HLB

Raw material names (trade name or INCI name when possible)
Raw material tracking code / lot number

Percent required for the formula
Batch size and amount of raw materials required
Amount of raw materials actually added
Time ingredients are added
Temperature of addition
Observation of what happens to the batch while youre making it

Silicones
For silicone containing materials, terms like Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone and
amodimethicone are used. Whenever you see some form of these words in a chemical
name, you know there is some silicone in it.
PEG is Polyethylene Glycol. PPG is Polypropylene Glycol, etc. Then a number is included to
refer to the moles of ethoxylation in the polymer.
Common Names
When they first came up with the INCI (originally called the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary) in 1973, many cosmetic ingredients already had names. These common
names were incorporated into the dictionary even though they didnt follow any specific
naming rules. Therefore, we use Glycerin instead of the more accurate Glycerol and
Menthol instead of (1R, 2S, 5R)-2-isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanol. Common names are
also used for various natural ingredients like Lanolin and Beeswax.

1. The function raw materials
2. The performance effect of raw materials
3. The formula effect of raw materials

The first thing to know about cosmetic ingredients is the ingredient list. In the United States,
every personal care and cosmetic product is supposed to have their ingredients listed. In the
business, we called it the LOI (list of ingredients). Any ingredient above 1% is required to be
listed in order of concentration (by weight). At 1% or below, the ingredients can be listed in any
order. Typically, preservatives and dyes are listed at the end. In a future post, well show how
this labeling requirement can help you formulate new products.
Calculation of required HLB for an oil phase mixture
The oil phase is 10% of the total formulation and consists of:
4% Shea butter, 40% of the oil phase. Reqd HLB of 8.
3% Jojoba oil, 30% of the oil phase. Reqd HLB of 6.5.
3% Sunflower seed oil, 30% of the oil phase. Reqd HLB of 7.
Total required HLB:
Shea butter contribution 0.4 x 8 = 3.20
Jojoba oil contribution 0.3 x 6.5 = 1.95
Sunflower oil contribution 0.3 x 7 = 2.10
Total Reqd HLB = 7.25
You can now select emulsifiers to match the required HLB of the oil
phase and create an emulsion. A blend of high and low HLB
surfactants is often used to achieve the desired value in part
because of demonstrated effectiveness and efficiencies in packing
at the interface. The HLB for the surfactant blend is calculated in
same manner as the required HDetermining the HLB of a surfactant
A typical nonionic emulsifier (e.g. Laureth-4) contains an ethylene oxide groups or
polyhydric alcohol hydrophilic portions with a fatty alcohol hydrophobic portion. The
HLB for a nonionic surfactant can be calculated as follows:
HLB = Weight % Hydrophile/5
Example 1: HLB calculation for Laureth-4
Molecular weight of ethoxylate portion = 176
Molecular weight of lauryl alcohol = 186
Wt. % Hydrophile = (176/(176+186)) x 100 = 48.6%
HLB = 48.6/5 = 9.7
Based on the calculation, surfactants with high HLB values will be more water soluble
and those with low HLB values are more oil soluble. Division by 5 just allows for a
compact, easy to use scale. The calculation is simple, but you wont usually have to
figure it out since most surfactant HLB values are readily available through literature
references and surfactant suppliers.
LB for a blend.
Calculating HLB of oil phase
Each lipophilic ingredient in the oil phase has its own required HLB. These required
HLB values are determined experimentally, however a method utilizing solubility
parameters has been proposed by Vaughan and Rice.
2
Required HLB values for some
common oil phase ingredients are available to the formulator in literature. The Reqd
HLB values are approximate and can vary by about 1 unit. It is also important to keep
in mind that cosmetic emulsions often have complex oil phases with several
components. The required HLB of an oil phase mixture can be calculated by first
calculating the percent of the oil phase each ingredient contributes. This percentage is
then multiplied by the required HLB for each of those ingredients and the results are
summed.
Determining the HLB of a surfactant
A typical nonionic emulsifier (e.g. Laureth-4) contains an ethylene oxide groups or
polyhydric alcohol hydrophilic portions with a fatty alcohol hydrophobic portion. The
HLB for a nonionic surfactant can be calculated as follows:
HLB = Weight % Hydrophile/5
Cosmetic Emulsions
Emulsions are one of the most common forms of cosmetic products. You find them in
skin lotions, make-up, and even hair products. By definition an emulsion is a dispersion
of two or more immiscible materials, where one phase, also know as the internal phase,
is dispersed in the continuous or external phase. Cosmetic emulsions are classified as oil
in water (O/W), water in oil (W/O) and water in silicone (W/Si). Multiple emulsions
such as oil in water in oil (W/O/W) are also possible. Oil in water emulsions are the
most common due to preferable cost and light skin feel.
In order to create an oil in water emulsion (one that remains stable for a long enough
time), work must be done to overcome the interfacial tension between the two phases.
This can be achieved by mixing; however mixing even at very high rates is not enough to
provide long term stability. An emulsifier or combination of emulsifiers is needed to
stabilize droplets of the dispersed phase. For example, simple oil in vinegar salad
dressings will separate rapidly without the use of an emulsifier like mustard.
* Thickeners to modify the viscosity of a formula
* Formula Stabilizer to help keep emulsions stable
* Conditioning agents to improve the surfaces of hair and skin
* Opacifying agents to make formulas look more luxurious
* Preservative to prevent microbial growth
* Occlusive agents to help moisturize skin
* Styling agents to hold hair styles in place
* Opacifying agents to make formulas look more luxurious
* Shine agents to increase hair shine and give gloss to skin
* Defoaming agents to reduce foam in cleansing formulas
* Occlusive agents to help moisturize skin
* Slip agents to help skin formulas spread more easily
* Hair detangling agents to make hair easier to comb
Fatty acids are the basis for many of the surfactants used in cosmetic products
Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Behenic Acid
the most common emulsions are ones in which oil is dispersed in water. To create emulsions,
typically a surfactant is also used. Emulsions are delivery systems for beneficial cosmetic
ingredients. These ingredients are often incompatible with water and have undesirable aesthetic
characteristics by themselves. The ingredients are mixed with water to create creams or lotions.
Detergents for cleansing
* Wetting agents for helping formulas spread more easily
* Foaming agents to produce consumer friendly suds
* Emulsifiers to create stable mixtures of oil and water
* Solubilizers to help mix fragrances into water-based formulas
* Preservatives to keep cosmetics microbe-free
* Special Effects to improve the look of certain formulas
Surfactant is a shorter way to say surface active agent. These are molecules that have
the property of reducing surface tension, thereby allowing oil and water to form stable
(temporarily) mixtures.
Examples Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate,
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Polysorbate 80

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Raw material names (trade name or INCI name when possible)

Raw material tracking code / lot number

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