Twisted Sisters Knit Sweaters
Twisted Sisters Knit Sweaters
Twisted Sisters Knit Sweaters
Lynne Vogel
48 the twisted sisters knit sweaters 49
Designer Notes
I handpainted four 6-ounce skeins of kid mohair bouclé Because the colorways had so many similar colors, these
from Ashland Bay in four different coordinating colorways, transitional stripes are not obvious. I used the skeins with
each successive colorway having an increasing amount the least amount of peacock blue at the hem and cuffs
of peacock blue. I balanced the “composition” by knitting (the smallest area) and worked to the neck and shoulder
large areas of different sizes in different colorways. For a line with successively bluer skeins so that most of the bril-
painterly effect, I smoothed the transition between col- liant color frames the face.
orways by knitting 2 rows of each color for several inches.
48 the twisted sisters knit sweaters 49
Designer Notes
I handpainted four 6-ounce skeins of kid mohair bouclé Because the colorways had so many similar colors, these
from Ashland Bay in four different coordinating colorways, transitional stripes are not obvious. I used the skeins with
each successive colorway having an increasing amount the least amount of peacock blue at the hem and cuffs
of peacock blue. I balanced the “composition” by knitting (the smallest area) and worked to the neck and shoulder
large areas of different sizes in different colorways. For a line with successively bluer skeins so that most of the bril-
painterly effect, I smoothed the transition between col- liant color frames the face.
orways by knitting 2 rows of each color for several inches.
Lynne’s Boucle Boatneck - Up and Down
TSS - Vogel, Chapter 3
50 the twisted sisters knit sweaters [3-4Chapter
TSS - Vogel, graph]
Lynne’s Boucle Boatneck - Up and Down
3 a knit-to-fit workshop 51
[3-4 graph]
Measure your body and allow for the appropriate amount of ease (see page 14) or measure a sweater that fits the way you like and enter the numbers below. Refer to your Centerline/shoulder
Cast-on row
line
gauge swatch for your stitch and row gauges, then translate each measurement into numbers of stitches and/or rows as you go along. Knitting direction
Cast-on row
Number of yards/pounds used: 1,290 yards; 151/2 ounces Cast-On Stitches: 81 stitches
(54 sts)
Gauge Length Without Edging: NA
Stitches per inch (in stockinette stitch: 3 Rows per inch: 51/2 Length of Lower Edging: NA
Sleeves
141⁄2" (80 rows)
Measure your body and allow for the appropriate amount of ease (see page 14) or measure a sweater that fits the way you like and enter the numbers below. Refer to your Centerline/shoulder
Cast-on row
line
gauge swatch for your stitch and row gauges, then translate each measurement into numbers of stitches and/or rows as you go along. Knitting direction
Cast-on row
Number of yards/pounds used: 1,290 yards; 151/2 ounces Cast-On Stitches: 81 stitches
(54 sts)
Gauge Length Without Edging: NA
Stitches per inch (in stockinette stitch: 3 Rows per inch: 51/2 Length of Lower Edging: NA
Sleeves
141⁄2" (80 rows)
Rectangle Vest
1 Determine Gauge 6 Knit the Bodice Front
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 17). Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 22),
This simple side-to-side vest is a cardigan variation of a modified drop shoulder
using a backward-loop cast-on and a chain bind-off, and
2 Determine Bodice eliminating the neckline shaping to form a boat neck sweater with a boat neck and no sleeves. The fronts fold down at the neck, giving
Circumference and Length (page 38).
a V shape to the neckline. Instead of knitting the entire back from side seam to side
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 17),
allowing ease for an oversized fit. 7 Determine Sleeve Dimensions seam as in the Side-to-Side Classic Crew, I knitted the back in two halves, begin-
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 22).
ning with a provisional cast-on along the centerline. Each front is worked from the
3 Determine Stitch Count
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 18). 8 Determine Sleeve Taper center, beginning with the overlapping seed stitch edgings, outward to the side
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 24).
seams. This way, the bind-off edges for the fronts and back are all aligned at the
4 Knit the Bodice Back
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 18), 9 Knit the Sleeves sides so they will behave similarly in the seams. For simplicity, the edgings are knit-
using a backward-loop cast-on (Glossary, page 133) and a Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 26), ted as part of the front and back fabric. The fronts close with a single button at the
chain bind-off (Glossary, page 131). picking up stitches around the armhole and working from
shoulder to cuff, ending with a chain bind-off. top of the overlapping seed stitch bands.
5 Determine Front Neckline
Width and Depth 10 Join Seams
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 19), but Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 27),
substitute a boat-neck shaping (page 38). using a mattress stitch. Designer Notes
11 Add Edgings Originally inspired by the armhole shaping of Mary Kaiser’s Daisy Stitch Vest (page
Eliminate this step. 127), I designed this vest for the beginning knitter. It is just rectangles without any
shaping. At the time, I had no idea how valuable this pattern would become. I’ve
12 Finishing Touches used it as a template for vests and jackets ever since (for example, the Autumn Vest
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 27). on page 126). Now I don’t even have to think if I’m knitting with a worsted weight
yarn…I just cast on 95 stitches and start knitting, and I know it’s going to work out.
I find that when I cast on at the center back and work in both directions, I can
knit to fit much more easily than when I cast on at the side seam. Working from the
center out lets me shape my armholes after I have knitted most of the body, so I
can rip them out easily if they aren’t right.
I chose La Lana Wool Streakers because it has been a favorite of mine for years. I
began my designing career with La Lana’s Forever Random Blends and any of them
would look amazing in this vest.
