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Refunding - The Entire Guide

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Refunding - The Entire Guide

Indigo
Intro:

This is the highest effort post I've ever put on here. It attempts to give pretty much every single
person who reads this the tools to make thousands of dollars through refunding, as long as the
information remains current. I'm not going to be including any shortcuts like storelists, for two
reasons. First, you learn a lot by experimenting with different stores and trying to find the ones
you want, and secondly, publishing a list of stores and their associated methods guarantees it'll
stop working faster than if you kept it to yourself. If the barrier to entry drops to nothing, stores
get raped and we all suffer in the long run. I will be writing everything you need to make your
own store list, including terminology, methods, unique ideas that no one else in the refunding
scene is doing, and way more. This is MY take on refunding, and I definitely do this shit
differently than most in the scene. There are plenty of other valid ways to go about this, and I'll
reference some of them (especially when they overlap with how I do it), but I'll only be going in
depth on aspects and methods that I use/used personally because I think my ways are best
anyways. This beginner guide won't teach you how to make a shit ton of money, but it will equip
you with the basic tools you need to eventually make a decent amount of money, and you'll start
profiting small amounts immediately. So enjoy, and let me know if this helps you out!

Terminology:

SE: Social Engineering. Basically manipulation for profit.


DNA: The classic method, did not arrive. Simply claiming you never received the package.
Simple, but highly effective, especially on smaller orders.
EB: Another classic, empty box. Claiming that the package arrived, but arrived empty. A twist I
generally use is cutting open the bottom, and sealing it with a different color tape than the one
the company used. I take a picture and send it to them when I claim eb, as evidence to support
my claim it was stolen.
PEB: Partially empty box. A higher success rate version of EB. Works best when you order a
few cheaper bigger items, and one small expensive item.
FTID: (explained below)
RTS: Returned to Sender.
LIT: Lost in Transit. A scan a boxer uses to make a package never get delivered. Used for
returns, after a week or two, you call customer service and se a refund based on the tracking
number and what it says (anything other than delivered).
FTIDNA: Basically an override. Your tracking number is reintroduced into the system, and is
either marked as delivered in another state or RTS, depending on the carrier. Basically it makes
your package look like it never got delivered, and for ups it even overwrites delivery proof
photos. Easy way to get a refund under $1k if your se is up to par.
Drop Address: An address you use to receive packages you don't want shipped to your house
Drop (bank) account: A payment method created and verified using a fullz.
Nothing is outdated to this day and its working. Of course your success rate using these
methods depends on the shop you are trying to hit

Enjoy

FTID version 1:

(no changes, only boxing)

I personally used the most for Amazon.DE. As of today it’s recommended to use either Option 2
or Option 3 as they come with a higher success rate.
If you make “no changes” on the label the chances of the seller to finding out you returned an
empty package can be very high, especially if they don’t use 3rd party companies for their
returns.
Since Option 2 and 3 require you to do some changes on the label, which are very easy to do
for everyone, I will no longer describe this option any further as it only comes with
disadvantages compared to Option 2 and 3.

FTID version 2:

Remove personal and order related details

This method can be applied on both, prepaid labels you got from the company and your own
label. But keep in mind it’s still recommended to go with a
prepaid label if you are able to get one. If you have to create your own label, I suggest buying
one from the carrier’s website, which you have to print on your own. So once you have your
label, you have to remove all personal/order related details from it, so there is no way for the
company to find your order!

FTID version 3:

“Change shipping address”

This method allows you to get the tracking to 100%, without the package being sent to the
original destination. This option is for almost all of the shops not required as they do not check
your label in detail as explained on the previous page, but if you would like to go the safe path,
I’d recommend using option 3. This is basically the same as Option 2, but with one little extra
modification - You change the shipping address.

Here is how:
When you buy a label from the carrier’s website, make sure to put the address of the company
you are Refunding. So basically where the package should originally be shipped to. If you have
a prepaid label already, then there is nothing else to do right now.
Once you have the label, you are going to manually change the shipping address to a different
address which is in the same city. This can be anything from a McDonalds to another electronic
company.
Make sure they accept the package for sure, otherwise your refund will fail.
A label example and how you are going to change the shipping can be found on the next pages.
There are numerous ways of doing so.
It is very important that you change the address near the original shipping address, because
every label has a routing code which automatically ships the package to the near location. Once
it arrives, the package will be shipped to the address which is noted on the label.

