14-Bolt Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
14-Bolt Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
14-Bolt Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
Introduction
This article is a compilation of information and and specs relating to the venerable GM Corporate 14
Bolt full-floating rear axle - also referred to as the 10.5" (after the size of the ring gear in inches) or
just simply the "14b" for short.
There are other 14b axles out there - a 9.5" ring gear semi-float for one, and even a 11.5" ring gear
full-float version. This article is not about them.
A range of US Military trucks over the years have been equipped with the 14-Bolt rear axle,
including the Commercial Utility Cargo Vehicle or "CUCV".
The US Military also produces, free of copyright restrictions, manuals for these vehicles. Normally,
the manuals come in large volume sets comprising hundreds of pages covering every aspect of
the vehicle.
So that you do not have to wade through all this data to find information on the 14-Bolt rear axle, I
extracted only the relevant information and compiled it all into a single 14-Bolt Manual in .pdf
format.
The 14bolt is found in a huge number of GM 4x4 pickup trucks and vans, 3/4 and 1 ton, from the
70's right through until at least the 2000's. You can find it in:
As well as a whole lot more cab and chassis trucks, delivery vans, etc.
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It is most easily distinguished by its huge, uniquely shaped diff cover that is, of course, held on
with 14 bolts.
It is also fairly easily distinguished from other 1 ton full-float rear axles by the removable pinion
support, that can be clearly seen just behind the pinion yoke in this picture.
Being a full-float (FF) axle means it has full-floating wheel hubs and axle shafts. I simply love full-
float axles, and would never go back to running anything but a FF axle, for the following very good
reasons:
The axle shaft does not support the weight of the vehicle, but merely transmits torque.
Because of the above, FF axle shafts are not subject to bending loads like semi float (SF)
axles are and can therefore be made of harder materials making them capable of carrying
greater torque loads
If you should ever break a rear FF axle shaft, you will not loose the wheel too.
If you need to change a FF rear axle, it is extremely easy and simple to do.
The hubs run big, strong, common, reasonably cheap wheel bearings, races, and seals
(14b, Dana 60 and Dane 70 bearings, front and rear, are all the same).
The wheel bearings are not pressed onto anything. If need be they can be removed and
replaced with nothing more than a screwdriver and big hammer.
Before we delve deeper into the 14bolt, let's just talk about why this is such an awesome axle. It has a number of distinct features /
advantages:
Gear strength - 10.5" ring gear, 1.750" 30 spline pinion, huge 2 piece carrier made of 8620 Heat treated alloy steel, extra pinion bearing
support.
Shaft strength - 1.5" 30-spline full-floating shafts.
Housing strength - massive cast iron center section, 3.25" x 0.5" tubes (not all, varies by year and application).
Comes in two widths - 63" and 67" wms-wms, easily converted from one to the other (that axle shafts are common to both, it is the
different hubs that account for the different widths, and these are easily interchanged).
Removable pinion support, unbolts from the rest of housing, makes for easier gear setup.
Diff housing has built-in threaded carrier preload adjusters, makes for easier gear setup.
Because the carrier is so large and strong, a "full" Detroit locker fits in the stock housing, and is therefore easy to install without gear
setup changes, and is much cheaper than other 1 ton FF lockers.
Pinion yokes commonly available for 1350 and 1410 series U-joints.
Fairly commonly came stock with 4.10 and 4.56 gears and sometimes factory Detroit Lockers.
Cheap and easy to find, buy, and build.
Easy to convert to disc brakes.
Easy to "shave" for 2" inch gain in ground clearance.
Pinion length shorter than other 1 ton full-float rear axles (like the Dana 60 & Dana 70), for improved driveshaft length and angles.
Large ID spindles.
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Shares common spindle-nut threads with Dana 60 front axle, meaning only one style of spindle nut and socket need be used / carried.
