powder (from the
Dehydrated Tomato Skins) Place the tomato skins and flesh
I N G R E D I E NTS Fresh herbs and edible flowers on two separate trays, then dehydrate
FO R TH E D E H Y D R ATE D (Chef Crenn uses basil buds, them in the oven
TO M ATO S K I N S Opal and Genovese basil leaves,
The peels from 3 lb Early Girl and marigold flowers)
(or similar size) tomatoes

26
TO M ATO E N H A N C E D ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 2 6 )

M E TH O D M A K E TH E D E H Y D R ATE D
M A K E TH E D E H Y D R ATE D TO M ATO P E TA L S
TO M ATO S K I N S Working on the cutting board, slice
Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a the whole peeled tomatoes into quar-
large pot set over high heat. If using an ters. Carve away the seeds and interi-
oven, preheat it to 200°F/93°C (or ors with the paring knife, then move
turn it to the “warm” setting). If using the seeds and juice into a medium
a dehydrator, set it to 130°F/55°C. bowl and set aside, but do not dis-
card—this trim will be used to make
In the meantime, use a paring knife to the Tomato Gel in Chef Crenn’s
make an X-shaped incision, roughly 1 Tomato Evolved recipe (see page 31).
inch long, on the bottom of each
tomato. Once the tomatoes are scored, Line two small baking sheets with
blanch them: Prepare an ice bath in a raised sides with parchment paper.
large bowl, leaving several inches of On one, arrange the tomato skins in
space for displacement. Use a slotted such a way that they do not touch
Season with garlic, shallots, thyme, spoon to transfer 3 to 4 tomatoes at a one another. On the other sheet,
olive oil, and kosher salt time to the boiling water, gently arrange the cleaned slices of tomato
encouraging them to stay submerged in a single layer. Add half of the shal-
with the spoon until the peels start to lot, garlic, and thyme to each tray,
separate from the flesh at the incision, then splash both trays with olive oil
about 15 seconds. and sprinkle with fleur de sel or
kosher salt. Transfer both trays to
Use a spider skimmer or slotted the warm oven or dehydrator until
spoon to remove the tomatoes from the skins are crisp to the touch and
the boiling water, then transfer them the petals look leathery and dark red
immediately to the ice bath. Keep and most of the excess moisture has
them submerged in the bath until been removed, about 1 hour and 30
Grind the Dehydrated Tomato they’re cool enough to handle, about minutes if using an oven or 3 hours if
Skins in a coffee grinder to create 1 minute. After 1 minute, transfer the using a dehydrator. The petals
a fine powder blanched tomatoes to paper towels should still be plump and not dry,
or a clean kitchen towel to remove like a sun-dried tomato.
the excess water.
To serve, lay three slices of the Dehy-
Working above a medium bowl to drated Tomato Petals on a small
catch any juices, carefully peel each plate in three parallel lines. Place a
tomato in sections from the incision handful of Dehydrated Tomato Skins
point toward the stem, keeping the into a coffee grinder, and grind them
individual peels intact as much as until they have turned to a fine pow-
possible, and set them aside on a clean der. Sprinkle 1 or 2 tablespoons of
surface. Try to not squeeze the tomato the Tomato Powder over the Dehy-
Arrange the Dehydrated Tomato juice out of the flesh. Set aside the drated Tomato Petals, making sure
Petals on a plate and garnish with whole peeled tomatoes on a clean each one is seasoned generously.
the Tomato Powder cutting board. Garnish each tomato slice with fresh
herbs and edible flowers.

27 
TOMATO ILLUMINATED
T O M AT O C O N F I T I SERVES 4

A C O N FIT I S M A D E BY S U B M E R G I N G an ingredient in oil and cooking

it over low heat for a long period of time, which concentrates the ingredient’s
flavors without drying it out. Originally developed as a form of food preserva-
tion, confits tend to keep well and can be prepared several days in advance.
Chef Crenn’s recipe for Tomato Confit illuminates the fruit’s flavor by
using this classic technique.

E Q U I P M E NT FOR THE TOMATO VINAIG RETTE

Large pot 100 g oil (reserved from the
Paring knife Tomato Confit)
Large bowl 40 g sherry vinegar or
Spider skimmer or slotted spoon Banyuls vinegar
Paper towels or kitchen towel Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Roasting pan 5 cracks (from a grinder) of
Medium bowl black pepper
Whisk
Spoon FO R S E RV I N G
Offset tweezers Fresh herbs and edible flowers
(Chef Crenn uses basil buds,
I N G R E D I E NTS Opal and Genovese basil leaves, Make incisions in the tomatoes, then
16 to 20 Dehydrated Tomato Petals and marigold flowers) blanch, shock, and peel them
(see Tomato Enhanced, page 26)

FO R TH E TO M ATO C O N F IT
20 Sungold (or similar size)
tomatoes, blanched and peeled
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 large shallot, peeled and sliced
1 sprig fresh basil, stem included
Peel of 1 lemon
Additional aromatics
(thyme, rosemary, marjoram), Season the tomatoes with shallots,
to taste (optional) lemon, basil, garlic, and kosher salt
Kosher salt, to taste
1 cup grapeseed oil or extra-virgin
olive oil

28
TO M ATO I L LU M I N AT E D ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 2 8 )

M E TH O D MAKE THE TOMATO VINAIGRETTE

Make the Dehydrated Tomato Petals In a medium bowl, whisk about 2
according to the instructions on tablespoons of the flavored grape-
page 27. Set aside. seed oil or olive oil from the Tomato
Confit together with about 1 table-
M A K E TH E TO M ATO C O N F IT spoon of the sherry vinegar or Ban-
Preheat your oven to 250°F/120°C. yuls vinegar. (You want a roughly
Batch the tomatoes by size, and then 2-to-1 ratio of oil to vinegar.) Sprin-
blanch and peel them according to kle the vinaigrette with fleur de sel or
the directions in Tomato Enhanced kosher salt, to taste, and season with
(page 27). freshly cracked black pepper.

Spread the blanched tomatoes across To serve, spoon the Sungold toma-
the bottom of a roasting pan in a sin- toes from the Tomato Confit onto
gle layer. Add the garlic, shallot, basil, paper towels to drain some of the oil.
lemon peel, and any additional aro- (The oil left in the roasting pan may
Gently pour the oil over the tomatoes matics. Sprinkle the tomatoes and be used again for another confit proj-
until they’re completely submerged other ingredients with kosher salt. ect.) Place 5 tomatoes into each bowl.
Gently pour in the grapeseed oil or Add 4 to 5 Dehydrated Tomato Petals
extra-virgin olive oil until the toma- to each bowl, then drizzle the Tomato
toes are entirely submerged. Vinaigrette over the top. Use tweezers
to adorn the bowls with the fresh
Bake the tomatoes until they’re fully herbs and edible flowers.
cooked—firm and not yet brown—for
about 1 hour. The confit is ready if the
tomatoes have softened slightly to the
touch but still maintain their hold.
(Another test: You should be able to
Mix sherry vinegar with 2 tablespoons pick them up.) If you’re serving the
of the oil from the finished Tomato Confit confit on the same day, cover it and
let it sit at room temperature until
serving. Otherwise, transfer the confit
to an airtight container and refriger-
ate it for up to 4 days (be sure to not
discard any oil; you’ll need it to make
the Tomato Vinaigrette). If you’ve
refrigerated the confit, remove the
container from the refrigerator 4
hours before serving and let the con-
fit temper in a warm place, such as on
top of a turned-on oven. Temper the
Garnish the confit tomatoes with the confit until it’s at room temperature.
Dehydrated Tomato Petals and a drizzle
of the vinaigrette

29 
30
TOMATO EVOLVED
L A T O M AT E D U J A R D I N : T O M AT O S A L A D W I T H C R È M E F R A Î C H E I SERVES 4

Chef Crenn explains that she

I N H E R M E M O I R , R E B E L C H E F,
embraces the essence of a tomato by approaching it from different angles
through a variety of preparations. “This is something visual artists under-
stand better than chefs, perhaps,” she says. “That a dish of this kind is
simultaneously a tomato and an idea of a tomato. The interplay of the two
is what I am striving for. It is possible to taste and think at the same time.”
For this recipe, the Tomato Water is a byproduct of the tomato trim, so
yield amounts are dependent on other ingredients. The steps to create the
Tomato Gel below takes this factor into account.

