Rapier
Rapier
Rapier
Introduction
Rapier weaving today exists in diversified forms. During the last two decades the developments in rapier weaving have been carried out in a rapid continuous way. Rapier weaving machine produces top- quality fabrics from spun yarns such as cotton-wool, camel hair, silk, synthetic fibers and fancy yarns. Todays rapier weaving machine has become fast and exceptionally flexible. It offers a choice of various reed widths, shedding motions, selvedges and filling insertion colors. This makes it suitable for weaving an extended range of articles: fashion fabrics, shirting, denim, suiting, industrial or furnishing fabrics, in one to eight or twelve filling colors or yarns, with a maximum weight of 500 g/m2. Todays rapier weaving machine is designed with modern electronics, with total automation of weaving and central microprocessor control system, also ensuring maximum reliability, amazing user-friendliness, ease-of operation, shorter style changing time, excellent fabric quality, low energy consumption, and optimized insertion cycle for unequalled industrial speed[1-4].
2. History of Rapier
In the past 150 years weaving machinery has gone through the most radical changes. Although the invention of the fly shuttle by John Kay-which doubled the production of hand loom - came in 1733, the development of shuttleless loom, starting with the rapier loom, goes back to 1844, when John Smith of Salford was granted a patent to eliminate the shuttle. Subsequent patents were taken out by Phillippe and Maurice in 1855, W.S. Laycock in 1869, W.Glover in 1874[7]. Rigid rapiers were invented in 1870 and perfected by O. Hallensleben in 1899. The main breakthrough came in 1922 when John Gabler invented principle of loop transfer in the middle of the shed [8-10]. Flexible rapiers of the type used today were proposed in 1925 by R.G.Moya of Barcelona, based on a Spanish patent applied for in 1924. In 1939, another inventor, R.Dewas, introduced the novel idea of grasping the weft at its tip by the giver or a carrier rapier, and then transferring it to the taker or a receiver, in the middle of the shed. In the period up to the beginning of the World War 2 many patents were applied for, but it was only in the 50s and 60s that rapier weaving finally become commercialized and since then has made highly significant progress in achieving the present weft insertion rate of 1,500 m/min plus[11].
flexible rapier system of weft insertion has the reputation of being most adaptable and most applicable. The outstanding feature of flexible rapier machine is its significant increase in weft insertion rate, greater reed width (460cm), versatility and adaptability. In the last 15 years or so the design of the rapier machine has been revolutionized by new innovations, engineering walkthroughs, automation in processes, introduction of computer technology, electronics and CAD-CAM systems. The weaving industry on the whole has entered a new era of electronics, microprocessors, information technology and their application to the production of woven fabrics. Incorporation of electronic devices and system to weaving machines has become almost inseparable part of the machine. Developments, particularly of microprocessors, have revolutionized the design of the rapier weaving machines, including the weft propulsion technology. The weft insertion elements have been made smaller and lighter in weight[2,4,26-28].
During centre transfer from the left-hand to the right-hand rapier, the filling is positively controlled and thus securely transferred. The filling is released after the rapier has exited the shed in the open shed position and under absolutely control conditions. In Dornier rapier weaving machine, the highest peak yarn tension is extremely low due to the low rapier speed and positive control. Soft thread clamps with hard metal inserts and precision controlled transfer enable even coarse filament yarns of 2200 dtex with 450 filaments to be securely clamped and inserted[6,7].
A perfectly efficient weft cutter mechanism is required for use of a wide range of yarn in rapier weaving machine. Leonardo has the weft cutter having direct gear drive, ensuring constancy and precision and reducing yarn wastage. The rapier head inserts any kind of weft. With the "RotoCut" in G6500, electronically controlled weft cutter, the timing of weft cutting is optimized. The "RotoCut" always cuts the weft at the best possible moment, irrespective of yarn type and material[6,8].
At the filling breaks the machine stops and only the harnesses are moved automatically to free the broken pick for removal by the weaver. The requirements that pick finding position is reached with a minimum of reed movements through the beat-up line. In GamMax, the pick finding is simply done by the Sumo motor at slow speed[1,5,7].
5.1. Versatility
Today rapier weaving machine can be equipped with a tappet motion with upto 10 healds; positive cams, maximum 8 harness frames, 12 mm pitch; electronic rotary dobby for 12,20 or 24 frames, 12 mm pitch; or an electronically controlled jacquard machine having upto 20,000 hooks[2,3].
close loop tension control. Accurate synchronization with main motor in forward & reverse direction in addition with remarkable latest features supports to minimize the beginning & ending marks thus, enhancing the grade & quality of the fabric. Besides this, it enables cramming/density design possible[10]. The let-off & take up is synchronized rigidly with main motor in forward as well as reverse direction. With the take up electronic system the weft density variation doesnt need any more mechanical interruptions on the loom, it just need setting parameters on the fly of the key.
