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Copyright © 2018 by Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook
Photographs copyright © 2018 by Michael Persico
Photograph on page 103 by Inna Felker/Dreamstime and on page 105 by Rafael
Ben Ari/Dreamstime
All rights reserved.
For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,
write to trade.permissions@hmhco.com or to Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Publishing Company, 3 Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, NY 10016.
hmhco.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Names: Solomonov, Michael, author. | Cook, Steven (Restaurateur), author.
Title: Israeli soul : easy, essential, delicious / Michael Solomonov, Steven Cook.
Description: Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, [2018] | “A Rux Martin book.”
Identifiers: LCCN 2018017712 (print) | LCCN 2018021734 (ebook) | ISBN
9780544971271 (ebook) | ISBN 9780544970373 (paper over board) | ISBN
9781328633453 (special ed)
Subjects: LCSH: Cooking, Israeli. | Kosher food. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX724 (ebook) | LCC TX724.S636 2018 (print) | DDC
641.595694—dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018017712

Produced by Dorothy Kalins Ink, LLC

Art Direction by Don Morris Design
Recipe Editor: Peggy Paul Casella

v2.1018
To Evelyn Solomonov, Susan
Cook, and Laurel Rudavsky

“A mother understands what a

child does not say”
—JEWISH PROVERB
 Contents
Introduction
Israeli Soul Odyssey: Map
Resources

IN THE HAND

1. Falafel
Falafel Is Where Your Heart Is
Goldie Falafel
Tehina Variations
Tehina Ketchup
Schug Tehina
Harissa Tehina
Amba Tehina
It’s Always Lunchtime Somewhere
Fresh Green Garbanzo Falafel
English Pea Falafel
A Balance in Every Bite
Salad Variations
Green Garbanzo Falafel with Labneh and Pomegranate
English Pea Falafel with Herbed Tehina
Goldie Falafel with Herbs and Israeli Salad
Falafel Salad Vinaigrette
Goldie French Fries

2. Pita Bread
Pita Bread

3. Sabich
Sabich: It’s All About the Eggplant
HaKosem-Style Fried Eggplant
Baked Eggplant
Fire-Roasted Eggplant
Haminados
The Amba Mystique
Classic Mango Amba
Amba Variations
Apple Amba
Strawberry Amba
I Can’t Believe It’s Not Eggplant!
Battered Maitake Mushrooms
Potato-Leek Latke
4. Shawarma
Lamb Shoulder Shawarma
Chicken Thigh Shawarma
Rice Pilaf with Peas and Pistachios
Caramelized Fennel
Turkey Paillard
Opera-Style Chopped Salad
Cauliflower Shawarma

5. Druze Mountain Bread

Druze Mountain Bread

6. Jerusalem Grill
Jerusalem Mixed Grill
Jerusalem Grill Rice Pilaf with Pine Nuts
7. Schnitzel
Chicken Schnitzel
Zucchini Schnitzel

AT THE TABLE

8. Hummus
5-Minute Hummus with Quick Tehina Sauce
Same as It Ever Was
Spice Blends and Sauces
Shawarma Spice Blend #1
Shawarma Spice Blend #2
Shawarma Spice Blend #3
Hawaij Spice Blend
Fresh Harissa: North African Pepper Sauce
Fermented Harissa
Black Harissa: Black Garlic Chili Sauce
Peanut Harissa
Merguez Spice Blend
Muhammara: Red Bell Pepper Spread
Harif: Hot Sauce
Everyday Schug
Hummus Toppings
Tehina Chicken Salad
Saffron-Braised Chicken
Avocado with Peanut Harissa
Roasted Butternut Squash
Matbucha with Egg
Corn Salad
Onion Petals
Lima Beans with Tomato and Cinnamon
Ground Chicken with Amba
Japanese Eggplant with Muhammara
Salt-Roasted Kohlrabi with Garlic Chips
Carrots with Dukkah
Roasted Corn with Long Hots
Pickled Beets with Pistachios
Crispy Oyster Mushrooms
Charred Zucchini with Mint
Broccoli with Pine Nut Pesto
Braised Cabbage with Amba
Black-Eyed Peas
Lamb Meatballs
Ground Beef with Turkish Coffee
Pan-Roasted and Pickled Eggplant
Pan-Roasted Green Beans
Pan-Roasted Turnips with Dates and Harif
Charred Asparagus with Hazelnut Dukkah
9. Salads
Eight Quick Essential Salads
Turkish Salad
Radish and Zucchini Salad with Mint and Nigella Seeds
Chopped Salad
Grated Carrots with Chiles
Matbucha: Moroccan Cooked Tomato-and-Pepper Salad
Cabbage with Onion, Sumac, and Dill
Abe Fisher Beet Salad
Roasted Eggplant with Peppers
Fattoush with Corn: Lebanese Salad with Crispy Pita
Dill Tabbouleh
Mofarket Al Abed: Egg Salad from Akko
Chirshi: Libyan Squash Salad
Carrot Chrain
Mshawashe: Arabic Bean Salad
Turkish Eggplant
Chickpeas with Baharat, Tomatoes, and Brown Butter
Quick Pickled Lemons
Pickled Watermelon
10. Ashkenazi
Chicken Liver Mousse
Three Jews Walk into a Bar
Pickled Green Tomatoes
Quick Pickled Cucumbers
Rye Bread
Pickled Mackerel
Cured Trout
Smoked Whitefish Dip