E Q U I P M E NT I N G R E D I E NTS FO R TH E TO M ATO G E L
Large plate 140 g Tomato Vinaigrette 350 g Tomato Water
Juicer or food processor (see Tomato Illuminated, page 28) 1.75 g kosher salt
Medium pot 20 Dehydrated Tomato Petals 0.7 g agar-agar (the amount is based
Spoon (see Tomato Enhanced, page 26) on the weight of the Tomato Water)
Small chinois or fine-mesh strainer 20 Confit Tomatoes
Coffee filter (see Tomato Illuminated, page 28) FO R TH E C R È M E F R A Î C H E
Glass jar 1 pint store-bought crème fraîche
Ladle FO R TH E M A R I N ATE D TO M ATO 1 lemon, zested and sliced into wedges
Kitchen scale 1 lb room-temperature Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Gram scale heirloom tomatoes
Small saucepan Kosher salt, to taste FO R S E RV I N G
Whisk 1 lemon, cut into wedges Marinated Tomato
Medium bowl 1 tbsp sherry vinegar or Tomato Vinaigrette
Microplane or zester Banyuls vinegar (Tomato Illuminated, page 28)
Pastry bag 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Crème fraîche
Scissors Tomato Petals
Offset tweezers FO R TH E TO M ATO WATE R (Tomato Enhanced, see page 26)
Paper towels 4 cups tomato trim ( juice, seeds, Tomato Gel
etc. from the preparation
of the other components)
2 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp sherry vinegar
Kosher salt, to taste

31 
M E TH O D M A K E TH E TO M ATO G E L Tomato plate into the Tomato Vinai-
Make the Dehydrated Tomato Petals, Use a kitchen scale to measure 350 grette. Spoon 1 tablespoon of
Tomato Vinaigrette, and Tomato grams of Tomato Water and a gram Tomato Vinaigrette onto the Mari-
Confit according to the instructions scale to measure 1.75 grams of kosher nated Tomato slices in each bowl.
on pages 27 and 29, respectively. Set salt (0.5 percent by weight) and 0.7
all three ingredients aside. grams of agar-agar (0.2 percent by Remove the crème fraîche from the
weight). Add the salt to the Tomato refrigerator, snip the end from the
An hour before serving, make the Water, and mix well. In a small sauce- pastry bag, and taste. If the crème
Marinated Tomato. Slice the heirloom pan set over medium heat, warm fraîche is seasoned to your liking,
tomatoes into ¼-inch rounds, starting about ¹⁄₃ of the salted Tomato Water pipe it in a spiral pattern over the
from the bottom, and fan the slices out until it comes to a boil. Marinated Tomato slices, starting at
on a large plate (be sure to trim away the center of the bowl. Use tweezers
the end of the tomato and save it for Lower the heat to medium-low so to arrange 5 Dehydrated Tomato Pet-
making the Tomato Water). Season the that the liquid is at a simmer. Whisk als in a radial pattern from the center.
tomato slices with kosher salt, and let vigorously while gradually pouring
them sit until their liquid starts to seep the agar-agar into the Tomato Water Spoon the Sungold tomatoes from
out, about 1 minute. Then drizzle the over the course of about 30 seconds. the Tomato Confit onto paper towels
slices with lemon juice, sherry vinegar, Once the agar-agar is incorporated, to drain some of the oil. (The leftover
and olive oil. Allow the slices to mari- immediately remove the saucepan oil may be used again for another
nate, uncovered, at room temperature from the heat, and continue whisk- confit project.) Place 4 tomatoes into
for 15 minutes. ing while slowly adding the remain- each bowl: one atop each Tomato
der of the salted Tomato Water. Petal, and a final tomato in the center.
M A K E TH E TO M ATO WATE R While the Tomato Water is still Add additional Dehydrated Tomato
Use a juicer or food processor to liq- warm, break up any clumps with the Petals and crème fraîche as desired
uefy all of the tomato trim reserved whisk, then strain the liquid through to create a pleasing visual design.
in the course of preparing the other a fine-mesh strainer into a medium
components. Transfer the tomato bowl. Transfer the bowl to the refrig- Use the spoon to break up the
juice to a medium pot and simmer erator, and let the mixture sit, uncov- Tomato Gel. Add small spoonfuls
over medium-low heat until froth ered, until it sets and becomes a gel, of the gel to the salad. Drizzle more
starts to form. Continue simmering 30 to 60 minutes. (The more gel you Tomato Vinaigrette on top of
until no more foam rises to the top make, the longer it will take to set.) everything, then use the tweezers to
and the liquid becomes mostly clear, You want the gel to be the consis- finish the dish with fresh herbs and
about 5 minutes. tency of Jell-O. edible flowers (Chef Crenn uses basil
buds, Opal and Genovese basil
Skim the froth from the surface of M A K E TH E C R È M E F R A Î C H E leaves, and marigold flowers).
the simmering Tomato Water with a Season the store-bought crème
spoon. Remove the pot from the fraîche with lemon juice, 1 tsp lemon
heat, and line a small chinois or zest, and fleur de sel or kosher salt.
strainer with a coffee filter. Place the Whisk until all of the ingredients are
chinois or strainer on top of a glass combined. Gently transfer the crème
jar, then season to taste the Tomato fraîche into a pastry bag, and refrig-
Water with lemon juice, sherry vine- erate it until you’re ready to serve.
gar, and kosher salt—but do not mix.
Ladle the Tomato Water into the To serve, arrange 3 slices of Mari-
coffee filter, and let it strain for about nated Tomato at the bottom of each
30 minutes. bowl, and transfer any leftover oil Use offset tweezers to garnish the
and tomato juice from the Marinated tomato salad with herbs and flowers

32
BEET TARTARE WITH
VAD OUVAN YO GURT

Bashful revelers emerge underfoot

from the dulcet soil
33 
BEETS
B E E T TA R TA R E W I T H VA D O U VA N YO G U R T I SERVES 4

TH E R E ’ S A LIT TLE J O K E H E R E in the preparation of beet tartare, rather

than beef tartare, but there’s also a sincere notion of taking vegetables as seri-
ously as meat. The beets are salt-crusted and roasted in a technique that draws
moisture out slowly, concentrating the flavors while distributing the heat
evenly. The final product is velvety and intense, with a salty-sweetness evoca-
tive of caramel, along with the natural muskiness of beets. Beet flavor tends
to be fairly consistent across varieties, even while beets can range in color from
white to gold to deep red (and even have a bull’s-eye pattern). When it comes
to preparing the brightest-colored varieties, gloves are a good idea, but
they’re not required.

E Q U I P M E NT I N G R E D I E NTS FOR THE BEET JUICE VINAIGRETTE

2 medium bowls FO R TH E SA LT- C R U S TE D B E E TS 4 large whole red beets
Spoon 2 large whole beets Raspberry vinegar, to taste
Roasting pan 600 g kosher salt Banyuls vinegar, to taste
Wooden spoon or mallet 400 g all-purpose flour Walnut oil, to taste
Pastry or basting brush 40 g grapeseed oil Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste
Gloves (optional) 320 g water Shallots, peeled and diced, to taste
Paper towels
Mandoline FO R TH E B E E T TA R TA R E FO R S E RV I N G
2 medium saucepans 1 kg Salt-Crusted Beets Seasonal herbs, such as red
Small chinois or fine-mesh strainer Lemon juice, to taste and green frilly mustard greens
Coffee filter Kosher salt, to taste and citrus lace, or any edible
Peeler Freshly cracked black pepper, flowers of your choosing
Juicer to taste

FO R TH E VA D O U VA N YO G U R T
100 ml grapeseed oil
25 g store-bought Vadouvan spices
200 g Greek yogurt
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Lemon juice, to taste
Fresh herbs, such as chervil, parsley,
chive, and tarragon, to taste

34
B E E T TA R TA R E ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 3 4 )

M E TH O D filter over a medium bowl. Strain the

MAKE THE SALT- CRUSTE D B E ETS seasoned Vadouvan oil, and discard
Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. the spices left in the coffee filter. Com-
Wash the whole beets, leaving the skin bine the Vadouvan oil and Greek
on. Set them aside. In a medium bowl, yogurt. Season the mixture with fleur
mix together the salt, flour, and oil. de sel or kosher salt, lemon juice, and
Slowly incorporate the water while herbs to taste. Cover and refrigerate
mixing with a spoon until a paste the yogurt until you’re ready to serve.
forms. Use your hands to cover each
of the clean beets in a thick crust of M A K E TH E B E E T J U I C E
the flour mixture, up to ½-inch thick. V I N A I G R E T TE
Press each of the encrusted beets Don gloves if using, then peel the
between your hands to ensure that the beets. Juice the peeled beets in a juicer,
mixture sticks. then transfer the juice to a medium
saucepan. Cook the juice over medium
Roast the beets in a roasting pan for heat, stirring often until the volume is
75 minutes, or until they’re easily reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Be
pierced with a knife. Remove the Salt- sure to stir all the way to the bottom of
Crusted Beets from the oven, and let the pot to prevent scorching or uneven
“ WH E N YO U B U I LD them cool slightly in the pan, about 15 cooking. Season to taste with the vine-
minutes. Use a wooden spoon or mal- gars, oils, and shallots.
A D I S H , IT ’ S LI K E
let to crack open the salt crust, then
WALK I N G brush away the excess salt that’s stuck To serve, place the beet mixture in a
to the beets after removing the crust. circle in the center of each plate. Make
TH RO U G H LI FE . If you’re using gloves, put them on, a divot in the center of the beet mix-
then use a paper towel to rub off the ture with a spoon, then scoop in the
ALL TH E L AY E R I N G
skins from the beets. yogurt. Decorate the dish with the
O F LI FE THAT herbs, edible flowers, and microgreens.
M A K E TH E B E E T TA R TA R E
YO U LOVE AN D Set the mandoline to 5 millimeters,
FE E L—THAT
and carefully slice the raw Salt-
Crusted Beets. Use a sharp knife to
N E E D S TO G E T brunoise the slices: Cut the slices into
3-millimeter matchsticks, turn them
I NTO YO U R FO O D.”
90 degrees, then slice the matchsticks
again crosswise. Season the cut beets
CHEF CRENN with lemon juice, kosher salt, and
pepper, to taste.