The great advantages are: Cramming pick finding- forward & reverse. Controlled synchronized movement during start, stop & running It boost quality & efficiency of the product A great value addition to the weaving machine. The accurateness in settings & functioning introduces an easy way to adjust weft density for highest fabric weight & least yarn consumption. The most remarkable thing is that it creates lots of alternatives for the weaver to manage the fabric marks & quality. In addition pc connectivity & internet options offer loom data monitoring either locally as well as from a remote place too. The let-off motion is electronically controlled with load cell for different setting. Warp tension can be set by digital system[11-13]. Warp beams with 800, 1000 and 1200 mm with following configuration can be available: Twin beam with differential drive. Twin beam with bilateral let- off. Double simple beam or double twin beam. Somet Thema Super Exel offers electronic warp let-off and fabric wind-up by means of an electronic gear system[7, 14]. The precision of the electronic gear system synchronizes with the fabric take-up. A double warp let-off for heavy fabrics ensures microprocessor controlled constant warp tension. This guarantees easy let-off of both half-beams. The reading system of the warp tension is independent for the two beams. In Leonardo, the warp let-off is optimized by a unique and extremely versatile backrest support ensuring significant advantages even in the case of heavy weight fabric. Leonardo is also equipped with a twin beam version, with independent drive system for the two beams, ensuring constant warp tension[6,7,9]. Let-off and take-up motions are identical in construction, simplifying handling as well as spare part inventory. Each motion utilizes a resolver as the measuring system, connected together with the sensor to a control circuit. Even when weaving with twin beams the precision of the entire system is maintained. The accuracy of setting the warp tension on the display is in the region of 1 gram and in the case of the take-up, up to 0.01 pick/cm[7,15].
The take-up motion is also electronically controlled and synchronized with let-off motion. Inside the machine the cloth is wound on to a 600 mm diameter cloth beam. External cloth beam on to batching motion upto 1800 mm cloth roll diameter is also available. The required pick density can be programmed on the microprocessor keyboard or the jacquard control unit. The accuracy of the setting ensures easy to adjust of the pick density of the fabric for optimum fabric weight and minimum yarn consumption. The electronic take-up also makes it possible to weave fabric with variable pick densities[2,6].
9. Selvedge
There is more than one technology available for producing selvedge in modern high speed rapier looms. These are Moto leno, ELSY, disco leno, power leno has been used by different machinery manufacturer. Dornier offers revolutionary selvedge formation device with decisive advantages. The, 2end full-turn leno type Moto Leno, controlled in direct relation with weave requirements, variations in pick density and fabric construction, is
freely programmable. Warp end breaks in the selvedge area are significantly reduced. The inexpensive alternative to tucked selvedge is the 2-end full turn leno type Moto Leno with synchronous motor drive.
Based on Moto Leno, the modular designed Moto Eco double-disc leno is also available. While one leno forms the fabric selvedge, the second leno replaces the catch selvedge. All the functions are easily set directly on the machine display. In the DiscoLeno, the company presents a 2-thread full-cross leno device with synchronous motor drive, a feature unique in the construction of weaving machines. It operates with normal king and flanged bobbins and copes under weave control with any pick density variation and fabric construction. The advantages both in terms of machine and weaving technology of Moto Leno and Disco Leno are following Wear-free operation at maximum speeds of up to 1200 rpm. The use of any types of bobbins. Full reversibility of the leno device. Simple leno threads monitoring by means of conventional warp stop motion droppers. Use of full leno device for all types of fabric. Shed closing can be chosen freely in the display separately for each leno device. Elimination of 2 base heald frames including drive. Reduction in leno yarn breaks to an absolute minimum due to short front shed and low stress on leno thread. QSC-compatible. The leno devices remain as an autonomous device when a style change is introduced on the weaving machine. No bulking of the fabric selvedges caused by the leno device, no differences in tension relative to the fabric selvedge. Good and stable interlacing thanks to full leno technique. Can be used without any limit on the number of heald frames. Can be retrofitted with the CAN-bus control system. PowerLeno is a completely new technology for producing leno fabrics. The core elements of this innovation are the guide bar and the eyeleted reed. They replace the costly, wearprone leno healds used hitherto, creating the conditions for moving into a new dimension of productivity and high efficiency in modern weaving.
The leno thread (blue) runs through the apertures in the guide bar and eyeleted reed; the stationary end (red) has been drawn into the eyelet of the eyeleted reed. The shed is open for weft insertion. Following weft insertion the guide bar moves upward; the eyeleted reed moves in the opposite direction until the leno thread is above the stationary end. Now the guide bar is displaced sideways until the leno thread is on the opposite side of the aperture in the eyeleted reed. . Now, when the guide bar moves downward and the eyeleted reed upward, the leno thread comes to lie over the stationary end. The shed is open for the next weft insertion. The system is ready for the next sequence in the opposite direction. PowerLeno sets the new standard for cost effective production of leno fabrics. PowerLeno means higher productivity coupled with a degree of reliability never previously achieved. PowerLeno gives: Optimum fabric quality and maximum efficiency thanks to reduced yarn loading User-friendliness, with easy, straightforward machine operation A wide range of applications, with working widths up to 540 cm Increased productivity thanks to maximum machine performance Minimal wear thanks to low masses and less movement Higher overall cost-effectiveness in leno fabric production. Picanol has developed the unique ELSY full leno selvedge motion, electronically driven by individual steeper motors. The selvedge crossing can be programmed or the microprocessor independently of the shed crossing even while the machine is in operation. The earliest position for rethreading can be set by a simple push of a button, when the machine starts the selvedge system automatically returns to its original position. In Suizer G6500, the electronically controlled selvedge-forming unit can be adjusted at the terminal while the machine is running. The selvedge forming units are separately driven and ensure clean selvedge formation. The timing of the shed closure for the left and right selvedges is freely programmable via the terminals[5,10,12,32].
