UNIT 1

FABRIC PREPARATION AND LAYOUT PLANNING

Introduction:
Most fabrics are generally constructed grain perfect. When the lengthwise and crosswise grains are running at
right angles to each other, it is termed as on- grain. Nevertheless, during some of the finishing processes like
dyeing, printing, the fabrics may become off-grain. When the lengthwise and crosswise grains are not at
right angle to each other, it is called as off-grain. If such a fabric is used in constructing the garments, the
garments may stretch and sag. Garments made from off-grain fabrics will not fit correctly and will hang poorly
when worn and willsag.
To avoid these problems, a fabric that is on-grain should be selected for garment construction. Even if the
fabric is off-grain on purchase, there are ways of straightening the grain.
Various processes of preparing a fabric for cutting:
All fabrics that are to be sewn have to be prepared by following the steps outlined
below:
Step 1: Preshrinking and removing extra surface finishes
Soak all cottons, preferably overnight, before cutting as they are likely to shrink. This happens
because the warp yarns are stretched tight during weaving. Shrinking relaxes these yarns. Also, it is better to
shrink it in the fabric stage rather than the garment stage as the garment may not fit the wearer after wash. If
the selvage has shrunk during preshrinking, it may have to be clipped every few inches so that the fabric will
lay flat.
To preshrink dry-cleanable fabrics use a steam iron and move the iron horizontally or
vertically across the grain of the fabric. Do not go over it diagonally because this will distort the fabric. After
steaming the fabric allow it to dry on a smooth, flat surface until completely dry. (About 4-6 hours).
Other notions such as zippers and trims may also need preshrinking.
In addition, most fabrics have excess finish in the form of starch which should be removed. If not, it may
result in skipped stitches during the sewing process and accumulation of dirt in the sewing machine, causing
the machine to malfunction.
Step 2 : Making the fabric thread perfect in the crosswise direction
To make the fabric thread perfect, select one of the following methods:
(a) For woven fabric, pull a crosswise yarn then cut along the pulled yarn.
 (b) For knit fabric, baste along a crosswise course.
(c) For slippery fabrics, pin along a crosswise yarn, removing the pins as you cut along the line.

Both cut ends/crosswise/weft of the fabric should be made thread perfect.

Selvedge edges are thread perfect and do not require this process.
Step 3 : Making the fabric piece perfect
Fabric that has been pulled off grain during the final finishing process must be corrected and set on grain. Fabrics
that have been heat-set off grain cannot be made piece perfect. To set the fabric on grain,
(a) Stretching the fabric in bias direction
The woven fabric is held at the opposite ends and pulled diagonally. This helps in realigning the lengthwise and
crosswise grains. When done in damp condition, it gives best results.
A knit can be made grain perfect, while it is damp by patting it into position.
To make a woolen fabric grain perfect, lay the fabric on a wet sheet and fold it up. Let fabric stay for 8 to 12
hours to allow the fabric to become damp. Unfold. Remove the fabric from the sheet. Lay it on a flat surface.
Position the fabric gently by pulling and smoothing it on-grain. Let fabric dry overnight.
(b) Drawn thread method: Loosely woven fabrics or fabrics with prominent crosswise yarns can be cut straight
along the visible crosswise yarn. In case of firmly woven fabrics, pull a thread and then cut along the pulled
space. An- other quicker way is to tear off the fabric by clipping the selvage. For sheer fabrics and
fabrics that fray, clip the selvedge, and then gently pull one cross- wise yarn so that it causes a puckered
line. Now cut carefully along the puckered line.
If the fabric is flat without wrinkles, and the crosswise and lengthwise edges are at right angles, then it is ready to be
cut.
By following the above steps before cutting the material one can get a more professional look in the finished
garment.
Grain and its importance in clothing construction

