International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research

and Science (IJAERS)

Peer-Reviewed Journal
ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)
Vol-11, Issue-11; Nov, 2024
Journal Home Page Available: https://ijaers.com/
Article DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.1111.4

Periodic Water Waves: Cnoidal and Solitary Profiles

Syawaluddin Hutahaean

Ocean Engineering Program, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering-Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB), Bandung 40132,
Indonesia.
syawalf1@yahoo.co.id

Received: 02 Oct 2024, Abstract— This research formulates the water surface elevation
Receive in revised form: 01 Nov 2024, equation for water waves, yielding periodic cnoidal and solitary wave
profiles. The equation is derived by integrating the Kinematic Free
Accepted: 08 Nov 2024,
Surface Boundary Condition with respect to time. The relationships
Available online: 12 Nov 2024 among wave period, wave amplitude, and proportional wavelength
©2024 The Author(s). Published by AI facilitate the generation of both cnoidal and solitary wave profiles. In
Publication. This is an open-access article under deep water, where wave dynamics are unaffected by the sea bottom, only
the CC BY license cnoidal wave profiles are produced. In contrast, solitary profiles emerge
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). through the shoaling-breaking process as waves approach shallower
depths.
Keywords— cnoidal-solitary wave profile

I. INTRODUCTION Both cnoidal and solitary wave profiles are distinguished by

Wilson (1963) classifies wave profiles into four distinct their high crest elevations, with most of the wave profile
categories: sinusoidal, Stokes, cnoidal, and solitary profiles. remaining above the still-water level. In the case of solitary
Sinusoidal and Stokes profiles are typically observed in waves, the entire profile stays above this level. Due to their
waves with small amplitudes. high crest elevations, these wave profiles play a critical role
The theory of cnoidal waves was first developed by in the design and elevation of coastal structures, as they
Korteweg and de Vries in 1895, based on observations of exert significant forces on such structures. Thus, identifying
wave behavior in canals, thereby confirming their the appropriate wave profile at a planned construction site
occurrence in natural environments. Cnoidal waves are is essential.
characterized by a marked asymmetry between the crest and This research conducts a comprehensive analysis of wave
trough, with the wave surface predominantly elevated profiles, including assessments in both deep and shallow
above the still-water level. The crest presents a steep water, specifically examining wave behavior before and
gradient, while the trough descends below the still-water after the breaking point. The water surface elevation
level more gradually. equation used for analyzing wave profiles is derived by
Solitary wave profiles, in contrast, are defined by the fact integrating the Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition
that the entire wave surface remains above the still-water equation.
level. This phenomenon was first identified by John Scott
Russell in 1844 during laboratory experiments, with the II. PRELIMINARY
theoretical foundation later provided by Joseph Boussinesq a. Axis System
in 1871. Like cnoidal waves, solitary wave profiles have In this research, an axis system was used, where 𝑥 is the
been observed in nature. horizontal axis and 𝑧 is the vertical axis.
Research on cnoidal waves is extensive, with Fenton (1979) b. Weighted Taylor Series
contributing significantly to the development of cnoidal The Weighted Taylor series is a truncated form of the
wave theory in the context of periodic waves. This research Taylor series, limited to the first-order term. In this
also extends the analysis of periodic cnoidal waves. formulation, coefficients are introduced to the first
derivative term, referred to as weighing coefficients.

