Eye Shadow
Eye Shadow
Eye Shadow
Group Members
CHAIN, KOK KEONG
LE, DIEUHANH THI
MCLAUGHLIN, KELLY E
VAN NATTER, RAINEE M
Date: 18th April 2002
Introduction
Overview of Cosmetic
Consumer aspect
High quality
Safe or non allergic
Reasonable Price
Multiple Performance
Long Wearing
Surfactant
hydrophilic head group + hydrophobic tail
Emollients, wetting agents, and emulsifying agents,humectants
To promote lubricant, adhesiveness, slip and covering purposes
Adhesiveness
Cling Together
Zinc Stearate, Octyl Palmitate
Other Ingredients
Coloring Pigments, Iron Oxide
Shininess Appearance
Not over darkness and chalkiness
Components
(1) Talc, Rhapsody
(Filler/Matrix)
(2) Iron Oxides
Range
% by weight
70.0 - 90.0
Pale skin
90.5 (2M)
Dark skin
74.5 (4M)
0.1 - 10.0
0.5
15.0
2.0 - 6.0
3.0
0.0
2.0 - 8.0
3.0
0.0
2.0 - 6.0
0.0
3.5
2.0 - 9.0
0.0
7.0
100.0
100.0
(Colorants)
(3) Polyethylene,
Micronized
ToTal
Octyl Palmitate
as liquid binder,
provide cohesion
as emulsifier, emollients
Iron Oxide
(Fe2O3) , Color Pigment
Lipsticks
Purpose:
Protect lips from hard weather
Color lips
Objectives:
Variation in color from application to application
Lasts all day
Removable with cleansers
Lipsticks
Formulation composition*
Components
Range % by wt
1.
Candellela Wax
3.0-9.0
2.
Ozokerite
1.0-4.0
1.0
3.
Paraffin wax 2.0-5.0
2.0
4.
Isosteryl Isostearated
2.0-10.0
5.
Ultrapure HMP-S
8.0-10.0
6.
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
7.
Castor Oil
QS
51.6
8.
Propyl Paraben
0.10
9.
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.1-1.0
10.
Colorants: D&C #7 CA lake
11.
Red Oxide
0.0-3.0
1.5
12.
Rhapsody Talc 4M
2.0-10.0
Total
100.0
*Ultra Chemical Inc.
Preferred by wt
3.0
10.0
10.0
2.0-10.0
10.0
0.10
0.10
0.0-4.0
0.30
10.0
Lipsticks
Function of Ingredients
1. Emollients
a. Castor oil:-extracted from castor plant
b. Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride:-oily liquid extract from plant
vegetable oil and dairy fats.
2.
3.
c. Isostearyl Isostearate
Emulsifiers
a. Paraffin Wax:-derived from petroleum
b. Ozokerite Wax:-ceresin wax, naturally occurs in mineral wax.
Preservatives
a. Propyl Parahen:-propyl-4-hydroxylbenzoate and prepare from pbromophenol
4.
5.
Colorants
a. D&C Red #7 CA lake:
b. Red Oxide
c. Ultrapure HMP-S
Binders
a. Candellia wax
Lipsticks
Processing
1. Heat the ingredients to 75-85degree Celsius
2. Mix until the batch is smooth and uniform
Lipstick
Shapes, packaging and price
~40
~40sec
sec
Contain pigments
Adhere to skin
Have adequate slip to spread onto skin
Limited solubility in perspiration (to avoid
streaking), but easily removable with cleansers
Safe for eyes (preservatives)
~25
~25sec
sec
Forms
Solid, creamy
Dry, Compact
Liquid
suspension/
emulsion
(Black
Opal/BioCosmetic
Research Labs)
Solid, stick
(Almay,
Inc.)
(LOreal)
(Wet N Wild)
(Brief
(BriefOverview
Overview
Slide)
Slide)
Rouge/Eyeshadow Ingredients
Filler
Pigments and Opacifiers
Binders
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Preservatives
Absorbents
Perfume Carriers
Viscosity controllers/thickeners
Talc
Talcalready
alreadydiscussed
discussed(kkc)
(kkc)
-dont
-dontdescribe
describein
indetail
detail
Below:
Below: esters
estersand
andoils
oils
Main Ingredients
Liquid/Gel Rouges:
Water (Solvent)
Cream/Solid Cosmetics:
~15
~15sec
sec
55secsec-refer
referthem
them
to
toweb
website
site
Structure
Color(s)
Talc
MgO4SiO2H2O
Zinc Oxide
ZnO
Titanium dioxide
TiO2
White/yellowish white
(Opacifier)
White (Opacifier)
Mica
White, pearlescence
Carbon black
K2Al4(Al2Si6O20)(OH4) or
H2KAl3(SiO4)3
C(s)
Iron Oxides
Fe3O4
Black
Fe2O3
Red, brown
Fe2O3H2O
Yellow-orange
Siennas
Black
Yellow, Brown
Ultramarines
~Na7Al6Si6O24S3
Chromium oxides,
hydroxide
Aluminum powder
Cr2O3, Cr2O33H2O
Al (s)
Fe4[Fe(CN)6]3XH2O,
Prussian blue
Manganese Violet
~Mn3+NH4P2O7
violet
Bismuth Oxychloride
BiOCl
Pearly lustre
Emulsifying Agents/Surfactants
Promote the mixing of otherwise immiscible liquids
Lower surface tension, promoting more even mixing
Emollients
Soften and smooth the skin
***Many cosmetic ingredients serve more than 1 of these purposes, and thus they
have been combined for the purpose of listing ingredients.
