OBSESSED WITH QUALITY YARN SINCE 1952

Design: Ditte Lerche

English translation: June Thomsen Feeling Good 1st edition - August 2022 © filcolana
#FilcolanaFeelingGood

The designer has taken inspiration from Nina Simone’s version of “Feeling Good” for this
harmonious and extremely comfortable sweater in textured knit. The feeling of freedom and
well-being is expressed through the spacious shape, and the exquisite mix of Peruvian, Saga,
and Tilia combined, creates the feeling of chunky, soft luxury.

SIZES MATERIALS
XS (S) M (L) XL Yarn from Filcolana
150 (150) 150 (200) 200 g Saga in col. 303
MEASUREMENTS (Sea Glass) and
Fits chest sizes: 82-88 (89-97) 98-105 (106-115) 400 (450) 500 (550) 600 g Peruvian in col. 333
116-125 cm (Sea Foam) and
Chest: 106 (110) 120 (130) 140 cm 125 (125) 125 (125) 150 g Tilia in col. 281 (Rime
Length: 64 (64) 67 (67) 70 cm Frost) and
Sleeve length: 43 (41) 41 (39) 39 cm 125 (125) 125 (125) 150 g Tilia in col. 340
(Ice Blue)
GAUGE
12.5 sts and 15 rows in pattern on 8 mm needles Use all 4 strings held together throughout work.
= 10 x 10 cm. Gauge is measured after washing.
6 mm and 8 mm circular needles, 80-100 cm.
Needle sizes are for guidance only. If you have more 6 mm and 8 mm double pointed needles (dpns) –
stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle. can be skipped if you are working the magic loop on
If you have fewer stitches on 10 cm, change to smaller long circular needles
needles. 
If you have the accurate stitch count horizontally but Stitch markers
not vertically it might help to change to needles in a Stitch holders or string
different material, e.g., change from metal to wood or
vice versa.
filcolana © 2022 filcolana.dk
 Technique
Backward loop cast on
Hold your working yarn over your right index finger,
bend the index finger towards you. This will create a
loop around your finger. Insert the tip of your right-
hand needle into the back of the new loop and release it
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS onto the needle. Repeat this till you have the required
M1R - Right slanted increase number of stitches.
From the back, lift the horizontal strand between the
two stitches with the left needle and knit through the
front loop (1 st increase).
M1L - Left slanted increase
From the front, lift the horizontal strand between
stitches with the left needle and knit through the back
loop (1 st increase).

Bobble stitch, when knitting flat

On the right side (6th row of the pattern): Work [k1,
yarn over, k1] in next st, turn work, purl the 3 sts, turn
work, slip 1st st knit-wise, k2tog, pass the slipped st
Workflow
over, tighten the yarn a bit and continue knitting.
Next row (wrong side, the 7th row of the pattern): The sweater is knitted top down with European
Purl to the st that ‘holds’ the bobble stitch, p2tog (see shoulder construction.
Special techniques), insert left needle below the ‘bar’ of
the purled st which is under the knitted together st on First, work the back yoke flat, then pick up sts along
right hand needle, gently lift this st up and onto the left the back shoulders and knit them one by one till joining
needle and purl it. them at the center of the front.
Bobble stitch, when knitting in the round When you have worked the front yoke, then join the
On the 6th round of the pattern: Knit bobble as when it pieces and continue, working the body in the round.
is worked flat.
Next round (the 7th pattern round): Knit to 1 st before The sweater is constructed with more sts on the front
the st that ‘holds’ the bobble stitch, twist work towards than the back.
yourself so you can see the wrong side of your, insert
right hand needle into the ‘bar’ of the st that is just Then, pick up sts along the armhole and work the
below the 1st st on left needle, knit this st, knit 1st and sleeves in the round, top down.
2nd sts on the left needle together.
Finally, pick up sts along the neckline and work the
neckband, which is later folded and sewn onto the
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES wrong side.
P2tog (Continental purl)
If the st that holds the bubble becomes too long or
loose you can prevent this by working the 2 purl sts
together as follows:
Hold the yarn in front of work (towards yourself),
insert right needle into the 1st st on left needle as if to
purl, with left index finger lead the yarn – clock-wise –
around the tip of the right needle. Hold the yarn a bit
tight so the loop does not slip off the needle tip. While
still holding the yarn a little tight, you push the needle
through the st, from left to right, still with the loop on
your needle point/tip.
If necessary, tighten the yarn a bit once the st is on the
right needle.