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(11)-2024

Weighted Taylor series on function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡), 2𝐺𝑘 tanh 𝜃𝜋 𝑘𝐴

𝐴= cosh 𝜃𝜋 ( − ) ……(6)
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 √𝛾𝑧 2
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) + 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛿𝑡 + 𝛾𝑥 𝛿𝑥
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 𝜃 is the deep water coefficient where tanh 𝜃𝜋 ≈ 1. In this
……(1) research, 𝜃 = 3.0 is used to reduce wave height near the
Weighted Taylor series on function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡), coastline. In previous studies, 𝜃 = 1.94 was used to obtain
Ƌ𝑓 𝐻𝑏
𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑧 + 𝛿𝑧, 𝑡 + 𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) + 𝛾𝑡,3 𝛿𝑡 + = 0.78, where 𝐻𝑏 is the breaking wave height and ℎ𝑏 is
Ƌ𝑡 ℎ𝑏
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
𝛾𝑥 𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧 …………(2) the breaking water depth. With this 𝜃 value, a large wave
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧
height is observed near and at the coastline, where for a
𝛾𝑡,2 , 𝛾𝑡,3 , 𝛾𝑥 and 𝛾𝑧 are weighting coefficients. This research wave with a period of 8 seconds, a wave height of 2.0 meters
employed the equation 𝛾𝑡,2 = 1.999595 , 𝛾𝑡,3 = 3.009774 can occur at a water depth of 1.0 meter.
, 𝛾𝑥 = 0.997583 and 𝛾𝑧 = 1.022911. No significant gap
is found between 𝛾𝑥 on function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) and 𝛾𝑥 on function III. WATER SURFACE ELEVATION
𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡). EQUATION
The equation for water surface elevation is derived from the
The weighting coefficients and the values of the weighting
integration of the Kinematic Free Surface Boundary
coefficients were measured based on the formula proposed
Condition with respect to time, utilizing the complete
by Hutahaean (2023).
velocity potential.

c. Kinematic free Surface Boundary Condition ɸ(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐺 cosh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝑧) (cos 𝑘𝑥 +

Using the weighted Taylor series, the Kinematic Free sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) sin 𝜎𝑡 …….(7)
Surface Boundary Condition is This equation is substituted into the Kinematic Free Surface
Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝜂
𝑤𝜂 = 𝛾𝑡,2 + 𝛾𝑥 𝑢𝜂 …….(3) Boundary Condition and integrated with respect to time 𝑡.
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
Or 𝐺𝑘𝑧
Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝜂 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝜂) (cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡
𝛾𝑡,2 = 𝑤𝜂 − 𝛾𝑥 𝑢𝜂 …….(4) 𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
𝛾𝑥 𝐺 𝑘𝑥 Ƌ𝜂
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) represents the equation for the water surface + cosh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝜂) (−sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 +
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 Ƌ𝑥
elevation relative to the still water level, 𝑤𝜂 is the surface
cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡 …….(8)
vertical water particle velocity, and 𝑢𝜂 is the surface
horizontal water particle velocity. This equation is highly implicit and nonlinear, where the
right-hand side contains 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) as a hyperbolic function.
d. Velocity potential The calculations are performed in a stepwise manner as
The velocity potential equation, which is the solution to the follows.
Laplace equation (Hutahaean, 2023) under the condition 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = 𝐴(cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡
sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 = cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥, is Ƌ𝜂
ɸ(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 2 𝐺 cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 cosh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜎𝑡 = 𝑘𝑥 (−sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡
Ƌ𝑥
……..(5) 𝐺𝑘𝑧
ɸ(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) is velocity potential. 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝜂) (cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎
2𝜋
𝜎= is angular frequency and 𝑇 is wave period. 𝛾𝑥 𝐺 𝑘𝑥 Ƌ𝜂
𝑇
𝑘 + cosh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝜂) (−sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 +
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 Ƌ𝑥
𝑘𝑥 = is wave number on horizontal axis
√𝛾𝑥
cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡 …..(9)
𝑘
𝑘𝑧 = is wave number of the vertical axis
√𝛾𝑧 The wave profile is constructed at a specific value of cos 𝜎𝑡
𝑘𝑥 ≈ 𝑘𝑧 ≈ 𝑘, 𝑘 is wave number. Although the difference using cos 𝜎𝑡 = 1, over one wavelength, which is defined for
between 𝑘𝑥 and 𝑘𝑧 is very small, in this research they are 𝜋 ≤ 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 ≤ 3.0𝜋.
still distinguished to maintain calculation accuracy.
𝐺 is the wave constant, which, with dimensions of
𝑚. 𝑚/𝑠𝑒𝑐, can be referred to as the wave energy IV. WAVE NUMBER OF DEEP WATER
transmission rate. In this section, the wave number equation for deep water is
By integrating the kinematic free surface boundary formulated using the water surface elevation equation, to
condition, Hutahaean (2024a) obtained the wave amplitude obtain a wave number that is consistent with the water
function as: surface elevation equation.