M A K E TH E VA D O U VA N YO G U R T
In a medium saucepan, add the grape-
seed oil and Vadouvan spices, and
bring the mixture to a simmer. Once a
simmer is achieved, take the saucepan
off the heat and let it cool until it
comes to room temperature. Place a
chinois or strainer lined with a coffee

35 
36
MELON ENHANCED
M A R I N AT E D H O N E Y D E W R I B B O N S I SERVES 4

FR O M B R I G HT O R A N G E S U G A R K I S S M E LO N S to tart Green Thumb M E TH O D

watermelons, the diversity and beauty of melon varieties are breathtaking and C UT A N D S LI C E TH E M E LLO N
inspiring. Chef Crenn celebrates the melon family with an array of colors, tex- Using a chef’s knife, follow the melon
tures, and flavors in three melon recipe variations, starting with Melon Enhanced. carving directions, then halve each
There are dozens of heirloom melon varieties available at farmers’ markets in honeydew to create four quarter-
the summertime; in this first recipe, Chef Crenn chooses to feature honeydew. melon wedges. Set the mandoline
If you’re unable to find honeydew, have a chat with your local farmer or grocer slicer to a thin (⅛-inch) setting. Care-
about which in-season melons you can use as a substitute. fully push the quarter-melon pieces
along the mandoline blade to make
delicate ribbons. Once the honeydew
E Q U I P M E NT is too small to slice safely, discard the
M E LO N CA RV I N G 2 large bowls remaining pieces or enjoy them later.
Spoon
Mandoline M A R I N ATE TH E M E LO N
Before carving, be sure you have Platter or tray Fan out the honeydew ribbons on a
two large bowls available: one for platter or tray. Cut the lemon and lime
the melon meat trim and seeds, I N G R E D I E NTS in half lengthwise, avoiding the seeds
and the other for the melon rind. 1 honeydew or similar at the center. Squeeze the juice of half
Using a chef’s knife, cut both heirloom varietal of the lemon and half of the lime
ends off the melon, and place the ½ lemon onto the melon ribbons. Reserve the
melon flat side down on a cutting ½ lime remaining lemon and lime for use in
board. Holding the top of the Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste Melon Evolved (see page 40).
melon still, slice downward along High-quality extra-virgin olive oil,
the curve of the melon’s flesh to to taste Clean and dry your fingers, then
carve away the rind, reserving sprinkle fleur de sel or kosher salt
these trims for use in a melon vin- onto the melon ribbons, to taste.
aigrette later, if desired, by placing Drizzle the melon ribbons with
them in one of the large bowls. high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, to
Turn the melon to continue carv- taste. Set the ribbons aside for 5 to 10
ing the next section of rind. Trim minutes to fully marinate.
any areas from the melon that feel
hard or look lighter in color. Place To serve, arrange the melon ribbons
the skinned melon on a clean on a plate so that they slightly overlap.
kitchen towel to prevent it from Drizzle the ribbons with more olive
sliding, then cut the melon in half. oil and sprinkle them with fleur de
Using a spoon, scoop out the inte- sel, to taste.
rior seeds and place them in the
other large bowl.

37 
MELON ILLUMINATED Remove the melon slices from the
bowl, reserving the marinade. Wipe
any large pieces of seasoning off each
piece of melon, then place the wedges
GRILLED AND ROASTED BRILLIANT MELON I SERVES 4
flat side down onto the hot grill or
into the hot skillet. If you’re wearing
gloves, you can remove them now.
Once the melon wedges have browned
and caramelized on one side, about 5
I N TH I S N E X T M E LO N R EC I PE VA R I ATI O N ,Chef Crenn highlights minutes, use tongs to rotate the slices
Brilliant melon, also known as Canary melon. Through a mix of savory, spicy, and brown the other sides.
and sweet flavors, this recipe showcases the melon’s rich versatility as an
ingredient. If you’re unable to find Brilliant melons, have a chat with your local R OA S T TH E M E LO N
farmer or grocer about which in-season melons you can use as a substitute. After the melon slices are browned
on all sides, transfer them to a roast-
ing pan and pour in the reserved mar-
E Q U I P M E NT M E TH O D inade. Roast the melon, uncovered,
Hibachi grill or medium skillet M A K E YO U R M I S E E N P L AC E until it softens and liquid begins to
3 large bowls Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C, and seep out, about 7 minutes.
Spoon preheat the hibachi grill (if you’re
Gloves (optional) using one) to high heat. Using a chef’s C O LD - S M O K E TH E M E LO N
Tongs knife, follow the instructions for I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A S M O K I N G G U N :
Roasting pan melon carving on page 37, then cut Light the applewood in the smoking
Smoking gun (optional) the melon into 8 wedges of roughly gun, and place the smoking tube in
⅛ cup applewood or equal size and place them in a large the roasting pan. Tightly cover the
other aromatic wood bowl. If you’re using gloves, put them pan with aluminum foil, and smoke
Aluminum foil on now, then peel and roughly slice for 25 minutes.
Offset tweezers the shallot, garlic, and ginger. You
might like to include red pepper in the I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A R OA S TI N G PA N :
I N G R E D I E NTS dish as well—whatever speaks to you. Place the applewood or other aro-
1 Brilliant melon or similar Slice both the lemon and limes matic wood onto a sheet of aluminum
heirloom varietal lengthwise into wedges to juice them. foil, and fold the sides of the foil up
1 shallot to separate the wood from the food.
1 clove garlic M A R I N ATE TH E M E LO N Place the foil packet on one side of
30 g ginger Add the shallot, garlic, ginger, red the roasting pan, and place the melon
Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional) pepper flakes (if using), citrus, olive on the other side. Tightly cover the
1 Meyer lemon oil, and fleur de sel or kosher salt to entire pan with aluminum foil, and set
2 limes the bowl with the Brilliant melon it aside to smoke for 25 minutes.
Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste, wedges. Using your hands, coat the
plus more if searing melon well with all the ingredients. To serve, cut the melon into bite-size
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste Set the bowl aside for 5 to 10 minutes. cubes, and arrange the pieces down
the center of a plate. Drizzle some of
FO R S E RV I N G G R I LL TH E M E LO N the marinade on top of the melon
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste If you’re using a hibachi grill, it should cubes, then season with fleur de sel
Micro cilantro (about 20 leaves, be hot by now; if you’re using a skillet, or kosher salt, to taste. Using offset
5 per plate) coat the bottom of the pan with olive tweezers, garnish the dish with
oil and heat the oil over high heat. micro cilantro.

38
 See– the efflorescing beauty
with rosy cheeks rises

MELON SALAD

39 
MELON EVOLVED
FO R TH E G R I LLE D A N D
M A R I N ATE D M E LO N
1 Brilliant melon
Extra-virgin olive oil (if searing)
MELON SALAD I SERVES 4 1 tsp lime zest
1 tbsp champagne vinegar
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp lime juice
Fleur de sel or kosher salt,
take your dish to the
I N TH I S FI N A L M E LO N R EC I PE VA R I ATI O N , measured in accordance
next level by using multiple melon varietals as well as multiple cooking tech- with the Melon Water
niques. For a simpler version of this layered ode to melon, prepare the grilled ¼ cup Melon Water
component on its own and serve it with fresh lettuces and vinaigrette.
FO R TH E M E LO N G E L
200 g Melon Water
E Q U I P M E NT I N G R E D I E NTS 0.7 g agar-agar
Mandoline FO R TH E G R I LLE D M E LO N
Chef’s knife MARINADE FO R S E RV I N G
2 large bowls 2 cloves garlic Grilled and Marinated Melon
Spoon 1 ½-inch piece of ginger (honeydew, Melon Enhanced)
Melon baller 2 large shallots Melon Honeydew Ribbons (Melon
2 medium bowls ½ jalapeño, deseeded Enhanced)
Food processor (e.g., Robot Coupe) Roasted Melon (Brilliant, Melon
or juicer FO R TH E M E LO N BA LL S Illuminated)
Chinois or large strainer A N D M E LO N WATE R Melon Balls and Gel (cantaloupe)
Cheesecloth 2 cantaloupes Seasonal fresh herbs and edible
2 deep containers flowers, such as shiso, basil,
Ladle marjoram, and marigold, to taste
Hibachi grill or medium skillet 1 lime wedge
Tongs Reserved Melon Marinade
Roasting pan (honeydew, Melon Evolved)
Smoking gun (optional)
¼ cup applewood or other
aromatic wood
Aluminum foil
Gloves (optional)
Kitchen scale
Gram scale
Small saucepan
Whisk
Fine-mesh strainer
Offset tweezers
Fork

