Raw Material Lipstick
Raw Material Lipstick
Lipid:
Berbagai lipid pernah digunakan untuk bahan untuk membuat lipstik, yang mungkin Anda temukan dari
aplikasi dalam sejarah masa lalu. Di dunia lain, hampir setiap lipid dapat diterapkan untuk bahan dasar
pembuatan lipstik, pada karakternya dan berlaku dari masing-masing bahan. Oleh karena itu, produsen
harus sepenuhnya memahami setiap bahan lipid, yang merupakan dasar untuk proses pembuatan.
Aplikasi lipid yang paling populer adalah sebagai berikut.
Beeswax:
Beeswax belongs to the natural material and is applied as basic material. However, the man-made
beeswax is also applied widely together with PEG beeswax to improve the character of beeswax.Since
beeswax is including palmitic acid and 12 ~ 16% of separated wale’s wax, beeswax is very compliable
with other lipids such as vegetable oil, animal fat, fat,fat acid and mineral oil etc. Consequently, beeswax
is natural anti-bacterial, mod, and oxidation with very high stability. Beeswax, which is provided with
character of contraction, is good interface for mold releasing and is optimized for lipstick manufacturing.
Applying a little of fat acid will assist the coloring agent consistency as its original color.
Carnauba Wax:
Carnauba wax is the highest melt point from the vegetable wax, MP80~88, and the Carnauba wax
belongs to the hard wax. The main purpose of Carnauba wax forlipstick manufacturing is upgrading the
hardness of the lipstick, and will upgrade the brightness, shining, toughness and a little crystallization.
The mixture of amorphous wax will upgrade the performance of lipstick characters.
Candelilla Wax:
Candelilla Wax is forming under amorphous structure, without any crystal after melt. Candelilla will
provide the character of certain stiffness and rigid the formed lipstick, and the character of greasing.
Castor Oil:
It is the important solvent for color agent, and provides the character of high sticky to prevent the crack
from the brittle of lipsticks. There is a hydrogen oxide bondon the molecule of castor oil to provide the
character of moisture. However, the character of high sticky will prevent from the workability during
manufacturing, and hydrogen treatment will minimize the sticky for applications.
Lanoline:
Lanoline will be acting as the mixture or coupling agent for the material compounding. The mixture of
lanoline will keep the forming consistency of lipstick from the thermal or pressure shock during
processing. Lanoline provides the character of moisture absorbing and prevent the sweating of lipstick.
Ozokerite:
Ozokerite belongs to the amorphous was with high melting point, MP 76 ~ 80℃ . Main purpose of this
ingredient is upgrading the melt point of lipstick, and will upgrade the hardness of lipstick if combine
with Carnauba Wax.
Branched chain compounds composite of high class of alcohol and acid, and will form the porous film
when lipstick spread with lipstick. The materials are consisted of pur-cellin, isocetyl alcohol, neofatty
acid and alcohol, cetiol, isosteryl alcohol and acid etc.
2.3.1.9 Ceresin:
This is the best hardening agent, and can be mixed with microcrystalline wax, ceresin, and ozakerite for
better performance.
Fatty acid esters are the good coupling agent to mix the materials together, and provide the special
character for lipstick you made.
a. Isopropyl provides the best chill point and the fair dissolving character to dark red color agents.
c. Decyloleater & Hexyl laurate provide the disperse interface for color agents.
d. Isopropyl adipate & Diethl sebacate provide the solvent for color agent and disperse interface for
other color agents.
e. Di(Octyldodecyl) flouorcitrate liquid is high sticky tannery resin, which provides the disperse on color
agent and enhance the shining and smoothness.
f. Cetyle lactate is white soft solid phase, and applying in lip pencil, & lipstick for its oiliness softener to
improve appearance of milky lipstick.
g. Castor Oil is one kind dilute agent to minimize the viscosity for above material.
Stearic Acid is distilled from coconut or palm oils, to replace the Cocoa Butter, because of it’s low
melting point 38~45℃ and low Idem value.
b. Oleyl alcohol is shinny character for Glide-on type lipstick, which ever been fashion some time.
d. Hexadecyl alcohol is provide the C & H bond, and applying for smoothness of lipstick when application
first impression.
These fats and oils are forming the layer for humidity in lipstick, but applying quantity is limited because
of shinning and grain will be interfered.
The best shinning agent for lipstick, and will be water shinning if too much mineral oil.
2.3.1.15 Petrolatum:
The character of petrolatum is similar to mineral oil, but will be very sticky if too much applied within
the lipstick.
The best solvent for color agent, and provides the color adhesive for lipstick, this is also the reason for
drying lips after lipstick applied?
This kind of compound, Brij, Emulgene, Macrogol, Provol & Amerox are providing the best soluble
character to color agent, but not to the fat. The specialty of thiscompound is coloring easily to the
product.
In order to upgrade the melting point of lipstick, synthetic waxes are selected to apply for up or down of
the melting point upon the weather condition.a. Microcrystallines and Ceresin are applying for up the
higher melting point.b. Trilaurin & soft wax are applying for down the lower melting point, such as
25~29℃ . This kind of product will enhance the spreading of lipstick when applying,but not oily feeling.
It’s providing the softener to the skin.
The only vegetable oil applied in lipstick manufacturing is castor oil. Cocoa fat is good in character, but
its efflorescence is trouble for storage. Therefore, noprocessor applies the hydrogenated fat & oil till
now, because of keep fresh is not easy.
The process of lipstick manufacturing should not be fading of coloring. That is membrane can be applied
in conjugated polymer as oil base material to improve thecolor fading problem.
a. PVP / Hexadecene copolymer in 2 ~ 4% is the agent for forming the water proof membrane, which
provides the character to stabilize the color dispersing, andsoftener of skin.
White color agent in powder for form applying in lipstick is same as other cosmetics, and common
selections are titanium dioxide, talc, mica powder, mica coveredtitanium dioxide, and series of Stearic
acid etc.However, the powder form in lipstick application should be keeping the finesse as possible in
order to disperse the color agent evenly. Otherwise, the course grainson powder form will be bad
feeling to lips with uncomfortable and sandy.