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 Pattern
Continue like this, with the pattern and the increases
on every right-side row. At the same time be careful
when starting a new pattern repeat that the patterns
opposite each other are aligned, i.e., bobble sts
adjacent to bobble sts. In the rib section, stockinette sts
BACK should be over stockinette sts from previous pattern.
With 8 mm needles cast on 24 sts, using all 4 strands
held together. Divide into sections like this: Continue like this until you have increased a total of 19
Cast on 4 sts, place marker, cast on 16 sts, place (20) 22 (24) 27 times in each side = 62 (64) 68 (72)
marker, cast on 4 sts = 24 sts in total. 78 sts in total.
Finish with the 11th (13th) 3rd (7th) 13th pattern row,
Now work the pattern, with 4 knitted sts in each side, which is a wrong side row.
slipping the markers from left to right side as you go
along. Turn work to right side and place a marker in the 1st
and last st on your needles. Keep these markers
1st row (WS): P4, knit to last 4 sts, p4. attached to the sts.
2nd row: K4, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4. You have now worked the increases for the shoulders.
Continue in pattern and work 25 (23) 25 (23) 25
3rd row: P4, knit to last 4 sts, p4. additional rows in pattern WITHOUT increases.
4th row: K4, knit to last 4 sts, k4. Finish with the 8th (8th) 14th (10th) 10th pattern row,
which is a right-side row.
5th row: Purl all sts.
Break yarn and let the sts rest on a stitch holder or
6th row: K4, M1L, *k2, bobble*, repeat from * to * string.
to last 6 sts, k2, M1L, k4.

7th row: Purl all sts as described in the Special abbrevi-

ations chapter, bobble stitches when worked flat.

8th row: K4, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4.

9th row: P4, knit to last 4 sts, p4.

10th row: K4, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4.

11th row: P4, knit to last 4 sts, p4.

12th row: K4, M1L, knit 2 (0) 0 (0) 2, work rib

(p2, k2) to marker, M1R, k4.

13th row: P4, knit 1 (0) 0 (0) 1, p 2 (1) 1 (1) 2, work

rib (k2, p2) to last 1 (3) 3 (3) 1 sts before marker, k1
(2) 2 (2) 1, p 0 (1) 1 (1) 0, p4.

14th row: K4 , M1L, purl 1 ( 0) 0 (0) 1, k 2 (1) 1

(1) 2, work rib (p2, k2) to last 1 (3) 3 (3) 1 sts before
marker, p 1 (2) 2 (2) 1, k 0 (1) 1 (1) 0, M1R, k4.

You have now worked an entire pattern and increased

7 sts in each side = 30 sts between markers.

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RIGHT SHOULDER Continue in pattern and with increases at the end of
Place work in front of you with the right side facing every rightside row, until you have increased 4 (6) 6 (6)
upwards; the sts on the stitch holder should be closest 6 times = 28 (32) 36 (38) 42 sts.
to you. The last increase is on the 12th (2nd) 2nd (2nd) 2nd
Starting at the marked st, with 8 mm needles and all pattern row.
4 yarn bases held together, pick up sts along the right Knit 13th (3rd) 3rd (3rd) 3rd pattern row.
side of the knitted sts to the cast on edge, like this: Do NOT break yarn but let the sts rest on a stitch
Pick up 2 sts, place a marker, pick up 20 (22) 26 (28) holder.
32 sts, place marker, pick up 2 sts, pick up last marker
in the cast on edge = 24 (26) 30 (32) 36 sts. LEFT SHOULDER
With 4 new yarn skeins/balls pick up sts along the left
1st row (WS): P2, knit to last 2 sts, p2. side and place markers the same way as on the right
shoulder, only this time starting at the cast on edge and
2nd row: Knit all sts. finishing at the marker.