40
M E L O N E V O LV E D ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 4 0 )

M E TH O D I F YO U ’ R E G R I LLI N G TH E
Prepare the ingredients for the Grilled B R I LLI A NT M E LO N :Preheat the
Melon Marinade. Peel the garlic, gin- hibachi grill to medium heat. Once
ger, and shallots, then use a mando- the grill is hot, place the whole Bril-
line to thinly slice them along with liant melon on the grill. Once the
the jalapeño. Set aside. melon is browned and caramelized
on one side, about 5 minutes, use
M A K E TH E M E LO N BA LL S tongs to rotate it and brown the other
Using a chef’s knife, carve one canta- sides. Transfer the seared melon to a
loupe according to the instructions cutting board, and cut the grilled
on page 37. Once the melon is free of melon into 2-inch cubes. Transfer the
its rind, use a melon baller to scoop cubes to a roasting pan.
out about 20 spheres into a medium
bowl (you’ll use 3 to 5 spheres per I F YO U ’ R E S E A R I N G TH E
Ladle the melon purée into serving). Cover and refrigerate the Coat a medium
B R I LLI A NT M E LO N :
a cheesecloth-lined strainer
bowl until you’re ready to serve. skillet with extra-virgin olive oil, and
set the skillet over medium-high heat.
M A K E TH E M E LO N WATE R Warm the oil until it shimmers. Cut
Halve the second cantaloupe, and the melon into 2- to 3-inch wedges,
spoon out the seeds from each half. and place the wedges flat side down
Place the seeds into the large bowl in the skillet. Once the melon is
containing the other melon trim. Cut browned and caramelized on one
the remaining cantaloupe into 2- to side, about 5 minutes, use tongs to
3-inch pieces. Transfer the cantaloupe rotate it and brown the other sides.
pieces to a food processor or juicer, Transfer the seared melon to a cutting
and pulse until the melon is liquefied, board, and cut the grilled melon into
Brown and caramelize the melon less than 1 minute. Line a chinois or 2-inch cubes. Transfer the cubes to a
wedges on the grill, smoking them strainer with cheesecloth, and place roasting pan.
with a fan as you wait
the lined strainer over a deep con-
tainer. Ladle the cantaloupe purée Add the garlic, ginger, jalapeño, shal-
into the lined strainer, and allow it to lots, lime zest, champagne vinegar,
strain overnight in the container. A and lemon and lime juice to the roast-
portion of the Melon Water will be ing pan. Weigh the Melon Water, and
used to make the Grilled and Mari- add 0.5 percent of its weight in salt
nated Melon, and a portion will be (i.e., 0.5 grams of salt for every 100
used to make the Melon Gel. grams of liquid). Pour ¼ cup of Melon
Water over the cubed melon (reserv-
M A K E TH E G R I LLE D A N D ing the rest for the gel), and use your
M A R I N ATE D M E LO N hands to coat the grilled melon well.
Pour the Melon Water over the Follow the instructions for melon
seasoned and grilled melon carving on page 37 to remove the rind C O LD - S M O K E TH E M E LO N
of the Brilliant melon. IF USING A SMOKING GUN: Light the
applewood or other aromatic wood in
the smoking gun, and place the smok-
ing tube in the pan. Tightly cover the
pan with aluminum foil, and smoke
for 25 minutes.

41 
I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A R OA S TI N G PA N : mer for 15 seconds. Then immedi-
Place the applewood or other aro- ately remove the pan from the heat,
matic wood onto a sheet of aluminum and continue whisking while slowly
foil, and fold the sides of the foil up to adding the remaining Melon Water.
separate the wood from the food. While the liquid is still warm, pour
Place the foil packet on one side of the the mixture through a fine-mesh
roasting pan, and place the melon on strainer into a medium bowl. Trans-
the other side. Tightly cover the entire fer the bowl to the refrigerator and
pan with aluminum foil, and place it in let it sit, uncovered, until the gel is
the oven without heat for 25 minutes. set, anywhere from 30 minutes to 1
hour. You want the gel to be the con-
Line a chinois or strainer with a sistency of Jell-O.
fresh piece of cheesecloth, and place
the strainer over a deep container. To serve, remove the stems from the
Cold smoke the grilled melon wedges
Strain the contents of the roasting fresh herbs and edible flowers, or
pan, including the liquid. You may finely chop them if desired. Slice the
want to squeeze the melon pieces Grilled and Marinated Melon into
with tongs or a gloved hand before slender, bite-size pieces. Arrange the
letting the contents of the pan sit pieces on a plate, with some pieces
until they’re fully strained, about 5 to oriented vertically or diagonally to
10 minutes. create dimension.

M A K E TH E M E LO N G E L Use the tweezers to roll the Mari-

Use a kitchen scale to measure 200 nated Honeydew Ribbons (see page
grams of Melon Water. Use a gram 37) into loose cylinders, and place a
scale to measure 0.7 grams of agar- few ribbons around the plate Incorporate the agar-agar into
agar. Incorporate the agar-agar into (odd-numbered groupings look best). the Melon Water
the Melon Water: Set a small sauce- Add a few cantaloupe balls to create a
pan over medium-low heat, and warm pleasing visual design. Use a fork to
about 1/3 of the Melon Water until it’s break up the Melon Gel, then add
simmering. Do not allow the water to small spoonfuls of it to the salad.
come to a boil. Squeeze the lime over the salad, and
spoon some of the liquid from the
Whisk vigorously while gradually honeydew marinade on top. Finish
pouring agar-agar into the Melon the dish by using tweezers to arrange
Water over the course of about 30 the fresh herbs and edible flowers.
seconds. Once the agar-agar is incor-
porated, bring the contents to a sim- Assemble the components of the
melon salad and garnish with
fresh herbs and edible flowers

42
POMMES PURÉE WITH LEEKS
AND BEURRE BLANC (PAG E 5 3)

43 
 SECOND COURSE
“Cooking doesn’t have to be perfect.
Cooking is ver y subjective. Sometimes there are
imperfections that make the dish perfect.”
CHEF CRENN

44
LEEKS
CONFIT LEEKS WITH BÉARNAISE SAUCE I SERVES 4

LE E KS B E LO N G TO TH E G E N U S A LLI U M , along with onions, garlic,

shallots, and other plants prized for their aromatic qualities. Many of Chef
Crenn’s recipes include a bit of allium, but this recipe showcases the full range of
their flavors, from the natural sweetness of leeks to the boldness of garlic.
Unlike most alliums, which form as tight bulbs, leeks produce a long cylinder of
tightly bundled leaves that push their way out of the soil, so it’s important to wash
them well. Chef Crenn recommends trimming the root end and the green leaves
before submerging the white part of the leek in water to dissolve any excess dirt.
Place the trimmed leeks in a roasting
pan, then submerge them in the
Warm Vinaigrette. Confit until tender E Q U I P M E NT FO R TH E C O N F IT LE E K S
3 medium saucepans Warm Vinaigrette
Instant thermometer
Roasting pan FO R TH E B É A R N A I S E SAU C E
Fine-mesh strainer 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Small glass bowl 1 shallot, peeled and diced
Large stainless steel bowl or 5 tbsp dry white wine
double boiler 5 tbsp vermouth
Whisk 3 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 spoons 2 sprigs tarragon
Tongs 2 sprigs thyme
Cook the white wine vinegar, tarragon, Paper towels 2 egg yolks
and thyme Offset tweezers 4 tbsp unsalted butter, diced into
small pieces
I N G R E D I E NTS Lemon juice, to taste
4 medium leeks Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
FO R TH E WA R M V I N A I G R E T TE 1 to 2 tbsp sherry vinegar, to taste
200 g extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed FO R S E RV I N G
1 bay leaf, torn Reserved Warm Vinaigrette/confit
2 sprigs thyme cooking liquid
100 g champagne vinegar or 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
cider vinegar 2 tbsp lemon juice, to taste
Spoon a generous amount of the
100 g water 2 batons fresh chives, chopped into
béarnaise sauce over the leeks
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste 1-inch spears
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste Fresh herbs, such as parsley, chervil,
and tarragon (optional)

45 
 A wild dance together, to the
memories of a devotion unspoken

CONFIT LEEKS WITH

BÉARNAISE SAUCE

46
47 
L E E K S ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 4 5 )

M E TH O D muted, another 5 minutes. Add the Keeping the temperature in the bowl
Preheat the oven to 325°F/163°C. white wine vinegar, tarragon, and or double boiler a bit cooler than
Trim the root end from the leeks. thyme, and lower the heat to medi- before, add the diced butter in
Keeping the white portion of the um-low. Cook until the flavors have batches and continue to whisk vigor-
leeks intact, chop off the green ends, infused into the liquid, about 2 minutes. ously until all the butter is combined.
and discard them or save them for Bring the bowl or double boiler back
use in a vegetable stock. Soak the After about 2 minutes, strain the vinai- to the heat, then remove it again
trimmed leeks in water to clean. grette reduction through a fine-mesh repeatedly as you whisk. The tem-
strainer into a small glass bowl. Con- perature should stay warm enough
M A K E TH E WA R M V I N A I G R E T TE firm that all the shallot and herb pieces to incorporate the butter but cool
Warm the olive oil in a medium sauce- have been removed from the liquid. enough to prevent the emulsion
pan set over medium heat. Use an from breaking. After all the butter is
instant thermometer to check that the P R E PA R E A BA I N - M A R I E incorporated, season the sauce with
temperature of the liquid stays below In a medium saucepan set over the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and
300°F/149°C. Add the smashed garlic, medium heat, bring 2 inches of water sherry vinegar.
torn bay leaf, and thyme to the oil. to a simmer. Place a large stainless
steel bowl or double boiler over the To serve, use tongs to carefully trans-
Once you see the thyme begin to saucepan. Lower the heat to medi- fer the warm confit leeks to paper
crisp, pour in the champagne vinegar um-low, and add the egg yolks to the towels (reserve the cooking liquid).
or cider vinegar and water. Raise the bowl or double boiler. Whisk the Once the excess oil has drained from
heat to high, but do not allow the vin- yolks vigorously, removing the bowl the leeks, transfer them to a cutting
aigrette to boil. Season with salt and or double boiler from the heat when- board, and slice them into uneven
pepper, to taste, then remove the pan ever the yolks begin to harden. Once cylinders about 1 to 2 inches in length.
from the heat. the yolks begin to thicken, after
about 2 minutes, gradually add the Arrange 3 to 4 of the tallest leek
C O N F IT TH E LE E K S vinaigrette reduction while continu- pieces vertically on each plate,
Remove the leeks from the water and ing to whisk vigorously. Make sure with shorter leeks clustered closely
dry them, then transfer them to a the water stays at a simmer and the around them to create towers.
roasting pan. Pour the Warm Vinai- yolks do not start to cook. The mix- Season the reserved confit cooking
grette over the leeks until they’re ture should thicken enough to coat liquid with sherry vinegar and
mostly submerged. Confit the leeks in the back of a spoon without running. lemon juice, then spoon the sea-
the oven until they’re tender, about Adjust the temperature in the bowl soned liquid onto the leeks, to taste.
30 minutes. or double boiler by removing it from Spoon a generous amount of
the heat as needed to prevent the béarnaise sauce onto the leeks so
M A K E TH E B É A R N A I S E SAU C E sauce from breaking (when the oil that the sauce drips down the cylin-
Heat the olive oil in a medium sauce- separates from the reduction; it will ders unevenly. Use tweezers to
pan set over medium heat, then add look pooled with droplets of solids garnish the dish with chives and
the diced shallot. Once the shallot floating in oil). other fresh herbs, if using, to taste.
begins to warm, after about 2 minutes,
add the white wine and vermouth to After 1 more minute, remove the
the saucepan. Let the mixture reduce bowl or double boiler from the heat.
by half for about 10 minutes. After 10 Dip the back of a spoon into the
minutes, remove the saucepan from mixture. Test the emulsion by hold-
the heat and taste the liquid. If the ing the spoon vertically: The mixture
alcohol flavor is strong, return the should cling to the spoon and be
saucepan to the heat and continue homogeneous in texture.
cooking until the alcohol flavor is