Overall, I think they are a superb choice for a heavy duty off-road machine. The following quote from " H8Monday" (a rock crawling competitor
and devout throttle-crazy maniac who runs a 14b behind a very healthy 5.0.) sums things up nicely:
"One of the best things about the 14-Bolt, other than they are dirt cheap and nearly indestructible, is the cost of building them. It is
very common to find them with 4.56 gears, and often axle shops and junk yards will have used factory sets. They are very easy to
set up, because they have an adjustable backlash. Spare axle shafts are nearly free, and the shafts are the same for the C&C or
standard version. Not that spares are usually necessary with a 1.69" axle shaft diameter, (splines are 30). But, the best thing is,
because the stock carrier is a monstrous hunk of an assembly, you do not change the carrier [when installing] a Detroit [locker],(its
basically a massive lunch box locker). So a Detroit only costs about $325 (and that's if you don't shop around). My disk brake
conversion didn't cost over $150 ($40 each for rotors, $40 for loaded calipers, plus about $20 for brake lines). I had about $1000
into my entire 14 build-up, including cost of the axle, gears, locker, disc brakes, and new lug nuts. Not bad for a full floater, rear
axle with discs, 4.56 gears and a Detroit."
This pic is a closer look at the hub and wheel bearing / spindle hardware (with the brake disc or
drum removed, looking at it from the back side [inside]). Note that the spindle threads are the
same as for Dana 60 front and rear axles and Dana 70 rear axles. This means that all the different
styles of spindle nuts (4 slot, 6 slot, hex, rounded hex) and lock washers can all be interchanged.
Part numbers for the spindle hardware shown, from left to right are:
Watch out for this when you go to remove the wheel hub outer bearing and race. The bearing
does not simply fall out of the end of the hub on most FF axles - its OD keeps it captive. Instead, a
snap ring in the hub, accessible from the back of the hub (yellow arrows) needs to be removed so
the wheel bearing can come out the back.
Blue arrows show corrosion, indicating requirement for replacement bearings and races.
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Take the cover off, and you discover the massive 2-piece carrier and 10.5" ring gear.
The bearing caps have small integrated locking devices that serve to lock the carrier preload
adjusters into place.
These pics are of the carrier removed. Mine is fully welded up making it a huge spool. I have read about some folks just welding the spider /
side gears by filing in the valley's between the teeth and then reinstalling them. I personally have never understood this. It's not as if you need
to save the carrier, since they are cheap and extremely plentiful. Also, I would think that in this manner, those welds would see quite a bit of
shock loading. It's also a real bugger to reassemble the carrier and gears after you have just welded up the teeth and are trying to save the
carrier.
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Close-up of pinion support bearing. The actual proper name for this is the "straddle bearing".
Housing.
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They are a large 30 spline axle. However, the pressure angle on the splines is not the same as
other manufacturers (Dana, for example).
The following pics, courtesy of Benny "Bigger Valves" Langford and Clay "yotacowboy" Moulton, illustrate an alternate method of retaining the
wheel bearings in the 14-Bolt. For the record, the axle shown here is from an '87 1 ton Chevy V30 (crewcab, 4x4, 350 tbi engine).
It's a very simple setup that consists of one hub nut, one key, and one clip-ring. The nut accepts
the regular 6-prong 14-Bolt socket and has 6 square grooves around its inner diameter. These
grooves are what you line up with the spindle groove to make the key way, as shown here.
To adjust the bearings, tighten the hub nut down until the the correct preload is achieved (see the
.pdf manual at the start of this article if you are not sure how to do this), and then tighten the nut
further until the next groove in the nut lines up with the spindle groove.
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This pic shows the clip-ring and the small rectangular key.
Once the preload is adjusted and the grooves in the nut and spindle are lines up, simply slide the
key in the key way and put on the clip ring.
The clip-ring has a curved end that fits in the spindle groove to securely block the key from
backing out. The clip is very thin and flimsy which makes it easy to remove with just a screwdriver
and allows it to fit snugly around the spindle in the threads.
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GM 14-Bolt Specs
(all data for single-rear-wheel (SRW) truck 14-Bolt axle - others may vary).
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(inches)
Axle Shaft Engaged Spline
Length long side 1.569"
(inches)
Axle Tube Dimensions
3-3/8" x 0.5" thick (varies depending on year and application).