11. Soups, Stews, Stuffed

Chamo Kubbe
Opera Bean Soup
Yemenite-Style Veal Osso Buco with Yellow Rice
Lamb Shank Siniya
Tomato Bulgur
Couscous
Vegetable Tagine
Beef Tongue with Beans
Brisket Stewed with Black-Eyed Peas
Persian Meatballs with Beet Sauce
Stuffed Grape Leaves with Pomegranate Molasses
Tomato Sauce
Spicy Tomato Sauce
Chicken Wrapped in Chard
Mafroum: Libyan Stuffed Potatoes
Stuffed Eggplant

12. Grilling
To Grill or Not
The Three Stages of Coal
Arabic-Style Kebabs
Freekah Mujadara
Romanian Kebabs
Bulgarian Kebabs
Merguez Kebabs
Ground Veal on Cinnamon Sticks
Sirloin Shishlik
Whole Butterflied Trout
Tunisian-Style Grilled Tuna

FROM THE BAKERY

13. Savory
Khachapuri
Yemenite Sabbath Bread: Kubaneh, Jachnun, and Malawach
Jachnun
Kubaneh
Grated Tomatoes
Malawach
Jerusalem Bagels
Olive Butter, Feta, and Tomato Toastim
Olive Butter
Salmon, Labneh, and Avocado Sandwich
Cured Salmon
This Is One Flaky Pastry
Borekas
Tomato Filling
Eggplant Filling
Kale and Feta Filling
Potato and Olive Filling
Boreka Sandwiches
14. Sweet
Konafi
Saffron Syrup
Malabi
Zalatimo
Yeasted Rugelach
Hamantaschen
Coconut Almond Basboosa
Mike Ran’s Mom’s Coffee Cake
Turkish Coffee
Easy Ma’amoul Cookies
Labneh Tart
Fried Challah Sufganiyot
Pistachio Cake
Sesame Brittle

FROM THE ICEBOX

15. Drinks & Cold Treats

Fruit Sodas
Pomegranate-Mint Syrup
Goldie Turmeric-Lime Syrup
Tarragon-Grapefruit Syrup
Celery-Parsley-Dill Syrup
Watermelon-Lime Syrup
Tehina Shakes
Coconut Syrup
Coconut Whip
Turkish Coffee Syrup
Halva
Mint Syrup
Artikim: The Art of Ice-Pops
Lemonnana
Strawberry-Labneh
Watermelon
Banana-Date
Acknowledgments
Index
About the Authors
Connect with HMH

Endpapers: Old City, Jerusalem: Muslim Quarter

Title pages: Ripe pomegranates, Galilee; the
Mediterranean at Caesarea
Dedication: Jerusalem
Introduction: Hills of Galilee, Fishing at Akko Map
illustration by Don Morris

Acknowledgments: Juice seller, Tzfat

Last page: Olives at Haim Rafael, Tel Aviv
Endpapers: Ancient olive trees, Galilee
 Introduction
By the time you read this, Israel will be seventy years old and
Zahav, our Israeli restaurant in Philadelphia, will be ten. For ten
years we’ve been calling Zahav a “modern Israeli restaurant,” but
that phrase has never felt particularly apt. After all, there’s
nothing modern about cooking pita in a wood-burning oven or
kebabs over a charcoal grill.
And yet, Israel is a modern country, formed within the lifetime
of some of its citizens. We’ve been puzzling our way through this
contradiction for the last decade. There is a common
misconception that Israeli food equals Middle Eastern food. But
this is a vast oversimplification that obscures a remarkable story.
The soul of Israeli cuisine lies in the journey these foods have
taken to the ends of the earth and back, to be woven together in a
nascent culture that is both ancient and modern.
 It is not just the food of pre-Mandate Palestine, a cuisine that,
in any case, was already familiar to the Jews of Iraq, Syria, and
Lebanon. Nor is it simply the collected recipes of European,
Balkan, and North African Jews returning to their ancestral
homeland.
For two millennia, Jews have been wandering the earth,
embracing the cultures and cuisines of their local hosts, adapting
them to their religious and dietary needs, and transmitting the
results at each stop along the way. The establishment of Israel in
1948 created a repository for all of these traditions—and a place
for them to evolve in strange and wonderful ways.