48
MUSHROOM
ESSENCE OF MUSHROOM I SERVES 4

U N LI K E PL A NTS , W H I C H N E E D A I R A N D S U N LI G HT to grow, fungi M E TH O D

flourish deep underground and produce mushrooms as a fruiting body that M A K E TH E M U S H R O O M S TO C K
can spread spores above the soil. In this recipe, Chef Crenn celebrates and In a large stockpot set over high heat,
emphasizes the earthiness of mushrooms by charring onions and smoking bring the purified water to a simmer.
eggs, which evoke the smells of a forest on a wet day, and reducing a mushroom Preheat the hibachi grill or heat
broth down to its richest essence. the olive oil in a medium skillet set
over high heat.

E Q U I P M E NT ½ white onion Place the ½ onion cut side down

Large stockpot with lid 90 g leek, trimmed and diced on the grill or in the skillet, and char
Hibachi grill or medium skillet 15 g thyme it until blackened, about 5 minutes.
Fine-mesh strainer 2 heads garlic, peeled After 5 minutes, add the blackened
Container or jar 5 lb cremini mushroom stems onion, leek, thyme, and garlic
Kitchen scale to the stockpot.
Gram scale FO R TH E M U S H R O O M G E L
Small saucepan 200 g Mushroom Stock Separate the mushroom stems from
Whisk 0.4 g agar-agar the mushroom caps, and set the caps
Medium bowl aside (you’ll need them to serve the
4 serving bowls FO R TH E C O N F IT C O LD - S M O K E D dish). Add the stems to the stockpot,
Roasting pan E G G YO LK S and continue to simmer. If the liquid
¼ cup applewood or other 5 egg yolks begins to boil, you can lower the heat,
aromatic wood Extra-virgin olive oil (enough to but you should see steam rising.
Smoking gun (optional) completely cover the egg yolks) Simmer for 1 hour, until the liquid is
Hotel pan (optional) reduced by half and the color is a
Aluminum foil FO R TH E M U S H R O O M FOA M deep brown. Once the liquid is reduced
Medium saucepan 150 g Mushroom Stock by half, strain it through a fine-mesh
Immersion blender or milk frother 44 g whole milk strainer into a container or jar,
Slotted spoon 1 tsp lecithin and set it aside.
Plate or tray Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Paper towels M A K E TH E M U S H R O O M G E L
Mandoline FO R S E RV I N G Use a kitchen scale to measure 200
Basting brush Smoked Egg Yolk Confit grams of Mushroom Stock. Use a
Offset tweezers Cremini mushroom caps (reserved gram scale to measure 0.4 grams of
from Mushroom Stock) agar-agar. Incorporate the agar-agar
I N G R E D I E NTS 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil into the Mushroom Stock: In a small
FO R TH E M U S H R O O M S TO C K Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste saucepan set over medium-low heat,
3 liters purified water Nasturtium or other fresh herbs, warm about 1/3 of the Mushroom
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil to taste

49 
T he earthly song of the elfin singers

ES SENCE OF MUSHRO OM

50
51 
M U S H R O O M ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 4 9 )

Stock until it’s simmering. Do not I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A R OA S TI N G PA N : Spoon Mushroom Foam into the half-
allow the water to come to a boil. Place the applewood or other aro- moon of negative space opposite the
matic wood onto a sheet of aluminum mushroom slices. Use tweezers to
Whisk vigorously while gradually foil, and fold the sides of the foil up to arrange nasturtium or other fresh
pouring agar-agar into the Mushroom separate the food from the wood. herbs atop the mushrooms and the
Stock over the course of about 30 sec- Place the foil packet on one side of the foam, then finish by sprinkling the
onds. Once the agar-agar is incorpo- roasting pan, and place the egg yolks Confit Cold-Smoked Egg Yolks with
rated, immediately remove the pan on the other side. Tightly cover the fleur de sel.
from the heat, and continue whisking entire pan with aluminum foil, and let
while slowly adding the remaining it sit at room temperature or place it in
Mushroom Stock. While the liquid is the oven without heat for 25 minutes.
still warm, strain the mixture through
a fine-mesh strainer into a medium M A K E TH E M U S H R O O M FOA M
bowl. Portion the gel equally into 4 In a medium saucepan set over
serving bowls. Refrigerate the bowls, medium-low heat, combine the Mush-
uncovered, until the gel is set, about room Stock and the milk, and bring
15 minutes. You want the gel to be the the mixture to a simmer. Once the liq-
consistency of Jell-O. uid is simmering, remove the sauce-
pan from the heat and add the leci-
Fan out the mushroom slices on a tray,
M A K E TH E C O N F IT C O LD - thin. Season with fleur de sel or
and lightly baste them with olive oil
S M O K E D E G G YO LKS kosher salt, to taste. Use an immersion
Preheat the oven to 200°F/93°C. Place blender or milk frother to aerate the
the egg yolks in a roasting pan filled mixture and create a stable foam,
with olive oil. Be sure there is enough about 1 minute.
oil to cover the yolks completely.
Confit the egg yolks in the oven for To serve, use a slotted spoon to gently
20 minutes. scoop the Confit Cold-Smoked Egg
Yolks onto a plate or tray lined with
After 20 minutes, take the egg yolk paper towels to drain any excess oil.
confit out of the oven, and let it cool Meanwhile, cut each cremini mush-
at room temperature for 10 minutes. room cap in half to prepare for scaling
After 10 minutes, gently touch the egg on a mandoline. Set the mandoline to Cold smoke the egg yolks in the
roasting pan
yolks to check that the exteriors are 2 millimeters, and carefully slice the
firm and the centers are soft; if neces- cremini caps flat side down. Fan the
sary, return the egg yolk confit to the slices out onto a plate. With a basting
oven for another 1 to 2 minutes. brush, lightly coat one side of the
mushroom slices with olive oil, then
C O LD - S M O K E TH E E G G YO LKS season the mushrooms with fleur de
I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A S M O K I N G G U N : sel or kosher salt, to taste.
Light the applewood or other aro-
matic wood in the smoking gun. Take the 4 bowls with the set Mush-
Place the roasting pan into a con- room Gel out of the refrigerator. Use
tainer, such as a hotel pan, and place a slotted spoon to place 1 egg yolk in
the smoking tube in the container. the center of the gel. Use tweezers to Spoon Mushroom Foam opposite
Tightly cover the container with a lid arrange the mushroom slices on one the fanned mushroom slices
or aluminum foil, and let the container side of the yolk. Leave a half-moon
sit for 10 to 15 minutes to smoke. of negative space.

52
POTATO
POMMES PURÉE WITH LEEKS AND BEURRE BLANC I SERVES 4

FO R TH I S R EC I PE , C H E F C R E N N draws on her memories of family M E TH O D

dinners to elevate the humble potato into a showstopper in its own right, M A K E TH E LE E K FO N D U E
and the secret is good, salted butter. In most of France, unsalted butter In a large saucepan, melt the butter
is the default choice, but salted butter is favored in Chef Crenn’s home over low heat, and then add the sliced
region of Brittany (see page 13), where a meal might begin with a toast: leeks. Cook them until they’re very
Au bon beurre salé! Here’s to good, salted butter! soft, stirring often, about 25 minutes.

