Tu Clothing

Fabric Manual

Version: 2 - September 2014

Sainsbury’s
 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Tu Clothing Fabric Manual - Index

No. Section Name Page No. 4.4.2 Bulk fabric testing 15 6.3.2 Base fabric hanger and fabric spec 22
4.4.3 Testing subsequent bulk production 16 6.3.3 Base fabric testing 23
1. Introduction
4.4.4 Bulk trim fabric testing 16 6.3.4 Care Code selection and approval 23
1.1 Introduction 4
Garment appearance after launder (GAAL) 6.3.5 Fabric pre-production 23
1.2 Legal Requirements 5 4.4.5 16
submission reports 6.4 Mini Bulk Approval 24
1.3 Performance Standards 5 4.5 Stock Fabric Process 16 6.4.1 Mini Bulk 24
6.5 Bulk Approval 24
2. Colour Procedure 5. True Knitwear Approval 6.5.1 Bulk fabric approval 24
2.1 Colour Approval Process 6 5.1 True Knitwear Approval Process Diagram 17 6.5.2 Bulk fabric hanger 24
2.2 Colour Standards 6 5.2 Fit For Purpose Assessment 18 6.5.3 Bulk Fabric testing 25
2.3 Colour Lab Dip submissions 7 5.3 Base Approval 19 6.5.4 Testing subsequent bulk production 25
2.4 Bulk Fabric 7 5.3.1 An approved Buying sample 19 6.5.5 Bulk trim fabric testing 25
2.5 Industry Best Practice 8 5.3.2 True Knitwear specification 19 Garment apperance after launder (GAAL) sub-
6.5.6 25
5.3.3 Base fabric test 19 mission reports
3. Print Methods 5.3.4 Care code selection and approval 19
3.1 Print Methods 10 5.4 Bulk 20 7. Online Fabric Approval
7.1 Online Fabric Approval Process 26
5.4.1 Green seal sample 20
APPROVAL PROCESSES 5.4.2 Bulk fabric test reports 20
7.2 Online Fabric Approval Process Diagram 27
7.3 List of approved labs 28
4. General Fabric Approval Garment apperance after launder (GAAL) sub-
5.4.3 20
mission reports 7.4 Lab accreditation 28
4.1 Fabric Approval Process Diagram 11
5.4.4 Testing subsequent bulk production 20
4.2 Fit For Purpose Assessment 12
5.4.5 Bulk Trim Fabric Testing 20
4.3 Base Fabric Approval Process 12
4.3.1 Base fabric approval 12
Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment
4.3.2 Base fabric hanger and fabric specification 13 6.
Dyed Approval
4.3.3 Base fabric testing 13
Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment
6.1 21
4.3.4 Care Code Selection and Approval 14 Dyed Approval Process Diagram

4.3.5 Fabric pre-production 14 6.2 Fit for purpose assessment 22

4.4 Bulk Fabric Approval 15 6.3 Base Fabric Approval Process 22

4.4.1 Bulk fabric hanger 15 Base fabric, garment dye process and wash
6.3.1 22
level approval

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Tu Clothing Fabric Manual - Index

APPENDICES Tu Clothing Fabric Performance Tables

1 Colour fastness requirements and appearance assessment
Tu Clothing Fabric Technical Standard Documents
2 Performance standards for woven fabrics
Supplier Colour Process 3 Performance standards for weft and warp knit fabrics
Lab Dip Submission Form
4 Performance standards for true knitwear
Hanger Header
5 Performance standards for lingerie
Strike-off Submission Form
6a Performance standards for Schoolwear wovens
Risk Assessement Form
Wearer Trial Form 6b Performance standards for Schoolwear weft knits and true knitwear

Fabric Hanger Header Guide 7 Performance standards for heavy gauge hosiery and socks
Woven Fabric Specification 8 Performance standards for hats, textile gloves, scarves and capes
Weft / Warp Knitted Fabric Specification 9 Performance standards for belts
Leather and Suede Specification
10 Performance standards for leather garments and gloves
Recommended Care Codes and Additional Wording 11 Toy and dress up testing requirements
Care Symbols
12 Product performance and safety testing
Care Wording
13 Performance standards for promotional claims
Fabric Pre-Production Form
14 Performance standards for bags
True Knitwear Fabric Specification

Hanger header denim bulk

Hanger header base and bulk

Hanger header shade band

Hanger header denim band

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Introduction
1.1 Introduction
The purpose of the Tu Clothing Fabric manual is to clearly state the responsibilities of Sainsbury’s Testing Requirements
Tu Clothing suppliers in relation to fabric quality, performance and suitability for the proposed To maintain Tu Clothing’s quality standards the testing procedures detailed in this section must
end use. It is important that all of the relevant people in your organisation read and understand be strictly followed by all suppliers. You must ensure that your respective Fabric suppliers, Dyers
the requirements stated in this manual. and Finishers are aware of the standards listed in the Tu Clothing Fabric Peformance tables.
It is your reponsibility (or your nominated agent) to ensure that laboratories have sufficient
The Tu Clothing Fabric manual is a supporting document to the Tu Clothing Supplier Handbook fabric samples for all the tests required for a garment.
which forms part of the Tu Clothing Trading Terms. Please pay particular attention to the
Sainsbury’s Code of Conduct in the ‘Trading with you’ section and the Legal requirements in the
All tests, nominated by the supplier, technologist or agent, that derive from a nominated testing
‘Technical & Quality’ section.
lab must demonstrate to Tu Clothing that all fabrics used in the manufacture of its products are:
Appendix: Tu Clothing Supplier Handbook
-- Safe and legal
-- Fit for purpose
This Tu Clothing Fabric manual is supported by the Tu Clothing Fabric Performance tables and
-- Meet our Quality Performance Standards
Tu Clothing Fabric Technical Appendices.

Appendix: Tu Clothing Fabric Performance tables Tu Clothing reserves the right to request additional testing at the suppliers expense.
Appendix: Tu Clothing Fabric Technical Appendices
Fabric testing is approved by the Sainsbury’s Tu Fabric Technologist or Testing Technical Support.
Before placing any business both the supplier and garment factory unit need to be approved. It is the garment suppliers responsibility to ensure that fabrics are tested in line with the critical
To supply to Sainsbury’s all new suppliers must be signed off by the Heads of Clothing, Buying path and to the fabric performance standards.
and Merchandising. Only original test results (PDF format) originating from our Approved Testing Laboratories will
be accepted by Tu Clothing. Test reports that have been scanned and saved as a PDF format or
photo copied cannot be approved.
Non Compliance

Contact Details
KEY: It is important that you follow the exact requirements in each of the sections when
supplying Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing. Failure to do so may result in non-compliance charges. Appendix: Approved Laboratory Contact Details

Appendix: Clothing Conducting Business with Sainsbury’s Handbook IMPORTANT: Test reports must be submitted using our Online Testing Sstem (sainsburys.
sgs.com). Any queries, please contact a Tu Fabric Technologist.

KEY: You, the supplier, will be responsible for all the costs of testing.