3rd row: P2, knit to last 2 st, p2. Knit pattern like this:
1st-5th row: Work as right shoulder.
4th row: Knit all sts.
6th row (RS): Knit 3 (2) 2 (2) 4 sts, *bobble stitch,
5th row: Purl all sts. k2*, repeat from * to * to last 0 (0) 1 (0) 2 sts, knit 0
(0) 1 (2) 2 sts.
6th row: Knit 2 (2) 3 (2) 4 sts, *bobble st, k2*, repeat
from * to * to last 1 (0) 0 (0) 2 sts, k 1 (0) 0 (0) 2 sts. 7th-14th row: Work as right shoulder.

7th row: Purl all sts as described in the “Bobble stitch” Repeat rows 1-5 once more, last row is a wrong side
chapter under Special abbreviations. row.
Continue in pattern from the 6th pattern row, while
8th row: Knit all sts. increasing at the beginning of every right-side row like
this:
9th row: P2, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Next row (RS): K2, M1L, knit pattern to end of row.

10th row: Knit all sts. Continue in pattern and with increases at the beginning
of every right-side row until you have increased 4 (6) 6
11th row: P2, knit to last 2 sts, p2. (6) 6 times = 28 (32) 36 (38) 42 sts.
Last increase is on the 12th (2nd) 2nd (2nd) 2nd
12th row: K2, purl 1 (0) 0 (1) 1 st, knit 2 (0) 0 (2) 2 pattern row.
sts, *p2, k2*, repeat from * to * to last 3 (4) 4 (3) 3 Knit 13th (3rd) 3rd (3rd) 3rd pattern row, which is a
sts, purl 1 (2) 2 (1) 1 sts, k2. wrong side row. Break yarn.

13th row: P2, knit 1 (0) 0 (1) 1 st, purl 2 (0) 0 (2) 2 Join fronts
sts, *k2, p2*, repeat from * to * to last 3 (0) 0 (3) 3 Slip the resting sts of the right shoulder back on the
sts, knit 1 (0) 0 (1) 1 st, purl 2 (0) 0 (2) 2 sts. needles and work the 14th (4th) 4th (4th) 4th pattern
row and cast on 12 (10) 10 (12) 12 new sts at the end
14th row: Knit as 12th row. of the row using backward loop cast on technique, work
the left shoulder sts onto the needles.
Repeat rows 1-5 once more. The fronts are now joined, and you have 68 (74) 82
(88) 96 sts on your needles.
Continue in pattern from the 6th pattern row while
increasing on every right-side row like this: Continue in pattern from 1st (5th) 5th (5th) 5th
Next row (RS): Work pattern as indicated to the last pattern row, on rightside rows start pattern according
2 sts, M1R, k2. to right shoulder and finish according to left shoulder,
Work the new sts in pattern as you go along. the opposite order on the wrong side rows.

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Continue like this until you have worked the same BODY
number of rows from the picked up sts on the shoul- Only sizes XS
ders, as on the back, counted from the 1st pattern row In continuation of the front sts place a start marker
from the neck. on right needle, cast on 1 st using the backward loop
cast on technique, slip the back sts onto left side of the
Finish with the 8th (8th) 14th (10th) 10th pattern row, circular needles and purl these, cast on 1 new st, place
which is a rightside row. a side marker and purl the front sts = 68 sts on the front
and 64 sts on the back = 132 sts in total.
Do not turn work.
Continue in pattern as described below, starting at
10th pattern round, knit rounds 10-14:
1st round: Purl all sts.
2nd round: Knit all sts.
3rd round: Purl all sts.
4th and 5th round: Knit all sts.
6th round: *k2, bobble st*, repeat from * to * to end.
7th round: Knit all sts, but at the bobble stitches work
increase and the sts together as described in the Special
abbreviations chapter “Bobble stitch, when worked in
the round”.
8th round: Knit all sts.
9th round: Purl all sts.
10th round: Knit all sts.
11st round: Purl all sts.
12th-14th round: *p2, k2*, repeat from * to * over
all sts.

