11/12/22, 5:54 PM Formulation of Nail Lacquers - Cosmetic Formulation

FORMULATION OF NAIL LACQUERS

The formation of an efficient nail polish may be based on the selection of a proper and an essential ingredient. T
f a good variety of nail polish could be as follows:

.N.      Ingredients Example

         

Film forming agents:    Nitro cellulose, ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymers

         

Resinous substances:     Aryl sulphonamide-formaldehyde

         

Dissolving solvent :  Ether, ethyl acetate, amyl acetate, butyl acetate

         

Dissolving solvent/co-solvent: Ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol

         

Plasticizing agents:        d-butyl phthalate, n-butyl stearate

         

Coloring agent:   5% titanium dioxide (TiQ2)

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.          Film Forming Agents:

The selection of a film forming agent is an important step in the formation of a relevant type of nail lacquer.
ubstance is nitrocellulose, due to the following properties.

The films formed using nitrocellulose pigment stay flexible for a sufficient period of time.
                            

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When compared to other film forming agents it is quite hard, tough and has good abrasion resistance a
                            

Other Film Forming Substances: Several grades of nitrocellulose are available with varying viscosities but onl
reparation of nail polishes. The degree of polymerization determines the viscosity which is necessary in ord
onsistency.

Two types of grades of nitrocellulose are readily used for nail polish preparation. They may be 'RS' and ‘SS’ ty
rade with viscosity range 0.25 to0.5 cps. When nitrocellulose is used alone it produces a poor gloss and hence in

.          Resinous Substances:

Resins enhance the glossy nature of the nail polish and also impart adhesive property.

                              Natural resins such as benzoin, shellac, damar, sandarac and ester gums were used initially but have b
rovide good gloss, better adhesion and also increased water resistance capacity.

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Acrylic esters are compatible with nitrocellulose and they provide excellent gloss, adhesion, durability
                            

.           Solvent System:

The solvents normally used for preparation of nail polishes may be volatile organic liquids that can dissolve all t
nd uniform preparation. The solvent should be volatile enough in order to leave a continuous, impermeable an
ot be too rapid. The selection of a solvent plays an important role in order to provide a balanced rate of evaporat

Generally a mixture of solvents is preferred rather than a single solvent. The solvents used for the formation of na

a)             Low Boiling Solvents: They include the solvents having boiling point below 100°C. They take more time
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Isopropyl alcohol 80°c 

                   
Isopropyl acetate 92°c 

b)           Medium Boiling Solvents: these are solvents that have a boiling point ranging between 100°C to 150°C
s with their boiling point are as follows:

Solvent       Boiling point

Amyl formate 110°c

Butyl alcohol  113°c

Diethyl carbonate    126°c

Ethylene glycol Monoethyl ether 135°c

Ethyl lactate   135°c

Butyl propionate     145°c

c)           High Boiling Solvents: Liquids with boiling points more than 150°C are r egarded as high boiling solvents
s follows:

olvent Boiling point

Cyclohexanone        154°c

Methyl Cyclohexanone     160°c

Diacetone alcohol    164°c

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The viscosity of a nail lacquer is also influenced by the boiling point of the solvent. Lower the boiling point of th
he resultant null lacquer and hence better flow property. The rate of evaporation of solvents depends on many fa
vaporation, molecular weight, degree of association etc, The solvent, with high boiling points generally provid
olvent.

.            Diluting Solvents/ Co-solvents:

They are not the actual solvents for the dissolution of  nitrocellulose but are the co-solvents which increase th
arious reasons for the addition of diluents are to:

Maintain the viscosity of the lacquer to form a stable film.

                            

Increase the solubility of the incorporated resins, thus working as a co-solvent.

                            

Abate the effect of freshly applied polish or a recently applied lacquer.

                            

Reduce overall cost of the product since the solvents used might he costly.
                            