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Introduction
1.2 Legal Requirements 1.3 Performance Standards
All products developed and sold to Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing must comply with the product and All fabric and garments supplied to Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing must meet the performance
retailing laws of the UK. In addition to this Sainsbury’s Tu clothing policies regarding Safety and standards set out in the Performance Tables. Please discuss with the Tu Fabric Technologist any
restricted substances, ethical code of conduct and environmental policies must be adhered to. exceptions to this before orders are placed.

Appendix: Tu Clothing Supplier Handbook Appendix: Tu Clothing Fabric Performance tables

IMPORTANT: It is the responsibility of the supplier to manage compliance. However, the

Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing Technologist may request documentation that demonstates Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
compliance at any time.
Clothing Fabric Performance Tables

Table 13: Performance standards for promotional claims

Claim Requirements Comments

TU57 Water proof 1600mm before and after wash cycle Both Fabric and Garment Seam, Test on every colourway

TU58 Water repellent 1000mm before and after wash cycle Test on every colourway

TU59 Shower resistant 4 before and after 1 wash cycle Test on every colourway

TU60 Antibacterial Min 95% bacteria eliminated on unwashed product, min 70% after washing For products claiming to have antibacterial/antimicrobial properties

Normal use 50%

TU61 Breathable Active use 65% Test as composite
Highly active use 80%

TU62 Wind Resistant Wind resistant <20 litres/m2/sec Test as composite

TU63 Moisture wicking > 5.0cm within 5 minutes

TU64 Quick dry > 20% at 30 minutes

TU29 Easy Care/Easy Iron 4 after ironing Assess fabric pre wash and post wash for material appearance

Assess complete product pre washing and post washing for seam and
TU30 Non Iron 4 without ironing
material appearance

TU65 UV Protection (product) Minimum or UPF 40+ For products claiming UV protection

TU66 Hats - Protection against UV Minimum UPF 50+ For hats claiming UV protection

Above the tog of a similar product For products claiming thermal properties.
TU67 Thermal properties
making no performance claim Not for newborn sleep bags.
1.5 Tog Summer
TU68 Tog Rating For newborn sleepbags only, +/-0.5 Tog value uncertainty
2.5 Tog Winter
Grade 5 before washing
TU28 Stain and oil repellent All garments claiming oil and stain repellancy
Grade 3 after 10 washes
Grade 4 Before Washing
Extra washes to be done upon technologists request,
TU31 Wrinkle Resistant Grade 4 After 1 Wash
Results reviewed alongside wearer trial.
Grade 4 After 5 Washes

If a claim is not listed in the performance table, please submit testing to prove the garment/fabric performance is better than an equivalent product that makes no claim.

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Colour procedure
2.1 Colour Approval Process 2.2 Colour Standards
The section below details our colour processes, a summary of which is located in the appendices. Colour Standards are available to purchase from www.sainsburyscolourshop.com Purchases
are to be paid for at the time of ordering. After the order is complete the QTX file is sent to
your email address which contains the spectral information regarding that colour. Your physical
Appendix: Tu Clothing Supplier Colour Process
standard should arrive within 5 working days of ordering.

The Sainsbury’s Tu colour palette is generated each season by the Design Team and Tu Colour
Where a colour cannot be standardised, for example with denim, marls or for quick response, a
Standards are produced.
swatch of fabric will be sent for matching purposes by the Buying Team.
The Buying Team will issue instructions to the supplier as to which colours and substrates they
require lab dips for.

All lab dips and production fabric must be matched to the Tu Colour Standard.

Lab dips should then be created on the correct substrate and construction for the buying team to
approve. These should meet our tolerances spectrally (≤ 1dE and ≤ 0.8dL, dC, dH to the standard)
and also be a good visible match.

It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that any colour matching issues are raised in
order to not impact the critical path.

IMPORTANT: All dyes, auxiliaries and chemicals used in the preparation, dyeing and finishing
of Tu product must meet our testing standards and Sainsbury’s quality, safety, REACH and
legal requirements.

seasonal colour palette sept oct 03 01 13.jpg

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Colour procedure
2.3 Colour Lab Dib Submissions 2.4 Bulk Fabric
Submissions should be made using the Lab Dip Submission Form. These should be measured If the Bulk fabric colour falls within 1.0 Delta E CMC (2:1) and 0.8 Delta L, Delta C, Delta H of the
against the standard before submission using a spectrophotometer and also visually compared original required standard then a submission should be sent directly to Tu Buying Team using
to the standard in a light box. the Fabric Header Hanger. The spectrophotometer QC Pass/Fail reports should be attached.

Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header

-- Primary Light Source- TL84
-- Secondary Light Source- D65
It is expected that the hue on all of the bulk fabric should reflect that approved on the lab dip ; i.e
remain in the same colour quadrant, red, yellow and so on.
Tungsten (A) Light Source should be used to check for Metamerism.

If the fabric colour falls outside of the tolerances then corrections should be made and the fabric
IMPORTANT: Lab Dip submissions should not be metameric. Metamerism is defined as a resubmitted.
phenomenon exhibited by a pair of coloured samples which match under one or more lights,
but not under all. This can be controlled by carefully selecting dye stuffs.
If the above criteria cannot be satisfied then the bulk fabric must be submitted to Tu Buying
along with detailed reasons as to why the colour cannot be achieved.

Appendix: Lab Dye Submission form On repeat colours, a new bulk fabric hanger should be submitted for approval to ensure
consistency.

Samples which have colour differences higher than the standard tolerances <1dE and <0.8dL, dC,
dH should not be sent. Corrections should be made to achieve a colour match that is as close to
the standard as possible. In the event that it is not possible to produce a good match within these
tolerances, the lab dip submission form should be marked “Best Possible” with an explanation as
to why the correct colour could not be matched to standard.

KEY: Approved lab dips or first bulk approvals do not become the standard. The Tu colour
standard remains the master colour standard in all cases.

KEY: Lab dips must have the same finishing routes as per the agreed sample.

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Colour procedure
2.5 Industry Best Practice
For best industry practice it is recommended the below methods are adhered to: Sample presentation and handling:
Colour Measurement should be taken using a double thickness of fabric.
Method 1- Using Spectrophotometer Where a fabric is transparent the lab dip should be folded sufficient times such that an accurate
Spectrophotometer settings: measurement can be taken.

