Creams

Cleansing creams
Cleansing creams remove dirt from the

skin by binding to the dirt, suspending
them and subsequently wiped out
gently with a cotton fabric
Ideal properties of cleansing cream
1. Liquefy easily at body temperatures
2. Viscosity should be low enough to permit easy
spreading but high enough to retain in suspension
particles of dirt
3. Penetrate the epidermis ( via natural openings)
4. Emulsion type with a small percentage of water
5. Leave skin smooth, relaxed , non greasy and clean
6. Contain no chemical that is quickly absorbed by skin
Cleansing
creams
Liquefying Emulsified
creams creams
Liquefied creams
Definition: Simple form in which components melted together till
homogeneous and poured to set in containers
1.Product must be solid but must liquefy on application

2.Should not be too liquid to flow off the skin
RAW MATERIALS REQUIRED:

1. Oily phase: mineral oil, vegetable oil, paraffin wax,
stearic acid
2. Purified water: distilled or decomposed
3. Emulsifying agents:
a. Non- ionic emulsifiers-spans and tweens( 2%)
b. Triethanolamine stearate ( 2%)
c. Lanolins ( 2%)
For acidic creams :
1. Glyceryl stearate
2. Cetyl alcohol
3. Sodium cetyl sulphate
Thickeners
a. waxes: beeswax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, cellulose
derivatives like soidium alginate
Detergents
1. Sodium cetyl alcohol
Perfumes
Preservatives
Antioxidants
Formulation consideration
1. Leaking of oil can be assured by
carnauba wax
2. Translucent product can be assured
by paraffin, petroleum and mineral
oil
3. White opaque results from use of
ceresin , beeswax or zinc oxidant
paraffin
4. Mineral oil can be solidified by the
addition of sufficient paraffin which
decreases bleeding.
5. Consistency may be varied hard and
soft by increasing or decreasing the
wax content
Emulsified creams
1. Basically beeswax – borax type of creams
2. Absorption bases recommended that hold almost five
times their weight of water to have a stable, white and
fined textured cream
VANISHING CREAM
• Cream that disappear, when rubbed on skin
• Also know as SNOW
• Oil in water emulsions
• Applied as foundation creams to hold face
powder and improve adhesion
Ideal properties of vanishing creams
1.High melting point
2.Pure whiteness
3.Very little odor and low iodine number
4.Rubbed easily on the skin without roll-
on effect
Raw materials
a. Stearic acid is the major component of vanishing cream-
( good quality triple pressed must be selected)
1. excess stearic acid, water and soap are basic constituents of
stearate based creams
2. Soap formed in-situ by the reaction between a suitable alkali
and stearic acid ( determines hardness of the cream)
b. Humectants
1. Glycerin most favored followed by sorbitol and propylene
glycol
2. Prevents excessive drying out of cream, due to o/w type
product
3. Product of water, stearic acid and soap will roll badly when
rubbed
c. Alkali
1. Potassium hydroxide , sodium hydroxide , potassium
hydroxide, sodium carbonate, triethanolamine and
borax
2.Potassium hydroxide is mostly used since makes
a cream of fine texture without excessive harshness
3. Sodium or potassium hydroxide when used alone
forms hard cream hence always in combination
4. Carbonates not favoured , liberates CO2 and creams
become spongy
5. Borax used in combination with potassium
hydroxide or triethanolamine to form white
emulsion
Stearic acid provides
oil phase and 20-
30% of free acid
neutralized by
alkali VANISHING CREAM
in which oil phase
melts above body
temp and crystallizes
as invisible form to
give a non greasy
and shiny layer on
skin
Emulsifier as
soap from
KOH ( IN SITU )
FORMULATION OF VANISHING CREAM
• Ideal formula:
Ingredients Quantity Category
Oil Phase
Stearic acid 20.0 g
Cetyl alcohol 0.50 g
TriethanolamiNE 1.20 g Alkali
Aqueous Phase
NaOH/KOH 0.36 g Alkali
Glycerine 8.0 g Emollient
Water 69.94 g Vehicle
Perfume q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Antimicrobial
MOISTURIZING CREAMS AND LOTIONS
DRY SKIN RESULTS FROM:
1. PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO LOW HUMIDITY OR
AIR MOVEMENT
2. PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL CHANGES IN SKIN DUE
TO AGING PROCESS
WHEN WATER IS LOST MORE RAPIDLY THAN IT IS

