Plague Bird Plush Sewing Pattern Hack
Plague Bird Plush Sewing Pattern Hack
Plague Bird Plush Sewing Pattern Hack
bir d plush
sewing pattern hack
www.cholyknight.com
plague bird plush 2 introduction
1. First you'll need the Pet Bird 2. The mask section will show you how to
Collection Plush Sewing construct the plague doctor mask and replace the
Pattern as a base to start. face from the original bird pattern.
3. When your new bird is complete, the accessories section will show you how to make a
selection of clothing and accessories.
table j contents
The instructions are separated by type of add-on or hack, so you can skip to the part that
you're the most interested in. At the beginning of each section you’ll find the materials
and tools specific to that project.
introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-3
pattern key & print layout. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
assembling the pattern. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
THE MASK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-10
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES. . . . . . . . . . . 11-30
cape. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11-17
flat hat & witch hat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18-23
lantern. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24-30
templates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31-40
patter n key
Below is a list of the pattern templates found in this collection. They are grouped by
garment. See the project page for more help choosing variations within the pieces. To find
where the pieces are within the document, see the next page.
U2 U1 T2
1 2 3T1 4 5
U3
R
S T3
Q
W1 W2 V1 V3
6 7 8 9 10
V2
the mask
The first step in creating your iconic plague bird look is a new mask! The new mask
pieces (Q, R, & S) replace the head front (A) from the original pattern. They give your
bird that creepy look of a large, beak-shaped mask with staring sinister eyes.
difficulty: EXAMPLES:
skills used:
• sewing curved pieces accent
• matching points band
around rest of
• fusible web applique mask the bird
suggested fabrics: stays the
same
• A fabric that matches the
rest of your bird is suggested
here.
• This includes
medium-weight plush
fabrics like minky or fleece.
¼ yd.; 9” long
R
nap
D1
example: D2
mask templates P2
nap
11” wide D1
on pg. 31-32 G2 B1
foot fabric
P2 P2 S S
G2
⅛ yd.
O2 M
nap
O1 O2
O1
M
26” wide
16” wide
To begin, grab your mask pieces (Q). These will need eyes, so we'll start by appliqueing whatever your
desired eye is on the fabric.
Follow the instructions from steps 1-2 of the original Pet Bird Plush Sewing Pattern for how
to applique. Begin by tracing the design you'd like from the paper templates (found on page 32). There are
choices for a sketchy eye, bird skull, moon eye, eye with stitches, and dripping eye.
Fuse the traced fusible web to your applique fabrics, then cut out the pieces. Remove the paper backing,
then fuse the new fabric to your main fabric pieces. Stitch the fabric in place if you've used lightweight
fusible web, or leave it if you've used heavy duty (no-sew) fusible web. Repeat for both sides of the mask.
c d
further. This will make
step 5 easier later.
d. Repeat with your
remaining mask piece
on the other side of the
bottom piece, matching up
points 11 and 12.
11
sides 11
will join
to mask
11 11
a. Align the head side (S) with your mask piece (Q) so right sides are facing and the raw
edges match up. Point 11 should match up near the bottom corner and the notch should align
near the middle. Pin the fabrics together.
b. Sew the head side to the mask along this edge.
c. Repeat on the other side with your remaining head side piece.
12
a. Align your mask pieces (Q) with right sides facing so the top edge matches up.
b. Sew from the top corner of the mask down to point 12 at the tip of the beak. Try to stop
exactly where the other seams stop for best results.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tip of the beak, and clip the seam allowances on the
curves of the previous seams.
a. Turn the mask right side out and the tip of the beak should make a nice point.
b. Now you can continue making your bird as usual, starting with sewing the head back (B1 or
B2). Align these head back pieces over the head front you have so far. Follow the instructions
as usual, aligning the center seam and the raw eges.
c. Sew the head back to the head front all the way around, but leave the bottom open for the
neck.
→ This completes the mask portion! You can now attach this new head to your bird body
as usual. Continue to the future sections to make some accessories for your new bird!
the cape
This capelet adds the iconic silhouette of a plague doctor, but made to fit the chubby
bird plush. This pattern has an option for either a collar or a hood. But the construction
is very much the same.
skills used:
HOOD
VERSION: thin fleece
outer fabric;
• sewing curved pieces minky lining
• sewing snaps
• ladder stitch
COLLAR VERSION:
snap
closure
Shannon vulture
Fabrics Luxe inspired
Cuddle Shaggy faux fur
collar
¼ yd.; 9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
g r a in
g r a in
T3 T3
T2
T1 T1
T2
¼ yd.; 9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
gr a in
gr a in
T3 T3
T1 T1
30” wide 13” wide
leave open
for turning
leave
front
& neck
open
trim seam
allowance at
corner
a. Grab your hood pieces (T3). Take the two outer hood pieces and align them with right sides
facing and raw edges aligning.
b. Sew the hood together along the top and back edges. These are marked on the paper pattern
for easy identification. Leave the front edge and neck edge free.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corner of the hood to reduce bulk when the hood is
turned later.
turn right
side out
a. Sew the hood to the lining along the front edge. Leave the neck edge free.
b. The second photo shows what this might look like from the side.
c. Turn the hood right side out through the opening in the neck. Press the front edge of the hood
so it looks nice and crisp.