For us, Israeli soul is sabich, the now classic sandwich of fried
eggplant, hard-boiled egg, and the mango pickle amba that
developed in Israel from the Sabbath breakfast traditions of Iraqi
Jews. It is rugelach, the Ashkenazi pastry, here treated to the
Arabic practice of saturating pastries in syrup. It is borekas, the
stuffed savory pastries whose flaky dough made its way from
Spain, through the Ottoman Empire to Bulgaria, and finally to
Israel, where they are now a national obsession.
Like America, Israel is a product of migration. The vast
majority of Israelis are only a few generations removed from a
completely different life, in a completely different place. Food is a
bridge that connects them to their heritage—and to each other.
What is the taste of home? Can the memory of childhood be
captured in a single bite? How soulful and satisfying is the dish
that made its way from the Diaspora to be reborn in Israel? There
is a Hebrew expression, l’dor v’dor—literally “from generation to
generation.” It is the framework on which the survival of the
Jewish people has been built for thousands of years, assuring
that our values and traditions will outlive us. Our friend and
farmer Mark Dornstreich (of blessed memory) used to say that
it’s impossible to be a first-generation farmer. It takes longer than
a few years to establish a fruitful relationship with the land.
Maybe it’s the same with restaurants. A ten-year-old restaurant
like Zahav is practically geriatric in America. In Israel, it is a
toddler.
The parents of Rachel Arcovi, owner of the Hadera restaurant
Opera, moved to Tel Aviv from Yemen in 1911. The family lived
among immigrants from all over, and Rachel’s mother learned to
make Ashkenazi specialties like kugel, tzimmes, and gefilte fish,
which she cooked alongside the Yemenite staples she had learned
from her own mother. Her family moved north to Hadera in 1936,
sustaining itself any way it could, often by working in orchards or
packing plants. In 1974 Rachel took over Opera, a struggling
coffee house, which continued to struggle. Her son and his
friends, well aware of her gifts as a home cook, encouraged her to
use those talents and expand the menu. Forty-three years later,
Opera is an institution supporting three generations (and
counting).
 Opera’s Yemenite soup is transformative—Rachel still eats it
every day—but the money, she says, is in malawach, the flaky
Yemenite fry bread. In 1988, the family opened a malawach
factory, becoming the first to commercialize and help transform
an immigrant dish into a food beloved by Israelis of every
background. Eight of Rachel’s eleven grandchildren now work at
the restaurant or the factory. Last year the family opened a
bakery, where they make all their own pita.
The theme of second- and third-generation owners is one we
encountered again and again as we researched this book in Israel,
returning to old favorites and discovering new ones. There is a
dynastic quality to restaurants there, a sense that proprietors are
caretakers of traditions that must be preserved and passed
down. Even with first-generation owners—like Rafi Guetta, whose
Guetta is an homage to the Tripolitan cooking of his ancestors, or
Arik Rosenthal of HaKosem, a fastidious temple of falafel and
shawarma—we found an earnestness and respect for tradition,
along with an understanding that this food would remain relevant
only as long as it was delicious.
Such feelings were our guide in writing Israeli Soul. We have
developed recipes that help tell the story of Israel. And we have
taken special care to make them accessible and delicious. This is
food that’s meant to be cooked and meant to be shared.
L’dor v’dor.
 Israeli Soul Odyssey
Tel Aviv
CARMEL MARKET
The Druze Corner, 1b HaCarmel
HaMalabiya, corner, 60 Allenby and 28 Gadera
HaShomer, 1 HaShomer
Mercaz HaBoreeka, 42 HaCarmel
M25 Meatmarket, 30 Simtat HaCarmel

LEVINSKY MARKET
en.shuktlv.co.il
Café Levinsky 41, 41 Levinsky
Borekas Penso, 43 Levinsky
Haim Rafael, 36 Levinsky
Mati Bar, 84 Levinsky

Etzel Tzion, 61 HaYarkon, corner Trumpeldor

Guetta, 6 Yerushalaim Avenue, gueta-rest.co.il
HaKosem, 1 Shlomo HaMelekh Street, falafelhakosem.com
Itzik and Ruti, 53 Shenkin Street
Mifgash HaOsher, 105 King George Street
Sabich Tchernichovsky, 2 Tchernichovsky Street

GIVATAYIM
Oved Sabich, 3–7 Sirkin Street

Jaffa
Abu Hassan, 1 Dolphin Street
Haj Kahil, 18 David Raziel Street, hajkahil.rest-e.co.il
Itzik HaGadol, 3 David Raziel Street

Lod
Abu Michel, 29 Sderot Tsahai
Jerusalem
MACHANE YEHUDA MARKET
Agrippas Street, en.machne.co.il
Aricha Sabich, 83 Agrippas Street
Azura, 4 HaEshkol Street
Borekas Ramle, 44 Agrippas Street
Hatzot, 121 Agrippas Street, hatzot.co.il
Khachapuria, 5 HaShikma Street
Morris Restaurant, corner, HaCharuv and HaTut Streets

Bandora Shawarma, 36 Yafo Street

Helman Bakery, 18 Natan Strauss Street
Falafel Uzi, Yeshayahu
Hummus Ben Sira, 4 Ben Sira Street

OLD CITY
Jewish Quarter
Muslim Quarter
Zalatimo’s, Christian Quarter

Akko
Endomela, HaHagana Street
Hummus El Abed Abu Hamid, Old Akko Lighthouse
Kashash, Binyamin MiTudela, Turkish Market
Shamsa, covered market,

Ein al-Assad
Al Ein

Hadera
Opera, 61 HaNassi Street

Haifa
Maayan haBira, 4 Natanzon Street
Yonak, 23 Kibuts Galuyot

Hod HaSharon
Kaduri Falafel, 59 Ramatayim Road
Sabich HaSharon, 68 Nahalat Binyamin

Kfar Saba
Gohar, 26 HaTa’as Street
Penguin, 43 Rothchild
Tiferet, 147 Rehov Weizmann