(inches)
Spring Perch Span and
Width (1980 1 Ton 4x4, SRW, non Cab and Chassis) 42.5" x 2.5"
(inches)
Axle Shaft Length Right 37-5/8"
(inches) Left 31-5/8"
Axle Shaft Diameter @ splines 1.54", @ neckdown 1.367", operating diameter 1.351"
(inches) @ flange 1.458" 30 splines
Axle Flange Bolt Pattern 8 on 3.523", 1/2" holes, bolts are 1/2-NC13x1.5"
Pinion Yoke U-joint Strap
7/16 " head, 1.296" x 5/16-NF24
Bolts
Diff Cover Bolts Fourteen (14) 3/8-NC16 x 3/4"
Ring Gear Bolts Twelve (12) 9/16-NF18
Pinion Nut Size 1.5"
Axle shaft to Hub bolts 3/4" head, 1/2-NC13, approx. 1.5" long
Truck Lingo
When talking about truck, especially with respect t rear axles, we often use the terms SRW, DRW, C&C, and WMS. Here's what they mean:
SRW stands for "Single Rear Wheel" and refers to a truck that has a single wheel on each end of
its rear axle. Your average pickup truck is a SRW truck with a SRW axle.
DRW stands for "Dual Rear Wheel" and refers to a truck that has two wheels on each end of its
rear axle.
One-ton, heavy-duty pickup trucks are sometimes DRW and are often referred to as "Dually's".
© GM Company.
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C&C stands for "Cab and Chassis" which refers to a truck configuration that is sold without a "box"
on the back. It is, literally, just a cab and a chassis (frame), like the one shown here.
This is a Chevy C-class C&C truck (so bigger than a one-ton pickup, and it wouldn;t have a 14-
Bolt rear axle but the pic clearly illustrates the "C&C" concept.
C&C trucks are sold commercially for use as work trucks to customers who need to fit their own
specialized bodies such as service trucks, welding trucks, wreckers, and small dump trucks.
As they are intended for heavy-duty work trucks, C&C trucks almost always also have dual rear
wheels.
This is Chevy C3500 HD one-ton C&C truck fitted with a small dump box.
© GM Company.
WMS stands for "Wheel Mounting Surface". So when we refer to the width of an axle in terms of WMS-WMS we mean the distance between
the wheel mounting surfaces (on the hubs). We do this to eliminate the variables of wheel width, wheel offset, and tire width which, if not
eliminated, would make for an almost infinite number of possible widths.
*CAUTION* - With this axle, as indeed with all things "axle" - there are no hard and fast laws - for every "fact" I shall present, I know there's at
least one person out there, possibly many, who claim they own or know of exceptions. This is very likely true, and is due to the way in which
OEM vehicle construction occurs. This variability and ambiguity is just a fact of life and unfortunately cannot be avoided or completely
resolved.
What follows is what I believe to be true, or the most correct, information based on the research I have done and the letters I have received
from what I judge to be the most reputable sources. Use the data with caution - "your mileage may vary" as they saying goes.
14-Bolts can be broken down into 4 broad groups. There is also at least one year break that brings minor changes, but this is in fact far less
significant than the "type" of 14-Bolt axle in question.
Once again - this article is concerned only with GM 14-Bolt full-float rear drive axles. With that said, the following table attempts to capture the
data.
SRW 67.5" 3-3/8" / 0.5" Single rear wheel trucks Type A Type 1
DRW 72" 3.5" / 0.5" Dual rear wheel trucks Type B Type 2
C&C 63.5" 3.5" / 0.5" Cab and chassis trucks Type B Type 1
* Note that these names (or designations) are of my own invention. They are not the official designations used by the manufacturer.
Unfortunately, I do not know what the official designations are, or I wold have used them. So, don't call up your local junkyard and ask if they
have a 14-Bolt with "Type B" hubs and "Type 1" shafts - they will look at you funny (yes, even over the phone!) I have simply invented and
used these terms to help illustrate the differences and similarities between the different axle types that are out there.
Notes:
The width of the housings and the length of the shafts used in the SRW and C&C axles are the same. The reason they are different
widths WMS-WMS is because of the difference in the hubs used (see below for different hub types). The housings are actually identical
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except for the location of the backing plate flange (except axle tube OD and thickness may vary slightly with year and application). The
brake drums & hubs are different, but the backing plates, brake shoes, and wheel cylinders are the same.