Colour Difference Equation CMC (2:1)

Specular Included Measurement and orientation of samples:

UV Component Included (UV Filter is OFF) All samples should be smooth and without creases with the commercial face always measured.
All fabrics should have 4 readings obtained to optimise colour accuracy. The sample should
Illuminants Primary: TL84 Secondary: D65
be rotated 90 degrees between each read. The 4 measurements will then be automatically
Observer 10 Degree
averaged by the software and stored.
Aperture LAV (30mm Large Area View)

Presentation of the Sample Submission:

Colour Tolerances:
All submissions should be at least 4x4cm or a wound yarn wrap mounted upon the Tu Clothing
Lab Dips <1dE & <0.8dL, dC, dH Lab Dye Submission form using double sided tape at the top.
BULK Production & Continuity <1dE & <0.8dL, dC, dH
Appendix: Tu Clothing Lab Dip Submission Form

Sample Conditioning:
The spectrophotometer QC Pass/Fail report should be attached to confirm instrumental
Before measurement all fabrics should be conditioned for at least 30 minutes in a standard
compliance.
environment of 65% Humidity and 20 Degrees C (+/-2% / Degrees)
The sample should be exposed to D65 light in a Colour Assessment Cabinet within an air
conditioned room The Tu Clothing Lab Dip Submission Form should be printed onto A4 neutral grey card as
opposed to optically brightened paper/white card.
Measurements must be taken within 5 minutes after removal from the conditioning room/
cabinet.

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Colour procedure
Industry Best Practice (continued...)
Method 2- Colour Visual Procedure
The process of visual assessment of colour must be carried out by a trained assessor, i.e. an
individual who exhibits superior discrimination when assessed using the Munsell 100 Hue Test.
A Colour Assessment cabinet fitted with TL84/D65/UV/A illuminants should be used. This should
be painted with N5 colour and be equipped with a 45 degree fixed table.

Samples should be assessed under TL84 primary and D65 secondary light source. The sample
should be compared visually to the Tu Clothing standard swatch. A Tungsten light source should
be used to check for metamerism.

The observer should allow 20 seconds of adaptation to the illumination in the lighting cabinet.
When changing from TL84 to D65 (or TL84 to A Tungsten for lingerie products) the observer
should allow 20 seconds before making a judgment.

-- There should be no ambient light shining on the light cabinet or its contents.
-- Always assess colour in a clean and tidy cabinet, using a 45 degree fixed table.
-- Samples should be of a similar size to the standard.
-- Samples should not be mounted on any coloured or white background card.
-- Samples should be assessed adjacent to each other with their edges touching slightly.
-- The standard and the sample must be aligned in the same direction with respect to weave,
knit pattern or other textures.
-- Samples for comparison must always have the same number of fabric layers.
-- When viewing a fabric with nap (such as velvet or corduroy) , always do this with the nap
brushed in a downwards direction.
-- The observer should note colour differences for Lightness, Chroma, and Hue.
-- If the sample is a poor visual match, then a recipe correction should be made and the new
sample re-evaluated. Samples that are a poor visual match should not be submitted.

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Print Methods
3.1 Print Methods

Printing Methods

Placement Open Width

Garment Panels Fabric

Placement printing Open Width

All plasticisers used need to be banned/restricted phthalate free. Pigment printing is only to be used with agreement from the Tu Fabric technologist
 rop glitter methods are not be used because the glitter particles cannot be
D and is to be clearly detailed on the fabric specification.
adequately fixed. Where prints have a large dark background discharge printing should be used. In
All prints to be Formaldehyde free. this case please ensure PH values are within tolerance.

Please submit all strike offs for approval using the ‘Tu Strike Off Submission form’ IMPORTANT: Reactive Printing is the preferred method for all products

Appendix: Tu Strike Off Submission Form KEY: All printed fabrics and garments (excluding reactive and disperse printing)
must be tested for the durability of print and meet Sainsbury’s quality, safety and
legal requirements.
Testing Guidelines:
All prints (excluding reactive and disperse printing) carried out in fabric form should be tested using TU8
All prints, embellishments and trims applied in garment form should be tested using TU11
See Tu Fabric Performance Tables.

Appendix: Fabric Performance Tables

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Approval Processes - General Fabric Approval Process
4.1 Fabric Approval Process Diagram

The following process details the suppliers responsibilities in managing development and production.

Fabric technology Garment technology Buying/ Merchandising

Design packs, Supplier samples, Bought samples.

Fit for purpose assessment of fabric and garment for
potential quality issues. Supplier submits Initial 1st Fit Sample and sends a copy of Buyer requests Supplier to make the Initial 1st Fit Sample
completed Workbook prior to fitting. from any of the above.
Buyer and Garment Technologist ensure supplier / factory
Base Fabric Approval includes submission of fabric unit is signed off ethically and technically.
specification, base fabric testing (via the online system) and Product
Merchandiser sends out PO and requests Critical Path. Development
base fabric hanger for online technical approval.
Supplier to confirm PO received.
Initial 1st Fit sample will be reviewed and fitted by/with
Submit Base fabric hanger for approval of handle,
Tu. Landed suppliers to attend fit meetings. FOB suppliers
appearance and weight.
Care Code instructions submitted for approval. comments will be sent within 4 working days from fitting.
Lab dips and Trim approvals.

All of these stages should be arranged, agreed and approved before bulk production.

Bulk fabric test report submitted for approval before fabric Graded sealers will be requested and must be submitted Submit Bulk fabric hangers for approval of colour, handle,
is cut. within the critical path with a copy of the workbook. appearance and weight.

Bulk trim fabric test submitted for approval. Pre-Produc-

tion

Graded sealers will be reviewed and fitted by/with Tu.

Landed suppliers to attend fit meetings. FOB suppliers
comments will be emailed within 4 days of fitting.

All of these stages should be arranged, agreed and approved before bulk garment production.

Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) test submitted

for approval (where applicable).

Please follow Gold Seal process - refer to the garment Pre-

manual for further information. Shipment

Supplier may now request Booking / delivery slot with

warehouse.

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Approval Processes - General Fabric Approval Process
4.2 Fit For Purpose Assessment 4.3 Base Fabric Approval Process
4.3.1 Base Fabric Approval
KEY: It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that the Fabric Approval Process is adhered
to.
DEFINITION: Base Fabric - Base fabric represents the fabric that will be produced in bulk. The
fabric specification, quality and processing route must replicate bulk conditions. Base fabric does
Fit for Purpose Assessment not have to be in the correct colour.
It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure that any fabric proposed is fit for purpose.
All fabric and trims must be assessed for potential quality failure and appropriate testing IMPORTANT: Different dye routes should be considered as separate base qualities, e.g. solid,
selected to measure this. marls, yarn dyes and prints.
The whole garment must be assessed for risk of quality failures, eg. cross staining and differential
shrinkage that can only be assessed by considering the fabric in garment form. Please use the
The base fabric must reach the acceptable quality level based on the Tu performance
Risk Assessment Form
requirements.

Appendix: Risk Assessment Form

KEY: Base fabric quality must be agreed and approved by the Tu Buyer and Tu Fabric
Technologist prior to ordering bulk fabric. Any agreements made at base stage must be
Please highlight to the Buyer, Fabric Technologist and Garment Technologist any standards
achieved in bulk. Approval of a base fabric will be given by the Tu Fabric Technologist only
that cannot be met at the development stage so that an agreement can be reached prior to
when the base hanger, fabric specification, base test report and care instructions are all
production. This includes any garment that cannot achieve a machine washable care code at
submitted and confirmed to meet Tu standards.
40 degrees.