Karkur
D’Vora Falafel, 30 Hameyasdim

Maalot Tarshiha
Buza Ice Cream, 1 HaShuk Street

Ramla
Halil, 6 Kehilat Detroit Street

Umm al-Fahm
Restaurant El Babour, Highway 65

Tzfat
Fricassee Zahava, 26 Yerushalayim Street

Philadelphia
Abe Fisher, 1623 Sansom Street
Dizengoff, 1625 Sansom Street
Federal Donuts, 1632 Sansom
Goldie, 1526 Sansom Street
K’far Bakery, 1218 Sansom Street
Rooster Soup, 1526 Sansom Street
Zahav, 237 St. James Place
While most of us don't have daily access to this bounty at Tel Aviv's Carmel Market, it's
become easier to find excellent ingredients at home.
 Resources
We recognize that there are spices and sauces and other
preparations in this book that might seem unfamiliar to you. Yet
we hope you’ll never be put off from trying a recipe for want of an
ingredient.
Whenever you encounter something that’s not in your pantry,
know that, first of all, we encourage substitutions. For example,
we specify Aleppo pepper in many recipes. Don’t have that? No
worries. Substitute a combination of sweet paprika, red pepper
flakes, and a pinch of cayenne. We heartily recommend making a
jar of hawaij, a blend of the Yemenite Holy Trinity—ground
turmeric, black pepper, and ground cumin—and using it to flavor
everything from chicken soup to scrambled eggs. For the pickled
shipka peppers, feel free to use pickled jalapeños. There's an
entire chapter on Druze mountain bread, but in a pinch,
substitute handmade flour tortillas.
We’re all in favor of bottled sauces, especially when just a
spoonful or two is called for in a recipe. Take the pickled mango
sauce amba. Excellent versions are available in jars (we even sell
them at our falafel shop, Goldie). But we also give you a recipe for
making Classic Mango Amba from scratch, which is itself a
delightful experience. Similarly, Israeli cuisine loves its hot sauces
—harifs. Bottles of the good stuff abound. Same for harissa, the
North African red pepper sauce. Great ones come in jars. Yet with
the recipes, you can discover how to make your own spice blends
and sauces, or even ferment your own hot sauce.
And while we encourage you to discover and get to know the
spice shops and Middle Eastern markets available to you, we do
want to share our favorite sources.
Our friend chef Lior Lev Sercarz is a master spice blender. His
website, laboiteny.com, will lead you to a magical assortment of
the freshly ground and pungent spices we use frequently. It’s a
trip to visit his New York City store at 724 Eleventh Avenue.
Kalustyans.com is another favorite source for spices and
jarred condiments, plus a mind-boggling selection of other
ingredients like grains, teas, and nuts. This website never
disappoints. We also highly recommend wandering the fragrant
aisles at their shop at 123 Lexington Avenue in New York City.
We are big fans of Soom tahini, made in Israel from Ethiopian
sesame seeds and imported by three American sisters, as a base
for our Quick Tehina Sauce. To order, check out their website,
soomfoods.com. Note: When we refer to sesame paste, we use
the Hebrew word tehina, which is the same as tahini.
Increasingly, grocery chains like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s
are stocking excellent tahini, organic canned chickpeas, fresh
turmeric root, and spices worth trying.
We became so fond of the way our food at Rooster Soup looks
on the enamelware bowls, plates, and platters from Crow Canyon
Home, crowcanyonhome.com, that we used their pieces to
photograph the recipes in this book.
You can order almost anything, of course, on amazon.com.

A note on Hebrew phonetics: As Mike puts it, “In Israel, every

English spelling is different!” After consulting many sources, we
have chosen our versions for consistency. When searching
Google, you’ll find, as we did, that each search yields a different
result. Take one of our favorite restaurants in Tel Aviv, Arik
Rosenthal’s HaKosem, which means “The Magician.” We have
seen it spelled as one word, Hakosem, or with a lowercase “h,”
haKosem, or, as we choose to refer to it, HaKosem. Even town
names vary in their spelling. You could be going to ancient Akko,
on the northern Mediterranean coast, or Acre, its Arabic spelling.
Is it Ramla or Ramle? Heading for the mystical town of Tzfat, you
will see signs for Safed, Zefat, Tsfat, Zfat, Safad, and Safet. They
all lead to the same place.
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
terror from a nightmare, the master was about to order him off to bed
again, when a low wail, like that of a child in trouble, fell upon his ear.

“Jimmy” was right. She was calling him, and she was one of the
mules, at that moment in an agonized struggle with a panther, whose
low, almost plaintive yell was one of triumph. Rushing forward,
accompanied by two gentlemen of his party, Cozens came up just as
the mule’s sufferings were over, and shared with them the triumph of
shooting the panther, who turned out to be one of the finest
creatures of the kind ever brought down in the neighborhood.

On the following day a slight détour was made to visit the ruins of
El Moro, one of the most stately of the old Spanish cities, bearing
traces on its walls of the engraved names of many of the old heroes
of the days when the power of the Roman Catholic Church was at its
zenith. From El Moro a ride of a few hours brought the cavalcade to
the Valley of Zuni, inhabited by a few survivors of a race of blue-eyed
and fair-skinned Indians, who are said to have been descended from
the Welsh miners who accompanied Prince Madoc on that visit to
Cibola, concerning which so hot a war has been waged among
archæologists.

Entering the town of Zuni, a ruin differing but little in general

character from that of El Moro, the travelers were courteously
received by the cacique, or chief—a fine-looking old man, with large,
intelligent, dark-blue eyes—wearing a Spanish shawl and trowsers.
He conducted them over his city, pointing out to them, among its
special features, a sacred spring, from which neither man nor beast
was ever allowed to drink, the genius of the place avenging any such
desecration by instant death.

After a careful examination of the wonders of Zuni, the ascent of

the mountain plateau on the west was commenced, and, after many
a pause to examine the strange monuments of a departed race with
which its sides and summit were strewn, the land of the blue-eyed
Indians was left behind, and that of the fierce Navajoes entered.
 Again, as in the Apache country, Cozens had encamped for the
night with a sense of false security, when he awoke suddenly, a
presentiment of danger, which he could not explain, causing him to
start up and look around him. As he listened intently, the sharp crack
of a rifle-shot struck upon his ear, succeeded by another and yet
another. Springing to his feet, he saw a gentleman of the party
advancing with stealthy steps, who laid his finger on his lips and
whispered, “Hist! Navajoes.”