The SRW and Van axles use the same hubs.
The C&C and DRW axles use the same hubs.
Though different, the Type A (SRW/Van) hubs and the Type B (C&C/DRW) hubs can be interchanged. Doing so will result in a change to
the axle's WMS-WMS as follows:
Swapping Type A hubs onto where Type B hubs used to be will cause an increase in axle width WMS-WMS.
Swapping Type B hubs onto where Type A hubs used to be will cause a reduction in axle width WMS-WMS.
See section below for pics of the different types of hubs to see why this is so.
If it helps, you can think of the C&C axle as a hybrid of the SRW and DRW axles. It uses the housing and shafts of the SRW axle fitted
with the hubs of the DRW axle. This accounts for why it is the narrowest axle measured WMS-WMS (which in turn is why it is often
highly sought-after for swapping into smaller 4x4s like Jeeps and buggies.
C&C and DRW brakes are the same.
In all cases one side axle-shaft is shorter than the other and pinions are centered.
1350 appears to be the only available stock pinion yoke, but aftermarket 1410 yokes are available (see the XXX article for details).
1-ton pickup trucks feature 40.5" leaf spring perch spacing - whether SRW or DRW.
C&C axles feature 36" leaf spring perch spacing.
3/4-ton leaf spring perch spacing is 42.5" spacing. \
Wheel studs went metric for the 88-up C/K trucks, and 96-up vans
Front 60 and rear 14b spindles have the same bearing spacing and same bearing journal sizes. The seal journal diameter is different
The flat, machined flange you see here (through which the wheel studs are poking) is the wheel
mounting surface or WMS we keep referring too.
Notice how short the central part of the hub that sticks out past the WMS is.
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Notice how much longer the central part of the hub that sticks out past the WMS is, compared to
the Type A hub, above.
This picture is taken with the two hubs sitting on the bench simulating the position they would each
be in when mounted on the spindle.
You can clearly see the higher height of the WMS of the Type A hub on the left that translates into
the wider WMS-WMS width of an axle fitted with Type A hubs compared to one fitted with Type B
hubs.
Different Years
The year split is '72-88 (so-called "first design") and 89+ (so-called "second-design). Of course, there may be variations. Differences between
these years are noted below. Where the difference is known only to apply to certain "types", I shall indicate this.
When working on a 14-Bolt axle, the biggest difference between the first and second design to be aware of is the different bearings used in the
diff.
The wheel bearings, pinion seal, and front pinion bearing are common to both first- and second-design axles.
The first-design axle uses a different rear pinion bearing than the second-design axle.
And the really confusing part is that the first-design and second-design axles use the same pinion straddle bearing EXCEPT for the 1984-1985
first-design axles which use a different straddle bearing from all the rest.
Perhaps the best way to explain this is to simply list the part numbers.
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This picture illustrates the heavily ribbed centre section of the second design 14-Bolt housing
(ignore the red arrow).
One thing though, is that when you swap from drums to discs, the wheel studs are usually no longer long enough because they have to pass
through the disc and the hub (that's how the disc is held to the hub).
Over the years there has been much discussion and experimentation with using different wheel studs, with different folks reporting different
levels of satisfaction with different options. As far as I know there has never been a universally accepted one perfect solution, but the following
data I consider quite reliable and should at least allow you to narrow down some choices with which to experiment to achieve a level of
satisfaction you are comfortable with.
No parts store I have ever tried, from NAPA to Car Quest ever has them.
That leaves only the GM dealership, where the strap (GM p/n: 3920486) will set you back $3
EACH! and the bolts (GM p/n: 458300 or 14018700) another $2 EACH.
As for all the local and big chain parts stores - they will all gladly sell you a "strap kit" for a "1-ton
GM rear axle" or "GM 10.5" rear end" or a "14-Bolt full floater" or a "1980 Chevy K30 1 ton 4x4 " or
whatever else you have to say to them to get one - but, in my experience (NAPA, Car Quest,
Canadian Tire, and a couple of local independents) they are all WRONG, and it won't fit at all.