After 25 minutes, add the mustard

E Q U I P M E NT FO R TH E F R I E D LE E K S (if using), crème fraîche, and lemon
2 large saucepans 1 leek, trimmed juice to the saucepan. Continue
Small saucepan or fryer 2 cups canola oil to cook over low heat for 10 minutes.
Instant thermometer Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste After 10 minutes, season the fondue
Slotted spoon with fleur de sel or kosher salt and
Paper towel–lined plate FO R TH E LE E K P OW D E R freshly cracked black pepper, to taste.
2 baking sheets 1 leek, trimmed
Dehydrator (optional) M A K E TH E F R I E D LE E K S
Coffee grinder FO R TH E M A S H E D P OTATO E S Slice the trimmed leek into 3-inch
Airtight container (P O M M E S P U R É E ) sections, then cut each section in half.
Blender 500 g cooked and peeled Yukon Slice the leek segments lengthwise
Spatula Gold potatoes and as thinly as possible, creating
Whisk 100 g store-bought crème fraîche 3-inch matchsticks. In a small sauce-
Whipped cream charger 100 g unsalted butter pan or fryer, heat the canola oil to
Spoon Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste 330°F/166°C. (If you’re using a sauce-
Offset tweezers pan, be sure to use an instant ther-
Fine-mesh strainer FO R TH E B E U R R E B L A N C mometer to check the temperature.)
200 g white wine
I N G R E D I E NTS 25 g shallot, peeled and diced With a saucepan or fryer: Fry the leek
FO R TH E LE E K FO N D U E 10 g garlic, peeled and diced matchsticks until they just start to
30 g salted butter 5 sprigs tarragon brown, about 4 minutes. If they
600 g leek, trimmed and sliced 2 bay leaves become golden brown, they’ve been
into rounds 175 g unsalted butter, diced cooked too much and will be bitter.
1 tbsp Dijon mustard (optional) into small pieces Remember: They will continue to
2 tbsp crème fraîche 10 g lemon juice crisp as they cool.
2 tbsp lemon juice Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste Use a slotted spoon to remove the
Freshly cracked black pepper, leeks from the hot oil, and transfer
to taste them to a plate lined with paper tow-
els. Season the leeks with fleur de sel

53 
 POMMES PURÉE WITH LEEKS
AND BEURRE BLANC

or kosher salt, to taste. Transfer the

seasoned leeks to a baking sheet, and
place the baking sheet in the oven
on the lowest temperature or in a
dehydrator set to 130°F/55°C, until
ready to serve.

M A K E TH E LE E K P OW D E R
Preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C.
Thinly slice the trimmed leek into
¼-inch rounds, then spread the slices
in a thin layer on a baking sheet. Bake
until the slices are dark brown and
completely charred, about 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, allow the leeks to

cool completely. Once they’re cool,
use a coffee grinder to grind them in
batches until they become a powder.
Store the powder in an airtight con-
tainer until you’re ready to serve.

M A K E TH E M A S H E D P OTATO E S
In a blender, purée the Yukon Gold
potatoes, gradually adding the crème
fraîche, butter, and fleur de sel or
kosher salt. If the mixture is too

In the midst of the season’s

thick, add a small amount of filtered
water until the purée reaches your
desired texture.

M A K E TH E B E U R R E B L A N C
In a large saucepan set over medium
heat, combine the white wine, shallot,
golden, fleeting display
garlic, tarragon, and bay leaves. Cook,
stirring with a spatula, until the liquid
has almost entirely reduced, about
5 minutes. After 5 minutes, remove
the tarragon and bay leaves. sel or kosher salt, to taste. Keep the the Leek Fondue. Spoon the Beurre
Beurre Blanc in a warm place until Blanc around each dollop of potato.
Turn the heat to low. Add the butter you’re ready to serve.
a few pieces at a time while stirring Use tweezers to arrange the Fried
rapidly with a whisk until all the To serve, portion the Leek Fondue Leeks around the bowl. Transfer
butter has been incorporated. Once into each bowl. Transfer the Mashed 1 tablespoon of Leek Powder into
the butter has been incorporated, Potatoes into a whipped cream char- a fine-mesh strainer, and tap the
remove the pan from the heat and ger, and charge it twice. Discharge strainer several times above each
season with lemon juice and fleur de three distinct dollops of potato atop plate to lightly dust the dish.

54
GRILLED ASPARAGUS
WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE

As delicate creatures
of green surface to bloom
55 
ASPARAGUS
G R I L L E D A S PA R AG U S W I T H C R È M E F R A Î C H E I SERVES 4

TH I S R EC I PE B EG I N S W ITH B O N U S C O NTE NT vegetable stock,

a cornerstone of French home cooking, which is made from whatever
vegetables are available to you at a given moment in time.
Chef Crenn recommends that you start the stock first and add the vege-
table trim (discarded parts like stems, seeds, and rinds) as you prepare your
mise en place, so that the liquid absorbs the flavors of asparagus. Feel free
to express the particularity of the season by adding other spring vegetables,
such as fennel or parsnip. The lemon, chives, and crème fraîche contribute
to the brightness and freshness of the final dish. Cut off the ends of the asparagus spears,
then use a peeler to remove the skins

E Q U I P M E NT 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

Large stockpot ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley
Chinois 5 sprigs thyme
Large container or pot 2 lemon slices
Peeler
Large bowl FOR THE BLANCHED ASPARAGUS
Spider skimmer 8 spears asparagus, trimmed
2 plates or trays and peeled
Paper towels 4 tbsp kosher salt
Medium bowl
Whisk together the crème fraîche
Whisk FO R TH E C R È M E F R A Î C H E
and lemon juice, then season
Microplane 150 g store-bought crème fraîche with salt and pepper
Hibachi grill or other grill 1 lemon, zested and cut into wedges
Basting brush Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Mandoline Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Spoon
Offset tweezers FO R TH E G R I LLE D A S PA R AG U S
8 asparagus
I N G R E D I E NTS 1 lemon (reserved from the
FO R TH E C O U R T B O U I LLO N crème fraîche), zested and
6 quarts filtered water cut into wedges
1 leek, trimmed and cleaned 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
(white and green) Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
1 large carrot, peeled Season the curled asparagus with
lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper
1 yellow onion, peeled
Fennel, parsnip, celery, or other INGREDIENTS LIST
vegetable trim (optional) ( C O N T I N U E D O N PAG E 5 7 )

56
A S PA R AG U S ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 5 6 )

FO R TH E C U R LE D A S PA R AG U S MAKE THE BLANCHED ASPARAGUS spots. Once the asparagus have been
4 raw asparagus Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl, grilled, move the spears to a plate
1 lemon (reserved from the crème leaving several inches of space for or tray for seasoning. Squeeze the
fraîche), zested and cut into wedges displacement. Salt the boiling stock juice of 1 to 2 lemon wedges onto the
Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste with kosher salt, then blanch the asparagus, then use a basting brush
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste trimmed and peeled asparagus: to add a thin layer of olive oil. Season
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste Working in three batches, transfer with fleur de sel or kosher salt and
the asparagus to the boiling stock, lemon zest, to taste.
FO R S E RV I N G and keep the spears submerged for
Garlic flowers, shallot blossoms, at least 30 seconds and up to 2 min- M A K E TH E C U R LE D A S PA R AG U S
or any fresh herbs, such as chives utes, based on how large the aspara- In a large bowl, prepare an ice bath
Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste gus are. (The larger they are, the (you can reuse the bowl from the pre-
more time they’ll need.) After 30 sec- vious ice bath—just refresh the ice as
M E TH O D onds to 2 minutes, use a spider skim- needed). Set a mandoline to 3 milli-
M A K E TH E C O U R T B O U I LLO N mer to remove the asparagus spears meters, and shave the raw asparagus
In a large stockpot set over medium from the boiling stock, and immedi- lengthwise into very fine ribbons.
heat, bring 6 quarts of filtered water ately transfer the spears to the ice Submerge the asparagus ribbons in
to a simmer. Slice the trimmed leek, bath. Keep them submerged in the the ice bath until they curl, about 10
carrot, and onion in half lengthwise, ice bath for 30 seconds. After 30 sec- minutes. After 10 minutes, transfer
then roughly chop both halves. If onds, transfer the asparagus spears the curled asparagus to a paper towel
you’re using any additional vegetables, to a plate or tray lined with paper to drain. Season the curled asparagus
roughly chop them and add them to towels to drain. Discard the stock. with the juice of 1 to 2 lemon wedges,
the stockpot. Add the leek, carrot, olive oil, fleur de sel or kosher salt,
onion, garlic, and parsley to the stock- M A K E TH E C R È M E F R A Î C H E and freshly cracked black pepper.
pot, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add In a medium bowl, whisk together
the thyme, then simmer for 10 min- the crème fraîche and the juice of 2 To serve, spoon a bed of the crème
utes more. Add the lemon slices to the lemon wedges. Season with fleur de fraîche onto a plate. Alternate 2
stock, then raise the heat, bringing the sel or kosher salt and freshly cracked spears of Grilled Asparagus with 2
liquid to a boil. Once a boil has been black pepper, to taste. Using a micro- Blanched Asparagus in a row atop the
achieved, remove the pot from the plane, grate the zest of about ¼ of sauce. Use tweezers to arrange the
heat and strain the stock through a the lemon into the crème fraîche, Curled Asparagus ribbons on their
chinois into a large container or pot. and whisk to incorporate. edges, so that their shape contrasts
Discard the strained vegetables. Place with the rows of Grilled Asparagus.
the strained stock back into the origi- MAKE TH E G R I LLE D A S PAR AG U S Then use tweezers to decorate the
nal pot, and place that pot back on the Grill the blanched asparagus spears dish with garlic flowers, shallot
stove, lowering the heat to a simmer. over high heat for 1 minute, then flip blossoms, or any fresh herbs, such
and grill them for 1 minute more as chives. Drizzle with olive oil.
While the stock simmers, prepare the until they’re lightly charred in some
asparagus. Remove the fibrous ends
of the asparagus spears, then use a
peeler to carefully remove the skins.
Lay the spears down on a cutting
board, and gently remove the outer
layer, starting below the tip and peel-
ing toward the ends. Rotate the stems,
and repeat the peeling process until
the whole asparagus is clean.

57 
 “A S PA R AG U S I S

V E RY S PEC I A L

FO R M E A N D W H E R E

I G R E W U P. IT ' S

A V E RY S E A S O N A L

V EG E TA B LE ,

B UT IT I S A V E RY

D E LI C I O U S

V EG E TA B LE .”