Another moment and the Navajo war-whoop rang out, and about
a dozen dusky forms, mounted on splendid horses, were seen
advancing toward the camp. “We’d better go behind the wagon,”
suggested one of the white men. From behind the friendly shelter of
the wagon, therefore, the heroes watched the approach of their
enemies, who, however, to their great surprise, suddenly
disappeared.

“It’s the pits! the pits!” cried one of the party, rejoicing at the
thought that the Indians had fallen into a hollow unperceived by them
until it was too late to check their horses; but again the wild war-
whoop rang out, and as the white men fired, a shower of arrows cleft
the air. Cozens received one of these missiles in his arm, but,
drawing it out, he continued to fire at intervals, and by their judicious
mode of aiming, the handful of white men managed to keep off
nearly three times their number of savages, who finally rode off,
leaving many of their warriors and horses dead upon the field of
action.

A little later, Jimmy, who had been missing from the affray, came
riding wildly into the camp with the news that he had, single-handed,
worsted a large body of Navajoes, and that there had also been a
struggle between some of these fierce savages and some Zunis,
four of whom had been killed. The latter part of the story received
confirmation, as the bodies of the Zunis were found on the ground,
but of Jimmy’s part in the tragedy no proof was ever obtained. It also
transpired that seven hundred head of cattle had been stolen from
the Zunis by the Navajoes, the attack on the white men’s camp
having merely formed part of a well-organized plundering expedition.
The white men, who had experienced much hospitality from the
Zunis, now resolved to return their courtesy by aiding in the recovery
of their property. A consultation with the sufferers was held, and
before many hours were over, a large body of horsemen were
galloping across the lovely plains of the Navajo land to the pueblo
where the cattle had been penned.

So prompt indeed were the measures taken, and so little did the
Navajoes expect pursuit, that the whole of the cattle were
recaptured, and on their way back to their old pasture-lands before
the alarm was given. The same night found the white men and their
escort once more in safety at Zuni; and, taking the disturbed state of
the country into account, Cozens resolved to attempt no further
explorations among the Navajoes for the present.

In ascending the heights above the sacred spring of Zuni,

however, an accident occurred which delayed for a considerable
time the return of Cozens to Mexico. In following his guide along a
narrow ledge of rock, our hero’s foot slipped on a loose stone, and,
before he could recover himself, he was flung over the bluff, and fell
a distance of no less than three hundred feet into the abyss,
clutching wildly at the rocks in a vain hope of saving himself.
Presently, he tells us in his own account of the matter, the heel of his
right boot hit the corner of a stone, he was thrown forward on his
face, and as he flung up his arms to protect himself, one of his hands
struck against something sharp. He grasped that something, and,
clinging to it convulsively, lost consciousness.

When he came to himself, he was lying on blankets, surrounded

by his companions, who had had themselves lowered down the
abyss over which he had fallen, and, finding him still breathing, had
given signals to the Zunis watching above to hoist the sufferer up.
This was done with the aid of cords as tenderly as possible, and
Cozens was then carried to camp on the shoulders of the faithful
Indians.
 SACRED SPRING AT ZUNI.

A long and tedious illness, through which he was faithfully nursed

by his own people and the Zunis, followed, and in the long weary
hours of weakness the white man learned more perhaps of the ways
of the people than he could have done in weeks of hurried traveling.
While he was still at Zuni, there took place one ♦ of the worst
tragedies enacted by the Apaches in these the early days of the
annexation of their territory to the United States.

♦ omitted word ‘of’ added

A little party of emigrants, numbering some ten persons, under

the guidance of the head of the family, a Mr. Stewart, were crossing
Arizona on their way to California, when they were one night
surprised by a party of Apache warriors. Without warning or parley,
the savages closed round the women and children, discharging
showers of arrows upon them with deadly effect. All fell victims to the
unexpected assault except Mr. Stewart himself, who, seeing that he
could do nothing, fled to warn two of his daughters, who, for some
reason or another, had been separated from the main party, and
were awaiting them a little distance off.
 The daughters, alas, were not at the rendezvous, and after a long
heart-rending search, during which he had again and again to dodge
the Apaches hunting for him, poor Stewart returned to the scene of
the massacre of his other dear ones. Arrived there, a horrible sight
greeted him. A huge fire had been lighted, and on it, half consumed,
were the naked bodies of his wife and six children. All night long he
lay upon the ground in an agony of despair, and the next day
commenced an aimless wandering to and fro, careless of what
should happen to himself. He came presently, however, upon a little
Moquis village, where he was kindly received, and whence two
natives conducted him to Zuni. He lived but long enough to tell his
terrible story. His heart was broken, and after a few days of suffering
he passed peacefully away.

As soon as he was able to travel, Cozens left Zuni for the last
time, returning, as he had come, to the Rio Grande, and thence to
his old home in Mexico. Since his return, many a thrilling tale has
been told of the wild doings of the Apaches and Navajoes; but
gradually they, like their more northerly brethren, are succumbing to
the civilizing influence of the white man, and their final subjugation is
but a question of time.

The completion of the Southern Pacific railroad, and the opening

of the many supplementary transit lines of the Union, have at last
united in indissoluble bonds the States of the East and of the West.
Fresh capital and fresh enterprise are ever flowing, like mighty
arteries, throughout the once deserted wastes between the
Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains; and the shrill whistle of the
steam-engine replaces alike the war-whoop of the savage and the
wail of his victim.
NEW WEST BRITISH COLUMBIA.
 CHAPTER XVII.
CONCLUSION.