FTID version 4:

This is where you use single side print flyers with an advertisement on it and place the
label(ftid3 label) on the other side (withoud ad)
- typically you would only use this for international orders so it gets through customs quicker or if
you needed faster shipping with say budget shipping labels
- often reffered to as 'advanced' FTID version 3, but its not really I only use this for international
orders

FTID version 5:

Theres like 10 different versions of FTID5 but here is the barcode method:
- Use a barcode generator and add your tracking number to it then replace on label
- create a QR code holding a similar or unreadable tracking number
- it's completely unnessacary to use this method unless you are doing a fake return

FTID version 5.5:

fake return: this is where you send an item of a similar weight and you are sending it to the
actual company
- its rare that this is required typically you only do this if you suck and fail a refund and a FTID or
just FTID

FTID version 6:

Get your label.


Attach to parcel.
Proceed to beat the living fucking shit out of the Parcel.
Send beaten up empty parcel.
Courier will notice the parcel looks like shit and will investigate it further to find out its empty.
Box will be thrown away.

FTID version 7
Get the label
Remove address to their warehouse
Get a transparent ink that gets removed automatically in less than 48 hours
Write with the ink their warehouse address
Send the parcel
Warehouse address will be vanished when the courier will try to deliver and it will mark the
package as lost in transit.

You can use FTID v7 on multiple creative ways:

- copy the bar code with the invisible ink that gets removed in 48 hours
- copy the customer address with the invisible ink that gets removed in 48 hours

You didn't understand how OP is version 7 and why is keept that private?
- With FTID version 7 you can make the parcel vanish, so LIT will be the best with v7 or in case
you want the package to get delivered, do not write their address with the transparent ink and
write the scan code.
Pretty sure you got it already, will be hard first time, but after that... trust me... I personally SE'd
lots of products with this. So I can confirm it works on Dell, Hp, Asus and other providers.

FTID version 8

1) Order from any US & CA Store that ships with UPS or DHL.
2) I would recommend you to order Shipped & Sold items for any store and 5 maximum items to
avoid rebills over some years.
3) Wait for delivery.
4) When the package/s get delivered do not open them.
5) Download a scanning app on your phone. Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamma.scan&hl=en_US&gl=US and iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/qr-code-reader/id1200318119
6) Scan the QR Code and you will get the shipping label company used to ship the packages.
7) After you’ve scanned the QR Code, you just have to do FTID v3.
8) Get the label from phone to PC via any app.
9) Afterwards install “Adobe Acrobat” to be able to edit the label.
10) Follow previous guides how to do FTID v3 (very simple, you can add as address absolutely
any
street and business, does not matter at all – even tho I personally recommend to stay on the
same zip code), if you need any help with FTID v3, message me on Telegram.
11) After you edit it, go to post office and let them ship the FTID.
12) When FTID gets delivered, contact store that you ordered from and ask them WHERE is the
package. Do not tell them you did not received the items FIRST, ALWAYS ask them where it is.
13) They will check and see that it got delivered to the wrong address, resulting in an instant
refund.
14) Success.
Long story short:
- You reroute the label after it gets delivered to you
- If you know how to do FTID v3, this will be so easy for you

FTID version 9 (FTIDLit):


What is special about FTID v9:
- Better success rate than FTID v8 for companies that are responsible for lost packages
- Rebills won’t happen since this version is used by less than 10 people currently, even lower
than FTID v8.
- Unlimited $$$$ to be refunded (you can refund even $15k orders, it got tested by us)
- Unlimited items to be refunded (you can refund even 10 orders, it got tested by us)
- Works the best in USA and CA (currently in testing mode for Europe.
- Absolutely no rebills.
- Up to 24 hours refunds (also known as “instant” refunds in the refunding scene)
- Noob friendly.
- Very LIMITED amount of people know about this version.
- Most of the time, even third party sellers can get refunded easily.

How to do FTID v9:


1) Order from any US & CA Store that ships with UPS or DHL.
2) I would recommend you to order Shipped & Sold items for any store and 5 maximum items to
avoid
rebills over some years.
3) Wait for delivery.
4) When the package/s get delivered do not open them.
5) Download a scanning app on your phone. Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamma.scan&hl=en_US&gl=US and iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/qr-code-reader/id1200318119
6) Scan the QR Code and you will get the shipping label company used to ship the packages.
7) After you’ve scanned the QR Code, you just have to do FTID Lost In Transit (doing this you
will have to get
the special printer and the special ink, you will find all links on the guide named “Lost In Transit
Guide”)
8) Get the label from phone to PC via any app.
9) Afterwards install “Adobe Acrobat” to be able to edit the label.
10) Follow previous guides how to do FTID Lost In Transit, if you need any help with FTID LIT,
message me on
Telegram.
11) After you edit it, go to post office and let them ship the FTID.
12) When FTID gets delivered, contact store that you ordered from and ask them WHERE is the
package. Do
not tell them you did not received the items FIRST, ALWAYS ask them where it is.
13) They will check and see that the package got lost in transit, due to that they will usually ask
you if you
want a replacement, but you can easily ask for refund/s.
14) Success.
Long story short:
- You reroute the label after it gets delivered to you, afterwards it will get lost in transit
- If you know how to do FTID Lost In Transit, this will be so easy for you
Beginner Refunding Methods:

As a beginner, the focus for you should be honing your social engineering skills, not hitting
massive refunds or making as much money as possible. As a result, I encourage beginners to
stick mostly to eb/dna, and to keep orders below $500 ($300 to start). Refunding orders under
$300 is basically going to be automatic, and refunding orders under $500 is almost as good
pretty much universally. Using any of the ftid tricks for these orders make it incredibly easy, to
the point where basically no se whatsoever is required. That might seem cool, but you
absolutely need to develop your se skills if you want to do big orders consistently at some point,
and this low stakes environment is the perfect place to do it. Remember, if you fuck it up and
can't get the refund, you can always return it. The goal as a beginner should be essentially to
learn by playing around in a consequence free sandbox, so you can take those tools and make
some decent money in the intermediate stage. Of course, that doesn't mean you shouldn't be
making money here, it'll just be less and less consistent than it will be eventually.

The general refund method at this stage should be: DNA, then if that fails, EB or PEB, then if
that fails, just return it. This gives you a few chances to get the refund, hone your se skills, and
as long as you know your return window, there's no risk of losing money.

Beginner Payment Methods:

This isn't gonna be as high profit as my last refunding method, but it's a really easy method to
use consistently for people out there who just want to get good at the social engineering aspect
of refunding and make some money doing it. You're gonna need some drop addresses to do
this, I recommend zillow listings that you call and confirm are unoccupied if you're a noob. I
personally use reshipping services that I create and verify under the fullz I'm currently using.
You're also gonna need a debit card/checking account that can be linked to privacy (dot) com.

The method is very simple, everyone knows that DNA (did not arrive) or EB (empty box) work
pretty much every single time on orders under $300, and like 90% of the time on orders under
$500, even on fresh accounts. I'm talking shit like shoes, clothes, legos, video games, etc. The
problem is, once you hit a website once, you can't just keep hitting it because they'll stop
refunding you. You have to make them think you area brand new customer to get another easy
refund. To do that, you need a new payment method that has a different billing address, as well
as a new shipping address. If even one thing remains the same, the company is able to see that
they already gave a refund to someone using the same name or address or payment method,
so they won't do it again.

The solution is privacy (dot) com and zillow. Privacy allows you to generate like 20 virtual cards
per month on their free plan. Each card has a unique 16 digit card number, exp date, and cvv,
so it looks like a new card every time, but they're all linked to your checking account. Best of all,
you can put absolutely any name and billing address you want and it'll work. So all you have to
do, is find a suitable drop address on zillow (make sure it's unoccupied), and then generate a
virtual card on privacy (dot) com. Then make a new email and account on whatever website,
and place your order for under $500 (or $300 if you want to be safe), and put the billing and
shipping address as your drop address. Then just go pick the box up on your way home, or wait
for it if you have extra time. Then call (always call, never use chat) the company and say it
never arrived or was empty and looked torn open when you received it. Then get refunded,
generate a new card and find a new address, and do the same thing again.

I'd recommend finding a good cashout group on T E L E, and refunding the shit they pay the
best % for. This is a really easy way to make refunding a consistent source of income, limited as
it is, for a while. If you don't mix in legit purchases, privacy will eventually close or limit your
account, so be smart and don't abuse this unless you have a lot of drop bank accounts to make
new privacy accounts with.

If you have shit social engineering, you might actually manage to fail a refund under $500, so
start off with under $300 to learn. I've been doing this for years at this point, and to this day I
have literally never failed a single refund under $300 with any company. You don't need ftid,
ftidna, lit scan, rts scans, or any fancy shit like that for orders this small either, so the se won't
even be that complex. Just wait a day or two, then call and say you got an email that your
package was delivered but you don't see it anywhere. Answer their questions (yes, you checked
with your neighbors, no, there is no front desk that might have it, etc), and they'll refund you.
Just stay calm and respectful, and if it doesn't work, hang up and try again with a new rep.

