This document discusses key aspects of formulating cosmetic products including:
1. Tracking raw materials used including name, code, percentage in formula, batch size, amounts added, and observations during production.
2. Common types of ingredients used in cosmetics like silicones, polymers, and natural ingredients.
3. Key considerations for creating stable emulsions including calculating the required HLB of oil phases and surfactants, and using emulsifiers to overcome tension between phases.
This document discusses key aspects of formulating cosmetic products including:
1. Tracking raw materials used including name, code, percentage in formula, batch size, amounts added, and observations during production.
2. Common types of ingredients used in cosmetics like silicones, polymers, and natural ingredients.
3. Key considerations for creating stable emulsions including calculating the required HLB of oil phases and surfactants, and using emulsifiers to overcome tension between phases.
This document discusses key aspects of formulating cosmetic products including:
1. Tracking raw materials used including name, code, percentage in formula, batch size, amounts added, and observations during production.
2. Common types of ingredients used in cosmetics like silicones, polymers, and natural ingredients.
3. Key considerations for creating stable emulsions including calculating the required HLB of oil phases and surfactants, and using emulsifiers to overcome tension between phases.
Raw material names (trade name or INCI name when possible)
Raw material tracking code / lot number
Percent required for the formula Batch size and amount of raw materials required Amount of raw materials actually added Time ingredients are added Temperature of addition Observation of what happens to the batch while youre making it
Silicones For silicone containing materials, terms like Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone and amodimethicone are used. Whenever you see some form of these words in a chemical name, you know there is some silicone in it. PEG is Polyethylene Glycol. PPG is Polypropylene Glycol, etc. Then a number is included to refer to the moles of ethoxylation in the polymer. Common Names When they first came up with the INCI (originally called the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) in 1973, many cosmetic ingredients already had names. These common names were incorporated into the dictionary even though they didnt follow any specific naming rules. Therefore, we use Glycerin instead of the more accurate Glycerol and Menthol instead of (1R, 2S, 5R)-2-isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanol. Common names are also used for various natural ingredients like Lanolin and Beeswax.
1. The function raw materials 2. The performance effect of raw materials 3. The formula effect of raw materials
The first thing to know about cosmetic ingredients is the ingredient list. In the United States, every personal care and cosmetic product is supposed to have their ingredients listed. In the business, we called it the LOI (list of ingredients). Any ingredient above 1% is required to be listed in order of concentration (by weight). At 1% or below, the ingredients can be listed in any order. Typically, preservatives and dyes are listed at the end. In a future post, well show how this labeling requirement can help you formulate new products. Calculation of required HLB for an oil phase mixture The oil phase is 10% of the total formulation and consists of: 4% Shea butter, 40% of the oil phase. Reqd HLB of 8. 3% Jojoba oil, 30% of the oil phase. Reqd HLB of 6.5. 3% Sunflower seed oil, 30% of the oil phase. Reqd HLB of 7. Total required HLB: Shea butter contribution 0.4 x 8 = 3.20 Jojoba oil contribution 0.3 x 6.5 = 1.95 Sunflower oil contribution 0.3 x 7 = 2.10 Total Reqd HLB = 7.25 You can now select emulsifiers to match the required HLB of the oil phase and create an emulsion. A blend of high and low HLB surfactants is often used to achieve the desired value in part because of demonstrated effectiveness and efficiencies in packing at the interface. The HLB for the surfactant blend is calculated in same manner as the required HDetermining the HLB of a surfactant A typical nonionic emulsifier (e.g. Laureth-4) contains an ethylene oxide groups or polyhydric alcohol hydrophilic portions with a fatty alcohol hydrophobic portion. The HLB for a nonionic surfactant can be calculated as follows: HLB = Weight % Hydrophile/5 Example 1: HLB calculation for Laureth-4 Molecular weight of ethoxylate portion = 176 Molecular weight of lauryl alcohol = 186 Wt. % Hydrophile = (176/(176+186)) x 100 = 48.6% HLB = 48.6/5 = 9.7 Based on the calculation, surfactants with high HLB values will be more water soluble and those with low HLB values are more oil soluble. Division by 5 just allows for a compact, easy to use scale. The calculation is simple, but you wont usually have to figure it out since most surfactant HLB values are readily available through literature references and surfactant suppliers. LB for a blend. Calculating HLB of oil phase Each lipophilic ingredient in the oil phase has its own required HLB. These required HLB values are determined experimentally, however a method utilizing solubility parameters has been proposed by Vaughan and Rice. 2 Required HLB values for some common oil phase ingredients are available to the formulator in literature. The Reqd HLB values are approximate and can vary by about 1 unit. It is also important to keep in mind that cosmetic emulsions often have complex oil phases with several components. The required HLB of an oil phase mixture can be calculated by first calculating the percent of the oil phase each ingredient contributes. This percentage is then multiplied by the required HLB for each of those ingredients and the results are summed. Determining the HLB of a surfactant A typical nonionic emulsifier (e.g. Laureth-4) contains an ethylene oxide groups or polyhydric alcohol hydrophilic portions with a fatty alcohol hydrophobic portion. The HLB for a nonionic surfactant can be calculated as follows: HLB = Weight % Hydrophile/5 Cosmetic Emulsions Emulsions are one of the most common forms of cosmetic products. You find them in skin lotions, make-up, and even hair products. By definition an emulsion is a dispersion of two or more immiscible materials, where one phase, also know as the internal phase, is dispersed in the continuous or external phase. Cosmetic emulsions are classified as oil in water (O/W), water in oil (W/O) and water in silicone (W/Si). Multiple emulsions such as oil in water in oil (W/O/W) are also possible. Oil in water emulsions are the most common due to preferable cost and light skin feel. In order to create an oil in water emulsion (one that remains stable for a long enough time), work must be done to overcome the interfacial tension between the two phases. This can be achieved by mixing; however mixing even at very high rates is not enough to provide long term stability. An emulsifier or combination of emulsifiers is needed to stabilize droplets of the dispersed phase. For example, simple oil in vinegar salad dressings will separate rapidly without the use of an emulsifier like mustard. * Thickeners to modify the viscosity of a formula * Formula Stabilizer to help keep emulsions stable * Conditioning agents to improve the surfaces of hair and skin * Opacifying agents to make formulas look more luxurious * Preservative to prevent microbial growth * Occlusive agents to help moisturize skin * Styling agents to hold hair styles in place * Conditioning agents to improve the surfaces of hair and skin * Opacifying agents to make formulas look more luxurious * Shine agents to increase hair shine and give gloss to skin * Defoaming agents to reduce foam in cleansing formulas * Occlusive agents to help moisturize skin * Slip agents to help skin formulas spread more easily * Hair detangling agents to make hair easier to comb Fatty acids are the basis for many of the surfactants used in cosmetic products Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Behenic Acid the most common emulsions are ones in which oil is dispersed in water. To create emulsions, typically a surfactant is also used. Emulsions are delivery systems for beneficial cosmetic ingredients. These ingredients are often incompatible with water and have undesirable aesthetic characteristics by themselves. The ingredients are mixed with water to create creams or lotions. Detergents for cleansing * Wetting agents for helping formulas spread more easily * Foaming agents to produce consumer friendly suds * Emulsifiers to create stable mixtures of oil and water * Conditioning agents to improve the surfaces of hair and skin * Solubilizers to help mix fragrances into water-based formulas * Preservatives to keep cosmetics microbe-free * Special Effects to improve the look of certain formulas Surfactant is a shorter way to say surface active agent. These are molecules that have the property of reducing surface tension, thereby allowing oil and water to form stable (temporarily) mixtures. Examples Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Polysorbate 80
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