Wearer trials can be used to assess the suitability for end use. Wearer trials must always be made
from fabric that is representative of bulk production manufacturing. A wearer trial requirement
is a minimum of 50 hours and 2 care label washes. Please use the Tu Wearer Trial form.

Appendix: Tu Wearer Trial Form

All promotional claims must be approved by the Tu Fabric Technologist at Product Development
stage. Appropriate testing must be conducted at base to substantiate the claim.

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Approval Processes - General Fabric Approval Process
Base Fabric Approval Process (continued...)
4.3.2 Base Fabric Hanger and Fabric Specification 4.3.3 Base Fabric Testing
One copy of the base hanger and fabric specification should be submitted to the Tu Fabric Physical testing must be carried out as outlined in the Sainsbury’s Tu Fabric Performance Tables
Technologist and one copy to the Buyer on a Tu fabric hanger header. and additional testing selected from the tables depending on the end use and promotional
claims.

Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header

Appendix: Tu Clothing Fabric Performance Tables

The fabric must be correct for handle, appearance and weight (not necessarily colour).
The hanger header must be fully completed and signed by the supplier. A weight check must be KEY: Testing should be carried out to Tu wash symbol SY33 unless agreed otherwise with
taken before submission and a resultant weight indicated on the hanger and fabric specification. the Tu Fabric Technologist.
The weight circle should be cut from the fabric hanger and attached. Hanger submission
instructions should be followed.

Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Guide

Base testing will remain valid for a period of 6 months from the test report date, after which an
updated test report will need to be submitted for approval.
Please attach the fully completed fabric specification to the base hanger. Colourfastness performance must be risk assessed at base stage and claims of performance
must be confirmed by appropriate testing or other evidence from the fabric mill that Sainsbury’s
Appendix: Woven fabric specification Tu Clothing standards can be met.

Appendix: Weft and Warp fabric specification

Appendix: Leather and Suede specification A Fibre Composition test report must be provided at Base and/or Bulk for blends and single
fibre fabrics.. With agreement from Tu Fabric Technologist for single fibre fabrics a certificate
Approval of the base hanger will be given by both the Tu Fabric Technologist (for quality) and by
or guarantee from the mill for composition may be accepted. Fibre composition testing is valid
the Tu Buyer (for handle, appearance and weight).
for 6 months. Composition must be tested early enough to allow correct care labels to be
The fabric specification and base testing must be submitted via the online system at the same ordered in line with the critical path. Labelling garments with the correct composition is a Legal
time so that an approval can be made. Requirement.
Base hangers (accompanied with fabric specification) must be re-submitted every 6 months to By exception, test reports produced for other retailers may be sufficient to prove testing
ensure continuity. performance if the tests correlate with Tu test methods. In this case, a full test at bulk stage
completed to Tu standards will be required. Additional tests may be requested at the Tu
Technologists discretion.

Please submit base testing for approval via the Online Testing System.

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Approval Processes - General Fabric Approval Process
Base Fabric Approval Process (continued...)
4.3.4 Care Code Selection and Approval
4.3.5 Fabric Pre-production
IMPORTANT: Sainsbury’s Tu customers expect their clothing to be as easy as possible
to care for. Ideally all clothing should be machine washable at 40°C and tumble DEFINITION: Fabric Pre Production - A best practice meeting involving the garment supplier,
dryable. ’Hand wash’ and ‘Dry Clean’ may only be used with approval from the Tu Fabric garment factory, fabric mill and Sainsburys representative to discuss all aspects of the fabric
Technologist. specification, production standards and requirements.

When proposing care instructions for a product please refer to the following appendices:
At the end of the meeting all parties should be in agreement to proceed with bulk fabric production
in accordance with all points detailed in the Fabric Pre Production form. The completed form
Appendix: Recommended Care Codes and Additional Wording should be forwarded to the relevant Tu Fabric Technologist.
Appendix: Care Symbols
Appendix: Tu Care Wording Appendix: Fabric Pre Production form

All testing at Base and Bulk must be carried out to the appropriate care code instructions. IMPORTANT: All of these stages should be arranged, agreed and approved before bulk fabric
Only use SY and W references as these can be referenced to care label suppliers. No other codes production starts in line with the critical path
or free type are permitted.
For leather and suede garments a Dry Clean garment assessment is conducted on bulk skins
(each colour) to assess appropriate solvent selection on skin type and styling details. Care labels
are then confirmed.

IMPORTANT: Please submit proposed wash care instructions for approval via the online
testing system. It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure Wash Care Instructions are
approved by the Tu Fabric Technologist for all orders, (including repeats) before care
labels are ordered. Overstickers are not permitted.

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Approval Processes - General Fabric Approval Process
4.4 Bulk Fabric Approval
Bulk Fabric Definition: 4.4.2 Bulk Fabric Testing
The actual production fabric in the correct colour.
It is mandatory to test the following on every bulk colourway;
It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that the bulk fabric quality performs to the
agreed Tu standards. -- Full colour fastness tests
Bulk fabric that is sent for approval must come from bulk production and be tested to Tu -- Full physical tests including wash stability
standards as detailed in the Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing Performance Tables.
-- Promotional Claims
-- Safety and Legal requirements as detailed in the Tu Performance Tables.
Appendix: Tu Clothing Fabric Performance Tables

It is the suppliers responsibility to check the Tu Performance Tables for full testing requirements.
4.4.1 Bulk Fabric Hanger
Bulk test results are valid for 6 months for any particular colourway, after which an updated
A Bulk Fabric Hanger must be sent to the Buyer for approval of colour, handle, appearance and report must be re-submitted for approval.
weight. Please send one copy on the Tu fabric hanger header.

Bulk test requirements for specific styles may be discussed and agreed with the Tu Technologist
Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header prior to testing. It is mandatory that all bulk testing must be raised using the test request
function on the Online testing system. No attached bulk test reports will be accepted.

The hanger header must be fully completed and signed by the supplier. A weight check must be
taken before submission and a resultant weight indicated on the hanger and specification. The Approval for bulk testing is given by the relevant Testing Technical Support via the Online Testing
weight circle should be attached to the fabric hanger. System. To gain approval, please see section 7.

Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Guide It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that any changes made during production meet the
agreed quality standards and that notification is given to the buying and technical teams.

Bulk weight must be within a tolerance of -3% or +5% of the weight approved at base stage.
When approval is given by the Buyer for colour, handle, appearance and weight, bulk fabric test
results should be submitted to the relevant Testing Technical Support for approval in line with
the critical path.

IMPORTANT: Bulk fabric should not be cut until bulk testing has been approved online and
the bulk hanger approved by the Tu Buyer.

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Approval Processes - General Fabric Approval Process
Bulk Fabric Approval (continued...) 4.5 Stock Fabric Process
4.4.3 Testing Subsequent Bulk Production DEFINITION: Stock Fabric - A fabric that has been manufactured and stored without
Subsequent batches of the same bulk fabric must be tested to Tu standards and kept for internal knowledge of Sainsbury’s performance requirements. Any stock fabric proposed must always
records. meet the quality performance standards outlined in the Tu Clothing Fabric Performance Tables.