Grain is the direction of the yarns in a fabric. Grain can be lengthwise grain, crosswise grain, and bias. Grain
is very important when constructing garments since it determines how a garment will hang, fit and appear.
All fabrics that are made up of yarns have grain or direction. Technically, the term grain only refers to
woven fabric while the term direction is frequently used with knit fabrics.
All fabrics made from yarns are ‘grain perfect’ after knitting and weaving. Looms and knitting machines
construct fabrics in a grain perfect manner. However, a fabric can become off-grain during the processes of
finishing (dyeing, printing, permanent finishing, and/or packaging, winding onto a bolt). Garments that are
not cut and sewn according to the fabric grain can stretch in places they should not, have sagging hems and
be uncomfortable to wear. Patterns are specifically designed with grain in mind so that the body can take
 advantage of the amount of stretch or lack of give in the fabric.
1. Woven Fabric
The lengthwise yarns (sometimes called the warp) run parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. They are usually
more tightly twisted, stronger, and more stable than the crosswise yarns.
2. Selvage – the firm edge along the lengthwise direction of a woven fabric.
The crosswise yarns (sometimes called the woof, weft, or filling) are perpendicular, or at right angles to the
selvage. They are woven under and over one or more yarns to create the fabric. These yarns are usually
somewhat more loosely twisted and weaker than the lengthwise yarns.
3. Bias is any diagonal direction on a fabric. The fabric will ‘give’ or stretch.
4. True bias is the 45-degree angle or middle between the crosswise and lengthwise grain. Fold the fabric so
lengthwise and crosswise yarns lie on top of and parallel to each other. This is where a woven fabric will
have the greatest stretch. True bias is used for bindings, facings, pipings, folds, cords etc. It equally severs
both warp and woof threads.
5. On grain print is a fabric wherein the prints on both the crosswise and lengthwise yarns run at right angles.
This kind of fabric has perfect right-angled corners and is said to be ‘grain perfect’.
6. Off grain print is a fabric which does not show perfect right-angled corners and the lengthwise and
crosswise lines/print does not run at right angles. Such kind of off-grain printed fabrics are difficult to sew
because it is impossible to match the seam lines, at centre front, at centre back and at shoulders.
7. with the grain When the edges of yarns along a bias cut edge tends to close up compactly when stroked
with fingers, it is referred as with the grain. While working with a bias edge, it is better to work with the
grain to avoid stretching or raveling.
8. Against the grain When the edges of yarns along a bias cut edge tends to fray or come apart when stroked
with fingers, it is referred as against the grain.
Garment Bias :any slanting line or cut in a garment that is not at 45 degree angle is referred to as garment bias.
Basically a bias cut in cloth is a slanting or diagonal severing of the material. Both warp and woof threads
will be cut.
Straightening of fabric grain
Woven fabrics especially of lower quality are often slightly “off grain”, it means lengthwise and cross wise threads
are not completely perpendicular to each other. To make sure that the lengthwise and cross wise threads in
the fabric are at right angles to each other, referred to as “on-grain”, it is necessary to straighten one of the
cut ends.
1. Checking the grain in woven fabrics

2. Methods of straightening woven fabrics

Checking the grain in woven fabrics
Fabric grain refers to the direction in which the threads run parallel to selvedge. It is important for the
lengthwise and crosswise threads to meet at right angles otherwise the garment will twist or hang leading
to an unbalanced garment.
The threads that are parallel to the selvage and have little or no stretch. On a garment, the lengthwise grain
usually runs vertically from the shoulders to the hem. In the crosswise grain, or cross grain, threads run
across the width of the fabric at right angles to the selvage. These threads stretch more than lengthwise
threads. Occasionally garments are cut on the cross grain for some decorative effects. The “bias” runs
 diagonally across the lengthwise and crosswise grains. The “true bias” is at a 45 degree angle to the
lengthwise grain and cross grain and has inherent stretch, even on firmly woven fabrics.
When the fabric is cut from a bolt, it is natural that the cut end is not on one single crosswise yarn and so
the fabric edge has off grain. This needs to be corrected in one of the following ways:

Methods of straightening woven fabrics

1. Pull the Thread From Selvedge To Selvedge
This method is appropriate for loosely woven fabrics.

1. In woven fabric one filling yarn is carefully pulled until the fabric puckers.
2. Cut along the puckered line to the pulled yarn.
3. Repeat the pulling and cutting process until the opposite selvedge is reached.
4. The cut edge will be on grain and can be used in cutting patterns.
5. Cutting Along A Prominent Filling Yarn /Print Line.
When a filling yarn is readily visible the fabric may simply be cut from selvedge to selvedge.
1. This method can be used for a striped or plaid fabric with lines that run along the crosswise grain.
The stripe or plaid must be woven into the fabric.
2. Cut along one of these lines from one selvedge to the other, close to the cut edge of the fabric.
3. Tearing
This method is appropriate for tightly woven fabrics. Loosely woven fabrics may stretch out of shape with
this method.
• Clip into the selvedge near to the cut edge of the fabric.
• Tear the fabric all the way down to the opposite selvedge.
Sometimes the fabric may have warp and weft yarns perpendicular to each other but during finishing
process, they would have been disturbed. In such cases the following can be done:
4. Stretching method: The simplest method of making a fabric grain perfect is by stretching it. Open up the
fabric, keep it near the corner of a table and pull it on the true bias. After pulling for some time, fold the
fabric and check for grain perfectness. This process may have to be repeated several times.
5. Steam press method: If the above mentioned method does not work, clip the selvedges at intervals,
sprinkle water on the fabric and press with a hot iron in the appropriate direction till the fabric become
grain perfect.
6. Immersion method: This is the most effective method for straightening washable fabrics. The fabric is
folded lengthwise and the selvedges are tacked together. It is then immersed in water until completely wet,
and excess water is squeezed out. The fabric is hung up, till it is half dry. The half dry fabric is placed near
the corner of a table and stretching process is carried out to make it grain perfect. After straightening, it is
kept on a flat surface and dried. When dry, press with an iron, remove the tacking stitches along the edges.

Note: If a printed fabric is off-grain the fabric grain can be straightened but not the print. Hence it is necessary to
carefully inspect print of the fabric before purchasing. It is better to avoid any printed fabric that is badly
off-grain.
LAYOUT:
Once the fabrics are made grain perfect it has to be layed out for cutting. Arranging the pattern pieces
economically is termed as layout. While economizing, fit and comfort should not be compromised. Some of the points
to be considered while laying the patterns are as follows:
• Number the pattern pieces for easy identification both on the pattern and on the layout.
• All pattern pieces must be placed together.
• The general order of the layout should be from left side to right and fold to selvedge.
• The seam allowance, notches and darts should be marked with clarity using tailors’chalk.
• Curved seam lines must be traced either with a tracing wheel or tailor’s tacks.
• Mark the hem of sleeves and hem edges in the garment.
• Cut pieces, interfacing and interlining as per the pattern details.
• Pin the pattern pieces close to the fold lines and grain lines so that cloth can be used economically
Rules to remember in pattern layout
1. Press the fabric before laying it out on the table.
2. A large table is useful for comfortably laying out all the pattern pieces.
3. For an open layout (where single thickness of fabric is used) place the fabric with the right
side up.
4. For all other layouts, fold the right sides facing each other so that the wrong side faces
seamstress.
5. If a combination fold is used, lay and cut the lengthwise pattern pieces first before refolding
the cloth for crosswise layout.
6. Since most garments are made with the lengthwise grain running vertically on the body, align
the pattern pieces on the fabric accordingly, with the grainline of pattern parallel to the
selvage.
7. Pin all the pattern pieces to the fabric. Use only dressmaker’s pins as they do not damage the
fabric. Pins should be perpendicular to the stitching lines and the cutting line.
8. Place large pattern pieces first and then fit in the smaller ones.
9. Lay the pieces as close to each other so that fabric is not wasted.
10. Fit pattern pieces that are similar in shape next to each other. This process is called
dovetailing.
11. Always test out to see if all the pattern pieces fit into the fabric being used.
12. Mark seam allowances on the fabric if the pattern indicates so.
13. If pattern details are being transferred using a carbon paper, use a paper that is as close to the
color of the fabric as possible.
14. Mark pattern details only on the wrong side of the fabric.
15. Keep the fold lines of patterns on the folded edge of the cloth.
16. When using a lining material, mark only on the lining than on the actual fabric the garment is
 made.
17. Try to fit the wide end of one piece to the narrower end of the other. Ex: petticoat layout.
18. Arrange all pattern pieces before cutting the cloth.