                              The most commonly used diluents are alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol etc., they may
sters. Example: Ethyl alcohol with ethyl acetate etc,.

The quantity of diluent used may also influence the formation of a good film. The limit for use of diluent may he
ilution ratio. The dilution may he defined as the maximum ratio of the diluent to the solvent (diluents/solvent
olution without causing precipitation of nitrocellulose pigment.

Thus, selection of a proper combination of diluent and the solvent system is necessary. The combination should
aster evaporation rate than the solvent system which would prevent the precipitation of nitrocellulose due
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to re
lear, smooth and continuous film may be formed rather than a rough and cloudy film. The other examples
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a)          Solvent Plasticizers

b)                      Non-solvent Plasticizers

a)                    Solvent Plasticizers:  Solvent plasticizers, besides imparting flexibility to the nail polish,  may also
itrocellulose. Many of them are the high molecular weight esters that have low volatility and relatively hig
icinoleate.

b)          Non-solvent plasticizer: These are not compatible with nitrocellulose and hence can’t be used alone. They
lasticizer.

The ideal properties for the choice of a good plasticizer could be as follows:
                            

It should be compatible with other ingredients of the preparation.

                            

It should be able to impart flexibility and enhance the glossiness and adhesive property of the nail poli
                            

It should not evaporate quickly.

                            

It should not affect the stability of the preparation.

                            

It should not affect colour of the product.

                            

It should be non-irritating and non-toxic to the skin.

                            

It should be odourless and colourless.

                            

It should not cause any change in viscosity of the preparation.

                            

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It should also be able to opacify the nail lacquer so that the most delicate shade may be able to cover th
                            

More than 10 basic colours are required to produce large variety of sheds used in polishes.
                            

All the colours must conform to the terms and conditions of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act.
                            

The coloured substances are available as colouring agents and are incorporated with the pigments and
                            

They are mostly available in the form of dispersion. The usual concentration is between 3 to 5%. Exam
                            

s incorporated along with lakes to produce pastel shades. Iron oxides are used to produce brown or tan shades. T
roduce brilliant brown colours.

.          Nacreous/ Pearlescent Substances:

They are used in order to produce an iridescent or a nacreous appearance. They have high refractive index and h
hen. The can be obtained either from nun-al or synthetic origin.

a)          Natural Pigment: The example for the substance from natural origin is guanine crystals. Chemically they
re obtained from the skin and the scales of fish. They are marketed mostly in the form of suspensions or pastes.

b)           Synthetic Pigments: Synthetic pigments can be obtained from the coating of bismuth oxychloride or titan
mica. They are less expensive than natural pigments.

. Miscellaneous Agent:

a)                      Suspending Agents: Suspending agents such as Bentone - 27 and Bentone-34 are most commonly u
ettling of the pearlescent pigments, thus avoiding sedimentation. The concentration of these substances varies be

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Diethyl glycol monomethyl ether (solvent)    2 g

Ethyl alcohol (diluents)     14 g

erfume oil    6 g

Color    0.6 g

Formula-2   Quantity for 100 g

Nitrocellulose (film former)        10 g

entolite MHP (resin)        10 g

Dibutyl phthalate (plasticizer)    3 g

Ethyl alcohol (diluents)     6 g

         
Ethyl acetate  (solvent)     20 g
         
Butyl acetate  (solvent)     15 g

Toluene  (solvent)    36 g

Formula-3   Quantity for 100 g

Nitrocellulose (film former)        4 g

Dibutyl phthalate (plasticizer)    4 g

olypropyl methacrylate (resin) 18.6 g

Ethyl alcohol (diluents)     25.6 g

Butyl acetate  (solvent)      23.9 g

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nitially, the tank is charged with the diluent and nitrocellulose (suitably wetted the diluent) is added to it.

The plasticizer and the resin are added next and the mixing process continues.

The mixing process is carried out till sufficiently uniform solution is formed. The clear lacquer is then subjected
o remove any particles.

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