You don't need a drop account for these. I, and everyone I've taught, all refunded at least $10k
gross under our own names with our own info before we switched to fullz. It lowers the
resources you need to start, as well as the penalty for potential failure. There's no chance your
own bank gets closed for refunding a few thousand, but there's a somewhat decent chance a
drop opened under a fullz will, with your money in it. When you first start, you should be doing
$200-$250 orders with your own debit or credit card, then $300-$500 orders with your own
credit or debit card, and figuring out which companies will refund you for what amounts how
easily/consistently.

Once you've figured some of that out, and you want to start making money, you pick a few of
those websites, and place orders using privacy generated virtual cards. You don't even need a
fullz, you can put any billing and shipping address you want, and the card will work. Just make
sure your fraud score is low (google check my fraud score), don't place more than one order
under a different name per device per week, and you aren't ordering to an address far from
where you are. I wouldn't use a drop address outside of my city at this point, to prevent orders
from being canceled.

Beginner Receiving Address:

At first, you should just order to your own house. Like I said, I and everyone I teach, has ordered
at least $10k gross retail price worth of refunded items to our houses, and nothing ever happens
because we don't rape any individual store. Every store will write off small losses like you should
be chasing in the beginner stage, but I would not order to my house anything past this stage.
$300-$500 orders to test companies' policies and response to techniques are fine to send to
your house, $1000+ orders to abuse an exploit you found in the testing stage ordered to your
house is a dumb idea.

Like I said in the payment methods section, once you find a few stores that you know you can
easily refund using dna/eb, you'll want to start making money off of those. To abuse a method
you found that works on a specific store, you need a few things. You need a new billing name
and address, a new shipping name and address, and a new payment method. That's because if
you keep refunding under the same info, they'll eventually just stop refunding that
name/address/payment method. The billing, shipping, and payment info are the three ways
companies are able to easily cross reference your information to check if you have any history
of being given refunds. If all three of those come up clean, you're probably going to get the
refund if you know what you're doing (especially under $500). The new payment method and
billing info issues are solved by privacy (dot) com, you get a new card that lets you put any
billing info every time.

The new shipping address is tougher, but as a beginner, I recommend the zillow method. Go on
zillow, and look up houses for sale within a few miles of you. Find one that looks suitable, and
call the real estate agent that listed the property. Ask a few questions as if you are an interested
buyer (is price firm, why is the owner selling, etc) then slip in a question asking if it is currently
occupied or if it's empty and ready to move in. If it's not being lived in, hop in your car and drive
over to it. See if it has a mailbox, or if there's a place on the block where all the mailboxes are,
are they locked or not, etc. Just generally get to know the property, and use common sense to
see if it would be good for a drop address for a week or two. If it has a mailbox with a lock, you
either need to only order items that are shipped in a box larger than the mailbox could hold and
would have to be left on the porch, or choose a new address.

If the property looks good, then you just steal that address and put it as the billing and shipping
information, as well as a name of your choosing. Then you can place a few orders for a few of
the stores you've found that work with a method listed above in your testing phase, pick up the
items, and then pick a new address and rinse and repeat. You can probably run up another $5-
10k in small refunds doing this, but make sure to place legitimate orders using privacy as well,
as they'll eventually close your account if every order is getting refunded. Also make sure to use
a good variety of stores, they don't like when you abuse one store using their cards.

Beginner Store List Creation Strategy:

This part is usually what trips people up, but it isn't hard, it's just tedious work. First thing you're
gonna want to do, is sign up for an ebay account, a stock x account, and an amazon fba
account under your own info. Then, you're gonna sign up for a selleramp account (you can get
an infinite free trial of selleramp with privacy (dot) com). Download the extension and sign in.
Next, go on amazon, and look up some popular branded shorts/pants/shoes/etc. Using the
selleramp stats (watch a youtube video on how it works, I'm not explaining that part), find items
that sell fast at a price that meets your roi. It should tell you how often a certain item sells in a
month, and it should tell you what your net profit will be after amazon takes their chunk in fba
fees. I generally shoot for a minimum of 50% of the retail value, but it can definitely go higher
than that. Then, you're gonna click on one of the sellers who are listing that item. On their
profile, scroll until you see their products listed. This is likely a goldmine of other items that sell
fast for a good roi, but use selleramp to check anyways.