RECEIVED FROM LOWER LAYERS OF SKIN, IT
BECOMES DEHYDRATED MAKING IT ROUGH
THOSE CREAMS WHICH RESTORE WATER(

MOISTURE) TO THE STRATUM CORNEUM ARE
CALLED MOISTURISING CREAMS.
APPROACH TO RESTORE WATER TO DRY SKIN
1. OCCLUSION
2. HUMECTANCY
3. RESTORATION OF DEFICIENT MATERIAL
OCCLUSION RESULTS IN AN IMMEDIATE DECREASE IN THE RATE
OF WATER LOSS THROUGH THE EPIDERMIS
HUMECTANTS ATTRACTS MOISTURE TO THE SKIN
FACILE ADDITION OF WATER TO SKIN DOES NOT SUFFICE TO

PLASTICIZE IT
AGING LEADS TO CHANGES IN LIPID COMPOSITION OF CELLULAR
MEMBRANE . HENCE SUCH PRODUCTS SHOULD BE RICH IN
PHOSPHOLIPIDS , AMINO ACIDS AND ESSENTIAL HORMONAL
FACTORS
RAW MATERIALS
COMPOUNDS PROVIDING OCCLUSION: NON PERMEABLE
SUBSTANCES CAN BE USED MINERAL AND VEGETABLE OILS,
LANOLINS AND SILICONES
FILM FORMING AGENTS: ALBUMIN, GELATIN
HUMECTANTS: GLYCEROL, ETHYLENE GLYCOL, PROPYLENE

GLYCOL AND SORBITOL
EMOLIENTS : IMPARTS SENSE OF WELL BEING TO THE SKIN BY

CAUSING FLATTENING OF SURFACE CONTOURS
Many humectants also have emollient properties, while not all

emollients are humectants. The best moisturizers have a
combination of emollients and humectants.
NATURAL MOISTURIZING FACTOR
( NMF )
THERE IS A NATURAL
MOISTURIZING FACTOR IN THE
SKIN WHICH IS REMOVED BY
MEANS OF WATER AND
DETERGENTS SOLUTIONS AND
APPEARS TO BE AMINO LIPID
NATURE
E.G. UREA, PYRROLIDONE

CARBOXYLIC ACID,
AMMONIUM, URATES.
UREA USED IN SKIN CREAMS
1.UREA IS A COMPONENT OF HYDROLIPID
EMULSION OF SKIN SURFACE
2.SAFELY USED BETWEEN CONCENTRATION
2-8%
1.IN W/O EMULSIONS MOISTURIZING EFFECT
DEVELOPS MORE SLOWLY BUT LASTS
LONGER THAN OIL-IN – WATER EMULSIONS
ADVANTAGES :
1. UREA LACKS ANY SENSITIZING OR PHOTODYNAMIC

ACTIVITIES
2. DOES NOT STAIN , COLORLESS AND ODORLESS
3. MOISTURIZING ACTION (GOOD BINDING CAPACITY)
BINDS WATER BY INCLUDING IN ITS CRYSTAL
STRUCTURE
4. DESQUAMATING ACTION
5. ANTIMICROBIAL ACTION
6. ENHANCE OF THE PENETRATION
7. ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ACTION
DISADVANTAGES:
1. DEGRADATION WITH PROGRESSIVE

ALKANIZATION, DEVELOPMENT OF UNPLEASANT
ODOUR OR RECRYSTALLIZATION MAKE UREA
DIFFICULT TO INCORPORATE INTO STABLE
PREPARATION
2. UREA IS TOLERATED DIFFRENTLY BY SLIGHTLY