The Different types of layouts

A fabric can be laid out in different ways. They are
• Open layout
• Lengthwise centre fold
• Off centre lengthwise fold
• Crosswise centre fold
• Off centre crosswise fold
• Double fold
• Combination fold

Open Layout
Open layout is the simplest layout. The fab-ric is spread on the table and the patterns are laid
from left to right one after the other. This is easy for beginners. No fold is made in this
method. It can be used for all patterns. This is used especially for designs with dif-ferent left
and right patterns.

Lengthwise Centre Fold

The fabric is folded in the lengthwise direction. The selvedges of both sides are placed one on
top of the other and folded in the middle. The fabric forms a fold at the centre. All folded
patterns are placed along this fold. This fold is also used for different type of frocks, shirts and
blouses.

Off-Centre Lengthwise Fold

The required width needed for the pat-terns is taken on the fabric and folded in the lengthwise
direction. This is com-monly seen when many small patterns are found in garments. The fold
should be parallel to the selvedge. This is used for many garments from simple baby’s panty
to integrated men’s coats.

Crosswise Outer Fold

Crosswise centre fold is similar to length-wise centre fold. In this fold, the fabric is folded in
crosswise direction. It is best suited, when the patterns are too narrow to be fitted in the
lengthwise fold. This fold can also be used when special effects are needed like having a dress
with hori-zontal strips using a material with length-wise stripes.
Off Centre Crosswise Fold

The off centre crosswise fold is a layout when the fabric is folded in the cross grain. The fold
is perpendicular to the selvedge. This fold is used when a part of garment is cut in cross wise
grain for ease or spe-cial effects. Example when collars or yokes are cut on fabrics with
horizontal strips or vertical strips.

Double Fold or Combination Fold

In combination fold the fabric is folded in lengthwise and crosswise grains together. This
layout is used for sari petticoats and jablas

Transferring the Pattern Details onto the Fabric

After deciding the type of layout that is economical for the drafted pattern, the pattern
details need to be transferred onto the fabric. This can be done by using tracing wheel,
carbon paper, tailor’s chalk of contrast color, color pencil. Pins can be used in
combination with pencil, tailor’s chalk or use of tailor’s tacks.
Tracing wheel
For delicate and sheer fabrics, tracing wheel is not appropriate as the teeth of the
tracing wheel may damage the fabric. For thick, smooth textured, heavy fabrics tracing
wheel can be used and the marking can be lined with pencil or chalk later.
Carbon Paper
When tracing pattern lines on fabric, carbon paper of good quality must be used.
Carbon marks will be left on cloth and may be visible from right side if the
fabric is transparent. While using carbon paper, tracing should be done lightly. Yellow
carbon is ideal to transfer pattern markings.
Tailor’s Chalk
The markings on the pattern like slashes, notches and darts can be marked directly on
the fabric with tailor’s chalk. Marks on the top layer can be transferred to the remaining layers
of the fabric by using a carbon paper or tracing wheel.
Common Pins

Pins help in anchoring the patterns to the fabric. Pattern edges are then marked with
tailor’s chalks.
Direction of Pins