Repeat this process a few times, until you have a nice long list of items to potentially refund.
Then look into which stores sell the item, and order like $200 worth of it. Try a simple dna, then
eb if that fails, and then if that fails, just return it. Then try a different store for the same item, or
a new item altogether. Using this process of trial and error in a no risk setting (because you can
just return it for no loss if you fail), you should be able to put together a good fat solid list of both
stores and items you can refund. This process shouldn't ever end, because what people buy
changes. As you reach the end of your testing list, go back to amazon and use selleramp and
the strategy I just gave you to fill the list back up again.

Beginner Cashout:

The easiest place to sell your refunded items is 100% via FBA on amazon. They'll take a chunk
in fees, and you cannot do this under your own name forever, but it'll work for a while. I
recommend watching a few youtube videos to understand how selling on amazon via fba works
normally, because selling refunded items is the exact same except that you don't have any
invoices for your items that you can use (duh) and you don't have to pay for your items, you get
them for free. However, there are some issues that make this an impermanent solution.
Eventually, a customer will make a complaint, or you'll pass a certain threshold in sales, and
amazon will demand invoices for all the items you've sold that year. This is obviously not ideal,
and best case scenario you avoid this happening at all. You can do that by avoiding selling
items most likely to be reported as fake (shoes for example) on amazon, whereas things like
shorts or blenders are less likely to cause issues for your account. Even if you never get fucked
over by amazon, you shouldn't rely on this completely or as a long term solution.

Ebay and stock x are alternate websites you can sell stuff on, but the same issues that make
amazon an imperfect solution make these a temporary one as well. While these are all
imperfect solutions, they will work 100% for a beginner. For any one of these three accounts to
get closed, you'd have had to move thousands of dollars through it, which prompted an invoice
request you were unable to fulfill. Selling cheap (<$100) items and cashing out frequently
should save you from a large amount of funds being locked in one of these accounts, but again,
the goal is to avoid locking these entirely. Once you have made a few thousand in profit
(somewhere around 5 grand), you're ready to move on to intermediate level cash out methods
and this is no longer really relevant to you, which should be before you have any account
closure issues.

Beginner Overall Refunding Strategy:


To summarize all of this information into a basic step by step guide, you first

1. Create an amazon fba, stock x, and ebay seller account.


2. Get a free trial of selleramp using privacy and download the extension.
3. Find items that sell many times a month for a solid roi (>50%) using the seller amp extension
on amazon.
4. Click on the profile of one of the sellers of that item on amazon, and find all the products they
have listed, and check their relevant stats on selleramp
5. Rinse and repeat this process, making a list of all the items that fit your criteria
6. Find out which stores sell the items on your list (besides amazon obviously), and notate them
on your list
7. One by one, using your personal payment info, order about $2-400 of the item you're testing
from a store. Claim dna, then if that fails, eb, and if that fails, return the items for no loss. Notate
the results, and repeat until you've tested your entire list
8. Now that you know a few stores that will refund you using whichever method you used, you're
ready to make some money. Set up a privacy (dot) com account, and find a drop address near
you using the zillow method explained above.
9. Generate 2-3 cards, and place 2-3 orders (under the $500 threshold) for some of the items
you've already tested, one store per card, and ship them to the drop address you selected.
10. Pick up the packages, and refund the orders.
11. Sell them on amazon via fba, set the price at like 10-15% less than other sellers for fastest
sales.
12. Rinse and repeat the steps as needed until you have a solid foundation (around $5k) to fund
your accession to intermediate level refunder.

Authors note:

I stuck to some really basic actual methods in this beginners guide, and I didn't really elaborate
on any of the ftid methods. That's because, as I keep saying, the most important part of this is
honing your se skills. Learning how to refund small orders consistently gives you the foundation
and the building blocks you need to eventually start refunding larger orders consistently. If you
have good se, and you combine that with some of the ftid scans, your odds of getting a refund
are much better than if you just throw an ftid at it and pray. In the next guide, the intermediate
section, I'll be covering ftid and when/how you use it, a better solution for drop addresses,
different payment methods for larger orders, new refunding strategies, and more! The next
guide drops in a few days, so stay tuned, and show some love if this helped you out!

Tips and Tricks:

1. Always call, never use chat. Customer Service agents can easily save chat transcript logs for
future agents to look at, so if you fail your se, you can't just open a new chat and try again,
because they'll be able to see your previous attempt. If you call, there is no easily accessible
record, so you can just try over and over again.
2. If you fail, try again and again and again. You should call no less than 5 times before giving
up as a rule of thumb. A lot of times, getting a new rep actually changes the outcome.
3. Be polite! Stay on the reps good side! Nothing good can come of pissing the rep off.

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