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    Grain Lines in Garment Pattern

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    Kawsar Akhtar
    The document discusses grain lines in garment patterns. Grain lines refer to how a pattern is cut relative to the warp and weft threads of the fabric. The straight grain is most commonly used and runs vertically on garments. The bias grain runs at a 45 degree angle and makes the fabric more flexible.

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    Grain Lines in Garment Pattern

    Uploaded by

    Kawsar Akhtar
    24 views2 pages
    The document discusses grain lines in garment patterns. Grain lines refer to how a pattern is cut relative to the warp and weft threads of the fabric. The straight grain is most commonly used and runs vertically on garments. The bias grain runs at a 45 degree angle and makes the fabric more flexible.

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    The document discusses grain lines in garment patterns. Grain lines refer to how a pattern is cut relative to the warp and weft threads of the fabric. The straight grain is most commonly used and runs vertically on garments. The bias grain runs at a 45 degree angle and makes the fabric more flexible.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    24 views2 pages

    Grain Lines in Garment Pattern

    Uploaded by

    Kawsar Akhtar
    The document discusses grain lines in garment patterns. Grain lines refer to how a pattern is cut relative to the warp and weft threads of the fabric. The straight grain is most commonly used and runs vertically on garments. The bias grain runs at a 45 degree angle and makes the fabric more flexible.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 2

    K.

    Akhtar

    Grain lines in garment pattern

    Grain lines are a generally unnoticed aspect of the garment, that is until they are either used in
    the wrong way and cause a fit problem or used in interesting ways to mould the fabric to the
    body. Sometimes they can also be used to turn a print onto a different angle for interesting
    visual effect. The terms grain line or grainline are often used interchangeably.

    When fashion designers and pattern makers talk about grain lines they are referring to the way
    that a pattern is cut out when it is laid out on a piece of fabric. Basically, fabric is woven from
    thread going in two different directions and it is sometimes easiest to remember that fabric is
    built on tiny squares of threads which criss-cross each other.

    The warp thread runs up and down while the weft thread runs right to left. The reason why
    these threads are important to the grainline is that they each react in different ways. For
    example, the warp thread is generally the stronger of the two and is the least likely to stretch
    out of shape. So for example on the straight front placket of a shirt, you don’t want it to go out
    of shape so if you align it with the strongest threads then it will hold its shape better.
    Grain line

    THE STRAIGHT GRAIN


    The straight grain is the grain used most often in garments. The straight grain generally runs
    up the centre front and centre back of garments and up through the centre of sleeves and pant
    legs. In situations where a garment is cut slightly off grain, this may cause sleeves or pant legs
    to twist around the body. You often see this as a problem in cheap t-shirts because the fabric
    weave does not hold a solid grid pattern, making the fabric hard to cut correctly and causing
    the garment to be made up out of pieces which are off grain.

    On areas such as waistbands which hold tension, you want the strongest thread to run around
    the body so you would cut your waistband patterns following the straight grain, ie parallel to
    the selvedge. The selvedge is the band of more tightly woven fabric that runs up either side of
    the fabric meterage. If you imagine the fabric being woven on a loom then these are the edges
    where the thread turns back on itself to begin weaving the next row.

    THE BIAS GRAIN


    In contrast to the straight grain, you can also design garments which use the grain on a 45-
    degree angle, this is called bias cut. This effectively means that of that tiny weave of fabric
    you are going diagonally across the squares and making the fabric much more unstable. But
    while unstable sounds like a negative it can sometimes be what you need for a garment. It
    creates the ideal flexibility for creating bias cut dresses where you need the fabric to mould
    better to the body and will probably allow for less darts.

    You always need to be careful of how different grain lines affect each other when they meet at
    seams though, as sometimes seams can stretch when cut at a strange angle or on different
    grains to each other and this can cause puckering.

    On patterns, the grain line (or grainline) is usually marked with a line with arrows on it,
    shown in the figure above.

    When cutting out, the pattern will be laid with the grain line (or grainline) parallel to the
    sleeve

    In terms of sewing, a reference to the grain of the fabric indicates how the fabric should be cut so
    that the lengthwise yarns will be parallel to the length of the body for better fit and drape; i.e.
    The lengthwise grains are cut so that they run vertically on the garment/body, and the crosswise
    grain runs horizontally across the body.

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