→ Grab your outer fabric cape piece (T1) as well as your collar (T2) or hood (T3).
a. Take your sewn collar (T2) and line up the raw edge with the neck edge of the cape outer
fabric. For extra help, use the center markings in the center to help align the collar. Pin the
fabrics together.
b. For a hood (T3), start by spreading out the neck edge of your fabric pieces. Then line up the
outer fabric and lining so the edges match.
c. Line up the raw edge with the neck edge of your cape so the outer fabrics are facing. The hood
center seam should line up with the center circle marking. Pin the fabrics together.
c d
together.
d. Sew around the bottom
edge of the cape to finish
the seam.
a. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corner to reduce bulk for when the cape is turned later.
b. Turn the cape right side out through the opening you left in the neck.
Define the corners with a chopstick or similar turning tool. Press the edge of the capelet so
everything looks crisp and neat.
a. Test dressing the cape onto your bird. Overlap the front corners to find where it fits best. The
paper pattern has snap placement guides for help, so that's a good place to start. Mark where
the corners overlap.
b. Align the sew-in snaps over the placement guides to secure the capelet at the neck.
c. Attach the ball end of the snap on the lining half of the cape piece, Use heavy duty thread if
you have it, or double over your current thread. Stitch through each hole on the snap 2-3 times
for a strong hold.
Attach the socket end of your snap on the other side of the cape on the outer side of the fabric.
the hat
The iconic plague doctor look includes a flat cap. If you opted for a hooded cape in the
last project, then you won't need a hat. But if you have a collared cape, this perfectly
finishes the look. As a fun switch-up, this also includes an option for a witch hat, which
has a similar construction.
pointed
crown with FLAT CAP
(optional) VERSION:
bend minky
outside
fusible interfacing
inside (to keep shape)
¼ yd.; 9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
V3 V3 W2 W2
g r a in
g r a in
V1 W1
31” wide 28” wide
¼ yd.; 9” long
V3 V2 W2
V1 W1
23” wide 21” wide
align single
notches with seam
a. Grab your top piece (V1). Align the larger opening of the
sides (V2) around the crown top. For extra help with tip:
alignment, match up the single notches as you pin the
If your crown sides have
fabrics. trouble stretching to fit around
b. Sew the crown sides to the top all the way around. the top, make small clips into
the seam allowance to give it
c. Turn the crown right side out when complete. more stretch.
→ Skip ahead to step 6 for the brim.
sew
down to
fold
a. Grab your crown piece (W1). Note the large wedges taken out of the sides. These are darts.
To sew them, start by folding your fabric with right sides facing along the point of the dart.
This should match up the slanted lines.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat for both darts for two total.
a. Fold the entire crown piece (W1) in half with right sides facing. This should match up the
edges with darts. Line up the raw edges and pin the fabric in place.
b. Sew along this edge of the hat. Start at the opening and work your way to the point of the hat.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance around the seam to reduce bulk and make the hat easier to
turn.
a. Grab your brim pieces (V3 or W2). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching
up.
b. Sew the brim pieces together around the outer edge.
c. When complete, turn it right side out through the opening in the center. Press the outer seam
so it looks crisp.
a. Grab your crown piece from before. The opening of your crown will be joined to the inner
circle of the hat brim (V2 or W3).
b. Start by visually lining up your crown and hat brim as shown. You'll notice that there are
double notches on both the crown and hat brim to help with alignment.
c d
the lanter n
This lantern is the perfect accessory to finish off the look of your bird! It has a squarish
shape with a narrow bottom and wider, domed top. A ribbon is sewn into the top for
attaching to your bird, and applique panels serve as the lit windows.
ribbon for
handle
applique slightly
light domed top
panels
top stitched
upper &
lower ridge
main fabric
⅛ yd.