Repeat rounds 1-14 twice more and work rounds 1-3

once more, on last round work a M1L on the middle of
the back and also on the front = 69 sts on the front and
65 sts on the back.

Only size S
Slip the back sts onto left needle and purl these, place a
side marker, and purl the front sts, place a start marker
= 74 sts on the front and 64 sts on the back = 138 sts
in total.

Next round: Knit to 1 st before the side marker, M1L,

knit to 1 st before the start marker, M1L = 140 sts.
Continue in pattern as described below, starting with
11th pattern round, and work 11th-14th pattern
round.
Note that the stitch count is regulated twice in each
pattern repeat.
1st round: Purl all sts.
2nd round: K1, k2tog, knit to side marker, k1, k2tog,
knit remaining sts = 138 sts.
3rd round: Purl all sts.
4th and 5th round: Knit all sts.

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6th round: *k2, bobble st*, repeat from * to * over all 10th round: Knit to 3 sts before the side marker,
sts. k2tog, knit to 3 sts before the start marker, k2tog, k1 =
7th round: Knit all sts, but at the bobble sts work an 148 sts.
increase and knit the sts together as described in the 11th round: Purl all sts.
Special abbreviations chapter under “Bobble stitch, 12th-14th round: K1, *p2, k2*, repeat from * to *
when worked in the round”, at the side markers knit to last st, k1.
like this:
Knit to 1 st before marker, slip the st onto right needle Repeat rounds 1-14 once more and rounds 1-11 one
without knitting the st, remove marker, slip the st back more time = 81 sts on the front and 67 sts on the back.
onto the left needle, twist work a bit towards yourself
so you can see the wrong side of your work, insert right
needle into the ‘bar’ of the st below the 1st st on left Only sizes (L) and XL
needle, knit this st, place marker again and work 1st Cast on 1 new st with the make 1 towards increase, in
and 2nd st on left needle together. continuation of the front sts, slip the back sts onto the
8th round: Knit all sts. left needle and purl these, cast on 1 new st, place a side
9th round: Purl all sts. marker and purl the front sts, place a start marker =
10th round: K1, M1L, knit to side marker, k1, M1L, (88) 96 sts on the front and (74) 80 sts on the back =
knit remaining sts = 140 sts. (162) 176 sts in total.
11th round: Purl all sts.
12th-14th round: *p2, k2*, repeat from * to * over Continue in pattern as described below. Note that the
all sts. stitch count is regulated twice in each pattern repeat.
Start with 12th round and work the 12th-14th rounds.
Repeat rounds 1-14 twice more and work rounds 1-3 1st round: Purl all sts.
once more, on last round work a M1L on the middle of 2nd round: Knit to 3 sts before the side marker,
the back and the front respectively = 75 sts on the front k2tog, k1, knit to 3 sts before the start marker, k2tog,
and 65 sts on the back. k1 = (160) 174 sts.
3rd round: Purl all sts.
4th and 5th round: Knit all sts.
Only size M 6th round: *k2, bobble st*, repeat from * to * over all
Slip the back sts onto left needle and purl these, place a sts.
side marker, and purl the front sts, place a start marker 7th round: Knit all sts but at the bobble sts work
= 84 sts on the front and 68 sts on the back = 150 sts increase and sts together as described in the Special
in total. abbreviations chapter under “Bobble stitch, when
worked in the round”.
Knit 1 round. 8th round: Knit all sts.
Continue in pattern as described below, starting with 9th round: Purl all sts.
3rd pattern round, and work 3rd-14th pattern round. 10th round: Knit to 1 st before the side marker, M1L,
Note that the stitch count is regulated twice in each knit to 1 st before the start marker, M1L, k1 = (162)
pattern repeat. 176 sts.
1st round: Purl all sts. 11th round: Purl all sts.
2nd round: Knit to 1 st before the side marker, M1L, 12th-14th round: *p2, k2*, repeat from * to * over
knit to 1 st before the start marker, M1L, k1 = 150 sts. all sts.
3rd round: Purl all sts.
4th and 5th round: Knit all sts. Now, repeat rounds 1-14 once more and work rounds
6th round: *k2, bobble st*, repeat from * to * over all 1-11 one more time, on last round work a M1L on the
sts. middle of the back and the front respectively = (89) 97
7th round: Knit all sts but at the bobble sts work sts on the front and (75) 81 sts on the back.
increase and sts together as described in the Special ab-
breviations chapter under “Bobble stitch, when worked
in the round”.
8th round: Knit all sts.
9th round: Purl all sts.