IMPORTANT: If the fabric quality is used in another style it is the suppliers responsibility
to ensure that the fabric remains fit for purpose. In order to obtain Tu Fabric Approval, please follow the procedures outlined below:
Fit for purpose assessment (Section 4.2)
We will audit your product on a regular basis by checking the product on delivery and in store. Appendix: Risk Assessment form
KEY: All test reports must be available for inspection and provided within 24 hours or
request. If we find any deviation from the agreed performance standards set at first bulk, Submission of fabric specification (Section 4.3.2)
a product recall may occur, for which the supplier will be liable. The supplier will also be Appendix: Woven Fabric specification
liable for any loss of profit and any other related costs as outlined in the Costs of Non Appendix: Weft & Warp Fabric specification
Compliance.
Appendix: True Knitwear Fabric specification

Appendix: Conducting Business with Sainsburys Tu Clothing Handbook

Care code selection and approval (Section 4.3.5)
Appendix: Recommended Care Code and additional wording
4.4.4 Bulk Trim Fabric Testing
Appendix: Care Symbols
A trim fabric that is more than 10% by area of a garment must be tested for full bulk testing.
Appendix: Tu Care Wording
All linings and pocket bags are subject to full testing.
Fabric components that are less than 10% by area of the garment must be risk assessed by the
Stock fabric hanger (Section 4.4.1)
garment supplier and appropriate testing agreed and completed.
Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header
For all garment components such as belts and buttons, please refer to the Sainsburys Tu Clothing
Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Guide
Garment Manual and Tu Fabric Performance Tables for testing guidelines.
Stock test report – Please test full physicals and colour fastness to Tu standards.
Batch testing- (Section 4.4.3)
4.4.5 Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) Submission Reports Trim fabric testing- (Section 4.4.4)
Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing require a Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) on garments with Garment appearance after launder (GAAL) (Section 4.4.5)
embellishment, print, trims, mixed fabrics or as specifically requested by the Tu Fabric/Garment For stock garment testing requirements please consult your Tu Fabric Technologist.
Technologist. In some cases mock samples can be tested earlier in the critical path.
KEY: Approval of bulk testing must be given before gold seals can be approved. Failure to
follow these procedures may result in delays to the critical path. These may incur costs
which are the liability of the supplier.

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Approval Processes - True Knitwear Approval
5.1 True Knitwear Approval Process Diagram

The following process details the suppliers responsibilities in managing development and production.
Product technology Buying/ Merchandising

Design packs, Supplier samples, Bought samples.

Supplier submits Initial 1st Fit Sample/Buying Sample and
Fit for purpose assessment of yarn and knit structure for sends a copy of completed Workbook (created from the Adult
potential quality issues. Workbook Library) prior to fitting. Buyer requests supplier to make the initial 1st fit sample from
any of the above.

Ensure Supplier / factory unit is signed off ethically and

Base approval including submission of a buying sample, yarn/ technically.
fabric specification, base test report and proposed wash care Product
instructions. Merchandiser sends out PO and requests Critical Path. Supplier
Development
to confirm PO received

Base Approval - Buying sample submitted for approval of handle,

Initial 1st Fit sample will be reviewed and fitted by/with Tu. appearance and predicted weight.
Landed suppliers to attend fit meetings.
FOB suppliers comments will be emailed within 4 working days
from fitting. Colour and Trim approvals.

Bulk fabric test to be submitted for approval for physical, colour Graded sealers will be requested and must be submitted within Submit green seal to buying for colour, handle, appearance and
fastness and fibre composition. the critical path with a copy of the workbook. weight.

Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL X 1 test) for fully Pre-

fashioned garments production
Graded sealers will be reviewed and fitted by/with Tu.
Landed suppliers to attend fit meetings.
FOB suppliers comments will be emailed within 4 days of fitting.

Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL X 3 test) for cut

and sew garments and/or fully fashioned garments with added
embellishments

Please follow Gold Seal process - refer to the Garment Manual Pre-
for further information. shipment

Supplier may now request Booking / delivery slot

with warehouse.

It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that any yarn and knit structure proposed is fit for purpose.

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Approval Processes - True Knitwear Approval
5.2 Fit For Purpose Assessment
All garments and trims must be assessed for potential quality failure and appropriate testing
selected to measure this.

The whole garment must be assessed for risks of quality failures, for example dimensional
stability, pilling and cross staining. Please use the ‘Risk Assessment Form’

Appendix: Risk Assessment Form

Please highlight to the Buyer and Tu Product Technologist any standards that cannot be met at
the development stage so that an agreement can be reached. This includes any garment that
can not achieve a machine washable care code at 40 degrees.

Wearer trials can be used to assess the suitability for end use. Wearer trials must always be
made from the yarn and in the knit structure that will be used in bulk production manufacturing.
A wearer trial requirement is a minimum of 50 hours and 2 care label washes. Please use the
‘Wearer Trial Form’

Appendix: Wearer Trial Form

All promotional claims must be approved by the Tu Product Technologist at development stage.
Appropriate testing must be conducted to substantiate the claim.

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Approval Processes - True Knitwear Approval
5.3 Base Approval
To establish the buying sample knit quality please submit to Sainsburys: Please note : When using exactly the same yarn on the same gauge for a number of styles
you may submit one Buying Sample fabric test report. Please ensure that you make it clear
which styles you are submitting this report for. If you are using the same yarn in two gauges for
5.3.1 An approved Buying sample
example 7gg and 12gg a test report for each is required at this stage.
The Buying Sample should be representative of the garment that will be produced in bulk. The
The completed yarn/fabric specification and base testing must be submitted via the online
yarn specification, knitting gauge and knitting specification must replicate bulk conditions. The
system so that an approval can be made. See section 7 for details.
Buying sample does not have to be in the correct colour.

5.3.4 Care Code Selection and Approval

5.3.2 True Knitwear Specification
IMPORTANT: Sainsbury’s Tu customers expect their clothing to be as easy as possible
Appendix: True Knitwear Fabric specification to care for. Ideally all clothing should be machine washable at 40°C and tumble dryable.
’Hand wash’ and ‘Dry Clean only’ may only be used with approval from the Tu Fabric
Technologist.
5.3.3 Base fabric test
Base fabric test results including fibre composition.
Please see the Tu Knitwear performance table for Testing requirements. When proposing care instructions for a product please refer to the following appendices:

Test reports for other retailers may be sufficient to prove testing performance if the tests
correlate with Tu test methods. Additional tests may be requested at the Tu Technologists Appendix: Recommended Care Codes and Additional Wording
discretion. In this case, a full bulk test to Tu standards will be required. Appendix: Care Symbols
Base test reports are valid for a period of 6 months after which they will need to be refreshed. Appendix: Tu Care Wording
Colourfastness performance must be risk assessed at this stage and claims of performance
must be confirmed by appropriate testing or other evidence from the fabric mill that Sainsbury’s
All testing at Base and Bulk must be carried out to the appropriate care code instructions.
Tu Clothing standards can be met.
Only use SY and W references as these can be referenced to care label suppliers. No other codes
Approval of the base yarn/knit structure is given by Buying for weight, handle and appearance
or free type are permitted.
and by the Tu Technologist for testing performance.