The top strap is the one the parts stores will sell you, the bottom the GM part.
In any case - the stock straps are weak and badly designed - very soon they end up looking like
this.
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Complete junk!!
Fortunately - there is a solution - and a very cool one at that - read all about it - the High Angle Driveline 1410 Pinion Yoke kit
The following pics illustrate the nicest case of the later, more extreme, shaving job that I have come across. It is the work of Phil Jensen, from
Ottawa, Canada.
The piece cut from the diff housing. Phil used an abrasive wheel/blade in a circular saw to start,
and finished with a reciprocating saw. Starett blades are reportedly good for this.
After the cut of the housing, this is the carrier back in place, before it was machined down. It was
then removed and approx. 1/4" machined from the OD of the ring gear. This did not effect the
performance or durability of the gear set at all.
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The 1/2" thick mild steel plate that was TIG welded to the housing.
Just over 2" of clearance was gained. That's the same (at the diff) as going from 35" to 39" tires!!
Originally, Phil made a quick cover by altering a stock cover. It didn't last well enough for his liking, so in the end he constructed a complete
custom cover from 3/8" plate steel, which has reportedly held up very well. Unfortunately, I have no pictures of the later cover, but here are
some of the original.
From the research I have done (I have no personal practical experience) the methods that have been used successfully for trimming the OD of
a ring gear for a radical shave job are:
Abrasive grinder
Diamond-tip on lathe
Ceramic inserts on lathe
Wire EDM
I believe the preferred method is the wire EDM. Here's what engineersedge.com has to say about EDM.
EDM is one of the most accurate manufacturing processes available for creating complex or simple shapes and geometries. EDM works
by eroding material in the path of electrical discharges that form an arc between an electrode tool and the work piece. EDM
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manufacturing is quite affordable and a very desirable manufacturing process when low counts or high accuracy is required. Turn
around time can be fast and depends on manufacturer back log.
The EDM system consists of a shaped tool, an electrode, and the part. The part is connected to a power supply. To create a potential
difference between the work piece and tool, the work piece is immersed in a dielectric (electrically nonconducting) fluid which is
circulated to flush away debris. The cutting pattern is usually CNC controlled. Many EDM machine electrodes can rotate about two-
three axis allowing for cutting of internal cavities. This makes EDM a highly capable manufacturing process. EDM comes in two basic
types: wire and probe (sinker). Wire EDM is used primarily for shapes cut out of a flat sheet or plate. With a wire EDM machine, if a hole
needs to be created, an initial hole must first be drilled in the material. Then the wire can be fed through the hole to complete the
machining. Sinker (probe) EDMs are generally used for complex geometries where "line of sight" is not thru/straight or very small pieces
where conventional milling is not practical or very difficult due to the hardness of the material-such as cast and heat treated tooling.
Probe EDM can cut a hole into the part without having a hole pre-drilled for the electrode. Design Considerations
Relax the surface-finish for the part, if feasible. This allows the manufacturer to produce the part with fewer passes, at a higher
current level and a higher metal-removal rate. Design the part such that the amount of stock removed by EDM is relatively small.
Use traditional machining techniques to remove the bulk of the stock with the finishing operations performed by EDM. This
significantly reduces the amount of time and cost for each part. The EDM manufacturer should consider fixturing such that several
parts can be stacked and machined simultaneously or a single part can have several EDM operations performed simultaneously.
When existing holes are to be enlarged or reshaped by EDM, through holes are preferred to blind holes as they permit easier flow
of dielectric fluid past the area being machined
Surface Finish (micro inches) Features created by EDM have an "orange peal" appearance.
32 RMS is achievable, 64 or higher RMS is typical. Wall Thickness
Min Wall Thickness (inches): 0.01 (over a 5" inch span)
Depth
Significant depths can be obtained with wire EDM, probe EDM does have depth and access limitations dependant on machine
capabilities. Consult with EDM manufacturer for specifics.
14-Bolt Disc Brakes V2. A new and more complete look at converting a 14-Bolt to
disc brakes, including weld-on and bolt-on brackets, a larger calliper option, and a
detailed look at wheel stud and wheel nut options.