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(11)-2024

The maximum water surface elevation is achieved when While Equation (11) is derived from Equation (9), it yields
Ƌ𝜂 a water surface elevation characterized by 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 − 𝜂𝑚𝑖𝑛 <
= 0. Under this condition, the second term in (9) is zero:
Ƌ𝑥
𝐻. To satisfy the condition 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 − 𝜂𝑚𝑖𝑛 = 𝐻, thus equation
𝐺𝑘𝑧
𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 = sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝜂) (cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡 (11) must be adjusted by introducing a coefficient given by:
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎
tanh 𝜃𝜋
𝑘0 = 1.142𝑥(2 − √2) ……(12)
The maximum water surface elevation relative to its 𝐴0 √𝛾𝑧

stationary point or still water level is equal to the wave

amplitude:
The coefficient 1.1421 is notably close to 1.0, indicating
𝐺𝑘𝑧 that Equation (11) aligns well with (9).
𝐴= sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝐴) (cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥) cos 𝜎𝑡
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎
The maximum elevation occurs when cos 𝜎𝑡 = 1. V. WAVE PROFILE IN DEEP WATER AT
𝐺𝑘𝑧 MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHT
𝐴= sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝐴) (cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥 + sin 𝑘𝑥 𝑥)
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 This section focuses on the analysis of wave profiles at
In (9), the second term is zero if cos 𝑘𝑥 = sin 𝑘𝑥. maximum wave height during a specific wave period. The
Therefore, this condition provides an effect equivalent to maximum wave height in deep water is defined by the
Ƌ𝜂 Wiegel equation (1949-1964):
= 0. Under the condition of cos 𝑘𝑥 = sin 𝑘𝑥,
Ƌ𝑥
𝑔𝑇 2
2𝐺𝑘𝑧 𝐻0 = …….(13)
15.62
𝐴= sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝐴) cos 𝑘𝑥 𝑥
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 Or Hutahaean (2024a),
1
If cos 𝑘𝑥 = sin 𝑘𝑥, the value of cos 𝑘𝑥 = tanh 𝜃𝜋 2 𝑔
√2 𝐻0 = ( ) ……...(14)
√𝛾𝑧 𝜎 2 𝛾𝑡,2 𝛾𝑡,3
√2𝐺𝑘𝑧
𝐴= sinh 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝐴) Both formulations yield the same maximum wave height.
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎
𝐴
In the deep water, 𝑘𝑧 (ℎ + 𝐴) = 𝑘𝑧 ℎ (1 + ) ≈ 𝑘𝑧 ℎ (1 +
ℎ The calculated values of 𝐻0 and 𝐿0 across various wave
𝐴
) ≈ 𝜃𝜋, where tanh 𝜃𝜋 ≈ 1.0, periods, along with their wave profile characteristics
2ℎ
including critical wave steepness and wave profile criteria
√2𝐺𝑘𝑧 based on Wilson (1963) are presented in Table 1.
𝐴= sinh 𝜃𝜋
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎
Table 1: Wave Profile Characteristics in Deep Water
𝑘
Since 𝑘𝑧 = , 𝑇 𝐻0 𝐿0
√𝛾𝑧 𝐻0 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
√2𝐺𝑘 (sec) (m) (m) 𝐿0 𝐻0
𝐴= sinh 𝜃𝜋 …..(10)
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 √𝛾𝑧
2 0.161 0.767 0.211 0.864
The wave amplitude in this equation must be equal to the
3 0.363 1.725 0.211 0.864
wave amplitude in (6).
4 0.646 3.067 0.211 0.864
√2𝐺𝑘 2𝐺𝑘 tanh 𝜃𝜋 𝑘𝐴
sinh 𝜃𝜋 = cosh 𝜃𝜋 ( − ) 5 1.009 4.793 0.211 0.864
𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎√𝛾𝑧 𝛾𝑡,2 𝜎 √𝛾𝑧 2
6 1.453 6.902 0.211 0.864