IMPORTANT: All of these stages should be arranged, agreed and approved before bulk
fabric production starts in line with the critical path. Please submit proposed wash
care instructions for approval via the online testing system (See section 7). It is the
suppliers responsibility to ensure Wash Care Instructions are approved by the Tu
Product Technologist for all orders, including repeats, before care labels are ordered.
Overstickers are not permitted.

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Approval Processes - True Knitwear Approval
5.4 Bulk
To confirm bulk quality please submit the following to Sainsburys ; 5.4.4 Testing Subsequent Bulk Production
All subsequent production of the same yarn and knit structure must meet the performance
5.4.1 Green Seal sample. standards agreed at first bulk. If the yarn quality and knit structure is used on another style, it
is the suppliers responsibility that it remains fit for purpose and all relevant testing is conducted
Buyer will approve colour, handle, appearance and weight.
to Tu Standards. The supplier must carry out testing to ensure consistency and keep for internal
Garment weight should be indicated on the Green Seal sample and also added to the workbook records. We will audit your product on a regular basis by checking the product on delivery and
for the style. It must be within -3% to +5% of the weight approved at base. in store.
KEY: All test reports must be available for inspection and provided within 24 hours or
request. If we find any deviation from the agreed performance standards set at first bulk,
5.4.2 Bulk fabric test reports.
a product recall may occur, for which the supplier will be liable. The supplier will also be
For all colourways it is mandatory to test full physical and colourfastness properties to the Tu liable for any loss of profit and any other related costs as outlined in the Costs of Non
Performance Standards. Please note wash stability should be tested in garment form. Compliance.

Appendix: Conducting Business with Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing Handbook

A Fibre Composition test report must be provided at bulk for blends and single fibre fabrics.
Fibre composition testing is valid for 6 months. With agreement from the Tu Fabric Technologist,
for single fibre fabrics a certificate or guarantee from the mill for composition may be accepted. 5.4.5 Bulk Trim Fabric Testing
Composition must be tested early enough to allow correct care labels to be ordered in line with A trim fabric that is more than 10% by area of a garment must be tested for full bulk testing. All
the critical path. Labelling garments with the correct composition is a legal requirement. linings and pocket bags are subject to full testing.

5.4.3 Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) submission reports Fabric components that are less than 10% by area of the garment must be risk assessed by the
Sainsbury’s Tu clothing require a Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) for all garments. garment supplier and appropriate testing agreed and completed.
By agreement mock samples can be tested earlier in the critical path.
For all garment components such as belts and buttons, please refer to the Sainsburys Tu Clothing
All completed bulk testing must be submitted via the online system so that an approval can be Garment Manual and Tu Fabric Performance Tables for testing guidelines.
made-see section 7.
Appendix: Tu Clothing Garment Manual

KEY: Approval of bulk testing must be given before gold seals can be signed off. Failure to
follow these procedures whcih result in delays to the critical path may incur costs which are
the liability of the supplier.

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Approval Processes - Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment Dyed
6.1 Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment Dyed Process Diagram

The following process details the suppliers responsibilities in managing development and production.
Fabric Technology Garment Technology Buying/ Merchandising

Design packs, Supplier samples, Bought samples.

Fit for purpose assessment of Fabric, Wash, Dye Route
and Garment for potential quality issues. Supplier submits Initial 1st Fit Sample and sends a copy Buyer requests supplier to make the initial 1st fit sample from
of completed Workbook prior to fitting. any of the above.

Base Fabric, Dye Process and Wash Level Approval includ- Ensure Supplier / factory unit is signed off ethically and
technically.
ing Fabric Specification, Base Fabric testing and Base Product
Hanger for technical approval; shade of base hanger to be Development
Merchandiser sends out PO and requests Critical Path. Supplier
as close as possible to the shade being bought to confirm PO received
IInitial 1st Fit sample will be reviewed and fitted by /with Tu. Landed
suppliers to attend fit meetings. Submit base fabric and wash level for approval of colour, handle
FOB suppliers comments will be sent within 4 working and appearance
Care Code Instructions submitted for approval. days from fitting.
Trim approvals.

All of these stages should be arranged, agreed and approved before mini bulk production.

Graded sealers will be requested and must be submitted

within the critical path with a copy of the workbook.

Mini Bulk fabric shade band submitted for colour, handle,

Mini Bulk fabric submitted for Dry Rub Approval.
appearance weight and wash level.
Mini Bulk
Graded sealers will be reviewed and fitted by/with Tu.
Landed suppliers to attend fit meetings. FOB suppliers com-
ments will be sent within 4 days of fitting.

All of the above stages should be complete and approved before bulk garment production proceeds

First Bulk test report submitted for approval. Include Gar- Bulk Fabric Hanger submitted for colour, handle, appear-
ment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) if required. ance, weight and wash level.
Bulk

Please follow Gold Seal process in the garment manual for further Supplier may now request Booking / delivery slot
information. with warehouse. Pre-shipment

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Approval Processes - Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment Dyed
6.2 Fit For Purpose Assessment 6.3 Base Fabric Approval Process
It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that the Fabric Approval Process is adhered to. 6.3.1 Base Fabric, Garment Dye Process and Wash Level Approval

DEFINITION: Base Fabric - Base fabric represents the fabric that will be produced in bulk. The
Fit for purpose assessment
fabric specification, quality, wash level and processing route must replicate bulk conditions.
It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that any new fabric, proposed wash or garment dye is
fit for purpose.
All fabric, garment dyeing and washes must be assessed for potential quality failure and IMPORTANT: Each dye route ; sulphur, indigo etc and wash recipe should be considered
appropriate testing selected to measure this. as a new fabric base.

The whole garment must be assessed for risks of quality failures, eg. cross staining and
differential shrinkage which can only be assessed by considering the fabric in garment form. The base fabric must reach the acceptable quality level based on the Tu performance
Please use the Risk Assessment Form. requirements.
Base fabric quality and wash level must be agreed and approved by the Tu Buyer and Tu Fabric
Appendix: Risk Assessment form Technologist prior to ordering bulk fabric. Any agreements made at base stage must be achieved
in bulk.
Please highlight to the Tu Buyer, Fabric Technologist and Garment Technologist any standards
KEY: Approval of a base fabric will be given by the Tu Fabric Technologist only when the base
that cannot be met at the development stage so that an agreement can be reached. This
hanger, fabric specification, base test report and care instructions are all submitted online
includes any garment that can not achieve a machine washable care code at 40 degrees.
and confirmed to meet Tu standards.
Wearer trials can be used to assess the suitability for end use. Wearer trials must always be
made from fabric that is from bulk production manufacturing. A wearer trial requirement is a
minimum of 50 hours and 2 care label washes. Please use- “Tu Wearer Trial Form” 6.3.2 Base Fabric Hanger and Fabric Specification
One submission of the unwashed/undyed fabric should be sent to the TU Fabric Technologist on
Appendix: Tu Wearer Trial form a Tu Fabric Hanger Header

Appendix: Tu Fabric Hanger Header

All promotional claims must be approved by a Tu Fabric Technologist at product development
stage. Appropriate testing must be conducted at base to substantiate the claim. Please submit 2 submissions (1 to the Tu Buyer, 1 to the Tu Fabric Technologist) of the correct
wash level and or garment dye process, either as a fabric hanger, washed leg (to include a
production seam) or garment.
The hanger header must be fully completed and signed by the supplier. A weight check must be
taken, before and after wash or garment dyeing, and a resultant weight indicated on the hanger
and specification. The weight circle should be attached to the fabric hanger. Each submission
must be accompanied by a dry rub test, showing a minimum Grade 3-4. The hanger must be as
close to the colour requested by the buyer as possible.