B
EFORE closing our record of the advance of the white man
westwards, we must glance once more at British America,
which we left on the eve of the great political crisis at the end of
the last century—a crisis which, after long years of absorbing
struggles, resulted in the consolidation into a single colony of
Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, British Columbia, and the
vast territories long held by the Hudson’s Bay and other North-west
companies.

The banks of the Red River of the North, the shores of the Lake
of the Woods, and the vast prairie lands beyond them, were by this
time well dotted with French and English colonies. Lord Selkirk, a
chief partner in the Hudson’s Bay Company, had purchased land of
the Indians far beyond the original limits of British territory, and the
French fur-traders continued to push their outposts into the
wilderness on every side; while, as we know, the American colonies
were ever spreading further and further to the north as well as to the
west.

It was in the early part of this century that the Hudson’s Bay
Company, whose previous career we have already sketched, was in
the zenith of its prosperity. Even so long ago as 1684, it had
declared a dividend of 50 per cent.; while a little later, about the time
of the Peace of Utrecht, we are told that, by a call of only 10 per
cent. upon its shareholders, it was able to treble its income. But early
in the present century—in 1827—a recent writer informs us, “the
price of a flint-lock musket, valued in Fort Dunvegan at perhaps
twenty shillings, was worth sables at three pounds a piece, piled up
on either side of the weapon until they were level with its muzzle. A
six-shilling blanket was bartered for beavers which would bring in
London eighteen or twenty pounds; and a black fox was obtained for
a price at which the neediest Dog Rib or Locheaux would now laugh
his loudest.” The Hudson’s Bay Company was indeed autocratic
within the wide territories where it held sway, and it could make not
its own prices merely, but also its own laws. As the century
proceeded, however, a change came: first of all, the price of beaver
decreased, from the growing use of silk in the manufacture of hats.
Then came the rising tide of jealousy against monopolies and a
consequent inclination to examine the Company’s titles. Moreover,
Canada itself was eager for “elbow-room;” and still further, as we
have seen, the United States were spreading northward, and so
impinging upon its territory. Thus the story of the Hudson’s Bay
Company has gradually come to be one of decay, and the great
triumphs won, with the wonderful bargains struck by the directors,
are alike things of the past.

One can not but be struck with the lack of enterprise and
enthusiasm which marked the relations of Great Britain to her
American possessions during this period. The spread of United
States settlements had necessitated the establishment of an
international boundary line, and in 1818, the 49th degree of north
latitude had been fixed by treaty as the limit between the Western
States and British America, the St. Lawrence and its lakes
remaining, as before, the boundary between Canada and the
Eastern States of the Union. But another half-century elapsed before
any attempt was made by the British Government to survey and
mark this new boundary line. The outlying colonies struggled on,
some of them almost entirely cut off from intercourse with the outer
world, and many a noble life was lived and lost in the vain struggle
for existence. Meantime, as we have seen, the United States were
being intersected by railways, and their ocean boundaries were
connected by iron bands. California—youngest state of the Union,
and a few short years before but an unknown desert—had become
the golden link between the East and the West. Yet the owners of a
territory as vast, and perhaps as full of great possibilities as the
mighty republic itself, still remained in ignorance of the true character
of their possessions. Maps there were, but maps made up of
sketches filled in on hearsay Indian evidence, and calculated only to
mislead the unhappy explorer who should attempt to guide his
course by their vague delineations. A change soon came, however,
and one as rapid as the course of events which led up to it had been
slow. This change may be said to have been inaugurated in 1857,
when Captain Palliser started on an expedition, which occupied
three years, and resulted in the thorough and just assessment of the
economic value of the districts, extending from the United States
boundary in N. lat. 49° to the chief rivers flowing into the Arctic
Ocean.

SASKATCHEWAN STEAMER.

The admission of British Columbia to the newly-formed Dominion

of Canada in 1871, the last act of the great political drama alluded to
above, was clogged with the condition that a railway should be
constructed within ten years “from the Pacific to a point of junction
with the existing railway systems in the provinces of Ontario and
Quebec.” The English, if chary of undertaking new responsibilities,
are prompt in acting on them, and the authorities of Canada, now
fully alive to the fact that they had to do in a few years what had
been done by their neighbors in a half-century, lost not a moment in
sending out engineers to survey the ground, and ascertain as rapidly
as possible the best route for the promised line of communication. In
1872 the preliminary reports were laid before the Canadian House of
Commons, and the same year Sandford Fleming, the engineer-in-
chief of the line to be laid down, made an extensive exploration of
the districts to be traversed, which added greatly to the general
knowledge of the course of the Saskatchewan, Athabasca, and other
rivers west of the Great Lakes. This report has been followed by
others not less important, and indeed the lengthened survey over
which Mr. Fleming presides has become almost as valuable to the
geographer as to the statesman and the colonist in its results.

In the month of February, 1875, the source of the Fraser River

was found by Mr. E. W. Jarvis, “in a semi-circular basin, completely
closed in by glaciers and high, bare peaks, at an elevation of 5,300
feet;” and we can scarcely refuse this fearless traveler a place
among our heroes, when we read of nine hundred miles traveled on
snow-shoes, the thermometer often being “below the temperature of
freezing mercury,” or learn that he “lived the last three days on the
anticipation of a meal at his journey’s end.” This same year, 1875,
was still further signalized as being that in which the Saskatchewan
was first navigated by steam, for in that year a ship of about 200 tons
ascended from the Great Rapid to Edmonton, 700 miles higher, and
now we learn that this great river is navigated from the neighborhood
of Lake Winnipeg to the base of the Rocky Mountains.
 FRASER RIVER.