tanh 𝜃𝜋 tanh 𝜃𝜋 𝑘𝐴 7 1.978 9.394 0.211 0.864

= √2 ( − )
𝛾
√ 𝑧 √𝛾𝑧 2 8 2.583 12.27 0.211 0.864
9 3.269 15.529 0.211 0.864
tanh 𝜃𝜋
𝑘0 = (2 − √2) …….(11) 10 4.036 19.172 0.211 0.864
𝐴0 √𝛾𝑧

The equation provided represents the wave number 11 4.884 23.198 0.211 0.864
equation applicable in deep water, with the index 0 12 5.812 27.607 0.211 0.864
indicating that the wave amplitude pertains to deep water 13 6.822 32.4 0.211 0.864
conditions.
14 7.911 37.576 0.211 0.864
15 9.082 43.136 0.211 0.864

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(11)-2024

16 10.333 49.079 0.211 0.864 In Figure 2, the wave profile is illustrated for a wave period
17 11.665 55.406 0.211 0.864 of 𝑇 = 8.0 sec with a wave height of 𝐻0 = 2.583 𝑚. The
resulting wave profile is identified as a cnoidal profile.
18 13.078 62.116 0.211 0.864
Waves with wave period 𝑇 = 2.0 𝑠𝑒𝑐. and wave height
𝐻0
In Table (1), represents the wave steepness. Given that 𝐻0 = 0.161 𝑚. are also cnoidal (Fig(3)).
𝐿0
𝐻0
𝐻0 is defined as the maximum wave height, the resulting 2.5
𝐿0
reflects the critical wave steepness. Research by Toffoli et 2
al. (2010) established a critical wave steepness threshold of 1.5

η(m)
0.170, recommending a value of 0.200. The critical wave 1
𝐻0
steepness derived from this research is = 0.211, 0.5
𝐿0
indicating that the wavelength obtained aligns closely with 0
the findings of Toffoli et al. -0.5
𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21
represents the wave profile criteria as defined by
𝐻0 x (m)
Wilson (1963). This criterion is detailed in Table 2 and
𝜂
illustrated in Fig 1. The value 𝑚𝑎𝑥 is 0.864, which,
𝐻0 Fig.2: Wave profile, wave period 𝑇 = 8.0, 𝐻0 = 2.583 𝑚,
according to the Wilson criterion in Table 2, classifies the 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
= 0.864 𝑚.
𝐻0
wave profile as a cnoidal profile.
Table 2: Water wave profile criteria (Wilson (1963)))
Wave type 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
0.55
𝐻
0.45
Airy/sinusoidal waves < 0.505
0.35
η(m)

Stoke’s waves 0.505 − 0.635 0.25

Cnoidal waves 0.635 − 1 0.15
0.05
Solitary waves =1
-0.05
0 0.5 1 1.5 2
x (m)

Fig.3: Wave profile, wave period 𝑇 = 2.0, 𝐻0 = 0.161 𝑚,

𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
= 0.864.
𝐻0

The findings of this section indicate that the wave profile

generated by the system of equations specifically, the
maximum wave height equation, the wave number
equation, and the water surface elevation equation in deep
water yields a cnoidal wave profile.