CHEF CRENN

58
ROASTED CABBAGE WITH SAUERKRAUT,
PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS, AND
PARSLEY CREAM SAUCE (PAG E 6 6)

59 
 ENTRÉE
“When you cook, bring yourself to the cooking:
Bring your creativity, your culture. Bring memor y,
where you come from, things you’ve eaten throughout
your life, through your childhood, and now.”
CHEF CRENN

60
SEASONAL VEGETABLES
V E G E TA B L E PA R M E N T I E R I SERVES 4

W H E N C H E F C R E N N WA S A C H I LD, her family enjoyed Hachis

Parmentier (French beef and potato casserole) as a Sunday dinner. This
recipe is a vegetarian spin on the classic dish that she enjoys making
with her own daughters.
The vegetables in this dish can change seasonally, but you’ll want to
consistently include onion or leek for their aromatic qualities. As always,
be mindful of the cook times for each ingredient: In general, denser
vegetables—carrots, beets, winter squash—will need more time on the
stove than broccoli, peppers, and summer squash. The goal is for each
vegetable to have a toothsome texture that will contrast with the mashed
potatoes and melted cheese.

E Q U I P M E NT I N G R E D I E NTS FOR THE GLAZED VEGETABLES

Large stockpot FO R T H E V E G E TA B L E S TO C K 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Peeler 6 quarts filtered water 2 carrots or other root vegetables,
Medium pot 1 leek, trimmed and cleaned peeled and diced
Small saucepan (white and green) 1 yellow onion or leek, trimmed and
Spider skimmer 2 cloves garlic, peeled minced
Ricer or handheld potato masher ½ bunch parsley 4 cups summer diced squash and
Large bowl 1 large carrot, peeled and sliced zucchini
Whisk 1 yellow onion, sliced ⅔ cup Vegetable Stock
Pastry scraper (optional) 2 ribs of celery Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Tamis (optional) ½ bunch of thyme Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
3 medium pans 2 tbsp whole black peppercorns
Large pan 1 bay leaf FOR SERVING
Large gratin dish Butter (for greasing the cookware)
or 4 small ramekins FO R T H E M A S H E D P OTATO E S 200 g comté cheese, grated
Spoon (POMMES PU RÉ E) (or another semisoft cheese
Fork 1 kg Yukon Gold potatoes of your choice)
⅔ cup whole milk
100 g room-temperature
butter, cubed
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
Freshly cracked white or black
pepper, to taste

61 
 VEGETABLE
PARMENTIER

Come with me and look

into the aureate light
62
S E A S O N A L V E G E TA B L E S ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 6 1 )

M E TH O D M A K E T H E M A S H E D P OTATO E S MAKE THE GLAZE D

M A K E T H E V E G E TA B L E S TO C K Use a peeler to peel the potatoes, then V E G E TA B L E S
Up to 3 days in advance: Follow the roughly cut them into small chunks. In one medium pan set over medium
instructions in the Asparagus recipe Place the potatoes in a medium pot, heat, warm 1 tablespoon of olive oil.
on page 57 to create a vegetable stock. and cover them with at least 1 inch of Add the diced carrots or other root
For this preparation, Chef Crenn rec- cold water. Bring the water to a boil vegetables to the warm oil, and cook
ommends including celery and even over medium-high heat, then lower them until tender, about 10 minutes.
more aromatics, but your particular the heat to medium in order to main- In a second medium pan set over
mix of vegetables and herbs depends tain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until medium heat, warm 1 tbsp of olive oil.
on your preference as well as what is they’re soft and tender when tested Add the minced onion or leek to the
available to you. with a knife, about 15 to 20 minutes. warm oil, and cook it until it browns,
about 7 minutes. In a third medium
In a small saucepan, warm the milk pan set over medium heat, warm 1
over medium-low heat, but do not tbsp of olive oil. Add the diced sum-
bring the liquid to a boil. Using a spi- mer squash and zucchini to the warm
der skimmer, scoop the potatoes out oil, and cook them until they brown,
of the water and strain them, letting about 10 minutes.
all of the water drain out. Empty any
excess water from the pot. In a large pan set over low heat, com-
bine the cooked vegetables from the
Once the potatoes are fully drained, three medium pans. Add ⅔ cup of
Pass the potatoes through the ricer place them back in the pot. Vegetable Stock, and cook, stirring
into a large bowl, then add the butter
occasionally, until the liquid is almost
I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A R I C E R : Working entirely absorbed, about 5 minutes.
in batches, transfer the potatoes to After 5 minutes, season, with fleur de
the ricer. Pass them through the ricer sel or kosher salt and pepper, to taste.
into a large bowl, then add the butter.
Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C, or
I F YO U ’ R E U S I N G A H A N D H E LD preheat the broiler. Butter the gratin
P OTATO M A S H E R : Add the butter to dish or ramekins, then spoon a layer
the pot of potatoes, and mash the of vegetables into the bottom of the
ingredients with the potato masher. gratin dish or each ramekin. Spoon a
layer of Mashed Potatoes on top of
Combine and cook the vegetables in Gradually whisk the warm milk into the vegetables, then smooth out the
the vegetable stock the potato-butter mash along with the potatoes with a fork.
butter cubes. If the texture is too thick,
add warm water by the tablespoon To serve, cover the Mashed Potatoes
until your desired consistency is layer with comté cheese. Bake the
achieved. Season the potatoes with Vegetable Parmentier in the oven
fleur de sel or kosher salt and white or until the cheese is bubbling and
black pepper, to taste. For an optional lightly browned, about 20 minutes.
smoother texture: Use a pastry Alternatively, carefully and quickly
scraper to scrape the potato mixture, brown the cheese in the broiler.
roughly 1 cup at a time, through a
tamis into a large bowl. Keep the pota-
Spoon potatoes on top of the toes warm until you’re ready to serve.
vegetables in each ramekin

63 
64
ROASTED CABBAGE WITH SAUERKRAUT,
PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS,
AND PARSLEY CREAM SAUCE

T he taste we chase every

65 
summer will last until the winter
CABBAGE
R O A S T E D C A B B A G E W I T H S A U E R K R A U T, P I C K L E D M U S TA R D S E E D S ,

A N D PA R S L E Y C R E A M S AU C E I SERVES 4

CA B BAG E I S A B IT OV E R LO O K E D in the rarefied world of haute

cuisine, but as Chef Crenn says, “The cabbage will always be the queen.”
In addition to searing and roasting the cabbage at the center of this
dish, this recipe teaches you to honor the cabbage by preparing your own
sauerkraut, allowing the natural flavors of the cabbage to mature over
time during a fermentation process. The technique demonstrated here is
called lacto-fermentation, which allows the lactobacilli to ferment raw
vegetables, while salt discourages other micro-organisms from flourishing.
If you want, experiment with fermenting other vegetables by adding
2.5 percent of the vegetable’s weight in salt.

E Q U I P M E NT I N G R E D I E NTS FO R T H E P I C K L E D
Gloves FO R T H E SAU E R K R AU T M U S TA R D S E E D S
Kitchen scale 1 medium savoy cabbage 100 g yellow mustard seeds
Gram scale Kosher salt, divided, measured 30 g champagne vinegar or
2 large bowls in accordance with the amount rice vinegar
Tight-sealing ceramic or of cabbage, and extra to taste 30 g sherry vinegar
glass container 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 20 g granulated sugar
Glass or ceramic lids Lemon juice, to taste 3 g kosher salt
Large wide-bottom pan Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Spoon FO R T H E PA R S L E Y O I L
Tongs FO R T H E S E A R E D A N D C R È M E F R A Î C H E SAU C E
Roasting pan R OA S T E D CA B B AG E 2 tbsp fermented cabbage juice
Powerful blender 1 medium savoy cabbage or 500 g crème fraîche
Chinois or fine-mesh strainer other cabbage 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
Coffee filter Grapeseed oil 1 lemon, sliced into wedges
Large pot (for coating the cookware) Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
3 medium saucepans 2 cloves garlic, peeled Freshly cracked black pepper,
Whisk 1 bunch thyme to taste
Large sealable jar or container
Small bowl FO R T H E PA R S L E Y O I L
200 g grapeseed oil, divided
100 g flat-leaf parsley, cleaned
and shredded