INFLAMMED, DAMAGES SKIN
FORMULA PERCENTAGE
UREA 10
STEARIC ACID 5
WHITE SOFT PETROLATUM 4
ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 3
EMULSIFIERS 5
ALCOHOL 7
CARBOPOL 934 0.25
TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.1
PRESERVATIVE Q.S
WATER Q.S to 100
HAND AND BODY CREAMS
HANDS MAY BE EXPOSED TO WATER , WATER SOAP,
WATER DETERGENT SEVERAL TIMES A DAY WHICH
RESULTS IN REMOVAL OF LIPIDS AND OTHER
SECRETIONS OF CELLS
WATER PREVENTS HANDS FROM CHAPPING BUT

EVAPORATES RAPIDLY LEAVING SKIN DRY AND
IMMERSED FOR LONGER PERIOD LEADS TO
ABNORMAL DEGREE OF HYDRATION
HENCE FORMULATIONS MEANT FOR HAND ARE

CENTERED AROUND EMMOLLIENTS LIKE
LANOLIN,STEROLS,PHOSPHOLIPIDS AND
HYDROCARBONS
IDEAL PROPERTIES
1.SHOULD SOFTEN HANDS EASILY

2.SHOLD APPLY EASILY
3.SHOULD NOT LEAVE A TACKY FILM
4.NON INTERFERENCE WITH NORMAL
PERSPIRATION OF SKIN
5.SHOULD HAVE PLEASANT SMELL
6.SHOULD HAVE AN APPEALING COLOUR.
FORMULATION OF HAND LOTIONS OFFER TWO
PROBLEMS
1. LOTION EXHIBITS GELLING PROPERTY
2. VISCOSITY OF LOTION MAY BE LOW SO THAT IT RUN OUT OF
CONTAINER
STEARATE TYPE ARE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO GELATION AND SHEAR

ACTION
FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS
1.EXCESSIVE POLYOL FATTY ACID ESTERS OR FATTY ALCOHOL
SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HAND LOTIONS
2. DISPERSED WAX PHASE BE PLASTICIZED WITH MINERAL OIL
3. SMALL AMOUNTS OF SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE BE
INCORPORATED IN FORMULATION( 0.1-0.5%)
DEVELOPMENT OF FORMULATIONS OD HAND CREAMS
WILL REQUIRE EMMOLLIENTS, VANISHING CREAM
BASE, A COMBINATION OF WAXES,OILS AND
HUMECTANTS
INGREDIENTS PERCENTAGE
CETYL ALCOHOL 2
LANOLIN 1
MINERAL OIL 2
STEARIC ACID 15
GLYCERIN 10
POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 1
WATER 100
PERFUME, PRESERVATIVE AND Q.S

COLOUR
IN SOME PREPARATIONS, DIMETHICONE IS ADDED
TO PROTECT SKIN FROM IRRITANTS
FORMULA PERCENT
GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.5
CETYL ALCOHOL 3
DIMETHICONE 1.5
LANOLIN 2
PETROLATUM 2
SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE 0.3
WATER TO MAKE 100

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Cleansing creams

Cleansing creams remove dirt from the

1.Product must be solid but must liquefy on application

RAW MATERIALS REQUIRED:

WHEN WATER IS LOST MORE RAPIDLY THAN IT IS

THOSE CREAMS WHICH RESTORE WATER(

HUMECTANTS ATTRACTS MOISTURE TO THE SKIN

FACILE ADDITION OF WATER TO SKIN DOES NOT SUFFICE TO

FILM FORMING AGENTS: ALBUMIN, GELATIN

HUMECTANTS: GLYCEROL, ETHYLENE GLYCOL, PROPYLENE

EMOLIENTS : IMPARTS SENSE OF WELL BEING TO THE SKIN BY

Many humectants also have emollient properties, while not all

E.G. UREA, PYRROLIDONE

1. UREA LACKS ANY SENSITIZING OR PHOTODYNAMIC

1. DEGRADATION WITH PROGRESSIVE

2. UREA IS TOLERATED DIFFRENTLY BY SLIGHTLY

WATER PREVENTS HANDS FROM CHAPPING BUT

HENCE FORMULATIONS MEANT FOR HAND ARE

1.SHOULD SOFTEN HANDS EASILY

STEARATE TYPE ARE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO GELATION AND SHEAR

PERFUME, PRESERVATIVE AND Q.S

GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.5

SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE 0.3

WATER TO MAKE 100

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