U2
U1 U1 U1 U1
g r a in
U3 U2
23” wide
leave open
for turning
a. Grab two of your lantern side pieces (U1) and align them with right sides facing and the
raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the two pieces along one of the side edges. This is the edge that cuts in at a steep angle at
the top and bottom. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corner to help reduce bulk.
c. Repeat this with your remaining two side pieces, but this time leave an opening for turning as
indicated on the paper pattern. This should leave you with two halves of the lantern.
a. Grab your ribbon piece. Take the time to tie a knot on each end of the ribbon. This will help
prevent it from unraveling during use.
b. Grab one of your top pieces (U2). If you haven't already, note the ribbon placement lines
found on the paper pattern for the top. Take your two knotted ends of the ribbon and align
them over these placement lines. Make sure the knots are extending past the fabric.
c. Baste the ribbon to the top edge of the fabric to hold it in place for the next step.
a. Grab your other top piece (U2) and align it over the current one so right sides are facing and
the raw edges match up. This should sandwich the ribbon between the layers.
b. Sew the top pieces together along the top edge where the ribbon was attached.
c. Open up the pieces and the ribbon should be secured inside.
pivot at corners
a. Grab your side pieces from before (U1) as well as your top pieces (U2). Take the wider end
of your lantern and align it over the top piece so the corners match up. Pin the fabrics together.
b. Sew the lantern top to the sides around the straight edges. Be sure to pivot at the corners to
try and make a clean square shape. The second photo shows what this might look like from
the top.
c. And the third photo shows what this might look like from the side.
a. Flip over your lantern and there should be an opening left for the bottom (U3).
b. Grab your bottom piece and align it with the lantern sides similar to the top. Match up
the corners and the sides.
c. Sew the bottom piece to the lantern sides all around each edge. Be sure to pivot at the corners
for a clear square shape.
a. To create the ridges on the top and bottom of the lantern, the top and bottom edges are
pinched and top stitched.
Start with the top edge. Flatten out one side of the square so the top and side pieces are
flattened together. We're going to top stitch about ⅜" in from the fold.
b. Top stitch entirely around the top of the lantern, about ⅜" in from the fold. This should create
a square.
c. Repeat the same process with the bottom of the lantern, but only top stitch about ¼" in from
the fold.
ladder
stitch
ridges closed
along
top and
bottom
a. When the top stitching is complete, you should have a square of stitching along the top and
bottom, creating ridges.
b. Stuff the lantern semi-firmly with stuffing. Mostly focus on the corners so the lantern achieves
a nice geometric shape.
c. Ladder stitch the opening closed that you left in the side.
TEST SQUARE
2”
N
lan
AI
measure this square to
tern
GR
be sure you’ve printed
at the proper
Cu
¼” t 2
se of m
U2
proportions am a
all in f
ow ab
an ric
ce
top stitching
lantern
G RA I N
U3
Cut 1 of main
fabric
¼” seam
allowance
11 11
top stitching
R
Cut 1 of
mask fabric S
¼” seam
allowance
m allow
Q f
Cut 2 o
S T RET CH
STRETC H
12 11
11
pg. 2/10
applique
lantern Trace/cut 2 from black
U1
Cut 4 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
openin
applique
Trace/cut 2
g for tu
from accent
GRAIN
color
rning
applique
Trace/cut 2 from white
applique
applique Trace/cut 4 each
Trace/cut 4 from from white
light yellow or applique
white Trace/cut 2 each
from gray
applique
Trace/cut 2 each
from
accent color
applique
Trace/cut 2 from
black
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
from black
applique
Trace/cut 2
from red
pg. 3/10
(T2)
snap
placement
(T3
plague
)
bir d
sewing pattern hack
T1 center p
oint
Cut 1 of main fabric openi
ng for
turning
Cut 1 of lining fabric
¼” seam allowance
D1 D2
10 pg. 4/10
(T2)
snap
(T3) placement
D3 D4
G R AI N
G R AI N
front edge
int
D1 D2
n
10 pg. 5/10
ance
a llow abric
eam in f
¼” s of ma
2
Cut
T2
t
poin
er
ent
c
D3 D4 GR
to
p A
ed IN
ge
plague
bir d
sewing pattern hack
T3
Cut 2 of main fabric
Cut 2 of lining fabric
¼” seam allowance
ge
ed
ck
ba
ge
neck ed
pg. 6/10
N
ere f
dart
I
e
A
cut h
GR
gu k
a drn hac
pl i ratte t
b p
g ha
in tch
wi
w
se ic
1 br
fa nce
W ain a
m low
of al
t 1 am
Cu ” se
¼
pg. 7/10
witch hat
W2
G R AI N
Cut 2 of main
fabric
¼” seam
allowance
pg. 8/10
N I
RA G
E1 E2
10 pg. 9/10
t t o p hat
fla
Vm1ain fabric
of ce
Cut 1 m allowan
a
¼” se
E1 E2
plague
bir d
sewing pattern hack
flat top hat
GR A IN
V2
Cut 1 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
pg. 10/10
flat top
hat
G R AI N
V3
Cut 2 of main
fabric
¼” seam
allowance