FFS-625 SFP XPC Clutch Replacement Instruction
FFS-625 SFP XPC Clutch Replacement Instruction
FFS-625 SFP XPC Clutch Replacement Instruction
: FFS-625
Written by: RS
Rev. 00 / 08.04.2016
Page 1 of 8
Contents
1 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 2
1.1 Safety precautions 2
1.2 Reference drawings and documentation 2
1.3 Needed tools and chemicals 2
2 PREPARATION 3
3 DISMANTLING FROM FOUNDATION 3
4 DISMOUNT PUMP CASING 4
5 DISMANTLING /ASSEMBLY TRANSMISSION 5
6 ASSEMBLY CLUTCH AND SHAFT 7
7 CLOSE CASING 8
1 GENERAL DESCRIPTION
• This document is made for use for clutch replacement of the SFP-XPC pump units
designed by FFS AS.
• The installation and assembly must be performed by qualified personnel. The directives
given in this manual must be followed closely.
2 Preparation
1) Open hatch cover located above the Hydraulic Block and inspect clutch condition inside
casing. Check if clutch discs are free or stucked (welded) together. Check if clutch housing
is dark/blue coloured due to overheating. If not coloured, clutch disc replacement should
not be neccesary
a. If discs are free, but housing dark/blue colorized: This tells the clutch has slipped,
but if the slipping time is limited it still may be possibility the discs are not
damaged. Reason for slipping may be related to low hydraulic pressure whch can
be:
i. Low Oil quantity (alarm Clutch pressure)
ii. Damaged oil pump (alarm Clutch pressure)
iii. Suction problem for oil pump (alarm Clutch pressure)
iv. Faulty Pressure valve (alarm Clutch pressure)
v. Too much Throttling of clutch engagement by valve located behind Clutch
pressure gauge (alarm Clutch pressure may not activate)
vi. Leakage in piping for clutch oil supply from hydraulic block
vii. Worn oil supply ring (alarm Clutch pressure may not activate)
b. If discs are stucked (welded: This tells the clutch has slipped and maust be
replaced/overhauled. Reason for slipping is same as explaned in 2a.
1) Turn transmission pump unit with pump casing upwards. Support Casing on input side
face with input shaft/flange hanging free.
2) Remove nuts w/washer holding pump casing, item 10,11
3) Lift off the pump casing, item 1
4) Remove impeller end cap w/screw, item 8,9
5) Jack off pump impeller. It is possible to use 2xM20 holes at pcd180mm, but normally it is
possible to easy and carefully jack it from impeller backside.
6) Remove the impeller shaft key
7) Protect the shaft with tape to avoid scratching the shaft seal (Lip seal)
8) Notice the Lip seal behind the impeller which is to be very carefully handled when casing
cover is removed (item 17).
9) Remove the oil cooler (if applilcable) by dismantle 3x M10 socket screws to pump cover,
and 4x M8 Hex head screws to casing. Then Cooler can be pulled out horizontally.
7 CLOSE CASING
Apply silicone seal on Transmission Casing’s mating surfaces – be sure to cover the whole
surface with suitable brush. Apply the fibre Gasket casing 250XPC:618A-1172-A,
300XPC:4000244
Put attention and take care with shaft sealing (simmering and Lip Seal). Apply grease to protect
and for safe assembly.
(
Lift Pump Cover onto Transmission Casing in correct position. Ensure 2pcs Guide pinns are not
jet fitted. They are to be fitted when there is a gap of 3-5mm between “Casing” and “Pump cover”
to align before mating togheter.
Fit the “Socket Screws” for the “Pump Cover” and tightening to torque 50Nm in sequence. When
complete, retighten for checking all bolts are with corret torque. Also re-tight 50Nm in sequience
after approx. 10hours settling time (can be done after installed back, just before test-run)
Fit impeller with key and shaft-end cap (OKS). Apply Loctite 243 on the M10 bolt and tightening
torque 50Nm
Install Pump casing. Ensure the big O-ring is without damage and applied with grease for smooth
engagement. Ensure O-ring groove and mating counter surface is clean and smooth.