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Approval Processes - Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment Dyed
Base Fabric Approval Process (continued...)
Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Guide 6.3.4 Care code selection and approval
Please attach the fully completed fabric specification to the base hanger. Please ensure the
IMPORTANT: Sainsbury’s Tu customers expect their clothing to be as easy as possible
wash recipe and or garment dye route is specified on the fabric specification,
to care for. Ideally all clothing should be machine washable at 40°C and tumble dryable.
’Hand wash’ and ‘Dry Clean only’ may only be used with approval from the Tu Fabric
Appendix: Woven Fabric specification Technologist.
Appendix: Weft and Warp fabric specification
When proposing care instructions for a product please refer to the following appendices:
Approval of the base hanger will be given by both the Tu Fabric Technologist (for quality) and by
Tu Buying (for colour, handle and appearance). Appendix: Recommended care codes and additional wording
The fabric specification and base testing must be submitted via the online system at the same Appendix: Care Symbols
time so that an approval can be made.
Appendix: Tu Care Wording
Base hangers (accompanied with the fabric specification) must be re-submitted every 6 months
All testing at Base and Bulk must be carried out to the appropriate care code instructions.
to ensure continuity.
Only SY and W references can be used as these can be referenced to care label suppliers. No
other codes or free type are permitted.
6.3.3 Base Fabric Testing
IMPORTANT: All of these stages should be arranged, agreed and approved before bulk
Physical testing must be carried out as outlined in the Sainsbury’s Tu Fabric Performance Tables
fabric production starts in line with the critical path. Please submit proposed wash
and additional testing selected from the tables depending on the end use and promotional
care instructions for approval via the online testing system. (See section 7) It is the
claims.
suppliers responsibility to ensure Wash Care Instructions are approved by the Tu
Colourfastness performance must be risk assessed at base stage and claims of performance Fabric Technologist for all orders, (including repeats) before care labels are ordered.
must be confirmed by appropriate testing or other evidence from the fabric mill that Sainsbury’s Overstickers are not permitted.
Tu Clothing standards can be met.
A Fibre Composition test report must be provided at Base and/or Bulk for blends and single fibre 6.3.5 Fabric Pre-production
fabrics. With agreement from the Tu Fabric Technologist for single fibre fabrics, a certificate or
guarantee from the mill for composition may be accepted. Fibre composition testing is valid for DEFINITION: Fabric Pre-Production - A best practice meeting involving the garment
6 months. Composition must be tested early enough to allow correct care labels to be ordered in supplier, garment factory, fabric mill, laundry and Sainsbury’s representative to discuss all
line with the critical path. Labelling garments with the correct composition is a legal requirement. aspects of the fabric specification, production standards and requirements.
Test reports produced for other retailers may be sufficient to prove testing performance if the
tests correlate with Tu test methods. Additional tests may be requested at the Tu Technologists At the end of the meeting all parties should be in agreement to proceed with bulk fabric
discretion. In this case, a full bulk test to Tu standards will be required. production in accordance with all points detailed in the Fabric Pre Production document. The
Please submit base testing for approval via the Online Testing System. completed document should be forwarded to the relevant TU Fabric Technologist.
Appendix: Fabric Pre Production form

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Approval Processes - Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment Dyed
6.4 Mini Bulk Approval 6.5 Bulk Approval
6.4.1 Mini Bulk 6.5.1 Bulk Fabric Approval

IMPORTANT: A shade band should be submitted on all denim, casual woven and garment DEFINITION: Bulk Fabric - Fabric taken from the first bulk garment wash/dye load.
dyed product where required by the nature of the dye process; i.e indigo or sulphur dye.
Your Tu Fabric Technologist should be consulted for any other dye methods used.
It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that the bulk fabric quality performs to the
Fabric/garments taken from the mini bulk wash load are used to establish the shade band to agreed Tu standards.
ensure subsequent wash loads meet standards for shade agreed with the Buyer and acceptable Bulk fabric that is sent for approval must come from bulk production and be tested to Tu
dry rub levels agreed with the Tu Fabric Technologist. standards as detailed in Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing Performance Tables.
The shade band will show a leg/swatch/garment from the bulk wash indicating the darkest shade
and the lightest shade expected from the entire bulk fabric quantity. 6.5.2 Bulk Fabric Hanger
A Bulk Fabric hanger, washed leg or garment must be sent to the Tu Buyer for approval of colour,
Two copies of the shade band should be submitted; one to Tu Buying (for the approval of wash handle, appearance and weight (to include a production seam). Please send one copy on the Tu
level, shade, handle, appearance and weight) and one to the Tu Fabric Technologist (to confirm fabric hanger header.
colourfastness) on the Tu Fabric Hanger Header.
Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header

Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Guide

The hanger header must be fully completed and signed by the supplier. A weight check must be
taken before submission and a resultant weight indicated on the hanger and specification. The
IMPORTANT: A Dry Rub sample should be attached to each shade and approval gained weight circle should be attached to the fabric hanger.
from the Tu Fabric Technologist.
Appendix: Fabric Hanger Header Guide
Weight must be checked by the supplier at this stage. The weight should be written on the fabric
header and the weight circle attached. Bulk weight must be within -3% to +5% of the weight Bulk weight must be within a tolerance of -3% to +5% of the weight approved at base stage.
approved at base.
When approval is given by the Tu Buyer for colour, handle, appearance and weight, bulk fabric
test results should be submitted to the relevant Testing Technical Support for approval in line
KEY: You may proceed to produce the first garment wash load only when you have approval with the critical path.
from buying and the Tu Fabric Technologist on mini bulk.

IMPORTANT: Bulk fabric is not approved and garment production should not continue
until bulk testing has been approved by the relevant Testing Technical Support .

