The colorant behaviour of cochineal and kermes insect dyes in 141 experimentally-dyed and 28 artificially-aged samples of silk and wool was investigated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to photodiode array... more
The colorant behaviour of cochineal and kermes insect dyes in 141 experimentally-dyed and 28 artificially-aged samples of silk and wool was investigated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to photodiode array detector (UHPLC-PDA), liquid chromatography electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS) and image scanning electron microscopy – energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). Partial-least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) was then used to model the acquired UHPLC-PDA data and assess the possibility of discriminating cochineal insect species, as well as their correspondent dyed and aged reference fibres. The resulting models helped to characterize a set of 117 red samples from 95 historical textiles, in which UHPLC-PDA analyses have reported the presence of cochineal and kermes insect dyes.
Analytical investigation of the experimentally-dyed and artificially-aged fibres has demonstrated that the ratio of compounds in the insects dye composition can change, depending on the dyeing conditions applied and the type of fibres used. Similarities were observed when comparing the UHPLC-MS and SEM-EDX results from the dyed and aged references with the historical samples. This was verified with PLS-DA models of the chromatographic data, facilitating the classification of the cochineal species present in the historical samples. The majority of these samples were identified to contain American cochineal, which is in agreement with historical and dye identification literature that describe the impact of this dyestuff into European and Asian dyeing practices, after the Iberian Expansion in the 16th century.
The analytical results emphasize the importance of using statistical data interpretation for the discrimination of cochineal dyes, besides qualitative and quantitative evaluation of chromatograms. Hence, the combination of UHPLC-PDA with a statistical classification method, such as PLS-DA, has been demonstrated to be an advisable approach in future investigations to assess closely related species of natural dyes in historical textile samples. This is particularly important when aiming to achieve more accurate interpretations about the history of works of art, or the application of natural dyes in old textile production.
Wool garters, woven on a rigid heddle band loom, based on finds from London, late 14th century. Information on the weaving and dyeing of the garters. This is my research - the appendices listed refer to other authors' works, and are... more
Wool garters, woven on a rigid heddle band loom, based on finds from London, late 14th century. Information on the weaving and dyeing of the garters.
This is my research - the appendices listed refer to other authors' works, and are omitted.
Prethodno priopćenje U samostanu sv. Marije u Zaostrogu čuva se iznimno vrijedan komplet liturgijskog tekstila osmanske provenijencije. Analizirajući slojevitost ovog dijela naše baštine otvara se čitav niz spona i veza s Osmanlijama koji... more
Prethodno priopćenje U samostanu sv. Marije u Zaostrogu čuva se iznimno vrijedan komplet liturgijskog tekstila osmanske provenijencije. Analizirajući slojevitost ovog dijela naše baštine otvara se čitav niz spona i veza s Osmanlijama koji su na različite načine utjecali na povijest i kulturnu baštinu Dalmacije. Datacija i kontekstualizacija tekstilnih predmeta u samostanskim zbirkama uvelike ovisi o poznavanju stilskih karakteristika samog ruha, ali i o širem kulturno-povijesnom kontekstu samostana u kojem se nalaze. U tom smislu stilski se determinira nastanak ruha, a analizom povijesnih prilika i osoba predlaže moguća atribucija i pretpostavlja način dolaska u samostan. Ključne riječi: liturgijsko ruho, franjevački samostan u Zaostrogu, osmanske svile, motiv saza, kaftan, Stjepan Tomašević, Katarina Kosača, Dubrovnik
This paper examines the physical and social function of horse blankets hand woven in Canada in the nineteenth century. Horses conveyed status to their owners, further reinforced by using these beautiful and sometimes intricately woven... more
This paper examines the physical and social function of horse blankets hand woven in Canada in the nineteenth century. Horses conveyed status to their owners, further reinforced by using these beautiful and sometimes intricately woven textiles. Understanding the manufacture and social perception of these blankets increase our understanding of the agency of nineteenth century rural people in the creation of status.