66
CA B B AG E ( C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 6 6 )

M E TH O D then return the pan to the heat. Sear

M A K E T H E SAU E R K R AU T the cabbage, occasionally spooning
2 weeks before serving, ferment the oil from the bottom of the pan onto
cabbage: Put on gloves, slice the cab- the wedges to baste them as they
bage into quarters, and julienne each cook, for about 7 minutes. Add the
quarter as finely as possible. Use a garlic and thyme to the pan. Using
kitchen scale to weigh the shredded tongs, turn the cabbage wedges once
cabbage, then use a gram scale to a nice sear has been achieved. Add
Sear the cabbage, occasionally spooning weigh out 2.5 percent of the cabbage’s additional grapeseed oil as needed to
oil from the pan over the wedges weight in kosher salt (i.e., 2.5 grams of the pan, and continue to check the
salt for every 100 grams of cabbage). cabbage every 10 minutes, until all
Put the cabbage and salt in a large the edges of the wedges are browned.
bowl, and massage the shreds with Once the first batch of cabbage is fin-
gloved hands for 10 minutes. After 10 ished, transfer the wedges to a roast-
minutes, transfer the salted cabbage ing pan. Repeat this searing process
to a tight-sealing ceramic or glass with the remaining batches of cab-
container. Weight the cabbage down bage wedges.
inside the container with glass or
ceramic lids, then cover the container Once all of the seared cabbage is in
tightly. Store the sealed container in a the roasting pan, roast the wedges
cool, dark place (55°F to 65°F/13°C to in the oven, uncovered, until the
Pour the grapeseed oil into the canister
of a blender, then add the parsley 18°C). Check on the cabbage every 3 pieces are thoroughly cooked but
days to confirm that mold has not not mushy, 20 to 30 minutes. Smaller
contaminated the cabbage. If there wedges will cook more quickly, so
are any off colors or textures, discard check on the cabbage’s texture every
the sauerkraut and try again. You can 10 minutes or so.
store the sauerkraut in the refrigera-
tor in liquid for up to 3 months. M A K E T H E PA R S L E Y O I L
Pour 50 grams of grapeseed oil into
Once you’ve successfully made your the canister of a blender, then add all
sauerkraut and are ready to prepare of the parsley. Pour the remaining
the rest of the dish, make the Seared grapeseed oil on top of the parsley.
and Roasted Cabbage. Preheat the Start the blender on low speed, then
Simmer the fermented cabbage juice, oven to 325°F/163°C. Slice the cab- gradually bring the speed up to high
and whisk in the crème fraîche
bage in half, then slice each half again until the parsley breaks, about 5 min-
into 4 wedges. You can slice smaller utes. The parsley particles should
wedges if your cabbage is larger or if separate within the oil.
you’re serving this as a side dish.
Coat a large wide-bottom pan with a Line a chinois or fine-mesh strainer
layer of grapeseed oil. Warm the with a coffee filter, and set the chi-
grapeseed oil over medium-high heat nois or strainer above a large bowl.
until it shimmers. Slowly pour the Parsley Oil into the
coffee filter, and let the oil sit until all
Once the grapeseed oil is hot, remove the liquid has been strained.
the pan from the heat. Place a batch
Pour the Parsley Oil Crème Fraîche Sauce of cabbage wedges in the pan (be
around one side of the roasted cabbage careful to not overcrowd the pan),

67 
MAKE THE PICKLE D
M U S TA R D S E E D S
In a large pot set over medium heat,
cover the yellow mustard seeds with
cold water. Simmer for 5 minutes.
After 5 minutes, strain the mixture
through a fine-mesh strainer. Repeat
this blanching process with fresh
water until the mustard seeds have
softened and lost their bitterness, at
least 10 times.

In a medium saucepan set over

medium heat, whisk together the
champagne vinegar or rice vinegar,
sherry vinegar, sugar, and kosher salt.
Add the softened mustard seeds to
the pan, and bring the mixture to a
simmer, stirring occasionally, until
the liquid is absorbed by the mustard
seeds, about 15 minutes. After 15
minutes, transfer the mixture to a
large sealable jar or container, and
chill it in the refrigerator for at least
2 hours until cold. Pickled mustard
seeds will keep in the refrigerator for
up to 1 month.

Squeeze the liquid from 4 spoonfuls

of the sauerkraut into a small bowl,
and set it aside (you’ll need this
fermented cabbage juice to make
the Parsley Oil Crème Fraîche Sauce).
In a medium saucepan set over
medium heat, pour in the sauerkraut. mixture is hot. Add the sherry vinegar together. The oil should be speckled
Simmer until the sauerkraut becomes and the juice of 1 lemon wedge. throughout the sauce.
tender, stirring occasionally, about Season with fleur de sel or kosher salt
15 minutes. Keep the sauerkraut and black pepper, to taste. Once the To serve, place a piece of Seared and
warm over low heat while you pre- oil has been mixed, remove it from the Roasted Cabbage in the center of each
pare the other components. heat and let it sit until serving. plate. Add a large spoonful of the sau-
erkraut near one end of the roasted
M A K E T H E PA R S L E Y O I L Season the cooked sauerkraut with cabbage, and spoon 2 teaspoons of
C R È M E F R A Î C H E SAU C E sherry vinegar, lemon juice, fleur de Pickled Mustard Seeds on either side
In another medium saucepan set over sel or kosher salt, and black pepper. of the cabbage. Pour a half-circle
low heat, bring the fermented cabbage Add 2 tablespoons of Parsley Oil to (about 2 tablespoons) of the Parsley
juice to a low simmer. Whisk in the the Crème Fraîche Sauce, and whisk Oil Crème Fraîche Sauce around one
crème fraîche, and cook only until the quickly, but do not fully mix the two side of the roasted cabbage.

68
69 
CHEESE COURSE
“I’m inviting you to think differently,
perhaps, about food.”
CHEF CRENN

70
CHEESE COURSE
CHEESE SALAD I SERVES 4

PEO PLE H AV E B E E N C R A F TI N G C H E E S E for thousands of years, but

each cheese is the expression of a moment in culinary culture. With this
cheese course, Chef Crenn encourages you to savor the particularity of your
time and place.
This recipe demonstrates how to modernize the traditional finish to a good
French meal by aerating a semisoft cheese and decorating it with a decon-
structed green salad. Be sure to bring your own sensibility and environment
to this dish by exploring the cheeses made in your own region and finding the
Whisk the milk and the heavy cream, flavors that speak to you. Taste the greens at your local farmers’ market, and
then add the cheese, sugar, kosher trim them with all of the attention of a bonsai artist. The flavors of this dish
salt, and black pepper will vary with the seasons, but the techniques are usable year-round.

E Q U I P M E NT FO R TH E LE T TU C E P U N C H E S
Medium saucepan 1 head of 2 different lettuce varieties,
Whisk such as romaine, butter lettuce,
2 large spoons red oak, or green oak
Blender 1 head chicory or 1 cup frilly mustard
Large lidded container
Pastry bag FO R TH E V I N A I G R E T TE
Silpat (optional) ½ shallot, peeled and minced
Use a cookie cutter or scalloped Scalloped punch, cookie cutter, 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
punch to cut small pieces of lettuce or scissors ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Fine-mesh strainer 1 tbsp lemon juice
Small spray bottle Kosher salt, to taste
4 small bowls
Offset tweezers (optional) FO R S E RV I N G
Fleur de sel or kosher salt, to taste
I N G R E D I E NTS
FO R TH E C H E E S E M O U S S E M E TH O D
125 g whole milk M A K E TH E C H E E S E M O U S S E
62.5 g heavy cream In a medium saucepan set over
200 g semisoft cheese, such as feta, medium heat, bring the milk and the
chèvre, comté, or gruyère heavy cream to a simmer, whisking
Squeeze 3 tablespoons of the
Cheese Mousse into 4 small bowls 2.5 g granulated sugar occasionally. Once the pot is sim-
2.5 g fleur de sel or kosher salt mering, remove it from the heat and
2 g black pepper, freshly cracked whisk in the cheese, sugar, salt, and
black pepper to combine.

71 
 For the verdant bounty
Working in batches, use a large
spoon to scoop a portion of the
of the gatherer's harvest
mixture into a blender. Start on
low speed, and gradually add the
remaining mixture, puréeing it
in caring hands
until it’s smooth. Use the higher
speeds sparingly so you don’t
overheat the mixture.

Transfer the mixture to a large

lidded container, then cover and
refrigerate the mixture until it’s cool
enough that it sticks to the sides
of the container, about 1 to 2 hours.

After 1 to 2 hours, uncover the

container, and whisk the cheese
mixture until the texture is airy
and it becomes mousse-like. (Don’t
overbeat the cheese to the point
that liquid begins to seep out of the
mixture.) Once you have a Cheese
Mousse, transfer the mousse to a
pastry bag using a large spoon.
Refrigerate the mousse until it’s set,
about 1 hour.

M A K E TH E LE T TU C E P U N C H E S
Trim, wash, and dry the lettuces and
greens. On a Silpat or cutting board,
use a scalloped punch, cookie cutter,
or scissors to cut small pieces of
lettuce and greens into visually
pleasing shapes, then set the pieces
aside. Dry lettuces and greens can be
stored in a sealed container lined CHEESE SALAD

with damp paper towels in the refrig-

erator for up to 12 hours.

M A K E TH E V I N A I G R E T TE To serve, remove the Cheese Mousse next to (or in) the cheese in each
Let the shallot sit in the vinegar for from the refrigerator, and cut off the bowl. Each bite should offer an
5 minutes to macerate. Strain out tip of the pastry bag. Squeeze assortment of flavors. Use tweezers,
the shallot pieces with a fine-mesh approximately 3 tablespoons of the if desired, to anchor the lettuces and
strainer, and add the oil, lemon juice, Cheese Mousse in a spiral shape into greens in the cheese, creating
and salt to the vinaigrette. Transfer the centers of 4 small bowls. Spray three-dimensionality. Finish the dish
the vinaigrette to a small spray bottle, the pieces of lettuce and greens with with a sprinkle of fleur de sel or
and discard the shallot pieces. the Vinaigrette, then arrange them kosher salt, to taste.

72
73 
 “Food is language.
Food is a connector.
Food is a power
for change.”
CHEF CRENN

74
 CREDITS
I MAG E O F AN E AR LY ATE LI E R C R E N N
M E N U F RO M R E B E L C H E F
© 2020 by Dominique Crenn.
Used by permission of Penguin Press, an imprint of Penguin Publishing Group,
a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved

VAR I O U S Q U OTE S F RO M R E B E L C H E F
By Dominique Crenn and Emma Brockes. Courtesy Penguin Random House

75