In 1879, very great advances were made by Fleming and his staff
in the exploration of the outlying portions of the Dominion; and the
Report presented in 1880, together with the Appendices contributed
by the various members of the Survey, marks a new departure in
North American geography. The extent of territory embraced in the
particular expedition referred to extended from the longitude of
Edmonton, east of the Rocky Mountains, to Port Simpson on the
Pacific. The main object of this survey was to verify the reports of the
navigability of Wark Inlet by ocean-sailing ships, and to ascertain
how far the tract of country between it and the Skeena River, with the
valley of the Skeena itself, were suitable for railway purposes. Its
result was the indication of a choice of practicable routes in the
districts examined; but the Government, for reasons which, though
not obvious, were no doubt well-grounded, decided in favor of the
earlier route proposed, namely, that by the Yellow Head Pass and
the Burrard Inlet. Thus the great expedition of 1879 was set aside,
so far as its main purpose was concerned; but it accomplished
much, and has perhaps really served a more practical end, in
opening up immense regions barely known before, and providing the
student of geography with maps urgently required. Sir J. H. Lefroy
admirably expresses our indebtedness to the members who
composed the expedition, in an address delivered before the
geographical section of the British Association in 1880. He says:
—“The final decision of the Canadian Government to adopt Burrard’s
Inlet for the Pacific terminus of their railway, relegates to the domain
of pure geography a great deal of knowledge acquired in exploring
other lines; explorations in which Messrs. Jarvis, Horetzky, Keeper,
and others have displayed remarkable daring and endurance. They
have forced their way from the interior to the sea-coast, or from the
coast to the Peace River, Pine or Yellow Head Passes, through
country previously unknown, to Port Simpson, to Burke Channel, to
the mouth of the Skeena, and to the Bute Inlet, so that a region but
recently almost a blank on our maps, which John Arrowsmith, our
last great authority, but very imperfectly sketched, is now known in
great detail.” Thus it has happened once more, as we have so often
noted in the course of our narrative, that the traveler, foiled in his
main purpose, has opened for himself and for the world new scenes
by the way; and as we scan the pages of these Canadian reports,
pictures rise before us of surpassing loveliness, while we dream of
these vast territories as they will be when the glory of the gorge and
the mountain pass is varied by the vision of plains covered with corn
and dotted with smiling villages.

During the last ten years, another cause has also largely
contributed to the opening up of the great West. A dispute between
the United States and Canada, as to the exact interpretation of the
Treaty of 1818, led to the sending out of a joint commission to settle
the matter, and mark out the boundary line between the north-west
corner of the Lake of the Woods to the summit of the Rocky
Mountains. The Commissioners, most of them able men of science,
embodied in their report much interesting geographical information of
a supplementary character, the most noteworthy points established
being the vast extent of the Great Plains, with their strange,
bewildering succession of mirages, rendering surveying operations
extremely difficult; and the existence of a chain of salt lakes, with no
outlet to the ocean, extending for fifteen miles in an east and west
direction, near the very heart of the central watershed of the
continent. Nine hundred miles were traversed in this successful trip,
and the whole of the boundary line, now finally determined, was
marked by stone cairns or earthen mounds, at intervals of three
miles on the great plains, and by iron pillars one mile distant from
each other for 135 miles through the southern prairie of Manitoba.
These solitary landmarks, whether on the rich, fertile lands between
the Lake of the Woods and the Pembina Mountains, the prairie
steppe extending from the Pembina Mountains to the great Coteau
of the Missouri, or the wild semi-desert stretching away from it to the
Rocky Mountains, will soon, if we may so express it, be set in
frameworks of colonization, for great and mighty are the changes
which have taken place within the last few years. Emigration has
more than kept pace with the advance of the Canadian Pacific
Railway; the Red River settlers, no longer isolated from their kind,
are at last enjoying the prosperity so long withheld; the number of
settlers has increased rapidly since the opening of two outlets to the
ocean for their produce; new settlements in the West are springing
up as if by magic; a line of telegraph is completed between the ports
on the banks of the Saskatchewan and the chief towns of Canada;
while the long inaccessible solitudes of the northern range of the
Rocky Mountains echo to the many sounds of the ever-increasing
traffic along the line which has at last brought about the long-desired
connection between the northern shores of the Atlantic and Pacific.
WINTER STATION FOR THE VESSELS OF THE ENGLISH PACIFIC SQUADRON.
(Esquimault.)
 INDEX.
Acadia, 83, 118.
Alabama, 42, 173.
Alarchon, Fernando di, 144.
Alaska, 202.
Albany, 110, 124.
Alexander, Sir William, 88.
Algonquin Indians, 110, 112, 115‒117, 130.
Alleghany Mountains, 168.
Allouez, Father, 128.
America known to the Ancients, 9.
Anastasia Island, 61.
Annapolis, 83.
Apache Indians, 149, 150, 184, 258, 260–264, 267–268.
Apalacha River, 37.
Arapaho Indians, 242.
Arctic Ocean, 216.
Argall, Captain, 79, 85.
Arizona, 142, 149, 150, 174, 258.
Arkansas River, 182, 235, 254.
Arkansea, village of, 132, 136.
Astor, John Jacob, 220.
Astoria, 220, 232.
Athabasca, Lake, 214.
Atlantis, Island of, 7.
Ayllon, Lucas Vasquez de, 35, 37.