frame, reed, and beam unloading/loading operation have been made far easier with the introduction of rational and reliable technical solution. Picanol developed QSC, Quick Style Change System in which the style change is achieved by swapping the whole back part of the split frame, with the warp beam, the back rest and the supporting warp stop motion, the harnesses, and the reed. Additionally this unique system makes it possible to carry out the entire article related setting on the warp side, outside the weaving shed before the style change. This ultimately reduces the labor requirement and thus increases the loom efficiency[1, 6, 7, 9, 12, 33] with the following benefits and advantages;. Reduce machine down time. Interference losses due to simultaneous stops are practically non-existent. Fewer personal required for warp and article changes in weave room. Warp changes can be replaced by style changes, enabling the load on the tying and drawing in equipment to be balanced instead of having two bottlenecks.
Bi-directional communication between the weaving machine and the central production computer. Speed set-up. Electronic weaving speed variation depending on the characteristic of the yarn being used. Control of warp let-off and fabric take-up. Electronic control of the filling tension. Transfer of setting and production parameters of a fabric style, to other machine with the help of memory cards. In Picanol GamMax, most of the machine functions are digitally controlled. All the machine settings can be digitally stored and transferred. The electronic terminal on GamMax monitors and controls all machine functions. Its LCD screen has self explanatory menus and enables the weaver to set the weaving parameters in a very user-friendly way. GamMax is also Internet- enabled. The GamMax terminal features wireless communication through a USB memory stick or key tag, permitting robust, flexible, handy and reliable operation. Suizer G6500 offers "Smart Weave" - intelligent pattern data programming. "Smart Weave" offers fabric designer intelligent support in the preparation of weaves design and picks repeats. The G6500 control interface is a userfriendly, Internet-ready touch screen terminals. The logical structuring with selfexplanatory Pictogram guides the operators to the desired function simply and with a minimum of keying. In Leonardo, the computer system is based on the CAN-BUS system. This drives and controls all the main textile and mechanical function. With the CAN-BUS in mind, a new controller has been developed, called the FULLTRONIC. This co-ordinate all loom functions instant by instant, from the operating conditions of the various mechanisms to each individual response: heald movement, color to be selected, warp tension, density of the weft in the fabric, plus the messages describing the status of the lubrication circuit. Monitoring takes place at a frequency of more than 700 messages/sec. The Dornier rapier-weaving machine, type PS, has control cabinet with integrated CANBUS and various modules for start, stop, warp let-off and fabric take-up as well as start mark prevention. The Dornier Customer Service Department can directly access machine displays - trouble shooting online. The DoNet Global Communication Network offers quick location and transportation of setting instructions, remote diagnostics[1,2,6,7,9,25].
help of this system, it is no longer necessary to keep the machine speed continuously low if there is one weaker filling yarn in multi-channel weaving. The advantages of Sumo motor are Saving on energy consumption of more than 10% in comparison with conventional clutch and brake configuration. Machine speed setting is done accurately and completely, electronically via the keyboard of microprocessor. This reduces the setting time to zero. Speed setting is easy to copy to other machine either with electronic set card or with production computer with bi-directional communication. Automatic pick finding becomes faster, which significantly reduces the down times for repairing filling and warp breakages. The machine can always work at optimum weaving speed in function of quality of the yarn, the number of frames, and fabric construction[5-7,9,11,24].
14. Conclusions
Todays rapier weaving machine has become fast and exceptionally flexible. It offers a choice of various reed widths, shedding motions, selvedges and filling insertion colors etc. The weft color selectors of todays rapier weaving machine are microprocessor controlled, compact sized ones and can be available in up to 16 colors[21]. The maximum weft insertion rate achieved is 1620 m/min. The versatile rapier head van handle a count range lies between 0.77 tex and 3333 tex. Rapier head has become smaller, lighter and able to free-flight. Filling insertion system is microprocessor controlled and synchronized with other mechanisms. Shedding mechanism has become more versatile. Let-off and take-up mechanism is synchronized with other mechanisms so that minimum start-up marks produced in fabric in large diameter of take-up roll[22-23]. Drive mechanism to reed and rapier provides minimum acceleration to the filling so that minimum filling breaks occur. Fully programmable high speed selvedge formation devices such as Moto leno, Disco leno, Power leno and ELSY are developed to cope up with high speed rapier machines.
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