ARB RD114 14-Bolt Air Locker Install. A mini-bible on ARB air lockers, including
installation tips and techniques and a large FAQ section.
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14-Bolt Disc Brake Conversion. Detailed look at how I added disc brakes to the
GM Corp. 14-Bolt rear axle in the Wolf. Procedure can be used for other rear axles
too (D60, D70, etc). Contains hints and tips on other axles. Includes detailed part
numbers. Also contains excerpts from Military 14-Bolt maintenance manual on
axle shaft R&R and wheel bearing R&R and adjustment.
14-Bolt 1410 Yoke Install. How to cure the 14-Bolt of it's Achilles Heel weak link!
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Hub Seal Inner cup Inner Cone Outer Cup Outer cone
Interchange Interchange Interchange Interchange
Mfr Mfr Mfr Mfr Interchange
Number Number Number Number
Number
Mfr
14116 FELTPR 0009813580KZ M-BENZ 10X15157 WHITE 1331928200 ARAMCO
15527652 GM 0009814581KZ M-BENZ 1331445600 ARAMCO 287066 NEWHOL 1331928500 ARAMCO
2081 ABI 053146 RIV 181267 WABCO 2953549 CHRYSL 2825729 CHRYSL
2081 TIMKEN 105497H IHC 206087M1 MASSEY 2955374 CHRYSL 2852729 CHRYSL
2081 DELCO 10578 A-C 218285 A-C 364462C1 IHC 2852729 GM
2081 L&S 107845A WHITE 2182855 A-C 431667C1 IHC 2953550 CHRYSL
211587937 GARLOK 10A7292 WHITE 243146 RIV 4TLM104911A NTN 364463C91 IHC
2620286 DELCO 111E050032 AM 319014 AUSTIN 565918 SPICER 431668C91 IHC
28426 C-R 111E0500321 AM 327195R91 IHC 7451813 GM 4TLM104949 NTN
29112 DELCO 1331442400 ARAMCO 387AS NTN 8128842 AMC 5357401 AMC
3680994 GM 142223 GM 387AS TIMKEN 9428539 GM 565905 SPICER
3686563 GM 149505 MACK 49030 NEWHOL C7TA1239A FORD 591651C91 IHC
37222 SPICER 150805 JEFREY 49X50209A DEERE C7TZ1239A FORD 7451814 GM
3742583 GM 167717C1 IHC 4T387AS NTN LM104911 NTN 8128841 AMC
3743202 GM 195521M1 MASSEY 565906 SPICER LM104911 TIMKEN 929742 A-C
3828916 GM 195525M1 MASSEY 613862C91 IHC 9428909 GM
3883386 GM 196068M1 MASSEY 826926C91 IHC C7TA1240A FORD
3909063 STEMCO 1AE0334 WHITE 9436882 GM C7TZ1240A FORD
3929063 STEMCO 20641 EATON 9500172 JOY FLM104949 SEAL-P
3974847 GM 207234H1 IHC 95X387AS JOY J5357401 CHRYSL
41X10836A DEERE 212037 A-C A629826 GERLIN JD9070 DEERE
455511 NATION 2150007 GOODMN C5NNA767A FORD LM104949 NTN
46203 TROSTL 2150007 WABCO C7TZ1244A FORD LM104949 TIMKEN
469694 GM 3010578 A-C F387AS SEAL-P LM104949JX2 NTN
48287 DANA 30105787 A-C JD8147 DEERE
49552 VICTOR 313037 AUSTIN
49552SF VICTOR 354T5 WHITE
51X7937 GARLOK 382A NTN
60964 VICTOR 382A TIMKEN
63X7937 GARLOK 384350R1 IHC
84503 FITZGE 388533R1 IHC
A215F964 R-S 392689R1 IHC
A56401S L&S 3950457 GOODMN
A56401S TROSTL 45733 HYSTER
BH1290E NOK 471489 WABCO
BH1290E1 NOK 49029 NEWHOL
GS1360 AURORA 4T382A NTN
T2586 CHRYSL 516149E WHITE
T28425 CHRYSL 520013 GEHL
T55511 TROSTL 545905 EATON
Total:
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