Tailor’s Tacks
Silk and sheer fabrics are basically delicate and should be handled gently throughout
garment making. Tracing wheel, pins or even carbon paper may damage the fabric.
Hence, Tailor’s tacks should be used. The tacks should be done using contrast color
thread in double strand, so that they can be easily seen and then removed.
Stitch as indicated in the figure with long looped

Fig 5.21 Tailor’s Tacks

Fig 5.22 Procedure for Tacking

 Transferring pattern markings from paper
Once the pattern is ready, the details on the pattern should be transferred to
the cloth by marking. Accuracy in marking and cutting is necessary to construct a well fitted
garment. The various methods of transferring patterns markings onto the fabric is done using
• Dressmaker’s Carbon
• Tailor’s tacks
• Tailor’s chalk
The type of fabric governs the choice of method.
Dressmaker’s Carbon
The carbon paper method requires dressmaker’s carbon, tracing wheel, ruler and pins. The
carbon marks must not be visible on the right side of fabric being cut. This method is suitable
on any firm fabric.
• Place carbon paper between fabric and pattern, with the waxed sides of carbon facing
the wrong side of the cloth.
• Mark lightly and only once with a tracing wheel

Tailor’s Tacks
This method uses a double strand machine thread to transfer pattern markings onto the fabric.
It is good for silks and sheer fabrics.
• Use double thread
• Do not knot the thread end.
• Take a stitch through both layers of fabric, leaving 1 ½” of thread at the beginning of
the stitch.
• Take a second stitch at the same point with a 1” loop
• Repeat the same process along pattern lines (darts)
• To remove the pattern from the fabric, cut the threads between tailor’s tacks and pull
gently and cut threads between two fabric layers
Tailor’s Chalk
Tailor’s chalk can also be used to transfer the pattern markings. Only the outer edges can be
transferred while the marks on the pattern can be transferred using through carbon paper and
tracing wheel.

Method of Advantages Disadvantages

Marking

Dressmaker’s • Quick, easy and accurate • Shows on right side if fabric is flimsy or
carbon • Entire stitch line details if marked heavily
transferred • Difficult to remove by washing
• Identical marks on both layers • Markings distort on stretchy fabrics

Tailor’s tacks • Easily removed • Time consuming

• Visible on both sides of each • Threads are to be removed after all
fabric layer construction processes
• Danger of snipping fabric while cutting
threads between fabric layers
Tailor’s chalk • Inexpensive • Difficult to achieve accuracy
• Easy to rub off the marks • Need to sharpen chalk edge for fine lines

Stay stitching
Stay stitching is a row of directional stitching sewn just inside a seamline just ¼ inch from the
cut edge to help keep the cut area from stretching during construction, fitting and general
handling. Normally, stay stitching is done only on curved or angular seams, though it may be
done in other areas on unstable fabrics like loosely woven or very stretchy fabrics.
Stay stitching uses a regular length stitch and it's done through a single fabric thickness using
a matching thread. This stabilizing stitching remains in the garment after the construction
stitching is complete. It is generally one as soon as the curved edge is cut ex: neckline,
armhole etc. Never stay stitch long bias-cut edges, as they will distort beyond correction.
Direction of Stay Stitching
The stitching direction is the key to successfully maintaining a garment’s shape during
construction and fitting. Arrows shown in the following figure can detail the direction of stay
stitching.
Ease stitching
Ease stitching is generally done on larger area that needs to be fitted into smaller areas.
Ex: A larger sleeve cap may require ease stitching to ease into a smaller armscye. Large neck
can be shortened by making ease stitches to form small gathers to shorten the neckline size.
A normal machine stitch with loose upper tension or a slightly longer stitch is used for ease
stitching. Ease stitching must be done on sleeve cap between notches on girls and ladies
garments. This will help adjust the sleeve cap to fit the armhole while attaching the sleeves.