Week 15

Manufacturing Pharmacy
LABORATORY
LIPSTICK
WEEK 15
Clarriz Anne D. Locquiao, RPh.

Assistant Instructor, Department of Pharmacy
INTRODUCTION
• Lipsticks are one of the most widely used cosmetic products.
Social, psychological, and therapeutic benefits can be attained
from using lipstick
• Current lip care products not only emphasize aesthetic value but
also preferably have added medicinal value to the lip of
consumers.
• Medicated Lipsticks – provide protection against infections of
bacteria due to the presence of an active medicinal ingredient in
the formulation. This function adds on to the existing role of
lipsticks, which provide moisture and emollient action to prevent
cracking and chapping of the lips
• Herbal cosmetics – natural cosmetics. Natural cosmetics not only
provide satisfaction, as these products are free from synthetic
chemicals and have relatively fewer side effects, but also supply
the body with nutrients and enhance health of a person
• On some occasions, regular usage of synthetic products that
contain ingredient such as lead, petrolatum, and phthalates may
be harmful to consumers. These products may cause lip irritations
and dry, chapped lips and can lead to health problem such as
allergies, asthma, and cancer
History of Lipstick
• Generally, the concept and construct of
“cosmeceuticals” was first articulated by
Raymond Reed (1961), the founder of the
US Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
• It originated from the Greek term “kosm
tikos”, which means “decorating talent”.
• Later, in 1984, Albert Kligman used the
word “cosmeceuticals” referring to the
compounds that have both cosmetic and
medicinal properties.
• Lipstick was first discovered as a rough
fragment of brick in ancient Mesopotamia
Ingredients of Lipstick
• Using synthetic-based ingredients of lipsticks may produce a serious
adverse reaction. For example, the presence of lead in lipsticks and
colouring ingredients is one of the most serious issues. Nickel and
copper, two metals commonly found in cosmetics, can trigger allergic
reactions in certain people.
• Common ingredients used to formulate herbal lipsticks: castor oil,
paraffin wax, beeswax, beet root juice, ripe fruit powder of shikakai,
lemon oil, orange essence, and vanilla essence. However, previous
studies indicate that there is a minor difference regarding the
ingredients used in the production of lipsticks.
• Synthetic and natural waxes are a dominant feature of lipstick
fabrication. To generate a sufficient film when the stick is applied to
the lips, the oil combination must blend closely with the waxes
• Paraffin wax is one of the phase change materials. It has a high heat storage capacity, is readily
available, and is inexpensive.
– Two forms of paraffin wax: Microcrystalline wax is opaque, plastic, malleable, and sticky, whereas macrocrystalline wax
is translucent, glossy, slippery, and brittle
• Ozokerite wax is manufactured from coal and shale. It helps to raise the melting point of the stick
– Ceresin wax is also known as mineral wax, and it refers to a type of ozokerite that has been refined using sulphuric
acid.
• Butyl stearate is a useful substance to utilise with castor oil. It works as a partial solvent and possesses
wetting qualities, allowing undissolved dyestuff to disperse finely.
• Lanolin is utilised in cosmetics and topical medications because of its emollient qualities
• Titanium dioxide is used in lipsticks as pigment or to alter the colour of the basic pigments. It has a high
degree of brightness, which could give it a covering power over other white pigments
• The primary colouring elements, as opposed to the staining materials, are insoluble dyestuffs and lake
colours such as calcium, barium, and aluminium lakes.
• Acetoglycerides are blending agents that alter the rheological properties of oils, fats, and waxes in
lipstick formulations. They add plasticity properties to the stick formulations, allowing them to remain
solid in hot weather and to maintain spreadability qualities at low temperatures
• Parabens (PHB) are the most widely used synthetic preservatives in cosmetic products. Contact
dermatitis has been documented as a hypersensitivity reaction to parabens
• Vitamin E has been used in lipstick preparations as an antioxidant
• The phrase “bromo mixture” refers to the component of the product that leaves an
indelible stain, as opposed to the opaque film of colour produced by insoluble
pigments. Bromo mixture is a solution that consists of dyestuff (also known as
bromo acids) for staining in combination with appropriate ingredients.
• The dyestuffs examples are fluoresceins, halogenated fluoresceins, and related
water-insoluble dyes. Bromo acids available in D and C colours are divided into two
groups: red bromo acids that produce a red or reddish-blue stain and orange-red
bromo acids that produce a pink to yellowish-pink stain
• Ripe fruit powder of Shikakai is a medicinal plant from which the fruits of this plant
are used as surfactant in the formulation of lipsticks
• Lemon oil is a colourless or yellow liquid and has a strong scent of lemon. The oil
has an aroma of citrus. It is used for flavouring lemon and exhibits some benefits
such as antioxidant, anti-aging, and antimicrobial properties that are effective for
bacterial and fungal infections
Method of Preparation
Lipstick production varies very slightly depending on the type of ingredients used. The moulding
method may be suggested as a standard procedure for the preparation of lipsticks
Waxes were represented in phase A, dyestuff and other oils were represented in phase B, and
preservatives and other additives were represented in phase C. The author heated up phase A to
80 °C, then phase B ingredients were added one by one to phase A. The mixture of phase A and B
was removed from heat, and phase C was added and then poured in the lipstick moulds

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Manufacturing Pharmacy

Clarriz Anne D. Locquiao, RPh.

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