VI. SHOALING-BREAKING MODEL

The shoaling-breaking model employed in this research is
based on the framework developed by Hutahaean (2023).
As waves propagate from point 𝑥 with water depth ℎ𝑥
towards 𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, at small 𝛿𝑥, with water depth ℎ𝑥+𝛿𝑥 show
Fig.1: Wave profile for Wilson (1963) criteria.
changes in the parameters as follows.
Ƌ𝑘 4𝑘 𝑑ℎ
= − (4ℎ+3𝐴) ……(15)
Ƌ𝑥 𝑑𝑥

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(11)-2024

Ƌ𝑘
𝑘𝑥+𝛿𝑥 = 𝑘𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥 3.5
Ƌ𝑥 3
Ƌ𝐴 𝐺 Ƌ𝑘 1 𝑘𝐴 2.5
= ( − ) cosh(𝜃𝜋) …….(16)
Ƌ𝑥 𝜎𝛾𝑡,2 Ƌ𝑥 √𝛾𝑧 2 2

η(m)
Ƌ𝐴 1.5
𝐴𝑥+𝛿𝑥 = 𝐴𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥 1
Ƌ𝑥
1 0.5
ln 𝐺𝑥 − (ln 𝑘𝑥+𝛿𝑥 −ln 𝑘𝑥 )
𝐺𝑥+𝛿𝑥 = 𝑒 2 ……..(17) 0
-0.5
a. Results of Shoaling-Breaking Analysis with Wave Profile
4 6 8 10 12 14
In this section, a shoaling-breaking analysis is conducted on x (m)
waves characterized by a wave period of 𝑇 = 8.0 𝑠𝑒𝑐.,
wave height 𝐻0 = 2.583𝑚., deep water depth ℎ0 = 17.759 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
Fig.5: Wave profile at ℎ = 12.0 𝑚, = 0.959, 𝐻 =
m. The findings from this analysis are illustrated in Figure 𝐻
4, where the breaking wave height is 𝐻𝑏 = 3.298 m at a 3.016 𝑚
𝐻𝑏
breaker depth ℎ𝑏 = 6.921 𝑚, = 0.477. In this research,
ℎ𝑏
𝐻𝑏
the traditional criterion of = 0.78, has been set aside, as 3.5
ℎ𝑏
adherence to this standard resulted in excessively large 2.5
𝐻𝑏
wave heights near the coastline. If the criterion of = 0.78

η(m)
ℎ𝑏
1.5
d were to be utilized, it would necessitate a deep water
coefficient 𝜃 = 1.94. However, to ensure that the wave 0.5
height near the coastline remains manageable, a deep water
coefficient of 𝜃 = 3.0 was employed in this analysis. -0.5
2 4 6 8 10
x(m)
It is important to note that the breaking wave height
observed in this research differs from findings in previous
Fig.6: Wave profile at ℎ = 6.921 𝑚 (breaker depth),
research, such as Hutahaean (2024b). This discrepancy can 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
be attributed to the longer wavelength in deep water present = 1.0, 𝐻 = 3.298 𝑚
𝐻
in this research, which consequently leads to an increase in
wave energy.
3.5

2.5
3.5
η(m)

3 1.5
2.5
H (m)

2 0.5
1.5
1 -0.5
0.5 1 2 3 4 5
0 x(m)
0 5 10 15 20
h(m) 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
Fig.7: Wave profile at ℎ = 3.0 𝑚, = 1.0, 𝐻 =
𝐻
2.560 𝑚
Fig.4: The results of shoaling-breaking analysis

Subsequently, a wave profile analysis was carried out in

shallow water at a water depth. ℎ, 12.0 m, 6.921 m
(breaking point), 3.0 m ,1.0 m and 0.50 m .

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Hutahaean International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science, 11(11)-2024

3.5 0.996 the wave can be classified distinctly as a solitary

profile.
2.5
In a time series model, Hutahaean (2024b) corroborated
η(m)

1.5 these findings, demonstrating that the cnoidal profile

observed in deep water evolves into a solitary profile as it
0.5 transitions into shallower waters.

