Virginia's Origin Story
Virginia's Origin Story
Virginia's Origin Story
A
s I drive across the towering George meeting Machicomoco
P. Coleman Memorial Bridge to I’m road-tripping to Machicomoco State Park,
Gloucester Point, the York River looks Virginia’s newest state park. An Algonquin tribal word,
intimidating, a powerful waterway Machicomoco means “special meeting place.” The
pouring into the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. riverfront property provides something visitors can’t
What would it have been like 400 years ago, find elsewhere: the most complete look at Virginia’s
I wonder, when Pocahontas or her father, Chief story through the eyes of its original inhabitants.
Powhatan, paddled these deep tidal waters in a “Never in its existence has the commonwealth
dugout canoe? designated a site so replete with rich native histo-
This river was certainly familiar to the famous ry as Machicomoco,” said Stephen R. Adkins, chief
daughter and father. They lived upstream and of the Chickahominy tribe, at the park’s opening
would undoubtedly have explored the shoreline, ceremony last spring. “This offers just a unique, un-
likely visiting my destination today: a tiny peninsu- precedented opportunity to tell those stories that
la not far from the bridge. have been held hostage so long.”
The small American Indian community who re- Indeed, I don’t remember learning much about
sided there grew corn, beans, and squash, and har- the state’s original Native Americans from my
vested oysters from the waters that surrounded fourth-grade Virginia history class. I’m happy the
their home. Archaeological evidence suggests peo- park is giving me another chance.
ple had been inhabiting the area for 10,000 years. The 645-acre preserve was developed in consul-
Today, the land is once again a center for Native tation with the 11 Native American tribes recognized
American life. by the state of Virginia: the Chickahominy, Eastern
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LARRY BLEIBERG; COURTESY VIRGINIA STATE PARKS (2)
the Powhatan “It’s very different, it’s not 1 or 2 signs,” said ing a tidal inlet. In front of me, a timeline of en-
Confederacy.
Howells. “It’s solely based around the stories of graved stones covering 20,000 years of history
Native Americans and how they want to tell their runs across the ground for hundreds of feet.
stories and history.” The story of Machicomoco, I learn, begins in
Finding Machicomoco, though, proves a little 18,000 BC during the last Ice Age, which creat-
tricky. I turn off busy US 17 and follow a county ed the Tidewater river systems that shaped Native
road by farms and rural homes. Just as I begin to American life here.
wonder if I’m lost, nearing what feels like a gated Walking the timeline, I see the American Indian
community, I pull up to what I hope is the park’s story unfold. Thousands of years later, hunter-
entrance booth. (Spoiler alert: It was.) gatherers began to appear in coastal Virginia,
As I learn, we are lucky even to have a park. eventually forming large settlements in the
More than a decade ago, the land was sold to Chesapeake floodplains. Then came contact with
developers, who built the entrance building, a Europeans, beginning with Spanish missionaries
floating dock, and a 3-mile ring road for a lux- in 1570, leading to wars with the British, forcible
ury subdivision. But the developer faced finan- removal from land, and, finally, centuries later, the
cial challenges, and before ground was broken on park’s dedication.
homes, a private foundation purchased the land Along the way, I pass native plants like sage,
at the museum include a dugout canoe, ancient stone mission church. Exhibits include pottery, baskets, beadwork, and
points, and a treaty signed with the English in 1677. Open by photographs. Open Tuesday to Saturday. Call for appointment.
appointment. (804) 843-4792; pamunkey.org. (434) 946-5391; monacannation.com/ancestral-museum.html.