Bahama Islands, 34.

Balboa, Vasco Nuñez de, 31‒33.
Baltimore, Lord, 80.
♦Bayagoula, Indian village, 164.
♦ ‘Bayagaula’ replaced with ‘Bayagoula’

Barre, Nicholas, 58.

Bear River, 247, 248.
Bears, White and Brown, 188, 191.
Beaujeu, Admiral, 135.
Beer Springs, 247.
Behring, 200.
Biloxi Bay, 164.
Black Hills, 229, 242.
Blackbird, Indian chief, 226.
Blackfeet Indians, 228.
Block Island, 153, 154.
Bona Vista Bay, 52.
Boone, Daniel, 168‒172.
Boonesborough, 171.
Boston, 99, 100, 162.
Boundary between United States and British America, 270,
274.
Brébœuf, Jesuit missionary, 119, 126.
British America, 174, 269, 271;
 French traders in, 212, 270.

Cabot, John, 26, 27.

Cabot, Sebastian, 27.
Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 145.
California, 146, 150‒152, 174, 256.
California, Gulf of, 144.
Canada, First explorations, 51–57;
Explorations and settlements, 112, 120;
Captured by the English, 118;
Ceded to the French, 118.
Canadian Pacific Railway, 271–275.
Cancello, Louis, 47.
Cannibalism, 55, 123, 124.
Cape Breton, 28, 37, 118.
Cape Cod, 9, 89, 92, 112.
Cape Fear, 157.
Cape May, 109.
Cape Mendocino, 146.
Capuchin Friars, 167.
Carey, Apostle of the Indians, 237.
Carolina, 58, 157, 165.
Cartier, Jacques, 51‒57.
Carver, John, 90, 93.
Cass, Governor, 233, 234.
Cass Lake, 234, 239.
Catskill Mountains, 106.
Cevola, Indian village, 143, 259.
Champlain, Samuel, 83, 88, 112.
Champlain, Lake, 113–119.
Charlestown (Mass.), 99.
Charles River, 99.
Charlevoix, Father, 138, 139.
Chesapeake Bay, 68, 76.
Cherokee Indians, 159, 168–172.
Cheyenne Indians, 228, 242.
Chicago, 129, 133.
Chickasaw Indians, 43, 168.
Chippeway Indians, 122, 129, 179‒181, 238.
Cibola, 143, 259.
Clarke, Captain, 184–198.
Cochise, Indian chief, 261–263.
Coligny, Admiral, 57.
Colony, the Lost, 69, 70.
Colorado River, 144, 245, 246.
Columbia River, 146, 188, 194–198, 246;
Great Narrows, 198;
Indians of the Columbia Family, 196–198.
Columbus, 7;
Early life, 13, 14;
At the convent, 15;
At the Spanish court, 16–19;
Sets sail, 19;
Land discovered, 21;
Landing of, 22;
Desertion of Pinzon, 22;
Return to Spain, 23;
Second voyage, 23;
Accusation and death, 25.
Comanche Indians, 136, 184.
Conant, Roger, 99.
Connecticut, 9, 87, 103, 104, 153–157.
Convict colonists, 82.
Cook, Captain James, 201.
Coppermine River, 214, 216.
Coronado, Vasquez de, 144, 145.
Cortereal, Gaspar, 28.
Cortereal, Miguel, 28.
Cortes, 140.
Coureurs des bois, 137, 206, 212.
Coxe, Dr., 165.
Cozens, Mr., 258–268.
Creek Indians, 158.
Crow Indians, 228, 229.
Cuba, 22.
Cumberland River, 170.

Dacotah Indians, 128, 177, 185.

Darien, Isthmus of, 32, 33.
Davenport, John, 156.
Davis, Jim, 274.
Delaware River, 109, 159.
De La Warre, Lord, 77, 78, 79.
Dermer, Captain, 87.
Des Moines River, 132.
Denys, John, 29.
D’Iberville, Lemoyne, 164–166.
Dorantes, Stefano, 142.
Dover founded, 88.
Drake, Sir Francis, 63, 68, 146.
Dreuillette, Jesuit missionary, 126–128.
Dutch settlements, 108–110.

Early Explorers, 7.
Eaton, Theophilus, 156.
Eliot, John, 158.
El Moro, ruins of, 265.
Emigration to California, 257.
♦Enciso, 31.

♦ ‘Encisco’ replaced with ‘Enciso’

Endicott, John, 99, 154.

English Settlements, first, 64.
Eric the Red, 8.
Erie, Lake, 115, 133.
Esquimaux, 214.

Faroe Islands, 12.

First American Explorers, 7–12.
First steamer on inland waters, 234.
Flathead Indians, 198.
Fleming, Sandford, 272.
Florida, Discovery of, 33–35, 47;
Early settlements in, 59, 63;
Annexed to the United States, 173.
Fonte, Admiral de, 147.
Fortune, the, 96.
Fountain of Youth, search for, 33, 34, 35.
Fox, Luke, 206, 207.
Franklin, Captain, 216.
Fraser River, 272.
Fremont, John C., 241–254.
Fremont’s Peak, 246.
French Settlements, 59, 116, 117, 164, 165, 209.
Freydis, Eric’s daughter, 10, 11.
Frontenac, 133, 134.
Fuca, Juan de, 147.
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