Fuel Pump Notes

Notes on my experience of replacing the fuel pump in an
Audi A8 / S8 D2 platform vehicle
At the time of writing this commentary, the year is 2020. My advice to any-
one attempting this job going forward, considering the plastic housing for
the fuel pump delivery unit could be up to 25 years old, is to be very patient.
Don’t rush, take your time, and perhaps heat up the plastic with a heater or
hairdryer to make it more pliable and less brittle when attempting any pry-
ing, twisting or other forceful actions when taking the housing apart. Thank
you MJ for this great tip.
I found that after these many years, the housing was most reluctant to ‘give’
in any way. The cap for the fuel gauge sender did not want to budge, the
collar for the housing did not want to turn and the long bolt did not want to
undo.
The sender cap is supposed to be removed using Audi special tool 2012A
and the collar which holds the fuel delivery unit to the top of the tank by
special tool 3342.
I have read articles online where people have used the handles of long nose
pliers held by vise grips or channel lock pliers, or even screwdrivers to turn
the sender cap the required amount (until the arrows line up) but this did
not work for me. It would not budge. So I took measurements and made
my own ‘special’ tool.
Arrows need to line up

Before i get to the special tools though, I thought I would mention that
there was plenty of room in the boot for this special tool once the spare tyre
and tool kit were removed! You can see my C4 Avant in the background too.
Bonus.
Pictured below are the official version of the two special tools
10mm bolts and nuts to suit mounted and spaced on a piece of slotted right
angle metal of some description served as a DIY version of Audi special tool
2012A A clockwise twist saw the cap released
A mallet and a piece of firewood served

admirably as a substitute for special tool
3342
Gentle taps on the protrusions of the collar

to make it travel anti-clockwise was good
enough to loosen it so it could be removed
by hand eventually
The 12” long bolt (number 24 in the diagram above) required a lot of torque to
unfasten so I put a piece of galvanised iron pipe over the socket wrench handle so
that I had more leverage and control over the motion of the wrench. I have read
several stories of woe saying that the captive nut where the long bolt fastens to at
the bottom of the fuel tank broke in its plastic housing and the bolt subsequently
being unable to be released.
I wanted to avoid that. It made a heart stopping noise when it gave as it was!
I made some marks on the pump hous-
ing and on some tape stuck to the boot
floor so that I could be sure that the
pump housing was oriented correctly
upon reinstallation. I asm not sure it
was necessary, as the housing can really
only be in a certain position when seat-
ed correctly. It was reassuring though.
I also tied some wire to the connec-

tor for the fuel gauge sender so that it
could easily be retrieved when it came
time to reconnect it.
The collar which secures the

pump housing to the top of
the fuel tank is ready to be re-
moved once the two fuel lines
have been disconnected.
Once this is done, removal of

the housing from the fuel tank
is possible.
Lift the housing straight up whilst turn-
ing gently left and right. This releases
the housing from the plate at the bottom
of the tank. Then turn the housing an-
ti-clockwise whilst lifting.
Eventually, the housing will be able to

be lifted out of the tank. Have a bucket
ready if the petrol tank wasn’t empty!
Here is another tip. DO NOT celebrate with several whiskeys after you
have removed the housing from the tank, or if you do, DO NOT take apart
the housing until the next day, or you might not remember how it all
came apart. Ask me how I know this...
Worse still, you might break something, something plastic, something

brittle, like the clip that helps to seal the upper housing to the lower
housing. I didn’t break anything but it was drunken luck, not skill!
Remove the clamp that

was here
You can’t separate the two halves of After you remove a clamp you
the fuel pump enclosure until you can remove the hose hose com-
remove a clamp from the metal boo- ing from the fuel pump from the
merang shaped fuel connector that boomerang and then the upper
attaches to the hose coming from housing can be slid away from the
the fuel pump. lower part thus allowing access to
the fuel pump.
Bend back
gently
Bend the two retaining clips

located on opposite sides of
the fuel pump out of the way
and the fuel pump can be with-
drawn from the lower part of the
housing by pulling on the hose
attached to the pump spiggot. I
found it to be a very tight fit so
go easy, as you wouldn’t want to
break anything. Did i mention
that already?
Install the new pump, connect the wires, put tne hose clamps on and then
reassemble the housing.
The fuel pump will only seat properly in one position. The two protrusions
on the bottom of the pump locate it in the housing in a keyed fashion. The
pump won’t be able to be retained by the clips until this is achieved so you
will know when it is seated properly.
You can then lower the inner fuel pump lower housing into the outer hous-
ing. Again, this inner housing will only go in properly in one location. It was
about now that I wished I had not disassembled the contraption whilst drunk.
I could have at least had the foresight to mark the assembly with a texta so I
could line it all up easily.
Once in, you can snap the upper fuel pump cover into the outer housing,
aligning the catch that is subsequently retained by the clip on the outer
housing slightly to its right. Push down with a blunt object all around the
housing to make sure that the two halves meet compleately all around as
they need to be ‘fuel tight’ according to the instructions from Audi. There is
an o-ring which is rebated into the upper cover that facilitates this. I sprayed
it with silicone grease to aid installation. Once the two halves meet all of the
way around, you can twist the upper and lower halves in opposite directions
so that the catch moves into position under the clip, thus helping to seal the
two halves. Now you just have to put the housing back into the tank.....
See down in the tank there? Line it all up and you are done.
Output from fuel pump goes in here
Housing sits in here
Bolt installs here

Here is what you must achieve to ensure the housing has been located correctly.
Now that I have it all back together and the car starting, I just have to drive
around until the fuel tank is less than half full and see what happens. I will be
carrying some fuel in the boot for the next week or so just in case, but fingers
crossed, all should be well.
I may be imagining it but the car seems to run better now! Very snappy. I drove
80KM this afternoon and it was lovely.
One final observation - the ASR and the CAT lights both came on when the fuel
pump died but they are gone now!

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Notes on my experience of replacing the fuel pump in an

Audi A8 / S8 D2 platform vehicle

Arrows need to line up

A mallet and a piece of firewood served

Gentle taps on the protrusions of the collar

I also tied some wire to the connec-

The collar which secures the

Once this is done, removal of

Eventually, the housing will be able to

Worse still, you might break something, something plastic, something

Remove the clamp that

Bend the two retaining clips

Output from fuel pump goes in here

Housing sits in here

Bolt installs here

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