52 the twisted sisters knit sweaters 53
Rectangle Vest
1 Determine Gauge 6 Knit the Bodice Front
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 17). Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 22),
This simple side-to-side vest is a cardigan variation of a modified drop shoulder
using a backward-loop cast-on and a chain bind-off, and
2 Determine Bodice eliminating the neckline shaping to form a boat neck sweater with a boat neck and no sleeves. The fronts fold down at the neck, giving
Circumference and Length (page 38).
a V shape to the neckline. Instead of knitting the entire back from side seam to side
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 17),
allowing ease for an oversized fit. 7 Determine Sleeve Dimensions seam as in the Side-to-Side Classic Crew, I knitted the back in two halves, begin-
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 22).
ning with a provisional cast-on along the centerline. Each front is worked from the
3 Determine Stitch Count
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 18). 8 Determine Sleeve Taper center, beginning with the overlapping seed stitch edgings, outward to the side
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 24).
seams. This way, the bind-off edges for the fronts and back are all aligned at the
4 Knit the Bodice Back
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 18), 9 Knit the Sleeves sides so they will behave similarly in the seams. For simplicity, the edgings are knit-
using a backward-loop cast-on (Glossary, page 133) and a Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 26), ted as part of the front and back fabric. The fronts close with a single button at the
chain bind-off (Glossary, page 131). picking up stitches around the armhole and working from
shoulder to cuff, ending with a chain bind-off. top of the overlapping seed stitch bands.
5 Determine Front Neckline
Width and Depth 10 Join Seams
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 19), but Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 27),
substitute a boat-neck shaping (page 38). using a mattress stitch. Designer Notes
11 Add Edgings Originally inspired by the armhole shaping of Mary Kaiser’s Daisy Stitch Vest (page
Eliminate this step. 127), I designed this vest for the beginning knitter. It is just rectangles without any
shaping. At the time, I had no idea how valuable this pattern would become. I’ve
12 Finishing Touches used it as a template for vests and jackets ever since (for example, the Autumn Vest
Work as for the Up-and-Down Classic Crew (page 27). on page 126). Now I don’t even have to think if I’m knitting with a worsted weight
yarn…I just cast on 95 stitches and start knitting, and I know it’s going to work out.
I find that when I cast on at the center back and work in both directions, I can
knit to fit much more easily than when I cast on at the side seam. Working from the
center out lets me shape my armholes after I have knitted most of the body, so I
can rip them out easily if they aren’t right.
I chose La Lana Wool Streakers because it has been a favorite of mine for years. I
began my designing career with La Lana’s Forever Random Blends and any of them
would look amazing in this vest.
Garter stitch [ 3-39]
sweater pieces (up and down or side to side) will determine whether you follow the stitch or row numbers (you only need to fill in the appropriate blank).
11⁄4" 1 ⁄ 4"
1
Key
Yarn Sweater Measurements Centerline/shoulder line
Stitches per inch (in seed stitch and garter stitch): 4.25 Back Neck Width Without Edging: 8 inches; 48 rows
Rows per inch: 7.5 Back Neck Width With Edging: NA 21⁄4"
11⁄4"
Needle size: US size 9 (5.5 mm; straight) Front Neck Depth Without Edging: 9 inches; 38 stitches 1 1⁄ 4"
21⁄4"
Notes/Variations
Tip Vest Map:
sweater pieces (up and down or side to side) will determine whether you follow the stitch or row numbers (you only need to fill in the appropriate blank).
11⁄4" 1 ⁄ 4"
1
Key
Yarn Sweater Measurements Centerline/shoulder line
Stitches per inch (in seed stitch and garter stitch): 4.25 Back Neck Width Without Edging: 8 inches; 48 rows
Rows per inch: 7.5 Back Neck Width With Edging: NA 21⁄4"
11⁄4"
Needle size: US size 9 (5.5 mm; straight) Front Neck Depth Without Edging: 9 inches; 38 stitches 1 1⁄ 4"
21⁄4"
Notes/Variations
Tip Vest Map:
Lynne Vogel’s Knitter Fitter System is a two-part method of sweater designing that
lets you create patterns based on your own body measurements and yarn gauge.
The Fitter List records all your key body measurements and the Sweater Map shows
how those measurements translate to numbers of knitted stitches and rows. In clear
language, Lynne will guide you through all the necessary steps to construct sweaters
from the bottom up (or top down), from side to side, or a combination of directions.
She’ll teach you how to make successful variations to necklines, sleeves, and shoulders,
and how to add color and stitch patterns, collars and edgings, no matter what size you
wear or yarn you use.
To show some of the infinite design possibilities, members of the (mostly) West Coast
knitting group, The Twisted Sisters show how Lynne’s Knitter Fitter System can:
• make every type of sweater imaginable—cardigans, pullovers, tunics, and vests
• be adapted to different yarn, proportions, neckline styles, sleeve styles, and collar
and edging types
• provide a foundation for infinite color and stitch-pattern variations
• enable the knitter to adjust each increasingly challenging project to their needs
regardless of body size or knitting gauge
Lynne Vogel is the author of The Twisted Sisters Sock Workbook. If she isn’t dye-
ing, spinning, knitting, crocheting, or weaving, you might try looking for her on
the many woodland trails around Sewanee, Tennessee, with husband, James,
and dog Monk. Or, she might be teaching a workshop in your neighborhood or
pickin’ and grinnin’ with a few friends at home.