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Approval Processes - Denim, Washed Casual Woven & Garment Dyed
Denim Bulk Production Approval (continued...)
6.5.3 Bulk Fabric Testing KEY: All test reports must be available for inspection and provided within 24 hours or
request. If we find any deviation from the agreed performance standards set at first bulk,
a product recall may occur, for which the supplier will be liable. The supplier will also be
It is mandatory to test the following on every bulk colourway;
liable for any loss of profit and any other related costs as outlined in the Costs of Non
Compliance.
-- Full colour fastness tests
-- Full physical tests including wash stability Appendix: Conducting Business with Tu Clothing Sainsburys Handbook
-- Promotional Claims
-- Safety and Legal requirements as detailed in the Tu Performance Tables. 6.5.5 Bulk trim fabric testing
A trim fabric that is more than 10% by area of a garment must be tested for full bulk testing.
It is the suppliers responsibility to check the Tu Performance Tables for full testing requirements. All linings and pocket bags are subject to full testing.
Bulk test results are valid for 6 months after which an updated report must be re-submitted for Fabric components that are less than 10% by area of the garment must be risk assessed by the
approval. garment supplier and appropriate testing agreed and completed.
Bulk test requirements for specific styles may be discussed and agreed with the Tu Technologist For all garment components such as belts and buttons, please refer to the Sainsburys Tu Clothing
prior to testing. Garment Manual and Tu Fabric Performance Tables for testing guidelines.
Approval for bulk testing is given by the relevant Testing Technical Support via the Online Testing
System. To gain approval, please see section 7. Appendix: Tu Garment Supplier Manual
Appendix: Tu Clothing Fabric Performance Tables

It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that any changes made during production meet the
agreed quality standards and that notification is given to the buying and technical teams. 6.5.6 Garment Appearance after launder (GAAL) submission reports
Sainsbury’s Tu clothing require a Garment Appearance After Launder (GAAL) on garments with
6.5.4 Testing Subsequent Bulk Production embellishment, print, trims, mixed fabrics or as specifically requested by the Tu Fabric/Garment
Technologist. E.g. High risk garment dye processes (such as pigment dyed) require a GAAL x 3.
Subsequent batches of the same bulk fabric must be tested to Tu standards and kept for internal
In some cases mock samples can be tested earlier in the critical path.
records.

KEY: Approval of all bulk testing must be given before gold seals can be signed off. Failure
IMPORTANT: If the fabric quality is used in another style it is the suppliers responsibility
to follow these procedures which result in delays to the critical path may incur costs which
to ensure that the fabric remains fit for purpose.
are the liability of the supplier.

We will audit your product on a regular basis by checking the product on delivery and in store.

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 Main Index Section Index Sainsbury’s
Online Fabric Approval Process
7.1 Online Fabric Approval Process
It is mandatory that all testing and wash care instructions are submitted for approval via the Tu
Online Testing System.

Submissions via email will not be considered and all correspondence relating to a style must be
added in the comments section on the online style sheet.

As part of your supplier induction, please see the following website to request log in details:

https://tu.sgs.com

Please ensure you receive training on using the system before you submit a user request
otherwise access will not be granted. Your local SGS office will be able to offer training free of
charge.

Please see the following “Online Fabric Approval Process” diagram for basic guidelines on how
to gain approval online. More detailed instructions can be found in the information section on
the Tu Online Testing System.

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Online Fabric Approval Process
7.2 Online Fabric Approval Process Diagram

Base Fabric Approval - Base fabric represents the fabric that will be produced in bulk. Base fabric must be approved by Tu Buying and Technical teams before bulk fabric production commences.

3) Fabric Specification and 5) Approval Confirmation

1) Create Style Sheet 2) Base Test Report
Fabric Hanger
Providing all submissions
Complete all the fields fully. If the Tu Create the test request for the base fabric using the test
Please attach fully completed meet Tu standards, the Tu
style number is not known at this stage request function which automatically generates an ID 4) Submit
fabric specification. Technologist will return the
please leave the Tu style number blank number. Submit to the lab inbox online. Include a hard copy for approval
style sheet to your inbox
and use the design reference box. of the test request form with the fabric/garment. The lab to the
Base Fabric Hanger confirming base approval.
Please then update when the Tu style will upload the test results against the ID number. The test inbox of the
Submit; Additionally, allow 3 working
number is allocated. A separate style results should be reviewed by the supplier before submission Tu Fabric
One hanger to the Tu Buyer days for a response from
sheet must be created per colourway to the Tu Fabric Technologist. Technologist
One hanger to the Tu Fabric receipt of base hanger and
(excludes multiple part sets). only when
Technologist. Hanger header test specimens if required. The
If testing has been conducted on another style, use the stages 1-3
is generated automatically by Buyer will email Base Hanger
Uploading an Image system function to link to the style sheet within 6 months. have been
the system. approval comments separately.
Please ensure your image is completed.
representative of the finished garment Available test reports tested to other retailers standards can
Wash care instructions YOU MAY NOW PROCEED INTO
(including trims/belts/ multipack info be attached in the documentation section. Additional tests
Please select from the list SY BULK FABRIC PRODUCTION
and component details). may be requested by the Tu Fabric Technologist.
code and W Wording.

Bulk Fabric Approval- The actual production fabric in the correct colour

6) Bulk Test Request 9) Gold Seal submission

7) Submit Bulk Fabric Testing
8) Approval Confirmation Please attach a print
Create the test request for the bulk screen shot of the style
Then submit bulk testing for approval to the
fabric using the same process as sheet approval with your
inbox of the relevant Testing Technical Support If all required testing passes,
detailed in the Base Test report section. goldseal. Without this
representative. Please allow 3 working days the Testing Technical Support
Attached test reports cannot and will the gold seal will not
for a response. Highlight any failures for
not be accepted. To achieve optimal representative will approve the style be approved and goods
commercial review and send failed test specimens
approval efficiency it is recommended to cannot be shipped.
immediately to the Testing Technical Support sheet. For any commercial failures the
use one test house per style sheet. Please see the garment
representative. Additionally allow 3 working days Tu Technologist will be consulted.
for a response from receipt of test specimens. manual for further
information.

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Online Fabric Approval Process
7.3 List of Approved Laboratories 7.4 Laboratory Accreditation
Suppliers to Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing are required to use the following preferred laboratory Sainsbury’s Tu have an accreditation programme that assesses suppliers own labs to perform
partners for testing. testing on behalf of Sainsbury’s.
Very preferable rates and service levels have been agreed with each of the testing laboratories
listed. To ensure you receive these rates please ensure that the relevant laboratory is informed To put your laboratory forward for accreditation please contact the Tu Clothing Fabric Technical
that your fabric is for Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing. Please see Appendix for contact details. Manager.
Appendix: Approved Laboratory Contact Details

If the proposal is accepted by Sainsburys then you will receive an application form from SGS and
Preferred laboratories globally an explaination of costs. Please send all completed application forms to:

Calvin Lam
SGS Hong Kong Limited
T +852 2774 7460
F +852 2764 3276
E calvin.lam@sgs.com
www.hk.sgs.com

Preferred laboratories in the UK

All completed applications will then be reviewed by the Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing Fabric Technical
Manager.

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© Sainsbury’s Supermarkets Ltd 2014 Ref: CFM01 Version: 2 Issue number: 1 Date: Sep 2014 Fabric Approval Processes