Only
Onlydiscuss
discuss
those
thosefound
foundin
in
sample
sample
formulation
formulationthat
that
I Ipick
pick
Preservatives
Purpose
Inhibit the growth of micro-organisms
Examples
Parabens (esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid)
Glyceryl Monolaurate
EDTA
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Absorbents:
Purpose: Absorb water/oil.
Examples: Magnesium carbonate, Kaolin
Perfume Carriers:
Examples: Magnesium carbonate, Chalk
Paraben (p-hydroxybenzoate)
(Almay, Inc.)
Talc (Filler)
Ultramarine
Blue (Pigment) 64.7%
Filler
Octyl Palmitate
(Liquid Binder)22.6%
Pigment
Squalane (Liquid Binder)
Liquid
Binder
10.5%
Iron Oxides
(Pigment)
Solid(Solid
Binder
Zinc Stearate
Binder) 2.0%
Glyceryl Monolaurate
Preservatives
0.6%
(monoglyceride) (Preservative)
EDTA (Preservative)
(Ultra Chem)
64.7%(wt)
20.0%
7.0%
3.5%
2.6%
2.0%
(Almay, Inc.)
0.5%
0.1%
Procedure:
1. Mill, grind, mix dry powder ingredients
2. Spray liquid phase into powder while mixing
3. Distribute
4. Press
5. Dry
(Ultra Chem), (Sagarin 258-261)
Liquid/Gel Rouge
(LOreal)
Procedure:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
(Wet N Wild)
Castor Oil
Candelilla wax
Carnauba wax
Color
Perfume
77.4%
9.9%
2.7%
10.0%
q.s.
(Sagarin 254)
Cream-Solid Eyeshadow
(Black Opal/
BioCosmetic Research Labs)
25.6%
22.6%
5.1%
Procedure:
Mascara
(Almay)
Isoparaffin (Solvent)69.7%
Pigments
12.0%
Beeswax
5.4%
Solvent
69.7%
Ozokerite
5.4%
Waxeswax
14.0%
Polyethylene
4.2%
Pigments
12.0%
Carnauba
wax
2.0%
Polyethylene
4.2%
Microcrystalline wax 1.2%
Procedure:
1. Mix polyethylene with about half the solvent
2. Heat to about 100C with stirring
3. Add remainder of solvent
4. Cool rapidly
5. Add the pigments and melted waxes, and mixed thoroughly.
Range (weight %)
Deionized Water
Hydroxethyl Cellulose
Xanthan Gum
Butylene Glycol
Lecithin
Polysorbate 20
Methyl Paraben
Iron Oxides
Titanium Dioxide
Talc, Rhapsody 4M
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
Isopropyl Myristate
Squalane
Stearic Acid
SE Glycerol Mono Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Fragrance
Additional Preservatives
0.10 - 0.40
0.40 - 0.40
0.00 - 8.00
0.00 - 1.50
0.00 - 1.50
0.10 - 0.30
0.10 - 8.00
0.00 - 13.00
1.00 - 15.00
1.00 - 8.00
1.00 - 8.00
0.00 - 5.00
0.50 - 3.00
1.00 - 4.00
0.20 - 1.00
0.00 - 0.20
0.00 - 0.50
Function of Ingredients
Humectants
Emulsifiers
Create stable mixture of oil and water
Function of Ingredients
Emollients
Smooth skin
Soften skin
Gums
Protective colloid
Suspending agent
Film formation
Function of Ingredients
Vehicle
Deionized water
Filler/Matrix
Talc, Rhapsody 4M
Colorants
Add color
Iron oxides and titanium dioxide
Function of Ingredients
Fragrances
Preservatives
Processing
Add deionized water to kettle and water
phase ingredients
Disperse gums and pigments
Heat to 75 deg C
Combine oil phase ingredients separately
Heat to 70 deg C
Processing
Free Sample
Counseling
Product advice
Consumer research
questionnaires
Efficiency
Cosmetics Labeling
Manufactures of cosmetics must print
certain information on the labels of each
product:
The identity of the product
The net quantity in metric units
The name and address of the manufacturer or
distributor
Any warnings or cautions necessary for the
safe use of the product.
Labeling
Types of labels
White labels
Clear labels
Labels on the bottles
Conclusion
Liquid Cream
Lipstick
Emulsifiers, preservatives
Face Powder
References
Andersen, Kristin. Cosmetic Colorants. Healthwell. Penton Media (04 Apr 2002).
http://www.healthwell.com/hnbreakthroughs/apr98/colorants.cfm.
European Commission Enterprise DG UNIT F/3 - Biotechnology, Competitiveness in
Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics. The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic
Ingredients. (23 Oct 2001). http://eudrams1.is.eudra.org/F3/home.html - Inventory of
Cosmetic Ingredients
Jones, Mr. Photographic Chemical Descriptions. (23 Mar 2001).
http://www.speakeasy.org/~mrjones/chemdesc.htm - photographic chemical site, used
to get pigment color of ferric ferrocyanide
Marmion, Daniel M. Handbook of U.S. Colorants for Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics. 2nd
Ed. John Wiley & Sons (1984).
Paint and Coatings Industry (PCI). (Iron Oxide Information)
http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP_Features_Item/0,1846,13
449,00.html.
Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. I. 8th Ed.
Chapman and Hall (1974).
Poucher, W.A., and G.M. Howard. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. Vol. III. 8th Ed.
Chapman and Hall (1974).
Product Dictionary. Make Me Up (2000).
http://www.emakemeup.com/ingredients.html - List and short description of cosmetic
ingredients
Sagarin, Edward, Ed. Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Interscience Publishers
(1957).
Ultra Chemical Inc. Pressed Eyeshadow, Matte. (2000).
http://www.ultrachem.com/formulations/pressedeyeshadow.html.
Walgreens. http://www.walgreens.com. - Cosmetics photos.