-0.5
0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 VII. CONCLUSION
x(m) The first conclusion drawn from this research is that the
system of equations, which includes the dispersion
𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
Fig.8: Wave profile at ℎ = 1.0 𝑚, = 1.00, 𝐻 = equation, wave height equation, and surface elevation
𝐻
0.895 𝑚 equation, generates both cnoidal and solitary wave profiles.
These profiles are characteristic of short waves commonly
observed in nature.
3.5 As cnoidal waves propagate from deep to shallow water,
they undergo a profile evolution, transitioning from a
2.5
cnoidal to a solitary wave form. This evolution is marked
η(m)

1.5 by an increase in the parameters governing the wave profile.

In shallow water, wave profiles are predominantly cnoidal
0.5
and/or solitary. For structural design in shallow water, it is
-0.5 recommended to use the solitary wave profile for both
0 0.5 1 1.5 elevation planning and wave force calculations. In contrast,
x(m) for deep-water conditions, the cnoidal profile can be applied
when the Wilson criterion exceeds 0.8. However, for
𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
enhanced safety, it is advisable to use the solitary wave
Fig.9: Wave profile at ℎ = 0.5 𝑚, = 1.00, 𝐻 = profile, regardless of the water depth, to account for
𝐻
0.475 𝑚 potential extreme wave forces.

Table 3: Wave Profile Summary REFERENCES

ℎ 𝐻 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 Profile [1] Wilson, B.W. (1963). Condition of Existence for Types of
𝐻 Tsunami Waves, paper presented at XIIIth Assembly IUGG,
(m) (m) Berkeley, California, August 1963 (unpublish).
17.87 2.583 0.864 Cnoidal [2] Korteweg, D.J. and De Vries, J. (1895). On the Change of
Form of Longwaves Advancing, in a Rectangular Canal, and
12.0 3.016 0.959 Cnoidal
on a New Type of Long stationary Waves. Phil.Mag., 5 th
6.921 3.298 1.0 Solitary Series, Vol. 39, pp. 422-443.
[3] Russel, J.S., 1844. Report on Waves. 14th Meeting Brit.
3.0 2.560 1.0 Solitary
Assoc. Adv. Sci., pp. 311-390.
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[5] Fenton, J.D. (1979). A High Order Cnoidal Wave Theory. J.
In deep water, as illustrated in Figure 2, the wave profile is
𝜂 Fluid Mechanic. 94, 129-161.
characterized as cnoidal, with a ratio of 𝑚𝑎𝑥 = 0.864. As [6] Hutahaean, S. (2023). Method for Determining Weighting
𝐻0
the wave progresses towards the coastline, this cnoidal Coefficients in Weighted Taylor Series Applied to Water
profile undergoes significant evolution, primarily through Wave Modeling. International Journal of Advance
𝜂 Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS). Vol. 10, Issue
an increase in the value of 𝑚𝑎𝑥 as presented in Table 2.
𝐻 12; Dec, 2023, pp 105-114. Article DOI:
This transformation ultimately leads to the formation of a https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.1012.11.
𝜂
solitary wave profile. At the breaking point, where 𝑚𝑎𝑥 = [7] Hutahaean, S. (2024a). The Relationship Between Wave
𝐻
Period, Deep Water Wave and Breaking Wave Heights,

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Formulated Using Wave Amplitude Function . Journal of

Advance Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS). Vol.
11, Issue 9; Sep, 2024, pp 8-15. Article DOI:
https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.119.1.
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[9] Wiegel,R.L. (1964). Oceanographical Engineering,
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[10] Toffoli, A., Babanin, A., Onaroto, M. and Wased, T. (2010).
Maximum steepness of oceanic waves : Field and laboratory
experiments.Geophysical Research Letters. First published
09 March 2010.https://doi.org/10.1029/2009GL.0441771
[11] Hutahaean, S. (2024b). Applying Weighted Taylor Series
on Time Series Water Wave Modeling. International
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