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All sizes NECKBAND
Knit 1 round. With 6 mm circular needles and all 4 strands held
together, and starting at the back left shoulder, pick
RIBBING BACK up 66 (70) 70 (70) 70 sts from the right side of the
Change to 6 mm circular needles. neckline.

Work the ribbing edge flat, back and front separately, Work 16 rounds of rib (k1, p1).
like this:
1st row (RS): Slip 1 st knit-wise, k4, work rib (p1, k1) Bind off loosely as sts indicate.
to 6 sts before side marker, p1, k4, p1. Turn work and
let the remaining sts rest. Fold the rib onto the wrong side and sew the cast-off
edge onto the wrong side with loose overcasting sts.
2nd row: Slip 1 st knit-wise, p4, work rib (k1, p1) to
the last 6 sts, k1, p5. SLEEVES
With 8 mm circular needles, and starting at the bottom
Repeat these 2 rows until ribbing measures 8 cm, finish of the armhole, pick up 62 (62) 66 (66) 66 sts from
with a wrong side row. the right side of the sleeve, place a start marker and join
round.
Next row (RS): Bind off the first 4 sts, *work a yarn
over, p1, insert left needle into the yarn over and the Now work pattern and decreases as described below,
2nd st on right hand needle at the same time and pass please note the pattern does not fit completely to the
both over the 1st st, k1, pass the 2nd st on right needle number of sts during the decreases.
over the 1st st*, repeat from * to * to last 4 sts, bind off
these sts knit-wise. 1st round: Purl all sts.
2nd round: k2tog, Knit all sts.
RIBBING FRONT 3rd round: Purl all sts.
Join yarn to the right side of the resting sts and work 4th and 5th round: Knit all sts.
the ribbing edge as the back ribbing. 6th round: *k2, bobble st*, repeat from * to * to end.
7th round: Knit all sts but at the bobbles work increase
and sts together as described in the Special abbrevia-
tions chapter under “Bobble stitch, when worked in the
round”.
8th round: Knit to last 2 sts, slip 1 st knit-wise, k1,
pass the slipped st over.
9th round: Purl all sts.
10th round: Knit all sts.
11th round: Purl all sts.
12th-14th round: Work *p2, k2*, repeat from * to *
over all sts.

Note: Adjust pattern while increasing, bobbles and the

k2, p2 ribbing must align vertically, as on body.

Only size XS
Repeat rounds 1-14 three times more, WITHOUT
decreases = 60 sts.

Only size S
Repeat rounds 1-14 twice more, only WITHOUT
decreases = 60 sts.
Repeat rounds 1-11 once more, only WITHOUT
decreases.

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Only size M FINISHING
Repeat rounds 1-14 twice more = 60 sts. Weave in all loose ends.
Repeat rounds 1-11 once more, only WITHOUT
decreases. Wash the sweater according to the washing instruc-
tions on the labels, lay it flat to dry on a towel.
Only sizes L and XL
Repeat rounds 1-14 twice more = 60 masker.
Repeat rounds 1-3 once more, only WITHOUT de-
creases.

All sizes
Knit 1 round.

Next round (decrease round): *slip 2 sts as if to knit

them together, k1, pass the slipped sts over, p2tog*,
repeat from * to * over all sts = 24 sts.

Change to 6 mm needles.

Work rib (k1, p1) over 24 rounds.

Next round: Bind off as stitches indicates.

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